Paper Materials in Fashion Design Creative Applications
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“The Answer to Laundry in Outer Space”: the Rise and Fall of The
Archived thesis/research paper/faculty publication from the University of North Carolina at Asheville’s NC DOCKS Institutional Repository: http://libres.uncg.edu/ir/unca/ University of North Carolina Asheville “The Answer to Laundry in Outer Space”: The Rise and Fall of the Paper Dress in 1960s American Fashion A Senior Thesis Submitted to the Faculty of the Department of History In Candidacy for the Degree of Bachelor of Arts in History By Virginia Knight Asheville, North Carolina November 2014 1 A woman stands in front of a mirror in a dressing room, a sales assistant by her side. The sales assistant, with arms full of clothing and a tape measure around her neck, beams at the woman, who is looking at her reflection with a confused stare. The woman is wearing what from the front appears to be a normal, knee-length floral dress. However, the mirror behind her reveals that the “dress” is actually a flimsy sheet of paper that is taped onto the woman and leaves her back-half exposed. The caption reads: “So these are the disposable paper dresses I’ve been reading about?” This newspaper cartoon pokes fun at one of the most defining fashion trends in American history: the paper dress of the late 1960s.1 In 1966, the American Scott Paper Company created a marketing campaign where customers sent in a coupon and shipping money to receive a dress made of a cellulose material called “Dura-Weave.” The coupon came with paper towels, and what began as a way to market Scott’s paper products became a unique trend of American fashion in the late 1960s. -
Textile Design Application Via Electroless Nickel Plating
8ISS Symposium-Panel on Technology Textile Design Application via Electroless Nickel Plating R. H. GUOa,b, S. X. JIANGb, C.W.M. YUENb, M.C.F. NGb aCollege of Light Industry, Textile and Food Engineering, Sichuan University, No.24 South Section 1, Yihuan Road, Chengdu, China bInstitute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong, China Nickel sulfate (NiSO4·6H2O), sodium hypophosphite Abstract (NaH2PO2·H2O), sodium citrate (Na3C6H5O7·2H2O), Metallized textile has a metallic color with reflective sodium hydroxide (NaOH), boric acid (H3BO3), tin effect and smooth handle. This study aims to investigate chloride (SnCl2·H2O), palladium chloride (PdCl2), and the appearances of the nickel plated fabrics produced by hydrochloric acid (HCl) and deionized water were used different plating conditions including different nickel during solution preparation. All the chemicals used were sulfate concentrations and temperatures. Design of analytical grade. application of the electroless nickel plating on two kinds of fabrics was developed. The electroless plating could The textile designs of the electroless nickel plating were change the original appearance of the fabric through the inspired by the traditional dyeing techniques. Design deposition of metal particles on the fabric surface. The method, namely tie-dye and material shielding were final pattern was well defined using many details such as chosen to create various shapes. The fabrics were lines and forms created by the design methods. The gathered together and masked at the designed areas present study laid the foundation for the electroless with thread, wooden sticks or stainless steel clips to nickel plated fabric and fashion design. -
New Hanji a Korean Paper Tradition Re-Imagined
New Hanji A Korean Paper Tradition Re-Imagined OCTOBER 9, 2015 - JANUARY 3, 2016 curated by Chelsea Holton and Rina Yoon 2 Foreword Chelsea Holton Paper changed everything. From humble origins, this product has allowed us to spread knowledge, record history, and express ourselves in myriad ways. Much as the digital revolution today is dramatically changing the speed and ways in which we communicate, so did the invention of paper almost 2,000 years ago. And yet, even as the use of paper disappears from our daily lives, the reaction to protect and honor the tradition of handmade paper seems natural. This exhibition: New Hanji: A Korean Paper Tradition Re-Imagined does just that. The birth of papermaking is murky, but most settle on the achievements of the Chi- nese court official, Ts’ai Lun, in the year 105CE, as a milestone in the development of fiber-based paper. Papyrus and parchment, among the precursors to paper, were difficult to make and not widely available. Ts’ai Lun created writing surfaces out of readily available raw materials such as bark and hemp. With the advent of an affordable, mass-producible product, the vast and rapid spread of ideas worldwide was inevitable. Papermaking made its way to Korea from China sometime before the 4th century CE and was firmly established throughout Korea by the 8th century CE. The trans- mission of papermaking technology to Korea was almost certainly linked to the spread of Buddhist teachings from China to Korea. A notable moment was the year 372 CE, when the Chinese monk, Shundao, visited the Goguryeo kingdom in the north of Korea. -
Effect of Fines Distribution on Press Dewatering
