Back Country Horsemen of NONPROFIT ORG PO Box 4864 U.S. POSTAGE PAID Butte, MT 59701 BUTTE MT Decker PERMIT NO 593 Dispatch

February 2013 www.bchmt.org Letter from the Chair Mark Himmel, Chairman, BCH Montana

or the Back Country Horsemen of Montana have probably FChairman s removed a million trees blocking the trail and letter this time I installed half that many water bars in our quest to wanted to talk about improve the trail and lessen the impact of our use. the 40th anniversary for BCH coming I calculated that between 1974 and up, without repeating what has today, using conservative numbers, already been said. Something Montana s Back Country Horsemen new or di erent  ere are not contributed 256,000 volunteer hours. many topics we haven t touched upon. With that much time accumulated, it s Montana Back Country Horsemen State Chapters In a discussion with Charlie O Leary, the idea of reviewing Back hard to imagine that a trail exists in the forest that we have not spent time on at Beartooth Bitterroot Cabinet Charlie Russell Country Horsemen volunteer hours over the years came up as a topic that PO Box 614 PO Box 1083 PO Box 949 PO Box 3563 might be of interest to our membership. It s a topic speci cally related to some point. Back Country Horsemen Absorakee, MT 59001 Hamilton, MT 59840 Libby, MT 59923 Great Falls, MT 59404 Montana which I am almost sure we have not discussed. Digging around, of Montana have probably removed we could only come up with documentation for the last ten years. I took a million trees blocking the trail and East Slope Flathead Gallatin Hi-Line on the task of creating a graph that  lls in the missing thirty years. installed half that many water bars 307 N Main PO Box 1192 PO Box 3232 PO Box 1379 in our quest to improve the trail and Conrad, MT 59425 Columbia Falls, MT 59912 Bozeman, MT 59772 Cut Bank, MT 59427 Ken Ausk informed me that back in 1974, in their  rst year, the lessen the impact of our use. Flathead Chapter put in over 1000 hours of volunteer time. (I can t Judith Basin Last Chance Mile High Mission Valley We ride the forest for many di erent PO Box 93 PO Box 4008 PO Box 4434 PO Box 604 imagine coming up with the idea of Back Country Horsemen one year, Lewistown, MT 59457 Helena, MT 59601 Butte, MT 59702 Ronan, MT 59864 then rising to that level of challenge the next. Heck In 1974, I was still in reasons; whether it s trail clearing, high school). pack support for a trail crews, or Missoula Selway-Pintler Wilderness  ree Rivers Upper Clark Fork simply venturing out there and PO Box 2121 PO Box 88 PO Box 251 PO Box 725 Ok – Back to the graph. looking to make a di erence. One Missoula, MT 59806 Hamilton, MT 59840 Dillon, MT 59725 Deer Lodge, MT 59722 Back Country Horsemen of Montana Mission Statement horseman makes a little dent in the • Perpetuate the common sense use and enjoyment of America s back country and tasks ahead. As a chapter, with quite a Wild Horse Plains wilderness. PO Box 398 • Work to ensure that public lands remain open to recreational stock use. few horsemen, we can conquer many • Assist various agencies responsible for the maintenance and management of public challenges. As a state organization, Plains, MT 59859 If you would like to join, please contact a chapter in your area. lands. • Educate, encourage, and solicit active participation in the wise and sustained use there is no challenge that we of the back country by horsemen and the general public, commensurate with our heritage. can t overcome. • Foster and encourage formation of new Back Country Horsemen organizations. Letter from the Chair continued... Backcountry continued... We know of our accomplishments over the past 40 volunteer time improving our trails.  e next 40 is what years. What will the next 40 years look like I am sure we make of it. I predict Back Country Horsemen of when Ken and company started this organization long Montana will exceed a million hours by then. ago, they could not have imagined it would build to a state-wide organization that logged 256,000 hours of Mark Himmel

Volunteer Hours

21000

19000 17000

15000 13000

11000 Volunteer Hours Tin Cup Lake near Darby, 11 miles from trailhead: backcountry …a e Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall Wilderness: Undeniably de nite YES backcountry. 9000

7000

5000 3000 1000 We all know the de nition of wilderness, 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 but have you ever de ned backcountry E xtrapolating from known volunteer hours in 1974 to tracked hours beginning in 2002, Back Country for yourself, as a Back Country Horseman Horsemen of Montana have conservatively dedicated over a quarter-million volunteer hours and improved innumerable trails.

ere are many things in Western culture that are admirable. But a culture that alienates itself from the ground of its own being–from the wilderness outside ... and from that wilderness, the wilderness within–is doomed to very destructive behavior, ultimately perhaps, self-destructive behavior.

–Gary Snyder– Turtle Island, 1969

BCH of MT Contacts Chairman Mark Himmel National Directors Dave Crawford 406.771.0809 406.675.4293 [email protected] [email protected]

Vice-Chairman Connie Long Chuck Miller 406.543.0528 406.961.5453 [email protected] [email protected]

Treasurer Sandy Taylor (Alternate) John Chepulis Painted Rocks Lake on West Fork Road: backcountry view, but alas, some Lake Como, a popular swimming, boating &  shing lake with stock trails 406.842.7843 406.322.4823 would say NO because of the road and bridge. all around; looks like backcountry, but only minutes from the town of [email protected] [email protected] Darby …some would say NO.

Secretary Nancy Pollman State Newsletter Editor Noorjahan Parwana For me, and for thousands with similar inclinations, the most important passion of life is the overpowering desire 406.546.6492 406.782.3682 to escape periodically from the churches of a mechanistic civilization. To us the enjoyment of solitude, complete [email protected] [email protected] independence, and the beauty of unde led panoramas is absolutely essential to happiness. —Bob Marshall Backcountry... Can It be De ned 2012 Mission Valley BCH Completed ree-Year Work by Kathy Hundley, Selway-Pintler Wilderness BCHM Project with Forest Service s your de nition of backcountry the same as the I think backcountry is just a few minutes from town, by David Crawford & Carol Madden, Mission Valley Chapter BCHM person riding the trail beside you Is it the same where there are no houses, and I can hike with my dogs, asI a co-worker, family member, a stranger passing by trail ride and ski. I feel like I am out in the woods and he Mission Valley Back Country Horsemen or someone you know who lives in another state  e I can t hear anything but the wind and wildlife…no Tkicked o a work agreement with the answer is, Probably not. vehicles. Some argue this is front country. Can you US Forest Service in 2009. In cooperation with de ne the di erence Carole Johnson of the Superior Ranger District, it  e Mirriam Webster Dictionary de nes backcountry was agreed that the club would complete regular as: noun: a rural region that forms the edge of the settled One friend said that if you ride the trail and get so far and special trail improvements to bene t all who or developed part of a country; For example, He took in that you have to make camp, that is backcountry. In use the back country trail system.  ere were a month s supplies and headed out to the backcountry. other words, it is a pack trip. So, you want to go on a pack four projects worked on over a period of three Synonyms–backcountry, backland(s), backwater, trip into the wilderness– get away from it all–and the years. Regular maintenance of these trails occurs wilderness boundary begins at the trailhead, right where backwoods, bush, hinterland, outback, outlands, up- every year, while the special improvements were you just drove to with your truck and horse trailer; is it all country; Related Words–boonies, boondocks, country, completed on an as-needed basis. backcountry, maybe countryside, sticks.  e  rst project was the River Trail that runs 13 High school students Several years ago, while One thing we can all probably agree on is that our comments included: miles, from St. Regis down the Clark Fork River driving home from our backcountry here in Montana and in the other Rocky deep trails way back, to Ferry Landing at the St. Regis cut-o highway, Back Country Horsemen of Mountain States is a lot bigger and wilder than it is somewhere where you situated between Hwy 200 and I90 to the north. Montana State Convention, around the rest of the country. can feel disconnected from  e work consisted of clearing and brushing trails my friends and I got into an society. One student de ned and reconstructing areas in the shale rock slides interesting discussion on what backcountry as, anywhere my cell phone won t work for trail passage in several di erent locations. the de nition of the word backcountry. To my surprise, Students also felt that it was a feeling.  eir perceptions Gravel and supplies were placed at the trail head the answers, though at times similar, were more o en seem largely to be de ned by where and how they and packed in by volunteers. Barbed wire was very di erent.  is raised my curiosity so I began to ask were raised. Students born in Montana tend to de ne packed out to promote safety for those who use everyone what their de nition of backcountry was, even backcountry as trails way back. Students who moved the trail. my students in school. I thought I knew exactly what it here from larger cities consider areas right around town as meant to me, but a er these discussions, I m not so sure  e second project was the Boyd Mountain backcountry. anymore. My conclusion is that the term backcountry trail, located two miles west of St. Regis, between represents more a feeling than a geographical area. One thing we can all probably agree on is that our I-90 and Camel s Hump Road.  is project backcountry here in Montana and in the other Rocky consisted of clearing and brushing the trail that We all know the de nition of wilderness, but have Mountain States is a lot bigger and wilder than it is around runs to the top of Boyd Mountain. you ever de ned backcountry for yourself, as a Back the rest of the country. Country Horseman Does your idea of the backcountry  e third project was the  ompson Creek have to mean wilderness, or can it be the patch of woods Yes, wilderness is de nitely backcountry, but what about Trail, located outside Superior.  is 10-mile behind your house that takes you away from civilization the rest of the United States Don t you imagine that the trail had not been regularly maintained and this and the pressures of your everyday life, even for just an de nition of backcountry for the Back Country Horsemen was the  rst time the Mission Valley BCH had hour or two. Following are some of the answers I heard. Arizona and New Mexico would include desert; for the performed clean-up.  is took the club six days See if any of these de nitions are the same for you. Ponder Back Country Horsemen of Florida, backcountry would to complete in the  rst year, due to the amount of the dilemma of a concrete de nition. include swampland; and for the Back Country Horsemen steep terrain and downfall in the area. of Michigan, Indiana and Illinois, it would include rolling For some, backcountry has to be roadless–similar to hillsides covered with hardwoods and cedars  e fourth project completed was the Flat Rock wilderness. It s a place that you can only get to on foot or Trail west of St. Regis.  is ten-mile trail runs by horseback. Does that mean that the 15 miles of Forest One thing is for sure; backcountry is global And, it s up from Twelve Mile Creek, on Camel s Hump Road, Service road lined with alpine, spruce and  r you just to us to continue using it wisely and preserve it for future to the top of the Continental Divide on Tamarack drove at 10 mph, pulling your horse trailer to get to the generations. Backcountry is beautiful, wild, precious trailhead for your  ve-day pack trip into the wilderness, is and humbling. It s the place we Back Country Horsemen Creek Road.  e work completed the  rst two NOT backcountry Hmmm want–no, need– to keep our inner spirits alive and well years consisted of cleaning and brushing the trails.  e third year two turnpikes were built to make dangerous mud bogs safer Mission Valley continued...

