PEDALING THE Story and Photos by Dennis Coello “The war can never be Grant took his ultimately successful but That was in late May 1863. Upon hear- remarkably roundabout path. ing the news that Vicksburg was under brought to a close until that Thousands of men were put to work siege, Confederate President Davis met with key is in our pocket.” digging a canal through ground on the General Robert E. Lee, asking if he could Louisiana side of the Mississippi. If the spare some troops to aid Pemberton. Lee -President Lincoln, pointing to banks held against the rising river, Admiral replied that he couldn’t, that he was plan- Vicksburg, Mississippi, on the map Porter’s boats could pass out of range of ning an offensive north into Pennsylvania. Vicksburg’s guns. But the river rose so He argued that his movement, and his t had been an Easter Egg day in fast it nearly put Sherman’s troops into successes, would relieve the pressure of the saddle, with near constant April the trees. Another channel was attempted any additional Union armies being sent to tailwinds blowing me south across that would link swamps, bayous, a lake, Grant. ground that was river-flat and newly and two rivers before flowing back into Thousands would die on both sides dur- green.I For the first time since I’d pedaled the Mississippi 150 miles below Vicksburg. ing the 47-day siege of the fortress on the out of St. Louis a week earlier, I’d stayed This too failed, as did the blowing up of Mississippi. The surrender took place on on the Trail (the MRT) a levee 200 miles north of Vicksburg and July 4, the same day Lee began his retreat consistently, enjoying a series of small two- riding the flood in gunboats down con- from Gettysburg. lane blacktopped backwater roads tucked necting rivers to a point behind the town’s As you might imagine from what you’ve between the river and the far-too-busy and guns. The “Northern-born but Southern- read thus far, pedaling all of Grant’s cam- sometimes no-shouldered “Blues Highway,” married” Confederate General Pemberton, paign route is impossible. Even riding US 61, to the east. commanded by Jefferson Davis to hold much of it is tough. His army required Subtract two hours of showers and this Vicksburg at all costs, blocked the Union both boats and horses; you’re going to Sunday ride would rate as perfect, made flotilla by sinking a steamer in its path and need two bikes — or one equipped with sweeter still by frequent stops to enjoy the erecting a fort behind it. tires that can handle both pavement and river views and gnaw on the chocolate rab- Back to the drawing board went Grant. dirt/gravel roads — and you’re also going bit in my handlebar bag. I was touring solo More attempts were made, more failed. to have to bum a ride across the Interstate but keeping mental company with the De Finally, giving up on the idea of attacking 20 bridge from Vicksburg to the Louisiana Soto expedition that came this way almost from above Vicksburg, Grant decided to side or drive. From a sweet lady behind the five centuries earlier. Or rather with the cut himself off from his base of supplies at counter at the Mississippi state Welcome half of the original 600 that remained alive Memphis (almost 300 winding river miles Center (very near the bridge), and from a after their murderous, gold-seeking four- north) and march his army south through huge highway patrolman who must have year trek north and west from Tampa Bay. Louisiana over squishy roads barely able thought that if he smiled he’d crack his They’d spent a winter making boats and in to support men and horses. He hoped that granite-chiseled chin, the message was the July of 1543 were paddling down this very enough of Admiral Porter’s gunboats and same: No exceptions to the rule of no stretch of the Mississippi toward the Gulf, transports could pass Vicksburg’s gauntlet cycling on that bridge. No way. No how. my own destination. Fascinating. on some moonless night to carry his army Nor is there a ferry. But there is a bridge But, by early evening, the fascination back east across the river to the Mississippi we can ride in Natchez, about 85 miles was wearing thin. I’d come