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WWDEYE ON THE INSIDE SCOOP

GIRLS OF FALL SOPHIE OKONEDO ZOE K AZAN ALEXA CHUNG JENNIFER CARPENTER AND MORE AUERMANN AND WEBB POST-RUNWAY LIFE GOES ON THE DIARIES SO LONG TO THE KILLER B’S, J.LO LEADS THE A-LIST BACK TO THE SHOWS.

SONIA RYKIEL’S LEFT BANK

PLUS BACKSTAGE SNAPS ILLUSTRATION MAN LE BERNARDIN SPROUTS DR. DENIS LEARY THE $1 MILLION CAR AT PLAY DOWN UNDER shop at lancome-usa.com DNR_FN spread.indd 2 8/28/08 12:10:48 PM DNR_FN spread.indd 3 8/28/08 12:11:19 PM havaianasus.com

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60 CONTENTS

WATCH OUT 40 HEAD CASE 16 MARK YOUR CALENDARS: Art in Hats are Stephen Jones’ top priority. , nostalgia in and couture in Chicago. 42 WHAT WAS YOUR BIGGEST FASHION FAUX PAS? EYE OPENERS The most embarrassing moments of the chic set.

18 UNDER THE COVERS 43 DISASTER AREA From skateboarders to soccer players, dogs to …Then again, some people just never learn. ON THE COVER: , tycoons, books that speak volumes. photographed by Steve Eichner, front row at 20 GIRLS OF FALL ARTS & PEOPLE Diane von Furstenberg. The leaves are changing, and so, too, are the starlets to watch. 44 STRANGER THAN FICTION Philippe Parreno brings magic to his art.

FASHION 46 GRECIAN FORMULA Hydra inspires Demetri Gassoumis. 26 THE FASHION DIARIES The A-list returns to . 48 DRAWING THE LINE David Downton helps revive fashion illustration. 36 SNAP HAPPY Iekeliene Stange struts her stuff…off the catwalk. 50 THE ART OF MOVEMENT New York galleries set up shop in China. 38 MOMENTS and Nadja Auermann in the 52 PAGING DR. LEARY spotlight again. The comedian has a brand-new title. 74 WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. SEPTEMBER 29, 2008, VOLUME 196, NO. 67. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 , New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/ CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North , CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S p WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

8 WWDscoop © D.YURMAN 2008 CHICAGO AUSTIN ATLANTA HOUSTON KING OF PRUSSIA BOSTON DALLAS E OK BVRYHLS A EA BLHROR WESTCHESTER BAL HARBOUR LASVEGAS BEVERLY HILLS NEW YORK ORLANDO MANHASSETSOUTH COAST PLAZA DAVIDYURMAN.COM CONTENTS 44 36

54 A FOREIGN AFFAIR 66 LOCAL HERO Author Diane Johnson heads to Morocco. Iori & Co. treats travelers to a slice of Japanese life.

55 THE PLOT THICKENS 67 THE LAND BEFORE TIME Iraq and family are the focus for playwright Craig Lucas. Brazil’s Pousada Teto do Cafundo is where time stands still.

DESIGN PLATS DU JOUR 56 EXTREME MACHINE Lamborghini unveils the $1.5 million Reventón. 68 THEY ARE EATING Pumpkin recipes ripe for the picking. 57 JOIN THE MEDICIS Florence gears up for a private club. 70 REALITY BITES A behind-the-scenes at Le Bernardin. 58 TO LIVE AND DESIGN IN L.A. 48 Architecture firm Oyler Wu makes its mark. 71 EASY AS PIE Sophie Dudemaine translates Alain Ducasse.

CITY SCENES BEAUTY 60 BRUSSELS SPROUTS The once drab Belgian capital blossoms into an 72 LIFE AFTER BOB international contender. The season’s hairstyle is a cut above the rest.

62 AUSSIE ODYSSEY Southern Highlands draws Australia’s TAKEAWAY fashion and chic set. 74 BANK NOTES 64 MO‘ MONEY celebrates 40 years on the Rive Gauche. 68 The rich and powerful keep playing in Monaco. 66 40

57 20 10 WWDscoop BOUTIQUES • 800.550.0005 • CHANEL.COM ® A , Inc. ® ©2008 CHANEL WWDEYE ON THE INSIDE SCOOP Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017

EDWARD NARDOZA Editor in Chief

PETE BORN Executive Editor, Beauty

BRIDGET FOLEY Executive Editor

JAMES FALLON Editor

RICHARD ROSEN Managing Editor

DIANNE M. POGODA Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports

MILES SOCHA European Editor

EMILY HOLT Eye Editor

NANCY SIDEWATER Consulting Editor p ELISA LIPSKY-KARASZ JENNY B. FINE JACOB BERNSTEIN AMANDA KAISER Deputy Eye Editor Associate Editor Features Writer, Eye/Media Asian Editor VANESSA LAWRENCE CARRIE PROVENZANO SAMANTHA CONTI ALESSANDRA ILARI Associate Eye Editor Photo Editor Bureau Chief, Bureau Chief, Milan ROBERT MURPHY MARCY MEDINA SHARON EDELSON ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Paris Correspondent Bureau Chief, Senior Editor New York Correspondent KAREN MARTA VENESSA LAU MOLLY PRIOR AMANDA FITZSIMONS Contributing Editor New York Correspondent Beauty Features Editor Eye Reporter

ETTA FROIO, Contributing Senior Executive Editor JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, Contributing Editor at Large

Correspondents New York: (News) Senior Editors: LISA LOCKWOOD, DAVID MOIN, ARTHUR FRIEDMAN, ARNOLD J. KARR Writers: MARC KARIMZADEH, VALERIE SECKLER, SOPHIA CHABBOTT, CAROLINE TELL, KARYN MONGET, WHITNEY BECKETT, JULEE KAPLAN, ROSS TUCKER, CECILY HALL, CATE T. CORCORAN, VICKI M. YOUNG, EVAN CLARK, MATTHEW LYNCH, ALEXANDRA STEIGARD, WILLIAM COTTO, MICHAEL AGOSTA, IRIN CARMON, STEPHANIE D. SMITH, AMY WICKS, DICK SILVERMAN, TARA BONET- Fashion: LORNA KOSKI, BOBBI QUEEN, ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT, FRIDAY, BETH KWON, JESSICA IREDALE, SARAH HAIGHT, ANTONIA SARDONE, SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF, MAYTE ALLENDE, CINNAMON ST. JOHN, COURT WILLIAMS; HUBERT INNOCENT (DIRECTOR OF FAIRCHILD NEWS SERVICES) Beauty: JULIE NAUGHTON, ANDREA NAGEL, MATTHEW W. EVANS, MICHELLE EDGAR Atlanta: GEORGIA LEE, ELIZABETH THURMAN Berlin: MELISSA DRIER, DAMIEN MCGUINNESS Boston: KATHERINE BOWERS Dallas: HOLLY HABER, RUSTY WILLIAMSON : CONSTANCE HAISMA-KWOK : SUNA ERDEM London: NINA JONES, LOUISE BARTLETT, BRID COSTELLO Los Angeles: LEILA BABOI, RACHEL BROWN, HELLIN KAY, ANNE RILEY-KATZ, KHANH T.L. TRAN Madrid: BARBARA BARKER Milan: LUISA ZARGANI, ANDREW ROBERTS, VANESSA SILVA Moscow: ALISTAIR GEE Pakistan: MAHLIA SUKHERA LONE Paris: JENNIFER WEIL, ELLEN GROVES, EMILIE MARSH, CHANTAL GOUPIL, LAURENT FOLCHER, KATYA FOREMAN Rio de Janeiro: MIKE KEPP San Francisco: JOANNA RAMEY Shanghai: LISA MOVIUS, ANDREW YANG : PATTY HUNTINGTON Tokyo: KOJI HIRANO Washington: KRISTI ELLIS, LIZA CASABONA, SUSAN WATTERS Editorial Assistants: PRIYA RAO, NICK AXELROD

Wwd.com AMY DITULLIO, Managing Editor BRUNO NAVARRO (News Editor), VERONIQUE HYLAND (Associate Editor, Fashion), LAUREN BENET STEPHENSON (Associate Editor, Beauty/Lifestyle)

Layout/Copydesk PETER SADERA, Copy Chief MAUREEN MORRISON, Deputy Copy Chief LISA KELLY, Senior Copy Editor DEBORAH BOYLAN, ADAM PERKOWSKY, KIM ROMAGNUOLO, Copy Editors Art Department ANDREW FLYNN, Group Art Director SHARON BER, AMY LOMACCHIO, Associate Art Directors COURTNEY MITCHELL, Designer ERIC PERRY, Junior Designer TYLER RESTY, Art Assistant Photo CARTER LOVE, Photo Coordinator Imaging ANITA BETHEL, Director MIGUEL PEREZ, Imaging Manager, SARAH SCHNEIDER, Imaging Coordinator ROBERT COHEN, JOSE BERMUDEZ, CHARLES BURGOON, ROBERT MESSYASZ, CHRIS PREJBISZ, ALEX SHARFMAN, ELOISE TILLMAN, RICHARD TRABKA, Imaging Technicians

Photographers PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, STEPHANE FEUGERE, DELPHINE ACHARD, DOMINIQUE MAITRE, TIM JENKINS

Chairman and Editorial Director PATRICK MCCARTHY WWD SCOOP_DIoR _Sept08.indd1

Eyewear: DIORISSIMA 1 / www..com 8/11/08 2:29:16 PM WWDEYE ON THE INSIDE SCOOP Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017

CHRISTINE GUILFOYLE Publisher p Advertising JOEL FERTEL, Associate Publisher, Innerwear/Legwear/Textile DALE REICH, Associate Publisher, Media & Trade Shows VANESSA MAHLAB, Associate Publisher, TIA POTTER, Associate Publisher, Technology DEBRA GOLDBERG, Associate Publisher, Beauty LISA ENGERT, Executive Director, Fine Jewelry JENNIFER FISHMAN, Executive Fashion Director JANINE MARKS, Account Director JENNIFER MARDER, Associate Publisher, Accessories ELIZABETH DETMER, Beauty Director p Regional Offices DEBORAH LEVY, Senior Account Manager, West Coast, 323.965.7283 RON TROXELL, West Coast Director, 323.965.7285 KAREN MARTIN, Midwest Director, 312.649.3503 MICHELLE RASKIN, FN West Coast Director, 323.965.7298 SUSAN SMITH, 770.992.3259

International Offices ELIZABETH HAYNES, European Advertising Director, Paris, 011.331.4451.1300 ODILE EDA-PIERRE, Account Manager, Paris, 011.331.4451.1290 GUGLIELMO BAVA, Advertising Director, Italy, 011.3902.6558.4225 OLGA KOUZNETSOVA, Account Manager, Italy, 011.3902.6558.4224 Marketing/Promotion JODI MARCHISOTTA, Associate Publisher DANIELLE MCMURRAY, Creative Services Director KATIE MCKENNA, Brand Development Director JAIME HOLLANDER, Senior Marketing Manager BRIDGIT KEARNS, Marketing Manager KATHLEEN CALLAHAN, Classified Marketing Manager HILLARY TOWNSEND, Online Marketing Manager TING WANG, Promotions Manager BENJAMIN GELINAS, Design Director MARK RAMEL, Design Manager DIANE HUNTLEY, Copy Director CARA CLINTON, Promotions Editor JULIE GU, Marketing Coordinator STEPHANIE BROWN, Promotions Assistant Business Group RALPH ERARDY, Executive Director of Sales, Fairchild Fashion Group GREGORY REMILLARD, General Manager, Fairchild Online DREW DIX, Executive Sales Director, Classified, Fairchild Fashion Group RICHARD CHERICHELLA, Business Director, Fairchild Fashion Group KAREN CHIU, Business Manager, Fairchild Fashion Group JANET JANOFF, General Manager, WWD RON WILSON, Director of European Operations COLLEEN COMPSTON, Executive Assistant to the President

Advertising Assistants NICOLE DOUCETTE, COLLEEN CAMMARANO, IRENE ENG, TINA LOREGIO, TINA SCHLISSEL, MICHELE SUTTON, JOYCE GRAHAM, PASCALE RAJAC, EMANUELA ALTIMANI

Production GENA KELLY, Executive Director, Manufacturing and Distribution CHRIS WENGIEL, Group Production Director KEVIN HURLEY, Production Director JILL BREINER, Associate Production Manager AHMED PRUITT, Production Coordinator MICHAEL WAGNER, Senior B2B Distribution Manager

Circulation AP DUFFY, Circulation Marketing Director JOHN CROSS, Fulfillment Director JAMES ROSSI, Marketing Director RICHARD FRANZ, Circulation Sales Director

Fairchild Fashion Group DANIEL LAGANI, President © 2008 LA PRAIRIE INC. Precious SkincareForThePrivilegedFew Cellular CreamPlatinumRare experience thefuture now, youcan s c o A 1976 gown. o p WATCHOUT SEPTEMBER This fall, hunker down in a German bunker with modern art, get nostalgic over in Paris or see historic couture in Chicago. —Compiled by Elisa Lipsky-Karasz “Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum” FASHION Through July 26 Sure, Chicago is famous for its deep-dish pizza and architecture, but fashion? An exhibit at the Chicago History Chicago History Museum attempts to prove the Second City has just as much fashion sense A 1954 Museum as its coastal rivals. “Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures From the Chicago History Museum” Chicago Butterfl y . 312.642.4600 features more than 60 couture pieces from the institution’s permanent collection, ranging from chicagohistory.org the Gilded Age to the present day. “Chicago is chic, it has always been chic, and this exhibit proves it,” says curator Timothy Long, who collaborated on the project with Valerie Steele, the director and chief curator of New York’s Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Highlights include a Twenties “robe de style,” a 17-pound tulle confection by Charles James (right) and a disco-inspired asymmetric Halston dress (left). To accompany the show, the museum also will screen a series of on-theme films, including the 1995 documentary Unzipped. “All the pieces on display have some significance to history, and, of course, they were all owned by Chicago women,” says Long. Case in point is a Poiret number donned in 1913 by Windy City socialite Anita Carolyn Blair. “This is the dress that takes us into modern fashion,” says Long of the loose-fitting Victorian piece, “People would have gasped when she wore it.” —AMANDA FITZSIMONS

FASHION In the summer of 1962, Douglas Kirkland was just a young like a flip book. Of course, the strands of pearls, the hat, the buck when Look magazine shipped him off to Paris to shoot dangling cigarette and scissors-on-a-string lassoed around Chanel for a photo essay. With the upcoming release her neck are other telltale clues. But it’s the images of her of : Three Weeks/1962, the renowned lensman hands at work—fixing, clasping, adjusting—that stay with is offering what feels like a peek-through-the-keyhole of Kirkland. “To me, that’s a picture,” he says. the designer at work and at ease in her Rue Cambon atelier. A former assistant to , Kirkland has The book coincides with the 125th anniversary of the photographed numerous luminaries over the years— designer’s birth. including , and Angelina OCTOBER The photographer and his subject took a shine to each Jolie—but his stint with Chanel stays with him. Standing other. All these years later, Kirkland is still at a loss as to outside Versailles with arms crossed and his coat draped over why Chanel warmed up to him. Even was said her shoulders to fend off the afternoon chill is the lasting image he has of her. It to have been taken by the shots of Chanel smiling and looking so full of life. is also the curtain call for his journey and the book. “That really pleased me to hear that,” Kirkland says. And the European adventure has never faded for Kirkland. “It truly did Even at age 79, Chanel’s impeccable posture and commanding gait are change my life, and I don’t throw words like that around.” unmistakable in the black-and-white photos that flow from one shot to the next —ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Coco Chanel: Three Weeks/1962, by Douglas Kirkland (out now) Glitterati Inc. 16 WWDscoop “Live Forever: SPORTS Elizabeth Peyton” Spring Racing Cup Oct. 8–Jan. 11 Carnival OCTOBER The New Oct. 1–Nov. 19 Museum , Australia New York +61.13.0013.9402 MUSIC 212.219.1222 springracingcarnival. Serge Gainsbourg—the late newmuseum.org com.au legendary French singer, actor, THEATER director and poet who remains All My Sons beloved by fans as much for his Starring John Elizabeth Peyton’s Jackie experimental music and naughty and John (Jackie Fixing Lithgow, Dianne John’s Hair). Wiest, Patrick Wilson lyrics as his high-profile relationships and Katie Holmes with and Jane Oct. 16 Birkin—will be given his own show Gerald Schoenfeld this fall at Paris’ Music Museum. Theatre OCTOBER It’s being billed as the most New York comprehensive exhibition on the Serge 212.239.6200 Gainsbourg ART artist, who died in 1991, leaving A veritable celebrity fest, including , Keith Richards, FILM behind a large legacy including the Pete Doherty and Leonardo DiCaprio, is expected on the Bowery How to Lose Friends 1969 hit Je t’aime moi non plus. and Alienate People this fall. Or, at least, their likenesses, as rendered by Elizabeth Curated by producer Frédéric Sanchez (the man responsible Starring Simon Pegg, Peyton, will be there. In the first retrospective for the artist, New Kirsten Dunst, Megan for runway soundtracks for Marc Jacobs and ), the show York City’s New Museum is exhibiting 100 of Peyton’s paintings, Fox and Jeff Bridges includes artifacts from Gainsbourg’s estate arranged drawings and prints in a show opening October 8. Her signature Oct. 3 to replicate the singer’s legendary digs at 5bis Rue de The Music Museum at small-scale oils, which are painted from photographs, are inspired Verneuil. “What I’ve tried to reconstruct is the way the Cité de la Musique SOCIAL Oct. 21–March 1 by portraitists such as John Singer Sargent and and all of the objects were placed in a certain visual way to Whitney Gala and Paris tackle issues of fame and tabloid culture. The exhibit, sponsored Studio Party tell a story,” explains Sanchez, recalling how a series of +33.1.44.84.44.84 by Banana Republic, features many of the 43-year-old’s famous Oct. 20 Marilyn Monroe photos lining the chanteur’s staircase cite-musique.fr friends from the fashion, art and music worlds, and also includes Whitney Museum of culminate with a shot of her body in a morgue. images of John and Jackie Kennedy, Georgia O’Keefe and one American Art Sanchez also reunited an army of Gainsbourg’s leadingg lladiesadies to reareadd New York titled Democrats Are More Beautiful, featuring a young Al Gore. lyrics for the show’s haunting soundtrack, including Birkin,kin daughdaughterter 212.570.3676 “[Elizabeth] has said that she started making pictures of whitney.org , Bambou, and Catherine people that she loved when she was a little kid,” says Laura Deneuve. “What was mind-blowing was that all of them had kept Hoptman, The Kraus Family senior curator at the New Museum, MUSIC [Gainsbourg’s trademark] diction. He really directed them,” he says. “and it hasn’t changed.” Also on display—a witness to Gainsbourg’s famously Oct. 20 Next stop for the show is the Walker Art Museum in mischievous ways—fans will find a pile of policemen’s medallions Le Bataclan Minneapolis, and then the Whitechapel Art Gallery in London. Paris that he collected on his not-infrequent run-ins with the law. —ISABEL WILKINSON +33.1.43.14.00.30 —KATYA FOREMAN cyndilauper.com

FASHION “Yves Saint Laurent” ART Nov. 1–April 5 What do you do with a giant concrete bunker from NOVEMBER de Young Museum San Francisco World War II that is the size of an office building and 415.750.3600 located in the center of Berlin? famsf.org/deyoung/ If you are the German advertising honcho and art collector Christian Boros, you convert it into a personal ART art gallery and build a luxury penthouse apartment on “Joan Miro: Painting and Anti-Painting 1927–1937” the roof. Boros, whose vast collection includes 500 Nov. 2–Jan. 12 contemporary pieces by artists such as Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson and Wolfgang Tillmans, was looking for New York a place to store it all when he decided to buy the onetime 212.708.9400 Nazi bunker in 2003. Now his collection is spread out over moma.org the structure’s 32,300 square feet, which has been chopped SOCIAL up into 80 rooms with ceilings soaring up to 43 feet. Museum Gala Besides the artwork it contains, the bunker has its own historical significance. Built in 1942 by Hitler’s chief architect, Albert November 20 Speer, the site served as an air-raid shelter, holding as many as 3,000 Berliners. After East Berlin fell under Russian control, the American Museum of Red Army used the space as a prison. The building then fell into disrepair in the Fifties, when it was converted into a warehouse Natural History New York for fruit and vegetables—with some locals dubbing it the “banana bunker.” But once the Berlin Wall fell, the concrete block had 212.769.5100 yet another incarnation: as one of ’s most well-known underground techno clubs in the wild Nineties. amnh.org As Berlin once again transforms itself—this time into a hub for the international art market— it’s fitting that the bunker has become a gallery. Boros’ collection is open to the public by appointment on weekends—but eager art fans, beware: The next SOCIAL

GAINSBOURG PHOTO BY P. TERRASSON; BUNKER BY MATTI HILLIG TERRASSON; BUNKER BY MATTI GAINSBOURG PHOTO BY P. available tickets are for December 27. —DAMIEN MCGUINNESS Ballet Opening Night Benefit November 25 The Boros Collection New York State Theatre Berlin New York +49.20.224.8430 212.870.5585 sammlung-boros.de WWDscoop17 nycballet.com s eye openers c o o UNDERTHECOVERS p From skateboarders to soccer players and dogs to tycoons, these books speak volumes. By Karen Marta

Municipal de Fútbol Weiss. It is a revealing—and somewhat unnerving—look Municipal de Fútbol commemorates the phenomenon of at the images and slogans that constitute our glutted amateur soccer in Los Angeles—the everyday experience contemporary media landscape. of the many recent immigrants who have brought their love of “football” with them, playing in pickup games, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches and in weekend and night park leagues. The limited John Goldberger, editor of 100 Superlative Rolex edition, published by the founder of Revolver, Christoph Watches (Damiani), presents comprehensive descriptions Keller, includes two books, one poster, nine artist of 100 of the finest Rolex watches ever made, and lithographs and an Adidas with a “Municipal de provides an extensive overview of Rolex’s production. Fútbol/Los Angeles Recreation and Parks” embroidered There are more than 600 color illustrations and 400 patch. The edition is already a descriptions providing reference numbers, casing, collector’s item even though it has not movement, relative calibers and year of production yet reached bookstores. for each watch.