to cross.  is involved packing in supplies such as water commitment to making trail riding-safe. While this type bars, gravel, a culvert and required tools. of agreement was unique and pro table, it is not what drives the spirit of volunteerism with this group. Since its  is agreement brought $22,000 to the Mission inception,  e Mission Valley BCH has done projects very Valley Back Country Horsemen for their expertise and much like these in many locations. Upper Clark Fork From the Saddlebag Back Country Horsemen Annual Fun Ride-Saturday, July 13th His father rode sitting forward slightly in Gold Creek, MT the saddle, holding the reins in one hand about two inches above the saddle horn…  e boy who rode on slightly before him sat a horse not only as if he d been born to it which he was but as if were he begot by malice or mischance into some queer land where horses never were he would have found them anyway. Would have known that there was something missing for the world to be right or he right in it and would have set forth to wander wherever it was needed for as long as it took until he came upon one and he would have know that that was what he sought and it would have Come Join Us!! Ride a well-marked trail with been. your own group at your own pace. Special prizes –Cormac McCarthy, All the Pretty Horses and BBQ after the ride. Free camping available. Questions?-Call Wade Murphy at (406) 431-1717 or visit: www.bchmt.org/clarkfork/BCHfunridefl yer2013.pdf Mules of the Remount continued... Seeing Yellowstone on a Horse by Cherie Russell, Missoula Chapter BCHM For your own personal information, you might be Yes, "those were the days." And then it was over.  e interested to know that during the time the Remount Depot airplane had won. Planes could drop cargo by parachute n early Spring 2011, BCH member Sheila Getty and I shrouded road along the side of a mountain. It was a was in operation, we raised Morgan, American Saddler, onto a  re so much faster than a mule could deliver it. put our heads together to organize a trip to northern painstakingly slow drive but we  nally located the turno , and oroughbred horses. Heavy-grade brood mares were And fewer lookout stations needed to be supplied by pack YellowstoneI National Park with our horses. Several a road recently carved out of the forest. At the end crossed with jacks, which in turn were crosses between strings—helicopters could do the job now. In fact, the months later, on a beautiful September day, six of us was a beautiful clearing, brightly lit by the full moon; Spanish and Mammoth breeds to produce the mules we airplane was even beginning to phase out the lookouts started an incredible adventure. My husband, Tom, was the gurgling and bubbling sounds of running water needed for our  re strings. At one time there were ten pack themselves.  e  re-spotting plane could do the job better the only male in the group; …to provide the muscle, he pinpointed the near-by stream and the several corrals strings at the Remount Depot utilized almost exclusively for and cheaper. mused. Others in the group consisted of Nancy Stoverud, were there waiting for our horses. Our poor horses – they  re suppression work. e Depot was abandoned primarily Barb Jennings and Jan Sousa. had been in the trailers for twelve hours. as an economy measure, but also because of our increasing  e words "Remount Depot," "Winter Range," use of aircra in forest  re control and the constantly "mules," and "pack string" were fast fading from use.  e Campgrounds at Yellowstone, unless in the We planned to ride into the Absaroka Beartooth increasing number of miles of road in the Region, which cut times—in the words of a certain folksinger—"they were backcountry, prohibit stock; thus, we had to stay outside Wilderness during the  rst two days and these trailheads down our need for pack stock. a-changing." the Park. We opted for Timber Camp in the Gallatin were near-by. A er a leisurely breakfast, we saddled up But a legend was being born. National Forest, seven miles from Gardiner.  e ranger and headed to Knox Lake (aka Castle Lake).  e trail was said …it was our best bet, as there were corrals, water, steep and rocky but Knox Lake is located in the middle of With permission from the Forest History Society: http://www.foresthistory.org/ASPNET/Publications/region/1/ plenty of grazing and lots of room for trailers. I was a very large mountain meadow hemmed in by mountains early_days/4/contents.htm assured that the dirt road, even though it turned into one jutting up to meet the azure sky.  ere were fresh grizzly Tribulation lane past the teeny hamlet of Jardine, would accommodate bear and wolf tracks along the shore. long trailers. People do it all the time, she added. A couple of hours into the drive, a  at tire on Sheila s trailer On the return trip, Roy, Sheila s horse, stumbled and along I-90 delayed almost went down. our ETA at Timber  ere was a 2 Camp; however, nail embedded it allowed Tom in his right front to provide his hoof; it took muscle. Barb s Leatherman and many tries Night had before it was fallen when we extracted.  ere  nally pulled was no blood and into Gardiner a horse medical and headed for kit provided Timber Camp. the means to Finding a strange immediately treat campground at it. Lamar River Trail terrain makes is easy to buchwhack. night has always topped my list of  ings to Avoid. On the other side We decided to change our campsite for our Yellowstone of Jardine was a ninety-degree turn onto a very narrow rides.  e president of the Gardiner Rodeo Association and old wooden bridge with very little wiggle room for allowed us to use the rodeo grounds north of town to set maneuvering the trailers. We provided entertainment for up camp.  ere was no charge, but we gave a generous a few Jardine residents who could be seen peering out donation.  ere were plenty of corrals and hoses for their windows through parted curtains. water, plus a large parking lot. A er everyone safely maneuvered their vehicles over We selected two trails to ride – the Lamar River Trail the bridge, we thought it would be just a few minutes to and the Specimen Ridge Trail. A park ranger told us that Craig Edwards is a farmer and  ne art photographer from the Northcentral Montana town of Big Sandy. His work can be seen at the Lost Timber Camp. We were all eagerly anticipating Barb s we could park in most pull-o s for the day.  ere were Woodsman Gallery in Lincoln, the Two Rivers Gallery in Big Timber, the S. Jenkins Fine Art Gallery in Butte, and in Big Sandy Jambalaya and a glass or two of wine.  e full moon also certain trailheads that provided overnight at the Bear Paw Deli and Miscellanea Antiques. He will also be showing at the Western Heritage Art Show in Great Falls during parking for out tters packing into the interior of Russell Week, March 13-17. did little to assist driving the narrow, curvy and tree Seeing Yellowstone continued... Mules of the Remount - A Legend Is Born by Peyton Moncure, Forest History Society Yellowstone; in northern Yellowstone there were two of these – Soda Butte and Slough ineteen  irty was a good year in the Northern It was at the Remount Depot that a delegation of United Creek. NRegion. Good because, among other reasons, that Nations foresters stayed for several days and nights as part It was drizzling at 7:00 the next morning year saw the beginning of a colorful project that became of their educational  eld trips to forestry-oriented projects when we headed out to Soda Butte. Nancy closely identi ed with the U.S. Forest Service—the in various parts of the world.  ese foreign foresters, and Barb s certi ed weed-free hay, which establishment of the Remount Depot with a promising most of who could speak very little or no English, were was on top of the trailer, had to be bagged program involving pack mules and saddle horses. an interesting group. One of the highlights of their stay here was the capture of a bothersome black bear in a before they would be granted permission to Here, in a beautiful location up Ninemile Creek about enter the Park.  e Park Service supplied bacon-baited bear trap made of a large culvert.  e most 30 miles from Regional headquarters in Missoula, Region interested observed was a German forester, a "Baron" the plastic bags; Tom supplied the muscle. 1 began the acquiring and breeding of superior pack We were asked if we had a recent (within something-or-other, who was so fascinated by the bear mules and saddle horses which were to have a special that the rest of his colleagues immediately dubbed him a year) Coggins Test certi cate and Brand destiny. Here would be headquartered the elite in pack Vista of Lamar Valley from the Specimen Ridge Trail. "Smokey Baron," and the name stuck with him. Inspection. At Soda Butte, the parking lot and riding stock especially developed for the western was  lled with wolf watchers, some illegally mountains; and here would take place their training for  e Remount and its pack strings took part in some of hilltops, there are scenic vistas of the Lamar River. Cache parked in Stock Trailers Only spots. A ranger soon the important role of transporting freight in the rugged the  lming of "Red Skies of Montana," by 20th Century Creek is the next ford, and while doable in September, arrived and remedied that. A pack of wolves was feeding forests of the Region, hauling supplies to  re lines, Fox. Incidentally, it was on a motorcycle ride between the earlier in the summer it may be too deep and swi to on a bison carcass not far from the trail. By the time we servicing lookouts, transporting construction materials Remount Depot and Missoula that the originally chosen cross safely, even on horses. Very close to the ford on tacked up, the wolves were  nished and had moved on. into back country Ranger Stations and spike camps.  is star, Victor Mature, was involved in a wreck that landed this creek, there is a stock campground. Much to our  e clouds had also given way to bright sunshine. was the "Time of the Mule."  is would be transportation him in a Missoula hospital for a time with a broken leg. dismay there were several llamas tethered in camp about with a capital "T". A er that happened the movie company packed up and  ere was still an obstacle to overcome; a herd of bison 100 yards away, staring at us with their unblinking and went home to Hollywood, but were back the next summer was sprawled across the trail. Bison are unpredictable, piercing eyes, while standing as motionless as boulders Begun in 1930, phased out in 1954, the Ninemile for another try at  lming the movie. ( e  nal version especially the bulls during rutting season. Slowly and along the trail. Remount Depot saw history made, saw colorful characters was shot the following year with Richard Widmark as the cautiously, we made a wide berth of the herd, while both and colorful events, saw the passing of the mule era with  e next day we again le at the crack of dawn to ride star.) humans and horses kept watchful eyes on the noisy herd. the great pack strings, witnessed the coming of the "Tin the Specimen Ridge Trail from west to east.  e day Goose"—Ford Tri-motor whose ilk was responsible, in It was during the late 1930s that a  eet of three giant Lamar River Trail starts out open, wide, and covered before, we had scouted a small parking area, located about the  nal analysis, for the demise of the Remount Depot. "transporters" for mules came into existence—giant with sage and grass. Much of this area was burned to a mile from Tower Junction, and across the road from the In between these dates, the Remount Depot and its stock bodies built onto Kenworth chassis, each capable of varying degrees in the  res of 1988. A er fording Soda trailhead. It was large enough to park a few horse trailers neighborhood partner, the Winter Range near Perma, saw carrying an entire pack string and its lead saddle horse. Butte Creek, the trail crosses high meadows with copses of if there were no vehicles already randomly parked. We such events as the Forest Service " eld days"—exhibitions  ese 10-animal trucks had 10 wheels, the four sets of trees and climbs up and over several side hills. From these arrived early enough to secure spots for our trailers. put on for the public during which anyone could partake rear dual wheels being driven by tandem drive sha , of a barbecue lunch for twenty- ve cents, could watch and were planned and developed at the Forest Service packers load and show their pack strings in action, and Engineering Shop in Missoula by Dave Pronovost, the could watch rodeo-type displays of bronc riding, lassoing, blacksmith in charge of the stock. Frequently during the and other skills expected on a working stock ranch.  