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Let the Holidays Begin! Big,Bold Jewels Your Own Shopping the World
D D NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER Big, Bold Your Own Shopping ...Let the Jewels Private Caribbean the World Holidays Begin! p236 p66 p148 PERSONALBEST the business of scent A Whiff of Something Real As mass-produced perfumes become the new normal, the origin of a fragrance is more important than ever. TINA GAUDOIN reports from Grasse, the ancient home of perfume and the jasmine fields of Chanel No 5. oseph Mul drives his battered pickup into the dusty, rutted field of Jasminum gran- diflorum shrubs. It is 9 A.M. on a warm, slightly overcast September morning in Pégomas in southern France, about four miles from Grasse, the ancient home of Jperfume. In front of Mul’s truck, which is making easy work of the tough ter- rain, a small army of colorfully dressed pickers, most hailing from Eastern Europe, fans out, backs bent in pursuit of the elusive jasmine bloom that flowers over- night and must be harvested from the three-foot-high bushes before noon. By lunchtime, the petals will have been weighed by Mul, the numbers noted in the ledger (bonuses are paid by the kilo), and the pickers, who have been working since before dawn, will retire for a meal and a nap. Not so for Mul, who will oversee the beginnings of the lengthy distillation technique of turning the blooms into jasmine absolute, the essential oil and vital in- gredient in the world’s most famous and best- selling fragrance: Chanel No 5. All told, it’s a labor-intensive process. One picker takes roughly an hour to harvest one pound of jasmine; 772 pounds are required to make two pounds of concrete—the solution ARCHIVE ! WICKHAM/TRUNK ! MICHAEL !"! LTD ! NAST ! The post–World War II era marked the beginning of mass fragrance, when women wore perfume for more than just special occasions. -
Perfumes Míticos
PERFUMES MÍTICOS A la venta desde octubre de 2012 «Su perfume olía a perfume, igual que los demás perfumes. Pero en ella parecía un olor natural.» (Simone de Beauvoir Los mandarines, 1954) PERFUMES MÍTICOS Marie Bénédicte Gauthier Un exquisito libro con la historia de los perfumes más emblemáticos y un sinfín de sugerencias para elegir una fragancia. Lleno de anécdotas sobre cómo y para quién se creó cada perfume, cómo distinguirlos o quién es o ha sido su imagen. ¿A qué olía Marilín? ¿Qué perfume era el preferido de Robert Reford o de Grace Kelly? ¿cuál fue el primer perfume para hombre y mujer?... Hay perfumes que cuentan historias y que evocan sentimientos y deseos. Muchos de ellos mantienen un vínculo muy afectivo, transmitido de generación en generación, que convocan en ese sentido el recuerdo de las personas queridas. Los perfumes míticos son un condensado de sensibilidad: algunos fueron creados hace más de un siglo pero siguen encerrando una enorme belleza en su diminuto frasco. Hay perfumes que forman parte de la historia del cine, otros “visten” habitualmente a grandes estrellas, los hay que forman parte de los museos de arte, y hay algunos que son famosos principalmente por un envase que está más allá de una “botellita” de diseño más o menos atractivo. Este precioso libro objeto, de cuidado diseño, narra la historia de los perfumes más míticos, además de desvelarnos todos los detalles de sus fórmulas y un sinfín de sugerencias útiles para escoger la esencia que mejor reafirme nuestra propia personalidad. Son setenta perfumes, cada uno con su ficha, en la que se detallan las notas de salida, corazón y fondo del perfume con un lenguaje ameno, además de algunas indicaciones para saber para quién está hecho el perfume y cómo llevarlo. -
Dense Representation of Natural Odorants in the Mouse Olfactory Bulb