Unknown Halsman Ed Templeton: Deformer Born in Riga, Latvia, in 1906, Philippe Eleven years in the making, the scrapbook about the Halsman moved to Paris in 1930 childhood of professional skateboarder and co-editor and began his career as a portrait of the arts magazine ANP Quarterly Ed Templeton photographer. His career was brought gives a sun-drenched glimpse of what it was like to to a grinding halt when Hitler’s troops be young and alive in suburban Southern . arrived in Paris in 1940. Halsman Deformer (Damiani) interweaves disciplinary letters escaped to New York with little but his from his grandfather and religious camera. Shooting for Life in the early notes from his mother with sketches, Forties, Halsman’s disarming ability to snapshots, telling images and the expose the personality of his subjects without occasional brutal tale. pretense quickly made him one of the most sought-after photographers by the nation’s William Wegman: Dogs on Rocks cultural elite. Unknown Halsman (D.A.P./ Dogs on Rocks (A.S.A.P.) is a volume of Distributed Art Publishers), edited by his new photographs of William Wegman’s grandson, Oliver Halsman Rosenberg, includes famous Weimaraners, taken while he private and experimental photographs, was in residence at The Acadia Summer decontextualized advertisements, outtakes from Arts Program and at his home in Maine. famous sittings, contact sheets Many of the shots—of the dogs alone, and family snapshots. in pairs or in groups—take advantage of the breathtaking vistas of Acadia National Park on Miroslav Tichy Mount Desert Island, where the residency is located. Born in 1926 in the former Wegman’s portraits of his dogs are framed by the Czechoslovakia, artist Miroslav natural beauty and muted tones of the island’s forest Tichy withdrew to a life of and rocky beach. isolation in his hometown of Kyjov. In the late Fifties, he Angie Waller: Home of Tycoons began with cameras he had made Home of Tycoons is an artist’s book by Angie Waller of by hand to take photographs the 2004 real estate boom in Beijing—as the old city of women. This beautifully was being demolished and replaced by high-rises, produced volume, Miroslav Tichy stadiums and suburban gated communities. The (Walther König), collects his work. Tichy, sadly, has artist uses photo documentation and samplings of never seen any of his exhibitions, though, since he poorly translated Chinese-to-English sales materials no longer leaves his house. to reveal the fantastical side of home ownership in China. The brochure for Beijing’s Long Island Peter Fischli & David Weiss: Sonne, Mond community reads, “This isn’t an age that dare not und Sterne speak up wealth, this is an age that needs to use Sonne, Mond und Sterne (JRP|Ringier) is an 800-page wealth to sublime one’s life.” The book can only artist’s book of magazine advertisements chosen be ordered online through couchprojects at by the Zurich-based duo Peter Fischli and David blurb.com/user/store/angiewaller.

18 WWDscoop BOSS Orange HUGO BOSS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com s eye openers c o o p p GIR LSOF

As the leavesFALL change with the season, so does the spotlight. Here, autumn’s crop of enchanting entertainers.

ZOE KAZAN It wasn’t so long ago that Zoe Kazan was just another theater student at . Fast-forward a few years and the 25-year-old has blossomed into a promising acting powerhouse. This fall, she’ll appear on in Anton Chekhov’s alongside and , and on-screen in Sam Mendes’ Revolutionary Road with Leonardo DiCaprio and . Not that such co-stars should faze her much: After all, her grandfather is director and her parents, and , are screenwriters of flicks such as the Oscar-nominated Reversal of Fortune and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. Unlike some of her Hollywood royalty peers, however, Kazan eschews panty-flashing nights out for dinner parties at home in Carroll Gardens, , with her boyfriend, actor . Fans can look for the young couple in Ang Lee’s upcoming Taking Woodstock.

WORKING OVERTIME: Kazan shot four movies and did three plays in the past year, but agreed to tread the boards one more time for The Seagull. “I’ve been working without a break,” she says. “I put my foot down to my agents and said I don’t want to do any more plays. I’m tired. They totally consume you—but then this one came up and there was no way I wasn’t going to try.”

CHAMELEON: Kazan, who is naturally fair-haired, has done everything with her locks, from dyeing them black and cutting heavy bangs to going blonde and curly. “I wake up in the morning and I have dreadlocks on the back of my head because it’s just so damaged,” she says. “My mom’s like, ‘Please buy a wig [for work].’”

ON THE ROAD: The actress’ shooting schedule has kept her away from home for much of the past 12 months. “I feel like such a gypsy with all my belongings tied on a stick,” says the Los Angeles native, who has spent much of her time in London, where she became a fan of the vintage clothing markets. “I bought a little necklace with copper shoes on it. I saw these little worn-out shoes, and that’s how I felt.”

RED-CARPET DRESSING: You won’t hear Rachel Zoe saying, “I die,” as she pulls clothing for Kazan’s turns in the spotlight. The starlet prefers to pick out her own outfits. “It’s always nice when someone wants to lend you pretty clothes. But I don’t know whether I would feel comfortable having someone play dress-up with me,” she says. “I’m sure I’ll look back, though, and think, ‘What an idiot.’”

—ELISA LIPSKY-KARASZ KEENAN DZIENA BY STEFANIE ANTONOV; KAZAN PHOTO BY PASHA

20 WWDscoop ALEXIS DZIENA The latest actress to win a spot opposite chic-geek Michael Cera is 24-year-old Alexis Dziena, who appears in the coming-of-age comedy Nick and Norah’s Infinite Playlist, out October 3. As maniacal queen bee Tris, Dziena unceremoniously dumps Cera’s title character Nick. “She doesn’t want to be a villain,” says the actress of her on-screen persona, “she just is.” The New York native’s previous credits include a supporting role in the Kate Hudson vehicle Fool’s Gold and a part in the short-lived sci-fi TV series Invasion. Dziena next stars in the romantic comedy When in Rome, out early next year. The movie also features Danny DeVito, Will Arnett and Dziena’s idol, Anjelica Huston, though the two had shooting schedules. “I’m going to introduce myself at the premiere,” says Dziena, “I just think she’s the coolest chick ever.”

BOYS ON THE SIDE: Dziena, who attended New York’s progressive St. Ann’s school, caught the acting bug early, when she was tapped for a role in a middle school production of Twelfth Night. “There were all these cute older boys fawning over me and I was like, ‘Wow, acting’s great.’”

CAST AWAY: Dziena is the first to admit she was an unorthodox choice for the part of snooty Lady Who Lunches Gemma Honeycutt in Fool’s Gold. “The first images that come to mind are a 5-foot, 10-inch blonde with fake boobs and painted nails,” she says with a laugh, “not a little indie girl like me.”

HARD DRIVE: Though she’s already spent four years in Los Angeles, Dziena hasn’t quite adjusted to the city’s car culture. “I’m too afraid to go on the freeway. It takes me about six hours to get everywhere. I think I only got my license in the first place because my guy from the DMV recognized me from Invasion.” —AMANDA FITZSIMONS

WWDscoop21 s eye openers c SOPHIE OKONEDO ▲ o Sue Monk Kidd’s best-selling 2002 novel, The Secret Life of Bees, hits o the big screen in October. Sophie Okonedo, who was nominated for a p GIRLS best supporting actress Oscar in 2004 for her role in Hotel Rwanda, plays May, the tenderhearted sister of three OF strong Southerners who take in a young girl (Dakota Fanning). Queen Latifah, Jennifer Hudson and Alicia Keys costar in the drama, making for a very musical atmosphere offscreen. But Okonedo, FALL 39, left the singing to the professionals. “I just played the tambourine in the background,” she says.

ON MAY: “May’s feelings—they’re sort of much more pumped up than mine,” says the actress. “The grief and sadness and joy and all those human feelings.”

FASHION PHILOSOPHY: The London-born and -based actress doesn’t use a stylist for red- carpet events. Instead, she often pulls clothes from her favorites, like and , adding, “I have no problem wearing a dress again. I just think this consumerist world we live in, I don’t need to add to it by demanding new jackets and every time I go out.”

UP NEXT: Skin, the true story of Sandra Laing, a South African woman in the Sixties who was born black to two apartheid-supporting white parents. “I do love stories about Average Joes

who overcome,” Okonedo says. “But I definitely need to do a comedy.” —EMILY HOLT ▲ JENNIFER CARPENTER You might expect actress Jennifer Carpenter to suffer from serious nightmares. The 28-year-old stars in the upcoming zombie flick Quarantine (out October 10) and appears in Showtime’s critically hailed serial killer series Dexter. Nevertheless, Carpenter cheerfully calls herself the world’s “happy-go-luckiest” person. “I exorcize all my demons through my roles,” she explains. Her choice of words is apt, given she got her big break as the titular ghost hostess in the 2005 film The Exorcism of Emily Rose. This fall she appears in Battle in Seattle. The film chronicles the obstacles faced by a fictional cadre of ▲ antiglobalization protesters at the 1999 OLGA KURYLENKO meeting of the World Trade Organization James Bond may be a cinematic icon, but not to model-cum-actress and also stars Woody Harrelson, André Olga Kurylenko. “We didn’t have any of that when I was a child,” says Benjamin, Michelle Rodriguez and the Ukrainian-born starlet, who only familiarized herself with Western Charlize Theron. cinema after moving to Paris at age 16. Lately she’s received a Though she’s eager to work with crash course in 007 while shooting the latest Bond installment, and learn from more established talent, Quantum of Solace, opposite Daniel Craig, out November 14. Carpenter doesn’t envy the prey of paparazzi. “Once you let them in, you : Discovered by a modeling scout in Moscow at the can’t ask them to leave,” she says. “The age of 13, Kurylenko transitioned to acting, she says, “because I few times I’ve been involved in paparazzi wanted to do something that involves the head.” situations it felt horrible, like I had just been robbed.” TRAINING DAY: In order to prepare for the action-packed Solace, Alas, Carpenter may find it increasingly Kurylenko, 28, endured daily four-hour sessions of fight training, difficult to keep a low profile. Quarantine, skydiving lessons and rifle instruction. “It’s easy learning the in which she stars as a TV reporter movement,” says Kurylenko, who studied ballet as a child, “but the hounded by zombies, should boost her hard part is endurance. It’s amazing how tired you are the first day.” popularity among horror fans who don’t already know her from Exorcism. Next up, IN HER SHOES: If you think Kurylenko is at all intimidated by stepping she’s teaming with John Cusack for The into Halle Berry’s and Ursula Andress’ bikinis—think again. “There Factory, yet another film with dark subject were a lot of girls that were good, and some parts that were more matter—this time, a string of unsolved

interesting than others. I don’t really think about this stuff.” —A.F. murders in Buffalo. —LEE BAILEY BY KAREN BALLARD BY GETTY IMAGES; CARPENTER TYLER BOYE; KURYLENKO OKONEDO PHOTO BY JEFF VESPA/CONTOUR

22 WWDscoop

s eye openers c o o GIRLS p OF FALL ▲ ALEXA CHUNG ▲ ELISA TOFFOLI A former model, the 24-year-old Alexa Chung Although she toiled in the music business for 10 landed her first break hosting the U.K.’s years, recorded eight albums in English and spent Channel 4 youth music show Popworld 22 two a good deal of time in Berkeley, Calif., Italian singer years ago. In October, Chung, who dates Arctic Elisa Toffoli was unknown to American audiences Monkeys’ Alex Turner, will join designer Henry until this summer when her single “Dancing” was Holland to cohost Channel 4’s seven-week played—where else?—on a reality show. series Frock Me, exploring youth culture trends. Her moment on Fox’s So You Think You Can She’s also fronted an upcoming documentary Dance propelled the song into iTunes’ Top 20 and investigating sweatshops, titled The Devil Wears sparked more than a million hits on YouTube. Primark; is designing jewelry for Made, and has Now Toffoli, 30, is promoting her latest album, reportedly been reading film scripts on the side. Dancing, and will embark on a monthlong North American tour, beginning October 29 in Toronto and WWDScoop: Where do you shop? traveling through New York, Chicago, Los Angeles Alexa Chung: Opening Ceremony in New York, Dover and Seattle. “I’m really looking forward to seeing Street Market in London, in Paris. Spitalfields Las Vegas—it’s not exactly my style, but who knows, Market in London for antiques, Russell and Bromley maybe I’ll end up liking it after all,” she says. for classic mumsy shoes, Mulberry for bags and Her first album was recorded in Berkeley and Marks & Spencer for children’s school blazers. produced by Corrado Rustici, who also worked with and . Toffoli WWDScoop: Are you more inspired by the fashion is considered a major star in her home country, or music crowd? having performed with Luciano Pavarotti and A.C.: The music crowd—they make more mistakes. , but sticks with English lyrics on her I don’t like it when people dress too considered. own tracks and professes a deep love of The Doors. “When I was 12, I saw the film by Oliver WWD Scoop: Who’s your favorite designer? Stone, fell in love with their music and A.C.: I love Luella [Bartley]. I feel like the type immediately bought a book of Jim Morrison’s of girl she designs for. I love equestrian-inspired poetry,” she says. “I learned English in large part garments and dresses that you can get dirty. by following the Italian translations of their lyrics —KATYA FOREMAN in the album liners.” —RACHEL MASCETTA

KRISTEN STEWART ▲ Kristen Stewart didn’t intend to become an actress. She got not that big of a deal. It has turned out to be the opposite.” a call from an agent out of the blue after the then-eight-year- old sang a song in her elementary school’s Christmas show. SHE GOES HER OWN WAY: Because of erratic shooting schedules, Her script supervisor mother and stage manager father had Stewart opted for an independent-study program rather than some reservations at first: “They were like, ‘Really? This is regular high school, and has put college on the back burner something you want to do? Because you know what hell this for now. “I have had so many demands put on me in such a is,’” she remembers. “I guess I was steadfast.” Last year, structured way my entire life that at this point, I need a minute. she was in Into the Wild, as the dreamy hippie who falls I don’t need someone telling me what book to be reading,” says for Emile Hirsch’s character. This fall, the 18-year-old is the actress, who also would like to pursue a writing career. “I starring as Bella Swan in the film version of the first of definitely have a future in academics, but not right now.” Stephanie Meyer’s cult vampire books Twilight. UP NEXT: She’ll be back in cineplexes in Adventureland, PRESSURE COOKER: The huge fan base of Twilight has a comedy set in 1987 from Greg Mottola, the director of taken Stewart by surprise. “I sort of figured it would Superbad. After that, she will shift gears to play a 16-year- always stay like a cult movie, because Catherine old stripper in the drama Welcome to the Rileys. “I’m going

Hardwicke directs good indies. It seemed like it would be to be such a goofball stripper,” says Stewart. —E.L.K. IMAGES BY FRANK MICELOTTA/GETTY TOFFOLI BY J. BLAKESBERG; STEWART CHUNG PHOTO BY ALEX TITLOW;

00 WWDscoop AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ®The Seal of Cotton is a Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. ©Cotton Incorporated, 2008. 9/5/08 10:11:34 PM Supp-web_Template.indd 1 Amid the whirl of New York Fashion Week, where the rising

Alexander Wang and Foxy Brown at the designer’s after party.

Etty Lau Farrell and At Marc Jacobs’ party. husband Perry at the Rose Bar.

Dylan McDermott at the Rose Bar. Jennifer Lopez at Diane von Furstenberg.

chorus was: Gimme an “A”. By Emily Holt

PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER STEPHANE FEUGERE SCOTT RUDD ROBERT MITRA KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN PHOTO EDITOR: CARRIE PROVENZANO

Daphne Guinness at Sofi a Coppola and Theodora Richards ’s party. Rachel Feinstein at the at the Rose Bar. Marc Jacobs party. Halle Berry and Charlize Theron and boyfriend Gabriel Aubry at Stuart Townsend (left) at Rag & Bone. ’s 40th anniversary party.

ashion week. The shows, the Champagne, the parties, the waiting, the paparazzi crushing to get a shot of some B-, C- or even Z-list actress few people will remember come next season….Why can’t it be more like Funny Face? Hold on. Even those of the fashion flock who remember attending Marc Jacobs’ show were surprised by the caliber of celebs at the New York shows. At last, some serious star wattage. The trend lately had been for the A-listers to avoid the New York circus as if it were sugar and carbs—leaving the front rows open to second-string TV actresses, MTV Movie Award winners, reality “stars” and tabloid fodder. The industry’s most avid pop-culture vultures, not to mention the aforementioned paparazzi, were often left craning their necks and asking, “Who’s that?” Not this time. September saw four Oscar winners—Renée, Charlize, Halle and Hilary—and at . Jay-Z, LeBron James and Maverick Carter at a party. twice as many Olympic medalists (but not, alas, Michael Phelps). And, if one was occasionally left wondering why they were there, at least some of them appeared to truly want to be. “Carolina’s clothes are classic and comfortable,” Renée Zellweger said before ’s show. “[My loyalty] is not a facade.” That seemed to apply even to stars who were fans of lesser-known designers—Mary-Louise Parker turned up at 6119 Maurice & Ilana Sunderland, Kirsten Dunst hit Band of Outsiders and Meg Ryan, Tobey Maguire, Jennifer Aniston and Courteney Cox were at Propr (OK, it involved their friend and/or husband David Arquette, but still…). And some of those shows were only after Fashion Rocks,

which had one of its best crowds in awhile— ▼ at Victoria Beckham and Jennifer Lopez at Marc Jacobs. Tommy Hilfi ger.

Renée Zellweger at Carolina Herrera.

Coco Rocha at Zac Posen’s party. Blake Lively at . at Calvin Klein’s 40th including Charlize Theron and Hilary Swank—rocking had a famous front row in awhile, and was met with anniversary party. to Beyoncé, , Mariah and Duffy. a veritable fashion fracas. When he couldn’t get to But it was at Diane von Furstenberg where the his seat because it was blocked by camera crews and wind of change really took hold. Sure, there was the photographers aimed at Joan Allen (three-time Oscar usual power mix—Barry Diller, Charlie Rose, Susan nominee), Talley threw what one observer could only Sarandon. But then, surprise, and describe as “an epic s--t fit.” “Why don’t I just leave!” Jennifer Lopez showed up and cued the paparazzi he bellowed when the show was 45 minutes late. frenzy. Similarly, no one suspected that “Because it’s not about people seeing the clothes,” he would be at the after party for Rodarte. She does wear added sarcastically, “it’s just about the celebrities.” the Mulleavy sisters’ gowns on the red carpet more The frenzy has become too much even for some of often than any other starlet, but the biggest name that the stars. Swank gladly turned up at , bash has seen in the last two years is Cyndi Lauper. but refused all interview requests. Ditto Natalie Nevertheless, the Duchess star was in town to promote Portman at Rodarte and Derek Lam, while Theron the film at two screenings, and so she hit the Rodarte and companion Stuart Townsend plugged André fete, as well—dressed down after her appearance on Benjamin’s men’s line, but were far from welcoming Late Night With Conan O’Brien and ready to relax. when approached by journalists. Jason Biggs, who Let’s face it, many of the celebs had professional sat alongside Allen at Badgley Mischka and is best reasons for being at fashion week. is known as the lead in the American Pie franchise, was involved in William Rast (and lured some press there admittedly outdone during his first New York fashion with the promise of an interview and a concert, only to show. His wife said, “We thought we were cool, until cancel both); Lopez has her own fashion line; Dunst we came in here and looked around.” was in the Band of Outsiders video; Eva Mendes is “And now we’re totally depressed and want to get in a slew of Calvin Klein ad campaigns, and Halle the hell out of here,” Biggs added with a laugh. Berry’s beau, Gabriel Aubry, is the face of Klein’s men’s Elizabeth Banks at least had a strategy to survive campaign. Berry gladly admitted that was why she was the maddening back-to-back shows and after parties. huddling in a VIP booth with Aubry at the company’s “I’ve just done one a day and some evening events,” 40th anniversary party in a special John Pawson– she said at 3.1 Phillip Lim. “I did that 100 percent designed pavilion at the Highline. But she didn’t have deliberately. It could only be one a day.” to plug the brand. “I’ve become more of a minimalist as Actress Natasha Lyonne followed suit. “I’m only I’ve gotten older,” she said, before stopping and saying going to [Marc Jacobs] and then Benjamin Cho. that was enough about her and the focus should be on That’s all I can handle of this craziness,” said the her sweetheart. “It’s really his night. I’m just his date.” former hard partier. Leighton Meester, a fixture throughout Even with Banks’ and Lyonne’s restricted schedules, the week, perfectly put things into a professional there were still plenty of celebs to go around—as context: Her bosses, she noted, “like us to go to these Graydon Carter found out the hard way, when he was things. It helps to promote the show.” trampled by paparazzi angling for Thurman and Lopez Which at times raised the eerie feeling among the at Diane von Furstenberg’s show. “Who cares? They’re fashion pros that they were watching an actress acting just actresses,” griped the editor in chief of a magazine like an actress raptly absorbed in a fashion show. who puts stars like that on its cover. Which one was real and which one was Memorex? Someone must care, otherwise why would designers The fever pitch got temperatures rising among those be going through so much trouble (let alone paying who actually had to be there for work. André Leon the A-list tens and sometimes hundreds of thousands of

Talley attended Badgley Mischka’s show, which hasn’t dollars, as is rumored, plus clothes) to have them ▼

Christina Ricci Eva Longoria Parker at at DKNY. Diane von Furstenberg. in the spotlight at Alexander Wang’s party.

