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PEDALING THE VICKSBURG CAMPAIGN Story and Photos by Dennis Coello “The war can never be Grant took his ultimately successful but That was in late May 1863. Upon hear- remarkably roundabout path. ing the news that Vicksburg was under brought to a close until that Thousands of men were put to work siege, Confederate President Davis met with key is in our pocket.” digging a canal through ground on the General Robert E. Lee, asking if he could Louisiana side of the Mississippi. If the spare some troops to aid Pemberton. Lee -President Lincoln, pointing to banks held against the rising river, Admiral replied that he couldn’t, that he was plan- Vicksburg, Mississippi, on the map Porter’s boats could pass out of range of ning an offensive north into Pennsylvania. Vicksburg’s guns. But the river rose so He argued that his movement, and his t had been an Easter Egg day in fast it nearly put Sherman’s troops into successes, would relieve the pressure of the saddle, with near constant April the trees. Another channel was attempted any additional Union armies being sent to tailwinds blowing me south across that would link swamps, bayous, a lake, Grant. ground that was river-flat and newly and two rivers before flowing back into Thousands would die on both sides dur- Igreen. For the first time since I’d pedaled the Mississippi 150 miles below Vicksburg. ing the 47-day siege of the fortress on the out of St. Louis a week earlier, I’d stayed This too failed, as did the blowing up of Mississippi. The surrender took place on on the Mississippi River Trail (the MRT) a levee 200 miles north of Vicksburg and July 4, the same day Lee began his retreat consistently, enjoying a series of small two- riding the flood in gunboats down con- from Gettysburg. lane blacktopped backwater roads tucked necting rivers to a point behind the town’s As you might imagine from what you’ve between the river and the far-too-busy and guns. The “Northern-born but Southern- read thus far, pedaling all of Grant’s cam- sometimes no-shouldered “Blues Highway,” married” Confederate General Pemberton, paign route is impossible. Even riding US 61, to the east. commanded by Jefferson Davis to hold much of it is tough. His army required Subtract two hours of showers and this Vicksburg at all costs, blocked the Union both boats and horses; you’re going to Sunday ride would rate as perfect, made flotilla by sinking a steamer in its path and need two bikes — or one equipped with sweeter still by frequent stops to enjoy the erecting a fort behind it. tires that can handle both pavement and river views and gnaw on the chocolate rab- Back to the drawing board went Grant. dirt/gravel roads — and you’re also going bit in my handlebar bag. I was touring solo More attempts were made, more failed. to have to bum a ride across the Interstate but keeping mental company with the De Finally, giving up on the idea of attacking 20 bridge from Vicksburg to the Louisiana Soto expedition that came this way almost from above Vicksburg, Grant decided to side or drive. From a sweet lady behind the five centuries earlier. Or rather with the cut himself off from his base of supplies at counter at the Mississippi state Welcome half of the original 600 that remained alive Memphis (almost 300 winding river miles Center (very near the bridge), and from a after their murderous, gold-seeking four- north) and march his army south through huge highway patrolman who must have year trek north and west from Tampa Bay. Louisiana over squishy roads barely able thought that if he smiled he’d crack his They’d spent a winter making boats and in to support men and horses. He hoped that granite-chiseled chin, the message was the July of 1543 were paddling down this very enough of Admiral Porter’s gunboats and same: No exceptions to the rule of no stretch of the Mississippi toward the Gulf, transports could pass Vicksburg’s gauntlet cycling on that bridge. No way. No how. my own destination. Fascinating. on some moonless night to carry his army Nor is there a ferry. But there is a bridge But, by early evening, the fascination back east across the river to the Mississippi we can ride in Natchez, about 85 miles was wearing thin. I’d come almost 100 miles side, where he would then contend with farther south. I pedaled it when heading to (only the tailwinds and flat ground had Southern armies and attack Vicksburg from the Gulf in 2004 and found it smooth sail- allowed me to rack up far more than my the rear. ing. Still, that’s a long way around. Better usual distance), and