Analysis of Historical Documents from a Viewpoint of Paper Science Analysis of Historical Documents from a Viewpoint of Paper Science YOON-HEE HAN*, TOSHIHARU ENOMAE†, AKIRA ISOGAI‡, HIROFUMI YAMAMOTO** and MICHIHISA HOTATE** *JSPS Postdoctoral Fellow, †Associate Professor, ‡Professor **Professor of Historiographical Institute *Paper Science Lab., Department of Biomaterial Sciences, Graduate School of Agricultural and Life Sciences The University of Tokyo, Yayoi 1-1-1, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113-8657, JAPAN Currently affiliated with *Historiographical Institute, The University of Tokyo, Hongo 7-3-1, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113-8654, JAPAN [email protected] (Toshiharu Enomae) ABSTRACT Restoration of historical documents and arts has become important to inherit cultural properties. Most of historical documents were recorded on paper. Therefore, restoration of ancient papers is demanded and techniques for this purpose must be developed and sophisticated. In our study, several nondestructive methods for analyzing ancient paper have been developed. Image analysis using fast Fourier transform with suitable modifications was applied to optical micrographs of traditionally-handmade Korean and Japanese papers. This analysis determines the angle and anisotropy of fiber orientation of paper surfaces. Fiber orientation of traditionally-handmade Korean and Japanese papers was found to show their own characteristics in accordance with the motion of a papermaking screen made of bamboo splints. Consequently, the information on fiber orientation was found to be possible to distinguish the flow-sheet forming typical of Japanese paper and still- sheet forming typical of Korean paper. Moreover, the anisotropy was always higher for the screen side than for the top side, thus meaning that surface fiber orientation is possible to distinguish the two sides of paper of which papermaking history is unknown. -
Permanence, Durability and Unique Properties of Hanji
1 Permanence, Durability and Unique Properties of Hanji MINAH SONG, JESSE MUNN ABSTRACT This research project presents new information about the permanence and durability of contemporary Korean handmade papers, explains the particular methods of traditional hanji papermakers while introducing the possibilities of utilizing the products of Korean papermills in conservation. Traditional Korean papermaking uses a unique technique, known as webal, to form a sheet which distributes fibers evenly in both directions theoretically resulting in less specific grain direction and an expansion/contraction rate which is even in both directions. In addition, Korean paper employs an exclusive use of paper mulberry known as chamdak or dak in contrast to the typically mixed fiber furnish of Chinese papers. Like most East Asian papers, the pH of Korean paper is alkaline or neutral. The typical alkalis used to prepare fibers are soda ash (Na2CO3) or caustic soda (NaOH). A variety of contemporary samples of Korean papers have been artificially aged and evaluated according to TAPPI standards under the direction of the Research and Testing Laboratory of the Library of Congress. This project will present interesting data concerning tensile strength, brightness, and pH before and after aging as well as expansion and contraction measurements. The results are very promising for the possibility of using Hanji for conservation treatment. One of the suggested advantages of using Hanji may be in the lack of strong grain direction providing a stable and non competing repair or lining paper. 1. HANJI: KOREAN HANDMADE PAPER 1.1 History Many historians say that paper was invented by Ts'ai Lun in 105 C.E. -
Conference 2021: Clothing on Paper
Conference 2021: Clothing on Paper The Costume Society is the UK’s largest and longest running fashion and dress history network. This year our conference will be exclusively online and running across 5 sessions in June and July. Session 1 - Saturday 26th June 2021 14.00-17.00 BST Session 2 - Wednesday 30th June 2021 19.00 - 20.30 BST Session 3 - Saturday 3rd July 2021 14.00 - 17.00 BST Session 4 - Wednesday 7th July 2021 19.00 - 20.30 BST Session 5- Wednesday 21st July 19.00 - 20.00 BST The theme of the 2021 conference pays tribute to Ann Saunders MBE FSA (1931-2019), former Editor of Costume and celebrates the huge contribution she made to The Costume Society. The conference explores the relationship between clothing and paper whether it be in the context of designing and making, communicating ideas or as sources for developing a further understanding of the history of clothes. Leading academics, creatives and industry professionals will share their research, thoughts and experiences giving us a chance to explore the multiple ways paper connects with the world of fashion. Split across five sessions the conference features Keynote speakers Hormazd Narielwalla and Babette Radclyffe-Thomas. The conference theme Clothing on Paper has a natural affinity with the Costume Society's Patterns of Fashion and Patterns for Performance Awards and the conference includes an exclusive event where this year's finalists will be revealed. Please book via Eventbrite 1 Conference Schedule Session 1 Saturday 26th June 14:00-17:00 BST Keynote 1 “The Artistic -
Forest, Paper and Packaging Deals Branching out – 2008 Annual Review Mergers and Acquisitions Activity in the Forest, Paper and Packaging Industry Contents
