Your Day at Athens's Main Farmers

Home , Acropolis Museum, Aiolou Street, Athinas Street, Benaki Museum, Ermou Street (Athens), Kolonaki Square

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The Best 1 Full-Day Tours

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9 The Best f you’ve only got one day in town, get a good night’s sleep, Ibecause you can see most of the big sights, enjoy the shopping, and sample the foods of Athens in one fell swoop—if you work for it.

The historic center—encompassing the neighborhoods of Monasti- in One Day raki, Plaka, Syntagma, Psyrri, and Thissio—is quite compact and easy to orient yourself by, as the Acropolis is visible from just about anywhere. Just remember to put your walking shoes on, pack a cam- era, and fill your water bottle. START: Metro to Thissio.

1 ★★★ Thissio Square. It’s a 1687, when the Venetians tried to special occasion, so stop at this dislodge the long-ruling Turks. A convenient-to-the-Metro square for major controversy revolves around your (rather pricey) morning coffee the marble statues that originally or cafe-frappe and a toast (which in decorated the Parthenon and other Greece means a grilled cheese or buildings on the Acropolis: At the grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich). nadir of the scramble to amass Go for a table (try Athinaion antiquities while Greece was under Politeia, 33 Apostolou Pavlou and 1 occupation in the early 19th cen- Akamantos sts.; y 210/341-3795) tury, Britain’s Lord Elgin chiseled off far into the square toward the these friezes, which are now dis- Ancient Agora at the back (east) played in the British Museum— and soak up the sight of both the though Greece claims they rightfully Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The belong in Athens. Greece has built a view is also magical at night, when new museum to house them upon both edifices are lit up. Apostolou their longed-for, and many believe Pavlon & Iraklidon sts. inevitable, return. ★★★ 2 Grand Promenade. Four Caryatids (“maiden” columns) Nobody calls it that, but the stroll supporting a porch on the Erechtheion. along the cobblestone walkway that connects the ancient sites and monuments in the historic center is truly grand—especially the part around the Acropolis—and a popu- lar lovers’ lane in the evening, when couples straddle its low walls. Mean- der past or even through ancient pine, olive, and cypress groves and enjoy the views of the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, the Observatory on Pnyx Hill, and the Filopappou Monu- ment atop Filopappou Hill on your way to the Acropolis. Apostolou Pavlou/Dionysiou Areopagitou sts. 3 ★★★ = Acropolis. The 2,400-year-old temple to the city’s patron saint, Athena, is an architec- tural masterpiece and a beloved symbol of Greece. It was intact until 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:51 PM Page 10

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The Best 3A 3B BeuléBeulé GateGate 3C TempleTemple ooff AthenaAthena NNikeike SanctuarySanctuary ofof ArtemisArtemis 3D ParthenonParthenon ChalkothekeChalkotheke

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The Parthenon—the all-marble tem- entranceway. The little u Temple ple of Athena Parthenos (“Athena the of Athena Nike (“Athena Victory”), Virgin”) atop the Sacred Rock of the a beautifully proportioned Ionic tem- Acropolis—was built to mathematical ple built in 424 B.C. where citizens precision between 447 and 438 B.C., prayed for success, is perched above marking an apex in Doric architec- the Propylaia. It was restored in the ture. The architects, Ictinus and Calli- 1930s and is being rebuilt once more. crates, made curved surfaces appear Off to the left of the v Parthenon, level, bulging columns appear the temple of Athena the Virgin, is straight, and inclined columns appear the w Erechtheion, which the parallel. Once housing a 12m (40-ft.) Athenians honored as the tomb of gold-and-ivory statue by Pheidias (a Erechtheus, a legendary king. @ 1 hr. small Roman copy is in the National Dionysiou Areopagitou St. y 210/ Archaeological Museum), it has been 321-0219. www.culture.gr. Coupon used as Orthodox and Catholic booklet 12 adults (many categories, churches, a mosque, and a munitions including archaeology students, are storehouse, which was its undoing admitted free; ask or check website after 2,000 years. It is now undergo- for free-admission days) valid for 4 ing its most extensive restoration to days; includes the Acropolis, Ancient date. After the ticket entrance, you Agora, Theater of Dionysus, south first pass through the s Beulé slope, Kerameikos cemetery, Roman Gate—built by the Romans in A.D. Forum, north slope & the Temple of 267 but known by the name of the Olympian Zeus. Daily 8am–7pm; French archaeologist who discovered reduced winter hours. Metro: Akropoli it in 1852. Beyond lies the t Propy- or bus: 230. laia, the monumental 5th-century-B.C. 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:51 PM Page 11