re season these green behemoths—sometimes all three in a caravan—would pass through Missoula loaded with During these  eld days of the 1930s and 1940s, Dave mules on their way to a  re, many pedestrians stopping to Pronovost, the Forest Service blacksmith, demonstrated gaze at the thrilling sight of the unusual travelers whose how the toughest and most stubborn of mules could be heads and necks extended above the solid metal truck shod e ciently and without injury to either blacksmith or racks. mule. It was during the early 1940s that Pronovost became known as the "Flying Blacksmith" when the Forest Service Many of the "old-timers" who were associated with started  ying him into Big Prairie on the Flathead to shoe the Remount Depot during its heyday have died, and the large number of mules kept there during the summer. information and photographs are not as complete as could He attained a record of 34 horses and mules shod in one be desired. But an old letter written by E. Arnold Hanson, day. Assistant Chief, I&E, Northern Region, bears this Tom, Barb, Jan, Nancy, and Sheila in Yellowstone National Park, above Lamar Valley. bit of interesting information: BACK COUNTRY HORSEMEN OF MONTANA Seeing Yellowstone continued... 2013 CONVENTION REGISTARTION  e scenery from Specimen Ridge rivals anything in Bad luck is said to come in threes; unfortunately, for HOSTED BY BACK COUNTRY HORSEMEN OF THE FLATHEAD the Park – the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness to the Sheila, these words rang true. Somehow, her bear spray, north, Mt. Washburn to the south, and, at one place, located in a bottle holder attached to her horn saddlebag, Where It All Began an eagle view of Lamar Valley.  e majority of us were went o . Roy was not a ected, but Sheila got some on April 5 - 7, 2013 not interested in scaling Amethyst Mountain at the far her hands and without thinking, touched her face. She Red Lion Hotel eastern end of the trail. NPS has marked the trail with underwent an agonizing 45 minutes; there is nothing one 20 North Main Street posts, rock cairns and ugly orange markers, but bison and can do except to keep  ushing the areas with cold water. Room blocks until March 5 under Kalispell, Montana 59901 weather o en  atten the posts and topple the cairns. In  e next day it was back to Missoula with lots of good Back Country Horsemen at $79 (plus tax) per night (406) 751-5050 or (800) 733-5466 some cases, the game trails are more prominent and easily memories and lessons learned. Despite the challenges mistaken for the real trail. we had faced, there is nothing better than experiencing Convention Registration  e trail begins in sagebrush and grass meadows; then Yellowstone with good friends, while on the back of Name(s) ______Years in BCH______there is a steep ascent to the top of the ridge. Lone bull horses. My husband had to admit that a group of cowgirls bison were seen here and there as well as numerous small are, indeed, lots of fun. Chapter ______Are you a Delegate? (Circle) Yes / No herds of antelope. Various bones (elk and bison) and elk Photos courtesy Cherie Russell. antlers were scattered all along the trail. Address (Street, City, State, Zip) ______Telephone ______Email ______Travelogue: Riding & Packing Registration Fee (includes Sat. lunch and 40th Anniversary Banquet): in the Beautiful Convention Tickets Per Person Number of Tickets Total by Kathy Hundley, Selway-Pintler Wilderness Chapter BCHM Full Convention (paid by March 1) $75.00 X $ he Bitterroot Valley of southwest Montana has of a rugged trail. I have listed them from north to south, Late Full Convention (paid after March 1) $85.00 X $ some of the most varied resources for riding in our starting just south of Florence. Banquet dinner choice: (circle) Prime Rib, Stuffed Chicken Breast, Vegetarian Lasagna state.T From Florence to Darby, a distance of only 44 miles, backcountry seekers can experience at least two weeks- 1) Sweeney Creek – a four mile ride to Peterson Spouse and/or Guest Registration worth of riding. Lake; 2) Larry Creek – a beginner trail with a multitude of loop Spouse / Guest Name ______Spouse / Guest Name ______Instead of concentrating in detail on only one particular rides available; Bass Creek – a more rugged, rocky Spouse / Guest Name ______Spouse / Guest Name ______trail, I thought I would brie y highlight some of the trail that leads to Bass Lake; never-ending possibilities here in our neck of the woods. 3) Kootenai Creek – an approximately eight-mile ride; Guest Tickets Fee Number of Tickets Guest Total All these trails can be found on the Bitterroot National Forest North Half map. ( e Bitterroot National Forest 4) St. Mary s Lookout – a short, three-mile ride to a Saturday Lunch $14.00 X $ South Half map o ers an entire summer of riding in manned lookout with an incredible view; parking is Saturday 40th Anniversary Banquet $30.00 X $ new country on new trails). limited; Banquet dinner choice: (circle) Prime Rib, Stuffed Chicken Breast, Vegetarian Lasagna Rock Creek Horse Camp, located at Lake Como, just 5) Big Creek – a beautiful canyon and timber ride with north of Darby, is one of the most popular horse camps in landmarks such as Teepee Rocks, the Narrows, and a Total Registration Paid $ ______Big Lake at the top.  is trail can also be turned into the area. It is located only minutes from the lake and has hay bunks, hitching rails, and several slots where horses a nice pack trip with camp sites and grazing along the Please make checks payable Back Country Horsemen of the Flathead South Fork of Big Creek and at the lake itself.  e trail to BCHF and mail to: PO Box 1192 • Columbia Falls, MT 59912-1192 can be high lined. Unfortunately, it is also a popular campsite for boaters and everyday campers.  ere are circles the lake and continues into Idaho over Packbox Pass; OR fill in credit card info: several slots on reserve each day for horse use. From Memorial Day to Labor Day there is a user fee. 6) Bear Creek – another timbered canyon trail, excellent Visa or MC - - - Exp. Date in hot weather; mature trees and water leading to Signature 3-digit CVC  e thirteen trailsheads and associated trails listed Bryan Lake; another ride into the South Fork of Bear below represent easy rides–perfect for the novice or young Registration questions: Keni Hopkins (406) 892-7490 / [email protected] Creek is pristine and notably features western rider–and challenging rides for those who like the feel larch; Travelogue continued... Join us in celebrating 7) Fred Burr – a fairly easy  ve-mile ride into Fred Burr 11) Sawtooth – another favorite of mine, this pristine Reservoir; expect an amazing view; trail has limited horse use due to trail and camping challenges at Mile-5, Mile-8, and Mile-10; A hike to 8) Sheafman Creek – limited horse use due to poor Ingmar Lake is rewarded with great  shing; parking and switchback drive, but well worth it to see Back Country HorsemenW hereof Montana It All BeganApril 5, 6 and 7, 2013 2013 State Convention & Sheafman Lake and to ride a trail rarely travelled; 12) Lost Horse –  ere are several trails up this road; at the Red Lion Hotel 40th Anniversary Celebration in Kalispell, Montana Coyote Coulee is a nine-mile loop suitable for the 9) Mill Creek – gorgeous rock walls and an impressive novice; Twin Lakes & Fish Lake are at the top, but Schedule for the Weekend dam at Mill Lake;  is is rocky trail which passes beware  e road can be a bugger; South Fork of Lost Friday morning Saturday morning through burned areas from years past. Expect Horse – a pristine three-mile ride to a quaint little • State Board of Directors meeting 9:00 A.M. to 12:00 • Silent auction begins, and runs all day downfall; noon • A video history of the formation of the Back Country meadow along the stream, and  nally; Horsemen, narrated by the grandson of one of the Blodgett Canyon –one of my favorites, with epic rock Friday afternoon founders 10) 13) Lake Como –  ere are several day rides out of the walls, a rock arch formation at the pack bridge, some This year we are starting a new tradition at the • Panel discussion by BCH charter members “Why Horse Camp. A suitable pack trip along Rock Creek convention, we are having fun and exciting exhibits BCH needed to be formed,” moderated by Rick challenging areas of rock talus, waterfalls, and two trail follows the south side of the lake and leads to Elk Friday afternoon to give people a time to visit with Potts meadows for grazing and camping at Mile-7 and Mile- Lake and Bell Lake. friends that they only see a couple of times a year. Did you know that in 1973 there were plans to ban 9; Blodgett Lake is at Mile-11.  is is an easy pack horse use in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, trip with more riding over Blodgett Pass, whose trail Always do your homework; take a saw (I recommend a We will have the following free clinics: the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness and the Selway- At 1:00PM and again at 3:00PM- Bitter Root Wilderness? was newly constructed in 2012 (the US Forest Service 4-foot saddle saw) or an ax; and have fun • Are you ready to take your horse into the • Business meeting of the Back Country Horsemen of dynamited out a rock avalanche); backcountry? - free horse training seminar with Montana Kathy Valentine At 1:00PM- Saturday lunch • Maps and navigation by Robert Eversole • Lunch speaker, Mike McGlenn, Back Country At 3:00PM- Horsemen of America chairman • Wilderness first aid by former outfitter Bill Tidwell Saturday afternoon seminars From 1:00 PM to 5:00PM booths will be set up with the • GPS, map and compass reading by Robert Eversole following exhibits so everyone will be free to mingle • Presentation by LaSalle Equine Clinic around throughout the afternoon- • Cowboys of the open range by Stu Sorensen, • Packing demonstrations by veteran “Bob” packers veteran packer and historian • Plan a trip in the “Bob” with well-seasoned packers • Knife making, use, care and types of knives by Ed Langlois and Gary Dalen Steven Kelly • History and artifacts of the “Bob” with Stu Sorensen, who started packing in the Bob in 1964 Saturday evening • Rope splicing and knot tying; making manti and sling • Social hour with cash bar starts at 5:00 P.M. ropes with Charlie O’Leary • 40th anniversary of the Back Country Horsemen • Dutch oven cooking by back country chef Tug banquet 6:00-7:15PM Lieberman • Keynote speaker, Rick Potts, “Why Back Country • Alaska artifacts and dog sled stories by veteran Horsemen need to stay politically active” 7:15-8:00 musher Joe LaFieve PM • Many more exciting demonstrations • Live auction with auctioneer Joe Warner 8:15- 8:45PM. Among the many items are a set of bear Vendor booths