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Ashutosh Sharma Some half a million nomads in and are losing the battle to maintain their way of life amid conflict, scarce development opportunities and a changing climate Every year, as winter gives way to spring in the Jammu region, the nomads of the Bakarwal and Gujjar tribes set out on their seasonal migration, a tradi- tion they have practised for centuries. Basharat Ali, a Bakarwal, remembers how one evening, two decades ago when he was 15, as the caravan of nomads was trekking through the lofty Peer Panjal mountains on its way to the to escape the scorch- ing summer, an unseasonal snowstorm hit their camp. Their livestock, includ- ing hundreds of sheep and horses, perished in the hostile weather conditions. Tribal nomads traditionally move with their livestock to the upper slopes of the northern Himalayas during the summer, and return to the plains in winter after covering hundreds of miles on foot along serpentine tracks. According to official statistics, there are about 2.5 million Gujjar and Bakar- wal in Jammu and Kashmir state. Of these, around 500,000 are nomads who rear buffalo, sheep, goats and horses for their survival. At his home in Mansar in district, nearly 65 km from the winter capital of Jammu and Kashmir, Ali described the long-term impact of the freak snowstorm: "We spent the whole night under a tree. All we had to protect our- selves were hand-made woollen blankets. About 50 families gave up season- al migration thereafter." Other disasters have also affected his relatives in the past decade, he said. In 2010, three died in a landslide near Kukarnag in Kash- mir, while eight were killed at in an earthquake. And yet more have lost their livestock, forcing them to quit seasonal migration and work as migrant labourers or on construction sites, he added. Ali is afraid he may be ordered to evacuate his present home, which stands on government land, any day. "The government has a rehabilitation policy for surrendered militants but not for us," he lamented. His 28-year-old neighbour, Mohammad Adris, nodded in agreement. "My livestock died of an unknown disease which broke out following unseasonal rains, six years ago. Then I worked as an ajhardi (livestock assistant) before A Gujar family relaxing after a tiresome journey. settling here," said Adris who lives in a tarpaulin tent with his wife and two chil- dren. Tribal nomads who tend to the livestock of others are called ajhardi - in Dr Javed Rahi, the foundation's national secretary, said that 37 percent of livestock," Rahi added. lieu of their services, they receive food, money or shelter for their families. nomadic tribal people have abandoned their traditional lifestyle in the last 25 Choudhary Bashir Ahmed Naaz, vice-chairman of the State Advisory Board IDENTITY CRISIS years. "I fear that tribal migration will become history in the next few decades," for Development of Gujjars and Bakarwals, said his body had recommended Rahi warned. the government should formulate and implement an insurance policy for The local media report on nomadic tribes getting stranded in the northern "While hundreds have died in armed conflict, nomads are also suffering nomads' livestock losses. Himalayas by bad weather every year. But the combination of worsening cli- because of natural hazards like landslides, forest fires, unseasonal rain, snow- Other measures are already underway, he said. Of 290 mobile schools for mate stresses, border conflict with Pakistan - which also claims the territory fall, hailstorms, sudden rises and falls in temperature and man-animal con- the migratory population, many have been turned into stationary facilities, as of Jammu and Kashmir - and the Kashmir insurgency against the Indian gov- flict. Unfortunately, the government does not have any disaster management around 30 percent of nomads have stopped moving. But a further 100 mobile ernment has pushed the tribes into an identity crisis, with adverse impacts on policy for them," Rahi added. Jammu and Kashmir has three distinct geo- schools have also been proposed to meet education needs. And the govern- their economy and culture. "Six members of my family were shot dead by mil- graphical regions with different climates: Jammu is sub-tropical, Kashmir tem- itants while we were on our way to Kashmir, a couple of years ago. We stopped ment is giving scholarships to tribal students and providing hostel facilities for perate, and Ladakh cold and arid. A 2010 study by Indian researchers and them, the official said. As the security situation has improved thanks to a decline migrating after that tragedy," said Mohammad Aslam, who lives in Surankote government officials pointed to a rise in minimum and maximum temperatures, block in district. in the intensity of the insurgency and a 10-year ceasefire along the border as well as the number of rainy days by 2030 in the Himalayan region, which with Pakistan, the government has opened veterinary units and health cen- Mohammad Sagir, a Gujjar and former resident of Manjakote in dis- encompasses Jammu and Kashmir. trict, described