11 The Best 4 ★★ = New Acropolis Museum. The brand-new museum (expected to open in 2009) faces the Acropolis on Dionysiou Areopagitou in One Day Street. Some 300 marble statues weighing up to 2.5 tons each were moved off the hill for the first time in 2006 and 2007. Four of the original Caryatids, sculpted women taking the place of columns or architec- tural supports, from the Erechtheion (see p 10) have been moved here (one had disappeared during Ottoman rule; another is in the British Museum), together with the entire collection from the old museum, including sculptures from A whitewashed winding backstreet in the Parthenon burnt by the Per- Plaka, the oldest district of Athens. sians, statues of korai (maidens) dedicated to Athena, figures of marble and Corinthian-capital-topped kouri (young men), and many other columns, built in A.D. 131–132 in finds from the Acropolis, comprising honor of Emperor Hadrian. It bears some 4,000 works altogether—ten two inscriptions: facing west (toward times the number previously on dis- the old town), THIS IS ATHENS, ONCE play. An area is set aside in anticipa- THE CITY OF THESEUS, and facing east tion of the return of the Elgin (toward the new town), Hadrian’s marbles (see p 27). @ 1–2 hr. 2–4 rebuke, THIS IS HADRIAN’S, AND NOT THE- Makriyanni St. y 210/924-1043 SEUS’S CITY. Amalias Ave. & Dionysiou (info only). www.newacropolis Areopagitou St. museum.gr. Metro: Akropoli. 6 ★★★ = Plaka. Stop for 5 Hadrian’s Arch. Facing Plaka lunch or an early dinner in this and the Acropolis is Hadrian’s tri- pedestrian zone; the food is nothing umphal arch, on a main Athens thor- special, but the atmosphere makes oughfare (Amalias Ave.). This gate up for it. Do some souvenir shop- from the “old” city of Athens to the ping, too, especially along Adrianou “new” Roman one is made of Pen- (Hadrian’s) and Pandrossou streets, telic (from nearby Mt. Pendeli) before or after wandering through

The entrance to the New Acropolis Museum overlooks the Makriyanni excavation site. 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:51 PM Page 12

12 any number of the island-village-like Dervishes danced in the tower. The alleys. Adrianou & Kydathineon sts. surrounding ruins of the Agora also contain the photogenic 15th-century 7 ★★ = Changing of the Fetiye mosque, built to commemo- Guard. The Presidential Guard rate Mehmet II the Conqueror’s visit keeps watch over the Tomb of the to Athens in 1458, but you can’t go Unknown Soldier, and two soldiers in. @ 20 min. Aiolou & Pelopida sts.

Full-Day Tours Full-Day engage in elaborate ceremonial exer- y 210/324-5220 or 210/321-0185. cises on the hour. See p 33, 2. Daily May–Oct 8am–7pm; Nov–Apr 8 ★★★ Ermou Street. You can’t 8:30am–3pm; closed Jan 1, Mar 25, leave Greece without buying a pair Easter Sunday, Ayiou Pnevmatos

The Best of stylish leather shoes, or at least (Whit Monday), May 1 & Dec 25–26. the iconic sandals. Pedestrianized Admission 2 or w/Acropolis ticket. Ermou (Hermes) Street has always Metro: Monastiraki. been one of Athens’s busiest, and ! ★★★ Thission Open-Air all the main chain stores are here, Cinema. The Thission cinema is alongside Greek shoemakers. The one of the few places where you street goes from Parliament all the can still see a film under the stars in way down (west) past the Monasti- licensed comfort. Most cinemas like raki and Thissio Metro stations to Thission have been declared cultural the ancient Kerameikos cemetery sites and cannot be used for any and old gasworks-turned-cultural- other purpose, but big cinema center Technopolis in Gazi. Ermou & chains have also bought in, proving Athinas sts. that outdoor theaters remain viable options, screening first-run as well 9 Thanasis. One of 3 or 4 as classic movies. Buy popcorn and mageiria (“cookhouses”) at the a beer or glass of wine during the end of the pedestrian section of intermission, and bring them to Mitropoleos Street (aka “Kebab your cafe table, interspersed Street”), Thanasis spills out into between directors’ chairs, in the Monastiraki Square, selling minced- breezy garden. See p 50. meat souvlaki in a pita to go for 1.90 . Or eat at an outdoor table The frieze atop the Tower of the Winds in amid the throngs at this bustling cor- the Roman Agora depicts Greek wind deities. ner of Plaka and the flea market. 69 Mitropoleos St. y 210/324-4705. $.

