www.theolivepress.es the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 21 ll about the xarquia A Issue 148 November 15-28 2012 A PEAK PRACTICE: Hiker -based writer David Baird arrives at the top of the has witnessed the land of rebellion El Lucero summit and resistance turn into a true tourist paradise How the Axarquia awoke from its slumber

AKING up on the summit of El Lucero is a little like having a ringside seat at the birth of the world.As the dawn sky shifts from purple to gold, you glimpse the mountains of Africa rising Won the horizon above a silver sea. To the north, pine forests swim in the mists of province, while below stark crags thrust up from dark val- leys to catch the first rays of dawn. Here and there a column of smoke reaches up from a fara- way farmhouse or hamlet. You are high above the Axarquia, the 988-square-kilometre eastern corner of Malaga province. And El Lucero, a lime- stone buttress soaring 1,700 metres above sea-level, is as good a place as any to appreciate this region’s natural grandeur. I had spent the night shivering in the ruins of an old Civil Guard post atop the mountain in order to research a book on the region. It is one of a number of relics left from the bitter struggle that during the 1940s and early 1950s saw guerrillas vainly attempt to overthrow the Franco regime. Their leader was a ruthless, charismatic character named El Roberto and legends about him and his band still circu- late among the villages of the Axarquia. For quite a while after his rebellion was crushed, not a lot happened in the Axarquia (which comes from the Arabic sharquiyya, meaning the eastern zone). Turn to Page 22 22Axarquiathe olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 special www.theolivepress.es

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While tourists began flocking to and ’s best climate in the 1960s and 1970s, it slumbered. Poor communications meant the Eastern was largely bypassed by travellers. And that’s the good news. For this zone largely avoided the worst aberrations of the devel- opment boom. Mass tourism has not swamped it and the jetset has focussed on other parts, thank goodness. The locals of Frigiliana, one of the least-spoilt villages, seem to have heeded the words of King Juan Carlos when he visited in 1998. Highly im- pressed, he commented: “You have a very pretty pueblo. Do apartment blocks to the high mountain ranges everything to conserve it.” now line the sea- behind that not only help This is also largely the case front. Decent bring cooler breezes in sum- in villages around the region, amenities were a mer, but keep out the cold including , EXQUISITE: Scenic and (right) long time in com- north winds in winter. and Sedella (pictured right). Comares’ beautiful Mozarabic church ing, but the town One thing can legiti- When I came here first, step- has spruced itself mately claim: it stages one ping off the bus in one up, with an excel- of the coast’s biggest annual December when fewer than No longer. These days the Ax- ropeans have either bought medieval Arab travellers, as lent promenade beanos. On a Sunday in mid- a dozen foreigners were win- arquia is truly part of the 21st second homes or arrived to ‘a beautiful city with a fine and decent eating possibili- December tens of thousands tering in the town, land was century, with all the ameni- live permanently under the mosque and an abundance ties. And now Spanish visitors scoff vast quantities of migas, selling at about two pesetas ties you could expect... and sun. of fruit trees’. flock in too. a belly-filling dish served with a square metre and wine was all the pros and the cons that Along the coast apartment Although now surrounded by Just along the coast, the first torrents of Moscatel wine. 10 pesetas a litre. come with it. blocks have sprouted where modern development, the old language at Sweet, high- Great, for the visitor. But not Ancient vines and olive groves once the main crop was town is well worth visiting. bars and res- alcohol wine for the locals. A medieval life- have been uprooted to make sugar cane. Cane was king Cervantes passed this way as taurants along and raisins are style prevailed. The nearest way for urbanisations and for 1,000 years, but the last a tax collector and even men- the Torrox- In 1959, five Axarquia spe- hospital was in Malaga well villas. Hundreds of old farm- refinery on the coast closed tions Velez in his epic novel Costa seafront cialities. over an hour away up a pot- houses and village dwellings in 2006. Don Quixote. would appear locals discovered In autumn you holed road and ambulances have been renovated and Fortunately, although con- Nearby is Torre del Mar, once to be German. vast caverns with will see grapes and dentists were unknown. thousands of northern Eu- crete has scarred parts of the a huddle of poor fishermen’s Torrox insists laid out to dry coast, it hasn’t ruined it and dwellings. According to one it has the best amazing rock on paseros, inland the Axarquia is still an story, things took off when a climate in Eu- earthen beds escapists’ paradise of sleepy local builder built apartments rope, although formations facing south. villages and dramatic sierras. to house a string of Malaga its neigh- No wonder the By far the largest town is businessmen’s mistresses. bours, such as wine is often Velez-Malaga, praised by Soon after, the Germans Nerja, are inclined to argue termed ‘bottled sunshine’, Ibn Battutah, greatest of started buying and scores of the point. This all stems down which you can verify by at- tending Competa’s celebrat- ed wine festival in August. Be sure too to try the raisins, a luscious, mouth-watering A region experience. And for an idea of the work involved in produc- ing them visit the Museo de la Pasa in Almachar. of variety On the coast the biggest sin- gle reason for the Axarquia becoming an internationally- known tourism venue lies un- derground: la Cueva de Nerja. On January 12, 1959, five local boys discovered these vast caverns with amazing rock formations and traces of Paleolithic man. General Franco himself came to view this phenomenon. Today in Andalucia only the Alhambra palace in Granada draws more visitors. The rest of finally woke up to Nerja’s attractions when , a popular TV series, was filmed there. Talk about a reality show, Each of the Axarquia’s 31 towns and villages Riogordo is the place to be on Good Friday and when Chanquete (an old fish- have their own distinct charm and a history more Easter Saturday. You are likely to meet Roman erman in the series) died, eventful than you may imagine. centurions strolling down the main street and Nerja Town Hall flew its flag In , which is famed for its raisins and as Galician shepherds refreshing themselves in a at half-mast. And today an oil the birthplace of El Bizco, a blood-thirsty, one- bar. Hundreds of villagers take part in the annual painting of Antonio Ferrandiz, eyed bandit, you will find street names reflecting Passion Play. who played the part, hangs the fact that today’s mayor is a little to the left of High up in Comares you will find a fascinating there, while one of the boats Mao Tse-tung. town going back to the Phoenicians, where the from the series takes pride of Tiny has interesting street names Arabic Moors later created a key settlement, tes- place in the town. too...Pensacola, Mobile, New Orleans. They re- tament to which is the Patio de Comares in the Often you will hear more Eng- call the days when it was known as Little , Alhambra. lish than Spanish in Nerja. thanks to the Galvez family who achieved power In Colmenar, meaning bee hive, you will appro- Back in the Napoleonic Wars and wealth and aided the USA’s fight for inde- priately find the region’s honey museum and a the British bombarded Ner- pendence. charming village of cobbled steep streets. ja’s fortifications into rubble, but the locals don’t hold it www.theolivepress.es the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 23 Like something EVOCATIVE: The boat Verano Azul from the celebrated soap opera and (inset) buskers in Nerja street out of The Hobbit

