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THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY About the Author THE ABBEYS OF MELROSE, DRYBURGH, KELSO Paul Boobyer’s zest for walking and curiosity of foreign cultures led him to undertake long-distance walks in Britain, Nepal, New Zealand, Canada AND JEDBURGH IN THE SCOTTISH BORDERS and Chile. He also spent time in Mongolia, where he stayed with nomadic herders and discovered how painful a traditional wooden saddle can be to by Paul Boobyer the uninitiated. Returning to Scotland, Paul built and maintained moun- tain footpaths in the Scottish Highlands. Later, he managed footpaths while working as a Countryside Access Officer at Scottish Borders Council and led guided walks during the annual Borders Walking Festival. Paul now lives in Andalucía in Spain and often walks in the Sierra Morena hills near his home, enjoying the abundant birdlife and trying to spot European lynx. JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Paul Boobyer 2019 First edition 2019 CONTENTS ISBN: 978 1 85284 980 1 Overview profile ............................................... 7 Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd. Map key ...................................................... 7 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Overview map ................................................. 8 All photographs © Lorna Anness unless stated otherwise. Route summary table ............................................ 9 INTRODUCTION ............................................. 11 © Crown copyright 2019 OS PU100012932 The Borders Abbeys Way ........................................ 12 History of the Borders abbeys ..................................... 13 The Borders reivers ............................................. 19 Town mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Agriculture and country estates in the Borders ........................ 22 © Crown copyright 2019 OS PU100012932. NASA relief data Geology and nature ............................................ 23 courtesy of ESRI Getting to and from the Borders Abbeys Way ......................... 24 Where to stay ................................................. 27 Maps and public access ......................................... 27 For Lorna, with whom, by great fortune, I travel life’s pathway. When to go and what to take ..................................... 28 Using this guide ............................................... 30 THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY ..................................... 31 Stage 1 Tweedbank to Newtown St Boswells via Melrose ............. 32 Updates to this Guide Stage 2 Newtown St Boswells to Kelso ........................... 41 Stage 3 Kelso to Jedburgh ..................................... 51 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guide- Stage 4 Jedburgh to Hawick .................................... 61 books as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edi- Stage 5 Hawick to Selkirk ..................................... 70 tion. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone Stage 6 Selkirk to Tweedbank .................................. 78 website (www.cicerone.co.uk/980/updates), so please check before plan- ning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such Appendix A Facilities available on each Stage of the Borders Abbeys Way .. 83 things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way Appendix B Accommodation ................................... 84 can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any Appendix C Public transport information .......................... 86 discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by Appendix D Useful contacts .................................... 91 email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Appendix E Further reading .................................... 92 Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Front cover: Melrose Abbey (Stage 1) THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY OVERVIEW PROFILE AND MAP KEY Overview profile TweedbankNewtown Kelso Jedburgh Hawick Selkirk Tweedbank m St Boswells 400 300 200 100 0 Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 Stage 4 Stage 5 Stage 6 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110km Features on the overview map Route symbols on OS map extracts (for OS legend see printed OS maps) national boundary route railway alternative route urban area start point National Park finish point eg NORTHUMBERLAND alternative start point National Scenic Area eg Eildon and Leaderfoot alternative finish point route direction Relief (in metres) 600m Features on the town maps 400m 200m abbey 75m 0m tourist information centre GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/980/GPX. Kelso Abbey (Stage 2) 6 7 112 A6105 8 T HE A703 Lauder B A68 A697 Greenlaw A7 ORDERS R Tweed A Peebles A6 Coldstream BB 089 EYS Eildon & A72 W Galashiels Leaderfoot A698 A 1 Y R Tweed Melrose Abbey Innerleithen 3 Upper Dryburgh Abbey Kelso Tweeddale