0 Tower of the Winds. Built by astronomer Andronikos Kyristes, the octagonal 1st-century-B.C. Tower of the Winds at the end of Aiolou Street (“Street of the Winds”), inside the Roman Agora (a forum or market- place constructed under the reign of Julius Caesar and Augustus), depicts the eight wind deities. Once contain- ing a water clock and topped by a weather vane, the area, Aerides, is named after this unique monument. In the 18th century, Whirling 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:51 PM Page 13

13 The Best in One Day

Shaded outdoor cafes along Iraklidon Street in Thissio are heated in winter and cooled in summer.

@ ★★★ Psyrri. Psyrri, favored by machines and fans. Drinks are flower-selling Roma children, where expensive, but you can sip (and sit) bars and restaurants are crammed for hours. Iraklidon & Apostolou on narrow pedestrian streets, is the Pavlou sts. most lively of the central districts of $ ★★ Technopolis. If you hear Athens, positively hopping at night. muffled music as intermittent sound You can sit outside and watch Athe- waves in Thissio, chances are nians coming and going to and from there’s a free open-air concert at their favorite night haunt or a Technopolis, the former gasworks bouzouki-filled (that is, accompa- and now exhibition-and-event space nied by the traditional Greek guitar) run by the city of Athens. The old dinner. Iroon Square. brick smokestacks glow red at night # Iraklidon Street. From Psyrri, and provide an orienting beacon, as walk to Iraklidon Street in Thissio does the Acropolis. Restaurants, (walk across Ermou St. and up the cafe-bars, and clubs have sprung up cobblestone walkway past the in the surrounding (somewhat Thissio Metro station to Thissio Sq., decrepit) area known as Gazi, now and down Iraklidon), which is abuzz undergoing gentrification. @ 2 hr. with outdoor cafe-bars. If it’s winter, 100 Piraeos St. at Persefonis St. get cozy under a gas heater, and in y 210/346-1589 or 210/346-7322. summer cool off under mist Metro: Kerameikos.

Original 1857 gasworks pipes are now decoration for the Technopolis exhibition space in Gazi. 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:51 PM Page 14

14 The Best in Two Days

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15 The Best ou can’t come all the way to Athens and skip the museums. Y(Well, you could, but you would be missing an opportunity to V. Irak s S k u liou a iano i in fully explore the culture of a city not uncommonly called the “Cradle n t l s i D u e i Io l l National igia t nn s s u i ria i he I i Archaeological o lc r ra u z in Two Days i Po i t a of Western Civilization.”) The National Archaeological Museum in b n n u n . Museum i a Zo m r t o s m F r u k a A u F y o M L Z t a O o h a p K a n particular is considered one of the world’s great collections, housing m i V s 8 B S n o v a T u K k o o s i m a r 2 its a e i a r a o n a t k i p l V n a r o d i Strefi Hill s i e o d o Nat’l. Technical u a i t t stunning Mycenaean antiquities, Cycladic sculptures, and Minoan a n z o o k r s u s u o I o s i o i s ou io n k l Univ. of Athens m m i t i o n p ig a li u r a i P u r k k s o T o s u V o A frescoes, and your second day should be primarily devoted to it (it Sto T u o p g s urn h o Ip i ar c o i u l n P o D d l o a So e o T g i will probably take half the day). This one really is worth the trip. lo M o e mou e E t Z S s a s r s im r h a Ka v re e o m I o s T pod e t v i k Da K istri n s h o a s t mas ou o o o l v k o kinou START: Metro to Omonia. i u u e r i n s o n n o n u n i o o o s s n t le k u f Kosm s k o li i u a a M. t i a o k o is p h r u c o o g m o i if k m k p n e i i u i h r ro N o T T v A n u h il K u a o ili ic a o ou o ila M an m ap Lycabettus K r n le r A u o nt a t ha r u O fn ri a m i C a io a at r Theater m c lip D p Sa i E N h k xa k a o As o na v V v A D e a i g B r D a s . i i lt Is n d e id F o o t o i u t s r d o io ou io u u u us to ra Lycabettus ok Ipp Hill C A h S n e o a rs National l g o A o n n k n o o Library a o s s d s t R A i o o r m i p n s Panepistimio ia o g t s u a o Univ. of a l u d in o F k po o ip e Athens S u o rist S P k u A m t i I a a l l o d n T id ia ous i e Academy of s o en u o p a om u u k u le s is Athens o a K tou Klath- t it l kra im av o L ino monos u ik f ou o D L u r u io iro to a u ri S d k M Sq. m k in i ou k a ip O o o P efs a is im n Sp r u u a ikV D S o o r f t s e o a li u a l m l k i A la o Ira o n akim P r o Io l it s hou o o rc u u tria Kolokotr u Pa t oni io kis a st pe r L e Alo c e r h k u o Kan o k k ari H ou tou a u ad u an o e rne Ipsil Pe V r Ka rikleos o d The bronze statue of a horse and jockey in the National Archaeological Museum was o E t rmou V o recovered from a shipwreck off Cape Artemision. Syntagma as. u Sofias War Museum s i l Syntagma of Greece u Parliament s o i