will be set up by noon on Friday so proof boxes and a pallet of feed. you’ll have plenty of time to peruse their wares- • Silent auction closes and winners will be announced compare pack saddles, buy new tack, browse • Dance the night away to country music by Roy western art, etc. Wilhelm and the Ashley Creek Ramblers 9:00PM- 1:00AM Friday evening • Social hour with cash bar starting at 7:00 P.M. followed Sunday by bluegrass music with Roy Wilhelm and friends • Cowboy church 7:00AM from 8:00 P.M. to midnight or so • Presidents’ breakfast 8:00AM • Business meeting continues 9:00AM-12:00PM • State board meeting 12:00PM Blodgett Canyon from the pack bridge. Convention questions? Call Andy Breland at 261-1109 Travelogue continued... Join us in celebrating 7) Fred Burr – a fairly easy  ve-mile ride into Fred Burr 11) Sawtooth – another favorite of mine, this pristine Reservoir; expect an amazing view; trail has limited horse use due to trail and camping challenges at Mile-5, Mile-8, and Mile-10; A hike to 8) Sheafman Creek – limited horse use due to poor Ingmar Lake is rewarded with great  shing; parking and switchback drive, but well worth it to see Back Country HorsemenW hereof Montana It All BeganApril 5, 6 and 7, 2013 2013 State Convention & Sheafman Lake and to ride a trail rarely travelled; 12) Lost Horse –  ere are several trails up this road; at the Red Lion Hotel 40th Anniversary Celebration in Kalispell, Montana Coyote Coulee is a nine-mile loop suitable for the 9) Mill Creek – gorgeous rock walls and an impressive novice; Twin Lakes & Fish Lake are at the top, but Schedule for the Weekend dam at Mill Lake;  is is rocky trail which passes beware  e road can be a bugger; South Fork of Lost Friday morning Saturday morning through burned areas from years past. Expect Horse – a pristine three-mile ride to a quaint little • State Board of Directors meeting 9:00 A.M. to 12:00 • Silent auction begins, and runs all day downfall; noon • A video history of the formation of the Back Country meadow along the stream, and  nally; Horsemen, narrated by the grandson of one of the Blodgett Canyon –one of my favorites, with epic rock Friday afternoon founders 10) 13) Lake Como –  ere are several day rides out of the walls, a rock arch formation at the pack bridge, some This year we are starting a new tradition at the • Panel discussion by BCH charter members “Why Horse Camp. A suitable pack trip along Rock Creek convention, we are having fun and exciting exhibits BCH needed to be formed,” moderated by Rick challenging areas of rock talus, waterfalls, and two trail follows the south side of the lake and leads to Elk Friday afternoon to give people a time to visit with Potts meadows for grazing and camping at Mile-7 and Mile- Lake and Bell Lake. friends that they only see a couple of times a year. Did you know that in 1973 there were plans to ban 9; Blodgett Lake is at Mile-11.  is is an easy pack horse use in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, trip with more riding over Blodgett Pass, whose trail Always do your homework; take a saw (I recommend a We will have the following free clinics: the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness and the Selway- At 1:00PM and again at 3:00PM- Bitter Root Wilderness? was newly constructed in 2012 (the US Forest Service 4-foot saddle saw) or an ax; and have fun • Are you ready to take your horse into the • Business meeting of the Back Country Horsemen of dynamited out a rock avalanche); backcountry? - free horse training seminar with Montana Kathy Valentine At 1:00PM- Saturday lunch • Maps and navigation by Robert Eversole • Lunch speaker, Mike McGlenn, Back Country At 3:00PM- Horsemen of America chairman • Wilderness first aid by former outfitter Bill Tidwell Saturday afternoon seminars From 1:00 PM to 5:00PM booths will be set up with the • GPS, map and compass reading by Robert Eversole following exhibits so everyone will be free to mingle • Presentation by LaSalle Equine Clinic around throughout the afternoon- • Cowboys of the open range by Stu Sorensen, • Packing demonstrations by veteran “Bob” packers veteran packer and historian • Plan a trip in the “Bob” with well-seasoned packers • Knife making, use, care and types of knives by Ed Langlois and Gary Dalen Steven Kelly • History and artifacts of the “Bob” with Stu Sorensen, who started packing in the Bob in 1964 Saturday evening • Rope splicing and knot tying; making manti and sling • Social hour with cash bar starts at 5:00 P.M. ropes with Charlie O’Leary • 40th anniversary of the Back Country Horsemen • Dutch oven cooking by back country chef Tug banquet 6:00-7:15PM Lieberman • Keynote speaker, Rick Potts, “Why Back Country • Alaska artifacts and dog sled stories by veteran Horsemen need to stay politically active” 7:15-8:00 musher Joe LaFieve PM • Many more exciting demonstrations • Live auction with auctioneer Joe Warner 8:15- 8:45PM. Among the many items are a set of bear Vendor booths will be set up by noon on Friday so proof boxes and a pallet of feed. you’ll have plenty of time to peruse their wares- • Silent auction closes and winners will be announced compare pack saddles, buy new tack, browse • Dance the night away to country music by Roy western art, etc. Wilhelm and the Ashley Creek Ramblers 9:00PM- 1:00AM Friday evening • Social hour with cash bar starting at 7:00 P.M. followed Sunday by bluegrass music with Roy Wilhelm and friends • Cowboy church 7:00AM from 8:00 P.M. to midnight or so • Presidents’ breakfast 8:00AM • Business meeting continues 9:00AM-12:00PM • State board meeting 12:00PM Blodgett Canyon from the pack bridge. Convention questions? Call Andy Breland at 261-1109 BACK COUNTRY HORSEMEN OF MONTANA Seeing Yellowstone continued... 2013 CONVENTION REGISTARTION  e scenery from Specimen Ridge rivals anything in Bad luck is said to come in threes; unfortunately, for HOSTED BY BACK COUNTRY HORSEMEN OF THE FLATHEAD the Park – the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness to the Sheila, these words rang true. Somehow, her bear spray, north, Mt. Washburn to the south, and, at one place, located in a bottle holder attached to her horn saddlebag, Where It All Began an eagle view of Lamar Valley.  e majority of us were went o . Roy was not a ected, but Sheila got some on April 5 - 7, 2013 not interested in scaling Amethyst Mountain at the far her hands and without thinking, touched her face. She Red Lion Hotel eastern end of the trail. NPS has marked the trail with underwent an agonizing 45 minutes; there is nothing one 20 North Main Street posts, rock cairns and ugly orange markers, but bison and can do except to keep  ushing the areas with cold water. Room blocks until March 5 under Kalispell, Montana 59901 weather o en  atten the posts and topple the cairns. In  e next day it was back to Missoula with lots of good Back Country Horsemen at $79 (plus tax) per night (406) 751-5050 or (800) 733-5466 some cases, the game trails are more prominent and easily memories and lessons learned. Despite the challenges mistaken for the real trail. we had faced, there is nothing better than experiencing Convention Registration  e trail begins in sagebrush and grass meadows; then Yellowstone with good friends, while on the back of Name(s) ______Years in BCH______there is a steep ascent to the top of the ridge. Lone bull horses. My husband had to admit that a group of cowgirls bison were seen here and there as well as numerous small are, indeed, lots of fun. Chapter ______Are you a Delegate? (Circle) Yes / No herds of antelope. Various bones (elk and bison) and elk Photos courtesy Cherie Russell. antlers were scattered all along the trail. Address (Street, City, State, Zip) ______Telephone ______Email ______Travelogue: Riding & Packing Registration Fee (includes Sat. lunch and 40th Anniversary Banquet): in the Beautiful Bitterroot Valley Convention Tickets Per Person Number of Tickets Total by Kathy Hundley, Selway-Pintler Wilderness Chapter BCHM Full Convention (paid by March 1) $75.00 X $ he Bitterroot Valley of southwest Montana has of a rugged trail. I have listed them from north to south, Late Full Convention (paid after March 1) $85.00 X $ some of the most varied resources for riding in our starting just south of Florence. Banquet dinner choice: (circle) Prime Rib, Stuffed Chicken Breast, Vegetarian Lasagna state.T From Florence to Darby, a distance of only 44 miles, backcountry seekers can experience at least two weeks- 1) Sweeney Creek – a four mile ride to Peterson Spouse and/or Guest Registration worth of riding. Lake; 2) Larry Creek – a beginner trail with a multitude of loop Spouse / Guest Name ______Spouse / Guest Name ______Instead of concentrating in detail on only one particular rides available; Bass Creek – a more rugged, rocky Spouse / Guest Name ______Spouse / Guest Name ______trail, I thought I would brie y highlight some of the trail that leads to Bass Lake; never-ending possibilities here in our neck of the woods. 3) Kootenai Creek – an approximately eight-mile ride; Guest Tickets Fee Number of Tickets Guest Total All these trails can be found on the Bitterroot National Forest North Half map. ( e Bitterroot National Forest 4) St. Mary s Lookout – a short, three-mile ride to a Saturday Lunch $14.00 X $ South Half map o ers an entire summer of riding in manned lookout with an incredible view; parking is Saturday 40th Anniversary Banquet $30.00 X $ new country on new trails). limited; Banquet dinner choice: (circle) Prime Rib, Stuffed Chicken Breast, Vegetarian Lasagna Rock Creek Horse Camp, located at Lake Como, just 5) Big Creek – a beautiful canyon and timber ride with north of Darby, is one of the most popular horse camps in landmarks such as Teepee Rocks, the Narrows, and a Total Registration Paid $ ______Big Lake at the top.  is trail can also be turned into the area. It is located only minutes from the lake and has hay bunks, hitching rails, and several slots where horses a nice pack trip with camp sites and grazing along the Please make checks payable Back Country Horsemen of the Flathead South Fork of Big Creek and at the lake itself.  e trail to BCHF and mail to: PO Box 1192 • Columbia Falls, MT 59912-1192 can be high lined. Unfortunately, it is also a popular campsite for boaters and everyday campers.  ere are circles the lake and continues into Idaho over Packbox Pass; OR fill in credit card info: several slots on reserve each day for horse use. From Memorial Day to Labor Day there is a user fee. 6) Bear Creek – another timbered canyon trail, excellent Visa or MC - - - Exp. Date in hot weather; mature trees and water leading to Signature 3-digit CVC  e thirteen trailsheads and associated trails listed Bryan Lake; another ride into the South Fork of Bear below represent easy rides–perfect for the novice or young Registration questions: Keni Hopkins (406) 892-7490 / [email protected] Creek is pristine and notably features western rider–and challenging rides for those who like the feel larch; Seeing Yellowstone continued... Mules of the Remount - A Legend Is Born by Peyton Moncure, Forest History Society Yellowstone; in northern Yellowstone there were two of these – Soda Butte and Slough ineteen  irty was a good year in the Northern It was at the Remount Depot that a delegation of United Creek. NRegion. Good because, among other reasons, that Nations foresters stayed for several days and nights as part It was drizzling at 7:00 the next morning year saw the beginning of a colorful project that became of their educational  eld trips to forestry-oriented projects when we headed out to Soda Butte. Nancy closely identi ed with the U.S. Forest Service—the in various parts of the world.  