how, in his childhood, his family's livestock would get strand- tres along all traditional migration routes, Naaz added. Annual rainfall is likely to increase by 5 to 13 percent by 2030 compared ed in the landmine fields along the with Pakistan and be killed Meanwhile the trappings of modern life are putting other nomads like by the explosive devices. to 1970, with some areas of Jammu & Kashmir showing a rise of up to 50 per- Choudhary Fazal off their annual trek. "Due to the growing number of vehi- "During migration, we would suffer immensely due to untimely rain and cent, the report said. cles on the roads, it's getting increasingly difficult to move with huge herds of snowfall," he added. "Eventually, my family abandoned the pastoral-nomadic GOVERNMENT SUPPORT sheep and cattle," he explained. life and my father worked very hard to ensure our education." Sagir has just Nomads have the lowest literacy rate in the state, at just 5 to 7 percent In addition, forest officials won't let nomads inside forest areas as grazing passed the Kashmir Administrative Services exam to qualify for an elite job compared with 28 percent among settled members of their tribes. "Only 2 to land is fast depleting, and local residents "also have an aversion to us", Fazal as a state bureaucrat. 3 percent of people belonging to nomadic tribes are in government jobs. Oth- said. "Given the sudden changes in weather conditions in the middle of migra- But he is an exception. In general, nomads suffer from a lack of education, ers mostly do menial or unskilled work for survival," Rahi said. tion, it seems even nature wants us to discontinue nomadic life," he said. "If health and communication facilities. Many animal species have also suffered with the changing times, accord- the government helps us, we would also settle permanently." Nomadic tribes in the northern states of and Himachal Pardesh ing to the foundation's study. Some traditional breeds of sheep, goats and Whatever the state does, it is clear that the complex web of factors thwart- face similar problems, according to a study by the Tribal Research and Cul- horses have gone extinct, and others - including the Bakarwali (shepherd) dog ing the nomads' once simple way of life will make it tough for them to find an tural Foundation. Nomads who usually live in isolation in high-altitude mead- - are on the verge of doing so, it said. "No genetic study has ever been con- alternative model that is both sustainable and suits their particular needs. ows have struggled to settle on the plains, it found. ducted for the preservation of the primitive traditional species of (nomads') (The writer is an independent journalist and media fellow with National Foundation for ) Restoration of ruined Sun Surinder Kaul tourism in their tourist brochures, books and other tourist literature or in some major advertisement from time to time, On entering the premises of Martand two and have to make tourist aware about this Sun temple. It kilometers up the plateau from Mattan, , Kash- should not be set aside or ignored by the State governing mir one gets aghast on seeing such a huge temple struc- body. It is an essential part of Kashmir's heritage and every ture, and most impressive in the very first look . Though, Kashmiri should be proud of such marvellous architectur- the destroyed and crumbled structure of Martand temple al achievements of Kashmiris in past. Kashmir does not remained neglected , unprotected for five centuries to the have natural beauty only to attract World tourism, but its vagaries of nature and is subject to all types of geograph- rich cultural heritage, literature, philosophy, poetry, music, ical phenomenon during this long period yet it still exhibits dramas , art and craft for which Kashmir had reached to visible impression of that grandeur and splendour which it zenith once upon a time, could be absorbing for the tourist. had in past, before it was burnt and dismantled by Sikhan- Moreover, possibilities of new job avenues for the local der Butshekan in fourteenth century, while spreading people will brighten by introducing this chapter in Kashmir in Kashmir. tourism. The Martand temple is most important and famous for ASI Kashmir office is only giving cosmetic touch by lay- many reasons. Its architectural ideals and designs of 8th ing garden and flowers in the front of the ruined temple century were in no way less to other world renowned with barbed wire fencing fixed on six feet angle iron polls. ancient designs of Rome and Greek civilizations. The A regular gardener is employed to look after the lawn and stone images and carvings of Godly figures are elaborate- to plant flowers, shrubs. Beyond that ASI does not do any ly chiselled and richly designed. The site of the temple and major work of repairs, restoration, replacing of stones and its court yard surrounded by volumes of colonnaded in revamping of the standing walls or roofing to safeguard it Greek fashion shows that this structure was mix of many from snow, rains and scorching sun. ancient building designs and art. The temple of Sun com- ASI can erect a protective roof