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k s llonos i i o l Ap t 1 Aigaion. Fill up at Aigaion, an i t Byzantine & Syntagma u archaeological specimens of this g i A o X e r Christian Museum nofo R n u tos o Likio Athenian institution, where you can o u h ancient civilization’s giant legacy are

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i i Nikode o m o z ou National Gardens r t sit in an old-fashioned, cafeteria-like I a n S Athens u i housed in a handsome 1880 neoclas- o l r d l ri i e e Conservatory l basement to eat the specialty of the i Ip F Vas. G sical building. It has had many alter- s eorgio eon a Presidential u hin li house, loukoumades (just-out-of-the- at a House ations, but the facade is courtesy of yd m u K A A A o m deep-fryer doughnut holes drizzled in . inda r n c Ernst Ziller. The museum is divided u s u T h a alo a P i o Ded V e e r d a l o u f e la honey and sprinkled with cinnamon). d i o a s o T Zappeion Is n s i into sections—the prehistoric collec- A h i li u a d ou n s lo an in io u Cheese pies or homemade rice pud- Lis u st kt u iko tion, the Santorini findings, sculp- ik n Ar n ra Ko ou la tou . n E dings and custard creams are also on s as ria u tures, vases and minor objects, V r o V E A F r a e i s. r drou the very limited menu (that’s all they a p Ol t g o u s S metallurgy, the Stathatos collection, a i s a s o A i g t r h s make). If sitting inside doesn’t appeal, u ra e m a Temple of Zappio s n a o the Vlastos collection, Egyptian art, n k o d u a r Olympian Zeus o take it to go for 2.90 , or buy it by Panathenian e s h p t and Near Eastern antiquities—and I M Stadium A the kilo (18 for 2.2 lb.) and gorge en works range from the Neolithic M route. 46 Panepistimiou St. y 210/ a tou s it r Arditou Eftic period (8500–5500 B.C.) to the late d a o hid

r Pig k oouu A d iou o elet u Hill n 381-4621 or 381-4622. $. a Roman (1st century B.C.). Highlights M M

L. Vouliagmenis o m u a

s d include Trojan artifacts excavated by i

s l

o o

u P r German treasure hunter Heinrich o 2 ★★★ u National Archaeologi- Schliemann, Mycenaean gold work cal Museum. Most recently reno- (also uncovered by Schliemann), and vated in 2004 following damage from Cycladic sculptures. First Cemetery a 1999 earthquake and in anticipation 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:51 PM Page 16

2F Floor 1

2D Vase and Minor Objects Temporary Exhibitions Collection Full-Day Tours Full-Day 2H Egyptian Collection 2G

