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Home , Grey Glacier, Perito Moreno Glacier, Viedma Glacier, Viedma Lake

International Travel

42 LAKELIFE MAGAZINE • WINTER 2017 HOT SPOT

Patagonia offers tourists a cool alternative to the rainforests and tropical beaches of

Written and Photographs by KATHERINE LACKSEN

Visitors can explore the 3-mile long front face of Perito Moreno from different levels of boardwalks and viewing platforms.

LAKELIFE MAGAZINE • WINTER 2017 43 HE FAINT PINK OF A PROMISED SUNRISE highlights the bottom of blue clouds seen from my window seat on yet another early morning bus ride in . My sister and two friends are fast asleep in theT seats in front of me. Snowcapped mountain peaks tower in the distance. We round another turn in the road and a massive series of rock faces with jagged razor peaks comes into view. Our four months spent backpacking in South America – and particularly in – have been like this – a new breathtaking landscape around every corner. My visions of tropical jungles, lush rainforests and remote beaches were replaced by soaring granite mountains, grasslands extending to the horizon – and most surprisingly – . The most accessible and visited in South America is the in Argentina. It is known worldwide The icy features of Glacier contrast with the for its visual show and loud roaring display of calving, when mountainous terrain in the Southern Patagonia Ice Field. blocks of ice detach and fall into the water below. Located 80 kilometers outside the town of , it is one of the glaciers that makes up Los Glaciares National Park. Unlike many glaciers, Perito Moreno continues to grow at a rate of up to more than 6 feet per day. In El Calafate, we book a tour from one of the many agencies offering all types of options for exploring the glacier. The complex network of steel boardwalks and viewing platforms built around the front face offer many levels and perspectives for observing the massive 3-mile long front face of the glacier that rises almost 250 feet above Lake Argentino. During our tour, we hike along the blue waters of Lake Argentino. It takes all of our strength to push against the wind that is so strong it pushes icebergs that have fallen from Perito Moreno down the lake. After leisurely exploring the walking platforms and stopping to watch and to listen to ice blocks fall and crash into the water, we return via bus to El Calafate where Katherine Lacksen uses a boardwalk and platforms to observe the Perito Moreno Glacier and Lake Argentino. we make it a priority to try the Calafate berry. The berry can be consumed in jam, gelato or chocolate form. We go for the gelato. Local legend has it that, once eaten, the Calafate berry guarantees you will return to Patagonia. Glaciers are scattered throughout South America, but the Northern and Southern Patagonian Ice Fields are glacier hot spots. The Northern Patagonia Ice Field, the smaller of the two, is contained entirely within the Laguna San Rafael National Park on the Pacific coast in southern . The Southern Patagonia Ice Field lines the Mountains range for more than 200 miles along the border of Argentina and Chile. It is the world’s largest contiguous ice field outside of the north and south poles,

Katherine Lacksen’s friend Jill Sazera leads the group down A view of feeding into a natural ramp while exploring Viedma Glacier. Viedma Lake near El Chalten, Argentina.

44 LAKELIFE MAGAZINE • WINTER 2017 and covers an area about the size of Connecticut. Just north of El Calafate, a 50-kilometer section of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field remains as the final non- concluded boundary between Argentina and Chile. Though both countries’ governments made an agreement in August 1991, the Argentine parliament never ratified the agreement. To this day the boundary issue remains unresolved. This does little, however, to deter climbers, trekkers and nature lovers eager to explore this beautiful region that is home to Mount , part of the iconic logo for Patagonia outdoor clothing and gear. The rapidly growing tourism industry in southern Argentina is transforming the once-sleepy Chile town of El Chalten, which has been declared Argentina’s trekking capital. We take an approximately 20-minute bus ride from El Chalten to Viedma Lake. The stunning blue water is captivating, but the main attraction is Viedma Glacier – the largest glacier in Argentina. With a surface of 377 square miles, all of New York City could easily fit within the glacier’s footprint – with room to spare. Veidma Glacier is about 1.2 miles wide where it enters into the western end of Viedma Lake, and its front wall rises roughly 130 feet above the water. During our visit to El Chalten, we book a tour for a glacier trek on Viedma Glacier. Since El Chalten is less commercial than El Calafate, the bustling hub for the Perito Moreno Glacier, a trek on Viedma Glacier is cheaper, less crowded and includes a free boat ride. During the hike, we explore some incredible features of the glacier by using crampons pulled over our boots Katherine Lacksen explores the inside of an ice cave in to traverse the icy landscape. The tour ends with a surprise from Viedma Glacier with her sister Elizabeth. our guide – a toast to adventure with a splash of Baileys Irish cream poured over fresh glacial ice he made with an ice pick. One of the smallest glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field – yet equally as impressive – is . This glacier is located on the west side of the popular Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. The compression of pure snow forms brilliant blue ice visible in this glacier and many others throughout the region. On the eighth day of our ten-night backpacking trek through the park, we climb the John Gardner Pass. Other hikers warned us that we might have to turn back because of treacherous conditions on this section of the circuit, but we are fortunate to have good weather. As we approach the top of the mountain The boat that shuttled Katherine Lacksen and other tourists across pass, the most spectacular panoramic view of Grey Glacier Viedma Lake to and from Viedma Glacier. stretches across the horizon in front of us. The wind picks up and we can barely hear each other talk as we take in a vista of snow and ice stretching out across the horizon

A panoramic view of At its highest point Perito Moreno Glacier extends Grey Glacier in Chile. almost 250 feet above Lake Argentino.

LAKELIFE MAGAZINE • WINTER 2017 45 Sisters Katherine and Elizabeth Lacksen use crampons on their boots and help each other while ice climbing on Viedma Glacier.

for almost 11 miles. The trail leading down the opposite side was extremely steep and wore on our already fatigued legs, but the stunning turquoise water of Lago Grey and the icebergs floating on the surface kept our minds occupied as we hiked the final few miles into our campsite. For those less enthusiastic about hiking, you can also explore Grey Glacier on shorter guided hikes, glacier ice treks, as well as kayak or boat excursions on Lago Grey. Since a young age, I have been drawn to open and wild places. Patagonia, with its diversity of landscapes, unpredictable weather and unlimited outdoor opportunities, had all of the essential elements for an adventure. Spending time exploring all this region has to offer was a priority for us since we all love hiking and backpacking. During the 55 days spent in Patagonia, we slept in a tent for eighteen nights, took twelve bus rides, crossed the Chile-Argentina border six times, sailed for four days throughout the Chilean fjords on a cargo ship and explored three of the gorgeous, breathtaking glaciers. Regardless of which glacier you visit, tourism opportunities are abundant in Patagonia. In fact, glaciers are more accessible here than anywhere else in the world. Whether you prefer cruising in a boat on the turquoise waters alongside the towering ice walls, strolling along the viewing platforms or testing your skills on top of the ice with crampons during a guided trek, there are multiple ways to enjoy and explore the beauty and wonder of these icy landscapes. L

46 LAKELIFE MAGAZINE • WINTER 2017