Sigeric and the Via Francigena

Graham Avery St Mark’s Church, Florence 17 September 2014 Themes

• Who was Sigeric? • His visit to in 990 AD – The – The homeward itinerary • His route through Tuscany • The Via Francigena – From medieval way... – ... to modern footpath

Origins of Via Francigena • Main medieval way from Alps to Rome – not a fixed route, many variants • Earliest mentions: – ‘via Francisca’ (876) – ‘strata Romea’ (990) • Usually ‘via Romea’ until 12th century • Then ‘via Francesca’, ‘strata Francigena’, ‘strata Francigenarum’ until 15th century Medieval pilgrimages • Jerusalem – pilgrimage to Holy Land from 4th century – difficult after capture by Muslims in 640 • Rome – relics of martyrs, capital of Western church – after 640 replaced Jerusalem pilgrimage – 1300 first Jubilee declared by Boniface VIII • Compostela – discovery of tomb of St. James in 9th century – popular pilgrimage from 11th century

Sigeric (or Siric)

• Born circa 940 • Monk at Glastonbury (with ) • Abbot of St. Augustine’s, Canterbury • Bishop of Ramsbury 985 • 989 • Died 994 Anglo-Saxon Chronicle

• 989: Siric was this year appointed archbishop, and went afterwards to Rome for the pallium • 991: This year Ipswich was plundered and ... it was resolved that tribute should be given for the first time to the Danes, for the great terror they made along the sea-coast. On this first occasion it was ten thousand pounds. This was done on the advice of Archbishop Siric • 994: This year Archbishop Siric died Pallium

• White woollen stole worn around neck • Liturgical vestment of high office • In Roman church initially worn only by Pope • Later granted to metropolitan archbishops (having right to appoint bishops) & others • Normally received personally in Rome Sant’Apollinare in Classe, Ravenna Innocent III John Paul II Francis Arms of Province of Canterbury

Azure an archiepiscopal staff Argent ensigned with a cross formy Or surmounted of a pallium Argent edged and fringed Gold, charged with four crosses formy fitchy Sable Sigeric : the manuscript • London, British Library • Acquired by Sir Robert Cotton – MS. Cotton Tiberius B. V – 11th century parchment of 83 leaves • Miscellany of computistical, historical and astronomical treatises • Text concerning Sigeric: folio 23v–24r • Published by William Stubbs in 1874 in • Rerum Britannicarum Medii Aevi Scriptores – Sources for the medieval history of Britain • Vol. LXIII – Reliquiae Dunstanianae – Memorials of St Dunstan • Ch. XXIV – Adventus archiepiscopi nostri Sigerici ad Romam – Archbishop Sigeric’s arrival in Rome The churches of Rome Day 1

• Adventus archiepiscopi nostri Sigerici ad Romam Archbishop Sigeric’s arrival in Rome • Primitus ad limitem beati Petri apostoli First we went to the shrine of the holy apostle Peter (San Pietro in Vaticano) • Deinde ad sanctam mariam scolam anglorum Then to the English College of St. Mary (Santa Maria in Sassia) 1 San Pietro in Vaticano 2 Santa Maria in Sassia Day 2

• ad sanctum laurentium in craticula ∙ ad sanctum valentinum in ponte molui ∙ Ad sanctam agnes ∙ Ad sanctum laurentium foris murum ∙ Ad sanctum sebastianum ∙ ad sanctum anastasium ∙ Ad sanctum paulum ∙ Ad sanctum bonefatium ∙ Ad sanctam savinam ∙ Ad sanctam mariam scolam grecam ∙ Ad sanctam ceciliam ∙ Ad sanctum crisogonum ∙ Ad sanctam mariam transtiberi ∙ Ad sanctum pancratium ∙ • Deinde reversi sunt in domum Then they went home 3 San Lorenzo in Piscibus 4 S. Valentino al Ponte Molle 5 Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura 6 San Lorenzo fuori le Mura 7 San Sebastiano 8 SS. Vincenzo e Anastasio 9 San Paolo alle Tre Fontane 10 SS. Bonifacio e Alessio 11 12 13 Santa Cecila in Trastevere 14 San Crisogono 15 Santa Maria in Trastevere 16 San Pancrazio Day 3