Kanye West Irina Lazareanu Arki Busson, Uma Thurman and Barry Diller at Thakoon. at the Purple at Diane von Furstenberg. Magazine party. Jessica Alba at Narciso Rodriguez. Sean Avery at Zoe Saldana at Vera Wang. Hervé Léger.

Keira Knightley at Rodarte’s party.

Lauren Hutton at Marc Jacobs. at Zac Posen’s party. Serena Williams at Zac Posen.

Jada Pinkett Smith at Zac Posen.

Winona Ryder at Brooke Shields at Kirsten Dunst at Band of Outsiders. Marc Jacobs’ party. Calvin Klein’s 40th anniversary party. at their show? By the end of the week, some of the celebs were Jacobs show hand in hand with Lopez, again surrounded by around so much they were turning into Ubiquitors: , about six burly bodyguards. Beckham’s a seasoned star, sure, but who arrived 53 minutes late to Thakoon Panichgul’s show (and two she lacks the same filter that is employed by so many others in the days later was arrested in Los Angeles for smashing a paparazzo’s spotlight. For instance, when told that her and Lopez’s harried camera); hockey pro Sean Avery, who skipped training with his new arrival knocked at least three editors off their feet and into the team, the Dallas Stars, for the Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez and bleachers—giving “fashion victim” a whole new meaning—the Vera Wang shows; the entire Gossip Girl cast who, between Meester, Spice Girl responded very casually: “I think it’s good for people Blake Lively and Taylor Momsen, had the city covered. Even to get toughed up.” (And by people, one can only assume she Claire Danes seemed to be too visible—turning up at Calvin Klein, means anyone but her. “It’s like a mosh pit,” said a shaken Narciso Rodriguez and Zac Posen, and professing her devotion to . “I was getting mashed against the wall—I was all three (at least Jessica Alba had the good sense to make her friend basically Helen Keller. But it’s worth it. Marc’s my guy.”) Narciso Rodriguez’s show her only stop of the week). After awhile, The urgent and brief frenzy surrounding a star at a show does some of the celebs were like your cousin—you’re glad to visit with lend the event a certain spark that was absent at some of the after them for a bit, but then wish they’d just go away. parties, which, for the most part, were smaller, more staid affairs It’s not like their attendance is a walk in the park for fashion where celebrities were quarantined in VIP sections. An extreme show publicists or producers who have to coordinate schedules, example was Jacobs’ affair at The Greenwich Hotel, attended by a transportation and photo ops. Which is why some have resorted select group including Sofia Coppola, Ryder, Rachel Feinstein and to taking the whole circus backstage, inviting their celebrity Anne Hathaway who, wearing a simple black satin frock with her guests and select media to the more controlled environment of hair in a chignon, snuck in quietly to say hello to Jacobs and then a sponsor suite before the show. Michael Kors has utilized this quickly exited without many photographers noticing. (Her low practice for years, hosting celebs such as , Angie profile was understandable, given the legal scandal around her ex- Harmon and Jessica Simpson. This year, Lively was his guest beau Raffaello Follieri. Not Tatum O’Neal, who was very publicly of honor and so she was there, with her two sisters, gossiping arrested on drug charges this summer but happily plopped herself with Kors. “We should just tell people we are dating now, we in Calvin Klein’s front row). Jacobs’ VIPs were treated to a sit- have become so close,” the designer gushed at Lively. “Let’s go down dinner in full view of the other guests. Robert Duffy insisted shopping together this weekend.” that it wasn’t “an elitist thing,” but it definitely disappointed The leggy blonde then took a quick picture with a fashion some of the have-nots. The rest of the crowd was too invested in executive’s starstruck teenage daughter and posed for a few the music, free booze and each other to care, and appeared to be professional shots before she was rushed to her front-row seat. having the most fun of anyone. There, the tabloid hordes vied for a shot of her, but Lively was In fact, the best parties this season were the ones celebrities unfazed. “I’m just so excited to be here,” she said, no doubt for didn’t attend. Because while they can energize a room, they the umpteenth time. also can suck the air out of it when all anyone does is stand and Her enthusiasm—real or performed—is, after all, just part stare at them. Without the stars, pretense is lost and people of the game. Stars these days are much too media-trained to be become interested in partying, as occurred at this season’s design off-message at a fashion show. Lopez at is the darling Alexander Wang’s bash in Chinatown. Wang had set up perfect example. After the models had left the catwalk, camera a VIP area, replete with furniture from ABC Carpet & Home crews and reporters rushed her, climbing over each other and and bottles of vodka, but no one used it, not even the designer the runway. Security and publicists did the dirty work of shoving himself. Instead, he joined the models and young downtown everyone out of her way, while Lopez stayed calm, smiled for the types who were dancing up a storm so intense that everyone was cameras, looked into reporters’ eyes as they asked questions and drenched in sweat. Then Foxy Brown took the , which only answered each of them sotto voce as if they were engaged in an heightened the fever. And to her, Wang was the star. “When I was intimate and unique conversation, when in reality, it was anything in jail, my cell was full of Alexander Wang,” she gushed. but. And Lopez, like so many of the other celebs around, wasn’t After all, fashion’s fascination with celebrity is a two-way about to let her hair down. “It was chic,” she said of the show. street. As Zoe Saldana said shortly after she arrived at the “There were so many things I could see myself wearing and so Marchesa presentation, “I would love to meet [Georgina

many things you want to see other women in.” Chapman]. She makes amazing clothes, and obviously, she’s Paula Patton at ■ 3.1 Phillip Lim. Then there’s Victoria Beckham, who arrived at the Marc married to a huge Hollywood producer.”

Leighton Meester at Malin Akerman at 3.1 Phillip Lim. BCBG .

Lydia Hearst at Rosario Dawson Calvin Klein’s 40th at Miss Sixty. anniversary party. www.xoxo.com ©2008 Global Brand Holdings LLC. All XOXO products and ads are 100% fur-free. All XOXO products and ads are 100% fur-free. ©2008 Global Brand Holdings LLC. p o o c s fashion Dutch painter Victor de Bie. deBie. Dutch painterVictor exhibition inthespring,collaborationwith tostage herfirstphoto a Londongallery time,” shesays.Thebusybeealsoisscouting subjects; it’sjustaquestionoffindingthe camerasand experiment withdifferent 670. Supercolor compact Yoshika cameraandaPolaroid Week withherbeloved ended,armed she washeadedtoNepalonceParisFashion andtheMagnumpack,said -Bresson theworkofHenri and mostadmires with you.’” not goingtotakethatdowntherunway “Somebody wouldalwaysholler, ‘You’re makeup, mycamerainhand,”shesays. to hairand andrunning getting dressed chaotictakingphotosbetween pretty shots withbeautifullighting,butitwas Tam). LacosteandVivienne Rodarte, some 20NewYork shows,including HAPPY SNAP off thecatwalk. Iekeliene Stange struts herstuff… ekeliene Stange isn’t just a pretty face. ekeliene Stangeisn’tjustapretty “I’m still young, so I’ve got time to “I’m stillyoung,soI’vegottimeto Stange, whoisdrawntophotojournalism “I mostenjoyedsettinguptheambient old Dutchmodelspentasmuchtime behind thecameraduringNewYork headed down the runway (shewalked headed downtherunway Fashion Week ofit, asshedidinfront portraits taken seconds before shewas takensecondsbefore portraits as shootingahandfulofpoeticself- snapping herpeersbackstageaswell Honing her artistic eye,the24-year- Honing herartistic —KATYA FOREMAN —KATYA on the runway. the on The photographer

STANGE RUNWAY PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE

38 WEBB p o o c s WWDscoop unicorn.” —VENESSALAU unicorn.” “They’veneverbeentoapologame.Theythinkit’s shirts. says oftheirRalphLauren about labelsoranythinglikethat,”shesays.“Theydon’tknowwhatthatlogois,” she fashion babies,exactly. buttheydon’tknowanything “Imean,theylovetogetdressed, the fashionandmotherhoodworldscollidetoomuch.She’snotraisingherkidsto be scholarship fundinhermother’snameKeyWest. a thelinego toward from thebigboys—HSNandQVC,”sheadds.Allprofits are there York, &Taylor suchasLord she’shopingtohituplocalretailers andScoop.“Then inNew inMiami,butnowthatshe’sentrenched stones. ThelineissoldatEnAvance byWebb beaded braceletsandnecklaces—hand-strung semiprecious herself—madefrom calledIntheNameofLove. 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But forallthisgung-hoenthusiasmtojumpbackintotheindustry, Webb’s notletting Webb gig producer planstokeepbusywitheditorialwork,notmentionherrecent andart-strewn Now she’sback,nestledwithherfamilyinaMoroccan-themed That particular tableauisallyouneedtoknowaboutwhatWebb’sThat particular beenup Sea Animalcoloringbook.Herotherdaughter, Molly, climbedoverthe fashion all blackmodelsshotbyStevenMeisel.Shespentthedaycompiling a celluloidversionforhersyndicatedtalkshow, toairthefollowing gray Crayolacrayonthatherdaughter, Leila,desperatelyneededforher aWho’sWhoofblackmodelsinherChelsea month, andgathered n August,Tyra BankscelebratedItalian studio, includingPatCleveland,BeverlyJohnson,NoémieLenoirand taping began:Webb spentthetimeonhandsandkneeslookingfora .Veronica Webb AzzedineAlaïa too,ina fluffy wasthere, knit dress. But she had more important things on her mind before thingsonhermindbefore important Butshehadmore knit dress. The former modelreturns tothespotlight. Living Style With Gerry DeVeaux. LivingStyleWith Gerry MASTER Tim Gunn’sGuidetoStyle, ’s Julyissue,featuring In addition, she’s tackling the Inaddition,she’stacklingthe but but Veronica Veronica Webb a skintightredPVCtop;sheposesasVenus fromWagner’s to beperformedthisseason.AsBizet’s Carmen,Auermannlookswantonin photographer AndréRival,Auermannposesastheprotagonistoffouroperas without havingtoworryaboutwhetheritwillbesold,”shesays. even betterthandesigningfashion.You canjustletyourfantasyrunriot, by opera.“Istillthinkthatcostumedesignmustbeamazing.Possibly become oneofthekeymodelsNineties,butsheremainsfascinated with thehopesofbecomingacostumedesigner. Parisluredherawayto and asateenagercompletedaninternshipattheDeutscheOperBerlin certainly nostrangertoopera.Shesawherfirstproductionatagefour, backgrounds coming.” hate thethoughtofpeoplefromlotsdifferent I knowalotoftraditionaloperagoerswillprobably is workingontheprojectfreeofcharge,“eventhough being moredemocratized,”explainsAuermann,who to ayoungercrowd.“Ipersonallylovetheideaofopera decided todoinabidmakeoperamoreattractive is farfromaneverydayevent. topublicizeWagner, PucciniandStrauss most importantoperahousestouseaformer sword foraphotoshoot.Butthen,oneofGermany’s parasol inonehandwithasavagesamurai-styleswordtheother. as Puccini’s JapaneseprincessTurandot, coylybalancingadelicatepink opera house’s modernistelevator, whiletheseasonkicksoffwithAuermann absolutely nothingatall.Rivalplacesasaucy-lookingHelenofTroy inthe explains, when asked about the connection between modeling and explains, whenaskedabouttheconnectionbetweenmodelingand horse, wear fake armor and brandish a cardboard horse, wearfakearmorandbrandishacardboard In the publicity campaign, which was shot by Berlin fashion In thepublicitycampaign,whichwasshotbyBerlinfashion Auermann, whosegrandmotherwasaprofessionalsingerinBerlin,is This isexactlywhattheDeutscheOperBerlinhas “I view fashion photography also as a kind of art form,” Auermann “I viewfashionphotographyalsoasakindofartform,”Auermann has been asked to straddle a stuffed pantomime has beenaskedtostraddleastuffedpantomime It’s a opera. “Clothes for me are a means of self-expression, so when I do opera. “Clothesformeareameansofself-expression,sowhenIdo fair bet this is the first time Nadja Auermann fairbetthisisthefirsttimeNadjaAuermann a fashionshoot,Itrytofeelwhatthedesigneristryingsay. Fashion shotstrytotellastory.” —DAMIENMCGUINNESS Nadja Auermann Nadja posesassome of opera’s modelcharacters. LIKE DIVA Auermann as a Japanese princess in princess Tannhäuser opera house in Berlin. in house opera the at backstage Nadja Auermann Turandot A in in .

WEBB PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; AUERMANN BY MATTI HILLIG & - Café de Flore - Paris

WE INVITE YOU TO CONTACT US TO LEARN HOW TO BECOME AN AUTHORIZED LONGCHAMP DISTRIBUTOR LONGCHAMP USA, 435A US HIGHWAY 130 NORTH,YARDVILLE, NJ 08620 TEL: 609.581.5555, FAX: 609.581.5559 s fashion c o o HEADCASE p Hats are Stephen Jones’ top priority.

ovent Garden is the heart of London’s theater district, home to the Royal Opera House and street performers, and where King Charles II met Nell Gwyn. A veritable circus of activity and creativity, it’s the ideal setting for iconic milliner Stephen Jones’ atelier and boutique. Head-to-toe designer dressing may no longer be in vogue, but Jones is divinely happy devoting himself to the apex of that style equation. “Of course, in a way, you’re not clothing the body, but you are clothing the head,” the designer muses, breaking out into a mischievous grin. “And I’m sorry, Manolo [Blahnik], but you know the head is the most important part of the body.” Apologies also must go out to the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada. “Being a milliner is the most glorious thing you could possibly be,” Jones declares. “It’s just fabulous. Much better than being a dress designer, I think. It’s the cherry on the cake.” London’s Victoria and Albert Museum would seem to agree as it gears up for the first major exhibition devoted to headwear to be held in the U.K. Three years in the planning, “Hats: An Anthology,” which runs February 25 to May 10, is a curatorial collaboration between the museum and Jones, and will illustrate hat design and headpieces from Egyptian times to the present day, including many hats from Jones’ own archives. The exhibition represents an, ahem, crowning achievement for the designer, who has clocked a quarter of a century in millinery, amassing a devout following of famous and not-so- famous clients, not to mention legions of designers including , Vivienne Westwood, Emanuel Ungaro and Marc Jacobs. An adjunct to the exhibition will be a book by Jones and Oriole Cullen, Clockwise from top right: Wash and Go; Stephen Jones; a look by Jones for Marc Jacobs, spring 2009; for Model Millinery collection, , fall 2008; for Gareth Pugh, spring 2008. fashion curator at the V&A, with a forward by Galliano. Jones arrived in London in the mid-Seventies from his hometown of Liverpool, England. The product of private schooling and a middle-class background, he graduated in 1979 from St. Martins School of Art. Originally, which coincided with London Fashion Week in September, and will be available Jones apprenticed as a tailor at Couture House, but the millinery exclusively at Dover Street Market. The expansion into perfumery is just another workshop next door lured him in and he learned his trade under the expert facet of his thriving business. Although Jones has been successful since the early tuition of Shirley Hex, also mentor to , who, like Jones, became Eighties in London, it is thanks to the exposure of his name and his prominent one of Princess Diana’s favorite milliners. designs on the runways of Dior and Marc Jacobs that he has entered the Situated on Great Queen Street since 1995, Jones’ boutique employs fashion world headfirst. “Sales have gone up in recent years because suddenly the double frontage windows to present his hats as works of art. Within, designers are making hats an essential ingredient of their look,” Jones says. statuesque white-faced and swan-necked polystyrene busts rise up to show off Not content with producing three collections a year (Model Millinery, Miss his colorful and eclectic collections. Jones and Jones Boy), Jones constructs creations that take the stage on tours According to Jones, a hat is no longer only for formal occasions or for staving of pop stars, be it the diminutive or for her latest off winter chills. It’s an “accessory” that has become the repertoire of fashion. Sticky & Sweet tour. “People dress for instant reaction, eye candy, the instant effect, and that’s “Stephen Jones is a visionary artist that has reinvented millinery for a new what hats give you,” he explains. “They aren’t about deep meaning or hidden generation,” says Madonna’s stylist, Arianne Phillips. luxury. What you see is what you get.” There is, however, hot competition with the emergence of milliners of a “He has an amazing talent for creating very wearable hats, but also of similar pedigree. “There are people coming through—quite a lot from the creating the most opulent hats of pure fantasy,” enthuses , Royal [College],” Jones says. Notably there is Noel Stewart (who once acted adding, “He has impeccable taste, and a wonderful way of adjusting the scale as Jones’ apprentice) and Justin Smith’s bespoke millinery; Japanese-born of the hat in all the right places so that it’s perfectly suited to the wearer.” For Misa Harada, who, as well as legions of Japanese fans, counts Janet Jackson full effect, Jones designs his hats to be viewed from 1 meter (a little more than among her clients and has collaborated on runway shows for a yard) away. “They are about intimate detail,” he says. and Yohji Yamamoto, and, of course, Treacy. Galliano is just one designer who relies on Jones to top off his catwalk But, in Jones’ upbeat view, the more, the merrier. Even today’s talk of a creations. Rei Kawakubo, the elusive Comme des Garçons designer, adds, “I recession does not give Jones any headache. “Well, in a funny way, they’re always look forward to see what surprising creation he comes up with, and he’s a unnecessary,” he admits, “which of course makes them such a necessary real gentleman, too.” The pair also have collaborated on a perfume, the launch of thing.” —NATASHA MONTROSE WASH AND GO PHOTO COURTESY OF JUSTINEPHOTOGRAPHY; JONES, MODEL MILLINERY JONES, MODEL MILLINERY OF JUSTINEPHOTOGRAPHY; AND GO PHOTO COURTESY WASH BY TIM JENKINS; MARC JACOBS GEORGE CHINSEE

40 WWDscoop tenant representation owner representation strategic planning & site selection investment sales consulting services I JUST LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES. —KANYE WEST s GROWING UP, IT WAS IMPORTANT THAT MY c TWIN SISTER [SAMANTHA] AND I LOOKED EXACTLY THE SAME. SO WHEN WE WERE o 13, SHE CUT HER HAIR REALLY SHORT AT A o BARBER SHOP AND I HAD TO DO SO AS WELL. NOT CUTE. — CHARLOTTE RONSON p WAY TOO MANY. —JESSICA ALBA MY BIG EIGHTIES HAIR, THOUGH I MIGHT LOOK BACK IN 10 YEARS AT MY HAIR TONIGHT AND REGRET IT. —FERGIE

I HAD THIS PAIR OF BLACK MC HAMMER PARACHUTE AN OUTFIT OVERLOADED I SHOWED UP TO A CLIVE PANTS THAT I TUCKED INTO MY SOCKS EVERY DAY OF WITH PATTERNS AND DAVIS PARTY—DRUNK— SIXTH GRADE—THINKING NO ONE WOULD NOTICE I COLORS THAT A DESIGNER WITH A BLACK WIG WITH WORE THE SAME PAIR OF PANTS TO SCHOOL EVERY SENT ME. IN RETROSPECT, A BIG BOW LIKE FROM DAY. THEN THIS BOY I HAD A CRUSH ON TOTALLY I DON’T THINK I’D EVER HAIRSPRAY AND A CALLED ME OUT ON IT. —ELIZABETH BANKS REPEAT IT. AS I’VE GOTTEN DRESS. THAT PICTURE OLDER, MY TASTE HAS HAS COME BACK TO THERE’S THIS REALLY LONG GAULTIER COAT WITH BROAD / GOTTEN SIMPLER. HAUNT ME. SHOULDERS I BOUGHT WHEN I WAS STILL A STUDENT. IT — MONET MAZUR —KELLY OSBOURNE MUST HAVE BEEN 1996. AS I’M NOT VERY TALL, ON ME IT WAS TERRIBLE! — OLIVIER THEYSKENS WHAT WAS YOUR BIGGEST FASHION FAUX PAS? I THINK YOU’RE LOOKING AT IT RIGHT NOW. MANY, BUT I’M ALWAYS —JASON BIGGS PREPARED TO TAKE RISKS. THE MTV AWARDS IN THE NINETIES. I WORE SOMETIMES I FEEL YELLOW LEATHER JEANS. THEY WERE A CREAMY LIKE BLENDING IN COLOR. THEY WERE BEAUTIFUL. ON TOP OF THAT, I HAD A STRIPED TUBE TOP—IT WAS HIGH-FASHION, AND SOMETIMES DESIGNER CASHMERE. AND OVER THAT, A FUR I DON’T. — VEST. IT WAS OVERLOAD CENTRAL. —SHERYL CROW

A SHELL SUIT THAT

I’M YOUNG. TECHNICALLY I DID NOT BUY EVERYONE MAKES BUT WAS A PRESENT. NOT ONLY FASHION MISTAKES DID IT MAKE ME LOOK LIKE AN THEN. YOU’RE EXTRA FROM A KEEP FIT VIDEO, I SUPPOSED TO LOOK LIKE A DORK. THEN SAT IN FRONT OF THE GAS KNOCK ON WOOD, I —KIRSTEN DUNST FIRE IN IT AND MELTED IT TO HAVEN’T HAD AN AWFUL MY SKIN! — HENRY HOLLAND ONE YET. NOW, I’M GOING TO FALL OVER MAZUR PHOTO BY MIREK TOWSKI/FILMMAGIC; WEST BY TONY BARSON/WIREIMAGE; RONSON BY JEMAL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE; BANKS BY HUBERT BOESL MAZUR PHOTO BY MIREK TOWSKI/FILMMAGIC; WEST TONY BARSON/WIREIMAGE; RONSON JEMAL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE; BANKS HUBERT TINE/RETNA LTD. BY DENNIS VAN MARA BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN; DUNST NEILSON BARNARD/GETTY IMAGES; WATTS DPA/CORBIS; AND MY DRESS IS GOING 42 WWDscoop TO RIP. —KATE MARA The prints Dust and the buster. Balloonatic pauper. DISASTER AREA …Then again, some people just never learn.