BRIEF COMMUNICATIONS Dense representation of Online Methods), leading to a reduced number of activated glomeruli (n = 6 odorant-mouse pairs, paired t test, P < 0.005; Fig. 1e). natural odorants in the mouse We then applied 40 different natural odorants using the olfactom- eter to minimize the animal’s stress and to have a better temporal olfactory bulb control of the odorant application. In all of the mice that we tested (n = 8), every odorant evoked a specific dense pattern of glomerular Roberto Vincis1,2, Olivier Gschwend1–3, Khaleel Bhaukaurally1–3, activity (Fig. 2a and Supplementary Fig. 1). For each odorant, we Jonathan Beroud1,2 & Alan Carleton1,2 analyzed the image sequence (Online Methods and Supplementary Fig. 2) and quantified the number of activated glomeruli (Fig. 2b In mammals, odorant molecules are thought to activate and Supplementary Fig. 3). We found that the number of activated only a few glomeruli, leading to the hypothesis that odor glomeruli for each stimulus ranged between 10 and 40 glomeruli representation in the olfactory bulb is sparse. However, the (Fig. 2b). For the same set of 30 natural stimuli, the total number of studies supporting this model used anesthetized animals or activated glomeruli per olfactory bulb was 443 ± 15 glomeruli (n = 5 monomolecular odorants at limited concentration ranges. mice; Fig. 2c,d). By merging the glomeruli activated by several odor- Using optical imaging and two-photon microscopy, we found ants (Online Methods), we obtained a map composed of glomeruli that natural odorants at their native concentrations could elicit with a unique identity showing that the natural odorants that we dense representations in the olfactory bulb. -
Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: a Case Study
Argumentum. Journal of the Seminar of Discursive Logic, Argumentation Theory and Rhetoric 16 (1): 80-93, 2018 Brînduşa-Mariana AMALANCEI “Vasile Alecsandri” University of Bacău (Romania) Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: A Case Study Abstract: The analysis of a perfume advertising image can be done from multiple perspectives, the endeavors to provide possible reading paths and interpretations being among the most diverse in the literature. Whether it is to meet the consumers’ psychological desires, to relate to fashion trends, or to create a rare scent, perfume advertising is a real challenge, which often needs to be answered just by juxtaposing an image and the product name. Our paper highlights the way in which the correlation between the visual and olfactory forms of perfumes is attempted, through product name, vial, characters, context and text (Julien 1997). Because in many advertisements the perfume is replacing the character, we chose as a case study an advertising image that we consider illustrating in this respect, that of the new olfactory creation of Chanel, Gabrielle, which appeared in September 2017. We have to mention that the launch of this product has been marked by the appearance of homage articles in glossy magazines, which contributes, through the information provided, to a better understanding of the message the advertisement transmits. Keywords: image, visual identity, olfactory concept, olfactory memory, brand name, perfume name, perfume bottle, advertising context 1. Fragrances ‒ Vectors of Communication Considered a privileged way of communication, perfumes are an identity mark (Vettraino-Soulard 1992, 106). We can often hear in advertisements about perfumes for strong women, perfumes that suit active women, perfumes for romantic women, etc. -
Single Olfactory Receptors Set Odor Detection Thresholds
City University of New York (CUNY) CUNY Academic Works Publications and Research Hunter College 2018 Single olfactory receptors set odor detection thresholds Adam Dewan Northwestern University Annika Cichy Northwestern University Jingji Zhang Northwestern University Kayla Miguel Northwestern University Paul Feinstein CUNY Hunter College See next page for additional authors How does access to this work benefit ou?y Let us know! More information about this work at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/hc_pubs/550 Discover additional works at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu This work is made publicly available by the City University of New York (CUNY). Contact: [email protected] Authors Adam Dewan, Annika Cichy, Jingji Zhang, Kayla Miguel, Paul Feinstein, Dmitry Rinberg, and Thomas Bozza This article is available at CUNY Academic Works: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/hc_pubs/550 ARTICLE DOI: 10.1038/s41467-018-05129-0 OPEN Single olfactory receptors set odor detection thresholds Adam Dewan1, Annika Cichy1, Jingji Zhang1, Kayla Miguel1, Paul Feinstein2, Dmitry Rinberg3 & Thomas Bozza 1 In many species, survival depends on olfaction, yet the mechanisms that underlie olfactory sensitivity are not well understood. Here we examine how a conserved subset of olfactory receptors, the trace amine-associated receptors (TAARs), determine odor detection fi 1234567890():,; thresholds of mice to amines. We nd that deleting all TAARs, or even single TAARs, results in significant odor detection deficits. This finding is not limited to TAARs, as the deletion of a canonical odorant receptor reduced behavioral sensitivity to its preferred ligand. Remarkably, behavioral threshold is set solely by the most sensitive receptor, with no contribution from other highly sensitive receptors. -
