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Tayvallich 2006 Πa Story of Contrast!

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Tayvallich 2006 Œ a Story of Contrast! Tayvallich 2006 œ A story of contrast! Any opportunity for a trip up to the west coast of Scotland is not to be rejected lightly so I graciously accepted John Mellor‘s invite to join his family and a few other Wayfarer types in a weeks sailing based at Tayvallich. Of course (as I sold it to my ever patient wife) it‘s not really worth driving all that way just for a week, so I planned to stay for a second week. There was though a sequel to this conversation in the form of a text message from my wife sent just as I was going to work after returning from Scotland, —Just eating breakfast in glorious sunshine, sparkling Mediterranean Sea and balmy breezes“. I add this last just in case anyone reading my account starts to feel sorry for her! To set the scene: Tayvallich is a small village on the edge of an almost enclosed wooded bay near the top of Loch Sween a few miles south of Crinan. Loch Sween is on the Scottish mainland opposite Jura. Carrick House, which was to be our base for a week, is in the middle of the bay and about halfway between the slipway and the pub œ not bad I reckon. As soon as I arrived I could sense the laid back atmosphere of the place. The village was several miles down a single track road and was the sort of place you could leave things lying around and know they would still be there when you came back. The view from Carrick House I had caught up with the Mellors on the A1 some miles north of Leeds, having left home in Norfolk at 5.00am. I have to say that I wasn‘t looking forward to seven or eight hours of driving on my own and it was good to continue the journey in company. Scotch Corner is my usual stop if driving north followed by Annandale Services on the A74. We had planned to meet up at the latter Services before continuing north and by then it was good to have a rest. Our route through Glasgow meant sticking to the motorways before crossing the Erskine Bridge west of the City and heading north past Loch Lomond. Kate Mellor was kindly letting me know that I was about to hit traffic queues just south of Glasgow. Having negotiated the queues and the Erskine Bridge over the Clyde, it was a few miles south of Lomond that I spotted the unmistakable shape of a Wayfarer transom in a garage. At the wheel of his motor home was Rob Wagstaffe with Treacle Too towing behind. Rob and Caroline made up the third member of the Tayvallich group. It was rather pleasant to stop in a lay-by and lunch in the comfort of their van by the Loch. From Lomond our route took us west on the A83 round the top of Loch Long and Loch Fyne and then all the way south along the Fyne shore to Lochgilphead which had the nearest supermarket to Tayvallich, so just a few more supplies were piled aboard. The road from Lochgilphead follows the Crinan Canal for much of its length œ it did seem rather odd to see masts of yachts amongst the trees, but the scenery was, as always stunning. Arrived at last! Sunday was to be a recovery day œ most welcome as my journey started at 5.00am and finished at 4.15pm. Cedric Clarke and Chris Codling were due to arrive some time late afternoon on Sunday, so an easy sail around the upper Loch Sween was planned by John. Rigging the boats on the first day on the Sailing Club pontoon Our ”gentle sail‘ started with one reef in the main whilst on the pontoons, well we needed to relax, and quickly resulted in a second reef afloat as some wicked gusts had us planing fast out across the Loch. Never mind, soon be time for lunch. And what a spot for our first al fresco meal œ the Fairy Isles just north of Tayvallich provide an excellent sheltered natural harbour. Here the skipper of Water Witch began to show the first signs of fretting about rocks and paintwork œ a continuing theme of the fortnight! My crew, young Kate Mellor, being an ex-wooden boat sailor clearly understood the importance of paintwork protection though œ I think. The Fairy Isles œ an idyllic lunch spot. Late on Sunday afternoon Cedric and Chris arrived and a flurry of boat rigging ensued. John‘s idea from previous visits was to keep the boats on the trolleys below the high water mark on the edge of the bay more or less below the house. This did give me some cause for concern, but in fact proved an excellent arrangement and almost allowed for boats to be sailed straight onto their respective trolleys at the end of a days sailing. The morning routine was for the early risers (usually Kate and I) to collect boats from the trolleys at high tide and motor them down to the pontoon ready for the day. This worked very smoothly the first day, but led to a small ”incident‘ the second time. Motoring gently up to the pontoon in Water Witch with Sea Sprite in tow and Kate at the helm I handed Kate the tow line, cut the engine and stepped smartly onto the pontoon. It would have been a good idea to have taken a mooring line with me because the boats drifted out of reach. Kate‘s face was a picture! However she restarted the engine and motored back round to me, all the while with Sea Sprite‘s tow line and my tiller in her hands. I even recall that at one stage the tow line had to be held in her teeth. A neat piece of work. And so the real business began. Our mission was to explore Loch Sween and the coast and islands nearby. In furtherance of this objective the four boats were set off south down the Loch. The wind a trifle chilly was from the north and moderate to fresh, but certainly not uncomfortable. Kate decided that a lie down on the floorboards was on the cards and I decided to join her (purely in the interests of keeping the crew amused of course). The resulting picture of the event was entitled œ Mary Celeste! John‘s suggestion was that we head out of the Loch to the Cormac Isles, a pair of uninhabited islands about a mile and a half southwest of the entrance to Sween. The Mary Celeste The larger of the Isles has a fine natural harbour that provided excellent shelter even though its entrance faces north, a factor that was partly to blame for our failure to notice the wind increasing. Day Two The islands get their name from Saint Cormac who is reputed to have been buried there and the ruins of St Cormac‘s Chapel remain. The ”harbour‘ sports a useful, but rough stone quay to which four Wayfarers managed to tie up so that their crews could lie about in comfort and eat lunch. An exploration party visited the Chapel and Celtic cross on the highest point of the island. Deceptive calm in the harbour on Eilean Mor It was here, with a magnificent view back across the water to Sween that we first realised that the wind had increased considerably, enough to make standing upright awkward. Also the tide had well and truly turned north kicking up a fearsome looking tide rip between us and the entrance to the Loch. Further exploration north to the tip of the island revealed that there was little or no safe passage close inshore that would have allowed the fleet to sail south of Corr Eilean and then east towards Kilmory Bay thus avoiding the rip, before venturing back north. The barest of facilities being put to good use Council of war œ Corr Eilean can just be seen centre top The result of our explorations and discussions was that we had no choice other than to brave the tide rip. Preparations were made. Everything was tied into the boats and second reefs were taken in. With the wind as strong as it was I was extremely glad of my roller reefing genoa. I was able to set a very small foresail, just enough to help the boat through the eye of the wind when tacking. Kate and I were first off and tacked smartly north out of the harbour before bearing away on to a close reach towards Sween. Very shortly we hit the edge of the breaking water and the wild ride took us into the thick of it. I erred slightly in allowing the boat to be set too far north, lured by a patch of calmer water that proved to be shallow. Forced to bear away onto a beam reach I was keen to avoid surfing and losing control. Waves dumped water over the transom and both sides of the boat as well as the foredeck. I made encouraging remarks like, ”Oh this is fun isn‘t‘, ”Not too bad after all‘. Had I a free hand I think I would have been wiping cold sweat from my forehead! Breaking out of the far side of the rip gave us the chance to look back œ no other boats in sight, and I was sure others had set off immediately after us. It turned out that others had problems tacking out of the harbour, necessitating a lee shore shove off.
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