Ark of Taste in Albania

Home , Albanian tribes, Albanian wine, Central Albania, Dobi, Elbasan County, Fier County

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ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 2 10/6/20 9:06 AM the ark of taste inventory in Alba food, knowledge, and stories of gastronomic heritage

Slow Food®

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FRAMEWORK 5 OF THE PUBLICATION

he Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) technical assistance in Albania aims to preserve the biodiversity, enhancing sustainable productivity in the food and agriculture sector through multi-stakeholder partnerships from farm to fork. A key focus is to support the use of the rich Tdiversity of the Albanian traditional cuisine and the unique gastronomic experience to facilitate market development and integration.

FAO accelerated its support to strengthen institutional capacities, enhancing national agriculture and rural development policy framework in order to facilitate XLIGSYRXVMIWIǺSVXWXS[EVHWMXWLEVQSRM^EXMSR[MXLXLIEGUYMWGSQQYREYXEMVISJ the European Union.

Establishing a sound legislation to regulate and protect Geographical Indication is among key aspects for meeting the EU acquis and enacting an enabling framework that safeguards Albania’s agricultural and gastronomic heritage, and leverages its potential to support sustainability of rural livelihoods on the producer side while improving and diversifying diet choices for consumers delivered across the country and beyond.

This publication is an important achievement jointly realized with Slow Food, a global, grassroots Organization acting to safeguard food biodiversity across the [SVPH JSV QSVI XLER ]IEVW ERH SRI SJ +&4ƶW WXVEXIKMG TEVXRIVW MR XLMW IǺSVX Sharing the vision for promoting Geographical Indications, FAO and the Slow Food raised awareness and introduced Albania’s extraordinary gastronomic heritage by SYXPMRMRKMXWLMWXSV]GYPMREV]XVEHMXMSRWERHYRMUYIǼEZSVWMJSǺIVW

The publication has collected a list of products thanks to the valuable contribution of many chefs and volunteers of the Slow Food network in the country, who shared their culinary knowledge and secrets and who work passionately to safeguard the traditional cuisine heritage, which Albania has built over centuries. I believe that this unique collection will contribute to the Albanian Gastronomic Renaissance and the country’s commitment to the Sustainable Development Agenda. It will particularly to facilitate eradicating poverty (SDG1), ensuring food security and nutrition (SDG2) and promoting sustainable consumption (SDG12). This unique examples are prepared and released as part of FAO’s work within the framework of the Regional Initiative on improving agrifood trade and market integration in Europe and Central Asia.

Raimund Jehle FAO Representative for Albania Regional Programme Leader for Europe and Central Asia

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ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 6 B EMXIEH IMIXEǻH LMRXVP EMEMPEMR TIHSGPMQEXMG cultural andsocial conditions. Infacts, ontheonehand, they preserve cultural MR&PFERMER LEFMXEX REXYVEP XLIMV ǻRH XLEX VIGMTIW ERH ZEVMIXMIW of thereasons why itisimportant to know, catalogue, andprotect all thoselocal called with afree-range chicken (Jufkadibre mepulë), or of atypical fruitpreserve the caseof Dibra Jufka,atypeof handmade eggpastacooked in a wood oven and typical Albanian dishes,some of themcatalogued alsointhisbook. This is TVSHYGXW XVEHMXMSREP SǺIV XS WXEVXMRK EVI XLI] VIWXEYVERXW RI[ XLIMV .R VIEPMX] transmission of oldtraditions bepossibleand theinnovation of thislatter a of 2008,openingactivities where they enhance local biodiversity, let the emigrated inthepast-decidedto return to their country dueto thecrisis MRXIVIWXMRK ER XS phenomenon of “returning SVMKMRW immigration”. Many MXW Albanian chefs – who have ǻRHW [LMGL XVIRH VIGIRX E MW 8LMW VIHMWGSZIVIH Fortunately, thingsare changingandreal Albanian cuisineislately being club sandwichesandCaesar saladsrather thanagoodbyrek. MRXIVREXMSREPXVIRHWLEWMRǼYIRGIHJSSH MRYVFEREVIEWMXMWJERGMIVXSLEZI nineties andstill today, consumerism arrived andthe western model,following to 2options: theindustrial white brinedcheeseor kaçkaval. Ontop of this,inthe look for example at cheese, its immense pastoral dairy tradition where reduced SJXLIGSQQYRMWXHMGXEXSVWLMTLEZIWSQILS[ǼEXXIRIH&PFERMERWƶXEWXI.J[I country shapedalsothelocal customs anditsgastronomy The over forty years Balkan area, especially when itcomes to Albania. Infacts, thehistory of this Talking aboutfood biodiversity anditsprotection isof crucial importance inthe that feeds usand will continue to feed us. agricultural andfood heritage, in order not to lose theconnection with the land unique heritage. Through the Ark, communities are invited to rediscover their initiative that seeksto create information, knowledge, andawareness aboutthis Ark of Taste, a global project that this book takes up in its Albanian context, is an today, we are trampling, hurting,andmistreating. From thispoint of view, the on for those who will come after usandlive onthisplanet Earth, aplanet that, moral duty that we, thegeneration that inhabitsthishistoric moment, musttake by nostalgicenvironmentalists: Itis,rather, theonly viable path forward. Itisa among anumber of choices, advanced by theintellectuals of conservation or Defending, protecting, andpromoting biodiversity istherefore not simply one gliko formed astheresult of humanadaptation to thenatural environment. very soil on which civilizations and cultures have beenshapedand Without it,thefoundation for humanlife ontheplanet islost,asthe iodiversity isthegreatest promise for thefuture of humankind. are (walnut [MPHǻKKPMOS8LMWMWSRP]SRI gliko) or ďĮĞīŇƐĀīƣƐĞƐåďêŹ 10/6/20 9:06AM heritage, on the other, represent the only democratic instrument for restoring local economy and protect the authentic beauty of this land. 7 As citizens, we must be aware that the gastronomic heritage of a country rests primarily on the shoulders of these people, who, among other things, are those who care for the environment, who keep marginal communities alive, who save soils from erosion, and who protect biological, cultural, and food diversity.

Defending biodiversity takes us toward a more sustainable future, and a sustainable future for Albania as a whole represents a hope for the future of the entire planet. This publication is intended as a tool to promote Albania’s biodiversity and make it known to the wider public. We are at the beginning of a long and fascinating journey of discovery. Great things lie ahead.

Carlo Petrini

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ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 8 S www.slowfood.com Narrative Labels,Slow Food Chefs’ Alliance, and Earth Markets. agricultural biodiversity: the Ark of Taste, 10,000 Gardens in Africa, Presidia and and coordinates agroup of international projects focused onprotecting UYEPMX]SJPMJIFYXKYEVERXIIMRKXLIZIV]WYVZMZEPSJPSGEPGSQQYRMXMIW.XǻRERGIW in theGlobal South, where defending biodiversity meansnot only improving products and practices. The Foundation’s activity focuses primarily on countries Slow Food hasbecome what itistoday basedonthesafeguarding of traditional plant, produce, andeat. and animal welfare andsupportstheright of eachcommunity to decide what to sustainable model of agriculture that respects theenvironment, cultural identity, food biodiversity andgastronomic traditions around the world. Itpromotes a The Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity was created in2003to safeguard processed food, industrial agribusiness,andtherulesof theglobal market. of cultivation andproduction. These are all threatened by theprevalence of defending the biodiversity of cultivated and wild varieties as well as methods Slow Food iscommitted to protecting traditional, sustainable,quality foods, co-producers (conscious consumers) through events andinitiatives. and responsible consumption; andto connect producers of quality foods with friendly food production andconsumption system; to spread sensory education works to defend biodiversity andto promote asustainableandenvironmentally respects the work of those who produce, process, anddistribute it.Slow Food environmental impactand with animal welfare inmind;andfair becauseit is healthy inadditionto tastinggood;cleanbecauseitisproduced with low Slow Food promotes food that isgood,cleanandfair for all:goodbecauseit every year. local chapters and2,400food communities, andreaches millionsof people steering the action of the entire movement, which is composed of over 1,500 fair food. Slow Food istheumbrella organization responsible for guidingand 160 countries, working to ensure that everyone hasaccess to good,clean and WHAT ISSLOW FOOD? has grown into aglobal movement involving millions of people in over counteract theriseof fast food culture. Since itsfounding, Slow Food prevent thedisappearance of local food cultures andtraditions and Slow Food isaglobal,grassroots organization, founded in1989to 10/6/20 9:06AM ABOUT THE UNIVERSITY OF GASTRONOMIC SCIENCES 9

ounded by the Slow Food movement and located in the heart of the food and wine region of Piedmont, Italy, the University of Gastronomic F Sciences (UNISG) supports a unique educational design based on: • cross-disciplinary learning • practical experience • study trips around the world