A7 Melrose Kelso Abbey A708 Newtown 2 Selkirk St Boswells A699 6 A68 Jedburgh Jedburgh SCOTLAND Abbey R Teviot 4 Dundee A698 Glasgow Edinburgh 5 Hawick N A6088 Carlisle Newcastle- upon-Tyne ENGLAND 0 10 ENGLAND km A7 0 5 miles NORTHUMBERLAND A68 SCOTLAND ROUTE SUMMARY TABLE Stage Start Finish Distance Ascent Time Page 1 Tweedbank Railway Station Langlands Place, Newtown 4.8 miles 160m 2hr 32 NT 523 348 St Boswells NT 576 318 (7.7km) 1 (alt) Tweedbank Railway Station Dryburgh Abbey Hotel NT 590 318 6.1 miles 155m 2hr 20min 32 NT 523 348 (9.7km) 1 (alt)* Tweedbank Railway Station Clint Lodge (Clintmains) 8 miles 185m 3hr 32 NT 523 348 NT 604 327 (12.8km) 1 (alt)* Tweedbank Railway Station Main Street, St Boswells NT 593 309 5.7 miles 198m 2hr 15min 32 NT 523 348 (9.2km) 2 Langlands Place, Newtown The Square, Kelso NT 727 339 15 miles 302m 5hr 30min 41 St Boswells NT 576 318 (24.2km) 3 The Square, Kelso NT 727 339 Abbey Place, Jedburgh NT 650 205 13.5 miles 268m 5hr 51 (21.7km) 4 Abbey Place, Jedburgh NT 650 205 Teviotdale Leisure Centre, Hawick 13.1 miles 547m 5hr 15min 61 R NT 505 153 (21.1km) OU T E 5 Teviotdale Leisure Centre, Hawick Market Place, Selkirk, NT 469 284 12.6 miles 583m 5hr 15min 70 SUMM BORDERS SCOTTISH NT 505 153 (20.3km) A 6 Market Place, Selkirk, NT 469 284 Near Tweedbank Railway Station 8.9 miles 336m 3hr 35min 78 RY NT 529 347 (14.4km) tab LE 9 *St Boswells is 0.9 miles (1.5km) off the Borders Abbeys Way and Clint Lodge is 600 metres off the Borders Abbeys Way  THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY INTRODUCTION Black Hill – an ancient volcano just north of Newtown St Boswells (Stage 1) The Borders Abbeys Way links four and detailed bus service information of Britain’s grandest ruined medieval to assist planning stages of the route abbeys in the enchanting landscape of as stand-alone day walks. the central Scottish Borders. The route The abbeys and other historical is a well waymarked, 68-mile (109km) sites encountered along the route tell circuit and is one of Scotland’s Great the tale of a series of conflicts between Trails. The variety of terrain and views the kingdoms of England and Scotland along the Way will delight even the that took place between the mid 12th most seasoned walkers. and early 17th centuries; a time when This guidebook provides a com- the Borders region was a dangerous prehensive description of the route, and lawless frontier. The repeated van- which passes through the towns of dalism and eventual destruction of the Melrose, Kelso, Jedburgh, Hawick and abbeys, the construction of fortified Selkirk and the villages of Denholm tower houses and the marauding mili- and Newton St Boswells. It also pro- tias known as reivers, were a product vides information on a variety of of this turbulent socio-political milieu. sites of historical and cultural interest A walk on the Borders Abbeys Way (including the abbeys), accommoda- will connect you with this fascinating The path follows a branch of the former Waverley Line near Jedburgh (Stage 3) tion available in each town en route, period of history; indeed, some of the 10 11 THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY HISTORY OF THE BORDERS ABBEYS waY paths on the Way are the very same of Edinburgh. By bus it is just over OTHER LONG-DISTANCE WALKS CONNECTING WITH routes that monks and abbey staff an hour from Berwick-upon-Tweed, THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY used to travel between the Borders an hour and a half from Carlisle, and abbeys, and no doubt were also used three hours from Newcastle. Frequent • Southern Upland Way connects with a portion of Stage 1 by the notorious reivers. local buses connect each town along • St Cuthbert’s Way connects with portions of Stages 2 and 3 the Way. • Cross Borders Drove Road connects at Hawick (Stage 4 end/Stage 5 start) The circuit is described in a clock- THE BORDERS ABBEYS WAY wise direction. Most people complete The Way comprises paths alongside the route in six days: the Tweed and Teviot rivers, for- • Tweedbank to Newtown St Alternative endings to Stage 1 are Historic Environment Scotland (HES). est tracks, historic drove roads and Boswells via Melrose 4.8 miles Dryburgh Abbey Hotel, which would An Explorer Pass provides access to disused railway lines, and traverses (7.7km) extend Stage 1 by 1.3 miles (2km), Melrose, Dryburgh and Jedburgh farmland and open hills. Most of • Newtown St Boswells to Kelso via and a B&B at Clintmains, which abbeys, as well as to the impressive the route is off-road, although there Dryburgh 15 miles (24.2km) would extend Stage 1 by 3.2 miles Smailholm Tower, a fortified tower are some stretches walking on quiet, • Kelso to Jedburgh 13.5 miles (5km). Stage 2 would thus be respec- house built by a local reiving fam- minor roads. The gradients are mostly (21.7km) tively reduced to 13.7 miles (21.9km), ily; and the sinister, semi-ruined gentle, and the altitude is never more • Jedburgh to Hawick 13.1 miles or 11.8 miles (18.9km).
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