BREATHTAKING: Eloise Horsfield describes how she Rural idyll and ended up on a ‘village hop’ tour of the (inset) a church Axarquia after getting lost tower in Colmenar against them. Brits run many local businesses E arrived after nightfall, Surrounded by towering peaks such as de Miguel Rey, one of just 10 beekeep- and are the mainstay of having left Granada late Rompealbaldas and Maroma – Mala- ers left in the village. tourism. in the afternoon and wo- ga’s highest mountain at 2,068m – the “And while there is more modern tech- Without doubt the most ven through the Andalucia village boasts fabulous views, stretch- nology today, the process is basically spectacular scenery Wcountryside in our hire car. ing all the way to the sea, some 20 the same and you can still get stung.” along the Costa del glimps- Aiming for Colmenar, we had some- clicks south. He added: “The honey here is more ex- Sol lies beyond Nerja. From how ended up a little too far south. We then set off towards Colmenar, of pensive than the cheap stuff you get in the town’s Balcon de Europa es of mountain goats, wild boar, foxes and other wildlife But none of us were complaining since course stopping to admire Lake Vi- the supermarket but it is much better you gaze at mountains which the roads were pleasantly empty and nuela, a peaceful oasis in a landscape – and you can taste that.” tumble sheer into the azure amid these tortuous ranges. Maroma, the highest peak the views nothing short of delightful. of gullies and rolling hills, rather like a After a picnic lunch – only in Andalucia Mediterranean and the area “Um, how about Canillas de Aceitu- scene out of The Hobbit. is this possible in early November – we is now protected as a marine in Malaga province at 2,068 metres, is often wreathed in no?” asked Mario as we reached yet The rather sleepy village of Colmenar is set off to visit one last Axarquia village, sanctuary, great for snorkel- another crossroads, dusk by now well named after the Spanish word for hive, Riogordo. ling. cloud, in winter sheathed in snow. upon us. colmena, and – unsurprisingly – has This historic, little-visited town, sitting But, for me, the best part of And what a charming choice it turned a bee-keeping tradition dating back to in a dip in the landscape, is known for the Axarquia is to be found In the past neveros (snow- men) would pack the snow in out to be, this stunning spot, sitting the 18th century. its rich mineral water – which was prob- inland. Here lies the Spain high up in the foothills of the Sierra There is even a honey museum, which ably what attracted Neolithic settlers to where my wife and I, after esparto baskets in summer and bring it by mule to the Tejeda. aims to explain the importance of bee- it. working around the world, Within an hour we were supping a keeping and revive its origins. After a brief clamber along its river finally discovered the ideal coast to use for refrigeration. For Malaguenos, hiking to welcome cana at Bar Sojahi, whose “Families have passed on the knowl- bank, we grabbed a quick coffee before place to unpack our bags and friendly barman had helped sort us edge from generation to generation,” jumping back in the car, full of pleasant take up residence. Maroma’s summit is some- thing of a pilgrimage. Quite a out with our own apartment for the explained museum director Fernando memories of the Axarquia. As we’d dug our way out of night, for just €45. dust traps on the tracks of number trek up at the sum- mer solstice to enjoy the We later dined at the As- the Outback, as we’d strug- ador la Maroma, which gled through the crowded dawn (best to be fit and well- equipped). See Summit to get offered massive por- streets of Hong Kong, we’d tions, great wine and a dreamed of an easy-going excited about on page??? Just to confirm that you have chatty waiter. place in the sun where we By the time we left we could unwind. made the right choice in com- ing to the Axarquía, a plaque had discussed the local at the top records: “This team’s football loss that There is no sight mountain is the centre of the day and learnt all about more attractive than world./This mountain like any his love of snowboarding mountain is a sacred place./ in the nearby Sierra Ne- the cubist dwellings That’s why you are here...” vada. “I go there every weekend of the Axarquia David Baird is the author of in winter but I always love bathed in golden light several books on the Axar- coming back to Canillas, quía, including East of Mala- my real home,” he said. Like many other expatriates, we ga — Essential Guide, Sunny It was only the next found the ideal spot. What mat- Side Up — The 21st century morning however that we ter if the toilet was only a hole hits a Spanish village and Be- discovered Canillas’ true in the ground, the roof beams tween Two Fires — Guerrilla glory, as we took break- were near to collapse and the war in the Spanish sierras fast in its tiny square house could only be reached (Maroma Press). More infor- while soaking up in the up 40 or so cobbled steps. mation at: http://maroma- autumn sunshine. It was autumn and there is no press.wordpress.com/ sight more attractive than the cubist dwellings of the Axarquia bathed in that golden light. The one we finally found in Frigiliana looked down on a mosaic of carefully-tended fields, irrigated by channels first built by the Moors. To the rear rose the pre- cipitous slopes of the Sierra Almijara. It is up here in the heady heights of the Tejeda and Almijara sierras, forming part of a 40,000-hectare nature park, that one can really see the best of the Axarquia. Once mule trains, charcoal- burners, smugglers and wood-cutters trod the paths through the mountains. Now they are largely deserted, except for hikers, bikers and bird-watchers. The last wolf disappeared a century ago, but you can catch 24 the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 Axarquia specialwww.theolivepress.es Goat jams, politics and all RAFFIC jams around my village of Competa UK government advisor Ray Rowden finally are not usually a prob- moved to Competa to open a restaurant lem. But you do need to when all of lookT out for goats, who cause VILLAGE the land to the regular blockages in the CHARM: coast was ag- lanes around the area. Competa’s ricultural and They mostly come first thing 16th century no motorway in the morning or at dusk church existed. when the goatherds are While things bringing their flocks down have certainly from the high pastures above changed, on the village. arriving as a The locals know how to han- resident I was dle them, but the reaction struck by the from tourists