The distinctiveness of the University’s programs attracts students from HS^IRW SJ HMǺIVIRX GSYRXVMIW [LS EVI MRXIVIWXIH MR ER SVMKMREP IHYGEXMSREP project that combines study and practice, books and life testimonies, science, management, craftsmanship, and traditional knowledge. These programs are GSQTPIQIRXIH F] WXYH] XVMT I\TIVMIRGIW XLEX EVI HIWMKRIH XS SǺIV HMVIGX contact with producers and companies in the agri-food industry, as well as ǻVWXLERHI\TIVMIRGIWSJZEVMSYWVIKMSRWERHXLIMVGYPXYVEPXVEHMXMSRWEVSYRH the globe.

The University is supported by over 130 companies in the agri-food sector, as well as institutions that support research activities and participate in the life of the University. These companies and institutions make up the Association of Friends and Strategic Partners Club of the University of Gastronomic Sciences.

The methodological and didactic approach of the University provides students with a holistic view of current and past food production systems, and allows them to learn how to develop models and alternative scenarios for the food systems of the future.

The University creates gastronomes, new professionals with knowledge and I\TIVXMWIMRQER]JSSHVIPEXIHǻIPHW,EWXVSRSQIW[SVOXSHIZIPSTQIXLSHW of food production, distribution, and consumption that will create a more sustainable future for the planet.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 9 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 10 10 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA www.unisg.it • The current programs are: ecological, communications, andmarketing points of view. IGSRSQMG WSGMEP GYPXYVEP JVSQ JSSH SJ TIVWTIGXMZI GSQTVILIRWMZI E SǺIV value anditsimportant role increating andshapingsociety. UNISG’s programs &XXLILIEVXSJ[LEXHIǻRIWEKEWXVSRSQIMWEHIITYRHIVWXERHMRKSJJSSHEWE • • • • • • • • Master of Gastronomy: World Food Cultures andMobility (ENG) Master of Gastronomy: Creativity, Ecology andEducation (ENG) Graduate Degree inFood Innovation &Management (ENG) Undergraduate Degree inGastronomic Sciences andCultures (ENG,ITA) Master inRaw MilkandCheese(ENG) Master in Agroecology andFood Sovereignty (ENG) Master in Wine Culture andCommunication (ENG) Master inFood Culture, Communication &Marketing (ENG) Master of Applied Gastronomy: Culinary Arts (ENG) 10/6/20 9:06AM ABOUT VIS ALBANIA 11

IS Albania is recognized as a non-governmental organization in Albania and is part of VIS – an international network present with development projects in about 50 countries from all continents. In the wake of increasing global awareness regarding the environment, VI\GITX JSV TVSNIGXW MR IHYGEXMSR ǻIPH :. MW FIMRK SVMIRXIH MRGVIEWMRKP] MR project dealing with biodiversity (South America) and rural development (Africa and the Balkans).

Its mission is to lead the Albanian society towards a conscious commitment, to make it an active part in decision making in order to improve their lives.

The NGO VIS (Volontariato Internazionale per lo Sviluppo) is present in Albania WMRGI[LIRXLIGSYRXV]ǻVWXSTIRIHXS[EVHWXLII\XIVREP[SVPHMRGIXLIR VIS strategy has been oriented to sustain the most disadvantaged, especially Albanian children and youth, creating opportunities of care, formal and informal education and vocational training. Actions have been continuously developing MRSVHIVXSVIEGLMREQSVIUYEPMǻIH[E]EKVIEXIVRYQFIVSJFIRIǻGMEVMIW

.XW ǻIPH SJ EGXMSRW VERKI JVSQ IHYGEXMSR ERH ZSGEXMSREP XVEMRMRK XS WSGMS economic development of rural communities, from the defence of children’s and youth rights and the promotion of woman’s dignity, to the preservation and conservation of environment and biodiversity.

Since 2009 VIS started a focus on a project in Northern Albania, where it played a pivotal role in fostering rural development in the most remote rural areas, SǺIVMRK MRRSZEXMZI TEVXMGMTEXMZI QSHIPW SJ EGXMSRW XLEX LEZI MRWTMVIH QER] across the whole country.

Since 2012, VIS Albania has played a major role in developing the Slow Food network in the country, and has since then work in tight cooperation with Slow Food to give the opportunity to rural populations to transform their rural unique traditions into clear opportunities for sustainable development.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 11 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 12

ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 12 T 2. 1. WHAT ARE THE CRITERIA FORSELECTING A PRODUCT? complex skillsandpractices passeddown through generations. of farmers’ andartisans’ knowledge that exists not in written recipes, butas breads, andsweets are alsodisappearing. These products are expressions because, together with plant and animal biodiversity, cheeses,cured meats, In additionto plant andanimal species,processed products board the Ark give value to theseresources inorder to supportlocal economies. material, or amuseumto exhibit traditional knowledge, butto rediscover and The overall objective isnot to create aseedbank,collection of genetic conservation andreproduction. as thecaseof endangered wild speciesat riskof extinction), promoting their them, telling their story, supportingtheir producers, and, in somecases(such take action to help protect themby seekingthemout,buyingandconsuming &WMERTVSHYGXGSYPHFIHMǽGYPXXSHIGMTLIVERHETTVIGMEXIJSVE*YVSTIER GSYPHFIHMǽGYPXXSYRHIVWXERHERHETTVIGMEXIJSVER&JVMGERXEWXIVNYWXEWER palate of thecommunityfrom which aproduct originates. A European product communities mustbeconsulted. Ultimately, itisfundamental to consider the E SJ UYEPMX] XLI NYHKI XS product, but nor is tasting. The origin of the product must be understood and WYǽGMIRX RSX EVI ÏŇĻƒåǄƒž× EREP]WIW ĮŇÏ±ĮƐ TL]WMGEP ĞĻƐ SV ÚåĀĻåÚƐ (LIQMGEP ±žƐ ŭƣ±ĮĞƒǅØƐ žåĻžŇŹǅƐ Ť±ŹƒĞÏƣĮ±ŹƐ ŇüƐ ÆåƐ ķƣžƒƐ {ŹŇÚƣÏƒžƐ traditional uses),or processed products. ƾĞĮÚƐžŤåÏĞåžƐŦŇĻĮǅƐĞüƐŹåĮ±ƒåÚƐƒŇƐžŤåÏĞĀÏƐƒåÏĚĻĞŭƣåžƐüŇŹƐÏŇĮĮåÏƒĞĻďØƐŤŹŇÏåžžĞĻďƐŇŹƐ Products can bedomesticspecies (local plant varieties andanimal breeds), THE ARK OF TASTE? draw attention to theriskof their extinction, andinvite everyone to The Ark was created to point outtheexistence of theseproducts, that are partof thecultures andtraditions of theentire world. he Ark of Taste isanonlinecatalogue of foods at riskof disappearing WHAT IS

10/6/20 9:06AM 3. Products must be connected to a territory and to the memory, identity, and ƒŹ±ÚĞƒĞŇĻ±ĮƐĮŇÏ±ĮƐīĻŇƾĮåÚďåƐŇüƐ±ƐÏŇķķƣĻĞƒǅ× The products that interest us are 13 strongly linked to their territory, not just in terms of climate and environment, but also in a cultural, historical, and physical context.

4. {ŹŇÚƣÏƒžƐ ķƣžƒƐ ÆåƐ ŤŹŇÚƣÏåÚƐ ĞĻƐ ĮĞķĞƒåÚƐ ŭƣ±ĻƒĞƒĞåž× The Ark of Taste is a catalogue of products, not producers. Therefore, it is not necessary to have ERI\EGXǻKYVISJXLIUYERXMX]TVSHYGIH HEXE[LMGLMWLS[IZIVIWWIRXMEP for establishing a Presidium), but it is important to at least identify an order of magnitude, to establish whether we are dealing with an artisanal or an industrial product.