Poison in Pink
University of Montana ScholarWorks at University of Montana Graduate Student Theses, Dissertations, & Professional Papers Graduate School 2017 Poison in Pink Sydney V. Cook University of Montana, Missoula Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.umt.edu/etd Part of the Business Law, Public Responsibility, and Ethics Commons, Environmental Health Commons, Environmental Policy Commons, Environmental Public Health Commons, Environmental Studies Commons, Health Policy Commons, Inequality and Stratification Commons, Nonfiction Commons, Other Life Sciences Commons, Other Pharmacology, Toxicology and Environmental Health Commons, Other Public Health Commons, Public Policy Commons, Social Policy Commons, Toxicology Commons, Women's Health Commons, Women's Studies Commons, and the Work, Economy and Organizations Commons Let us know how access to this document benefits ou.y Recommended Citation Cook, Sydney V., "Poison in Pink" (2017). Graduate Student Theses, Dissertations, & Professional Papers. 11047. https://scholarworks.umt.edu/etd/11047 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at ScholarWorks at University of Montana. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Student Theses, Dissertations, & Professional Papers by an authorized administrator of ScholarWorks at University of Montana. For more information, please contact [email protected]. POISON IN PINK By SYDNEY VIOLET COOK Bachelor of Arts, Biology, Coe College, Cedar Rapids, Iowa, U.S.A, 2012 Thesis presented in partial fulfillment -
Serendipity Est Transcrit Comme « Le Don De Faire Des Trouvailles »
DE LA SÉRENDIPITÉ Libres sciences Pek van Andel Danièle Bourcier DE LA SÉRENDIPITÉ DANS LA SCIENCE, LA TECHNIQUE, L’ART ET LE DROIT Leçons de l’inattendu L’’AC T MEM LIBRES SCIENCES COLLECTION Libres sciences Les livres de la collection sont sous licenses Creative Commons dirigée par Danièle Bourcier éditée par Annette Colliot-Thélène & Henri Poncet Les auteurs remercient toutes les personnes et institutions qui ont soutenu leur étude, en particulier : - le NIAS (Netherlands Institute for Advanced Sudies in Social Sciences), vrai lieu de sérendipité institutionalisée et de liberté académique; - la Faculté des Sciences Médicales de l’Université de Groningue, et son photographe scientifique Dick Huizinga; ainsi que Jan Worst, chirurgien de l’œil, qui, avec P. v. Andel, a inventé une cornée artificielle (“bouchon de champagne”) déjà implantée 3000 fois au Daljit Singh Eye Hospital à Amritsar (Inde). - le CNRS: le Centre de recherche en Sciences administratives et politiques à Paris et le Centre Marc Bloch à Berlin, où les dernières étapes de ce livre ont été élaborées; - Estelle Lambert, Conservateur au Service d’Histoire de la Médecine, Bibliothèque interuniversitaire de médecine (BIUM), Université de Paris IV. [email protected] [email protected] L’ACT MEM, 2009 www.fr.creativecommons.org Préface La sérendipité est un mot qui n’est pas toujours facile à mémoriser et à prononcer. De plus, il ne figure pas – encore – dans les dictionnaires français. Et pourtant, l’expérience montre qu’il plaît beaucoup. Chaque fois que j’en ai expliqué le sens, mes interlocuteurs se sont montrés très intéressés, quitte à me téléphoner quelques jours plus tard pour que je leur reprécise l’orthographe du mot, car ils avaient trouvé une situation qui relevait de cette notion. -
THE SECTRET of for the First Time, a Couturier Revolu- Cionizes the Insular World of Perfume by Creating in 1921 Her Own Fragrance, the First of Its Kind