Industrial Products Forest, Paper and Packaging Forest, paper and packaging deals Branching Out – 2008 Annual review Mergers and acquisitions activity in the forest, paper and packaging industry Contents Introduction. 01 Report highlights. 02 Deal totals. 04 Deal makers. 06 Deal places. 08 North America . 10 Europe. 12 Asia Pacific. 14 Latin America. 16 Looking ahead. 18 Our transactions expertise . 20 Contacts. 21 Methodology Forest paper and packaging deals is based on published transactions from the Dealogic ‘M&A Global’ database, January 2009. Deals are included on an announced basis, adjusted to include only accepted offers. Deal values are the consideration value announced or reported including any assumption of debt and liabilities. Figures relate to actual stake purchased and are not multiplied up to 100%. The geographical split of the deals refers to the location of the target company or assets. The analysis relates to the forest, paper and paper based packaging sector and therefore excludes related sectors such as printing and plastic, glass and metal packaging. The sector and subsectors analysed include: forestland/forestry (e.g. standing timber, nurseries, harvesting and logging operators), wood products (e.g. sawn timber, wood-based building materials), pulp & paper (e.g. pulp, primary paper producers) and converting (incl distribution) (e.g. packaging and tissue product producers, paper converters, paper merchants). Introduction 01 Many companies in analysis of M&A activity across industries the forest, paper and world-wide. Our FPP deals analysis is also packaging (FPP) industries complemented by our regular CEO Perspectives are facing unprecedented report, which analyses the viewpoints of a tough market conditions. -
Evaluation of Conservation Quality Eastern Papers Regarding Materials and Process
Adapt & Evolve 2015: East Asian Materials and Techniques in Western Conservation. Proceedings from the International Conference of the Icon Book & Paper Group, London 8–10 April 2015 https://icon.org.uk/node/4998 Evaluation of conservation quality Eastern papers regarding materials and process Minah Song Copyright information: This article is published by Icon on an Open Access basis under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives License (CC BY-NC-ND) https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. You are free to copy and redistribute this material in any medium or format under the following terms: You must give appropriate credit and provide a link to the license (you may do so in any reasonable manner, but not in any way which suggests that Icon endorses you or your use); you may not use the material for commercial purposes; and if you remix, transform, or build upon the material you may not distribute the modified material without prior consent of the copyright holder. You must not detach this page. To cite this article: Minah Song, ‘Evaluation of conservation quality Eastern papers regarding materials and process’ in Adapt & Evolve 2015: East Asian Materials and Techniques in Western Conservation. Proceedings from the International Conference of the Icon Book & Paper Group, London 8–10 April 2015 (London, The Institute of Conservation: 2017), 137–48. Adapt & Evolve 2015: East Asian Materials and Techniques in Western Conservation. Proceedings from the International Conference of the Icon Book & Paper Group, London 8-10 April 2015 137 Minah Song Evaluation of conservation quality Eastern papers regarding materials and process Introduction When conservators try to find a specific type of Eastern paper for a certain project, they think about visual specifications, permanence and durability, and, of course, about the price. -
Innovative Approaches Improve Competitiveness – Dongil Paper
Published November 3, 2011 Innovative Approaches Innovative Approaches Improve Competitiveness – Dongil Paper Executive Summary The paper industry in developed countries has been facing challenges from a mature market. In spite of challenging economic forecasts, investments in innovative technologies have proven to improve the competitive edge as well as the profitability of a company. Dongil Paper has taken a unique approach to increasing profitability. Instead of reducing costs in the hope of constant market price, they have made small scale investments to existing production machines. These investments simultaneously accomplish cost savings and address new environmental requirements, which in turn can lead to production of new higher margin grades and an increased return on investment. Dongil Paper found their competitive edge in this challenging economic market using starch spray application and curtain coating on a low brightness base sheet. Abstract The paper industry in developed countries i.e. North America, Western Europe, Scandinavia, Japan and South Korea has for many years been struggling with the incapability of maintaining profitable operation, justifying new capital investments and expanding the market areas. Dongil Paper, located in South Korea, © Valmet Page | 1 Published November 3, 2011 Innovative Approaches has through considered risk taking expanded its position as a market leader in the local packaging industry. In spite of challenging economic forecasts for the industry, investments in innovative technologies have proven to improve the competitive edge in the market as well as the profitability of the company. Capital investments in new technology provide manufacturing cost savings, positive environmental impact and give great return in the short term. -