5. {ŹŇÚƣÏƒžƐķƣžƒƐÆåƐ±ƒƐŹĞžīƐŇüƐåǄƒĞĻÏƒĞŇĻØƐwhether real (i.e. imminent) or potential (i.e. when the local social and environmental situations are such that a reduction in the quantity of the product or the number of producers can be predicted for the coming years).

HOW TO NOMINATE A PRODUCT

Anyone can nominate a product without being an expert, having particular skills, or being a Slow Food member. It is possible to nominate a product from your own area or from other communities or another country. You can RSQMREXIETVSHYGXF]ǻPPMRKSYXXLIWMQTPIJSVQEZEMPEFPISRXLIPS[+SSH Foundation for Biodiversity website.

The nomination form will be evaluated by the national/regional commissions, in countries where they exist. The Foundation website lists the countries in which a commission exists and the relevant contact information for getting in touch with local working groups. These two bodies – the local commissions and the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity – will verify that the nomination ǻXWXLIGVMXIVMEIWXEFPMWLIHJSVXLITVSNIGX8SHSWSXLIPS[+SSH+SYRHEXMSR GSPPEFSVEXIW [MXL EHZMWIVW JVSQ HMǺIVIRX GSYRXVMIW .J RSQMREXMSR JSVQW EVI incomplete, additional information will be requested from the nominator.

After approval, the next step is to include a brief description of the product in the online catalogue.

At the time of printing this publication, Slow Food members have entered 5,168 products from 148 countries into the Ark of Taste.

The project: www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/what-we-do/the-ark-of-taste/

Nomination form: https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/en/what-we-do/the-ark-of-taste/ nominations-from-around-the-world/nominate-a-product/

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ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 14 T Its objectives are: • • • • • • • to Kenya. 24 other countries, from The Netherlands to USA, andfrom Mexico he Alliance project started inItaly in2009and,sofar, hasspread to COOKS’ ALLIANCE THE SLOW FOOD and theactivities of the Terra Madre network. support to the Slow Food projects to protect biodiversity etc.) into concrete, everyday actions. To provide concrete and raw milkcheeses,to protect agricultural landscapes, Fish, againstfood waste andGMOs,infavor of biodiversity to translate Slow Food’s international campaigns(Slow consumption choices. to raise awareness aboutthe needto make sustainable knowledge. to promote local gastronomic traditions andartisanal closer to theSlow Food values. communities, bringing producers, chefs, andrestaurateurs to develop andstrengthen theSlow Food network inlocal JSSHTVSHYGIVWERHVEMWIXLIMVTVSǻPI to communicate aboutsmall-scale farms andartisanal scale, thusprotecting food biodiversity at riskof extinction. good, cleanandfair products madelocally onasmall to promote Presidia and Ark of Taste products, as well as solidarity) between chefs andfood producers. relationships (of work, collaboration, friendship,and to inspire thecreation andstrengthening of direct 10/6/20 9:06AM The participating chefs have diverse backgrounds and cooking styles, but they all share a commitment to protecting agricultural biodiversity and 15 safeguarding gastronomic heritage and local cultures. They always source quality ingredients (local, sustainable, and seasonal) and communicate the origin of their products and the names of the producers who supply them.

Chefs are playing a pivotal role in the rediscovery of Albanian rural cultural and agricultural traditions. Many young cooks – in the recent years - have mastered their skills abroad and then came back home to contribute to the gastronomic renaissance of this country. The Slow Food Cooks’ Alliance in Albania hosts some of the most visionary chefs who have dramatically contributed in reinventing and giving a new life to the Albanian gastronomic heritage. It is also thanks to them that today Albania hosts one of the most vibrant food scenes in the whole Balkans and in Europe.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 15 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 16 10/6/20 9:06 AM șȺȷȸȋȇȀ ȧȀȎȄȋȃȷȤȲ ȒȇȬȇȋȷȐȜȇȃ

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ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 18 T Tiranës olive alsogrows well inKrujaand throughout Durrës County. for olive trees, which are cultivated inmost villages intheregion. The bardhë i The climate and hilly topography of Tirana County provide optimal conditions poor soilsandnon-irrigated live groves. resistant to cold, and is well adapted to hilly terrain. It is suitable for planting in SHAPE 2.1-2.4 ASYMMETRICAL PALE W VARIETY HEN . O N.

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and particularly goodquality. This variety produces alot of fruit,is the olive trees. Itisknown for itshighoil yields (up to 28%by weight) olive variety from western Albania, where itaccounts for 60-70% of he RIPE HEY AND

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10/6/20 9:06AM 8LMWZEVMIX]ǼS[IVWEFYRHERXP]EVSYRHXLIXLMVH[IIOSJ2E]8LILEVZIWXXEOIW place between October and January and is done mostly by hand or with hand- held shakers. In traditional groves, it can take more than 300 hours to harvest a hectare. Most people harvest early to ensure high-quality oil with low acidity, complex aromatics, and high polyphenol content. 19

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Bardhë i Tiranës olives are made into oil and also cured as table olives, used MRWEPEHWǻWLGEWWIVSPIWERHSPMZIWTVIEHW8LIPIEZIWEVIYWIHXSQEOIE XMWERI[LMGLMWGSRWMHIVIHIǺIGXMZIJSVTVIZIRXMRKHMEFIXIWERHHMWIEWIEW- sociated with high blood pressure. VEGETABLES

Both men and women traditionally participate in the production of olive oil. During the last 20 years, with the increase of investments in modern olive oil mills, the AND

production cold pressed extra virgin olive oil has increased, and some producers in Tirana produce their oil from bardhë i Tiranës olives.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS

The cultivation of olives dates back millennia in Albania, and old trees are often found in close proximity to ancient and Medieval buildings—at the Petrelë and Prezë castles, both near Tirana, there are trees that range in age from 1,500 to 3,000 years.

The 14th-century Albanian national hero, Skanderbeg, was reputed to have encouraged young couples to plant olive trees before getting married. According to Albanian tradition, the mistreatment of olive trees will bring bad luck and if an olive tree was damaged while people were working the land, it was a sign that something bad would happen (war, an earthquake, etc.). This was one of the reasons that people built strong stone walls to protect olive trees.

Bardhë i Tiranës olives and other varieties from Tirana are of great importance for the livelihoods and welfare of the inhabitants of this region, where olives and olive oil have been central to the economy for centuries.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The bardhë i Tiranës olive variety is not currently at risk of extinction, although it should be noted that the trees are not always well maintained (activities such as pruning, working the soil around the tree trunk, and taking precautions to prevent disease are often not carried out) and many olive trees are misused or damaged by people who don’t know how to care for them properly.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 19 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 20 20 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T country (theplainliesat anelevation of 850 meters above sealevel). Local XIQTIVEXYVIǼYGXYEXMSRWERHMWKIRIVEPP]GSSPIVXLERXLI[IWXIVRTEVXSJXLI eastern Albania. This region hasatransitional Mediterranean climate with high TO EDIBLE TO GREEN

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of anagriculturally important plainnear thecity of Korçë insouth- name from thetown of Belortaja(or Belorta), which liesontheedge economic importance for those who grow it. This variety takes its he Belortajaleekisanheirloom variety with stabilized traits, andhas

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RA Y T I L A N O S A E S PRODUCTION ELORTAJA EBRUARY

W WNED S AND

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LEEKS

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10/6/20 9:06AM conditions are very suitable for the cultivation of leeks, and the local variety is ORS[RJSVMXWI\GIPPIRXǼEZSV+EVQIVWMR'IPSVXENEERHQER]SJXLIWYVVSYRHMRK villages still preserve the old seeds and sow them year after year. The seeds are TPERXIHMRXVE]WMRXLI[MRXIVERHXLIRXVERWTPERXIHMRXSXLIǻIPHWMRXLIWTVMRK

with 30-40 cm between the plants. Weeding is done by hand. Once harvested, 21 the leeks are stored in a cold place.