The Best Bronze Collection

2E 2B Sculpture Collection Prehistoric Collection 2C Ground Floor 2A

The National Entrance Archaeological Museum

The museum’s j Neolithic Col- Egyptian to the fluid Classical, the lection houses ceramic pottery and angular to the anatomically correct. figurines that date from 6800 B.C. Also upstairs, represented in the Grouped with the Neolithic is the o Vase and Minor Objects k Mycenaean Collection, high- Collection, are the famed red and lighted by the golden “Mask of black figures from Attic pottery. Agamemnon” death mask. This royal Exquisite jewelry and silver are also funeral mask, uncovered in a grave at found here. The p Metals Collec- Mycenae, may actually be too old to tion contains the bronze Horse and have belonged to Agamemnon, who Jockey and Poseidon (or Zeus) of led the Greeks in battle to Troy. Follow Artemision statues, from the 2nd cen- this collection to the razor-planed tury B.C. There is also a Virgin Mary marble figurines of the l Cycladic look-alike, the Lady of Kalymnos. Collection. Amazingly, these mod- Finally, the q Egyptian Collec- ern-looking milky-white statues were tion covers that civilization from carved some 4,000 to 5,000 years 5000 B.C. up to the Roman conquest. ago. The m Thera Collection of @ 3 hr. 44 Patission & 28 Oktovriou circa-1700-B.C. frescos from Akrotiri, sts. y 210/821-7717. May–Sept Mon on the isle of Santorini, emphasize 1–7:30pm; Tues–Sun & holidays that volcanically preserved settle- 8am–7:30pm. Oct–Apr Mon ment’s connection to Minoan Crete: 1–7:30pm; Thurs 8:30am–7:30pm; For an island town, Akrotiri—Greece’s Tues–Wed, Fri–Sun & holidays own Pompeii—had a wide network 8:30am–3pm. Admission 7 adults, of external relations. The large n 18 & under free, discounts for stu- Sculpture Collection shows dents, seniors. Metro: Victoria or trol- the progression from the wooden ley: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 13, 15. 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:51 PM Page 17

17 The Best The November 17 Uprising

One of Greece’s most recent dark periods was the 1967 coup in Two Days by a group of midranking colonels. The military junta that took over the nation where democracy was born was both absurd—there were laws against miniskirts and long hair—and brutal. Secret police, torture, imprisonment, and exile were common practices of the despised, and infamously American-backed, far-right dictatorship. In 1973, tanks invaded the campus of the Polytechnic where students were protesting, leaving some 34 dead. It is commemorated each year—giving opportunistic anarchists more chances to vent—with a march on the massive U.S. embassy, while the date has also been adopted as the moniker of Greece’s deadliest leftist terrorist group.

3 Exarchia Square. If you don’t 6 ★★ Dora Stratou Theater. want to head back to your hotel for One of the most unusual experi- a rest, walk to the nearby student ences is to see Greek folk costume zone of Exarchia. This area’s proxim- dancing in the outdoor theater on ity to the Polytechnic and its anar- Filopappou Hill. It’s an adventure to chic reputation make it a magnet for walk there, and it’s memorable to artists (both fine and graffiti) and watch and listen to the live singers intellectuals, as well as students, and musicians as you’re sitting who frequent the cafe-bars around under the stars. Look out for the square. Also check out the inter- (increasingly rare) bats as they dart esting Boho shops, especially on in and out of the light. See p 122. Themistokleous, Emmanouil Benaki, and Zoodochou Pigis streets. The wealthy, chic Kolonaki neighborhood Stournari & Themistokleous sts. of Athens, home to Kolonaki Square, is located on the southwestern slopes of 4 ★ = Lycabettus Hill. See Lycabettus Hill. p 35, 9.

5 ★ Kolonaki Square. This posh area of central Athens is the defini- tion of Athenian cafe society, where the restaurants facing the square don’t seem to have changed since the 1960s, where the movers and shakers live, where beautiful people have to be seen, and where the arty items in basement shops look as if they’re on display more to amuse the proprietors than to actually sell. If you want to be seen as well, DaCapo is a good spot, with fine coffees, snacks, and even cocktails. 1 Tsakalof St. 210/360-2497. $. 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/086:51PMPage18