is often hilari- way in which ous, with some looking utterly rural Spain terrified, while others jump still generally out of their cars to take hasty ticks along at photographs and, in turn, quite a gentle block the traffic flow from be- pace. hind. In one local My next door neighbour is bar, for exam- a goatherd, as it happens, ple, the farm- the third in a generation ers roll up on and whose father still does their donkeys his share of the work at the or horses, grand old age of 91. tie them up It is an admirable pastime, outside, get and the real joy is receiving plastered, fresh goats milk in exchange I moved to Competa from and finally allow their steeds for allowing their goats to Sussex four years ago, hav- to take them home, often well graze the olive groves sur- ing first visited the white vil- after nightfall. rounding our home. lage on holiday 30 years ago, Competa is a lovely spot, Axarquia special www.theolivepress.esAxarquia special the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 25 Goat jams, politics and all clinging precariously to the mountains of the Almijara range, dominated by Maro- ma, one of the region’s high- est peaks. Once a key battle ground in the final struggle between the Moors and Christians over 600 years ago, it has a very JON CLARKE Picture by historic feel. The church, built in 1512, dominates the main plaza Dead interesting with an elegant tower added SAID to have been designed so the dead would not turn two centuries later. their backs on each other, it is the only round cemetery The village centre has in Spain. changed little over the cen- Now locals in near Competa, hope that their turies, with winding narrow unusual dead centre, built in 1840, is to be promoted streets and beautifully kept better as a tourist attraction. old houses, many with dis- A visitor centre is now open and a local historian is urg- tinct Moorish influenced -ar ing the authorities to designate it a BIC, or site of spe- chitecture. Roaming through cific cultural interest. the village streets is a great way to spend a day. have real power in their indi- was re-elected last year with The surrounding vidual communities. an increased majority. It also has little to do with countryside is one’s party allegiances, with Competa’s annual ‘blue’ popular with expats, many people voting for a can- panto is Aladdin this year. It is CONGESTION: Local goat herd blocks the road near Competa didate from a party very dif- running from November 29 to who speak 32 ferent from their beliefs. Our December 1 at the Museum The Competa Amateur Per- mas, which is tinged with processions, but highlight of mayor Jose Luis Torres is in different languages formance Organisation put blue humour. the year is The Night of the the PP party, but despite be- on regular events throughout The village is also home to Wine on August 15. ing a card-carrying member The village and surrounding the year, including ballet and many painters and sculptors, As a political advisor for the of the Labour Party I didn’t countryside has a population dance gala performances, who open up their studios for Labour Party in the UK, I have hesitate to vote for him. of around 4000, with the vil- using local artists and some Competa Art Walkabout every been fascinated by the local He was previously the parish lage itself remaining quintes- of the best dancers from May. politics. priest, who was persuaded sentially Spanish, while the London’s West End, variety The village knows how to What is also so different here to give up the priesthood in surrounding countryside is shows and even an annual mark saints days and holi- is that elections really matter order to help the village that extremely popular with ex- adult pantomime at Christ- days, with magical candlelit as the locally-elected mayors had been wracked with cor- pats, who speak a total of 32 ruption for decades. different languages. He has done loads for village, It is a cosmopolitan place and giving it back its pride, by re- becoming increasingly inter- Where to stay and eat pairing its charming cobbled esting for arts and music. streets and sprucing up its We have a local recording stu- many charming corners. A good bet is El Pilon, a charming and retreats, head up on a mountain track five dio, a number of local flamen- kms until you come to Casa de la Mina, Even better, the first thing he co stars living in the town and usually buzzing restaurant run by Ray and did on assuming office was to Tom, with a great varied menu and deli- which was recently renovated and is a Competa buzzes with cultural great place to walk from, with an excel- take substantial pay cut. activities of all kinds. cious tapas. He felt that the economic cri- The Gaudi-style Alberdini Hotel also has lent restaurant to boot. A range of bed The Alberdini hotel boasts and breakfast choices are also available, sis was hitting ordinary fami- regular flamenco nights, - us a superb restaurant, with a distinct slant lies and that he should share towards local fare. It also offers accommo- including the wonderful Dutch-run Casa ing authentic local artists, los Dos, sitting in an amazing spot down the burden. while my own restaurant El Pi- dation in quirky bungalows, with a terrace He has since cleaned up af- with amazing views. Meanwhile, if you are a country lane between the village and the lon offers monthly ballet and sea. Simply breathtaking. fairs in the town hall and opera nights on a big screen looking for one of Andalucia’s finest rural made it among Spain’s three during winter. ‘best run’, so no surprise he 26 the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 Axarquia specialwww.theolivepress.es

Jon Clarke discovers that the Axarquia has a long and rich history of winemaking

HE Axarquia was producing top qual- ity wines way before Rioja and Ribero del DueroT got into the mix. Indeed, in 1933 the region True became the first in Spain to have its own DO – or de- nominacion de origin. But the area can also claim to have one of the longest traditions of winemaking in vintageSpain, with vines first being planted by the Phoeni- moved to the area. cians up to 3,000 years ago. Evidence of their success can still be They were later heralded by the Roman found, for example, at Venta Galway, high poet Columella, and back in 1502 the in the Montes de Malaga hills, named after Catholic Monarchs were so keen on the an Irish merchant who settled there then. fabulous sweet wines that they took the But, as was the case in many European first known measure to protect the region- regions, the industry was destroyed by al wine from imported products. the phylloxera bug that arrived in the late A century later Malaga wine producers 19th century. It wiped out the vast major- formed a guild, the forerunner of today’s ity of vineyards and the amount of land ‘consejos reguladores’ (control boards). under vine dropped from 100,000 hec- It came about just as the wines started to tares at its peak to just 6,000 hectares become fashionable abroad, particularly today; many for raisins or eating grapes. in the UK from the 17th century. So the crucial work being undertaken by a At the time, there were said to be around number of companies today to make the 14,000 wine presses in Malaga and – sweet wines fashionable again is vital as along with Jerez - many British merchants a dynamo for the region.

