TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT FOR GROOM

Hugo de Juana

TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

© Hugo de Juana 2017 Thank you to Rebecca Pickard (Source Studio) for helping me with translation

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TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations! I understand that If you are reading this eBook it is probably because you get soon married and you need some advice or at least to confirm your previous ideas concerning the apparel for your wedding.

Far from trying to be a ceremony wear treaty, this modest book offers direct tips to help you choosing the most suitable garment for your style and features. It is structured in a decalogue of brief and direct advices, that you can read in a single session, and surely it will help you to focus better your goals.

These recommendations have been gathered from an extensive experience of my family, with many years successfully advising the most demanding customers and of course grooms, in the shops of Javier de Juana, President of the Club de Sastres de España (grouping that meets the most outstanding Spanish Master ), knowledge that in turn we have translated from one generation to another.

I invite you to read them and after that submitting them to your consideration, because I understand that is living and should not be dictated. Reach an agreement between them and your personal tastes to transmit your own style and personality in the most important day for you.

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Hugo de Juana TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

1. DEFINE THE STYLE OF WEDDING YOU PREFER

The first great decision you should take with your partner is the style of wedding you like because it will determine the sort of garment that will be worn by groom and wedding guests.

If you like a formal or traditional wedding style, the morning will be the most adequate both in summer and winter, provided its condition of daytime code garment. If you prefer a more casual or sophisticated style, opt for a formal suit or even a coat.

Nowadays, there is great freedom so with independency of the style chosen, be sure to feel elegant and flattered with your look as that day you will be the sharp focus. As Hardy Amies used to assert “A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them”.

FORMAL WEDDING (FORMAL ATTIRE) - MORNING COAT are admitted. Cutting can be single or double breasted and with 6 they look great. The morning coat is one of the most renowned garments of the Pants should be formal striped with and never cuffed. men’s attire and the most Exceptionally, with mid morning coat, pants can be of the same adequate for daytime , colour than and . It is worn preferably with braces and which takes place before 6 PM or without loops. with sunlight. The afternoon dress code garment is the , It is worn with a flower in the and white pocket square. The although is discouraged for that traditionally was made of or shiny fur is today in disuse, , unless the take place as it obligates excessively to guests and it is preferable to keep it for very late. The tuxedo, although more ludic events like Ascot races. The same can be applied to gloves. very commonly used in various must be black, in tafilete or fine boxcalf and lace-up. countries, is a garment and

not adequate for weddings. INFORMAL WEDDING - (INFORMAL ATTIRE) - SUIT There was a time (mid XIX century) when the morning coat was a daily Far from what the concept “informal attire” seems to suggest, this dress garment and its design was slightly code requires the use of suit, not accepting other less formal stylings different to the current one, as it like the combination of jacket and , elegant but not strict. Morning Coat had been thought for horse riding so the tails do not result Until the 30’s, when the use of suit was consolidated as the office uncomfortable to the horseman, when he had the feet inside the working attire, people used to wear tailcoat, and then stirrups. morning coat, reserving the use of suit for less formal occasions

Today it should be black or dark grey with a single to tie and with The origin of suit is located in under a concept of elegance peak . In summer the mid grey is accepted although the most based on following the dress codes imposed by the dominant classes. suitable is still the black one. There is even and old dress code rule, With posteriority, it has been influenced by the Italian concepts of which indicates that only the groom and viscounts should go in grey and elegance more subordinated to aesthetics. the rest of the guests should wear in black. Nowadays, we can choose the best of both currents and there are no Traditionally the waistcoat was Pearl grey, light beige or of the same such strict codes, so a new world of possibilities for wedding opens color than the coat, in which case, some fabric ribbons are stitched in up. Nevertheless, the wedding suit “codes” are different from the the neck and they are usually white in summer. Today, coloured working suit ones and it is convenient to know them to focus better your choice.

PAGE 4 TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

2. LOOK FOR STYLE INSPIRATION

A good starting point can be to browse magazines, search in the Internet grooms’ photos that you like, and even can carry and show them to your so he can better interpret the image you want to convey.