Manic panic.

A wing and a prayer.

Uneasy rider.

Fool’s gold.

So sari.

Under the Starved for big top. attention. Harem scare ’em. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER

WWDscoop43 s arts & people c o ithin the heart of Paris’ garment district, in o STRANGER a dark 18th-century building, Philippe p Parreno’s intricate THAN wood reliefs provide the entryway into the artist’s sun-filled third- floor studio where he creates his works. FICTION Or, in his view, magic. “I believe in magic more and more. Philippe Parreno brings magic to his art. By Natasha Montrose Maybe I am going to turn into a magician and grow a long beard,” says Parreno, whose work relies on the juxtaposition between reality and fiction. “There is no difference between magic and art—the way you affect consciousness.” His oeuvre ranges from installations to drawings to performance pieces, and much of it is collaborative. For instance, his award-winning documentary film, Zidane: A 21st Century Portrait, which transformed the rigmarole of a soccer game into a piece of art, was made with his friend, the artist Douglas Gordon. The film is as long as a game, but the perspective is unique: Parreno focuses only on French soccer legend Zinédine Zidane. The latest show of his work continues his collaborations—sort of. In the forthcoming exhibition at New York’s Guggenheim Museum, “theanyspacewhatever,” which runs from October 24 to January 7, Parreno’s work will be shown along with that of Gordon and eight other artists including Maurizio Cattelan, Pierre Huyghe, Liam Gillick, Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Carsten Höller and Angela Bulloch, all of whom are better known in America. “The 10 artists grew organically, and have shared sensibilities and conceptual practices,” says Nancy Spector, the Guggenheim’s curator of contemporary art, who describes Parreno’s work as having a “poetic” and “ephemeral” quality. “[The artists] create by moving beyond representation. It comes at you in a peripheral way,” she says. The exhibition, sponsored by Hugo Boss, will present a genealogy of the artists’ shared history through site-specific installations of new, often self-reflexive works. Parreno plans to erect a large black marquee outside the museum that will be illuminated. “It will be like a big theater, a ghost of a marquee instead of a marquee itself—like a really shiny black construction that pops up from the construction of Frank Lloyd Wright, but there are no words on Philippe Parreno in his studio. it, so it’s like the label becoming more

important than the work itself,” he says, BIANCHI PHOTOS BY STEFANO PARRENO

44 WWDscoop Parreno at work.

adding he will lend his voice to the audio Postman Time, 2007. guide that will accompany the exhibition. “I try and focus on my own practice and obsession, which take many different forms,” explains Parreno. A still from The Boy From Mars. “Anything which changes consciousness, any use of signs, colors, words that affect consciousness whatever the format is.” The feeling by many in the art world is that this is his moment to shine. A sequel to his Zidane film is in the works, as is the completion of a recent performance in Japan, where he collaborated with American ventriloquist Ray Ron Lucas. “It’s a text that I wrote and I start speaking and then Ron starts speaking and in the end, the voices merge and you don’t know exactly who is speaking,” says Parreno, who’s represented by the trendy French gallery Air de Paris, which counts Gillick and Höller as part of its collective. And he already is thinking of his next project beyond the Guggenheim installation. “I am going to work around another general topic. It will also be a portrait, telling the fiction without telling the lies,” he says enigmatically. “I am not sure if this new project will be a solo project or with Douglas [Gordon], but I will start production in 2009 for 2010.” The artist, wearing jeans, an untucked shirt and Converse sneakers, is unassuming, leaving his art to do most of the talking for him. Born in Algeria in 1964 of Spanish-French heritage, Parreno was a mathematician before making the transition into art, a not-so-incongruous leap, considering the esteemed Renaissance artist Piero della Francesca was more commonly known as a mathematician in his day and, of course, Leonardo da Vinci was renowned

for his scientific and mathematical experiments. Parreno studied at the art The Boy From Mars neon sign, 2005. school in Grenoble, , and then at the Palais de Tokyo. Contemporary art was a late influence for him, and instead he cites TV and cinema as having a major impact on his work. But influence can come from Guggenheim. A retrospective is planned for next year, beginning at the many sources—Parreno also loves the memory-centric novels of W.G. Sebald; Kunsthalle in Zurich and traveling to Spain before finishing up in June at The the tortured-hero graphic novels of Alan Moore; French film directors Jean- Pompidou Centre in Paris, where Parreno wants to do something site specific. Luc Godard and François Truffaut, and artists ranging from Daniel Buren to “Each time I do something, it’s new. For the moment, I am doing some Josef Albers to Laurence Weiner. drawings,” he says, a multitude of the stencil illustrations neatly hanging in The breadth of his influences is mirrored in the reach of his means of rows on the wall of his studio. The drawings are mingled with text. “I always expression: videos, paintings, installations, manga. His all-encompassing start work by writing—it’s the transfer of language,” explains Parreno. view has worked in his favor since Parreno is one of France’s most successful Not that the artist transfers much of his own dialogue. Asked to indicate exports on the contemporary art scene, with his pieces exhibited at galleries the works that mean the most to him, Parreno replies simply that they’re most such as the Tate in London, the Musée d’art Moderne in Paris and the recent ones, but then adds, “Even perhaps the next.”

WWDscoop45 s arts & people c o GRECIANFORMULA o Demetri Gassoumis fi nds inspiration on the island of Hydra. p emetri Gassoumis is a painter with a grasp of the power of place. Since 1959, the 75-year-old Greek- American has been gypsying back and forth between his native California, New York and the picturesque, well-storied Greek island of Hydra, where his mother grew to womanhood. His family has roots on the island dating back to 1850. Demetri Gassoumis What draws him to Hydra was recently put on and two of his colorful display when Gassoumis held a one-man show paintings. of landscape paintings in the island’s Melina Mercouri Auditorium and then took part in a group show held at a nearby museum. He has a strong following on Hydra, which has in Oakland. Twenty years long been associated with artists and writers. Celebrated painter Brice later, he joined the faculty Marden usually spends Augusts on the island and singer- as an instructor in color and Leonard Cohen still owns the house where he lived and worked as a composition. poet in the Sixties. Although Gassoumis sees When Gassoumis held his first show on Hydra in July of 2002, he himself as a painter, rather received a glowing review from none other than Panayiotis Tetsis, who than an artist—“I like to paint; is from Hydra and whom many consider to be Greece’s greatest living it’s about paint”—he found painter. Describing Gassoumis’ work as “a very beautiful example of another way of making a robust painting,” Tetsis, who is a professor of painting and dean of living when he later moved to the School of Fine Arts in Athens, writes: “The integrity, strength and New York: silhouetted paper sensitivity of his paintings are his virtues.” portraits of people. Two layers Some islanders, such as fellow artist Iris Kharami, talk in terms of of paper are torn by hand in Gassoumis following in the Hydriot tradition of top-flight landscape such a way as to create shadow artists. Like Tetsis, Gassoumis uses deep, rich colors. In his latest show, the and the illusion of depth and paintings capture the mood of the contemplative light seen around sunset three-dimensionality. “The part and early in the morning, when earth tones are their most intense. that isn’t there is what makes White-haired with a trim, agile frame, Gassoumis has a sharp mind the portrait,” he says of the shadow effect. “A perfect portrait with and an easy, self-deprecating sense of humor. “Most people at my age imperfect materials” is how he describes the process, noting that once he are dead,” he shoots back when asked about his future plans, which did a sitting with a whole family, including wife, dog and baby. “They all involve setting up shop in Athens. “Obviously, I will have to do some wanted to be in the nude,” he recalls. paintings of the Acropolis because I’ll be in Athens—that will be a Gigs like that allowed Gassoumis to succeed handily in a profession challenge,” he observes wryly. where survival is often dubious. The paintings at the last show were priced Right now he’s doing more Hydra paintings (“Some really good, from 4,000 euros, or about $5,800, to 15,000 euros, or $21,900, but some so-so”), and he’s not alone. Judging from the ubiquitous art that seemed almost beside the point. Gassoumis clearly got the biggest exhibits around the port, Hydra is a compelling spot for landscape charge out of talking to young art students. “I need to have the young painters. Rows of whitewashed buildings rise up the hillsides people around me,” he says, referring to the energy of both students and surrounding the harbor like a Cubist punch bowl. Instead of streets, the contemporary art scene. there are thousands of steps and tiny cobblestone walkways snaking up His nonchalance about the selling side of the art world belies the heights around the houses, some of them former mansions built by the precision of his work. Gassoumis is able to capture and convey a shipowners during Hydra’s maritime boom in the 1800s. Everything subtle mood expressed by a particular light at a certain time of day, from tourists’ luggage to easy chairs and washing machines move up the all with a palette of only three colors. “I use Prussian blue, yellow steps on backs of trudging donkeys. Then there’s the crystalline blue sky ochre and Venetian red—and white,” he says, insisting it gives him serving as the ever-present backdrop for the even deeper blue sea. more freedom. “I find that all the colors that I make have to be made Gassoumis’ connection with the island began when his father, a up of those three colors and they harmonize. It’s so easy all of a former villager from central Greece, arrived from America, where he sudden. You want this a little darker—you add a little Prussian blue acquired U.S. citizenship, thanks to his service in World War 1 and a or Venetian red. If you add [those two together], you make the most new name of Mike, courtesy of an immigration official on Ellis Island. beautiful black, a rich black.” Mike married Gassoumis’ mother in a church on the island that was And there is little doubt painting is his passion—even if he describes across from their future son’s present house and took his wife back the process simply. “I like doing landscapes; I feel freer,” he says. “When to the San Francisco Bay Area, where little Gassoumis grew up and you are outside and paint directly from nature, there’s no thinking later graduated in 1959 from the California College of Arts and Crafts involved. You start painting. That’s blue, that’s red.” —PETE BORN GASSOUMIS PHOTO BY PETE BORN 46 WWDscoop

s arts & people c o o p DR AWINGTHELINE David Downton brings back the art of illustration. By Katya Foreman

igital cameras and cell phones may be viewed as the golden recorders of today’s blink-and- miss-it fashion age, but, armed with nothing more than the humble brush-pen and ink, David Downton is on a mission to defend the noble art of fashion illustration. During London Fashion Week, Downton launched his second magazine dedicated to the craft and its masters. Dubbed Pourquoi Pas? (or Why Not?), the 76-page work features golden-oldie profiles of René Gruau and Tony Viramontes, one of the defining illustrators of the Eighties, seen, respectively, through the eyes of fashion critic Suzy Menkes and milliner Stephen Jones, as well as a Q&A with the contemporary illustration “genius” Christian Lacroix. In lieu of watercolors or ink, Lacroix is one of the few established designers who have perfected the technique of computer-generated fashion sketches. “What used to paralyze me—the wasted paper, the irreversible or ill brush strokes, the uncoverable blunders—have all evaporated,” Lacroix says. Next spring, Downton will stage a fashion-based exhibition of black-and-white large-scale drawings at London’s Mayor Gallery on Cork Street. “Illustration is still extremely popular with designers and the public alike, but remains generally undervalued and under the wire,” says the artist. A hunched front-row fixture on the couture circuit, Downton regards illustration as a unique means of immortalizing the spirit of a collection or event, that’s equally as valid as images produced by the pack of snappers camped at the end of each runway. “It’s another point of view—with the best illustrator, you have a single vision. That old cliché of eye, hand and heart is what you engage with drawings; it’s a really personal sensibility,” he continues, adding that very few tools are required. “Whereas photography [involves] a whole production process, here you have somebody drawing. It’s “ILLUSTRATION IS STILL that elemental.” A prolific fashion EXTREMELY POPULAR illustrator, Downton’s WITH DESIGNERS AND accomplishments in THE PUBLIC ALIKE, BUT the field include being invited to “record” REMAINS GENERALLY Chanel’s métiers d’art UNDERVALUED AND collection in December UNDER THE WIRE. ” 2007, as well as a couture spread for V magazine in 2005 featuring . The seven-hour-long sitting took place at Paris’ George V hotel. “I got to pick the clothes. It was like fashion illustration once was, with hair and makeup…the works,” recalls Downton, who churns out hundreds of drawings for his series before returning to his studio, based in a former newspaper office in Brighton, England, to work on the final selection. Unceremoniously usurped by photography in style magazines during World War II, fashion illustration continues to flourish across a variety of media including flyers, textiles and posters. The last two years in particular, according to Downton, have seen an upswell in interest, with a variety of artists tapped for brand collaborations. These include James Jean for Prada’s fairies collection this spring, and Tanya Ling, whose prints feature on ’s cruise 2009 collection. Like the dramatic art-world ascent of once-off-the-radar graffiti artists such as Banksy, the niche genre of fashion illustration is set to take off with a spurt in collectors of original works. “There is a market for it, but because these artists are principally focused on fashion illustration, they’re often categorized out of exhibiting

opportunities, so I’m filling that niche,” says William Ling of OF CHRISTIAN LACROIX OF RENEGRUAU.COM; LACROIX COURTESY COURTESY GRUAU DRAWING

An Yves Saint Laurent illustration by David Downton.

48 WWDscoop Dress by Dior, a drawing in ink with brush and gouache by René Gruau, 1955.

London’s FashionIllustrationGallery.com, which opened in April 2007. He adds that, whereas historically illustration was a hand-drawn or painted art, new takes center on hybrid digital and hand-drawn techniques, either done by hand or computer. Ling discloses he’s busy working on what he claims will be New York’s biggest fashion illustration exhibition, due to open in February at an undisclosed venue. “Fashion illustration is all over the place, but it’s not in the place where you used to find it,” comments Downton, alluding to the craft’s heyday in the early 20th century when leading artists—including Georges Lepape, Etienne Drian, André Edouard Marty and Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)—were the first port of call for fashion magazines such as La Gazette du Bon Ton, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. “They were the Mario Testinos, the Steven Meisels [of the day]. Paul Poiret commissioned several fashion drawings and textile print designs from artists including , Georges Lepape, Raoul Dufy and Erté. At the time, photography was not considered an art form but a method of recording,” says Downton, citing as example the illustrator Carl Erickson, who enjoyed a 30-year contract with Vogue from the Twenties to the late Fifties. Erickson’s delightful watercolors included one of two bathing beauties in front of a striped beach tent, commissioned for the cover of Vogue’s “hot weather fashions” issue of July 1, 1934. “[Erickson] would stay at the and charge shirts from Turnbull & Asser. They were artists and had a first-class lifestyle,” marvels Downton. Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol, who started out as a commercial illustrator, are among major art-world figures to have dabbled in fashion illustration. “The line is so blurred between fine art and fashion illustration,” comments Downton. “Warhol is the classic case of somebody who, midstream, closed the door on fashion illustration, as he knew it wouldn’t be taken seriously.” With a new generation of photographers nipping at its heels, illustration’s spell over fashion began to fade during the mid-Forties, with Vogue’s Edna Woolman Chase declaring illustrators too costly and difficult to deal with. “In the Thirties, photographers such as Man Ray were exploring extremely innovative ideas with photography and were trying to apply it to fashion,” says Cally Black, author of 100 Years of Fashion Illustration. Photographers, in hot demand, successfully bumped illustrators from the front covers of style bibles, with the genre largely relegated to the accessories and lingerie sections by the Sixties. But it was René Bouché’s death in 1963, according to Black, that truly marked the end of an era. A few nods to the art have surfaced since, including the avant-garde style magazine Vanity in the Eighties, edited by Anna Piaggi, and La Mode en Peinture, the illustrated fashion magazine in the Eighties published by Assouline. Downton’s own accidental foray into fashion illustration can be traced to July 1996 when, as a 37-year-old freelance illustrator, he was sent by The Financial Times to sketch a Versace couture show held at the Ritz hotel in Paris. “It was like stepping into Narnia. I had no idea that this spinning universe existed,” he says, recalling with a guffaw his bungled attempts to capture the likes of Kate Moss, , Linda Evangelista and sashaying across a marble catwalk stretched across the hotel’s swimming pool. “I couldn’t get the rhythm of it at all well,” he says, adding that even today the form is hit and miss—producing one drawing for every 10 that are “rubbish.” Downton honed his craft by “bluffing his way into off-limits fittings and show rehearsals where he would knock out preliminary skeleton sketches using a brush pen and Rotring ink or “anything that will make a fast, indelible mark.” Above: David Downton in But for all his support and creative liberty at a time when the art has no received action sketching style, no one way of working, Downton concedes that it’s unlikely that illustration Erin O’Connor. Left: A computer-generated sketch will ever rise again to become fashion’s dominant recorder. by Christian Lacroix. “What is fascinating is that everyone loves it, but they don’t know what to do with it. Valentino would allow me in to draw because he loves drawing, but he wouldn’t necessarily have used it in a campaign,” says Downton, recalling an exchange he had recently with a model backstage at a Dior couture show. “She saw me sketching, came over and exclaimed, ‘Oh, that’s so new,’ and I thought, no, it’s so old,” says Downton. “I found it quite sweet. It is sort of unusual, I guess.”