almost 100 miles side, where he would then contend with farther south. I pedaled it when heading to (only the tailwinds and flat ground had Southern armies and attack Vicksburg from the Gulf in 2004 and found it smooth sail- allowed me to rack up far more than my the rear. ing. Still, that’s a long way around. Better usual distance), and I still had 11 miles to Finally, success. We can’t cross the river to beg your way across by approaching go. Unlike the , I had no plans where the army did, but we can ride the driver of a pickup or someone with a to capture Vicksburg. I just wanted to get Louisiana bayou roads to a marshy spot bike rack when you pull into the Welcome there in daylight. very close to where they embarked (direc- Center. Remember to smile. And I would have, had I not stopped Towering figures. Statues stand guard over Vicksburg National Military Park. tions shortly). But you’ll have to watch for Of course, it isn’t necessary to ride all twice to take some pictures in the misty alligators. of the route to get a feel for the battle, for twilight along Business 61 (Washington the heights above. Not a happy thought as badly by hungry Confederate armies in the His army outnumbered and living most- the terror of the siege, and for a fun taste Street) just beyond the north edge of town. one pedals into a town bone-tired, but at East, would not reach those troops. ly off the land, Grant confused Pemberton of current Mississippi culture and the way Walz Caps speak Years later, a bit better read, and aboard the least it would have taken my thoughts The goal was obvious, but Grant couldn’t by not striking due north to Vicksburg folks down there ladle out tales of their for themselves. a mountain bike, I would appreciate this off myself. march an army overland to Vicksburg from but fighting his way east instead toward past. Our wonderful What will yours say? remarkable spot for far more than its looks. While that failed attempt was com- the north due to flooded bayous, or from the state capital of Jackson, and taking it. has preserved a huge piece of the original On that April evening, I didn’t know manded by General Sherman, the overall the northeast due to distance and the pres- Assigning Sherman the task of burning nearly 10-mile arc of fortifications anchored about the Civil War fight of December Union commander to end the Vicksburg ence of enemy forces. The Union navy had anything of value to Southern armies, he to the river north and south of town. 1862, mounted from the Chickasaw bayou stranglehold on river traffic was led by failed in attempts to suppress Vicksburg’s then pivoted due west to invest Vicksburg, Bristling with cannon and abatis (an entan- to my right. Ignorance, therefore, kept me General Ulysses S. Grant. Smash this miles- cannon in an artillery duel from ironclad pinning Pemberton’s 30,000 troops inside glement of sharpened branches) and sharp- from imagining the mass of cannon and long gauntlet of huge, accurate cannon gunboats on the river, and human charges the town of 4,500 civilians. In two weeks eyed Confederate infantry, these defensive eager Confederate riflemen who, four days lining the bluffs with Union gunboats up the bluffs had been suicide. So a series of his army had marched 180 miles, fought works took full advantage of the hills and after Christmas, looked down from atop the would effectively split the Confederacy in additional “bayou experiments” were made. five major engagements, and lost half the hollows, the sharp ridges and steep ravines 300-foot-high Chickasaw Bluffs to my left two. Grain and other goods produced in Please bear with me, we’ll be back on 7,000 casualties he’d inflicted upon the for which you’ll gain an aerobic apprecia- and in two hours killed 1,800 men in blue the Southern states west of the Mississippi a bike soon, but to understand the final enemy. Not bad for a general considered by tion when pedaling the 16-mile paved road who swept across this very spot to storm (Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana), and needed campaign route, it’s necessary to know why the Northern press to be a drunk. through today’s battlefield.