One vineyard Bodegas Bentomiz is beating the crisis with international success, writes Rose Jones Inspired by the vine ARD work, luck and have had rave reviews from a little Axarquia wine journalists and som- magic have allowed meliers and are now selling They also produce a red from a young, family-run their wines in no less than 20 a blend of grapes: Petit Ver- Hwinery near Sayalonga to Michelin-starred restaurants dot, Tempranillo and Rome, overcome the recession and around Europe. a little known vine indigenous enjoy adventurous interna- The Axarquia’s unique terroir to the Axarquia. They named tional success. such as the vineyards steep their aromatic wines Ariya- The position of Bodegas Ben- slopes and the closeness of nas, after a nearby Moorish tomiz is breathtakingly beau- the sea - all provide an ideal hamlet, which comes from tiful, with the magnificent microclimate for the grapes. the Arabic word for aromatic. Sierra Tejeda dominating the The vines – some over 100 The pair got their wine known skyline to the north and south years old - are grown in hol- by attending European wine looking down to the coast. lows, to collect water, and are fairs and celebrated restau- Here, Clara Verheij and Andre cut back to bushes, so that rants, getting an 85% success Both have rescued the aban- the leaves protect the matur- rate. “If the sommelier tried doned vineyard above which ing grapes from that scorch- our wine, the restaurant pur- they built their home. ing summer sun. chased it!” says Clara. Recognising the enormous They make naturally sweet potential of the local Mosca- wines in temperature-con- For a tour call 952115939 or tel de Alejandria vines, they trolled stainless steel tanks. visit www.bodegasbentomiz.com Axarquia special Axarquiawww.theolivepress.es the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 27 In the footsteps of the bandits HIS 63-km journey will The Route of Oil and Mountains is take your breathe away as you drive higher and a wonderful driving tour around the higher into the soaring north west of the Axarquia, writes mountainsT following in the footsteps of the many ban- Sally Harrison of Axarquia Properties doleros (bandits) who once terrified the region. In , for example, you can see the cell where El Tem- pranillo (the early one) was once held after threatening diners at the famous Venta de Alfarnate, built at the end of the 17th century. He had previously made din- ers eat their wooden spoons and watched on as they cracked their teeth! The government had actu- ally set up the Guardia Civil in 1844 to try to stop this bandit activity and some of those ar- rested actually became Guar- dia themselves! The villages we visit have all managed to keep their rich and varied legacies and their HAUNT: Venta where Tempranillo (top) preyed on diners festivities, when not religious, 1761 but the town was rebuilt ro in his prison cell! are based on every day life after an earthquake in 1884. We start our downward jour- or celebrating their Moorish Verdial olive oil is made in the ney home via , past. Finally, we must make village and sold far and wide. which is small with streets a mention of the many olive La Día del Aceite Verdial in late wide enough to accommodate trees along this route, which March is a festival to celebrate herds of goats and little else. go to produce some of the its natural, fruity flavour. Visit the 16th century church best olive oil in the world. Moving on, there are sulphur- of Santo Cristo de Cabrilla, its ous Moorish baths at Banos square tower built in the Mude- THE ROUTE de Vilo, 2kms north of the vil- jar style. Bandits sheltered in lage and then an oil museum the many caves surround- We start in La Vinuela, over- in Mondrón, a good place to ing the area and it is easy looking its famous reservoir, stop before the climb up to the to imagine them out there. which was built in 1981. It is most northerly Shrugging off a rather sweet village and the village in the these ghosts lake itself is popular for non- Axarquía, Al- Stop for lunch at of the past we motorised water sports, such farnate. drive on to our as fishing and swimming. Turning right the Venta de final two vil- From La Vinuela to Alcaucin, onto the MA- lages, but first which has an annual fiesta 4102 the Alfarnate, complete a strong dark at Halloween to celebrate the drive here is with bandolero in cafe solo at chestnut and the aroma of spectacular the bar in Pul- them roasting is delicious! It is with the rug- his prison cell! garin to bring a pretty town, sitting high up in ged moun- us back to our the hills with quite a few sights tains towering senses! worth visiting, in particular its above. By contrast the land The route continues to Riogor- lovely water fountain, where is rolling and cultivated, with do situated in a lush valley by kids often play. farms dotted about and hors- the river Cueva. Here we can From here we head to es grazing contentedly. visit the Ethnographic Muse- where the views are hard to Alfarnate is a charming spot, um or the 16th century Virgen beat. The name dates from divided in two by the river de Gracia church. Palancar If you visit in May you may be with its three offered a local dish prepared picturesque from land snails cooked in bridges. Make stock and served with olives sure to visit as part of the Day of the Snail. the 16th cen- We finish our tour up towards tury church Colmenar where we can visit of Santa Ana the Honey Museum and sa- with its Mude- vour their cured meats and jar minaret. other traditional products, Make sure to particularly during the Fiesta stop for lunch del Mosto y la Chacina in De- at the Venta cember. de Alfarnate, complete with Contact Sally at sally@axar- said bandole- quiaproperties.com 28 the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 28 Axarquiawww.theolivepress.es special Summit to get excited about Walking guru Guy Hunter-Watts on the Axarquia’s most exhilarating excursion: an ascent of the mighty Maroma

