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Fall 1999 Gems & Gemology

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EDITORIAL Contents The 1999 International Gemological Symposium: What a Ride! 1 Alice Keller and Kathryn Kimmel VALEDICTORY ADDRESSES Globalization and Technology: Dynamic Forces for the 21st Century 2 Maurice Tempelsman Meeting the Millennium in the Gem & Jewelry Trade 8 William E. Boyajian SPECIAL SESSION Observations on GE-Processed Diamonds: A Photographic Record 14 Thomas M. Moses, James E. Shigley, Shane F. McClure, John I. Koivula, and Mark Van Daele PHOTOMONTAGE People, Places, and Events 23 ABSTRACTS OF FEATURE PRESENTATIONS / BY SESSION DIAMOND Changes and New Developments in Africa 34 SOURCES John J. Gurney Diamonds from Australia 37 A. J. A. (Bram) Janse Canadian Diamond Production: A Government Perspective 40 Douglas Paget Russian Diamond Sources 43 N. V. Sobolev DIAMOND The New York Diamond Market 44 MANUFACTURING Hertz Hasenfeld & DISTRIBUTION The Antwerp Diamond Sector 46 Marcel Pruwer The Indian Perspective: Challenges and New Developments 47 M. A. Mitchell Diamond Manufacturing and Distribution: The Israeli Perspective 49 Shmuel Schnitzer DIAMOND The Effect of International Economic Developments ECONOMICS on the Diamond Market 50 Carl Pearson Diamond Economics: A Dynamic Analysis 51 Martin Rapaport The Diamond Distribution System 52 Eli Haas Retail Markets and the Growing Global Significance of Branding 53 Russell Shor PERSPECTIVES A Manufacturer's Perspective 55 ON THE DIAMOND Sean Cohen MARKET The U.S. Diamond Industry 56 Benjamin Janowski Today and Tomorrow in the Japanese Jewelry Market 58 Hidetaka Kato The Developing Market in China 59 Gerald L. S. Rothschild i COLORED STONE Ruby and Sapphire Occurrences Around the World 60 SOURCES Robert E. Kane Emeralds—Recent Developments and Projected Changes in Supply 62 Dietmar Schwarz Review of Gem Localities in North America, Russia, and Southeast Asia 64 William Larson Colored Stone Sources in Africa and Madagascar 66 Abe K. Suleman COLORED STONE Will There Be Another Chance for Business in the DISTRIBUTION & Asian Colored Stone Jewelry Market? 68 MARKETING Yasukazu Suwa Snake Oil or Cedar Oil: Have Your Colored Stones Been Enhanced, and Are You Telling the Tale? 70 Gerald Manning South America: The Birth of a New Jewelry-Consuming Market 71 Daniel André Sauer PEARLS— The Present and Future of Akoya Cultured Pearls 73 THE SOURCES Shigeru Akamatsu Freshwater Pearls: New Millennium—New Pearl Order 75 James L. Peach Sr. The Tahitian Cultured Pearl: Past, Present, and Future 76 Robert Wan Cultured South Sea Pearls 77 Andy Muller GEM IDENTIFICATION The Ongoing Challenge of Diamond Identification 80 James E. Shigley The Identification of Ruby and Sapphire 82 Kenneth Scarratt Distinguishing Natural from Synthetic Emeralds 84 Karl Schmetzer Identification Challenges of the New Millennium 86 Shane F. McClure TREATMENTS Identifying Diamond Treatments 88 Ilene M. Reinitz Fluxes and the Heat Treatment of Ruby and Sapphire 90 John L. Emmett Fissure-Filled Emeralds and Their Detection 93 Henry A. Hänni An Overview of Gemstone Treatments 95 Kurt Nassau TIMELESSNESS Chaumet—A Very Parisian Jeweler 97 OF ANTIQUE & Diana Scarisbrick ESTATE JEWELRY Early 20th Century Jewelry 99 Elise B. Misiorowski The Marketing of Period Jewelry During the 20th Century and into the Next Millennium 101 Joseph H. Samuel Jr. ORIGINAL & Adapting Classic Designs to Modern Markets 103 TREND-SETTING Robert Lee Morris JEWELRY DESIGN Creating a Luxury Brand 104 David Yurman ii The American Designer Jewelry Movement: Where It Came from and Where It's Going 105 Cindy Edelstein RETAILING IN THE Perspective of a High-End Jeweler 107 NEW MILLENNIUM Stephen Magner Perspective of an Electronic Retailer 109 John Calnon Editor’s note: Because of con- Meeting Customer Needs 111 tractual restrictions, we could Matthew Stuller not include the talks of business Can a Family Business Compete speakers Peter Ueberroth, Al in the 21st Century Jewelry Market? 112 Thomas Tivol Ries, Don Tapscott, Art Laffer, and Rushworth Kidder. However, PANEL DISCUSSIONS audio recordings of most ses- Diamond Production in the 21st Century 114 sions, including the last four Manufacturing and Marketing Diamond Jewelry in the 21st Century 116 business speakers, can be pur- The Role of Laboratory-Grown Materials in the 21st Century 118 chased through The Sound of Knowledge (www.tsok.net). The Leadership Role of Fine Jewelry in the 21st Century 120 Note that, unlike a regular Marketing Pearl Jewelry in the Next Millennium 122 issue of Gems & Gemology, none Critical Issues in the 21st Century 124 of the articles or other informa- Marketing Opportunities in the 21st Century 126 tion in this volume was submit- The Importance of Electronic Networking in the 21st Century 128 ted to peer review, although sev- eral internal reviewers were THE WAR ROOMS involved in the editorial process. Branding 130 Also because of its special Appraisals 132 nature, this issue is