ese foreign foresters, and Barb s certi ed weed-free hay, which establishment of the Remount Depot with a promising most of who could speak very little or no English, were was on top of the trailer, had to be bagged program involving pack mules and saddle horses. an interesting group. One of the highlights of their stay here was the capture of a bothersome black bear in a before they would be granted permission to Here, in a beautiful location up Ninemile Creek about enter the Park.  e Park Service supplied bacon-baited bear trap made of a large culvert.  e most 30 miles from Regional headquarters in Missoula, Region interested observed was a German forester, a "Baron" the plastic bags; Tom supplied the muscle. 1 began the acquiring and breeding of superior pack We were asked if we had a recent (within something-or-other, who was so fascinated by the bear mules and saddle horses which were to have a special that the rest of his colleagues immediately dubbed him a year) Coggins Test certi cate and Brand destiny. Here would be headquartered the elite in pack Vista of Lamar Valley from the Specimen Ridge Trail. "Smokey Baron," and the name stuck with him. Inspection. At Soda Butte, the parking lot and riding stock especially developed for the western was  lled with wolf watchers, some illegally mountains; and here would take place their training for  e Remount and its pack strings took part in some of hilltops, there are scenic vistas of the Lamar River. Cache parked in Stock Trailers Only spots. A ranger soon the important role of transporting freight in the rugged the  lming of "Red Skies of Montana," by 20th Century Creek is the next ford, and while doable in September, arrived and remedied that. A pack of wolves was feeding forests of the Region, hauling supplies to  re lines, Fox. Incidentally, it was on a motorcycle ride between the earlier in the summer it may be too deep and swi to on a bison carcass not far from the trail. By the time we servicing lookouts, transporting construction materials Remount Depot and Missoula that the originally chosen cross safely, even on horses. Very close to the ford on tacked up, the wolves were  nished and had moved on. into back country Ranger Stations and spike camps.  is star, Victor Mature, was involved in a wreck that landed this creek, there is a stock campground. Much to our  e clouds had also given way to bright sunshine. was the "Time of the Mule."  is would be transportation him in a Missoula hospital for a time with a broken leg. dismay there were several llamas tethered in camp about with a capital "T". A er that happened the movie company packed up and  ere was still an obstacle to overcome; a herd of bison 100 yards away, staring at us with their unblinking and went home to Hollywood, but were back the next summer was sprawled across the trail. Bison are unpredictable, piercing eyes, while standing as motionless as boulders Begun in 1930, phased out in 1954, the Ninemile for another try at  lming the movie. ( e  nal version especially the bulls during rutting season. Slowly and along the trail. Remount Depot saw history made, saw colorful characters was shot the following year with Richard Widmark as the cautiously, we made a wide berth of the herd, while both and colorful events, saw the passing of the mule era with  e next day we again le at the crack of dawn to ride star.) humans and horses kept watchful eyes on the noisy herd. the great pack strings, witnessed the coming of the "Tin the Specimen Ridge Trail from west to east.  e day Goose"—Ford Tri-motor whose ilk was responsible, in It was during the late 1930s that a  eet of three giant Lamar River Trail starts out open, wide, and covered before, we had scouted a small parking area, located about the  nal analysis, for the demise of the Remount Depot. "transporters" for mules came into existence—giant with sage and grass. Much of this area was burned to a mile from Tower Junction, and across the road from the In between these dates, the Remount Depot and its stock bodies built onto Kenworth chassis, each capable of varying degrees in the  res of 1988. A er fording Soda trailhead. It was large enough to park a few horse trailers neighborhood partner, the Winter Range near Perma, saw carrying an entire pack string and its lead saddle horse. Butte Creek, the trail crosses high meadows with copses of if there were no vehicles already randomly parked. We such events as the Forest Service " eld days"—exhibitions  ese 10-animal trucks had 10 wheels, the four sets of trees and climbs up and over several side hills. From these arrived early enough to secure spots for our trailers. put on for the public during which anyone could partake rear dual wheels being driven by tandem drive sha , of a barbecue lunch for twenty- ve cents, could watch and were planned and developed at the Forest Service packers load and show their pack strings in action, and Engineering Shop in Missoula by Dave Pronovost, the could watch rodeo-type displays of bronc riding, lassoing, blacksmith in charge of the stock. Frequently during the and other skills expected on a working stock ranch.  re season these green behemoths—sometimes all three in a caravan—would pass through Missoula loaded with During these  eld days of the 1930s and 1940s, Dave mules on their way to a  re, many pedestrians stopping to Pronovost, the Forest Service blacksmith, demonstrated gaze at the thrilling sight of the unusual travelers whose how the toughest and most stubborn of mules could be heads and necks extended above the solid metal truck shod e ciently and without injury to either blacksmith or racks. mule. It was during the early 1940s that Pronovost became known as the "Flying Blacksmith" when the Forest Service Many of the "old-timers" who were associated with started  ying him into Big Prairie on the Flathead to shoe the Remount Depot during its heyday have died, and the large number of mules kept there during the summer. information and photographs are not as complete as could He attained a record of 34 horses and mules shod in one be desired. But an old letter written by E. Arnold Hanson, day. Assistant Chief, I&E, Northern Region, bears this Tom, Barb, Jan, Nancy, and Sheila in Yellowstone National Park, above Lamar Valley. bit of interesting information: Mules of the Remount continued... Seeing Yellowstone on a Horse by Cherie Russell, Missoula Chapter BCHM For your own personal information, you might be Yes, "those were the days." And then it was over.  e interested to know that during the time the Remount Depot airplane had won. Planes could drop cargo by parachute n early Spring 2011, BCH member Sheila Getty and I shrouded road along the side of a mountain. It was a was in operation, we raised Morgan, American Saddler, onto a  re so much faster than a mule could deliver it. put our heads together to organize a trip to northern painstakingly slow drive but we  nally located the turno , and oroughbred horses. Heavy-grade brood mares were And fewer lookout stations needed to be supplied by pack YellowstoneI National Park with our horses. Several a road recently carved out of the forest. At the end crossed with jacks, which in turn were crosses between strings—helicopters could do the job now. In fact, the months later, on a beautiful September day, six of us was a beautiful clearing, brightly lit by the full moon; Spanish and Mammoth breeds to produce the mules we airplane was even beginning to phase out the lookouts started an incredible adventure. My husband, Tom, was the gurgling and bubbling sounds of running water needed for our  re strings. At one time there were ten pack themselves.  e  re-spotting plane could do the job better the only male in the group; …to provide the muscle, he pinpointed the near-by stream and the several corrals strings at the Remount Depot utilized almost exclusively for and cheaper. mused. Others in the group consisted of Nancy Stoverud, were there waiting for our horses. Our poor horses – they  re suppression work. e Depot was abandoned primarily Barb Jennings and Jan Sousa. had been in the trailers for twelve hours. as an economy measure, but also because of our increasing  e words "Remount Depot," "Winter Range," use of aircra in forest  re control and the constantly "mules," and "pack string" were fast fading from use.  e Campgrounds at Yellowstone, unless in the We planned to ride into the Absaroka Beartooth increasing number of miles of road in the Region, which cut times—in the words of a certain folksinger—"they were backcountry, prohibit stock; thus, we had to stay outside Wilderness during the  rst two days and these trailheads down our need for pack stock. a-changing." the Park. We opted for Timber Camp in the Gallatin were near-by. A er a leisurely breakfast, we saddled up But a legend was being born. National Forest, seven miles from Gardiner.  e ranger and headed to Knox Lake (aka Castle Lake).  e trail was said …it was our best bet, as there were corrals, water, steep and rocky but Knox Lake is located in the middle of With permission from the Forest History Society: http://www.foresthistory.org/ASPNET/Publications/region/1/ plenty of grazing and lots of room for trailers. I was a very large mountain meadow hemmed in by mountains early_days/4/contents.htm assured that the dirt road, even though it turned into one jutting up to meet the azure sky.  ere were fresh grizzly Tribulation lane past the teeny hamlet of Jardine, would accommodate bear and wolf tracks along the shore. long trailers. People do it all the time, she added. A couple of hours into the drive, a  at tire on Sheila s trailer On the return trip, Roy, Sheila s horse, stumbled and along I-90 delayed almost went down. our ETA at Timber  ere was a 2 Camp; however, nail embedded it allowed Tom in his right front to provide his hoof; it took muscle. Barb s Leatherman and many tries Night had before it was fallen when we extracted.  ere  nally pulled was no blood and into Gardiner a horse medical and headed for kit provided Timber Camp. the means to Finding a strange immediately treat campground at it. Lamar River Trail terrain makes is easy to buchwhack. night has always topped my list of  ings to Avoid. On the other side We decided to change our campsite for our Yellowstone of Jardine was a ninety-degree turn onto a very narrow rides.  e president of the Gardiner Rodeo Association and old wooden bridge with very little wiggle room for allowed us to use the rodeo grounds north of town to set maneuvering the trailers. We provided entertainment for up camp.  ere was no charge, but we gave a generous a few Jardine residents who could be seen peering out donation.  ere were plenty of corrals and hoses for their windows through parted curtains. water, plus a large parking lot. A er everyone safely maneuvered their vehicles over We selected two trails to ride – the Lamar River Trail the bridge, we thought it would be just a few minutes to and the Specimen Ridge Trail. A park ranger told us that Craig Edwards is a farmer and  ne art photographer from the Northcentral Montana town of Big Sandy. His work can be seen at the Lost Timber Camp. We were all eagerly anticipating Barb s we could park in most pull-o s for the day.  ere were Woodsman Gallery in Lincoln, the Two Rivers Gallery in Big Timber, the S. Jenkins Fine Art Gallery in Butte, and in Big Sandy Jambalaya and a glass or two of wine.  e full moon also certain trailheads that provided overnight at the Bear Paw Deli and Miscellanea Antiques. He will also be showing at the Western Heritage Art Show in Great Falls during parking for out tters packing into the interior of Russell Week, March 13-17. did little to assist driving the narrow, curvy and tree Mission Valley continued...