Getting to the beginning Ascent of La Maroma from BUMBER of the walk CROP: a bunch Arriving in Canillas from the west of bananas in head towards the village centre. TRUE five star walk, this is the best of the three main Reaching a playground for chil- routes leading to the summit of la Maroma (2068m). dren park on the left then con- Departing from the lovely village of Canillas de Acei- tinue along Avenida de Andalucia tuno, there are glorious sea views as well as vistas of to lower end of the Plaza de la Athe magnificent Loma de Capellanía and promontory of Proa del Constitucion. Barco (The Ship’s Prow). From the summit, the vast panoramic vistas are hard to bet- ter and are particulary memorable when the Sierra Nevada is The walk cloaked in its winter mantle of snow. Go bananas in The walk begins in Plaza de la The great thing about the Canillas ascent is that once you’re Constitucion. Facing the town hall back down at Los Charcones you follow a different path back exit at its top, left hand corner to the village, descending parallel to the gorge of Los Alman- the Axarquia then cut right past a statue fol- chares: a route once used to bring ice down from the summit. lowing a sign for La Maroma. An- Jon Clarke talks to local businessman gling left then right continue up a narrow street, ignoring a sign off Peter Langdale about his 27-year-old right for La Rabita. farming business which employs over Head straight on at the next junc- 100 staff and provides much of the UK tion passing left of an ornamen- tal olive. Angling left the road supermarkets’ coriander and parsley descends to a junction then arcs left. Here turn right following a EW things can be as joyous as picking your own bananas, sign for Campo de Futbol. although as Peter Langdale, boss of Garden Centre La Palma explains, it is not going to make you a living. Climbing a steep road, La Cuesta “We get the odd few from our back garden, but not de los Picachos, you pass the vil- The Nitty Gritty Fenough to make them commercial,” he says. “Mangoes are a lage cementery then a football Distance: 21 kms better bet and are doing quite nicely these days, while avocados pitch where the track angles Time Required: 7 hrs are also doing well, but they have their ups and downs.” right. Rating: Difficult He, of course, should know, having worked for 27 years as a fruit After 300m cut left at a marker Total Height gain: 1625m and vegetable producer in the Axarquia. post up a narrow path. Reaching Map(s): ING 1:50000 Zafarraya 1040 (18-43) Working with some of the UK’s biggest supermarkets, including the track once again by a bird Water: spring at 4 hrs 50 mins Waitrose, Tesco and Morrisons, he is currently one of Spain’s hide bear left. biggest exporters of parsley and coriander, producing over 700 After following the track in a tonnes a year. northwesterly direction look for a Thanks to having the ‘best climate in Europe’, tropical fruit grows a forestry building after 600m you up the right side of the Barranco in abundance in the Axarquia. cairn to its right where you should reach a sign post pointing left for de las Tejas. Soon the path be- Keep your eyes peeled, if you’ll excuse the pun, and you will see again cut a corner, rejoining the La Maroma. (1 hr) gins to descend. all sorts of weird and wonderful fruits brimming from trees. track at a concreted section 25m before reaching the bed of “We identified that this was one of the best area’s in Europe to where you reach the Mirador de Cut left through the pines down the barranco cut right at a cairn grow vegetables,” explains Langdale, who sold up in England Castillejo. a path which shortly crosses two and marker post. After running and arrived in Spain with his wife and three-year-old daughter Follow the track to the right then (dry) stream beds then climbs directly away from the stream the in the mid 1980s. as the concrete ends cut left at a past an old calera (a lime pit). path arcs left, clearer now, as it “Spain was signing up to the Common Market and everyone said cairn up a path which shortly an- Continuing up the footpath you climbs parallel to the streambed. that the south of Spain was to become the new California. We gles back to the track which levels pass a second calera. Zigzagging steeply up you reach saw this as a Holy Grail.” as it runs on to the east. Passing The pines thin out as you climb a junction with a clearer path Having looked up and down the whole coastline, from north of Alicante to Huelva they settled on the small village of Trapiche, near Velez Malaga. “It was already a big strawberry area and I had a good gut feel- NDISPUTABLY the spiritual heart of the Axar- ing,” explains Peter, who also owns seed and vegetable business quia, Comares straddles a hilly outcrop and Semilleros La Palma, in Velez Malaga. has heart-stopping views. STEP BACK He initially started growing spring onions, raddish and parsley Perched on two peaks of a hill, with parts of for the UK market, but soon branched out into other herbs and Iits old Moorish fortifications still in evidence, Co- vegetables. mares has been an important town since being He is now the largest producer in the local cooperative Trops that inhabited by both the Phoenicians and Romans. IN TIME has an incredible 1400 members and a new €17m packing plant Later it became the home of the 9th century re- just opened, near Velez Malaga. The event has been remembered up to the pre- bel leader Omar ibn Hafsun, when 12,000 ‘souls’ sent day with each of the families being remem- lived in the town. bered by the ringing of the bells 30 times at the Comares is certainly not short of references, town’s lovely church Nuestra Senora de la Encar- having both a patio and tower named after it in nacion each Sunday. Spain’s most important monument, the Alham- It is one of Andalu- bra, as well as a key Middle Ages sketch to be cia’s most evoca- found in Toledo. tive churches, From here, tourists are spoilt with a series of built over the origi- guided walks, some of them heading off around nal mosque, with the town by donkey. a 15th century The first of these is a clever guided tour by ter- Mozarabic wood- racotta footsteps, which are tiled into the town’s en ceiling de- cobbled streets. signed by the old This takes you up to the castle, via the claustro- Moorish crafts- phobic Calle del Pardon, where 30 Arabic fami- men. (See picture SAFE GROUND: Axarquia is ideal for growing lies were spared their lives