Those pictures will give you clues about cutting styles, combinations, ideal lengths, fittings and additional orientation about how to wear the garments and accessories. I am referring to for example, how to tie the tie, put a pocket square, and what accessories to choose, etc… essential details that we usually don’t give the due importance to.

With the exception of some popular magazines, the majority Italian, and some websites, there are not many sources, so to make this research effort easier for you, we have created an “Inspiration Gallery” with many different suit and ceremony proposals, which I suggest you to visit. You can access in www.xelectia.com , ¡Don’t miss it!.

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Javier de Juana TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

3. MAKE YOUR SUIT WITH A WELL KNOWN PROFFESIONAL

Today there are a lot of valid Prét â Porter options and however, our clients insist on emphasizing this tip as one of the most valuable, due to the fact that a well-made bespoke suit will bring you benefits that are widely superior to the difference in price:

 First, achieves a perfect fit without shortfalls in movements. That is because in tailoring, the garment is fitted over the client’s shoulder, so it settles down in morphological valleys and not in crests like the Prét â Porter, which to be sold to many people, act as “boxes able to contain many sort of different bodies”. In bespoke tailoring shoulders, sleeves and fronts lines are “more rounded” and the neckline is low slendering the figure.

 A suit designed for you will not remain indifferent to anyone because it will emphasize your strengths and conceal your defects or weaknesses. For that purpose, we study aspects like the most flattering width of shoulders or lapels for you, total lengths, height of pockets, fittings, etc… with special attention to “create volumes”, what results in garments which “produce sensations” of great comfort and assurance, considerably increasing the service life of the garments that can be estimated in an average of 10 years.

 Moreover, you will be able to customize and imprime your personal touch. Especially interesting are the sutile details, hardly perceivable to the naked eye, that are present but need a closer look to the suit to be really detected. For example, a different color in collar felt, special linings, and chest pocket slightly more slanted, different colour of a sleeve or your initials embroidered in some specific place.

Unlike the , the groom counts with the advantage of having chances to wear again the suit with posteriority to the wedding, which contributes to reaffirm the investment although the suit don’t be used daily. Every man should have at least one representative suit in the .

Choosing a well-known professional, who works with maximum standards of quality will ensure your success. The Club de Sastres de España (“Tailors of Club”) is formed by the sartorial quintessence of our country. I invite you to contact any of its master tailors that you can see in www.clubdesastres.com.

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4. MAKE IT DIFFERENT FROM YOUR DAILY SUITS

While it is true that you will be able to reuse the suit after the wedding, we recommend to distinguish it from a “daily working suit”. Mind that a ceremony suit has a less functional goal and its intentionality is more aesthetic, so aspects like result flattering in video and photos or express your personality must be prioritized.

In the working attire we should be very aware of the “esprit de corps”, which are values that should be conveyed by a professional of a certain activity to result effective. For example, a banker should transmit a sober, stable and calming look; while an artist should irradiate creativity, originality, seduction and the personal image of a politician should be respectably, balanced and booster.

For the ceremony attire I suggest to emphasize “more your individuality and less the corporatism”, including style details, which could not be so suitable for working attire, like for example peak lapels, a single button jacket, slanted pockets or your own ideas provided that it is your day.

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5. CHOOSE FABRICS WITH IMPACT

The fabric choice is key as it will determine the whole look of the groom and accessories, which as its own name suggests should be chosen after the suit.

If we look simplicity and elegance, a plain fabric is suitable when goes in hand with a great quality cloth like the made of silk, , cashmere or a Super 100’s . Nevertheless and maintaining discretion, opt for a touch of sophistication with an impacting fabric!.

We like the most, those fabrics that at a mid-distance show interesting patterns or insinuating shapes but cannot be guessed unless you stare at them in the short distance, where they become surprising because of their design or novelty. Fabrics with a little shine will appear better in photos and video.

These fabrics are usually “remakes” or evolutions of the classic patterns, with new compositions and combinations of stripes and herringbones, embossed patterns, dots or reinvented checks. The message you will transmit will be about updated, well-informed and great style.

Tip: To be able to choose a fabric properly, keep away 2 or 3 meters to see it in the distance that we normally use to evaluate a suit. You will be surprised about the fact that patterns that appear highly “eye-catching” in the sample, can go even unnoticed in the distance.