I still had 11 miles to Finally, success. We can’t cross the river to beg your way across by approaching go. Unlike the Union Army, I had no plans where the army did, but we can ride the driver of a pickup or someone with a to capture Vicksburg. I just wanted to get Louisiana bayou roads to a marshy spot bike rack when you pull into the Welcome there in daylight. very close to where they embarked (direc- Center. Remember to smile. And I would have, had I not stopped Towering figures. Statues stand guard over Vicksburg National Military Park. tions shortly). But you’ll have to watch for Of course, it isn’t necessary to ride all twice to take some pictures in the misty alligators. of the route to get a feel for the battle, for twilight along Business 61 (Washington the heights above. Not a happy thought as badly by hungry Confederate armies in the His army outnumbered and living most- the terror of the siege, and for a fun taste Street) just beyond the north edge of town. one pedals into a town bone-tired, but at East, would not reach those troops. ly off the land, Grant confused Pemberton of current Mississippi culture and the way Walz Caps speak Years later, a bit better read, and aboard the least it would have taken my thoughts The goal was obvious, but Grant couldn’t by not striking due north to Vicksburg folks down there ladle out tales of their for themselves. a mountain bike, I would appreciate this off myself. march an army overland to Vicksburg from but fighting his way east instead toward past. Our wonderful National Park Service What will yours say? remarkable spot for far more than its looks. While that failed attempt was com- the north due to flooded bayous, or from the state capital of Jackson, and taking it. has preserved a huge piece of the original On that April evening, I didn’t know manded by General Sherman, the overall the northeast due to distance and the pres- Assigning Sherman the task of burning nearly 10-mile arc of fortifications anchored about the Civil War fight of December Union commander to end the Vicksburg ence of enemy forces. The Union navy had anything of value to Southern armies, he to the river north and south of town. 1862, mounted from the Chickasaw bayou stranglehold on river traffic was led by failed in attempts to suppress Vicksburg’s then pivoted due west to invest Vicksburg, Bristling with cannon and abatis (an entan- to my right. Ignorance, therefore, kept me General Ulysses S. Grant. Smash this miles- cannon in an artillery duel from ironclad pinning Pemberton’s 30,000 troops inside glement of sharpened branches) and sharp- from imagining the mass of cannon and long gauntlet of huge, accurate cannon gunboats on the river, and human charges the town of 4,500 civilians. In two weeks eyed Confederate infantry, these defensive eager Confederate riflemen who, four days lining the bluffs with Union gunboats up the bluffs had been suicide. So a series of his army had marched 180 miles, fought works took full advantage of the hills and after Christmas, looked down from atop the would effectively split the Confederacy in additional “bayou experiments” were made. five major engagements, and lost half the hollows, the sharp ridges and steep ravines 300-foot-high Chickasaw Bluffs to my left two. Grain and other goods produced in Please bear with me, we’ll be back on 7,000 casualties he’d inflicted upon the for which you’ll gain an aerobic apprecia- and in two hours killed 1,800 men in blue the Southern states west of the Mississippi a bike soon, but to understand the final enemy. Not bad for a general considered by tion when pedaling the 16-mile paved road who swept across this very spot to storm (Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana), and needed campaign route, it’s necessary to know why the Northern press to be a drunk. through today’s battlefield. 12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011/12 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST DECEMBER/JANUARY 2011/12 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 As with its sister killing ground of reach it, as city residents cowered in hand- Gettysburg 1,000 miles north and east, be dug caves from the constant shelling and sure to pack some food for your battlefield ached for food. At the last, Confederate Nuts & Bolts: Riding Civil War History — Vicksburg ride. The more than 1,300 monuments, mark- troops were existing on one biscuit and a ers, and statues are going to slow you down, bit of bacon a day. When to ride: and the U.S.S.

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