THE SECTRET OF For the first time, a couturier revolu- cionizes the insular world of perfume by creating in 1921 her own fragrance, the first of its kind. Coco Chanel seeks, in her own words, “ a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent.” Her scent should be as important as her style of dress. Coco Chanel calls upon Ernest Beaux, perfumer to the Czars. In search of inspiration, Ernest Beaux ven- tures as far as the Arctic circle, finding his muse in the exhilarating air issuing from the northern lakes under the midnight sun. The couturier encourages him to be ever more audacious, demanding still more jasmine, the most precious of essences. He composes a bouquet of over 80 scents for her. An abstract, mysterious perfume radiaing an extravagance floral richness. For the first time, No5 transforms the alchemy of scent, through Ernest Beauxe’s innovtive use of al- dehydes, synthetic components which exalt perfumes, like lemon which accentuates the taste of strawberry. Aldehydes add layers of complexity, making No5 even more mysteri- ous and impsible to decipher. No5, a code, an identification number, makes the sentimental names for the perfumes of the day seem in- stantly out of date. It receives its name because Mademoiselle chanel prefers the fifth sample Ernes Beaux presents to her. For the first time, a perfume is presented in a simple laboratory flacon. From the United States to japan, the fragrance’s fame spreads, it soon becomes the best-selling perfume in the world. No5 pioneers a new form of advertising in the world of fragrance. -
Parfum, Chimie Et Création Xavier Fernandez, Sylvain Antoniotti, Éric Bussotti Et Marie-Patricia Hurel
Chimie et physico-chimie des matières premières Parfum, chimie et création Xavier Fernandez, Sylvain Antoniotti, Éric Bussotti et Marie-Patricia Hurel Résumé Le parfum est un produit fascinant dont la création associe l’art, des connaissances empiriques et la science. Sa formule est issue du mélange de plusieurs dizaines de composés odorants et extraits naturels (le concentré de parfum) dans de l’éthanol. L’examen de l’histoire du parfum à travers les siècles montre le rôle capital joué par la chimie. L’obtention de solvants organiques purs mais surtout la mise à disposition de composés odorants synthétiques ont complètement bouleversé la parfumerie pour conduire aux parfums modernes, compagnons quotidiens de notre vie. Mots-clés Parfum, odeur, formulation, accord, extraits naturels, synthèse organique. Abstract Perfume, chemistry and creation The perfume is a fascinating material whose creation is guided by art, empirical knowledge and science. Its formula arises from the mixture of dozens of odorant compounds and natural extracts in ethanol. An overview of the history of perfumes across the centuries shows the central role of chemistry. The manufacture of solvents of high purity and the chemical synthesis of key-odorants have dramatically influenced perfumery, leading to modern fragrances, daily companions of our lives. Keywords Perfume, fragrance, formulation, harmony, natural extracts, organic synthesis. e mot parfum tire son origine du latin per fumum d’un concentré de parfum ou jus (15 à 30 %) dans de l’alcool L signifiant « par la fumée », en référence à la première éthylique à 90°. Cependant pour le grand public, le terme méthode connue d’obtention de fragrances subtiles par parfum est plus ambigu puisqu’il fait référence à une odeur combustion de gommes ou de résines (myrrhe, encens) aussi bien qu’à divers produits (parfum, soie de parfum*, eau récoltées sur des arbres de la famille des burseracées [1]. -
Prof. Dr. Med. Th. Zahnert Die Olfaktorische Wahrnehmung Von Bour
Aus der Klinik für Hals-, Nasen und Ohrenheilkunde Direktor: Prof. Dr. med. Th. Zahnert Die olfaktorische Wahrnehmung von Bourgeonal durch infertile und fertile Männer und Genotypisierung des Bourgeonalrezeptors hOR 17-4 Dissertationsschrift zur Erlangung eines doctor medicinae (Dr. med.) der Medizinischen Fakultät Carl Gustav Carus der Technischen Universität Dresden vorgelegt von Eva Kemper aus Würselen Berlin 2014 1. Gutachter: 2. Gutachter: Tag der mündlichen Prüfung: gez: ------------------------------------------------- Vorsitzender der Promotionskommission I Inhaltsverzeichnis 1. Einleitung................................................................................................................................. 1 1.1. Hintergrund ...................................................................................................................... 