to cross.  is involved packing in supplies such as water commitment to making trail riding-safe. While this type bars, gravel, a culvert and required tools. of agreement was unique and pro table, it is not what drives the spirit of volunteerism with this group. Since its  is agreement brought $22,000 to the Mission inception,  e Mission Valley BCH has done projects very Valley Back Country Horsemen for their expertise and much like these in many locations. Upper Clark Fork From the Saddlebag Back Country Horsemen Annual Fun Ride-Saturday, July 13th His father rode sitting forward slightly in Gold Creek, MT the saddle, holding the reins in one hand about two inches above the saddle horn…  e boy who rode on slightly before him sat a horse not only as if he d been born to it which he was but as if were he begot by malice or mischance into some queer land where horses never were he would have found them anyway. Would have known that there was something missing for the world to be right or he right in it and would have set forth to wander wherever it was needed for as long as it took until he came upon one and he would have know that that was what he sought and it would have Come Join Us!! Ride a well-marked trail with been. your own group at your own pace. Special prizes –Cormac McCarthy, All the Pretty Horses and BBQ after the ride. Free camping available. Questions?-Call Wade Murphy at (406) 431-1717 or visit: www.bchmt.org/clarkfork/BCHfunridefl yer2013.pdf Backcountry... Can It be De ned 2012 Mission Valley BCH Completed ree-Year Work by Kathy Hundley, Selway-Pintler Wilderness BCHM Project with Forest Service s your de nition of backcountry the same as the I think backcountry is just a few minutes from town, by David Crawford & Carol Madden, Mission Valley Chapter BCHM person riding the trail beside you Is it the same where there are no houses, and I can hike with my dogs, asI a co-worker, family member, a stranger passing by trail ride and ski. I feel like I am out in the woods and he Mission Valley Back Country Horsemen or someone you know who lives in another state  e I can t hear anything but the wind and wildlife…no Tkicked o a work agreement with the answer is, Probably not. vehicles. Some argue this is front country. Can you US Forest Service in 2009. In cooperation with de ne the di erence Carole Johnson of the Superior Ranger District, it  e Mirriam Webster Dictionary de nes backcountry was agreed that the club would complete regular as: noun: a rural region that forms the edge of the settled One friend said that if you ride the trail and get so far and special trail improvements to bene t all who or developed part of a country; For example, He took in that you have to make camp, that is backcountry. In use the back country trail system.  ere were a month s supplies and headed out to the backcountry. other words, it is a pack trip. So, you want to go on a pack four projects worked on over a period of three Synonyms–backcountry, backland(s), backwater, trip into the wilderness– get away from it all–and the years. Regular maintenance of these trails occurs wilderness boundary begins at the trailhead, right where backwoods, bush, hinterland, outback, outlands, up- every year, while the special improvements were you just drove to with your truck and horse trailer; is it all country; Related Words–boonies, boondocks, country, completed on an as-needed basis. backcountry, maybe countryside, sticks.  e  rst project was the River Trail that runs 13 High school students Several years ago, while One thing we can all probably agree on is that our comments included: miles, from St. Regis down the Clark Fork River driving home from our backcountry here in Montana and in the other Rocky deep trails way back, to Ferry Landing at the St. Regis cut-o highway, Back Country Horsemen of Mountain States is a lot bigger and wilder than it is somewhere where you situated between Hwy 200 and I90 to the north. Montana State Convention, around the rest of the country. can feel disconnected from  e work consisted of clearing and brushing trails my friends and I got into an society. One student de ned and reconstructing areas in the shale rock slides interesting discussion on what backcountry as, anywhere my cell phone won t work for trail passage in several di erent locations. the de nition of the word backcountry. To my surprise, Students also felt that it was a feeling.  eir perceptions Gravel and supplies were placed at the trail head the answers, though at times similar, were more o en seem largely to be de ned by where and how they and packed in by volunteers. Barbed wire was very di erent.  is raised my curiosity so I began to ask were raised. Students born in Montana tend to de ne packed out to promote safety for those who use everyone what their de nition of backcountry was, even backcountry as trails way back. Students who moved the trail. my students in school. I thought I knew exactly what it here from larger cities consider areas right around town as meant to me, but a er these discussions, I m not so sure  e second project was the Boyd Mountain backcountry. anymore. My conclusion is that the term backcountry trail, located two miles west of St. Regis, between represents more a feeling than a geographical area. One thing we can all probably agree on is that our I-90 and Camel s Hump Road.  is project backcountry here in Montana and in the other Rocky consisted of clearing and brushing the trail that We all know the de nition of wilderness, but have Mountain States is a lot bigger and wilder than it is around runs to the top of Boyd Mountain. you ever de ned backcountry for yourself, as a Back the rest of the country. Country Horseman Does your idea of the backcountry  e third project was the  ompson Creek have to mean wilderness, or can it be the patch of woods Yes, wilderness is de nitely backcountry, but what about Trail, located outside Superior.  is 10-mile behind your house that takes you away from civilization the rest of the United States Don t you imagine that the trail had not been regularly maintained and this and the pressures of your everyday life, even for just an de nition of backcountry for the Back Country Horsemen was the  rst time the Mission Valley BCH had hour or two. Following are some of the answers I heard. Arizona and New Mexico would include desert; for the performed clean-up.  is took the club six days See if any of these de nitions are the same for you. Ponder Back Country Horsemen of Florida, backcountry would to complete in the  rst year, due to the amount of the dilemma of a concrete de nition. include swampland; and for the Back Country Horsemen steep terrain and downfall in the area. of Michigan, Indiana and Illinois, it would include rolling For some, backcountry has to be roadless–similar to hillsides covered with hardwoods and cedars  e fourth project completed was the Flat Rock wilderness. It s a place that you can only get to on foot or Trail west of St. Regis.  is ten-mile trail runs by horseback. Does that mean that the 15 miles of Forest One thing is for sure; backcountry is global And, it s up from Twelve Mile Creek, on Camel s Hump Road, Service road lined with alpine, spruce and  r you just to us to continue using it wisely and preserve it for future to the top of the Continental Divide on Tamarack drove at 10 mph, pulling your horse trailer to get to the generations. Backcountry is beautiful, wild, precious trailhead for your  ve-day pack trip into the wilderness, is and humbling. It s the place we Back Country Horsemen Creek Road.  e work completed the  rst two NOT backcountry Hmmm want–no, need– to keep our inner spirits alive and well years consisted of cleaning and brushing the trails.  e third year two turnpikes were built to make dangerous mud bogs safer Letter from the Chair continued... Backcountry continued... We know of our accomplishments over the past 40 volunteer time improving our trails.  e next 40 is what years. What will the next 40 years look like I am sure we make of it. I predict Back Country Horsemen of when Ken and company started this organization long Montana will exceed a million hours by then. ago, they could not have imagined it would build to a state-wide organization that logged 256,000 hours of Mark Himmel