WWDscoop49 A view of Pace Beijing’s installation of Encounters.

s c o o p THEARTOFMOVEMENT New York galleries set up shop in China.

n a sultry July evening, a 200-strong crowd gathered Arthur Solway, the director of Cohan’s Shanghai gallery. “For a while, I in the courtyard of the newly opened James Cohan had an increasing personal interest in China,” he adds. “At that point [in Gallery in Shanghai. The New York–based gallery, 2007], we decided that we were going to look for a space in Shanghai. which shows several blue-chip artists such as Bill The initial vision was to find an historic property, and put art in it.” Viola and Yinka Shonibare, had just opened its space, Solway arrived in January and in six short months opened the gallery located in a renovated mansion in the city’s in an Art Deco mansion a lane’s walk off of Yue Yang Road, the city’s French Concession. The backyard of the mansion, which street. Faded Chinese characters are printed atop the main entrance contained a Richard Long sculpture, was filled with a mix of to the gallery reading: “Let the Spirit of Mao Reign for 10,000 Years.” the city’s expats and art-world denizens and was mostly a casual In addition to the space, the mansion houses an interior design office on affair—that is, until Jay Jopling and his entourage appeared. Despite its upper floors—a far cry from its former use as an army barracks. the muggy day, Jopling, the London dealer behind the White Cube Its location is distinctly Shanghai, just as Pace Beijing’s space has gallery, was dressed in the art world uniform of a black suit and crisp become reflective of that city’s art scene. Located in the Dashanzi area white shirt. What was he doing amongst the hoi polloi of Shanghai? on the city’s Fourth Ring Road, the new gallery takes over a space in the According to the gallery, Jopling isn’t up to anything in China—but Factory 798, which, in the last few years, has become the art district of it wouldn’t be much of a surprise if he were. While the art world has the city, given its close proximity to the Central Academy of Fine Arts. been flocking to China for years for biennales and art fairs, 2008 is The factory building, with soaring ceilings, was built by East German a turning point for cities such as Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, architects in the Fifties. Pace’s inaugural exhibition, Encounters, included where some of the world’s most established galleries are setting up shop. artists as diverse as Takashi Murakami, Cindy Sherman and Yue Minjun, The opening of Cohan was followed by Pace Wildenstein settling into the Chinese artist known for his paintings of figures with large, smiling a 22,000-square-foot space in Beijing’s 798 district in August. It soon faces. Helmed by Leng, a renowned Beijing-based art critic and curator, will be joined by Gagosian, which is hunting for a space in Hong Kong. the gallery’s programmatic mix between Western and Chinese artists has According to Asia managing director Nick Simunovic, Gagosian hopes still not been decided. “Since we have just opened our gallery in Beijing, to be up and running in “the near future.” it would be a bit too early to predict at this point,” says Leng. Without a doubt, all this movement is spurred by the hot Chinese art While Beijing and Shanghai have been unique places for expansion, market. However, many of these galleries, such as Gagosian and Cohan, the art and real estate landscape in Hong Kong is considerably different. will not be showing much contemporary Chinese art. Instead, they Simunovic, who formerly worked in development at the Guggenheim will be bringing in their normal rosters of established Western artists to Foundation, initially arrived in Shanghai with the intention of setting what Simunovic calls an “underserved” market. “Collectors don’t need up Gagosian’s Asia operations. However, given the liberal tariff laws Gagosian to see what’s going on in the Asian contemporary market,” he in Hong Kong—and the availability of a much more mature business says. “New collectors’ access to the primary and secondary market for structure—he shifted courses and settled in the former British colony, contemporary art has not traditionally been there.” For a powerhouse where the gallery currently has offices and is on the hunt for a such as Pace, which already represents current contemporary Chinese showroom. But the scarcity of large spaces in the center of the city has art stars such as Zhang Huan and Zhang Xiaogang, the Beijing outpost made the search difficult. “We’re happy to be patient for something to is also about trying to tap into a new audience for its established artists, come along,” he says. Gagosian shows the world’s biggest art stars, such such as Chuck Close and Alex Katz. “The gallery will be international, as Damien Hirst, Richard Serra and John Currin, and routinely fetches covering both Western and Eastern art, but with a slight focus on Asia,” top sums for their work. While the big collectors are all interested in says Leng Lin, the president of Pace’s Beijing gallery. important names, Simunovic observes that the interest is evenly keeled. Additionally, their arrivals indicate an increase in wealthy new active “We want to be patient and methodical in China,” he says. collectors in China and in other parts of Asia. After the successful 2007 In time, given the size of the Chinese market, it is inevitable that more launch of SH Contemporary, the art fair run by Art Basel veteran galleries—not just from New York or London—will follow. “The New York Lorenzo Rudolf, a number of galleries such as Cohan began to map out galleries will come here because they want to have the presence and they will the market potential of Shanghai. “[The success for us at the art fair] want to be a part of China,” says Solway. “People [in China] have so much

reinforced that having a gallery here wasn’t such a far-fetched idea,” says more than they used to have. It’s exciting for them.” —ANDREW YANG BEIJING OF PACE CHAO/COURTESY PHOTO BY YANG

50 WWDscoop 583058D1_LUX_A-RB_2143-2140 Hotel_WWD.indd 1 6/26/08 8:49:08 PM s arts & people c o o PAGINGDR.LEARY p With a fancy-schmancy new title, the comedian trips out on his mother, the church and Hollywood.

enis Leary’s brand of humor isn’t for the bashful or faint of WWDScoop: And speaking of impressive, congrats on the doctorate, Dr. heart. No matter your gender, sexual orientation or political Leary. Do you feel smarter? persuasion, he’ll most likely say something to infuriate D.L.: No. I don’t know if I could get into that college now because it’s so you. Certainly there is no shortage of zingers in his latest much more competitive. It’s only because I’m a famous guy that they gave endeavor, the book Why We Suck: A Feel Good Guide it to me. There’s guys I could name that went to school with me at the to Staying Fat, Loud, Lazy and Stupid, out from Viking same time who are so much more deserving—they’re, like, running studios November 18 and attributed to Dr. Denis Leary, thanks to an and stuff. I went to school with Mario Cantone. He’s a really talented guy. honorary doctorate from his alma mater, Emerson College. Leary, If he was slightly more famous, he could get that and he probably will. 51, got his start on the Boston stand-up circuit and went on to a stint on MTV, a one-man show called No Cure for Cancer and cult films such as The WWDScoop: What wisdom did you impart to today’s youth? Ref. In his newest tome, he applies his signature expletive-laden verbiage to D.L.: The whole theory of “these are the four best years of your life”—my everything from autism and obesity to his own theory was it’s not. High school was the four Irish Catholic upbringing, leaving little of the best, these were the next four best and life is current American cultural and political climate not short, it’s really long, especially because of unscathed. Leary took time from shooting the the drugs they have now. We live for a really fifth season of his Emmy-nominated television long time and the longer you live, the worse it drama Rescue Me to chat with WWDScoop. gets because you have to pay back the student —VANESSA LAWRENCE loans, which is a 20-year process, and then you get married and once you get married, you start WWDScoop: There’s a lot of autobiographical having less sex because you have kids and then material in here, particularly about your mother. there’s no time to have sex and then there’s this How do you think she’s going to take it when growing bitter resentment between you and she reads it? your mate…. Denis Leary: I think she’ll look at the book and realize it’s her words and it’s not an WWDScoop: Heartwarming. And now with interpretation. She’s very proud of who she Rescue Me you’re acting, you’re writing, you’re is, and rightfully so. There was no bulls--t in producing—are you a control freak? her house. I remember one time her telling a D.L.: Everything in the movie business is built Catholic parish priest in our house who was to f--k actors up, over or f--k them up on the paying a visit to us, I forget what the question set: It’s too noisy, it’s too long, the hours are was, but he was drinking her free whiskey and insane, there’s too much coverage. Or they’re he said some incredibly inane mystical crap operating out of fear and it’s all about people about something…and my mom said, “Put who don’t know what they’re doing. So you down that whiskey and get the hell out of my end up with $120 million for a movie that house right now.” We never saw him again. could be shot for $60 million. I’m gonna take the paycheck and go and play the bad guy in WWDScoop: Do you ever worry about Batman 3 if they give it to me and I’ll expect a nonfamily members, like some of the celebrities 17-hour day. But if I’m producing it, I’d much you call out, how they’ll react? rather have control of the money, control of the time….So I don’t have D.L.: I kind of take pride in it. Like called me a c--t, and in Ireland, any walkie-talkies on my set, I don’t have any extraneous noise. You get c--t doesn’t mean what it means here, but he called me a c--t because I to work in the morning and it’s all about the actors and what they want to made fun of him about the rain forest thing 20 years ago on MTV. I said, do and what they need for the scene and then everybody has a blast. “Jesus, I just got called a c--t by Sting—that’s pretty impressive.” WWDScoop: How much of your humor do you attribute to your childhood WWDScoop: In the prologue you mention trying to position this as a and experiences with the Catholic church? humor self-help book. Do you think people are going to read it like that? D.L.: I’m sure some of it comes from the bleak optimistic/pessimistic D.L.: There’s this culture of apathy and stupidity, which in my opinion is approach to life that the Irish have, which is expect the worst to happen never better exemplified than by the guy who was elected president and the and look forward to getting it over with quick….Almost every comedian way he was elected because people thought, “Oh, I’ll have a beer with the of note in this country has come from the working class or slightly middle guy” and he’s a raging alcoholic….I’m hoping some other books people class. There’s a bit of a struggle involved and usually religious repression of will have to study in colleges will be addressing the same issues because I’m some kind. I thank God every day that I was brought up in the Catholic talking about skinny jeans; hopefully there are other people talking about church because I think it was about sixth grade that we started looking at how we have to change our financial and ecological outlook. each other and going, “What the f--k is this bulls--t about?” PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV PHOTO BY PASHA 52 WWDscoop

s arts & people c o o p AFOR EIGNAFFAIR After three books set in France, Diane Johnson heads to Morocco.

iane Johnson is perhaps most widely known for her witty and knowing takes on Franco-American relations. Her best-selling Le Divorce cast a comedic and insightful eye on the romantic dalliances (and divergences) between Parisian and U.S. natives, became a film starring Naomi Watts and Kate Hudson and was followed by two more French-tinged crowd-pleasers: Le Mariage and L’Affaire. Johnson knows of what she speaks, since for the past 10 years she’s divided her time between Paris and San Francisco. But Gallic-Golden Gate discordance can take one only so far. Come October, Johnson broadens her horizon to provide an equally adept take on Muslim-British encounters with Lulu in Marrakech (Dutton), her first piece of fiction in five years. And, again, she’s writing from experience—she wrote Persian Nights after a 1979 trip to Iran with her medical professor husband, John, and that, along with time spent in Cairo in the early Nineties, has continued to inform her interest in Islam. Set in Morocco, as its title suggests, the book follows Lulu Sawyer, an American CIA agent deployed to the North African country to hole up with a British beau, Ian Drumm, while investigating financial trails from charities to Islamic terrorist groups. Once there, she finds herself immersed in a social world in which British, American and Middle Eastern wealth and behavioral mores collide. For Lulu, Johnson, 74, visited Morocco and drew on the exploits of a family friend who’d been a CIA spy in the Fifties and Sixties—not, as one might think, a certain American female agent. “It didn’t come from Valerie Plame,” says Johnson. “In a way my heart sank when she surfaced. I thought, oh, no. Because I was already under way with the book.” But Johnson need not have worried, for Lulu is not a stereotypical spy. More Ingrid Diane Bergman in Notorious than James Bond’s stoic female counterpart, she proves an intelligent Johnson but humorously flawed character who finds herself navigating a seemingly unknowable foreign terrain. Certainly the latter experience is one with which Johnson is familiar, having lived in England and China, in addition to her current Parisian residence. Born in a small Illinois town, she was instilled with a love of travel by her father, who served in Italy during . “He was an Iowa farm boy who enlisted with his horse,” explains Johnson, whose favorite childhood book was, tellingly, Around the World With Bob and Betty. “He saw Venice there and never got over it. He just thought that was the most wonderful experience of his life.” It wasn’t until graduate school that Johnson was able to fulfill her wanderlust, however. After attending Stephens College in Missouri, she was earning her Ph.D. in English Literature at UCLA when she decided to live abroad. “I was divorced. I had four little children and I got a Woodrow Wilson grant, so I took the children to London and began to write my dissertation,” recalls Johnson, who has been nominated for a Pulitzer Prize twice. “I can still remember stepping off the plane and finding myself in England. I was just tremendously moved.” The impact of foreign soil clearly stuck. Except for an early stint in Hollywood (she wrote the screenplay for Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining after the director chose to adapt Stephen King’s book over her own, The Shadow Knows), Johnson has spent most of her adult life abroad—and inevitably writing about her experiences. And even after 10 years leading a binational life, she says she is still a victim of culture shock herself. “When I get home from France for the year, for about two weeks everyone says, ‘Oh you look so française!’ I suppose it’s that I’m wearing French clothes,” says Johnson. “Then

after two weeks, it goes away.” —VANESSA LAWRENCE JOHNSON PHOTO BY ISABELLE BOCCON-GIBOT

54 WWDscoop After tackling tough topics like AIDS and THEPLOTTHICKENS homosexuality, playwright Craig Lucas heads for Iraq.

was the child of a teenage pregnancy who was abandoned by his birth parents. At five months, he was adopted by a couple in Pennsylvania. His adoptive father worked as an FBI agent for the first part of his career, then went to work for several midsize corporations in personnel. His mom worked in a cheese shop and painted as a hobby. “She adored me. She gave me the sense of mattering, and she gave me the confidence to be a writer,” Lucas says. But she also drank, and when she did, she got into bed with her son. “I don’t know now after some further investigation how much was real and how much I imagined,” Lucas says. He and his father never discussed the matter until Lucas confronted him about it a few years ago, shortly before his father’s death. “His response was something like, ‘Do you want another beer?’” Lucas says. “He was just a quiet guy. He couldn’t discuss his emotions.” At 18, Lucas enrolled at Boston University, where he studied with the poet Anne Sexton. “She was the one who told me to skip playwriting school and head to New York,” he says. So he did, initially working as an actor on Broadway and then as a Craig Lucas playwright. First came Reckless and Blue Window, then Prelude to a Kiss, which was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize in 1990 and developed into a film. s far as Craig Lucas is concerned, the world is headed straight A kind of Freaky Friday for the theater set, the play told the story of a for the apocalypse. woman who exchanges a kiss with a dying old man at her wedding and winds up “There’s this thing we’re living with now,” he says, trading bodies with him. During the couple’s honeymoon, the groom realizes sitting in his house in upstate New York, “which is that we his wife’s soul has left her body, and that to get her back, he must find the old can actually completely destroy ourselves. We’re very close.” man and learn to fall in love with him, despite his looking nothing like his wife. The Bush administration, he says, “has shredded the Constitution” and led It was a wacky story, but it worked on a number of levels: First, it raised the us into Iraq to fight a war without purpose. question of what is love without the physical. Second, while the play seemed The media is now owned by “three corporations,” and has more interest to literally be about a man trying to save his wife, it also resonated with gay in “Britney Spears’ pouter, Michael Phelps’ abs, John Edwards’ haircut and men who at the time were watching AIDS turn their lovers from objects of ’s pantsuits” than anything substantive. physical perfection into decaying and dying people. Even editorial page has let us down, he says, pointing Lucas’ own boyfriend died in 1995, a few years after the release of the not just to conservatives like Bill Kristol and David Brooks, but also to film. So did countless friends. To this day, he can’t explain why he remains Maureen Dowd, whom he calls a “circus stunt performer who’s interested uninfected: “I had sex with 1,200 people and I’m HIV negative. I’m the only in who’s winning and losing.” luckiest person who ever lived.” Of course Lucas is going to be angry about the Republican Party and the Unfortunately, gratitude is never absolute—particularly when you’ve war in Iraq. Naturally he’s going to think the press has let us down. He’s a gay survived something that’s killed so many people you know. As Lucas puts it, playwright and screenwriter from liberal New York who has spent the last 25 “Yeats said the greatest surprise in any man’s life is his old age. I didn’t think years writing about the AIDS crisis and homophobia, first in the theater and I would be lucky enough to have an old age. I would not, for any amount of then in Hollywood, penning scripts for films like Longtime Companion (1990) money, want to be in my teens, 20s or 30s. They were horrible. They were and The Dying Gaul (2005), which he also directed. hard, they were confusing, and everybody behaved miserably, most especially What’s more remarkable is that the play he’s just written, Prayer for My me; 57 is great. I’m loving being alive, I love my work, I love the way it turns Enemy, opening December 9 at in , tells the green here every single year. But the way I have always related to the world is story of a Marine headed for combat in Iraq, and does so with almost no air of through touch and love and being alive with another human being, and the judgment at all. great difficulty for me now is that I’m doing it single….And I’m invisible.” Thank Chekhov. “I did a translation of Three Sisters a couple of years ago and It’s as if growing up and getting older for a playwright is nothing so then Uncle Vanya,” he explains. “I’ve since done Brecht’s Galileo and Strindberg’s much as coming to the realization that life isn’t going to be a Shakespearean Miss Julie. But the Chekhov really affected me because he achieves so much by historical play or a Tennessee Williams melodrama, but instead something simply leaving out the thing you don’t need and sticking to that which may be quieter, something more Chekhovian. observed, dispensing with a lot of what we think of as plot. I found it revelatory.” And the quiet resignation that he feels about his sexuality seems to have So he put the technique to use with a story about two childhood friends impacted his playwriting, which has become more subtle, more about anxiety who reconnect on the of one’s first tour of Iraq. Neither of the young men and loneliness than drama and pageantry. “One of the things that’s moving identify as gay, but neither is entirely straight. The father of the man headed for about Uncle Vanya is that nothing really changes,” Lucas says. “And it’s Iraq is a recovering alcoholic and has something resembling Tourette’s syndrome. beautiful. It’s sort of what one sees up here: people enduring. I’ve tried There is much conflict, but nobody really knows how to communicate. different things [in my plays] over the years—absurdity and playfulness and Which Lucas can relate to, even if the story line of the play bares little some of the conventions of revenge tragedy. But I wanted to set aside those

PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV PHOTO BY PASHA resemblance to his own biographical particulars. Born in Atlanta in 1951, he things this time. They feel childish to me now.” —JACOB BERNSTEIN

WWDscoop55 s design c o o EXTREMEMACHINE p Lamborghini unveils the limited edition Reventón.

ore like the Batmobile than just Made of a carbon fiber material that is as another fancy sports car, light as it is stable, the car is named after the the new Reventón from bull that took the life of ace torero Félix Lamborghini is the fastest, Guzmán in 1943—the bull being the icon most costly and on all Lamborghinis. most extreme car the But unlike earthly creatures, the company has ever built. aerodynamic Reventón has a maximum With a super price tag of speed of 211 miles an hour. $1.5 million, only 20 cars will The car comes only in a matte gray green leave the assembly plant near Bologna, Italy. shade that shimmers subtly in daylight and has “Reventón is the most extreme of all a glass laminate hood with open ventilation slits Lamborghinis; it’s the supercar for the for a glimpse of the 12-cylinder engine. records,” says Stephan Winkelmann, president Next-generation airplane cockpits inspired and chief executive officer of the legendary sports the interior, with the instruments lodged in a dash car marque. “It was conceived and produced in only milled from a solid aluminum block and sheathed in 12 months and sold out in one week. Its uniqueness has carbon fiber. And, proving the Reventón is an out-of- made it legendary, and we’re proud of having turned it into this-world ride, the dials even include a g-force meter. a point of reference for the car world.” —ALESSANDRA ILARI

“IT’S THE SUPERCAR FOR THE RECORDS. ” LAMBORGHINI PHOTO BY DAVID MCNEW/GETTY IMAGES LAMBORGHINI PHOTO BY DAVID

56 WWDscoop A Boffi - designed kitchen and frescoed JOI NTHE master bedroom. MEDICIS Florence gets ready for its fi rst private club.

n a country where the concept of a private club is still somewhat foreign, Club Tornabuoni in Florence will be a stylish and luxurious icebreaker. Members will be given the chance to stay in the Medicean Palazzo Tornabuoni Corsi, which overlooks tony shopping street Via Tornabuoni and is a few steps away from the Ponte Vecchio on the river Arno, the Uffizi museum and the Cathedral. The club is backed by former Calvin Klein licensee The interior of Fingen SpA and its real estate division RDM, Club Tornabuoni. with an investment of 110 million euros, or about $161 million. Italy’s first private residence club will stretch an entire block between Via Tornabuoni and Via Strozzi, and comprise 36 apartments over five floors totaling about 173,000 square feet of residential space. The number of memberships is limited to 288. “This is all about luxury lifestyle, connected to wine tasting, cooking lessons, exclusive cultural excursions, shopping and traditional craftsmanship,” says Jacopo Mazzei, chairman and chief executive officer of RDM. The apartments, furnished with top Italian brands such as Boffi kitchens, are slated to be finished in January, after three years of restoration. Artisans carefully recovered frescoes from Agostino Ciampelli, a statue of Diana by 17th-century artist Gherardo Silvani and 18th-century fireplaces with mosaics featuring animal scenes by Giacomo Raffaelli, among other challenges. Members will own a share in the apartments—no more than eight people for each—and a system of rotation will guarantee a five-week minimum stay. Rates range from 218,000 euros, or $320,000, for a studio, and 331,000 euros, or $485,000, for a one-bedroom apartment to 549,000 euros, or $803,000, for a two- or three-bedroom apartment.

