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MIDLANDS AREA NEWS Issue 008 30Th May 2009

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MIDLANDS AREA NEWS Issue 008 30Th May 2009 MIDLANDS AREA NEWS Issue 008 30th May 2009 Brought to you by the BMC’s Midland Area Manamcho from 5935m - Mick Fowler Collection. BMC MIDLANDS AREA Introduction Previous Area Meeting Notes BMC MIDLANDS AREA Welcome to the 8th issue of the BMC’s Midlands Area News. Chair Position & Update Guide Book Presentation It has been put together by the volunteers of your local Area Meeting was opened by Iain Mckenzie who opened by Iain provided a very informative presentation. Guide ¾ com- Meeting to keep you up to date about Midlands walking and announcing that John Matthews elected as new chair last pleted. Noted that the guide will contain lots of colour pho- climbing. We are a happy bunch who are involved with crag November had had to step down due to serious ill-health. He then handed over to Martin Koscis to detail the options open tographs and bouldering problems. All in all well received by clean-ups, guidebook work, rebolting and access work. We to the Area. Two options were presented (1) to vote tonight for members and many volunteered to assist. would love to see you at our next meeting (information in pre- a new chair if a member present wished to stand or (2) vote to defer the election till the next meeting in June. vious section). We are a “doing, not talking” kind of meeting, Still looking for information on: and we are here to represent you. Whilst it was noted that Iain was happy to act as an interim chair and that Charles Gameson present at the meeting had Anchor Church caves expressed an interest to stand, it was accepted that other Bradgate Park If you would like to get involved or contribute to this members not present may be interested in taking up the role. The first option was therefore found to be not acceptable. It Carver’s Rock Newsletter email: [email protected] or come was agreed unanimously that the position be widely adver- Grace Dieu Viaduct & Craglets along to the Open Area Meetings. tised and applications be considered at the next meeting in Granitethorpe Quarry June. High Sharpley Review of Newsletter and Minutes of last meeting Morley Quarry The Next Midlands Area Meeting (4th June 2009) will have a Iain M referred to the summary of the last area meeting and The following have access problems or are no longer there! guest lecture by the one and only Mick Fowler. national council summary in the news letter. He drew mem- bers’ attention in particular to: I asked Mick to write a short note on what he intended to talk Cliffe Hill about, this was his reply... Actions from last meeting – The request to National Council Groby Industrial Estate to write to Lady Martin’s family offering condolences has been Huncote Quarry referred back to area. National Council felt that it felt more Markfield Quarry The Matterhorns of Tibet.. appropriate that the response be local. Louise Pymm suggest- ed that this be undertaken by the Access East Officer. Agreed Nunckley Quarry to ask Howard to Action. Oaks Pinnacle ‘East Tibet is the land of opportunity for those with Whitwick Rocks. exploration and mountaineering in mind. This talk Climbing becoming an Olympic Sport – Iain explained that summarises four visits to this inspiring part of the National Council has discussed this matter at a number of meeting but has yet to make any decision. He explained in If you have any issues you wish to raise at the meeting about world with a focus on both the unique culture and the detail again why the matter was being considered and the climbing, access to crags in the Midlands, or matters about mountaineering.’ need for the BMC to make a yes / no decision. He reminded how the BMC is run, what you would like to see it get involved members that at this Areas meeting in September members in and how you feel the office could support you better then Iain McKenzie, Bouldering at Forest Rock, Leicestershire. had warmed to the proposal. He ended by saying that in the absence of consensus from Areas National Council had please contact either Iain or myself through martin@thebmc. Next Area Open Meeting agreed that further information be provided and re-consulta- co.uk (0161 438 3336). ... short and to the point, but he also sent me the cover photo! tion with each Area take place. Date: 4th June 2009 I would like to take this opportunity to thank Mick for coming Completed By: Fiona Devine (Secretary) Streetsbrook Rd Venue: Old Edwardians Sports Club, to do a Lecture at the Midlands Area Meeting. Shirley, Solihull, B90 3PE Access Access East Covered in Guide Presentation. Time: 19:30hrs Access West – Report was given by Fiona Devine on behalf Agenda: of Richard Law - Area Reports • Crag clean-up exercise