SUMMER WEDDING

Most suitable quality and thickness will be determined by the wedding’s time of the year. If you get married in summer go for a light fabric (less than 275 grams/meter) to keep coolness.

A wool is always a sure option specially the thinnest ones (Super 100’s until Super 180’s), but there are fabrics specifically appropriate for this like mohair, which comes from the Angora Goat and offers great transpiration and lightness and at the same time Mohair suit resistance and durability. It has also an attractive characteristic shine very flattering.

PAGE 8 TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

Also the cool wool silk and even linen, that with its more casual appearance can be perfect for a wedding in the beach. Mind also that light coloured fabrics will retain less the sun heat in very hot places.

WINTER WEDDING

For winter season, we recommend mid thickness fabrics (from 300 gr. until 375 gr.). Thicker fabrics have today fallen in disuse due to the extended air conditioning systems.

The aforementioned mentioned worsted wool suit is a good choice all year because of its resistance and great adaptation. However there are other wintertime fabrics very advisable that will result very distinguished. I am talking about , with its slightly combed yarn, Flannel suit cashmere with its unique softness and drape.

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6. COLOURS … THINK IN PHOTOGRAPHIC EFFECTS

After the shine and golden prevailing in the Napoleonic court, British style imposed in the European capitals. It stated, “Any serious suit must be dark”. Blue prevailed as the most suitable for the “city” and black as the most solemn and representative for etiquette.

Taking this into consideration, we can introduce more colours in summer and the winter season demands darker tones, and a note of colour can be included in waistcoat and accessories. The wedding time of day is also important demanding darker colours the later it takes place.

Beyond these ideas, choose the most flattering colours for you, those that enhance your best look in photos and video, documents that will remain for the future. For this purpose, it is recommended to choose a suit with little shine as it will provide us with great photographic effects due to the reflection of light in the fabric while moving.

Moreover the quality and shine of the fabric, here you are some advice to choose best colours for your tone, colour of eyes and morphology.

PALE SKINS

 For pale skins, dark colours work better because they don’t offer a great aspect when paired with white or very light colours.

 Regarding to , beige is not a good choice provided your skin can look even paler.

DARK SKINS

 People with dark skins should avoid too dark colours that don’t stand out over their skin tone. The goal is to bring light to the face with well contrasting colours.

 Brilliant colours are a signal of confidence but they should be nuanced with soft-coloured accessories.

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COLOURS AND COMPLEXIONS

 Black is resounding and sophisticated but is not suitable for all complexions as in some cases can result hard for groom’s facial features and skin tone.

 Light grey is a classic going well with almost any complexion, and complementing very well the vast majority of bride .

 Dark grey gives a formal touch and acquires special elegance with fabrics that soften its dark mass with a lighter “vigoré” (light combed yarns).

 Navy blue is probably the most popular colour for ceremony. With really good photographic effects, but demands to be very careful in the selection of the tone to avoid being vulgarized by other guests’ blue suits.

You will possibly like that some part of your suit matches with the bride’s dress. An interesting idea could be to match the colour of the tie or pocket square. It is not needed to get the same exact colours, the idea is to maintain a balanced harmony between them. .

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7. OPT FOR THE MOST FLATTERING SUIT CUT FOR YOU

At this point, please let me be categorical concerning to “no matter how expensive the suit may be, no matter the brand or quality fabric, if it does not fit you well, it will be a complete failure”

It is precisely the mission of a good Tailor or style advisor to flatter his client, empower his strengths and conceal his weaknesses. After uncountable hours spent in the fitting room, we develop a “clinic eye” capable to calculate accurately the most suitable proportions for each person and the style that results most flattering for them (shoulders, fittings, height of buttons and pockets, height of notch and width of lapels…). The perfect match arrives when we combine those factors with a touch of fashion and current trend, all aligned with customer’s preferences.

A well cut suit will make a difference, so if you have to choose between the last suit worn in a movie by your favourite actor, model or sportsman and what can suit you best, I recommend to choose the latter, what in any case means to resign to a style, but adapt it to better achieve your image goals.