Palazzo Tornabuoni “The club is aimed at an international community,” says Mazzei. “Our target is someone who loves Italy and Florence, someone with a strong cultural base, with diverse passions and interests, who plans a continuous presence here.” While declining to reveal names, Mazzei says membership already totals 80 and includes a scriptwriter, a number of entrepreneurs and even a Nobel Prize winner. “There is nothing bling about Club Tornabuoni. It’s about Italian luxury lifestyle, but it’s not Sardinia or Capri,” says Mazzei. Access to private galleries, viewing of artistic restorations and cultural and oenogastronomic tours will be available through the organization, as will gardening courses or grape harvesting. A living room. Club Tornabuoni is only the first step for RDM, which plans to extend the concept to ski and beach resorts, and to cities such as Rome and Venice. The company also is said to be developing Bulgari’s resort near Bolgheri in Tuscany and is the developer of the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence in a building it owns. —LUISA ZARGANI

WWDscoop57 s design c o Architecture fi rm Oyler Wu makes its mark. o TOLIVEANDDESIGNINL.A.

ritish architecture critic Reyner Banham p Jenny Wu and observed in his 1972 book, Los Angeles, Dwayne Oyler “Once the history of the city is brought under review, it is immediately apparent that no city has ever been produced by such an extraordinary mixture of geography, climate, economics, demography, mechanics and culture; nor is it likely that an even remotely similar mixture will ever occur again.” Think what you will about many of Los Angeles’ A rendering of the traditions, but to design structures in the City of Angels Pendulum Plane project in Los Angeles. requires architects to adapt to that mixture, especially given its changing, and forever sprawling, landscape. Few young architecture offices better exemplify this agglomeration than Taipei tower is for mixed used that incorporates retail on the ground Oyler Wu, founded by Dwayne Oyler and Jenny Wu, where the mix of projects floors with apartments on the upper floors. Currently being redesigned sits at the intersection of the urban and suburban and reflects the city’s constant and enlarged after their client acquired an adjacent plot of land, the Taipei flux as being neither one nor the other. The pair run their office out of the building reflects how Oyler and Wu can create a design that is a synthesis American Cement Building—which is clad in a dramatic X-shaped concrete of intensely dense and urban while reflecting some of the more pleasing shell—on Wilshire Boulevard in what is technically Koreatown, but recently aspects of living within a city. Rather than being locked into glass cubes, has become the middle ground between the idyllic, palm tree–lined stretches of each apartment features a balcony that is screened on the exterior by a West Los Angeles and the grittier landscape of downtown. movable metal mesh screen. The building feels like it comprises constantly “I find the residential parts of downtown really interesting. It’s not quite shifting volumes—rather than a huge chockablock mass. downtown [in the normal sense], but certainly not suburban,” says Oyler. Last year, Oyler Wu became one of 100 architects from around the “I like that in-between; there is this intensity and activity there.” world invited by Ai Weiwei and Herzog & de Meuron to design a villa in That energy emboldens the two architects, who met while students at Ordos, a remote city in Inner Mongolia. In a way, the building is a perfect Harvard’s Graduate School of Design. Both of them worked in several example of the duo’s talents at making a typically suburban building type— offices in New York—Oyler at Toshiko Mori, while Wu worked for the single-family home—fit into a dense setting where dramatic buildings Gluckman Mayner, among others—before establishing their practice are set close to each other. The house creates a more conscientious relation on the West Coast. This year, the duo won a competition to design a to the landscape by situating most of the structure in the ground, as the new home for the Los Angeles Forum for Architecture and Design. The building’s concrete shell gracefully makes as little of a visual impact on the gallery was envisioned as a constantly shifting space—exhibition room landscape as possible. one day, an event venue the next. For the narrow interior, the architects How does a firm adapt to designing for such disparate places as Los incorporated an ingenious system of metal aluminum racks that pivot Angeles, and Inner Mongolia? “Trying to understand the context downward to hold visual material, and can neatly be put away into the [of Ordos] was difficult,” says Oyler. “We asked ourselves, ‘How do we ceiling so the space is a true forum. When collected, the system resembles design to fit a local culture?’ It’s hard to understand until we realized a chaotic tangle of metal wires. that we’re designing for international culture. That has been the major “Pendulum Place is a highly intelligent device that operates at many difference.” —ANDREW YANG levels,” says Mohamed Sharif, the president of the Los Angeles Forum. “Even when inactive, the structure holds its own as a strange Below: Ordos autonomous framework.” in Inner Mongolia. The project, which was designed and built in a matter of three Right: Taipei months and opened in September, is a small one, considering the Tower in Taiwan. architects are also working on an entire building in Taiwan. Their

58 WWDscoop

s city scenes c o o p

BRUSSELS The Grand Place The once drab Belgian capital blossoms into SPROUTS an international contender. By Miles Socha aris has the Eiffel Tower; London, Big Ben; Milan, the striking industrialist building from the Thirties, and now a stream of well-known Duomo. And Brussels? Manneken Pis, a small, incontinent international galleries and artists is arriving. Residents and newcomers alike are bronze fountain sculpture tucked in a quiet lane. attracted to the low rents, affordable living—where else in Western can It is not meant as a slight. In fact, the diminutive you get change for a 2 euro coin when you order a beer in a trendy cafe?—and a figure is an apt symbol for the capital of Belgium and deep history of art collecting. It also doesn’t hurt that most of Western Europe— the European Union, for it is not an obvious or showy including Paris, London and Cologne, Germany—is a quick train ride away. place. But Brussels is certainly quirky, charming and “The most attractive part about Brussels is the quality of life due to the amount international—a magnet for creative types and adventurous of green forest that surrounds the entire city,” notes designer Stephen Fairchild, tourists who value eclecticism. who commutes to Amsterdam as creative director of Mexx, but has called Brussels Contrasts abound, from the staggering Baroque architecture home for the last eight years. “The quality of real estate for value is extraordinary. of The Grand Place to the looks-like-it-just-landed-from-Mars Atomium, The outsides of buildings are not attractive, but the insides are spectacular. Once a kitsch structure resembling an iron molecule built for the 1958 you get to know the ins and outs of Brussels, it’s a very hip city.” World’s Fair that glints from the outskirts. There’s a warren of charming Fairchild also lauds the international mix in Brussels, where it is estimated cobblestone streets to explore in the town center, and dense, verdant parkland that up to a quarter of the one million inhabitants are foreigners. While French ringing the suburbs. is the official language, a visitor is just as likely to hear Dutch, English or Arabic “It’s a dramatic city in terms of urbanism. You have the best and the worst at in the streets—and perhaps some lively debate about ongoing tensions between the same time,” notes designer Olivier Theyskens, a Brussels native the Flemish and French communities. While the politics are complicated, the who attended the city’s famous fashion school, La Cambre. “When I was a multicultural muddle that is Brussels adds to the city’s dynamism and creative edge. child, it was really trash. Recently, it’s been a little cleaned up.” Belgians have a renowned flair for fashion, and are upping the ante when “It’s quite a dull place when you look at it at first,” concurs fashion designer it comes to home and industrial design, as well. For example, Baden Baden, Jean-Paul Knott, another of the city’s sons, alluding to the often-leaden skies a boutique devoted to kitchens and bathrooms, is a labyrinth of tasty decor and a hodgepodge of sublime and horrible architecture from every era, thanks possibilities, all in subtle tones of gray and brown. And a stroll down Rue Haut to the sprawl of European government buildings. “But it’s quite calm,” he adds. will reveal a wealth of great antique shops…and Easy Tempo for pizza and “People are very nice. Somehow I feel at home.” antipasti when you need a shopping break. To be sure, the city’s multicultural mix, vibrant cultural scene and stylish shops Theyskens laments that he doesn’t get back to Brussels much, but he always and restaurants keep things interesting. Brussels is home to some of Europe’s most makes a point of dining at La Meilleure Jeunesse, a cozy, bordellolike bistro acclaimed contemporary dance and theater productions, along with budding film with its rickety, mismatched furniture, artsy photos and laid-back atmosphere and contemporary art scenes. Last year, the Wiels art center opened its doors in a that also permeates and defines the city.

60 WWDscoop Wiels Contemporary Art Center 354 Avenue Van Volxem; +32.02.347.3033 Baden Baden 80 Rue Haute; +32.02.548.9696 Easy Tempo 146 Rue Haute; +32.02.513.5440 It’s hard to trump the impeccable service and WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK peerless seafood at L’Ecailler du Palais Royal, La Meilleure Jeunesse 58 Rue de l’Aurore; +32.02.640.2394 a chic, old-worldy standby on the Place du Grand Sablon. Be sure and start with a bowl of handmade lobster raviolis resting in a pool of curry-perfumed cream. Canterbury is L’Ecailler du Palais Royal 18 Rue Bodenbroek; another trusted standby of the local elite, with a leafy terrace, an art-stuffed dining room +32.02.512.8751 and a menu of reassuring classics for the luncheon set. Canterbury Brussels is famous for its atmospheric brasseries, and La Quincaillerie, set up in a 2 Avenue de l’Hippodrome; spectacular old hardware store in Art Nouveau style, buzzes every night with guests +32.02.646.8393 who surely break their vow to sample only a handful of frites. Queen, a sprawling La Quincaillerie brasserie in a spectacular 18th-century building that once housed a bank and a post 45 Rue du Page; +32.02.533.9833 office, serves up Belgian cuisine in a funky, high-design setting—complete with wacky Belga Queen unisex restrooms. As for beer—along with mussels, 32 Rue Fossé aux Loups; almost synonymous with Belgium—it’s almost +32.02.217.2187 impossible to find a bad or overpriced draft in Brussels. “IT’S A Walvis Café The Walvis and Belga cafes, with rotating fans on 209 Rue Antoine Dansaert; DR AMATIC +32.02.219.9532 ceilings and young, trendy crowds underneath, are CITY IN Belga Café worth a visit, the latter situated in a ravishing radio 18 Place Eugène Flagey; station building from the Thirties. For a traditional pub TERMS OF +32.02.640.3508 experience, with rows of wooden tables and - URBANISM. A la Mort Subite stained walls, try A la Mort Subite, or Sudden Death, YOU HAVE 7 Rue de la Montagne aux Herbes and see how many Gueuze beers you can manage. Potagères; +32.02.513.1318 THE BEST Stijl Stijl, a landmark 74 Rue Antoine Dansaert; WHERE TO SHOP AND THE shop on trendy Rue WORST AT +32.02.512.0313 Antoine Dansaert, is a mecca for the crème de Martin Margiela la crème of Belgian fashions, with mostly black, THE SAME 114 Rue de Flandre; +32.02.223.7520 quietly alluring ensembles by Dries Van Noten, Ann TIME. ” Own Demeulemeester, Veronique Branquinho and others —OLIVIER 5 Place du Jardin aux Fleurs; hung in artful rows in an industrial setting. The first +32.02.217.9571 European outpost for Martin Margiela and boutiques THEYSKENS Natan 13 such as Own and Natan 13 are all nearby and play up 158 Avenue Louise; fashion’s dark, brooding side. Tucked away in a picturesque square is a men’s outpost +32.02.647.1001 for local designer Christophe Coppens, proffering quirky accessories such as two- Christophe Coppens toned fedoras and a sequined brooch in the guise of a bloody kitchen knife. 2 Rue Leon Lepagestraat; But the city’s fashion can come out sunny-side up, too. The L’Essentiel boutique +32.02.512.7797 on Rue Louise is a perfect example with a riotous decor of vivid colors and retro L’Essentiel PHOTOS BY 66 Avenue Louise; +32.02.513.1891 patterns, and fetching, affordable fashions in the vein of Marni. Bellerose—which DOMINIQUE MAITRE Fairchild describes as a Belgian take on Abercrombie & Fitch—has a dim, hunting Bellerose Clockwise from top left: 5 Chaussée de Charleroi; lodge decor and a selection of cozy sweaters, striped scarves and plaid shirts, which Belgian leather goods +32.02.539.4476 are as reassuringly familiar as they are slyly cool. Brussels has a bounty of boutiques in specialist Delvaux; Privejoke the contemporary vein stocked with lively mixes of local and international brands such tourists gather around Manneken Pis; a display 76-78 Rue Marché aux Charbons; as Privejoke. Most international luxury brands can be found, but the one to check out of chocolates; Hotel +32.02.502.6367 is Delvaux, a Belgian purveyor of sumptuous leather goods that is older than Hermès Amigo; the city at night. Delvaux and almost as expensive. Stump your friends with a discreet Seventies vintage shoulder 27 Boulevard de Waterloo; bag in gunmetal gray leather, or something with the signature “D” logo. +32.02.513.0502 And when you’ve had your fill of shopping, be sure to save room for dessert. Chocolates are a must, and Pierre Pierre Marcolini Marcolini, whose boutique resembles a couture salon, is the go-to for delectable ganaches wrapped in chic, all-black 75 Avenue Louise; +32.02.538.4224 packaging. For spectacular cookies and ice cream, make a beeline for Dandoy—the shop is redolent of butter and spices. Dandoy 31 Rue au Beurre; +32.02.511.0326 Steps away from The Grand Place, the Hotel Amigo offers classic luxury, with René Magritte Hotel Amigo WHERE TO STAY images in all the rooms and Tintin cartoons and figurines in each bathroom. Wake up hungry, 1-3 Rue de l’Amigo; +32.02.547.4747 as the copious breakfast buffet is accompanied by your choice of egg dishes, along with pancakes and waffles as a finale. The Domenican The Domenican, tucked behind the opera house, recently opened and is touted as the first design hotel in Brussels—albeit 9 Rue Leopold; +32.02.203.0808 one with a 15th-century flair. The building was formerly an abbey (which explains the piped-in chanting in the elevators, the dim lighting and cloisters incorporated into the design). Later it was home to the French painter Jacques-Louis David.

WWDscoop61 s city scenes c o o p

Centennial Vineyards in Bowral.

The Centennial Vineyards winery and entertainment venue.

Model agent Kathy Ward and kids at Fox Hill Farm in Kangaloon.

Bluebell Wood in the Milton Park garden. The Milton Park main house in Bowral. AUS SI EODYSSEY The fashion and chic set unwind in New South Wales Southern Highlands. By Patty Huntington

ocated 2,133 feet above sea level Luhrmann’s upcoming epic, Australia, due for release on and just over an hour’s drive from November 13. But with its rolling hills, landscaped English Sydney, the New South Wales gardens and gracious Georgian mansion—the latter leased in Southern Highlands has been a the 1880s to NSW governor Lord Augustus Loftus—Bunya pastoral playground for Sydney’s elite for Hill epitomizes the complete Southern Highlands fantasy. more than 140 years. Nestled on a tabletop plateau of the Great Dividing Range Now it’s “Kurban” country. equidistant between Sydney and Canberra, the Southern In July, and Highlands is etched with spectacular gorges and valleys and husband Keith Urban purchased flanked by nine state forests and national parks. The region the Sutton Forest cattle farm Bunya Hill sight unseen for has a population of only 42,000 and comprises four main $6.5 million, upping the area’s celebrity ante. towns: Bowral, Mittagong, Moss Vale and Bundanoon. Set on 120 acres of lush, pasture-improved land, Bunya Dotted around these townships are approximately 20 sleepy Hill isn’t quite Faraway Downs—the fictitious Australian smaller villages that include Sutton Forest, whose “town cattle farm the size of Belgium that is inherited by English center” consists of a pub, a church and two shops. There’s

aristocrat Lady Sarah Ashley, played by Kidman in Baz also the quaint Berrima, Australia’s only preserved Georgian WINERY, MAIN HOUSE, CENTENNIAL VINEYARDS BLUEBELL, WARD, BOWRAL CENTENNIAL BOWRAL GARDEN PHOTOS BY SONNY VANDEVELDE; OF CENTENNIAL VINEYARDS BY GUY ADAMSON, COURTESY VINYARDS The Milton Park garden in Bowral.

62 WWDscoop colonial town, which was established in 1831, 14 years after European settlers first A large new Highlands fashion contingent includes designers Leona Edmiston, set up camp nearby in the now-defunct settlement of Bong Bong. Lisa Ho and Rebecca Davies; retail developer Theo Onisforou; model-turned– Large tracts of land were granted to explorers/settlers Charles Throsby and the designer/television personality Maggie Tabberer; model agents Kathy Ward and NSW colony’s surveyor general John Oxley, who established important Georgian Peter Chadwick, and Australia’s premier multibrand fashion retailer Belinda Seper— residences Throsby Park in 1834 and Wingecarribee House in 1857. who operates her 12-unit chain from her Sydney office and her home in Burradoo. With its four distinct seasons and crisp temperatures, which can be up to “It’s partially a bedroom suburb of Sydney now—people sleep up there but work 10 degrees Celsius cooler than Sydney’s, the area quickly proved a hill station in the city,” says John Large, who also splits his week between town and country. for Sydney’s well-heeled English settlers—notably following the arrival of the In Large’s case, that’s one home in the exclusive Sydney Harbour–front suburb railway in 1867. The NSW governor’s 1882 acquisition of the Sutton Forest of Point Piper and 310 acres in Bowral that he has developed into the Highlands’ property Prospect, renamed Hillview, as a permanent country retreat made the best-known winery and entertainment venue: Centennial Vineyards (whose next area more fashionable still. international act, on December 14, is Alicia Keys). Some of Sydney’s most prominent families established retreats in the region With 250 acres of grapes under plantation across 60-plus vineyards, viticulture with English-style gardens, such as the Hordern retail dynasty, which built is the Highlands’ latest buzz industry—and it has sprung up in less than a decade. Retford Park (1887) and Milton Park (1910). Set on 300 acres with 10 award- “I think Australia is starting to come to appreciate the delicacy of wines that winning gardens, Milton Park since has been transformed into a luxury country are grown in a cool climate,” said Large, whose 17 award-winning products resort and one of the Highlands’ most iconic properties. include sparkling wines, Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. “They have had their Although the region never really went out of style, its charm was somewhat gut-full of Chardonnay from the hot areas that are big and full and oily and rich,

Inside the Milton An aerial view of the resort at Milton Park. Park garden. The restaurant at Centennial Vineyards.

“[THE HIGHLANDS IS] PARTIALLY A BEDROOM SUBURB OF SYDNEY NOW—PEOPLE SLEEP UP THERE BUT WORK IN THE CITY. ”

eclipsed by the lure of beach property from the Sixties through the Eighties. and now they want something more delicate.” Over the past 15 years, however, the Highlands has been rediscovered in earnest From Monday to Friday, Chic Management director Ward oversees her Sydney by new generations of Sydney-ites—and others much further afield—who are agency’s growing roster of some of Australia’s hottest new modeling names such setting up homes or weekenders. They include author Bryce Courtenay, actor Reg as , Catherine McNeil, Kershaw, Alexandra Agoston, Livermore, artist John Olsen, television mogul Reg Grundy, Midnight Oil front Stephanie Carta and fledglings Myf Shepherd and Sarah Stephens. But most man–turned–federal environment minister Peter Garrett, rocker Jimmy Barnes, Friday afternoons see Ward, a keen dressage rider, in a four-wheel drive loaded up British actress Miriam Margolyes and veteran photographer Sam Haskins. Now with her two children, their friends and three of Ward’s eight horses—all en route 82, Haskins, the South African–born author of Five Girls and Cowboy Kate & to the family’s picturesque 35-acre Kangaloon property, Fox Hill Farm. Other Stories, among other books, relocated to Bowral in 2002 after three decades “There are lots of kids and lots of ponies—and lots of models. If any [out-of- in London. His recent fashion clients include French Vogue, Allure and Harper’s town] models are staying with me, part of the deal is they have to come down Bazaar Australia and he shot Kidman for the latter’s January/February 2004 cover. to the farm with me,” says Ward, whose property boasts native eucalyptus, “Everything which a big horrible city is not, Bowral is,” says the subtropical rainforest and spectacular views over the Robertson Valley. photographer. “It’s quiet, there’s lots of space, beautiful fresh air. The climate on “I love the fact that it has a completely different climate,” she adds of the region. the whole is very good. And I can get to Sydney in a hurry if I have to. I moan “It’s remote but close to the city, so it makes it very accessible. And you get space

MILTON PARK GARDEN, CENTENNIAL VINYARDS GARDEN, CENTENNIAL VINYARDS PARK MILTON PHOTOS BY SONNY VANDEVELDE RESTAURANT about it if I have to go.” and you get quietness and you get solitude. It’s a beautiful part of the world.”