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011/12 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011/12 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 As with its sister killing ground of reach it, as city residents cowered in hand- Gettysburg 1,000 miles north and east, be dug caves from the constant shelling and sure to pack some food for your battlefield ached for food. At the last, Confederate Nuts & Bolts: Riding Civil War History — Vicksburg ride. The more than 1,300 monuments, mark- troops were existing on one biscuit and a ers, and statues are going to slow you down, bit of bacon a day. When to ride: and the U.S.S. Cairo — one of the ironclad The free battlefield Official Map and Summertime is green and lovely, gunboats — and the museum next to it (con- Guide (available at the park Visitor’s Center but the combination of heat and veniently located halfway through the bat- and online at nps.gov) is excellent help humidity – and bugs – should tlefield loop) will stop you cold. It’s one thing for touring not only the park but also the make you choose another sea- to read about the size of these monsters (more town, and in reaching the site of Grant’s son. Autumn is excellent and than half a football field in length, wider Canal (the aborted attempt to dig a path comes late enough down here than a half-dozen city buses); it’s another to around the guns on the Vicksburg heights). that if work keeps you out of the park your bike next to one and stare. As that map shows, it’s not far across the saddle through fall somewhere Clay Street is the busy, fast-moving road river and just north of I-20. I drove to north, you can still enjoy that at the entrance to the battlefield, and it runs that spot on one of my two recent visits season by heading south. But straight downtown only two miles west. to pedal the sections of Grant’s campaign springtime (late March through You’ll want to bale off as soon as possible that I’d missed, leaving my car there to April) – when azaleas are to the parallel Grove Street north of Clay, ride US 80 west to Thomastown Road abloom and the trees are flower- which happily takes you past the Highway and north through flat fields to as close ing and the heavy, heavenly smell 61 Coffeehouse just a block from the water, to the site of the Milliken’s Bend battle as of honeysuckle wafts up as you and on down a steep hill to the flood wall you can get. Here, in an attempt at some ride past — there’s little that can with Robert Dafford’s 30-odd murals of relief for the besieged at Vicksburg, a compare. Vicksburg history. Don’t miss them. 1,400-man Texas brigade attacked a Union Ashbrook interviewing Winston Maps: will have you riding blind. I used A quick word about the water behind Mississippi lies two miles south, on the force of white and recently enlisted, poorly Books: Groom about this battle.) The Vicksburg National Military to find the MRT site – mississip- those murals: It is not the Mississippi but south edge of today’s expanded Vicksburg. trained black troops from nearby planta- l Bicycling Guide to the Park map is great for the park pirivertrail.org – easy to use and the less romantically named Yazoo River Before you head there, however, look up tions. The fight was at close quarters and Mississippi River Trail, by Bob l For a non-Civil War read that’s and good for an overall view extremely helpful, but now the Diversion Canal instead. The capricious at the old courthouse at the top of the hill. was occasionally hand-to-hand until the Robinson. Vicksburg, 1863, fantastic history, try Rising of the campaign, and like the maps are maddeningly difficult. Father of Waters changed course in 1876 Today, it’s almost exactly as it was a century Union ironclad Choctaw arrived to rake the by Winston Groom. (For an Tide: The Great Mississippi Natchez Trace Parkway map I hope it’s just me. Or maybe and left the city literally high and dry. The and a half ago when Union troops tried to Confederates with its guns. The Rebel com- almost hour-long audible taste Flood of 1927 and How It is available when you show up they’re designed that way to of this excellent book and Changed America, by John M. onsite and also via nps.gov. propel us to purchase Bob its interesting author, go to Barry. You’ll learn a lot about Google Maps is priceless for Robinson’s book. They didn’t onpoint.wbur.org and search the river and much about man- the detail it offers, but ask the need to for it’s worth the money. for Vicksburg. You’ll hear the kind. But read it at home. It tips locals if the dirt roads have kind and brainy moderator Tom the scales at 500 pages plus. gone liquid and if the river fog

mander reported, “The charge was resisted 20. Type “Delta, LA” into Google Maps, troops. They bivouacked there and headed by the negro portion of the enemy’s force then expand to find the network of nar- on to Hard Times Plantation, where they with considerable obstinacy.” Bad news row roads leading to the small town of boarded transports to cross the river to for the South, which had scoffed at the Newellton (roughly 30 miles south via the hamlet of Bruinsburg, 40 miles south thought that former slaves could stand in Hodge Road and your choice of other of Vicksburg and several miles south of battle against their recent owners. paths), then on south to Winter Quarters, the eight heavy cannon that had been Two great days of bayou road riding the only Civil War–era plantation in the mounted on a river bluff near the small lie south of Grant’s Canal and Interstate area to be spared the torch by Grant’s town of Grand Gulf. (There’s no cross-

Snack stop. Cyclists stop for vittles at an old country store on the Natchez Trace Parkway in Mississippi.