The Best Full-Day Tours 18

AAnagnostop CChersonos The Best u CCityity HHallall SSolonos n h o u o a e 1 la s NNationalational l g r Central Market i o o s is u n g r n o o LLibraryibrary o AAgisilaou EEpikourou d u o n t lo s p n s o RRongakou Ilia 2 AAthensthens MMunicipalunicipal a SSof g t LLycabettusycabettus a r o o o s Kerameikos ik fokleokle z o SSalaminas o nnandrou k ousou a p n a AArtrt GGalleryallery s u e o m oulouo g l s M UUniv.niv. ooff u HHillill a r SSokratous e a a o MMe PPesmazoglou u n l k 3 Ancient Agora m AAthensthens i o FFokilidou u u SSina o EEleftheriasleftherias o PanepistimiouPanepistimiou u o in s 1 llou u o o k a e o a i d PPanepistimiou i I ir SSq.q. iido AAkadimias l l 4 s AAristofanous EEvripidou TTsakalof i i t PPiraeos u v a d a Dioskouri u ripid AAio k s r o s n o o o u AAcademycademy i a a g i l e u in s i r SStadiou d u k il KKriezi t p o a h ooff AAthensthens i AArist KKlath-lath- t m t mAAg. u r i o AAg. Mark i i l 5 o lo r c a s v o Benaki Museum r i i f g P d t i a u a schilous a g p e a s r i a k f s i z SSari . a mmonosonos i m u i u ro E LLikavitou PPsaromilingou. DDipilou n a x o o s o a AAsomatonLLeo i M ir it d AAnar o n it u io r SSkoufa s e n i e SSq.q. m k in 6 a u s a l u OOmirou o k PPindarou 2 o h Syntagma Station o r is r o o ggiro o t s s m kkoriou i s s k u i im o ro ddos VVissisi s ik DDimokritouSSolonos u u OOgigou la AAthinas ouo r VVal f o a r g n l e o a it i a u a kl t i in Three Days KKerameikoserameikos C eCem.m. i o o g i PPalla m l lo a 7 n o k AAmerikis aaoritou IIraklitour National Gardens o n u u V o n lid a MMiaouli o r o e k re i MMelidoni s i o t s i a u Kololokotroniokot o 8 Zappeion Gardens EErmrm PSYRRI ra o roni u u KOLONAKI oouu u a io HHerodotou K l t E s i MONASTIRAKI L e e v e r u r 9 a k KKana o Panathenian Stadium k o anarri AAtht n k i hinenedodo a u d s g o o s M VVoukourestiou e PPerikleos ThissioThissio MonastirakiMonastiraki erikle t o o s o 10 M l Temple of Olympian Zeus n i SYNTAGMA Iffestoue s u o st t i o u r t M a EErmourmo k u 4 iitropo s i Ad Pa tro VVaas. 5 f rian nd p SyntagmaSyntagma M Soofiaf ou ros olleeoos 6 ias s s mmfiktionos s s ] o i IIraklido u l o u r A SSyntagmayntagma a u k eose PParliamentarliament l o s i SStoatoa ooff l o i do r k SSq.q. NNil oloo VVoulis u ile n AAr i ooss i OOtho ourouzi AAttalosttalos tho ouo MMourouzi NNikis nosn A os k i s PPelop os i A llon t e AApollonospo lisl 3 lo drianodr t i p ia u iidad SyntagmaSyntagma L g n A os AApostolou Pavlou i t a o o man u XXeno a e r n RRigi p n s Ak AAncientncient ofontfon u u to o o o s LLik ouo Attik ikiiouou ror s o s h NNationalational AAgoragora d c t u eeous o n l i o o s Nikod i ouo e kkl e m o r ttiichorou OObservatorybservatory l ou NationalNational G Gardensardens I n o k s o h nonn o i S i s t u e n n u n SSholiou o l i id l r oso a h PLAKA r t i h P ele c e 7 OOtrineon P MMnis l i o i a DDi p eori r I l FFil v h as i T E o l o T u eon s PPresidentialresidential u r in a RRangavaip ath li a o yd a HHouseouse n d u K m g o o A a n

n . v u s u a alo a i DDedaloued a o r d AACROPOLISCROPOLIS VVas. Amalias o u d i HHerodeserodes TThalou ZZappeionappeion IIsiodous o AAdrianou h in a nt AAtticustticus lo ta u T LLisikis u s no h n i TTheaterheater ikr o EEratosthenousktinout r aatous 8 r s K r a to . a AArk

o u s PPnyxnyx HHillill s s a to i l n VVas. Konstantinou l s o oono V th DDionysiouio Areopagitou r a nys u s e iou y . Areop Ol n agito V ga o u 10 s 9 AAgg u rasra s 0 1/4 mi RRovertouov Gal TTempleemple ooff L ZappioZappio s ert KKallisperiallisperi NNewew ou OOlympianlympian ZZeuseus Gal AcropolisAcropolis M AAkropolikropoli PanathenianPanathenian Petralona 0 1/4 km li MuseumMuseum ZappioZappio L SStadiumtadium 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:52 PM Page 19

19 The Best tart your day at Athens’s main farmers’ market, on bustling

Athinas Street, which used to be known for its bordellos and

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b i a g

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a o

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o you over till mealtime. Then detour to the ancient cemetery of Kera-

k u

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a a i

g a

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n o d k

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o r t meikos, wander around the picturesque Ancient Agora, and make I a d P n s i s ili S

o t

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F P s o r a i e f f e your way to a museum, walking back through the National Gardens o r h l u H C a o a d

k k i a S n

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u o r

o s n e

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n r Zeus’s temple. In the evening, hit the spots you missed on the other i a u g k S

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a START: a Metro to Omonia. D evenings. i

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u Matrozou sts. in Koukaki), but the o

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o S l k Street near Omonia Square 6 days i

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m E k o

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e P i a week. If you’re not in a protein

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r y V d r i s i t s i r A u k n A kylix (drinking cup) in Attic red-figure lo on e o as ou d A mood, it also offers cheeses, dried it r elistr li o a t ng o p v x Eva Sh ri ga style, on display at the Ancient Agora

ra o s T an u M

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d r M E

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i o o

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M o o t start your day here. See p 79.