WWDscoop63 city scenes s

c Monte Carlo’s Port Hercule harbor and Palace. o o p

MO‘ What recession? The rich and powerful MONEY keep playing in Monaco. By Ellen Groves t’s cocktail hour in Monte Carlo and British jeweler Graff has transformed themselves in front of some of the world’s largest superyachts, which were this the Hôtel de Paris’ marbled Salle Empire into a garden of multicolored season dwarfed by the Lady Moura, whose 344-foot, multiple-decked glory makes diamonds, glinting among palm trees swathed in green light. The centerpiece neighboring vessels look like tenders in comparison. of the soiree is The Lesotho Promise, a necklace featuring 26 white D-flawless Monaco’s other draw, as well as sunshine, is its history. Those possessing stones, the most valuable on the grading system, carved from the 15th largest power and glamour have flocked here for more than 125 years, when visitors diamond ever plucked from the earth. included the of Wales, the future Edward VII and Prince Napoleon. During Graff, which throws a similarly lavish party every year during Monaco’s the Belle Epoque, Picasso, Matisse and Braque created set designs for director high social season in July and August, knows its guests—whose superyachts ’s Ballet Russes at the Opera House and Gustave Eiffel created the dominate the Port Hercule and whose Bentleys gleam outside palatial hotels— spectacular glass roof in the Hotel Hermitage. aren’t among the easily bedazzled. “If someone has made an incredible fortune, In the 20th century, Hollywood came to town, thanks to the late Prince they come to Monaco and they expect this sort of show,” says François Graff, the Rainier’s romancing of Kelly in the Fifties. When they married at the jewelry company’s managing director and son of billionaire founder Laurence Graff. Cathedral of St. Nicholas in 1956, Cary Grant, Ava Gardner, David Niven and Neighboring the Hôtel de Paris stands Les Casinos de Monte-Carlo, a Aristotle Onassis were in the crowd looking on. “Monte Carlo’s got a mystery majestic building that marked the creation of the Monte Carlo district back in from way back in the Twenties and Thirties. It’s magical,” says Shirley Bassey, the the 19th century and, along with four other casinos, has defined the principality’s British-born singer and Monaco resident whose hits “Diamonds Are Forever” and international image ever since. Today, so the advertisements tantalizingly promise, “Hey Big Spender” made her a fitting Graff guest. “In Monte Carlo, someone hits the jackpot every seven minutes.” “Whoever’s got the most money at any moment comes to Monaco,” says However, it’s tourism, not gambling, that brings in the lion’s share of wealth Lavinia Samuel, a British actress who’s lived in the principality for 27 years. “It to this resort, where gross domestic product per capita neared 50,000 euros, keeps the bling going, I suppose.” or about $75,000, in 2006. Many of Monaco’s residents, who hail from 125 The Russians, for one, like Monaco very much, says Victoria Borisevich, countries, descend here each summer to clock up the days necessary to qualify for who, with her banker husband, escapes “rainy Moscow” for the blue skies of the tax breaks. Add to that some 350,000 hotel guests who come for entertainment— Mediterranean every summer. “Everyone does the same thing in Monte Carlo,” be it international sporting spectaculars like the Grand Prix and the Monaco she explains. “You start at the Monte Carlo Bay Hotel for a cocktail, then go

Yacht Show or simply the yearlong display of unbridled opulence. Tourists snap to a good restaurant like the [Michelin-starred] Louis XV, then it’s Jimmy’Z, as PHOTOS BY FRANCK MURA HOTEL DE PARIS GRAFF, HARBOR, BASSEY,

64 WWDscoop usual. In the day we’ll go for a sail.” bodyguards,” says Carmen Chesneau, a Cannes resident With Moscow just a four-hour flight away, a pied-à-terre bedecked in Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry custom-made for her in on the Riviera is a logical step for affluent Russians, says the house’s Place Vendôme atelier. Christian Moore, international director for the luxury real “It’s the only place in the world you are secure,” agrees estate firm John Taylor, which counts Monaco as its biggest the Baroness Cécile de Massy, who is host of the Monaco brand hub. And, while the credit crunch continues elsewhere, here, real of Ladies Who Lunch and whose husband is the son of Princess estate prices have doubled in the past year, with a square foot now Antoinette, the elder sister of the late Prince Rainier III. fetching on average the princely sum of 4,300 euros, or $6,222. For the royal family, that security includes privacy from prying Though a boon for business, it’s a situation even Moore lenses. Princess Caroline, for one, has fought numerous court feels can’t continue. “We hope that it reaches a point where battles in a bid to prevent the paparazzi photographing her common sense kicks in,” he says. “Look at what people outside of official duties. And, while the love life of her younger are willing to spend on a painting. A few years ago, it was, sister, Princess Stephanie, has long been fodder for French say, 20 million pounds. Now it’s 150 million pounds. celebrity magazines, attention is now shifting to the next Who’s determining that?” he asks, then goes on to explain generation. As they swing from London art galleries to Paris the influx of rich Russians: “In Monaco, a small group of fashion shows to New York society gatherings, Princess Caroline’s individuals dictate the going price for anything.” offspring—Charlotte, Andrea and Pierre Casiraghi—have come One of John Taylor’s hot properties is a 3,300-square-foot to epitomize a new glamorous European jet set. Monaco’s strict duplex in the Golden Square with views of the harbor, casino and privacy laws, which require authorization for photographers, are gardens, selling for a cool 25 million euros, or $36.2 million. strictly enforced. A visitor spotted with a professional camera will Others are here to make investments of a different kind. While be stopped by police, and those unable to produce a permit will be several luxury stores bemoaned weaker apparel sales this past From top: Monaco resident taken in for questioning. It’s simply good for business. summer, business has been brisk for high-end accessories. Graff’s Shirley Bassey; “ was here for Bono’s 48th birthday for five hours and Laurence Graff. Monte Carlo boutique, located in the Hôtel de Paris, is one of its there wasn’t one flashbulb in his eyes,” says a proud Sammy Sass, the best performing, according to Henri Barguirdjian, chief executive 29-year-old second-generation manager of the hip hangout Sass bar. officer and president of Graff USA, who says diamonds are viewed as a hedge against At Jimmy’Z nightclub, where a bottle of water costs a whopping 30 euros, or inflation. “We’re dealing with a clientele that manipulates so much wealth and $44, security will confiscate any cameras they spy. “We had Leonardo DiCaprio knows it’s important to have a certain percentage of that wealth in jewelry.” last night and Kid Rock is here tonight. They don’t have to worry,” declares During what it hailed as its most successful auction of sports cars held to manager Cyrille Regottaz. date, the British house Bonhams sold off a 1932 Bugatti for more than Hosting Chanel’s pre-fall collection here in 2006, Karl Lagerfeld summed up 2 million euros, or $2.9 million, to a private European collector this year. the secret of Monte Carlo’s success: “What I like in Monte Carlo is that I feel liked, But the rarest luxury Monte Carlo offers is a low crime rate. Though I feel wanted. But I can walk on the street with nobody grabbing.” conspiracy theories rumble on about the murder of billionaire banker Edmond Facing ever tougher competition from resorts such as Dubai’s Palm Islands, Safra in a fire in 1999, security is one of Monaco’s best selling points. With however, Monaco is out to hold on to its title as the preferred playground of the more than 70 closed-circuit cameras around the principality, plus a 500-strong rich by offering attractions other than the casinos, nightclubs and Grand Prix police force for a population of only 32,000, keys are left in Ferraris while racetrack that helped it win that accolade. Chanel handbags sit unattended in restaurants. “I can go out without my Costing billions, Prince Albert’s plans for the future of his island include a new 10- to 12-hectare district to be built to strict environmental standards in the Bay of Monaco with a “WHOEVER’S GOT THE MOST MONEY AT flagship museum, an upmarket shopping mall, yachting ANY MOMENT COMES TO MONACO.” quays and residences for 3,000. The prince is studying five proposals from different developers, including the Monte Carlo Sea Land firm, which collaborates with Hôtel de Paris architects such as Daniel Libeskind; the Monte Carlo Development Co., which has enlisted firms including Norman Foster & Partners, and Fonciere Maritime, which works with the architect Frank Gehry, among others. He likely will reveal his choice by next year, with work slated to begin in late 2009 and to be completed by 2014. On the music scene, the Monte Carlo Jazz Festival launched in 2006, while Moods, a live music bar, opened this year. And next year, the renowned Monaco Dance Forum will collaborate with the centenary of the Ballet Russes. Monaco is, it seems, undergoing a renaissance of sorts. “There are a million different events going on,” says Mary Coles, a local art exhibition organizer, pointing to the recently opened Opera Gallery. “It The Lesotho Promise offers the latest up-to-date, Modernist and Renaissance art,” she says. “Even Palm Beach hasn’t got that.”

WWDscoop65 s city scenes c o o LOCALHERO Iori & Co. treats travelers to a real slice of life in Japan. p

Inside one of the Iori & Co.–renovated machiya. Below: The garden entrance to a town house.

radition is revered in Japan, but it has taken an American to the front portion. Now, Marukyu-Koyamaen Co. Ltd., one of Kyoto’s most recognize the modern potential of some of the island nation’s famous green tea producers, has converted that space into a cafe that serves ancient buildings. up steaming cups of green tea, or matcha, as well as green tea roll cake, ice Over the past four years, Iori & Co. has been renovating cream and other delicacies. machiya, or old wooden town houses, into stunning rental Iori spent four months restoring and renovating the back annex—the properties in the heart of historic Kyoto. Its most recent effort dates painter’s former abode—into an airy four-room space that is available back to the Meiji era and has the ink calligraphy on one of the pine for rent. “Honestly, it looked like it was going to fall down,” says Bodhi ceiling beams to prove it. Fishman, a consultant with Iori. “The whole far side of the house was Alex Kerr, a Maryland-born scholar and author who has lived in Asia for sagging and we had to jack it up.” more than three decades, got his start in the renovation business in 1973 A stone walkway winds past a small, carefully manicured garden to the when he bought a 200-year-old farmhouse in Shikoku in the western part house’s entrance. A room with tatami mat flooring, traditionally used for of Japan. Today, he is chairman of Iori, which has the tea ceremony, greets visitors. Next door, an elegantly spare living room restored nine houses around Kyoto and runs Asian with floor cushions and a low table leads to one of the more unique and art and cultural programs. unexpected corners of the house—a Japanese cypress bathtub overlooking “The big challenge—and this is our specialty a private sliver of green garden, replete with its own miniature shrine. and it’s what interests me in these houses—is how Flattened bamboo covers the walls of the stairwell leading up to the second to make them modern. By that I mean, how can floor. The main room has an Asian loft feel. Reed mats, usually found on modern people live in them comfortably?” says Kerr. the floor in Japan, are used to construct the ceiling, filling in the spaces The 56-year-old eschews the two pervading between the rich brown pine beams. Renting out one of the machiya gives schools of Japanese restoration. “One is basically visitors insight into daily life in Japan. Most travelers are eager to experience you restore it to perfection, to its original everyday Japanese life and stay in traditional inns, or ryokan, replete with condition, and it becomes a museum and dies,” house matrons who employ regimented wake-up calls and enter rooms he says. “Or, you totally distort it and destroy willy-nilly to brew tea and fluff pillows. But not all travelers are fans of what was of value in it by tricking it out with concrete and plastic and such intrusions. “The thing about our houses is that, because it’s your own fluorescent light fittings.” house, you can lay your futon wherever you like and your children can run Typically, machiya were merchants’ homes with a store in the front and a around and scream and yell,” Kerr says. “Because it’s a house, you’re living residence behind. The part of the building that faces the street was the basis in a neighborhood. You’re not just a tourist that checks in—you actually on which taxes were calculated, so the properties tend to be long and narrow. live there.” —AMANDA KAISER Iori’s most recent renovation, a house called Sanbo Nishinotoin, fell into disrepair when its former inhabitant, a painter, died several years ago. Until For more information and prices, go to kyoto-machiya.com. For reservations,

recently, his family, who still owns the property, ran a textile business out of call +81.07.5352.0211. Prices vary on the number of occupants in the house. PHOTOS BY YUKIE KASUGA

66 WWDscoop THELANDBEFOR ETIME Brazil’s Pousada Teto do Cafundo encourages travelers to take their eyes off the clock.

estled in the verdant hills of São Paulo between the living room with high-tech gadgets and a wine bar. historic villages of São Francisco Xavier and Montero The chalets and dining room are decorated with artifacts from all Lobato, the four eucalyptus wood chalets of Pousada over the country. Since they began planning Pousada in 2001, Nivoloni Teto do Cafundo provide an idyllic retreat for the and Gonsalvis have been collecting pieces on their travels. To add to stressed-out city set and for travelers seeking a taste of the individual feel of each space, the owners commissioned emerging Brazil that differs from contemporary Brazilian artists to create sandy beaches and canvasses that now take pride of place in the samba bars. communal areas and the rooms. Opened in February by Guests are masters of their own time—no former agronomists Renato Nivoloni check-in or checkout times, and no set and his wife, Tatiana Gonsalvis, Pousada mealtimes. Regardless of the clock, in fact, offers individually tailored hospitality, with Nivoloni will cook up any dish on the menu locally sourced gourmet food, water from the to satisfy any hunger pangs. nearby waterfalls and uninterrupted views of Nivoloni’s menu consists of a mix of the sprawling hills. “In a busy life, one ends Brazilian and European cuisine. Recipes up trampling important moments. Here you stem from traditional European dishes, have time for time,” Nivoloni says. complemented by thoroughly Brazilian Opening a pousada (Portuguese for a ingredients. A must on the menu is an country or seaside family-run establishment) was the couple’s dream organic local beef filet, served with a handpicked mixed mushroom- since they met. They wanted to live amid nature and share their and–red wine sauce. passions with guests as well as friends and family. Their work ethic and The pair is planning to enlarge Pousada by adding another chalet, a commitment to their first project of this kind (it took them six years to swimming pool and a spa, to be completed by June—all of which will build Pousada to their specifications) are fueled by their desire to help only add to the timeless atmosphere. “Our main pleasure is to receive people unwind. Each 918-square-foot chalet with terrace boasts three people and get joy from their relaxation,” Nivoloni adds. distinct areas—a master bedroom, a Jacuzzi-equipped bathroom and a —VALENTINA ZANNONI

An exterior view of a wood chalet at Pousada Teto do Cafundo. Above: Inside, each chalet is decorated with artifacts from all over the country. PHOTOS COURTESY OF TETODOCAFUNDO.COM.BR PHOTOS COURTESY

WWDscoop67 s plats du jour c o o p THEYAREEATING

Pumpkins are ripe for the picking—and not just for carving festive jack-o’-lanterns. FRESH PUMPKIN Chefs across the country have no shortage of recipes that utilize the fall WHOOPEE PIES vegetable. WWDScoop presents the best of the crop. Chef Peter Davis of Henrietta’s Table in Boston searches out ORANGE CRUSH PUMPKIN PIZZA sugar pumpkins for his Whoopee Unconventional pizza toppings might raise eyebrows, but unorthodox pizza sauce is completely Pies and rounds up unusual uncharted territory. Frank Bonanno, chef and owner of Denver’s Osteria Marco, cooks up an Orange varietals such as cheese and red Crush Pizza featuring sauce made from pumpkins instead of tomatoes. “It’s a fun riff on the classic curry for his heirloom pumpkin Neapolitan pizza,” explains the chef, who tops his creation with broccoli rabe and ricotta. soup. Davis’ first book, Fresh & Honest, hits stores in November. Serves 4 Yields 6 pies 1 medium baking pumpkin 6 tbs extra virgin olive oil 3/4 cup sugar Sea salt and pepper to taste 1/4 cup oil 4 fresh pitas 2 eggs 1 bunch broccoli rabe, blanched 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tbs chili flakes 3/4 tsp baking soda 8 sage leaves, julienned or chopped 1/4 tsp salt 1 cup ricotta salata, crumbled 1/4 tsp cinnamon 1/4 tsp nutmeg Heat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Halve pumpkin and drizzle each side with 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/8 tsp baking powder and a light dusting of salt and pepper. Set on cookie sheet, flesh side down. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes 1/3 cup fresh pumpkin puree (depending on the size of the pumpkin) and remove when tender to the touch. Once it has cooled, 1/2 pint heavy cream scoop out flesh and puree until smooth. 1/2 tbs confectioners’ sugar Spoon about 1/2 cup of puree on the pita and spread until covered (about 1/8 inch thick). 1/4 tsp cinnamon, freshly grated Divide broccoli rabe among the four pizzas; sprinkle with chili flakes to taste. Add sage to each and if possible drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil on top. Salt and pepper to taste. On a cookie sheet, bake at 500 degrees Fahrenheit for eight minutes. Garnish with ricotta and serve. Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Mix sugar and oil together in a medium-size bowl and add eggs. SUGAR PIE PUMPKIN SOUP Salt and pepper to taste Sift flour, baking soda, “I added little bits of carrots to enhance the salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and sweetness,” says Jonnatan Leiva, executive chef For garnish: baking powder together into of Jack Falstaff in San Francisco, while whisking Extra virgin olive oil a medium-sized bowl. Add to a saucepan of sugar pie pumpkin. Leiva says the Toasted almonds sugar-and-eggs mixture. Add intense flavor of the sugar pie variety calls out for Chives pumpkin puree. the soup to be paired with lamb roast “or a nice Place in refrigerator to set, hardy oxtail fettuccine.” He also suggests adding In a stainless steel pot, melt the butter over about one hour. Use a medium- a pinch of saffron, a culinary detail that he picked a medium flame. Add onion, cinnamon and size ice cream scooper to create up from the Spanish cooks in his family. chopped pumpkin. Let the vegetables sweat for 12 balls approximately twice the about five minutes. Next add the white wine and size of a marble, and use your Serves 8 reduce the heat to low. Let the wine reduce to hands to give a rounder shape. about half, then add the vegetable stock. Let the Place on sheet pan and bake 3 tbs butter pot simmer for about 20 minutes or until the for about 12 minutes, or until a 1 whole yellow onion, chopped carrots are fully cooked. toothpick comes out clean. 1 tbs cinnamon Let the soup cool, then transfer to a blender Whip cream into stiff peaks, 3 cups peeled and chopped and add the fresh carrot juice. adding sugar and cinnamon sugar pie pumpkin Blend the soup until it has a while whipping. 2 cups white wine smooth consistency. Season Add a medium-size dollop 6 cups vegetable stock or with salt and a dash of pepper. of the cream between two chicken stock Garnish with extra virgin olive pumpkin cakes to create the

3 cups fresh carrot juice oil, toasted almonds and chives. sandwich. Serve. SOUP BY DREW ALTIZER PIZZA PHOTO BY KEITH ROBERTS;

68 WWDscoop PUMPKIN EMPANADAS “Pumpkin empanadas may sound like an unusual combination,” says Clark , who, along with Mark Gaier, co-owns the organic eatery Arrows in Ogunquit, Maine. “But they’re always a huge hit.” In fact, the toques are such proponents of the vegetable that they will host a pumpkin festival dinner this season, complete with its very own patch, on the premises of their other BRIGHT BUDS Starting in September, lantern-shaped restaurant, Summer Winter, in Burlington, Mass. Sandersonia lilies are imported to the from New Zealand. While Yields 32 small empanadas, or 6 servings they’re free of fragrance, they’re rich in color, ranging from bright yellow to deep For the dough: orange. Florist Jonathan Rachman of San 2 cups all-purpose flour Francisco’s Fleur’t arranges the flower 1 tsp kosher salt with similarly colored circus roses and delicate malvas. —ALEX ILYASHOV 1/2 tsp sugar 12 tbs (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small squares 2 large egg yolks 2 to 3 tbs ice water

Combine the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. INSEASON Pulse to combine. Add the butter, and pulse a few times to cut the butter into the flour. Add the egg yolk and combine. HAUTE CHOCOLATE Continue to pulse while slowly adding Forget Swiss Miss. The latest in cocoa is water until the ingredients start to gather. drinking chocolate, a thick concoction of the Transfer the dough onto a floured solid confection melted with milk or cream. work surface and gently knead to bring Vendors including MarieBelle in New York together. Roll the dough into a cylinder and Bittersweet in San Francisco serve it about 1 inch in diameter. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate until hot or cold and add spices such as chipotle, which harken back to the rich beverage’s firm, about an hour, or for up to one day. Mayan and Aztec roots. —MINA WILLIAMS

For the filling: 1 small pumpkin or other winter squash, about 3 lbs 2 tbs olive oil Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 4 medium shallots, peeled and finely chopped OUT OF HAND 1 tsp finely chopped thyme leaves Buddha’s Hand citron is all rind and no flesh. The sweet zest of the fruit is used mostly to flavor liqueurs and vodkas, but in Chinese and Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop Japanese households, it’s also used as a natural out the seeds. Drizzle flesh with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkle with salt and air freshener. Originally from India, the Buddha’s pepper. Place it skin side up on a cookie sheet and roast until the flesh is very soft, Hand also grows in California, where its peak about 30 minutes. Scoop out the flesh and puree in a food processor fitted with season lasts from late October until early April. the metal blade, or a blender, until smooth. Measure 2 cups puree into a bowl. —AMANDA FITZSIMONS Warm the remaining olive oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring until translucent, about four minutes. Scrape into the pumpkin puree, add the thyme and season with salt and pepper if needed. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the puree and refrigerate until cool.

