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The Trail the South Plains in the Remote Reaches of the Llano Estacado

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The Trail the South Plains in the Remote Reaches of the Llano Estacado Oklahoma and Texas THE ComancheTRAIL Oklahoma and Texas TOURS A single dust plume trails behind us like an earthbound jet “They called them- stream. Narrow leaving the rear tire, it eventually fills our selves Numunu, or mirrors as I glance back at Susan, riding pillion on our BMW ‘The People.’ Their R 1200 GS Adventure. We’ve covered hundreds of miles of dirt presence is among us here in this vast emptiness, seeking the spirits of the Lords of as we follow the trail the South Plains in the remote reaches of the Llano Estacado. of the Comanche.” - Bill Dragoo Text and Photography: Susan and Bill Dragoo 60 WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL e stop and hike to the flat sum- Comanche empire would ultimately dimin- mit of a butte, taking shelter ish, culminating in surrender at Fort Sill in Wfrom the stiff south wind in the June 1875. Their transition into a new way lee of a stand of cedars, and look west into of life was led by Chief Quanah Parker. Texas. Time rewinds 150 years and we are hunters, sentinels of the Antelope Hills. Canyons, Creeks, and Grasslands Then, the moving mass of a bison herd With thunderheads 10 miles high and would have darkened the horizon, dust canyons appearing from nowhere, this obscuring the sky as the animals thundered is Comancheria, a place of visual infin- across the ancient plain. The day when this ity centered on the Texas Panhandle and land was ruled by the Comanches seems extending into several adjoining states. close at hand as we look out upon its open We are here to experience those canyons, prairie and fiery sunsets. creeks, and grasslands. From our home in Norman, OK, we’re heading west to string Many of the backroads on this route are groomed In 1706, the Comanches were a small tribe together a trail through the Comancheria and accessible to a wide range of vehicles. of hunter-gatherers living on the northern of western Oklahoma and Texas. That trail frontier of New Mexico. They launched an begins in the Wichita Mountains, an an- This fading sign in Cache, OK, marks the explosive expansion, plundering horses and cient range sculpted through the ages by entry to the derelict amusement park where reinventing themselves as ferocious mount- climatic forces into the knobs and domes of Quanah Parker’s Star House is located. ed warriors. Forcing their way onto the today. The Wichitas offered the tribe hiding southern plains, they carved out a vast ter- places, hunting grounds, and encampment. ritory larger than the entire European-con- On their eastern edge, within Fort Sill, jut trolled area north of the Rio Grande at the the Medicine Bluffs, a site sacred to the Co- time. Although they successfully forestalled manches and an appropriate starting point white settlement there for many years, the for our journey. We stop in the shade along JULY/AUGUST ‘16 61 Bryce at the long dining room table still present in the deteriorating structure. A tour of the house requires an appointment and a visit to a trading post on a lonesome highway intersection, where we are led into the ghost town of Eagle Park, an abandoned amusement park where the Star House was moved in the mid-20th century. We walk through and photograph the parlor, dining room, and bedrooms on the first floor, but the upper story is inaccessible, and likely dangerous because of the building’s poor condition. The roof and walls are sagging, but the building retains a haunting beauty, crouched in the deep green grass canopied by cottonwoods. Crossing the Old Red River Heading west on Highway 62, we turn The Lighthouse formation the cool, clear waters of Medicine Creek, south into Texas, crossing the Red River prominently marks the end flowing beneath the 320-foot bluff. Large and the state border just north of Quanah, of the trail by the same name Comanche encampments once filled this a community established in the 1880s as a in Palo Duro Canyon. valley full of legends. railroad stop and named for the Indian chief. Bill and Avantika Tamrakar of We visit the Quanah, Acme and Pacific Rail- Kathmandu, Nepal. Tamrakar From Fort Sill we ride west through the way Depot Museum, built in 1908, before is one of the owners of Dutch’s Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, where making a side trip on Farm Road 1167 east Restaurant in Quanah, TX. bison and longhorns graze on the open of town to see the Medicine Mounds, four The colorful collared lizard range. The park’s roads offer a smooth, twist- rounded hills that