Generally speaking:

TALL PEOPLE

 They can wear 2 button suits and even add more buttons to the jacket in 3 or 4 buttons times (now 3 and 4 button are not very trendy but fashion is cyclical and surely they will come back in the future ). No vents.

 They can also choose frock and longer garments, as well as lighter colours that structure better the body shape.

 The tolerate more closed in the neck waistcoats also high and wide collars.

 If voluminous, they should wear an envolving style of shoulders, preferably plain fabrics and narrower shirt collars.

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MEDIUM SIZED AND THICK PEOPLE

 2 Button jackets, they can go for a central vent, thin and dark fabrics. If they have a short waistline or prominent stomach, they can conceal it with a double breasted jacket.

 Better short and mid open shirt collars. Double breasted waistcoat with 4 buttons better than 6.

SHORT PEOPLE

 Jackets with 1 or 2 buttons with wide lapels, preferably in peak, as they focus sight upwards and figure appears to be more slender. Also stripes contribute with a slender effect in body shape.

 Open neckline waistcoats with straight lines in the bottom or even double breasted with colour and patterns. In the case of thin people, include a pleat in trousers and for strong people better without .

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8. DISTINGUISH YOURSELF AS THE CEREMONY HOST

In every wedding is interesting to distinguish the groom from the guests, if only for checking that the guy kissing the bride is indeed the groom. Details to distinguish yourself are:

WAISTCOAT

The waistcoat daily use has declined during the second part of the XX century. But not for ceremony as it offers interesting pros like, to grant a classic and elegant look, introduduce a bit of colour and enable to maintain a decent image if the groom decides to take the jacket off.

While wearing a morning coat, waistcoat is mandatory and may be of the same fabric than the coat (with ribbons in the fronts), beige, and pearl grey. Today vivid colours like yellow, blue, pink or green are accepted and when double breasted, it should go better with lapels.

In the case of wearing suit, it is not mandatory but highly recommended.

You can choose cloth or silk fabrics, plain and sober or patterned and Beige Waistcoat more daring. It can also be single or double breasted, which currently is very popular and with 6 button is really flattering. When single breasted, the last button can be left open.

BOUTONNIERE

It consists on a floral detail in the lapel that can be a single flower or bouquet of flowers. Traditionally it used to be hanged through the left lapel buttonhole, in the same side as the pocket square. The buttonhole. The buttonhole used to have a to hold the flower’s stem, but today it has disappeared so we can use a pin behind the lapel.

There is some debate as to whether wearing both together the boutonniere and pocket square or not, afraid of appearing “too ornate”. Personally I think that the effect is good so I encourage you to wear them together, as long as it goes with a discrete pocket square and it does not peek out excessively about the pocket (a good reference is to show a quarter part of it).

Boutonniere and Pocket Square

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SHIRT AND TIE

Shirt must be of great quality of , silk or mixed silk combinations, which offer much shine while reducing the wrinkles of the silk. White, ivory, grey are typical, being interesting the option of making the collar and cuffs of a different fabric than the body. I like fabrics like twill with its diagonal yarns that grant shirts a special light shade.

The collar is the key point. We must ensure that it is well fitted, not showing in excess, which is very negative, and avoiding also that collar ends roll up and get separated from the shirt’s body when we tie the knot. Height of the base of the collar, width and amount of opening should flatter your features.

Approximately 1 cm of the cuffs should be shown underneath the jacket sleeves. They can be to be tied with or button, being cufflinks a more formal option.

Herringbone Twill pattern The tie is the accessory that enables a higher grade of innovation, so I will only point out the importance of tying it properly and gracefully, what has more to do with the sort of knot and the force applied to tie it. Particularly I prefer the Windsor knot, which is thicker and triangular shaped than the American, although the American might help better to slender the figure due to its more elongated shape.

REST OF ACCESSORIES

Pocket square contributes to add more interest and colour to the groom’s outfit. It can be made of linen or silk and colour can be different from the tie, but always complementary. Options of patterns and colours are almost infinite and white, ivory, and grey are the most popular.