Volunteer Hours

21000

19000 17000

15000 13000

11000 Volunteer Hours Tin Cup Lake near Darby, 11 miles from trailhead: backcountry …a e Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall Wilderness: Undeniably de nite YES backcountry. 9000

7000

5000 3000 1000 We all know the de nition of wilderness, 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 but have you ever de ned backcountry Extrapolating from known volunteer hours in 1974 to tracked hours beginning in 2002, Back Country for yourself, as a Back Country Horseman Horsemen of Montana have conservatively dedicated over a quarter-million volunteer hours and improved innumerable trails.

ere are many things in Western culture that are admirable. But a culture that alienates itself from the ground of its own being–from the wilderness outside ... and from that wilderness, the wilderness within–is doomed to very destructive behavior, ultimately perhaps, self-destructive behavior.

–Gary Snyder– Turtle Island, 1969

BCH of MT Contacts Chairman Mark Himmel National Directors Dave Crawford 406.771.0809 406.675.4293 [email protected] [email protected]

Vice-Chairman Connie Long Chuck Miller 406.543.0528 406.961.5453 [email protected] [email protected]

Treasurer Sandy Taylor (Alternate) John Chepulis Painted Rocks Lake on West Fork Road: backcountry view, but alas, some Lake Como, a popular swimming, boating &  shing lake with stock trails 406.842.7843 406.322.4823 would say NO because of the road and bridge. all around; looks like backcountry, but only minutes from the town of [email protected] [email protected] Darby …some would say NO.