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

All parts of the Belortaja leek are edible except the roots. The leeks are used for fresh salads and cooked for casseroles or pies. They are also a main ingredient in various recipes ranging from pork and leek dishes cooked by Orthodox VEGETABLES

families, to pies and soups. Leek juice is often used by villagers to cure earaches.

One of the most important dishes is a traditional pie prepared with leek, minced AND meat and rice, named byrek me presh.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS

The Belortaja leek has long been recognized as a special variety due to its taste, and the town of Belortaja is known more for this product than for any other historical or cultural reason.

The villagers sell the seeds in the surrounding area and the leeks – sold on local markets - provide important economic returns for them, making their cultivation vital for local farmers.

Traditionally, Belortaja leeks have been used for medical purposes; farmers cooked the leeks with some fat to obtain a gel that they used to treat cough and earache.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The future of this crop is endangered because more and more farmers in the area are using new seeds from outside the territory that are considered more resistant to climate change. Also, the abandonment of the village by the youth poses a great risk to traditional small-scale agriculture in general.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 21 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 22

ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 22 K throughout Vlora County insouthwestern Albania. SPMZIZEVMIX]MW[IPPEHETXIHXSEVERKISJHMǺIVIRXGPMQEXIGSRHMXMSRWJSYRH F 86.4% HAVE AVERAGE SPHERICAL RUIT THE K

ALINJOTI A DIAMETER PULP

HIGH FRUITS BY N.

LENGTH

CATEGORY WEIGHT ACCOUNTS

27-28%. L A U S I V TO

OIL provides optimal conditions for the growth of olive trees. This climate with hot, dry summersandcool, wet winters. The climate where they originated. This area ischaracterized by aMediterranean alinjoti olives are calledalsotheKaninaolives, after the village

OLIVES

AND OVAL 3 IS

PERCENTAGE

IS . ABOUT

T 2.2 NUTS

SHAPE HESE

HAVE FOR CM 2 KALINJOTI OLIVE

OLIVES RY O S N E S . ABOUT

CM A T AND ,

HE OF .

(ULLIRI KALINJOT)

Y S I LYS A N A AN K FRESH Olea europaeaL. ALINJOTI

AROMA Y T I L A N O S A E S GREEN , MILD N HARVEST E T S A T

OVEMBER OF

OLIVES

GRASS FLAVOR

OIL

AND

- HAVE .

AND D

CUT ECEMBER

. K ANINË F IER G N I K O O C , , M V IBLE L B DI E LORA PICKLING PRODUCTION ALLAKASTËR M G N I V R E S E R P D N A ARIKAJ , S SALADS S Y A W ARANDË T I U R F

ARTS T R PA S E U Q I N H C E T S E V A E L , (T OILIVE , , L

TEAS IRANA F O , D USHNJË

AREA

ELVINË OIL D N A ) (F (V

IER LORA ); ); 10/6/20 9:06AM Kalinjoti trees are robust with an open crown and a vertical habit, and have many lateral branches and long, elliptical leaves. The produce an abundance SJǼS[IVWYWYEPP]FIKMRRMRKMRXLIXLMVH[IIOSJ2E]8LISPMZIWEVILEVZIWXIH mainly by hand or with hand-held shakers.

23 șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Because of its high percentages of both pulp and oil, the kalinjoti olive is considered a dual use variety, suitable for both table olives and oil. A popular dish called sallata e bregut (“coast salad”) is prepared with kalinjoti olives, oregano, and oranges. Locals also use olive wood extensively for kitchen wares, decorations, and religious accessories. Olive has been used for the VEGETABLES

treatment of skin diseases and throat infections, and for body massages – mixed with raki - in the case of pneumonia and lung deseases. Olive leaves

can be used to prepare a tisane, considered an excellent treatment for high AND

blood pressure.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS Vlorë County in general, and Kaninë village in particular, are historically associated with kalinjoti olive trees.

In Kaninë, each family had trees from which to source olives, oil, leaves, and wood. There is a close relationship between the location of castles or forts and the distribution of old olive trees, and there may well have been kalinjoti olive trees growing near the Kaninë Castle when it was built in the 3rd century BC.

Olive trees are considered sacred and a symbol of joy and victory. They were also important in christenings. It is said that the Albanian national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg, suggested to young couples that they plant an olive tree before getting married.

Kalinjoti olives are sold in markets in Albania, Kosovo, and Macedonia, and the oil is available in small amounts in more distant countries, including the UK, Switzerland, and the US.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Today, kalinjoti olive trees cover 51% of Albania’s 55,000 hectares of olive groves. The future of this variety is threatened by a lack of interest from younger generations and increasing rural-to-urban migration. The annual production of olive oil has declined sharply in the last years. Often, wood from older trees is overharvested to be used for decoration.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 23 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 24 24 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA K harvesting iscarriedout when 90%of thepodsare brown. VMTIR WIIHTSHW XLI between June andlate GPMQEXI August. The seedsdon’t all ripenat thesame time,and PSGEP XLI SR )ITIRHMRK GSRWMWXIRG] ǻRI E SJ as soonpossibleafter the winter and thesoil intheseedbedshouldbe TPS[IHXSFYV]XLIWXYFFPISJXLITVIZMSYWGVST8LIǻIPHQYWXFITVITEVIH Koçkulla are usually sown by handinMarch and April after the soil hasbeen ROUNDED T 5 HAVE T HEIR HE MM

SEEDS

COLOR AN ACROSS

SOW

SHAPE IRREGULAR CATEGORY TO

L A U S I V LEGUMES OF

Skrapar, Berat, and Belshinsouthern Albania. and grassy slopes,predominantly onsandy andacidsoils,throughout height of 30-120 cm.Itoccurs asa wild plant in meadows, pastures, oçkulla

RANGES YELLO

AND THE ; THEY

3 W GRASS

FLATTENED

FROM MM ARE L ATE (KOÇKULLA ESKRAPARIT)

THICK

also known asgrass pea,isanannual plant that grows to a

ABOUT RY O S N E S PEAS

M GRAY ARCH N. ,

. GRASS PEA

SKRAPAR - 4 A

Y S I LYS A N A PRIL W M Lupinus albusL. HEN ILD Y T I L A N O S A E S Y C N E T S I S N O C A

THAT FLOURY

FLAVOR COOKED E T S A T

TEXTURE

BEANS SIMILAR , THEY .

HAVE .

TO HARVEST

J UNE O - PAR A G N I K O O C UGUST IBLE L B DI E ( S PRODUCTION KRAPAR G N I V R E S E R P B BOILED ELSH S Y A W S D E E S DRYING

)

(E ARTS T R PA S E U Q I N H C E T AND , LBASAN BAKED

B F O

AREA ERAT

D N A ) (B ERAT

); 10/6/20 9:06AM Residents of the area use sickles for harvesting koçkulla. Once harvested, koçkulla are dried in wicker baskets. They are then stored in linen or cotton sucks in a cood, dark place. Ideally, they should be consumed within the year. In order to improve the quality of the plants and seeds, the best koçkulla are selected and stored for the following spring. Villagers in areas where koçkulla 25 are produced still preserve indigenous seeds from generation to generation.

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

The inhabitants of Skrapar boil koçkulla like beans or use them for thickening TMIǻPPMRKƴMRHIIHSRISJXLIQSWXJEQSYWVIGMTIWMR[LMGLOS±OYPPEMWXLI main ingredient is koçkulla pie. In this case, legumes are shredded and, after VEGETABLES

being cooked, turned into puree. Women generally prepare the pie. The layers of dough are toasted on cast-iron stoves or stones, which helps them to

VIQEMRGVMWT]EJXIVXLIFEOMRKTVSGIWWMWǻRMWLIH8LITMIMWFEOIHMRGSTTIVSV AND cast-iron pans covered with an iron lid. Flaming charcoal is placed on the lid to EPPS[IHXLITMIXSFIGSQIWSJXGVYRGL]ERHQSVIǼEZSVJYP

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS

Skrapar and Berat are neighboring districts in southern Albania where koçkulla MWTSTYPEVFYXSRP]MROVETEV]SYGERǻRHXLIJEQSYWTMI.RXLITEWXOS±OYPPE pie was served in a copper pan and was not split or cut with a knife; everyone WEXEVSYRHXLITERERHFVSOITMIGIWSǺF]LERK8LIXLYQFMRHI\ǻRKIVERH QMHHPIǻRKIV[IVIYWIHJSVGYXXMRKERHIEXMRKXLITMI

It is said that koçkulla were cooked as burek to feed home-building masters. When carpenters spent long days building or repairing homes, housewives cooked koçkulla pie to feed the workers and provide them the calories they needed. Still in Skrapar there is a song dedicated to koçkulla whose verses say, “Master Kalo constructs a house, for lunch and dinner eating koçkulla.”