It can be worn perfectly folded forming a rectangle, although I prefer offering a younger look by introducing it in the pocket “in an apparently more accidental way” showing part of the base and part of the peaks.

If worn the belt should be discrete and match with the shoes. are a better choice as they maintain better trousers in place, enhancing verticality of crease, and they are also more efficient avoiding shirt displacements.

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9. GIVE IMPORTANCE TO SHOES

In my opinion it is a bit exaggerated the statement that “shoes are the most important garment of the men’s attire”, although I admit that a superb outfit could be ruined by a bad shoes choice.

Give them importance in your attire and choose high quality shoes. The classic leather for men’s shoes is the calf skin or “boxcalf”. Although it is not easy to see differences to the naked eye, fortunately, shoes market is one of those in which a well-known brand is synonymous of quality, provided that formal shoes have barely evolved and have survived the best brands with best raw materials and handicraft manufacture.

Ceremony shoes should be light and stylized. With thin sole provided that the thicker, the less ceremonial it will look. They should be black, lace-up, and the shoelace eyelets attached to the top of the vamp. Brown shoes are discarded due to its casual look except for summer weddings with light suits.

Fortunately a wedding is not a sports competition and nothing happens if putting the shoes that day for the first time. Indeed, It is very common to do it, but remember to soles not being too slippery or have them prepared by shoemaker.

“Oxford” shoes – considered the most formal for ceremony

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10. DON’T LEAVE IT TO THE LAST MOMENT… SCHEDULE IT

A custom made or bespoke suit takes 3 or 4 weeks to make. Nevertheless, and as there might be necessary at least one fitting, it is not advisable to leave it to the last moment, especially in the case of your wedding suit. Schedule it in advance with at least a 3 or 4 months’ time.

CREATE YOUR SUIT ONLINE / VISIT OUR SHOWROOM If you are visiting Bilbao (Spain) you can schedule and appointment to visit our showroom. If not, I suggest to create your suit online with us in www.exquisuits.com/en/ and even measure up with the webcam

JAVIER DE JUANA | EXQUISUITS Avenida de Leioa, 14-B. Neguri (Getxo). Bizkaia – España Tlf: (+34) 944 914 137 | [email protected] www.javierdejuana.com | www.exquisuits.co.uk

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Javier de Juana y Hugo de Juana TIPS TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT WEDDING SUIT FOR GROOM

ABOUT THE AUTHOR - HUGO DE JUANA CEO OF EXQUISUITS ONLINE TAILORING, STYLE ADVISOR AND E-COMMERCE& SEO EXPERT

Formed in the family fashion and tailoring business, from an early age learnt to design and cut bespoke garments, the personal image keys, fitting and core competencies to satisfy the most demanding customers. Among them there are important personalities of the economic, political and social life.

The attraction he feels about marketing and a vocational entrepreneurial spirit, led him to create their own projects like the creation in 2005 of the luxury shop e-commerce platform Xelectia-Redes de Excelencia Comercial, in 2010 Xelectia Web Lab as a web design and SEO agency specialized in retail firms and e-commerce. In 2014 he launches with Javier de Juana, President of the Club de Sastres de España, Exquisuits as a high end online tailoring platform.

Hugo de Juana

He has taken part in numerous events like the eBusiness Global Conference, Semana del Comercio Vasca, Urban Commerce, Evento Iniciativa Pymes. Also took part in the work group of Ikusmer of Ecommerce advice to the Country government. He is also professor in the Master Internet Business 2.0 of the Prestigious Eseune Business School and in Marketing Master Gesco, ESIC School of business.

Hugo de Juana graduated in Marketing by the Bilbao Chamber of Commerce and, Business Studies diploma by the Basque Country University. He studied a Master in online marketing and e-commerce and a master in marketing and commercial management.

You can visit his websites Online Tailoring (www.exquisuits.com) | Inspiration gallery (www.xelectia.com) | Blog Xelectia (http://blog.xelectia.com) | Xelectia Web Lab (http://www.xelectiaweblab.com)

If you want to get in touch with Hugo de Juana : Mail: [email protected] | Twitter: @hugodejuana LinkedIn: http://es.linkedin.com/in/hugodejuana

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