To assemble and cook the empanadas: PEACHY KEEN 1 large egg, lightly beaten Intensely yellow with red striations, late-harvest Leonforte peaches are so sweet they taste as On a floured work surface, cut the dough cylinder into 1-inch sections. Using if they’ve been candied. The extraordinary a rolling pin, roll each section into a round about 1/8-inch thick and 3 inches flavor comes from skilled Sicilian workers, in diameter. who individually wrap each tiny, green peach in a protective wax paper bag during June, Place 1 tablespoon pumpkin puree in the center of each round. Brush the eliminating the need for pesticides and edges with egg, then fold the circles in half, pressing out any air. Carefully crimp allowing the fruit to mature on the tree longer the edges together with the back of a fork. than usual. The harvest is September through Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper and arrange the empanadas half an November, but for now, unfortunately, the fruit

EMPANADAS PHOTO BY DANIELLE JOHNSON; SANDERSONIA BY RYAN MCVAY/GETTY IMAGES; IMAGES; MCVAY/GETTY PHOTO BY DANIELLE JOHNSON; SANDERSONIA RYAN EMPANADAS OF SLOWFOOD HAND BY ENVISION/CORBIS; PEACHES COURTESY BUDDHA’S inch apart on the sheets. Bake until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve warm. is only found in Sicily. —RACHEL MASCETTA

WWDscoop69 s plats du jour c o o REALITYBITES p A new tome serves up a behind-the-scenes look at Chef Eric Ripert’s famed kitchen at Le Bernardin.

ric Ripert’s cookbooks are typically sophisticated, no pointing in the dining room…. glossy and somewhat intimidating—not unlike E.R.: Actually I didn’t know they existed. I went to the guys and was like, the restaurant he runs, the critically esteemed Le “Did we make them up?” They were like, “No, I follow all of them.” Bernardin in New York. But with his latest tome, On the Line, Ripert lifts the curtain to reveal how perfection is WWDScoop: The lease on Le Bernardin’s location is up in achieved. It’s Bernardin behind the scenes: a reality show 2011. Do you know what’s next? in 10-point type instead of eight-millimeter. E.R.: Right now I’m really not sure if Le Bernardin is going to go for “We share with the reader how we motivate the 30 more years, or if we’re going to be like, well, that was it, and this is staff,” Ripert says. “I don’t want to ignore what the end of the show. We have to decide as a team. they do. Those guys deserve recognition.” WWDScoop: Do you have any aspirations for Writer Christine Muhlke was given the commercial side of the business? full access to Ripert and his staff of 140 to E.R.: It’s tempting, obviously, to stay home, document how a four-star restaurant operates. watch TV and sell pots at Macy’s. But if I “I didn’t want a romantic book where was doing something, it would be something everything’s perfect, we all love each other,” meaningful to me, and bringing something says Ripert. “I never told the staff what to say, different to the consumer. I don’t know if you or what not to say. But then I read some of the have seen our blog, aveceric.com. We basically interviews and it was like, f--k you, f--k them, in three minutes teach you how to use a f--k that. We erased the f--ks.” toaster oven to cook anything. Here, Ripert discusses why he brought his staff into the spotlight and his newfound WWDScoop: With videos? hobby: blogging. —EMILY HOLT E.R: I think anyone can cook fish at home. You’re going to be amazed by the results. It’s WWDScoop: How often are you actually essentially one, two, three. No blender, no working in the restaurant? knowledge, just do it. Eric Ripert: I’m here five days a week, but I take my four weeks’ vacation. WWDScoop: What about your signature “egg” dessert [chocolate pots de crème with WWDScoop: So many of your peers are criticized for spending their time caramel foam, maple syrup and sea salt served in an egg shell]. Do you away from the kitchen. think home cooks will attempt that? E.R: I’m not judgmental of what they do, or don’t do. I’m used to the E.R.: The recipes are there, and they represent what we do. I’m sure kitchen. It is obvious that I’m not peeling every carrot; I’m not cooking some people will try it, and I’m sure some people will be like, “I’ll just every morsel of fish on your plate. It’s a very naïve idea to think that go to Le Bernardin.” the chef is cooking everything, and, on top of it, is irreplaceable. That would mean that basically he is the only genius, and there are idiots all around him, which doesn’t make sense. THIRTEEN OF CO-FOUNDER MAGUY LE COZE’S 129 ‘CARDINAL SINS’ WWDScoop: You must consider your current staff pretty remarkable to immortalize them like this. 8. Unevenly folded napkins. E.R.: Those guys, the chefs and executive chef, executive sous chefs, they 13. Salt and pepper shakers that are half-empty. have 15, 16 years with us. The associate chef has been here 20 years—it’s 20. Burned-out lightbulbs. longer than I’ve been here. We have a team that is passionate and 21. Clattering dishes. Be quiet! motivated, qualified, obviously, and I just thought it was the right time. 36. Thumbs on the plate during service. 67. Placing a cocktail napkin askew or upside down. WWDScoop: Since this is not a traditional cookbook, though there are a 81. Vanishing waiters. few recipes, how do you see it being used? 83. Watching while the guest completes the credit card slip. E.R.: It’s a documentary, so you can look at some information and be 93. Walking past items dropped on the floor!!!!!!!!!!! like, wow, they bought 600 pounds of lobster in one day. Or you can 99. Obvious hangovers. read an essay on the maître’d, or the rules that [co-founder] Maguy [Le 107. Speaking in incomplete sentences. Coze] has for the dining room…. 122. Popping a Champagne cork. 129. To be continued.... WWDScoop: Yeah, those are pretty intense. No rattling pocket change,

70 WWDscoop EASYASPIE Sophie Dudemaine translates Alain Ducasse.

Who hasn’t dreamed of whipping up an unforgettable blanche to democratize his cuisine. meal worthy of a top chef with minimal effort? The 43-year-old chef admits she had to adapt Thanks to Sophie Dudemaine, dishes such as some of the recipes for the American market. For garlic-roasted Cornish hens with cherry sauce and example, readers won’t find any foie gras or giblet caramelized orange tartlets become child’s play. recipes, and rabbit meat is replaced by herbed duck The granddaughter and daughter of restaurant for ravioli. And if dishes don’t quite work out or owners, the blonde and energetic French chef was instructions are confusing, neophyte chefs can always born in a cooking pot, at least figuratively, and it give Dudemaine a ring: She includes her phone was always obvious to her that she would follow in number in all her books. her family’s footsteps. Dudemaine, who has a TV show project in the Best known for her bestseller Sophie’s Cakes, U.S., also is working on her next books: Sophie’s Soups Dudemaine also runs a country inn in Normandy, is scheduled to come out in France in October, and where she gives cooking classes. The author’s latest Sophie’s Sweet and Savory Loafs will appear next year. tome, Ducasse Made Simple by Sophie, comes out in And when she isn’t working on a book or a TV the U.S. in early October and was inspired by master show, Dudemaine, who wanted to be a veterinarian chef Alain Ducasse’s classic Grand Livre de Cuisine, when she was young, entertains in her Normandy guest first released in 2001. Dudemaine developed and house, where she also gives cooking classes. Meanwhile, simplified 100 Ducasse recipes for home cooking, she’s looking forward to traveling America to promote employing shortcuts and simple vocabulary to the launch of her book—at least for the food. “I love demystify gourmet cooking. And once the megachef T-bone steaks and barbecue,” she says. tasted her simplified recipes, he gave her carte —CHANTAL GOUPIL

with a U.K. edition next on the agenda—the bubbly, blonde, straight-talking duo has been described Down FASTFOOD Under as the “Kath & Kim of the culinary world.” Two women and four ingredients The latter is an allusion to the title characters of top- cook up a bestseller. rating Australian sitcom satire Kath & Kim, which charts the adventures of a suburban housewife and her high- maintenance daughter (a U.S. version will bow October The story behind Australia’s biggest-selling book of 9 on NBC starring Molly Shannon and , with 2007 mostly hinges on the simplest of recipes: two by Patricia Field). friends and four ingredients. A hairdresser-turned–shark feeder at ’s Six publishers rejected Rachael Bermingham and Kim UnderWater World, Bermingham transformed herself McCosker’s concept of a pictureless cookbook of 340 into a self-taught marketing and motivational consultant recipes involving four ingredients or less. Neither the and speaker. In February 2006, she published her first book idea nor its authors—two no-name mums from book, Read My Lips. Queensland’s Sunshine Coast—were deemed to have Bermingham first canvassed the cookbook idea much shelf appeal. So they published it themselves—with with longtime pal McCosker at a children’s party an initial run of 2,000 copies. in 2006. They gathered the recipes at playgroups, Ten weeks after its launch in March 2007, barbecues and Bermingham’s seminars, with McCosker 4ingredients had become the fastest-selling cookbook in remortgaging her house to pay for the first print run. Australia and New Zealand. At press time, the book had Discount department store Big W ordered 2,500 sold 800,000 copies between the two countries, outselling copies straight off the bat. Nigella Lawson and Jamie Oliver, with 120,000 copies of The simple, cheap, no-frills recipes include ginger ale– 4ingredients 2 on preorder. And in September, a six-part TV marinated corned beef, fruit yogurt–coated chicken rolled in series of the book launched in Australia. Parmesan-and-cornflake “breadcrumbs” and a date loaf made “We’re stunned—we’re so over the moon,” says from pitted dates, self-rising flour and instant coffee. Bermingham. “Two mummies from the Sunshine Coast who “It gives everybody what we all crave: more time to spend aren’t cooks, not chefs, that just had a desire to cook up really with the people that we love, doing the things that we love and quick, easy and delicious food for their families.” more money in our pocket,” notes Bermingham.

Now inundated with offers from international publishers— —PATTY HUNTINGTON DUDEMAINE PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; BERMINGHAM AND OF BERMINGHAM AND MCCOSKER MCCOSKER COURTESY

Rachael Bermingham and Kim McCosker

WWDscoop71 Anne Hathaway

s beauty c o o LIFEAFTERBOB p The hairstyle of the season is a cut above the rest.

t was the snip heard round the world. the look with full, heavy bangs. Moments after the last of Victoria Beckham’s newly shorn He suggests women look to locks floated toward the floor, her sharply angled bob inspired Madonna and in a rash of copycats—Katie Holmes, and Rihanna Bonnie & Clyde for inspiration, among them. but warns: “You can’t tuck it But now that much of America has caught on to the naked behind the ears or stick barrettes neck, Hollywood and fashion world elites are going longer. on the side. If you are going to Today’s go-to haircut falls just above the shoulders à la Gwyneth wear it, wear it!” Paltrow and Anne Hathaway. A length that was once considered Sally Hershberger hairstylist no-man’s land has emerged as the chic middle ground for fall. Tommy Buckett says longer bobs are best with plenty of texture. “It’s “This season, hair does not go past the shoulder. It stops at the the look of one length, but with long layers with some choppiness collarbone,” declares one-name-only hairstylist Garren. He recently along the bottom,” he explains. “If it was one length, it would be too trimmed actress Amanda Peet’s hair to the collarbone, accentuating Cleopatra.” Buckett favors giving mid-length hair some height, in a

MYYOULOOKRESTED The weak dollar has foreigners fl ocking to the U.S. for deals in cosmetic surgery.

ernadette, a 48-year-old human resources manager from London, planned to return home from her summer vacation in Los Angeles looking more than simply rested. She wanted to look perfect. So, in addition to sightseeing and a spot of shopping, the Birmingham woman spent a day with a Beverly Hills cosmetic surgeon, getting her forehead and brow lifted and bags under her eyes removed. Bernadette, who asked to use her first name only, is one of a jet stream of cosmetic surgery-seeking Europeans on U.S.-bound flights whose travel plans are driven by the weaker dollar. It’s reverse medical tourism: Americans long have been known to fly to places like Bangkok and Mexico to save on procedures such as root canals. Now, given the currency conversion rate, patients and surgeons say flying Stateside for a facelift or tummy tuck, even including airfare and hotel stays, is significantly cheaper than getting the procedure done at home. And that’s even though the pound and euro have weakened against the dollar in recent weeks. As the American economic crisis continues and Americans put off indulgences including liposuction and breast implants, surgeons say their practices are being shored up by tourists from Russia, the Middle East, South America, Europe and Asia. As a result, a number of top-tier practices have started acting as de facto travel agencies, helping their overseas patients book stays at hotels and recovery centers, hiring multilingual office staff and canvassing further business by advertising in in-flight magazines. “Frankly, we’re a bargain for them today,” says Richard Fleming, Bernadette’s surgeon, who runs the Beverly Hills Institute of Aesthetic and Reconstructive Surgery and who is ++ seeing 20 percent more patients from overseas than he did a year ago. “A lot of this is related PHOTO BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; ILLUSTRATION HATHAWAY BY DOMINIQUE CHARRIAU/WIREIMAGE PALTROW BY TYLER RESTY;

72 WWDscoop

nod to the era, with curls and beginning at her chin. “When you get a look-defining cut, you’re so married to controlled frizz. it. It’s very hard to change when you dedicate yourself to one look,” he says. Hairstylist Ted Gibson, meanwhile, Fashion might be hanging on to the short bob. Exhibit A: the fall print prefers stronger, asymmetric cuts, deeming campaigns for and Chanel—but there are stylists who’d like to see Paltrow’s cut “a little bit uptight.” women go shorter than even Beckham’s bob, as Holmes continues to do. “It’s all about the crop. Rihanna “We should keep going shorter,” says stylist John Kovacs of the Chris Chase is a trendsetter in that respect now,” Salon. He recalls when his father, also a hairstylist, was buzzing about Sixties says Gibson, who cut Hathaway’s long movie star Jean Seberg’s shortly cropped cut, a bold departure from the tresses above her shoulders for the Get “wash and set” mentality of the time. Modern-day incarnations of Seberg’s Smart press tour. “Right now it’s about iconic crop include model ’s boyish do. “You can do so much a stronger shape with lots of texture in with short hair—dry it naturally, create a little volume at the top or brush it it.” What would Gibson do if, say, Demi forward for a playful, boyish look,” says Kovacs. Moore landed in his chair with her sleek, Still, for those too skittish to take it all off, the collarbone chop is the black mane draped down the back? “Cut perfect cut. “People always think a change means short hair,” says Antonio it off to her shoulders and part it in the Gonzales, hairstylist at Eva Scrivo Salon, noting that length doesn’t define a middle,” he says unequivocally. “A shorter woman’s beauty, but it does telecast her style. This season, he says, “women cut would emphasize her neck and shoulders.” can either go really short or right to the collarbone.” For those growing out their razor-sharp bobs, longer layers are replacing Shane Manieri, hairstylist at Chris Chase Salon, who calls the look “the defined angles. Last month, for example, Frédéric Fekkai stylist Adir Abergel swing bob,” declares: “It’s what all the most fashionable girls are wearing.” blended actress Kate Beckinsale’s grown-out bangs with longer layers —MOLLY PRIOR

to the value of the dollar, and that’s what everything comes down to.” California, Rome and Milan, says that, while he tries to keep his European For Bernadette, who stayed with friends, the savings were substantial: prices on par with those offered in the U.S., Italian patients fly to Los Angeles, The surgery cost her $9,500, the airfare another $700. She figured the nonetheless. His Vertical Facelift costs $20,000 on American soil. But, given entire month in Los Angeles would total about 6,000 British pounds, or that it’s the same in euros, more of his patients opt to trek to Los Angeles. approximately $10,500. She compared that with the estimates she had been “They then spend the money they save on Rodeo Drive,” he says. given by cosmetic surgeons in London, where she was told the surgery alone Cristina Ambrosini Sittoni is one such patient. A 50-year old government would be closer to 10,000 pounds, or about $19,000. official in a town near Verona, Italy, she says she opted out of a four-hour trip “Now, it seems so cheap,” she says. “And I got a whole holiday out of it.” to Milan for the procedure and instead is flying to Los Angeles in November. Surgeons are taking note and tailoring their businesses to encourage the “It’s still 20 percent cheaper after you consider all the costs,” she says. trend. Simon Ourian—founder of Epione, a cosmetic surgery practice in There are others who figure that if they’re making the trip, they might as Beverly Hills whose international patient base has leapt from 5 to 20 percent well get the works. Each month, Los Angeles–based surgeon David Matlock in the past couple of years—recently performs roughly 12 of what he calls his purchased a home near his clinic that serves Wonder Woman Makeover—a $60,000, as a private hotel for his overseas patients. “IN THEIR MINDS, eight-hour series of surgeries with an “In their minds, they are really getting THEY ARE REALLY ensemble team of surgeons, who work world-class procedures done at what can GETTING WORLD-CLASS simultaneously on liposculpting, breast amount to a 50 percent discount,” he says. lifts and “Brazilian” butt augmentation. Dallas surgeon Jeffrey Adelglass is PROCEDURES DONE AT Of those dozen monthly procedures, half rolling out the red carpet for international WHAT CAN AMOUNT TO are on women from England. patients in a bid to make his home base as A 50 PERCENT DISCOUNT. ” “While it’s a bargain for overseas popular as Beverly Hills and Manhattan. women, it’s not just about the savings,” he He boasts strong connections at the local says. “A lot of these services are just not Ritz-Carlton, pairs patients with personal shoppers at Neiman Marcus and available in other countries. As a result, my overseas business now makes up 35 arranges reservations at the best restaurants in town. percent of all my business, and that’s the highest it’s ever been.” “We have high-profile patients who can be assured of privacy here,” says Still, some doctors are slightly cautionary about the practice, saying major Adelglass. “There aren’t going to be photographers outside the building.” surgery is best and safest when done close to home. Los Angeles–based surgeon Anthony Griffin credits his high-profile “The real problem is you travel several thousand miles away from home appearances on the reality show Extreme Makeover, which still airs in reruns in to have a procedure done, and who’s going to do the follow-up if there’s a 122 countries, as the reason he’s seen a steep spike in overseas business. He problem?” cautions San Francisco surgeon Edmund Zingaro. “The whole estimates that a third of his practice is now international. “We really make it medical tourism thing can be a catch-22 because maybe you’re saving money at seamless. We’ve teamed up with after-care facilities, we have a concierge service one end, but if there are complications, it isn’t necessarily in your best interests. that can arrange airport pickups and our office will make flight arrangements. I Those are the questions people have to ask themselves before they do this.” speak French and Spanish, and one of my employees is fluent in Spanish.” While some surgeons say the trend relies largely on global economics, Perhaps most remarkable is that surgeons who operate both in the U.S. others insist that, once that door has been opened, there’s no turning back. and Europe are seeing Europeans fly to America. Fleming declares, “Once an approach is established, it doesn’t really Renato Calabria, who has clinics in Beverly Hills and Palm Springs in reverse.” —KAVITA DASWANI

WWDscoop73 s takeaway c o o p

▼ “The Luxembourg Garden [above] has such atmosphere and wonderful light. But I also like the gardens at the Palais Royal, too, at the end of the day, and the Grand Véfour for dinner.”

BANK NOTES

Sonia Rykiel celebrates 40 years on the Rive Gauche. ▼ “Olivier Pitou on the Rue des Saints-Pères is onia Rykiel, with her flaming red hair and platform heels, is an icon of Paris’ arty Saint my florist. I love his peonies and his red roses. Germain neighborhood. As a lover of literature and art, she has remained faithful to the Left I buy them for myself and for friends.” Bank enclave for years. She hangs out so often at Café de Flore, where Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir used to talk philosophy over and espresso, that she has a special sandwich named after her. So there’s no question Rykiel has a special connection to Paris and finds ample inspiration in the cobblestone streets, jazz cafes and intellectual history. As the designer celebrates the 40th anniversary of the house she made famous for insouciant knitwear, stripes, sexy dresses and, of course, sparkling rhinestones, Rykiel shares her favorite Paris addresses with WWDScoop. —ROBERT MURPHY

▼ “I love Poilâne for its bread, and Debauve “Of course

RYKIEL PHOTO BY MATHIEU WALTER/CORBIS; WALTER/CORBIS; PHOTO BY MATHIEU RYKIEL IMAGES; CALVERT/GETTY ROSES BY ROSEMARY LUXEMBOURG GARDEN BY BUDDY MAYS/CORBIS & Gallet for chocolates.” Paris isn’t Paris without the Eiffel

Tower. When ▼ “The Brasserie Lipp. I love the history and it sparkles at the people that you see there. It’s great for night, it’s lunch or late at night.”

so Rykiel!” ▼ “L’Ecume des Pages, the bookstore on the Boulevard Saint Germain. It has everything:

▼ “The Café de Flore. I love the first floor, literature, poetry, philosophy and contemporary where I have lunch or have a drink and see art….I’ve been putting books in the windows of my my friends. I have my table and the Club stores since 1968. Books are an integral part of my Rykiel, a club sandwich without bread.” fashion, which I consider a lifestyle that I write.”

74 WWDscoop For us, inspiration is everywhere.

The deep, burnt orange of an autumn leaf. A streetlight reflected in a puddle after a long rain. The delicate shimmer of the starlit sky.

What will inspire you this Fall?

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