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Koçkulla are always found in farmers’ markets in the area, and occasionally in markets outside of Skrapar, Berat, Belsh, and Përmet. Sometimes they are also found in local restaurant and shops in Përmet and Tirana. However, many Albanians still do not know about koçkulla and have no information about its nutritional value. Skrapar, the leading koçkulla producer, is an isolated and very underdeveloped city. As a consequence, most of the youth have emigrated to Tirana, putting the future of koçkulla (and especially the preservation and sharing of local seed) at risk.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 25 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 26 26 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA N. T low and hightemperatures andhasgoodresistance to diseases. November and remains until March or April. The Lekbibaj bean tolerates both of Lekbibaj andNikaj-Mërtur, have acool climate; thesnow usually arrives in 5 T KIDNEY HIS WEIGHING (FASULJA KACAVJERRESE ELEKBIBAJT)

VARIETY LEKBIBAJ CREEPING BEAN - SOW SHAPED CATEGORY L A U S I V LEGUMES from generation to generation. Tropoja, andespecially the villages cultivated for more than100 years. The seeds are saved and passed villages of Tropoja Districtinnorthern Albania, where ithasbeen he Lekbibaj creeping beanisalocal variety from themountain

ABOUT PRODUCES

BEANS 1 M GRAM ,

AY WHITE EACH RY O S N E S .

Y S I LYS A N A Phaseolus vulgarisL. S P Y T I L A N O S A E S Y C N E T S I S N O C OFT LEASANT S WEET . T QUICKLY E T S A T HEY

FLAVOR ,

BOIL SLIGHTLY .

VERY

HARVEST

(90 - 100 A UGUST G N I K O O C L EKBIBAJ T IBLE L B DI E ROPOJA DAYS PRODUCTION G N I V R E S E R P BOILED

AFTER

S Y A W AND D S D E E S DRYING

ARTS T R PA ISTRICT S E U Q I N H C E T N

, PLANTING BAKED IKAJ

F O

AREA (K -M

D N A UKËS ËRTUR )

) , 10/6/20 9:06AM 8LIWI FIERW EVI GYPXMZEXIH MR ǼEX EVIEW [LIVI XLI] GER FI MVVMKEXIH 8LI] prefer deep, rich soil. The beans are planted by hand among corn (usually one bean plant after every 3-4 corn plants). Harvest takes place 90-100 days after planting, and must be done by hand because beans wind around the corn stalks. Once they have dried, the beans are stored in linen sacks. 27

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Beans, along with corn and chestnuts, are one of the most important products of the area, and are an important source of protein. The main dish prepared with Lekbibaj beans is fasule ne vorbe, a stew cooked in a clay pot that hangs

JVSQERMVSRLSPHIVEFSZIXLIǻVI8LIFIERWEVIGSSOIHMR[EXIV[MXLHVMIH VEGETABLES meat (pastrami), and red pepper is added at the end. This is one of the most characteristic dishes of the region, and was traditionally cooked by both men AND

and women, who would sit by the hearth and stir it. Lekbibaj beans are also made into a thin soup which is eaten with rice pilaf.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS

The Lekbibaj creeping bean is one of the rarest Albanian cultivars with stabilized traits and economic value for growers. It has been of great importance to inhabitants of the area where it is grown and was used throughout the winter and a good meat substitute.

In village schools, teachers used beans as a teaching tool to explain arithmetic to elementary school students.

Locals would often exchange the beans for products, such as oil, that they did not produce themselves.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The cultivation of the Lekbibaj creeping bean is at risk due to the abandonment of the land and local, traditional agriculture—most young people have left Lekbibaj and Nikaj-Mërtur and moved to the cities where there are more opportunities and better living conditions.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 27 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 28 28 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA L X]TIW[MXLLMKLXIQTIVEXYVIǼYGXYEXMSRW8LMWGPMQEXIMWZIV]WYMXEFPIJSVXLI area anditsclimate hasfeatures of theMediterranean and continental climate fruit for thetableor to make marmaladeandcompote. Dibra isamountainous N. MEDIUM T DISTINCTIVE COMMON SLIGHTLY COLOR HE LONGITUDINAL L 6 UZNI

SIZE FRUITS AND

HARVEST OBLONG LONG VARIETIES proportion of cherry production inthearea and was mainly usedasa the Burlat andSummit varieties, thischerry accounted for alarge variety grown inDibra County, northeastern Albania. Along with uzni black cherry, named after the village of Luzni, is a late-season CATEGORY

BLACK L A U S I V ,

DARK SMALLER A

LUZNI BLACK CHERRY AND CHARACTERISTIC

STALK

LINE

CHERRY RED SHAPE

NUTS , . I AND

. THAN

TO T

AND

HAS BLACK HAS RY O S N E S

OF MORE ARRIVE F

A A LO A

WERING

THE

Y S I LYS A N A

WHEN STARTS

THIRD

THEY

Prunus aviumL. IN WEEK

Y T I L A N O S A E S Y C N E T S I S N O C T THE

S HAVE HE

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MIDDLE FLESH E T S A T

J TURNED UNE

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. OF WEET

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M HEY ALMOST AY .

ARE

AND

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THE

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FRUITS G N I K O O C P

IBLE L B DI E L

JEÇË UZNI PRODUCTION PRESERVES G N I V R E S E R P , M , G FRESH S Y A W AQELLARË T I U R F REVË DRYING

ARTS T R PA S E U Q I N H C E T , , B FRUIT

, F O JUICE EGJUNEC

AREA (D

D N A IBRA , )

10/6/20 9:06AM growth of cherries, and the Luzni cherry in particular acquires an extraordinary ǼEZSV HYI XS XLI TEVXMGYPEV GSRHMXMSRW SJ XLI EVIE 1Y^RM GLIVV] XVIIW EVI propogated by seed and preferably planted on sloping terrain. They produce consistently from year to year and require very few agronomic treatments. The fruit is mostly harvested by hand from ladders, though tree combs are also 29 used. The harvest is a family activity.

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Luzni black cherries are mainly consumed fresh, though it is also traditional to make juice and to dry the fruit for winter. One characteristic local product is black cherry compote: Cherries are carefully washed and their stalks are VEGETABLES

removed; they are then opened into two parts and the stone is removed. Thus prepared, the fruits are placed in a cooking bowl, and water, sugar, and a little

bit of lemon juice are added. The compote is cooked and simmered until it AND

thickens, and then stored in glass jars for the winter.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS

Local people are very attached to this cherry variety as it is not found in other areas of Albania, where the soil and climate conditions are not suitable for its cultivation. Luzni black cherry is closely tied to the local culture and traditions: One of the biggest spring celebrations in Dibra is the “Cherry Feast,” which occurs every year in one of the villages where Luzni cherry trees are particularly abundant. During the harvest season, children play and wear the cherries as if they were earrings. According to Albanian tradition, cherry compote is given to people who are sick with a cold or sore throat. Cherry stalks are also used for medicinal purposes: After being dried, they are used to make a tisane to heal abdominal cramps or treat diarrhea. During Communism, Luzni black cherries were exported abroad due to their highly regarded taste and appearance. Luzni cherry compote is mainly sold in Dibra region, but in recent years demand for this product has also grown in Tirana.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

4ZIVXLIPEWX]IEVWXLMWZEVMIX]LEWWYǺIVIHKVIEXHEQEKIHYIXSQEWWMZI PSKKMRKJSVTVSǻX2SVISZIVTPERXMRKERHGYPXMZEXMSRSJJSVIMKRZEVMIXMIWLEWPIH to a decrease in the number of Luzni black cherry trees. Young farmers prefer to plant newer varieties that require less attention and maintenance. Some farmers in Dibra still maintain the old Luzni trees, but few of them remain.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 29 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 30 30 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA M above sealevel. It is pollinated by insectsandtends to attract bees.Inaddition This herbgrows all over Albania, especially at elevations above 800meters throughout theMediterranean). LEAVES YELLO M SOFT OUNTAIN W

, TEA AND

FINE COVERED FLO SOW

AND CATEGORY

WERS TEA L A U S I V

STEMS PUBESCENCE

INFUSIONS HAS . I

IN , TS AND mainly prepared astisane(like many other speciesof Sideritis This plant isknown for itsuseasanherbal medicine,andis tea becauseit was traditionally gathered inthemountains. ountain tea (çaji imalitin Albanian) isalsoknown asshepherd’s

A SAGE N.