1 1.2. Problemstellung ............................................................................................................... 2 1.3. Grundlagen ...................................................................................................................... 2 1.3.1. Der Geruchssinn ........................................................................................................ 2 1.3.2. Das menschliche Riechrezeptorrepertoire ............................................................... 4 1.3.3. Ektopische Expression olfaktorischer Rezeptoren und Spermien-chemotaxis ....... 5 1.3.4. Der olfaktorische Rezeptor hOR 17-4 ...................................................................... -
Famous Cosmetics Industry Entrepreuners
Famous Individuals Who Made Contributions to the Cosmetics Industry https://www.popsugar.com/beauty/11-People-Who-Changed-Cosmetics-Industry-15112684 Lawrence and Joan Gelb — This couple founded Clairol, bringing the first one-step hair color to salons and, more importantly, the first do-it-yourself permanent color to American homes. Madam C.J. Walker — Ms. Walker, née Sarah Breedlove, was not only a pioneer in the haircare industry and a champion for African-American rights, she was also the first female self-made millionaire. Eugene Rimmel — Rimmel is the man who changed billions of eyelashes by inventing the first commercially available mascara. To this day, "rimmel" is still the word for mascara in languages ranging from Italian to Turkish. Florence Nightingale Graham — Graham is the woman who founded Elizabeth Arden and invented the concept of the makeover. Reality television will be forever in her debt. Estée Lauder— We all have Ms. Lauder to thank for the freebies at modern makeup counters. Not only did the woman innovate department store makeup kiosks, she was also known for courting celebrity endorsements by sending stars her products, and for being a tireless saleswoman. Charles Revson — Revlon's founder made his mark by giving women a whole array of nail polish shades that had previously been unavailable, and then created matching lipstick shades so that women could coordinate their makeup perfectly. Helena Rubinstein — She invented the concept of "problem skin," introduced fancy packaging and status anxiety to modern mass beauty sales, and sold to women's self- consciousness. So every time an ad tries to scare you with aging concerns, feel free to consider this brilliant and merciless businesswoman ruefully. -
Olfactory Workshops by Osmothèque
Olfactory Workshops By Osmothèque Designed for fragrance industry professionals Fougère Royale (1884) HOUBIGANT, Le Fruit Défendu (1914) ROSINE, Chypre (1917) COTY, Crêpe de Chine (1925) MILLOT, Iris Gris (1947) FATH,… Osmothèque: the beginnings From the Greek osme - odor and thêkê - place, the Osmothèque was inaugurated over 20 years ago, in 1990. It has since become the one-of-a- kind olfactory archives that to this day remains unique in the world. The idea of a “Maison des Parfums” (Home of Perfumes) was under evaluation by the technical commission of the Société Française des Parfumeurs for years. The aim was to create a place where professionals and fragrance lovers could rediscover the perfumes they had once known and loved. In addition, the institution was to devote itself to scents long forgotten, to become the only place where lost or discontinued fragrances could be reproduced, classified and archived. In order to realize such an ambitious project, several passionate perfumers, members of the commission, had to show a great deal of commitment and determination. Together they set to revive lost perfumes, creating their records and thus protecting the heritage of the fragrance industry. Those pioneers collected some 400 fragrances, of which 70 were already at the time discontinued. Two institutions have been enthusiastically and determinedly supporting the project: the Comité Français du Parfum (CFP) and the Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Versailles Val d’Oise-Yvelines (CCIV). Thanks to their financial support, the Osmothèque has grown over the years... Jean Kerléo, Osmothèque’s Funder Osmothèque Our nowadays most popular The only place in the world where you can scent lost fragrances WORKSHOPS that once embodied an era.