after publicly convert- on page 2 of the tropical fruit, as well as coriander picked here ing to Catholicism. supplement). Axarquia special www.theolivepress.es the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 29 Summit to get excited about as you come up to the Los Char- Walking guru Guy Hunter-Watts on the Axarquia’s most cones pass. In front of you is a exhilarating excursion: an ascent of the mighty Maroma sign post Sendero SLA-142. (1 hr 30 mins) Here cut left. Running north the Ascent of La Maroma from path crosses a tributary of the Ar- Canillas de Aceituno royo de las Tejas where you pass another sign for SLA-142. TRUE five star walk, this is the best of the three main The path loops steeply up past a routes leading to the summit of la Maroma (2068m). rocky promontory as it runs west Departing from the lovely village of Canillas de Acei- before angling back to the right. tuno, there are glorious sea views as well as vistas of Zigzagging up to the north the Athe magnificent Loma de Capellanía and promontory of Proa del path again arcs to the west and Barco (The Ship’s Prow). traverses a swathe of scree. From the summit, the vast panoramic vistas are hard to bet- Passing green arrows on a rock ter and are particulary memorable when the Sierra Nevada is you reach the promontory known cloaked in its winter mantle of snow. as the Proa del Barco and a mark- The great thing about the Canillas ascent is that once you’re er post with a cairn at its base. (2 back down at Los Charcones you follow a different path back hrs 10 mins) to the village, descending parallel to the gorge of Los Alman- chares: a route once used to bring ice down from the summit. Here angle right. The path be- comes less distinct but cairns guide you across a vast field of GREAT VIEW: A marker at the very top rock. The Barranco de la Cueva de Don Leaving the summit make your Coastal Pedro is now down to your left. way back down to the point you Walks in Reaching a jagged outcrop the passed at 1hr 30mins, the Los Andalucía is path angles left. Charcones pass. (4 hrs 10 mins) available at 30m before it reaches the tail end most bookshops in Spain as of the barranco angle right, away Here, instead of angling right well as from amazon.co.uk or from the path you’ve been fol- down the path you followed ear- via the author’s own website: lowing, to pick up another which lier, cut left through a breach in www.guyhunterwatts.com The Nitty Gritty leads to the summit, initially on a the rock. due easterly course. Running south along the ridge Distance: 21 kms Angling back down to a (dry) stre- Time Required: 7 hrs the path angles left then zig- ambed continue along its course, zags down and passes a (dry) Rating: Difficult passing just right of a fenced Total Height gain: 1625m spring. enclosure then angle right.Care Running more level the path cuts Map(s): ING 1:50000 Zafarraya 1040 (18-43) should be taken: the path now Water: spring at 4 hrs 50 mins through a stand of young pines runs close to the steep southern before angling right to the top of face of the Loma de Capellania. the Ravita ridge, marked on the It’s a good idea to occasionally I.G.N. map as Collado de la Ravi- up the right side of the Barranco look behind you: it will make com- ta. Here angling right you pass an de las Tejas. Soon the path be- ing back down easier! SLA-142 marker post. gins to descend. After angling left then crossing a Continuing south for 300m you 25m before reaching the bed of rise you’ll see a nipple-like cairn reach a junction. Take the right the barranco cut right at a cairn at the left side of the summit branch. and marker post. After running ridge. The path adopts a south-westerly directly away from the stream the Head up to the cairn from where, course, descending towards Ca- path arcs left, clearer now, as it passing well to the left of a high nillas across an area more de- climbs parallel to the streambed. metal pole, continue up to the nuded of vegetation, high above Zigzagging steeply up you reach tower-like trig point at the summit the ravine of the Arroyo de Alman- a junction with a clearer path (2068m). (2 hrs 50 mins) chares. Just before the path angles hard right you reach the cave of La Ravita and a signboard. Angling right a few metres before the cave the path passes a calera STEP BACK then reaches a spring, El Fuente de la Ravita. (4 hrs 50 mins) IN TIME The path now angles slightly left, along a ridge, before adopting a The event has been remembered up to the pre- course towards Canillas. sent day with each of the families being remem- Occasionally looping down to a bered by the ringing of the bells 30 times at the lower level the path eventually town’s lovely church Nuestra Senora de la Encar- drops down past a signboard Sen- nacion each Sunday. dero Casa de la Nieve to a track. It is one of Andalu- Cut right for 50m then reaching cia’s most evoca- a pylon cut left between two ram- tive churches, shackle farm buildings to reach built over the origi- the first village houses. nal mosque, with Just before reaching a sign Calle a 15th century Sierrecilla cut right down a zig- Mozarabic wood- STUNNING: zagging path. Passing a sign for en ceiling de- Nuestra Senora La Rabita (sic) angle left then cut signed by the old right down Calle Calleja. Moorish crafts- de la Encarnacion church (above) and Pass beneath an arch then at the men. (See picture next junction cut left to return to on page 2 of the a view over Comares towards Mt Maroma the start point of the walk. (5 hrs supplement). 35 mins) 30 the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 Axarquia specialwww.theolivepress.es Life on the lake