LEAVES LAYER THE U N

GREENISH SUALLY OVEMBER . -

GREEN RY O S N E S NORTHERNMOST 7

ARE

PLANTED

, OR MOUNTAIN TEA F Sideritis raeseri Boiss.&Heldr.

EBRUARY Y S I LYS A N A

EITHER (ÇAJI IMALIT)

PARTS

AROMA IN –M

OF M VERY O BEING Y T I L A N O S A E S ARCH

OUNTAIN A BOILING CTOBER LBANIA ,

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HAS INTO

AFTER .

A HARVEST

THE H ARVEST

PLANTS V G N I K O O C

LORA TAKES S R E W O L F IBLE L B DI E

ARE AND PRODUCTION , G G N I V R E S E R P

D N A PLACE IN K JIROKASTRA S Y A W HERBAL

FULL ORÇË DRYING

ARTS T R PA

S E U Q I N H C E T IN S M E T S

, BLOOM

COUNTIES

J S E V A E L TEA F O ULY

AREA , S

, . D N A W HKODRA HEN ,

, 10/6/20 9:06AM to growing wild, mountain tea is also cultivated from seed in household gardens. Many villagers prefer to cultivate mountain tea in lower areas than GSPPIGXMXMRXLIQSYRXEMRWEWXLIPEXXIVVIUYMVIWKVIEXIǺSVX8LITPERXWEVI harvested using a knife, and the roots should not be pulled. Men, women, and children all participate in the collection of mountain tea, which begins to 31 “ripen” in May and June. Once harvested, the plants are spread out to dry on tables or on cloths on the ground, preferably in a covered but well-ventilated dry place—direct sunlight is not good, so some villagers make tents with tree branches to keep the mountain tea shaded as it dries.

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ VEGETABLES

8LIǼS[IVWPIEZIWERHWXIQWSJSideritis raeseri are all used in making herbal tea. After cutting the dried plants into smaller sections, the mountain tea is

placed in boiling water, simmered for a few minutes, and covered with a lid AND until it is served. Honey and lemon can be added. Mountain tea aids digestion, WXVIRKXLIRWXLIMQQYRIW]WXIQERHMWERIǺIGXMZIXVIEXQIRXJSVGSQQSRGSPH ǼYERHSXLIVZMVYWIWEPPIVKMIWERHEWXLQEWMRYWGSRKIWXMSRERHIZIRQMPHTEMR

and anxiety. It is also consumed recreationally as a pleasant beverage. FRUITS

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Mountain tea is one of the most popular herbal teas in Albania. In addition to its curative properties, this tea has a wonderful aroma and is widely consumed SREHEMP]FEWMW=IEVWEKSQSYRXEMRXIE[EWSǺIVIHEWFVIEOJEWXEPSRK[MXL sliced bread and cheese in company and military canteens.

Mountain tea has been and continues to be an important source of income for many rural Albanians. Nowadays, it is mainly sold in farmers’ markets, although over the past 20 years the use of professional packaging has grown tremendously—several companies collect, package, and distribute cultivated mountain tea in supermarkets throughout the country, and some organic grocery stores buy it in bulk and package it.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The main threat to mountain tea is uncontrolled harvesting, often before the plants have reached an optimal stage of growth. Also, the plants are often harvested at their roots, which prevents them from regenerating the following season. This has drastically reduced the extent of wild populations in the QSYRXEMRW;LIRQSYRXEMRXIEMWRSXLEVZIWXIHEXXLIVMKLXXMQIMXWǼEZSVERH FIRIǻGMEPTVSTIVXMIWEVIVIHYGIH

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 31 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 32 32 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA P produces alot of budsandan abundance of high-quality grapes nomatter Pulëz isoften grown on arbors, andthe vines usedto begrown up trees. It 2IHMXIVVERIERGPMQEXI[MXLLMKLXIQTIVEXYVIǼYGXYEXMSRW Elbasan, Librazhd, Gramsh, and Mat. It grows best in areas with a transitional T GRAPES MEDIUM ROUND HE T SIZED HE WINE

GRAPE

LEAF ,

THEMSELVES SHORT ( AND HAS AND NOT

IS CATEGORY BUNCHES Skrapar, Përmet, Tepelena, andGjirokastra. Itcan alsobefound in farmers, mainly inthesouthernareas of thecountry, includingBerat, or landari. This grape hasbeenselected over centuries by Albanian ulëz is an old Albanian grape variety. It is also known as L A U S I V

MEDIUM FIVE GRAPE

GREENISH OF , AND

UNIFORM LOBES N.

ARE VARIETALS DENSE ARE - SIZED -

SMALL YELLO MEDIUM 8

. RY O S N E S SIZE

T AND HE W

TO ),

PULËZ GRAPE (RRUSHI PULËZ)

Y S I LYS A N A Vitis vinifera L. T Y T I L A N O S A E S AND REACH HE

GRAPES S E T S A T HARVEST WEET RIPENESS

THEIR

WHEN

ARE MAXIMUM EPTEMBER .

JUICY

THEY

G N I K O O C AND IBLE L B DI E DRYING PRODUCTION G G N I V R E S E R P JIROKASTRA S Y A W DISTILLING T I U R F ,

B FRESH

ARTS T R PA FERMENTING S E U Q I N H C E T ERAT

F O

COUNTIES AREA verdhëza

D N A ,

10/6/20 9:06AM what pruning system is used. This variety is less susceptible to powdery mildew disease than many other varieties. It can be planted in areas up to 700 meters above sea level. Weeding and harvesting is still done by hand.

Pulëz grapes ripen a bit later than other local grape varieties; it is usually harvested in early fall. Pulëz is usually intended for the production of white 33 table wines with high alcohol content. Families that grow this variety also use it as a table grape, but the fruit is not found for sale in produce shops.

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Winemakers use pulëz for the production of raki (a distilled spirit) as well as for

the production of wine and vinegar. Local communities also used this grape to VEGETABLES

dye bread during the winter, and for fruit juice. Pulëz grapes are also used for the preparation of medley grapes, which is usually served with nuts and bread. AND

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS The pulëz grape is closely tied to the rural communities around the above- mentioned cities. Celebrations and feasts linked to raki making and grape harvesting still take place in the countryside. Pulëz raki was often served at wedding parties, which were organized in September after the raki was produced. In recent years, many Albanian villages have begun to celebrate local feasts dedicated to their typical local produce. Several wineries organize a celebration of pulëz wine each September.

Pulëz vines are often grown beside oak trees, and the raki made from these grapes is known as raki e lisit or “oak raki.” The pressed grapes usually ferment for about 25 days.

With the revival of viticulture in the area, some wineries in around Berat and Përmet have started using pulëz to make table wine. Pulëz raki and wine are sold in small shops and supermarkets. The highest-quality products are sold through organic store chains created in recent years. Raki e lisit is mostly a household product.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The departure of young people from rural areas poses an obvious risk to the future of traditional farming and local varieties. Also, many areas that were planted with pulëz vines have been replaced with other cultivars, such as Merlot and Cabernet. Growing pulëz in new areas presents challenges, as the variety must adapt to new conditions.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 33 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 34 34 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T chestnut andcover more than 450hectares. Harvesting is donemanually, and relative harmony. The forests around Reç are composed almostexclusively of rise to unique habitats in which wildlife andchestnutproduction coexisted in the centuries, people have grafted, managed, and shaped the trees, giving EKVSJSVIWXWWMRGIXLIWIXVIIW[IVIǻVWXMRXVSHYGIHEXPIEWX]IEVWEKS4ZIV MEDIUM R EÇ FRUITS REDDISH

CHESTNUTS CATEGORY

L A U S I V SIZE karst landscapesof northern Albania) have supported chestnut 7I± SJ ZMPPEKI XLI WYVVSYRHMRK LMPPW where themildmicroclimate and fertile soils(which are rare inthe XLI EVIE WTIGMǻG ZIV] E XS he name“Reç chestnut” doesnot refer to aparticular variety, but N.

