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Home , Mount Rushmore

ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams

South Dakota’s offer history and artistry with an authentic Old West flavor OF MEN AND MOUNTAINS he faces emerge slow- cool, but sunny — a perfect win- the national memorial requires a Highway 16 winds through ly, ghostly features dow for the retired science teacher deliberate pilgrimage. downtown Rapid City past an peering out among and photography buff to snap off a Visitors traveling on I-90 from Albertson’s grocery store — a peaks. A nose, few frames. the east or west should take the good chance to stock up on provi- T a chin, then a rocky “We’ve actually been trying Highway 16 exit at Rapid City sions. To avoid downtown conges- jawline juts defiantly into view. for about five years to make it and continue to Keystone — locat- tion altogether, try the Highway 16 Suddenly, George over here,” said Hoffer, who lives ed only a few miles from Mount truck route. emerges in full profile — sur- with his wife, Patricia, in Caldwell, Rushmore. From Keystone, Highway 244 prisingly out of place amid the . A cross-country trip to see wrinkled contours of surrounding a friend in Oklahoma convinced mountaintops, and yet somehow, them to squeeze a detour to Mount Independence Day : serenely at home. Rushmore into their plans this year. An Explosion of Patriotism Seen from the road, Mount “It’s the first time we’ve actually Rushmore isn’t just a monument, seen it in person,” Patricia Hoffer To celebrate Fourth of July festivities, hosts one of the nation’s most spectacular but an ever-changing tableau. said, who couldn’t stop smiling at fireworks displays. Every pull-off along approaching the view. “And well worth it. It’s Fireworks this year are scheduled to begin at 9:20 highways offers a slightly different absolutely amazing.” p.m. on Sunday, July 3. The regular $8 parking fee view of the massive spectacle, giv- First-time visitors can catch a covers admission. ing new personality to the famous glimpse of Mount Rushmore long Visitors are encouraged to arrive early, as prime seats are usually grabbed early in the day. Since the quartet — six-story tall faces that before they reach the national display can also be enjoyed from afar, visitors can gaze solemnly back at visitors. memorial’s information center expect to find cars parked along nearby roads for miles. In some ways, it’s a photogra- — you’ll find off-road turnouts pher’s dream. The subjects never filled with avid photographers and move, but the fluid chemistry of onlookers. clouds and sunlight seem to cast Even from afar, the carvings subtle new expressions upon the are breathtaking. But with easy stony visages of Washington, parking, inexpensive admission, , Theodore hiking paths, summer programs Roosevelt and Abraham . and excellent museum exhibits, a To shutterbugs, it’s irresistible from trek up to the monument shouldn’t any angle. be missed. A few miles short of the entrance to the Mount Rushmore National No one stumbles Memorial Information Center, Ed across Mount Hoffer pulled his Itasca Spirit off Rushmore by Highway 244 and lugged out his accident camera tripod. Tucked deep within the Black The late-spring morning was Hills of southwestern , Janne and Chuck Robertson, of Boise, Idaho, found RV parking to be a breeze and the view spectacular at Mount Rushmore’s Visitor’s Center. 20 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 3 Flags from all 50 states, ROUTE 66 Road Trip districts, territories and com- monwealths of the line the walkway approaching the Grand View Terrace.

With dynamite and determination, a sculptor with mountain-sized vision and a team of common laborers made history in the Black Hills. Today, their shrine to democracy lives on in four granite faces that keep visitors streaming to Mount Rushmore. 21 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 3 don’t forget

Hat and sunscreen Warm clothing for cool evenings Camera Hiking shoes Rock-hunting guidebook good eats, great sites: • Black Hills Mining Museum, Lead • Borglum Historical Center, Keystone • Free-range buffalo herd, • Circle B Ranch Original Chuckwagon Supper & Western Music Show, Rapid City •  Memorial, Custer • Historic Main Street, Deadwood • Jewel Cave National Monument •  National Scenic Byway er. But the access is so good that he walked up there himself.” Route 66 Admission to the site is free, but entry requires an $8 parking fee, a Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealers: pass that is good for a full calendar year. Since the payment is not a Mid-States Camper Sales 10400 Recreational Drive federal entrance fee, National Park Black Hawk, SD 57718 Passes, Golden Age, Access and (605) 787-7453 Eagle Passports are not accepted. Schaaps Traveland Pets are only allowed in desig- 3100 W. Russell nated exercising areas — nearby Falls, SD 57107 (605) 332-6241 grassy knolls that also attract graz- where to stay: ing mountain goats. affords an easy two-mile drive to the — Battle Creek Campgrounds, Keystone When Mount Rushmore was memorial. The route isn’t terribly (605) 666-4557 first proposed, critics denounced — Custer State Park, Custer (800) 710-CAMP steep and offers numerous turnouts the as “an atrocity against — Crooked Creek Resort, Hill City (605) 574-2418 for viewing. But watch your driving, — Mount Rushmore KOA, Hill City (605) 574-2525 South Dakota’s Black Hills.” A as the road is closely patrolled. or (800) 562-8503 state historian originally suggest- Visitors coming from the south — Mystery Mountain Resort, Rapid City ed carving western icons, such as should follow Highway 385 north (800) 658-2267 Cody, into the region’s — Rapid City KOA, Rapid City (605) 348-2111 to Highway 244, which leads to granite spires as a way to attract or (800) 562-8504 Mount Rushmore. — Rushmore Shadows Resort, Rapid City tourists. While there are no camp- (800) 231-0425 But sculptor grounds at the memorial itself, the had a greater vision. area is studded with RV parks; City on Highway 16. “As we were can be found by following easily Instead, he chose four American campgrounds can also be found in eating dinner last night, we realized marked signs. presidents — who had shaped the nearby Black Hills National Forest a deer family was grazing right out- “I think it’s awesome to see nation — as symbols of freedom and Custer State Park. side our window,” Janne said. this,” Janne explained, gazing at the and democracy. On a recent visit, Janne and The Robertsons had no prob- massive carvings from the comfort Employing a crew of 400 labor- Chuck Robertson, of Boise, Idaho, lem driving their Minnie Winnie of the couple’s motorhome. “My ers, the sculpture was completed in stayed at Mystery Mountain Resort, up to Mount Rushmore’s Visitor’s husband has nerve damage in his 14 years at a cost of nearly a mil- located eight miles south of Rapid Center. Designated RV parking leg, so we brought a mobility scoot- lion dollars. About 90 percent of