Handmade Gampi
Table of Contents Introduction ........................................................................ 2 About Us & Ordering Terms ............................................ 3 History of Washi ................................................................ 4 Japanese Papermaking .................................................... 5 Differences Between Washi and Western Paper ................... 7 Where our Washi Comes From ...................................... 8 Paper Specifications ........................................................ 11 Pricelist ............................................................................... 16 Fine Art and Conservation Handmade Papers ............................................. 20 Machinemade Papers ....................................... 26 Gampi Papers ..................................................... 29 Large Size Papers .............................................. 31 Small Size/ Specialty Papers .......................... 34 Rolls 100% Kozo Rolls ................................................ 36 Kozo Mix Rolls ................................................... 38 100% Sulphite Pulp Rolls ................................. 38 Inkjet Coated Rolls ........................................... 39 Gampi Rolls ........................................................ 39 Rayon Rolls ......................................................... 40 Decorative Rolls ................................................ 40 Decorative ........................................................................ -
Characterization of Korean Handmade Papers Collected in a Hanji
Han et al. Herit Sci (2021) 9:96 https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-021-00570-9 RESEARCH ARTICLE Open Access Characterization of Korean handmade papers collected in a Hanji reference book Bin Han1,2* , Léon‑Bavi Vilmont2, Hyoung‑Jin Kim3, Bertrand Lavédrine2, Shouji Sakamoto4 and Michel Sablier2 Abstract Korean hand papermaking is a renowned cultural tradition in the Korean peninsula. It is still practiced while scientifc analysis of paper itself from a large data set is rare. In this study, a set of more than three hundred Korean handmade papers, collected in a reference collection book Hanji: Korean handmade paper, were chemically investigated, and their property data such as colour, pH, grammage, thickness, tensile strength, folding endurance were statistically analysed in order to determine general features for Korean papers. The infuence of diferent paper sheet formation methods (Heullimtteugi vs Gadumtteugi) were revealed by multivariate data analysis and the chemical profles of raw materi‑ als were studied by pyrolysis–gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (Py-GC/MS). The Korean handmade paper samples display colour gamut in the colour space L* (69.9–95.9), a* [( 3)-3], b* (0–20), most have neutral/alkaline pH values. Paper density, fber orientation and physical properties are infuenced− by the sheet formation techniques. For instance, Gadumtteugi tends to produce papers with strong fber orientation while Heullimtteugi produces papers with more evenly distribution of fbers. In addition, Py-GC/MS analysis results show that paper mulberry fbers contain less intensity lignin monomers and more terpenic compounds in comparison with gampi and mitsumata fbers. This study provides paper analysis from large sample set, statistics reveal that the material preparing and making craft determined the paper structure which refected in their physical properties. -
Handmade Paper: a Review of Its History, Craft, and Science
REVIEW ARTICLE bioresources.com HANDMADE PAPER: A REVIEW OF ITS HISTORY, CRAFT, AND SCIENCE Martin A. Hubbe a* and Cindy Bowden b For over 2000 years the manual craft of papermaking has been practiced all over the world utilizing a variety of techniques. This review describes the evolution of hand papermaking and its cultural significance. Paper’s evolution has been shaped by the structure and chemical composition of the fibers. Almost every aspect of modern papermaking technology has been foreshadowed by traditional practices. Such practices were passed down for many generations within families of papermakers. The main sources of cellulosic fiber evolved as the ancient craft migrated from its birthplace in China to Korea and Japan, the Islamic world, and then to Europe and America. Though most paper made today comes from automated, continuous production systems, handmade paper has enjoyed a resurgence, both as a traditional craft and as an art-form. In addition, traditional papermaking methods can provide insights to help in modern applications involving cellulosic fibers. Keywords: Handmade paper; History; Handcraft; Science; Cellulosic fibers Contact information: a: Department of Forest Biomaterials; North Carolina State University; Campus Box 8005; Raleigh, NC 27695-8005 USA; b: Robert C. Williams American Museum of Papermaking, Inst. of Paper Science and Technology, Mail Code 0620, Georgia Tech., Atlanta, GA 30332-0620; *Corresponding author: [email protected] INTRODUCTION Whenever people engage their hands and minds to make paper, there is a continuing opportunity for evolution of the craft. Each maker adopts or selectively omits parts of the methods that have been passed down to them, sometimes inventing new techniques.