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i ancient Athenians. (Pericles deliv- k o s C u l I o t i A d o o o

o i L

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o n O i i i h M t o o A n l r ered his funeral oration for the sol- S p n u P 2 V A Kerameikos. If you have time, i a e o i

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t r Athinas Street, home to 108 butchers, f K u u burial customs, such as urns and

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m write postcards here using an k k

na t

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m r r la I s e a N S b K Acropolis ticket coupon. Once the O

o center of commercial life in ancient

e l i N Athens, with temples, gymnasiums, odeons, markets, and council houses where the vouli (parliament) legislated for the world’s first democracy, broken columns are now strewn among crumbling foun- dations interspersed with olive, pink oleander, cypress, and palm trees. a n o l a r t e P 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:52 PM Page 20

Adrianou HHellenisticellenistic SStoatoa ofof BBuildinguilding ZZeuseus EEleutheriosleutherios HHephaisteionephaisteion 3A TempleTemple ofof

Full-Day Tours Full-Day AresAres

MMetroonetroon 3B BBouleuterionouleuterion AAltarltar ofof ZZeuseus AgoraiosAgoraios SStoatoa ofof The Best OOdeiondeion ooff AAttalosttalos AAgrippagrippa SSouthwestouthwest TTholosholos TTempleemple

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AAgiigii AApostolipostoli 3C SSolakiolaki The Ancient Agora

Communal life in early Athens version of the lotto machine, was revolved around the Ancient Agora, used to select citizens for jury duty. although you’d be hard-pressed to The u Agii Apostoli Solaki is reconstruct the layout of this market the only other structure intact, and from the mind’s eye. The s Heph- justifiably so, as this church wasn’t aisteion, better known as the This- built until the 11th century. Every- seion (which dates to 449–447 B.C.), thing else was demolished by either is one of the world’s best-preserved the invading Herulians in A.D. 267 or Greek temples due to protection the subsequent private housing put from the Greek Orthodox Church, up during the Roman and Byzantine which used it from the 7th century eras. The area was still residential to 1834 as its own house of worship. through the 1950s, when it was The circa-1950s t Stoa of razed again—to dig for archaeologi- Attalos is a reconstruction of the cal remnants of the original Agora. 2nd-century-B.C. version, where busi- @ 1 hr. Entrance/exit on Adrianou St. nesses set up shop, philosophers & Agiou Filippou, Monastiraki; west debated, and people just hung out. end of Polygnotou St., Plaka; & The Stoa museum contains fascinat- Thissio Sq., Thissio. y 210/321-0185. ing artifacts that show how the www.culture.gr. May–Oct Tues–Sun ancients carried out early democratic 8am–7pm, Mon 11am–7pm; reduced processes. Jurors voted by ballot: winter hours (3pm closing). Closed They cast a bronze disc with a solid Jan 1, Mar 25, Easter Sunday, Ayiou axle if they believed that the defen- Pnevmatos (Whit Monday), May 1 & dant was innocent, and they cast a Dec 25–26. Site & museum 4 adults. hollow one if they believed he was Metro: Monastiraki or Thissio. guilty. A marble kleroterion, an early 05_285671-ch01.qxp 8/21/08 6:52 PM Page 21