over the structure with- mands superb view over the valley since it is situated on out disturbing the original columns of the main temple a lofty Karewa .Its background of snow capped mountain structure. Many stone images and their body contours are peaks and blue sky makes it most attractive place for distinct but the dust over them and growth of moss on most divinely grace. It reflects the ancient art and architecure of the stones has eclipsed the stone images. ASI can and its development in Kashmir under most prosperous SUN TEMPLE :A legacy in ruins remove the moss and clean the dust with hard brush to ruler and warrior King Lalitta Ditya Mukhtapadi, builder of On the contrary, World heritage sites in South Ameri- India is the organization with its offices in all states of India make it more visible to naked eye. Some type of chemical this Sun temple at Martand in Kashmir. Of the three Sun cleaning of the stone images on the walls to make it more can, Latin American, Egypt, Middl East, South East Asian are duty bound to repair and revamp the structures of all clear to the naked eye and green moss gathered on the in India , Martand is the oldest, where as the sec- countries and other parts of World have been preserved, such heritage sites in the country. ASI has been undertak- ond one, , a colossal structure stands side pillars could be done with the help of some experts protected and restored because of their outstanding uni- ing reconstruction or repairs or polishing or revamping of within the country or from outside. in majestic dignity on the sea shore on a vast stretch of versal informative value. Every year thousands of tourists Mughal places, palaces, forts, shrines and other sites of sandy soil built in 13th century by King Narasimhadeva There is some inscription in Sharda script on a stone throng these heritage sites in the season to know or to Muslim rulers in India. In past five years according to CAG in the corner, which too has gone blurred due to utter neg- in Orissa and the third one is at Modhera ,Gujrat built study the ancient culture and civilizations of that time ligence. It could have been translated in common language in1026 by King Bhimdev. Oldest Sun temple, known as report Rs 15.77 crores expenditure was incurred as per around these historical remains. Many travellers are the Comprehensive Conservation Management Plan for to enable tourist to understand what is written in Sharda. kashyapapur was in Multan, Pakistan, built by Samba son delighted to find so many sites with cultural, architectural Atleast ASI could have put on a slab the meaning of the of Krishna in 515 BC, which was totally destroyed in 10th the maintenance and repairs of 17th century monuments designs, artistic values and information treasure about the Sharda inscription in the English language. There are no century. of India. past civilization of the particular region. Encouraging , ASI Kashmir office does not appear to be doing jus- comprehensive details written on some fixed slab / board From tourist point of view Martand Sun temple can be for the information of the tourists visiting the site. tourism to the ancient heritage sites have also generated tices to their earmarked charter of protecting and preserv- the spot worth visiting to understand and to acknowledge Kashmir tourism also does not give it that tourist impor- sustainable employment chances to the unemployed ing the Heritage sites in Kashmir. Heritage site in the val- the past glory of Kashmir history. Because of its historical tance. It does not have wide road and open space for park- youth of those region and had added substantial income ley are left at the mercy of God. J&K Govt. also seems background, building structural craftsmanship and sculp- ing of tourist vehicles. Entry point is circled by cluster of to the state exchequer through foreign remittances least interested for the upkeep of these age old heritage tural figures on stone slabs of deities, Martand ruins can the local houses, thereby putting the temple site in back- Therefore, it is most significant landmark in the history sites which give deep insight about the past of Kashmir attract both domestic and foreign tourists in most of the ground. and its culture. Although these monumental sites could be season in the year. But the State Tourism has to frame long of Kashmir which needs to be well maintained, protected Why not make an appeal to the Chairman ASI, asking tourist attraction for both domestic, foreigners and study term plan for drawing focus on the ancient ruins of Kash- with expert opinions for restoring the damaged structure him for revamping all ancient heritage sites in Kashmir to groups from any part of the world. For that the State Govt. mir valley, just as in other parts of India like Nalanda, and taken care of by all means to preserve striking ancient this extent that its universal values are preserved and its has to put sites like Martand temple in the perspective of Konarak, Red Fort Agra or all over World. Hindu architecture in the valley. Archaeological Survey Of further decay due to climatic changes is stopped.