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AND COLOR

NUTS

ARE HAVE .

RY O S N E S A

REÇ CHESTNUT (GËSHTENJA EREÇIT )

Y S I LYS A N A Castanea sativaMill. Y T I L A N O S A E S HARVEST S EPTEMBER - N OVEMBER G N I K O O C IBLE L B DI E R PRODUCTION D EÇ G N I V R E S E R P ISTRICT BAKED , M S Y A W S D E E S DRYING ALËSI

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10/6/20 9:06AM there is no special technique for processing the chestnuts. Traditionally, the nuts were conserved by burying them in sand that local farmers got from Lake Shkodra, just a few kilometers from Reç. The local cooperative that collects chestnuts from across the region is planning to start drying the chestnuts and KVEHYEPP]MRXVSHYGITVSHYGXMSRSJGLIWXRYXǼSYVERHVIPEXIHTVSHYGXW 35

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Chestnut bread is a special dish cooked for local festivals (e.g. the chestnut festival in Reç, which takes place each year in the second half of October). Usually, the lady of the house and the young girls take care of chestnut bread preparation, while the men and boys take care of boiling and roasting. Chestnut VEGETABLES

honey is an important local product as well. AND

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Reç is a village in Malësi e Madhe, Albania’s northernmost district, in Shkodra County. It lies at the foot of the hills on the eastern side of the valley of the Prroni i Thatë river, just inside the Municipal Natural Park of Shkrel. Humans introduced FRUITS chestnuts to Albania’s mountainous northern regions centuries ago; because the area is not suited for grain cultivation, chestnuts are an important food crop. The trees also provide timber. Chestnuts may have been brought here by ethnic Albanians migrating from Kraja, a region on the Montenegrin side of Lake Shkodra that is known for its old chestnut groves.

Each family in Reç owns and manages at least a dozen chestnut trees. While XLIGSPPIGXMSRSJGLIWXRYXWMWEJEQMP]EǺEMVWXSVEKIERHWEPIWEVIQEREKIH by a cooperative that involves about 80 families in Reç, and others throughout the region.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Despite the success of the local cooperative and increased chestnut yields in recent years, the future of the local groves is far from certain: The forests EVIRSXEWIǺIGXMZIP]QEREKIHRS[EWXLI][IVIYRHIVGSQQYRMWQ [LMGL IRHIHMRXLIWERHPEXIP]XLIXVIIWLEZIWXEVXIHWYǺIVMRKJVSQEXXEGOW by insect larvae that consume the fruit. The only way to contain this problem is through heavy pruning and other interventions, which reduce productivity. The maintenance of the traditional chestnut agroforests is also at risk because rural populations are increasingly migrating to the cities. In addition, the Asian chestnut gall wasp (Dryocosmus kuriphilusLEWGEYWIHWMKRMǻGERXHEQEKIXS the trees in recent years.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 35 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 36 36 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA R but alsoingrasslands andpastures. Itisparticularly associated with areas northeastern, and southeastern Albania, mainly in hilly and mountainous areas SPICE R WITH ED USUALLY SMALL

, OREGANO

WILD REDDISH TEA

PURPLE

GRO

HERBS 30-45 AND CATEGORY L A U S I V REQIMWVIPEXIHXSXLIGSPSVSJMXWǼS[IVW.XKVS[WXLVSYKLSYXRSVXLIV mountainous regions. Red oregano isalocal, wild oregano whose of Origanum vulgare that grows inforests andmeadows in Albania’s igoni ikuq, which means“red oregano” in Albanian, refers to atype N.

, W IS - W

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10/6/20 9:06AM where rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and forests are present. Herders and villagers used to collect the oregano by hand during the summer in the pastures where their animals were grazing. Based on numerous domestic and foreign market demands, red oregano has also been cultivated in the Malësi e Madhe District. Cultivated red oregano is either sown outdoors in spring when the 37 WSMPXIQTIVEXYVIMWEXPIEWX( MRWXEVXIVGYFIWSVTPYKW[IIOWFIJSVIǻIPH planting; or indoors 6 weeks before the last frost.

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Red oregano is most often consumed as “mountain tea” (caji i bjeshkes) from autumn to spring. This tisane is made with the aerial parts of the plant VEGETABLES

PIEZIW WXIQW ERH ǼS[IVW [LMPI XLI VSSXW LEZI SXLIV YWIW 8[S SV XLVII WXIQWSJSVIKERS[MXLXLIPIEZIWERHǼS[IVWSVXEFPIWTSSRWSJWLVIHHIH

oregano, are boiled in water for 1 minute. The tisane is then strained and may AND

be sweetened with honey.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS

Even today, many locals go with their families to the mountains in summer to accompany their cattle. It is during this period that mountain teas are collected for winter use. In the past, red oregano was collected in bundles and hung to dry on the wooden rails of the houses. When harvested in large quantities for commercial purposes, the oregano was gathered into linen sacks and transported to collection points. Then it was dried in thatched tents. After drying, the oregano was stored in batches, ready to be sold. It was the main winter drink in the homes of Albanians in the northern part of the country. Thanks to healing properties such as boosting immunity, locals gave the tisane to their children to make their bones strong.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

7IHSVIKERSMWIRHERKIVIHF]XLIMRXVSHYGXMSRSJKIRIXMGEPP]QSHMǻIHSVIKERS varieties and seeds. Also, the low prices for mountain tea in local markets de- incentivize the collection and cultivation of this herb in the mountains. At the same time, the oregano grown on larger plantations does not fetch a high price because it is considered to be of inferior quality compared to the oregano from the mountains.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 37 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 38 38 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA S zi harvest is usually carriedoutentirely by hand due to the rough, steep terrain, Around Ndroq andinother partsof Albania where Sheshibardhë isplanted, N. AND SKIN GOLDEN ( MEDIUM zi meaning“black”). T ( MEDIUM HIS

SOMETIMES

11 WINE ROUND GRAPES TO

VARIETY

PULP YELLO

- AND SIZED - , its place of origin.Itislikely acolor mutation of thered variety Sheshi This variety’s namederives from itscolor (bardhë means“white”) and in theformer municipality of Ndroq, a few kilometers west of Tirana. hesh ibardhë isanold white grape variety from thehillsaround Shesh SIZED

CATEGORY WITH

ARE L A U S I V RATIO WISH

SHESH IBARDHË GRAPE GRAPE

TENDING PRODUCES ,

BRIGHT WITH

CLUSTERS A ), .

RELATIVELY T

MEDIUM VARIETIES HE

FIVE

TO GREEN LEAVES (RRUSHI SHESH IBARDHË)

DENSE W . LOBES RY O S N E S - T ARD SIZED HE

HIGH

ARE

, . ,

Y S I LYS A N A T TO QUITE PRODUCED HE TEND

YELLO S

Vitis vinifera L. GRAPES LIGHTLY Y T I L A N O S A E S Y C N E T S I S N O C

AND AROMATIC TO WISH

HAVE

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E ARE

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COLOR

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OF DEEP NOTES THIS WITH WEET

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. G N I K O O C IBLE L B DI E FERMENTING PRODUCTION G N I V R E S E R P FRUIT RA S HESH S Y A W W , T I U R F

BEVERAGES

PRESERVES ARTS T R PA (T S E U Q I N H C E T , DISTILLING IRANA

F O

AREA

) D N A ,

10/6/20 9:06AM [LMGLQEOIWQIGLERM^EXMSRHMǽGYPX-ERHLEVZIWXMRKEPPS[WJSVKVIEXIVGSRXVSP and careful grape selection. The bunches are collected in wooden or plastic containers and then transported quickly by truck or tractor to the cellars.