22 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 3 The , honoring the famed (town picture) Deadwood still boasts a historic flavor, Customer Care You Lakota Sioux warrior, reveals a mountain carving in with turn-of-the-century architecture, bustling down- progress and is a short drive from Mount Rushmore. town boardwalks and gaming parlors. Can Depend On Ed and Patricia Hoffer, of Caldwell, Idaho, found The Old West lives on in South Dakota’s Black Hills, Mount Rushmore to offer great photographic where modern communities have grown from the Tow Bars possibilities from every angle — even the shoulder shadows of former mining camps and railroad stops. ™ ® ® of a nearby highway. • Alexus • Aladdin • Aventa II • Acclaim™ • Adventurer™ • Ambassador™ Class III and IV

Freedom of the road, convenience

• Apollo™ • ToadStop® • BrakeSafe™ • AutoStop® the carving was done solely with dynamite. Big visions run deep The information center offers an excellent in the Black Hills The security of knowing that when overview of the project, complete with period film A short drive from Mount Rushmore, visitors you stop, your tow car will too. footage, a sculptor’s studio, museum, theater and can observe a mountain carving in progress at the bookstore. Crazy Horse Memorial, which features a visitor Steering Controls Get out your camera to capture the Avenue of center, Indian museum, restaurant, art gallery, gift Flags, a pathway flanked by fluttering flags from all shops and viewing veranda. Roam the country, not the 50 states that leads to the Grand View Terrace, a fine Conceived by sculptor at place to sit, rest and study those massive faces. the invitation of Chief Standing Bear, the massive Need to stretch your legs? The one-half mile monument continues as a privately funded project. To keep you safe from the Presidential Trail allows hiking around the base of When completed, the image of Crazy Horse, the unexpected. High winds, tire blow the mountain for a close-up view. famed Lakota Sioux warrior who defeated Lt. Col. outs, TruCenter keeps you centered. For sheer drama, be sure to check out Mount George A. Custer, will measure 600-feet high. A Rushmore during daily lighting ceremonies, held nine-story-tall face is already visible. SwayPro™ Weight Distributing Hitch at 9 p.m. May through August and 8 p.m. in Open year-round, the memorial is located off with built in sway control September. The site is open year-round, except on Highway 244 north of Custer. Admission is $9 for The most Christmas Day. adults, or $20 per carload. user friendly Like to linger? Mount Rushmore has proven While you’re in the area, check out Custer State hitch on the attractive to RVing couples who seek seasonal Park and adjacent , home market. employment. Jobs at the memorial — gift shop to one of the world’s largest herds of free-ranging and concession work — pay an entry-level wage, . and workers can stay at discounted RV sites in Camping fees range from $13 to $18 per unit at Multi-purpose Lifts Keystone. Custer State Park, though sites do not offer hook- • Motorcycles “We call them work-campers,” explained Russ ups. For reservations, call (800) 710-CAMP. • Golf Carts Jobman, general manager at Mount Rushmore. The Black Hills offers a varied concentration • ATV’s “They’re usually retired and most of them are liv- of attractions, from museums, old mines and • And more ing strictly in their trailers. They see it as an oppor- chuckwagon rides to spectacular caves, including tunity to come to an area and be able to see the Jewel Cave National Monument, , entire area, to get into all the back country — things Stage Barn Crystal Cave, Black Hills Caverns and “When your ride needs a ride.” the average traveler doesn’t see.” Wind Cave. Work-campers also get a VIP pass, offering free History comes alive in former mining camps, or reduced rates at local attractions. “They earn including Deadwood, Lead and Custer. Stroll Old enough money to pay their keep and their meals, their West boardwalks, visit abandoned gold mines and Call 1-800-336-4336 insurance on the trailer and get to be semiretired,” take in staged gunfights. and ask for Bryce or Jobman said. “It’s none of the responsibilities along You can even try your hand at gambling in visit www.blueox.us with an active education.” Deadwood, but don’t gamble on finding a down- 051805 for more info. town parking place. Mini-buses that specialize in Reader Inquiry #107 town tours are a better bet. [ 23 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 3