• Mane ad sanctam mariam retunda ∙ Ad sanctos apostolos ∙ Ad sanctus johannes in laterane The next day to S. Maria Rotonda, to SS Filippo e Giacomo, to S. Giovanni in Laterano. • Inde reficimus cum domini apostolico johanno There we had a meal with Pope John • Deinde ad jerusalem ∙ Ad sanctam mariam majorem ∙ Ad sanctum petrum ad vincula ∙ Ad sanctum laurentium ubi corpus eius assatus fuit Then to S. Croce in Gerusalemme , S. Maria Maggiore, S. Pietro in Vincoli, S. Lorenzo in Panisperna 17 Santa Maria Rotonda 18 SS. Filippo e Giacomo 19 San Giovanni in Laterano 20 Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 21 22 23 San Lorenzo in Panisperna The homeward itinerary

Iste sunt submansiones de roma usque ad mare These are the stopping-places from Rome to the sea

I urbs roma (Roma) II johannis VIIII (San Giovanni in Nono) III bacane (Baccano) IlIl suteria (Sutri) V furcari (Forcassi) List of 79 place-names concluding with

• LXXV Atherats (Arras) • LXXVI Bruwaei (Bruay) • LXXVII Teranburh (Therouanne) • LXXVIII Gisne (Guisnes) • LXXX Sumeran (Sombre)

Sigeric in Tuscany IX Aqua pendente Acquapendente X Sce petir in pail San Pietro in Paglia XI Abricula Le Briccole XII Sce quiric San Quirico d’Orcia XIII Turreiner Torrenieri XIV Arbia Arbia XV Seocine Siena XVI Burgenove Abbadia a Isola XVII Aelse Elsa Sce petir in pail (San Pietro in Paglia)

Abricula (Le Briccole)

Sce quiric (San Quirico d’Orcia) Turreiner (Torrenieri) Arbia

Seocine (Siena) Burgenove (Abbadia a Isola) Aelse (Elsa) XVIII Sce martin in fosse S. Martino Fosci XIX Sce gemiane San Gimignano XX Sce maria glan Chianni XXI Sce peter currant Coiano XXII Sce dionisii San Genesio XXIII Arneblanca Arno XXIII Aqua nigra Usciana XXV Forcri Porcari Sce martin in fosse (S. Martino Fosci) Sce gemiane (San Gimignano) Sce maria glan (Chianni) Sce peter currant (Coiano) Sce dionisii (San Genesio) Arneblanca (Arno) Aqua nigra (Usciana) Forcri (Porcari) XXVI Luca Lucca XXVII Campmaior Camaiore XXVIII Luna Luni XXIX Sce stephane S. Stefano XXX Aguilla Aulla XXXI Puntremel Pontremoli XXXII Sce Benedicte Montelungo XXXIII Sce Modesanne Berceto Luca (Lucca) Campmaior (Camaiore) Luna (Luni) Sce stephane (S. Stefano di Magra) Aguilla (Aulla) Puntremel (Pontremoli) Sce Benedicte (Montelungo) Questions

• How did Sigeric travel? – on foot? alone? • How long was his stay in Rome? – 2 ½ days for 23 churches? • How long to Canterbury? – are submansiones overnight stays? – why such short stages in Tuscany? Distances between submansiones (km)

40

30

20

10

0 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 Statistics

stages km. av. Roma-Toscana 9 148 16 Toscana 23 320 14 Toscana-Alpi 16 385 24 Svizzera 8 179 22 Francia 22 656 30

Total 78 1687 22 Comparison of sections (in km)

35

30 30

25 24 22 22

20

16 15 14

10

5

0 Roma-Toscana Toscana Toscana-Alpi Svizzera Francia Total

Why this route for VF ?