Secretary Nancy Pollman State Newsletter Editor Noorjahan Parwana For me, and for thousands with similar inclinations, the most important passion of life is the overpowering desire 406.546.6492 406.782.3682 to escape periodically from the churches of a mechanistic civilization. To us the enjoyment of solitude, complete [email protected] [email protected] independence, and the beauty of unde led panoramas is absolutely essential to happiness. —Bob Marshall Back Country Horsemen of Montana NONPROFIT ORG PO Box 4864 U.S. POSTAGE PAID Butte, MT 59701 BUTTE MT Decker PERMIT NO 593 Dispatch

February 2013 www.bchmt.org Letter from the Chair Mark Himmel, Chairman, BCH Montana

or the Back Country Horsemen of Montana have probably FChairman s removed a million trees blocking the trail and letter this time I installed half that many water bars in our quest to wanted to talk about improve the trail and lessen the impact of our use. the 40th anniversary for BCH coming I calculated that between 1974 and up, without repeating what has today, using conservative numbers, already been said. Something Montana s Back Country Horsemen new or di erent  ere are not contributed 256,000 volunteer hours. many topics we haven t touched upon. With that much time accumulated, it s Montana Back Country Horsemen State Chapters In a discussion with Charlie O Leary, the idea of reviewing Back hard to imagine that a trail exists in the forest that we have not spent time on at Beartooth Bitterroot Cabinet Charlie Russell Country Horsemen volunteer hours over the years came up as a topic that PO Box 614 PO Box 1083 PO Box 949 PO Box 3563 might be of interest to our membership. It s a topic speci cally related to some point. Back Country Horsemen Absorakee, MT 59001 Hamilton, MT 59840 Libby, MT 59923 Great Falls, MT 59404 Montana which I am almost sure we have not discussed. Digging around, of Montana have probably removed we could only come up with documentation for the last ten years. I took a million trees blocking the trail and East Slope Flathead Gallatin Valley Hi-Line on the task of creating a graph that  lls in the missing thirty years. installed half that many water bars 307 N Main PO Box 1192 PO Box 3232 PO Box 1379 in our quest to improve the trail and Conrad, MT 59425 Columbia Falls, MT 59912 Bozeman, MT 59772 Cut Bank, MT 59427 Ken Ausk informed me that back in 1974, in their  rst year, the lessen the impact of our use. Flathead Chapter put in over 1000 hours of volunteer time. (I can t Judith Basin Last Chance Mile High Mission Valley We ride the forest for many di erent PO Box 93 PO Box 4008 PO Box 4434 PO Box 604 imagine coming up with the idea of Back Country Horsemen one year, Lewistown, MT 59457 Helena, MT 59601 Butte, MT 59702 Ronan, MT 59864 then rising to that level of challenge the next. Heck In 1974, I was still in reasons; whether it s trail clearing, high school). pack support for a trail crews, or Missoula Selway-Pintler Wilderness  ree Rivers Upper Clark Fork simply venturing out there and PO Box 2121 PO Box 88 PO Box 251 PO Box 725 Ok – Back to the graph. looking to make a di erence. One Missoula, MT 59806 Hamilton, MT 59840 Dillon, MT 59725 Deer Lodge, MT 59722 Back Country Horsemen of Montana Mission Statement horseman makes a little dent in the • Perpetuate the common sense use and enjoyment of America s back country and tasks ahead. As a chapter, with quite a Wild Horse Plains wilderness. PO Box 398 • Work to ensure that public lands remain open to recreational stock use. few horsemen, we can conquer many • Assist various agencies responsible for the maintenance and management of public challenges. As a state organization, Plains, MT 59859 If you would like to join, please contact a chapter in your area. lands. • Educate, encourage, and solicit active participation in the wise and sustained use there is no challenge that we of the back country by horsemen and the general public, commensurate with our heritage. can t overcome. • Foster and encourage formation of new Back Country Horsemen organizations. 40th Anniversary Commemorative Order Form 40th Anniversary Commemorative Shirts and Cap

NameWhere ______It All Began Address ______Sport-Tek Ladies 1/4 Zip Sweatshirt City______State______Zip______A stylish feminine fi t and fl atlock stitching details. ☐ ☐ Phone______A rib knit cadet Checkcollar. included Visa or MC Colorfast with minimal shrinkage. Please fill out one paper 9-ouncefor EACH 60/40 item ring ordered spun combed cotton/poly Mail to: BCHF, PO Box 1192, Columbia Falls, MT 59912Rib knit collar and cuffs All items will have the Back Country Horsemen AnniversaryTwill-tapered Logo neck Deadline to order is February 28, 2013. Set-in sleeves Open hem Item - please circle one Size Color Sport-Tek 1/4 Zip Men’s Sweatshirt Women'sHaines Snap Nano-T Shirt Cottonwith T-shirt☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL ☐ Khaki ☐ embroidered4.5-ounce logo100% $50 combed ring spun Athletic cut, colorfast with minimalRed shrinkage. cotton (preshrunk) 9-ounce 60/40 ring spun combed cotton/poly Men's Snap Shirt with ☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL ☐ 2XL ☐LT ☐XLT ☐ Chocolate Brown Twill-tapered neck embroidered logo $45 ☐ ☐ Burgundy Women’s 2XLT Set-in sleeves Set-in rib knit collar with double-needle Rib Knit cuffs and waistband ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ ☐ Women's Sweatcoverstitching Shirt with at neck XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL Navy ☐ embroideredContoured Logo and side$38 seamed for a Roper Women’s Long Sleeve Charcoal Heather classic feminine fi t Men's Sweatshirt with ☐ XS ☐S ☐SolidM ☐ LWestern ☐XL ☐2XL Snap ☐3XL Shirt ☐4XL ☐ Navy embroidered Logo $38 ☐5XL 100% Cotton ☐ Charcoal Heather Men’s Two snap-fl ap pockets Shoulder-to-shoulder taping Twill Cap with embroidered ☐ One size adjustableOne point front yokes ☐ Twill with Navy Narrow rib knit collar without overseam Variegated snaps Logo $15 ☐ Black with Camo Shoulder slightly rolled forward Two snap cuffs Contemporary fi t Women's T-shirt silk screen ☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL Drysdales Men’s☐ Sand Long Sleeve ☐ logo $20 Twill Shirt Denim Blue Men's T-shirt silk screen logo ☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL 100%☐ Cotton Sand Spread collar $20 ☐ Denim Blue Port & Company Two-Tone Pigment-Dyed Cap Snap-button closure 100% cottonAmount twill Two snap-fl ap pockets Low profi le, unstructured Front and back western yokes ItemsSelf-fabric available for adjustable pick up at slidethe closureShipping with brass $6.00 buckle per itemand grommet convention. If you are not attendingKhaki/Navy ☐ Total number of items to be picked up or shipped. One please include shipping costs. item per sheet. Port Authority Cotton Waxed Cap with Camoufl age Brim We will do our best to order the100% items cotton you twillrequest. Because each item is custom made we cannot allow any returns or exchanges.Medium Limited profi availability. le, lightly Thank structured you for understanding. Self-fabric adjustable slide closure with buckle See order form Camo/Black Visa or MC# - - - Exp.and Date color choices Signature 3 digit CVC on back  40th Anniversary Commemorative Order Form

Name ______

Address ______

City______State______Zip______

Phone______☐ Check included ☐ Visa or MC

Please fill out one paper for EACH item ordered Mail to: BCHF, PO Box 1192, Columbia Falls, MT 59912 All items will have the Back Country Horsemen Anniversary Logo Deadline to order is February 28, 2013.

Item - please circle one Size Color

Women's Snap Shirt with ☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL ☐ Khaki embroidered logo $50 ☐ Red

Men's Snap Shirt with ☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL ☐ 2XL ☐LT ☐XLT ☐ Chocolate Brown embroidered logo $45 ☐2XLT ☐ Burgundy

Women's Sweat Shirt with ☐ XS ☐S ☐M ☐L ☐XL ☐2XL ☐3XL ☐4XL ☐ Navy embroidered Logo $38 ☐ Charcoal Heather

Men's Sweatshirt with ☐ XS ☐S ☐M ☐L ☐XL ☐2XL ☐3XL ☐4XL ☐ Navy embroidered Logo $38 ☐5XL ☐ Charcoal Heather

Twill Cap with embroidered ☐ One size adjustable ☐ Twill with Navy Logo $15 ☐ Black with Camo

Women's T-shirt silk screen ☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL ☐ Sand logo $20 ☐ Denim Blue

Men's T-shirt silk screen logo ☐ S ☐ M ☐ L ☐ XL ☐ Sand $20 ☐ Denim Blue

Amount

Items available for pick up at the Shipping $6.00 per item convention. If you are not attending ☐ Total number of items to be picked up or shipped. One please include shipping costs. item per sheet.

We will do our best to order the items you request. Because each item is custom made we cannot allow any returns or exchanges. Limited availability. Thank you for understanding.

Visa or MC# - - - Exp. Date

Signature 3 digit CVC