were camps and ceremo- is common to the Wichita ing ride with mountain views and multiple nial sites of the Comanches. Our attempt to Mountains Wildlife Refuge. stopping points for hiking and picnicking. take a closer look at the mounds leads to The scenery is ever-changing The foot trail to the summit of Elk Mountain a close encounter with some deep, nasty along these old asphalt ribbons. is one of the refuge’s most popular and yields mud. Once we extract the motorcycle, we access to caves and “rock rooms” perfect for decide it’s best to view the elevations (on a day of exploring. A motorized ride up the private property) from afar. winding road to the top of Mount Scott to watch the sunset over the Oklahoma Plains Back in Quanah, we stop for dinner at is a bonus. Dutch’s Restaurant. The curator of the local museum had mentioned the cafe is owned South of the refuge is the Star House, final by someone from Nepal, and that is what home of Quanah Parker. It was built around draws us there, having recently visited that 1890 for the Comanche leader with the region of the Himalayas. When we meet the help of Texas cattlemen, and is a testament owner, it’s almost like a reunion as we remi- to the respect he commanded. Quanah was nisce about our experiences in her home- the son of Cynthia Ann Parker, who was land. We find a strange irony in our interac- captured by Comanches in the 1830s, and tions with one another; she, a foreigner in Comanche leader Peta Nocona. He bal- west Texas, welcoming us, virtually natives, anced his role as leader of his people with and our common bond is a place halfway his function as an emissary to white culture. around the world. Not so long ago the white Quanah entertained notables as diverse as man was the foreigner here and the Coman- Geronimo and British Ambassador Lord ches were not quite so welcoming. 62 WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL TOURS JULY/AUGUST ‘16 63 TOURS A canyonside campsite in Copper Twelve miles south of Quanah is Copper The Llano was first described by Francisco Breaks State Park near Quanah, TX. Breaks State Park and our home for the eve- Vázquez de Coronado in a letter to the king ning. Copper Breaks takes its name from the of Spain in 1541: “I reached some plains Bison roam the open range in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. gray-green streaks of raw copper that band so vast, that I did not find their limit any- its many rust-colored canyons and arroyos. where I went, although I traveled over them Near the park is the Pease River Battle Site for more than 300 leagues … with no more where Quanah’s mother was recaptured landmarks than if we had been swallowed from her Comanche band in 1860. We up by the sea … there was not a stone, nor camp near one of the “breaks” in this re- bit of rising ground, nor a tree, nor a shrub, mote spot notable for its dark skies, perfect nor anything to go by.” for star gazing. We take advantage with an evening walk along the canyon’s edge, illu- The Other Grand Canyon minated by our headlamps, of course. On the Llano’s eastern escarpment just south of Amarillo, Palo Duro Canyon is one A Desert Oasis in Texas of the most spectacular landscapes in Texas. In the morning we continue south and west, Here we see the intense oranges, reds, and looking for a place called Roaring Springs, yellows of the Caprock ridge carved into a lush oasis in the west Texas desert. The pinnacles, buttes, and mesas by the head- site served as a Comanche camp in 1860 waters of the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the and was named for the sound of its rush- Red River. We camp in Palo Duro and hike ing waters. Stopping in the town of Roaring early the next morning to the Lighthouse, Springs for information, we are welcomed a 310-foot pedestal rock, before continuing by the local coffee club at the Travelers Inn our journey. Bed and Breakfast and ultimately escorted by the sheriff to the springs, now within the North of Amarillo is Lake Meredith and private Roaring Springs Ranch Club. Lo- the Alibates Flint Quarries National Monu- cals enjoy the swimming hole created by ment, where Plains Indians dug flint by the springs, which rush from the ground, hand for tools and weapons from 13,000 spilling over a small waterfall into a pool years ago to about 1870. Tools made from lined with greenery decidedly not what you Alibates flint have been found in far-flung expect to see in these parts. A highlight of places across the Great Plains and the our tour is a large and deeply worn grind- Southwest, and National Park Service rang- ing stone on the hillside overlooking the ers lead hikes into the ancient quarries.
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