• Traverse of Alps – Why Gran San Bernardo? • Traverse of Apennines – Why Passo della Cisa? • Lombardia vs. Byzantium • Roads in early medieval period – Roman roads?

Anglo- to Rome

• His temporibus multi Anglorum gentis nobiles et ignobiles, viri et feminae, duces et privati, divini amoris instinctu de Britannia ad Romam venire consuerunt – In those times many English people came to Rome, drawn by the love of God: nobles & commoners, men & women, leaders & private persons • : Cronica Maiora • Ini ... ad limina beatorum apostolorum ... profectus est ... quod his temporibus plures de gente Anglorum, nobiles, ignobiles, laici, clerici, uiri ac feminae certatim facere consuerunt – Ine went to Rome, which in those times many English people strove to do: nobles, commoners, lay people, clerics, men and women • Bede: Historia ecclesiastica gentis Anglorum • 653-689 Benedict Biscop (5 visits) • 689 Caedwalla, King of Wessex (†) • 667 Archbishop (†) • 700 Hwaetberht, Abbot of Wearmouth • 701 Aldhelm • 709 Coenred, King of • 709 Offa, King of East Anglia • 716 Wethburh • 721 Daniel, Bishop of Winchester • 721 Willibald & Winnibald & 730 • 725 Nothelm • 726 Ine, King of Wessex (†) & Queen Æthelburh • 732 Wynfrith = Boniface (3 visits) • 735 Archbishop Egbert • 736 Archbishop Nothelm • 737 Forthhere, Bishop of Sherborne & Queen Frithugyth • 733 Egbert, Bishop of York & 735 • 738 Bugge • 740 Archbishop Cuthbert • 750 Cuthwin, Bishop of East Anglia • 757 Forthred • 761 Archbishop Bregwin • 779 Cinebryth, Bishop of Winchester • 781 Alcuin • 795 Odberht • 797 Wada • 798 Cildas & Ceolbert • 801 Archbishop Æthelheard & Cyneberht, Bp of Winchester • 814 Archbishop & Wigbeorht, Bishop of Sherborne • 833 Archbishop • 855 Æthelwulf, King of Wessex & son Alfred • 874 Burhred, King of Mercia (†) & Queen Æthelswith • 908 Archbishop • 927 Archbishop • 960 Archbishop Dunstan • 990 Archbishop Sigeric Willibald at Lucca in 721

• Cumque pergentes venerunt ad urbe quae vocatur Luca, Willebaldus et Wynnebaldus patrem eorum in comitatu itineris pariter cum illis ducebant. Statimque sic subitaneo preventus est corporis infirmitate, ut preteritis temporum capitudinis prope iam instaret exitus sui dies – Pursuing their journey, Willibald and Wynnebald arrived at Lucca with their father. He was struck down by a severe bodily sickness and soon his end was near. • Statim illi germani filii eius corporis patris eorum exanimem paternae pietatis affectu percipientes, venuste volverunt et terra tumaverunt, et in urbe Luca ad Sanctum Frigidianum ibi reqiuescit corpus patris eorum – When they saw that he was dead they wrapped his body in a fine shroud and buried him, and his body rests in the Church of San Frediano at Lucca Capella Trenta, San Frediano, Lucca

DIVI RICCARDI REGIS OSSA ET CINERES

Here lie the remains of King Saint Richard Alcuin at Parma in 781

• Iussus igitur ab Eanboldo archiepiscopo ... ut sibi pallium impetraret ab apostolico, venit ad Romam. Cumque reverteretur accepto pallio, habuit regem Karolum Parma civitate obvium – Instructed by Archbishop Eanbald to seek the pallium for him from the Pope, he went to Rome. On the way back after obtaining the pallium, he encountered King Charles at Parma • Quem magnis rex alloquens suasionibus et precibus postulavit, ut ad se post expletionem missatici in Franciam reverteretur – The king addressed him with pleas and entreaties, requesting him to join him in Francia after completing his mission Boniface: Epistulae