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011/12 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011/12 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 ing the Mississippi here, but camping is either side of the road, you’ll think few have allowed at nearby Lake Bruin State Park. been through since. Plan to spend some If you’re on a mountain bike, I suggest the time reading the displays outside the Shaifer short dirt-road ride through the jungle-like House along the way, especially the one backcountry to Yucatan Lake. Just don’t go about field surgery performed on the porch swimming. Big reptiles will want to play.) for those wounded as the Union fought Grant’s troops missed Grand Gulf, but its way through this forested, hilly coun- you really shouldn’t. You can reach it from tryside. Even after the horror and pain of Vicksburg by following the MRT signs out amputation, only half the sufferers survived. of town to the Natchez Trace (they’re easy As for other pieces of the wide-rang- to miss so have maps or a cue sheet with ing military trail to pedal, you can ride you), heading south past the neat ghost the Natchez Trace north to the Raymond town of Rocky Springs to Port Gibson (40 Battlefield and on into the capital of Jackson. miles from Vicksburg via the Trace), and But nothing there gave me a feeling of those pedaling another eight paved miles on a former terrible times of 1863 or improved two-lane road (you can camp at Rocky my understanding of the campaign. The Springs and Grand Gulf). ke vin mcmanigal Chickasaw Bayou battlefield did, though. There’s a short paved road to the It’s that place I’d passed when riding into Mississippi River directly across from the as they marched east from their landing were like back then. 13 miles from town Vicksburg on an April evening years before. entrance to Grand Gulf Military Monument, point of Bruinsburg. (Pedal west on the on Rodney/552, you’ll come to old Bethel This time, aboard a mountain bike, I but old Fort Cobun another mile west made two-lane blacktopped 552 — also called Church at Russum Westside Road. If you’re took a left onto Long Lake Road on the me feel closest to the men who manned the Rodney Road — from downtown; take on a mountain bike, and if there haven’t north edge of town, off Business 61 just Architectural reminder. The Illinois Monument was modeled after the Roman Pantheon. cannon. The heavy mist just after daybreak Carroll Street off Main to reach it. There’s a been any gullywashers lately, hang a left. past the National Cemetery (a resting place felt cool even as I mountain biked up the Piggly Wiggly grocery a block south; you’ll The connecting roads you want to follow for more Civil War dead than anywhere once called the Walnut Hills for the trees at Dennis Coello continues to combine his love of steep and leafy dirt and rock road to where find no stores where you’re headed.) back to Port Gibson are Shaifer next and else in the nation). I rode slowly, knowing the top, and home long ago to the Natchez history and photography with cycling. Where this the guns had been emplaced. Rodney Road/552 circles all the way Bessie Weathers after that, a left both times the loop was only a dozen miles long, past and Choctaw tribes. Then came forts built takes him next, we don’t yet know. Find out more about Dennis at denniscoello.com. Another road out of Port Gibson allows around to the Trace, but do this and when those dirt roads intersect. You’ll see brush-shrouded Alligator Lake and tree- by the Spanish, and the French, and then you to ride past Windsor Ruins, huge you’ll miss the far more memorable route historic markers for the army’s march, and lined, swampy-looking marshland. As the the Americans, before they divided north columns that once adorned a plantation Grant’s army took toward Port Gibson — after miles of dodging branches and look- dirt and sometimes crumbled pavement and south. Without victory at Vicksburg, on one of the routes Grant’s men took and the most realistic taste of what roads ing at 15-foot-high overgrown dirt walls on road looped east, I looked up at the bluffs, they might have stayed that way.

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