T has been a crossing Thankfully, there are also a point for travellers criss- A crossing point for travellers for number of good places to get crossing the Axarquia for centuries, Puente Don Manuel is now a coffee and lunch, such as centuries. Morenos, Meson Sara and ISo, it is entirely appropriate the main inland hub of the Axarquia, Friends, and nearby, over the that Puente Don Manuel is historic Puente bridge, you now the number one com- writes Jon Clarke should look for popular Atila’s, mercial hive for inland Axar- which is fast getting a reputa- quia. houses and The Town Frier There is the excellent Ru- tion for its fabulous food. Here, at the so called ‘cruz de fish and chip shop. mours hairdresser, estate Make sure to also take a ride Periana’ - overlooking beauti- This fast-growing settlement, agent Villa Solutions and the up to the village of Alcaucin, ful Vinuela lake - you will find which is administered by larg- famous Arkwrights food shop, which has a rich historical a bustling commercial centre er Alcaucin, is where thou- run by Linda and Geoff, which legacy and is full of narrow, with plenty of businesses and sands of local expats stock has been the glue of the com- winding streets and white- restaurants, including curry up on all their essentials. munity for years (see below). washed houses. How Linda and Geoff Rowe turned Arkwrights into more than just a corner shop Guts, determination and a lot of hard work HINGS were so tight when they plains mother-of-two Linda, originally arrived in Spain from the UK from Kent (pictured left). in 2000, they had to borrow “We had lost everything we had in the on their credit cards just to get UK so Spain was a fresh start for us. theirT business going. “We arrived here with 600 boxes full Starting out selling everything from of collectables and started to build up antiques to sewing machines at mar- quite a following at the markets.” kets up and down the Costa del Sol, Things clearly went from strength to Linda and Geoff Rowe never knew if strength with Arkwrights now one of they would make enough money to the Axarquia’s main British businesses; make ends meet. busy from dawn to dusk, and only clos- “We went to some markets where we ing on two days of the year. knew that if we didn’t sell we wouldn’t It took a year of solid marketing though, have had the petrol to get home,” ex- before the customers started to arrive, but the couple knew instinc- tively what their clients want- ed and were put in the hard work to find the products. “I would sit up until the early hours looking for suppliers, and ultimately by listening to our clients we have always stocked what they wanted,” said the former bank worker who does the buying, while her husband runs the shop floor. The ultimate compliment came when on an aeroplane Linda overheard someone recommending their shop. “I had a little chuckle to myself and Geoff was ecstatic,” she explains, adding that there is no substitute for hard work and a good reliable team. “Our shop has been built on hard work, guts and determi- nation. We get up, work, go home and sleep, seven days a week. It is as simple as that.” www.theolivepress.es the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 31

HISTORIC: Puente bridge and a view from Hotel Vinuela while (inset) Meson Life on the lake Sara and The Town Frier

Alcaucin derives its name The lake of Vinuela, just from the Arabic ‘Al Cautin’, a stone’s throw away is a meaning the ‘arches’ a pos- great place for a walk and sible reference to the town’s a picnic, or if you are af- aqueduct. ter a bit of luxury a stay Way before the Moors - and at the region’s top hotel Romans before them - it is Vinuela. known that prehistoric man As well as boasting won- lived here, after the remains derful grounds with ten- of a Neanderthal man were nis courts and two huge found in 1983 in a cave near swimming pools, there to El Boquete de Zafarraya. is a spa and an excel- Certainly though, it is scen- lent restaurant, which ery that is the biggest draw is one of the best in around here. the whole region. 32 the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 www.theolivepress.es Axarquiawww.theolivepress.es the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 33

Tim Whiteley of Villa Solutions+ (right) has become quite a TV property star selling at both ends of the spectrum From snail farms to celebrity villas T has been an exciting decade for Tim Whiteley, of VillaSolutions+, in Pu- ente don Manuel. IAside from becoming well known for offering a snail farm to clients on a hit TV pro- gramme in 2004, he is now known again for negotiating the sale of a property owned by pop star Mikey Graham of Boyzone this year. It began with TV show A Place in Spain, in 2004, when he tried to find Welsh couple Lee and Cheryl the perfect home to buy in the Axarquia. “But I straight away realised that satisfying their limited budget and ideas was going They admitted to to be a difficult task,” ex- Whiteley they were plains the estate agent, 34, not cash buyers and who has recently opened a still had to sell their new office in the heart of the home back in the UK commercial centre. to finance the -pur That said, the publicity was CELEB SALE: Whiteley chase. fantastically good for the (top) sold Boyzone Mikey But the blow was to be short company, which ended up Graham’s 4-bed villa lived for just two weeks later featuring in 10 episodes of Whiteley saved the day by the show. finding another buyer for the “Clients still ask me about three properties for the show, house, owned, it can be re- the snail farm and how it is eventually narrowing down vealed by the Olive Press, by doing,” explains the father-of- their search on the amazing Boyzone star Mikey Graham. one, from Gloucestershire. Casa Cantares, near Canillas “While we never managed to de Aceituna. “It was a bit of a sell it to Lee and Cheryl the Owned by an ‘Irish singer’, experience put the agency on the home came with the fur- hit for Mikey, but a the map.” niture, the 4x4 car and even So it was perhaps no surprise a stable and paddock. “It was great deal for the that in April this year White- also at an unbeatable price,” buyers” ley was approached again by adds Tim. presenter Jasmine Harman to However, despite falling in A young family from Man- help find a suitable property for love with the property and chester, they picked up the a client in a new show A Place agreeing to buy it on the amazing property for the bar- in the Sun - Home or Away. show, ‘the second the cam- gain price of just € 215,000, The buyers, a wealthy cou- era turned off’, they changed minus the 4x4. ple from Cornwall, looked at their minds. “It was a bit of a hit for Mikey, but a great deal for the buy- ers,” explains Whiteley, who moved to Spain a decade ago. “They managed to swap a three bedroom townhouse in Nerja for an incredible four- bed villa in Canillas. They did very well.” And to complete the picture, the first couple have now also returned to the Axarquia to buy a ‘much more appropriate property’, reveals Whiteley. “And guess what, they even ended up buying Mikey Gra- ham’s 4x4, a Nissan Patrol.” “It is incredible the way it has all ended with everyone hap- py,” concludes Whiteley. “And I guess we are very happy the way that VillaSolutions+ has progressed.” A Place in the Sun - Home and Away is now being aired on Channel4 34 the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 Axarquia specialwww.theolivepress.es