• Perpaucae sunt civitates in Longobardia vel in Francia aut in Gallia in qua non sit adultera vel meretrix generis Anglorum, quod scandalum est et turpitudo totius ecclesiae vestrae – There are few cities in Lombardy or France or Gaul without an adulterous woman or prostitute from England, which is a scandal and a shame for your church Florence & Francigena

• Florence not on early medieval route to Rome • Less important than Lucca & Siena – Visit of Charlemagne in 786 – San Donato (Irish) at Fiesole in 829 – No evidence of Anglo-Saxon visitors • But important Anglo-Saxon works of art – Codex Amiatinus (Biblioteca Laurenziana) – Part of Franks Casket (Museo del Bargello) Codex Amiatinus

• Earliest complete text of Vulgate – written and illuminated at monastery of Jarrow – 1029 pages, 50 kg – dedicated by Abbot Ceolfrid to Pope Gregory II • It left Jarrow on 4 June 716 with Ceolfrid – he died at Langres on 25 September • It was at Abbadia San Salvatore in 9th cent. – taken to Florence by Medici in 1786 – now in Biblioteca Laurenziana

Franks Casket

• Whalebone box made in Northumbria in 8th cent. – at Auzon near St. Julien de Brioude in 19th cent • 4 panels bought in 1857 by A.W. Franks – donated to British Museum in 1867 • 1 panel bought by J.B. Carrand – donated by L. Carrand to Bargello in 1888 • Scenes from Bible, Roman history, Nordic myths – with texts in runes, Old English,

Renaissance of Via Francigena

• 1985 Centro Studi Romei, San Gimignano – Rivista ‘De Strata Francigena’ • 1988 Renato Stopani ‘La Via Francigena - Una strada europea nell'Italia del Medioevo’ – Le Lettere, Firenze • 1990 Giovanni Caselli ‘La Via Romea - Sulla grande via dei pellegrini da Canterbury a Roma’ – Giunti, Firenze • 1994 Via Francigena designated as ‘European Cultural Route’ by Council of Europe

• 1997 Association of Via Francigena – Adelaïde Trezzini, Geneva • 2000 Jubilee celebrations, Rome • 2001 European Association of Via Francigena • Guidebooks to VF published since 2000 – Italian, French, German, English • Interest of Italian authorities – 2007 new signs inaugurated (Monteriggioni) – 2009 approval of official route (Version 3.1) – ‘Strategia di marketing territoriale’

Monteriggioni Canterbury

Via Francigena today

• From medieval way to long-distance path – problem of defining route for walkers • Infrastructure needed – information, way-marks, accommodation • Example of Camino de Santiago • Interest of VF for rural development – LEADER programme of EU – demand for creation of alternative routes • Garfagnana, Campiglia d’Orcia • « A differenza di una serie Fabrizio Ardito di altri grandi itinerari, Lungo la Francigena primo fra tutto il Camino A piedi sulla via di Sigerico di Santiago, la via è dal Gran San Bernardo ancora un po’ complicata. a Roma .. manca la segnaletica, le strutture ricettive non Touring Club Italiano sono abondanti, le 2007 informazione sono abbastanza carenti... » • « A l’évidence, dans le André Weill Val d’Aoste et dans la Nous sommes faits plaine du Pô, l’itinéraire pour marcher pédestre de la Via Francigena n’existe pas… La Via Francigena l’itinéraire officiel se Mercure Dauphinois contente d’emprunter les 2004 axes routiers qui relient les villes entre elles » • “The historic route Paul Chinn (from Piacenza to & Babette Gaillard Fiorenzuola) follows the SS9 which has Lightfoot Guide become a very busy to the via Francigena road with many heavy goods vehicles and few Pilgrimage Publications escape routes for riders 2008 or walkers” Best walks on VF

• Two traffic-free excursions – about10 km on country lanes (strade bianche) • Abbadia a Isola (near Siena) – includes Montagnola & Monteriggioni • Vignoni Alto (near San Quirico d’Orcia) – includes good views of Val d’Orcia