being planned for Nesscliffe, now - Leicestershire Guide Update expected to happen in Sept/Oct. - Open Forum • The cold weather in the winter has had the effect of creat- - Voting in of a New Chair ing a brand new cliff on Wenlock Edge in Shropshire. The locals are onto it already. Roughly 5 new routes are expected, After Meeting Entertainment: grades up to about VS, lengths up to about 15metres. • On the indoor walls front, I have heard that the new wall in Mick Fowler Lecture Newport, Shropshire is now open. www.newportrock.com is their website. No reports yet from users, but some of Richard’ Free Food in the way of Snacks, all welcome. fellow climbing club friends (Shropshire MC) are to go shortly. Kajaqiao from Lhasa - Chengdu flight. Mick Fowler Collection. Robin Richmond, New Routing at Charnwood Quarry, Leicestershire. On-Line at www.thebmc.co.uk For more information email: [email protected] BMC MIDLANDS AREA Nesting Restrictions for 2009 15th National Council Summary BMC MIDLANDS AREA 15th Meeting of the BMC National Council Meeting Date: Saturday 25 April 2009 Venue: Plas y Brenin NESTING Summary: RESTRICTIONS2009 THINKING ABOUT BOULDERING AT THE ROACHES? • The meeting was held on the morning of the BMC OR AN EVENING ON THE CLWYD LIMESTONE CRAGS? AGM and as a result was confined to a fixed 2 The BMC’s Regional Access Database (RAD) should be every climber’s first stop for up-to-date information. The RAD is a searchable database of all the crags with special access and conservation considerations, including all the agreed nesting restrictions for England & Wales. hours. The UK is internationally important for many wintering, migratory and nesting birds and for over 30 years the BMC has worked with the statutory conservation bodies, RSPB, National Park Authorities and local ornithologists to agree the least restrictive option in maintaining access to crags whilst protecting nesting birds. • BMC policy on climbing as an Olympic sport: There There is a general acceptance amongst conservation bodies and landowners that restrictions should be flexible, monitored and reviewed to ensure they reflect nesting patterns and maintain credibility with climbers and the was lengthy debate on this following a proposal RAD plays an important part in this, so why not log-on and check it out? The RAD can be accessed directly at from Rab Carrington that the BMC National Council www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ should try to agree a clear policy position over BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Regions) Guy Keating T: 0161 438 3309 E: [email protected] the summer months. It was finally agreed that an informed debate would be held Area level supported www.thebmc.co.uk BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL by explanatory articles in Summit magazine and on 177–179 Burton Road, West Didsbury, Manchester M20 2BB JON READ T: 0161 445 6111 E: [email protected] the BMC website. The BMC is the national representative body that exists to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. See our participation statement at www.thebmc.co.uk • Finance: The BMC remains in a healthy finan- cial state although the year-end forecast has been NESTING GANNET. CREDIT: CLIMBERS AND CONSERVATION WORKING TOGETHER revised down to a £42k deficit with the variance on THE SOUTH SOUTH WALES the original budget (a £14.6k surplus) being mainly Amanda McKenzie Bouldering on the RAC Boulders, Wales, after the BMC AGM. Huntsman’s Leap: restriction on both sides of entrance, includes Falcon Crag (upper), Borrowdale: signed – may be moved to cover CHALK GOWER PENINSULA Charybdis and Leap of Faith. 1 March – 1 August Lower Falcon Crag and/or the Gully area. attributable to a c.£30k reduction in income on sav- Isle of Wight There is a nesting restriction on all routes between Minchin Hole and Chapel Point: due to rock fall restriction now The Temple to Blow Out. Falcon Crag (lower), Borrowdale: unsigned – no restriction unless birds nest. Quartz Corner (just East of Bacon Hole) inclusive. The restriction is 1 February – 1 August Sun Corner, headland at the SE end of Scratchell’s Bay, includes Gowther Crag, Swindale (NE buttress only): unsigned – no restriction reviewed in May – watch out for signs onsite or contact the National Chapel Point, St Govan’s Pinnacle: 1 March – 1 August unless birds nest. Gateway to Heaven and Albatross where it passes Sun Corner. A year Trust Warden on (T: 01792 390636), for up-to-date details. ings and the welsh officer costs. round restriction applies to Highdown Cliffs (East of Sun Corner) for Chapel Cove: Permanent restriction Heron Crag, Eskdale: unsigned – no restriction unless birds nest. ‘For many years the BMC’s approach towards new ornithological and botanical reasons.
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