Where to eat A ROYAL SEAL ITH some of the On the outskirts you best ingredients might also try the in Spain there highly rated Alberdini, is no excuse to where Inez and En- Wserve up bad food in the Ax- manuel have created arquia. And thankfully there a wonderful retreat, is a nice range of restaurants both warm in winter doing just that. and breathtaking One of the most stylish is with its views and ter- Fountainhead, high in the race in summer. hills, near Riogordo. A cultured pair, the An evocative place, chef Hel- WARM WELCOME: At Alberdini´s menu is thought- en is both talented and eru- and (below) Insolito ful and most of dite and well deserving of her the vegetables are locally success. sourced. If you are looking for a grand- reminiscent of the Days of In Puente don Manuel mean- er affair the fabulous dining the Raj, and it is no surprise while, you will find the Town terrace at Hotel Vinuela, is that the King is said to have Fryer serving up the best fish eaten here. and chips for miles and Bar Aside from its modern touch- Atila, where Kim Whitworth, is es, the terrace is, without a a real whiz in the kitchen. doubt, one of the nicest plac- You will also find the excellent es to eat in summer. Friends, which is a buzzing As a town, Competa has spot with its popular terrace, come on leaps and bounds and nearby Morenos, which in the culinary stakes over re- is an upmarket spot now with cent years. its own pool table. El Pilon, in particular, is a Longest-running is the excel- charming and buzzing spot lent Meson Sara, where Anto- run by talented couple Ray nio Martin and his team have and Tom, with a great varied been serving the local expat menu and delicious tapas. community for nine years. Without a doubt, the village’s There is a menu del dia for main social hive, you will of- just € 10 and an incredible ten find live music and even 30 different tapas. ballet and opera nights. One of the really exciting new Axarquia special www.theolivepress.es the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 35

Where to stay Sweet dreams ROM rural, rustic re- is the added advantage of its treats to grand beach- excellent restaurant. side hotels, the Axar- In Nerja, you are spoilt for RATED: Team at Atila quia has got the lot. choice, but Toboso Apart FBut few places beat the amaz- Hotel, which couldn’t be in venues meanwhile, is that of ing Hotel Vinuela, a modern, a better location in the heart Ivan and Nenno’s Insolito in but tasteful, four-star affair, of town by the Balcon de Eu- Benalgabon. with comfortable rooms, and ropa, takes some beating. Former bosses of Comares’ superb views across a lake The rooms are fantastic in Molino de la Abuelo, they and into the mountains. size and you are right next have switched to this charm- Come and hole up for a few to the excellent Cochrane’s ing little village, often seen as days, using it as the perfect Irish restaurant and bar, the gateway to the Axarquia. base to explore the nearby which is good for a local Set on the charming main area and enjoy the excellent meal and has the best ter- square, they still have fla- restaurant and facilities. race in Nerja. menco most weekends and Meanwhile, if you are looking are also planning other dance for one of Andalucia’s finest Stylish nights. rural retreats, head up to Casa In Comares keep your eyes de la Mina, near Competa. A totally different option is peeled for Restaurante el Recently renovated, this is the Hotel Avalon, which sits in Molino or Restaurante Ata- perfect place to walk from, a great location with amaz- laya, while in Periana Cantue- with an excellent restaurant ing views up into the nearby so comes highly-rated. to boot. Run by a friendly mountains. The rooms are In Torre del Mar many people architect, you will wake up comfortable and the restau- swear by Safari Bar on the to the sound of birdsong and rant has a good name. front, but Vintash up by the see nothing but mountains Last, but not least, if rural former tram stop is also a fab- and views to the sea. chic is your thing, then Foun- ulous spot. Stylish and geared Nearer to Competa there is tainhead really takes some towards the more discerning the wonderful Dutch-run B&B beating. This stylish place palate, it is a pleasant place to Casa los Dos, sitting in an near Riogordo, offers beauti- while away a long lunch. amazing spot down a country ful rooms, all with their own In Nerja tapas bar Pata Negra lane between the village and splash pools and private ter- and Carebeo 34 come highly the sea. races. With a great restau- recommended, as do Au Petit Also near Competa is Hotel rant to boot it is easy to see Paris, Calabaza and El Olivo. Alberdini, where many rooms why you might want to hole Down on Burriana beach try come in Gaudi-style casitas up here for a weekend and Belgium-run Bruxelles. with spectacular views. There go nowhere else. 36 the olive press - November 15 - 28, 2012 www.theolivepress.es

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AS2723 Vélez-Málaga AS2737 Arenas 269,950€ AS2734 Alhaurín el Grande AS2724 La Dehesa de 234,000€ 160m2 5 beds, 154m2 3 bed, 3 bath villa 120,000€ Large town house Triana 295,950€ Beautiful, 2 baths, front and back with Studio apartment on top newly converted into two 2 rustic, 4 bed, 4 bath country garden, garage, roof terrace, fl oor, pool, sea, mountain and bedroom apartments with house with pool, jacuzzi, communal pool and gardens lake views garden and roof terrace gardens, mountain & sea views www.axarquiaproperties.com