paginated Diamond Cut 134 separately from the other issues Disclosure 136 of G&G in this volume year, and POSTER SESSION ABSTRACTS: A MARKETPLACE OF NEW IDEAS 138 it has a separate index as well. INDEX 177 ABOUT THE COVER: The diversity of presentations at the 3rd International Gemological Symposium—from old localities to new, from period jewelry to contempo- rary, from diamonds to a vast array of colored stones and pearls—is illustrated on the cover of this special Proceedings issue: (1) Antique platinum earrings with white drop- shaped natural pearls (each 14.3 x 10.5 mm) and diamonds; (2) a 12.5 mm Tahitian cultured black pearl; (3) a 4.40 ct violetish purple spinel, Sri Lanka; (4) a 3.83 ct pink spinel crystal, Mogok, Myanmar; (5) a 1.76 ct blue spinel, Sri Lanka; (6) a 1.53 ct pur- ple-red spinel, Vietnam; (7) a 16.95 ct dodecahedral yellow diamond crystal, Ivory Coast; (8) a 6.58 ct “Jubilee”-cut J-VS1 diamond; (9) a 0.65 ct Fancy Vivid yellow dia- mond; (10) a 0.30 ct Fancy Deep blue diamond; (11) a 0.31 ct Fancy Intense purple- pink diamond; (12) a 10.07 ct tanzanite in a platinum and gold ring designed by Bernd Munsteiner; (13) a 12.64 ct spessartine garnet, Kunene River, Namibia; (14) a 7.54 ct green tourmaline, Paraíba, Brazil; (15) a 5.84 ct greenish blue tourmaline, Paraíba, Brazil; (16) a 5.04 ct ruby, Malawi; (17) a 2.12 ct emerald, Coscuez, Colombia; (18) a 3.05 ct sapphire. Stones and jewelry from the collection of Michael M. Scott. Photo © Harold & Erica Van Pelt—Photographers, Los Angeles, California Color separations for Gems & Gemology are by Pacific Color, Carlsbad, California. Printing is by Fry Communications, Inc., Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania. © 1999 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved ISSN 0016-626X iii VOLUME 35 NO. 3 EDITORIAL STAFF Editor-in-Chief Editor Editors,Gem Trade Lab Notes Richard T. Liddicoat Alice S. Keller Thomas M. Moses Publisher 5345 Armada Drive Ilene Reinitz William E. Boyajian Carlsbad, CA 92008 Shane F. McClure (760) 603-4504 Associate Editor e-mail: [email protected] Editors, Gem News John Sinkankas Mary L. Johnson, John I. Koivula, Senior Editor Technical Editor Dino DeGhionno, and Brendan Laurs Shane F. McClure Carol M. Stockton e-mail: [email protected] Editors, Book Reviews Assistant Editor Subscriptions Stuart Overlin Susan B. Johnson Debbie Ortiz Jana E. Miyahira-Smith e-mail: [email protected] (800) 421-7250, ext. 7142 Contributing Editor Fax: (760) 603-4595 Editor, Gemological Abstracts John I. Koivula e-mail: [email protected] A. A. Levinson PRODUCTION STAFF Art Director Production Assistant WEB SITE Seth Hogan Carole Johnson www.giaonline.gia.edu EDITORIAL REVIEW BOARD Alan T. Collins Alan Jobbins Kurt Nassau London, United Kingdom Caterham, United Kingdom P.O. Lebanon, New Jersey G. Robert Crowningshield Mary L. Johnson George Rossman New York, New York Carlsbad, California Pasadena, California John Emmett Anthony R. Kampf Kenneth Scarratt Brush Prairie, Washington, Los Angeles, California New York, New York Emmanuel Fritsch Robert E. Kane Karl Schmetzer Nantes, France San Diego, California Petershausen, Germany C. W. Fryer John I. Koivula James E. Shigley Santa Monica, California Carlsbad, California Carlsbad, California Henry A. Hänni A. A. Levinson Christopher P. Smith Basel, Switzerland Calgary, Alberta, Canada Lucerne, Switzerland C. S. Hurlbut, Jr. Thomas M. Moses Cambridge, Massachusetts New York, New York SUBSCRIPTIONS and SINGLE COPIES Subscriptions to addresses in the U.S.A. are priced as follows: $69.95 for one year (4 issues), $179.95 for three years (12 issues). Subscriptions sent elsewhere are $80.00 for one year, $210.00 for three years. Special annual subscription rates are available for all students actively involved in a GIA program: $59.95 to addresses in the U.S.A.; $70.00 elsewhere. Your student number must be listed at the time your subscription is entered. Single copies of this special Proceedings issue may be purchased for $24.95 in the U.S.A., $35.00 elsewhere. Discounts are given for bulk orders of 10 or more of any one issue. A limited number of back issues of G&G are also available for purchase. Please address all inquiries regarding subscriptions and the purchase of single copies or back issues to the Subscriptions Department. or contact us on the Web at www.giaonline.gia.edu. To obtain a Japanese translation of Gems & Gemology, contact GIA Japan, Okachimachi Cy Bldg., 5-15-14 Ueno, Taitoku, Tokyo 110, Japan. Our Canadian goods and service registration number is 126142892RT. MANUSCRIPT SUBMISSIONS Gems & Gemology welcomes the submission of articles on all aspects of the field. Please see the Guidelines for Authors in the Spring 1999 issue of the journal, or contact the Senior Editor for a copy. Letters on articles published in Gems & Gemology and other relevant matters are also welcome. COPYRIGHT AND REPRINT PERMISSIONS Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the limits of U.S.
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