21 The Best ★ = 4 Dioskouri. Go to the prome- 6 Syntagma Station. nade behind (south of) Monastiraki There are archaeological finds from station across from the Metro line Metro excavations inside this station, but also stop at one of the that runs to Thissio, and your in Three Days reward will be a view of the Acropo- open-air “museums” uncovered lis above the Ancient Agora—and from the works. This one contains the low prices at this meze-restau- well-preserved Roman baths, with rant and cafe that is always full. sections dating from the 5th and Look for the ancient-ship logo on 3rd centuries A.D. @ 10 min. Vas. the awnings (the sign’s only in Georgiou, Othonos & Filellinon sts. & Greek). 37 & 39 Adrianou St. Amalias Ave. y 210/325-3323 or 325-3333. $$. 7 = National Gardens. The 16 hectares (40 acres) of crisscross- ing paths, quiet little dead ends, and 5 ★★ Benaki ponds among giant Housed in Museum. trees in the former the mansion of one of Royal Gardens Athens’s most prominent behind Parliament families, this excellent pri- (once the palace) vate museum contains arti- in the city center facts from the Neolithic is a great place to era to the 20th century. escape the concrete The folk-art collection jungle that surrounds (including costumes it. Some 7,000 trees and icons) is superb, as and 40,000 plants from are two rooms decorated Greece and abroad have in the style of 18th-century taken root here since the northern Greek mansions, mid-1800s, when Queen with ancient bronzes, gold Amalia brought over a cups, Fayum portraits, and Bavarian gardener to rare, early Christian tex- A ceramic pitcher from redesign her back- tiles. A new wing has the Benaki Museum, one yard. It was national- doubled the exhibition of about 40,000 items on ized in 1923. Stop at space of the early-20th- display there. the cafe, 4 Irodou century neoclassical Attikou St. (y 210/ house, but the Benakis’s 723-2820), for massive collection of Islamic art must refreshment. @ 20 min. Syntagma still be housed in a museum near the Sq.; entrances from Zappeion Gar- Thissio Metro station, and large exhi- dens, Amalias Ave. & Vas. Sofias & bitions are held at its annex at 138 Irodou Attikou sts. Daily 8:30am– Piraeos St. (Bus: 049), which also sunset. has a gift shop/bookshop and cafe. @ 1–2 hr. Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Ave. 8 Zappeion Gardens. Adjacent y 210/367-1000. www.benaki.gr. to the National Gardens is the Admission 6 adults, 3 seniors, free 14-hectare (35-acre) Zappeion, on Thurs & for children 17 & under; bequeathed in the 1880s by philan- see website for other discounts. Mon, thropist Evangelias Zappas to kick- Wed & Fri–Sat 9am–5pm; Thurs start the Olympic movement. Still 9am–midnight; Sun 9am–3pm; closed resembling Henry Miller’s “quintes- Tues, holidays. Metro: Syntagma. sence of park,” it contains a small but important exhibition hall, a 05_285671-ch01.qxp 9/4/08 6:04 PM Page 22

22 cafe-restaurant, and Aigli, Athens’s oldest open-air cinema. You can still picture impressionistic, parasol- twirling women and children in sailor suits on the broad, tree-lined promenade, whose shade cools strolling Athenians on hot summer Full-Day Tours Full-Day evenings, and the usual contingent of pensioners debating politics and playing tavli (backgammon). @ 20 min. Entrances from the National

The Best Gardens, Amalias Ave. & Vas. Olgas & Vas. Konstantinou sts. 9 Panathenian Stadium. Also called the Kalimarmaro (“beautiful marble”) and Panathinaiko Stadium, it was reconstructed in marble by Herodes Atticus in A.D. 143–144, after A detail of a Corinthian capital from the the circa-330-B.C. original that hosted Temple of Olympian Zeus. Panathenian games every 4 years. It was again rebuilt, for the first modern station. @ 10 min. Vas. Konstantinou Olympics, in 1896 by benefactor & Irodou Atikou sts. George Averof and today is the venue for major events, including the finish 0 Temple of Olympian Zeus. line for the (original) Marathon run. It Finish with a stop at Greece’s largest measures 1 stade (600 Greek ft.), temple, which took some 650 years hence the word stadium, and origi- to build between 515 B.C. and A.D. nally held 50,000 people—the same 132. It measures 96 by 40m (315 by as the Roman Coliseum. Unfortu- 131 ft.) but only 15 of the original 104 nately, you can no longer go in, but columns are still standing, each 17m you can observe it from the facing (56 ft.) high. @ 45 min. Vas. Olgas St. square. For the 2004 Olympic & Amalias Ave. y 210/922-6330. Stadium, 37 Kifissias Ave. (y 210/ www.culture.gr. Admission 2 or part 683-4060; www.oaka.com.gr), with of Acropolis ticket. Daily 8am–5pm; the beautiful roof by Spaniard Santi- Apr–Oct 8am–7:30pm. Metro: Syn- ago Calatrava, head to Irini Metro tagma or Acropoli.

The Zappeion exhibition hall in the Zappeion Gardens is symmetrically arranged around a circular interior atrium.