39 șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Wine was produced in state-owned wineries in Albania for many years; private wineries began to open mostly after the 1990s. In addition to being made into wine, Shesh i bardhë grapes are eaten as fresh fruit and used to produce raki (the local brandy). Vinegar and grape juice are also important products. During the grape harvest season, in August-September, women traditionally produce

a grape jam by boiling grapes with sugar; the seeds are removed and the pulp VEGETABLES is slowly cooked. Once ready, the jam is stored in glass containers. It is used during the winter for the morning meal. Bread with butter and grape jam is a AND

great meal for children.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ FRUITS Shesh i bardhë has historically been a very important variety in Tirana and Durrës counties. Though viticulture is an ancient activity in Albania, it only FIKERXSXEOISǺGSQQIVGMEPP]HYVMRKXLIW MRXLIJSPPS[MRKHIGEHIW local varieties such as Shesh i bardhë and Shesh i zi began to be planted in other regions of Albania, in places with a variety of soils and climate conditions. However, after the 1990s, there was a sharp decline in traditional viticulture as people migrated away from rural areas. The only grape product that continued to be produced in the villages during this period was raki and, unlike wine production, raki production remained an artisanal, household activity. Indeed, raki is a cricual component of socialization, especially among groups of men, who often drink it with meze (appetizers) like fresh cheese, boiled eggs, raw onion, meatballs, and pickles and sing “raki songs.” It is always served to guests and at special occasions such as weddings, births, parties, and funerals.

Today, Shesh i bardhë is made into wine and raki across Albania, mainly in Tirana County. These products are available in local shops and in cities. Some producers have started growing this variety biodynamically.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Although wine production has undergone a revitalization in recent years, the village of Shesh, where the Shesh i bardhë variety originated, is almost deserted, and local farmers have no access to basic agricultural services.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 39 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 40 40 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA S table wine production, butisalsoeaten asfresh fruit. it to produce anabundance of high-quality fruit.Sheshiziismainly usedfor to 400-500 meters a.s.l. It prefers deep, loamy, calcareous soils, which allow BLACK LONG T ROUND T MODERATELY HIS HE WINE

AND LEAVES

CLUSTERS VARIETY IN ,

AND

MEDIUM COLOR

XIVVERIERGPMQEXIERHLMKLXIQTIVEXYVIǼYGXYEXMSRWEXIPIZEXMSRWYT to various pruningpractices. Itgrows inareas with atransitional Medi- SZIVXLIGSYRXV]MW[IPPEHETXIHXSHMǺIVIRXPERHWGETIWERHMWWYMXIH hesh i zi originates from Shesh village near Tirana, butisplanted all HAVE CATEGORY N. L A U S I V

ARE GRAPE

PRODUCES DENSE

. , FIVE - T

AND MEDIUM SIZED HE 12

VARIETIES

LOBES , GRAPES

GLAUCOUS MEDIUM , BLUE

- LARGE SIZED . RY O S N E S SHESH IZIGRAPE

ARE TO -

. (RRUSHI SHESH IZI)

Y S I LYS A N A CONTENT FULL THEY AROMA ARE RELATIVELY APPLE T Vitis vinifera L. P HIS Y T I L A N O S A E S LEASANT - L

RENO

BODIED ATE OFFER

, VARIETY

AFTERTASTE . S AND OF

S E T S A T HARVEST WNED

HESHI

EPTEMBER FOREST

HIGH

LONG

UNRIPE IN WINES

PRODUCES

TANNINS FOR

I ALCOHOL

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. FRUITS

WITH

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TO WINES

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COUNTIES

D N A ,

10/6/20 9:06AM șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Sheshi i zi grapes are eaten fresh and made into wine, vinegar, jams and juices,

and raki: Red wine vinegar is used in cooking and as a seasoning, grape jam is 41 a popular breakfast food during the winter, and raki is a popular drink to share with guests, friends, and family, especially for important occasions. According to tradition, men were primarily engaged in the production of raki and wine, while women were involved in the preparation of grape juice and jam.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ VEGETABLES This grape variety is closely linked to the rural communities of Tirana. In recent years, local festivals tied to the production of raki have been revived, and the AND

village of Shesh hosts an annual wine celebration during the grape harvest.

8LSYKLZMXMGYPXYVI MW ER ERGMIRX EGXMZMX] MR&PFERME MX SRP] FIKER XS XEOI SǺ commercially during the 1960s. However, after the 1990s, there was a sharp

decline in traditional viticulture as people migrated away from rural areas. FRUITS The only grape product that continued to be produced in the villages during this period was raki and, unlike wine production, raki production remained an artisanal, household activity. Indeed, raki is a cricual component of socialization, and is always served to guests and at special occasions such as weddings, births, parties, and funerals.

Shesh i zi grapes can be found for sale as table grapes in some farmers’ markets, but normally this variety is intended for wine production. This variety is often used for artisanal wine production, and Shesh i zi wines are sold at local markets or small organic shops, as well as in stores in the cities.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Many villages in Tirana County have been depopulated over the last 30 years as communities have moved to the capital or migrated abroad. The village of Shesh has almost been deserted and local vineyards and grape varieties such as Shesh i zi need attention and revival.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 41 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 42 42 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T Librazhd are richinhumus, which favors thegrowth of thiscrop. Depending RELATIVELY THIN T

HE SKIN TO N. S

SOW YELLO TEBLEVA

AND

VEGETABLES CATEGORY A L A U S I V

This variety requires humid,deepsoil andlots of sun. The landsof some neighboringareas of Dibra County. meters a.s.l.throughout Librazhd DistrictinElbasanCounty, andin he Stebleva potato isalocal variety generally cultivated above 800 13 LARGE

WISH VERY

POTATO

VARIETY

MOIST FLESH M STEBLEVA POTATO ARCH

IS .

RY O S N E S WHITE

WITH A

-M (PATATJA ESTEBLEVE)

Y S I LYS A N A Solanum tuberosumL. Y T I L A N O S A E S Y C N E T S I S N O C F S LOURY LIGHTLY E T S A T

TEXTURE

S WEET . . HARVEST 4 MONTHS G N I K O O C S

TEBLEVA IBLE L B DI E AFTER PRODUCTION FRIED BOILED

SO , L (E R E B U T W

IBRAZHD LBASAN

, ARTS T R PA ING S E U Q I N H C E T ROASTED , BAKED

) AREA D

, D N A ISTRICT

10/6/20 9:06AM on the weather, local farmers plant the potatoes in March, April, or May. Harvesting is done about 4 months after sowing, with new potatoes being HYKYTEFSYX[IIOWEJXIVXLITPERXWǼS[IV8LI]EVIXLIRWXSVIHMRHEVO ventilated rooms.

43 șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Stebleva potatoes are usually boiled, fried, or baked. They are a very important vegetable in the local cuisine and are used in casseroles (particularly those made with lamb or goat meat), purees, meatballs, and bread. They are also delicious roasted and then covered with butter and fresh cheese. VEGETABLES

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ AND

Albanian people have used potatoes as a staple food for centuries, along with corn. They are especially important during the winter.

'IGEYWIMXMWUYMXIEǼSYV]ZEVMIX]XLIXIFPIZETSXEXSGERFIYWIHXSQEOI FVIEH MRXLITEWX[LIRXLIVI[EWRSXIRSYKL[LIEXǼSYVQEWLIHTSXEXSIW FRUITS were added to supplement bread dough. The recipe for the preparation of this bread has been lost, but people still remember that it was once an important element of the local gastronomy.

Stebleve potatoes are relatively high yielding and resistant, which has made this variety popular throughout the country and brought recognition to the town of Stebleva. Every year in October, the village of Stebleva hosts a potato celebration.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The biggest problem facing the Stebleva potato is competition from improved varieties. During the last 15 years, many foreign potatoes entered the Albanian market and sellers often prefer them, which means that farmers are forced to sell their Stebleva potatoes at lower prices or just throw them away. Each year, the production of this variety further decreases.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 43 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 44 44 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA V for 5-7 days. collected only by hand. The grape clusters undergo spontaneous fermentation The harvest beginsinthesecond half of September0 andthegrape clusters are REDDISH T V HE WINE ROUNDED CLUSTERS SIZED A LOSH

GRAPES ROUND

AND

, PURPLE PRODUCES MODERATELY CATEGORY L A U S I V

. WITH

GRAPE OR ARE T HE southern andcentral partsof thecountry. County, andto alesser extent inFier County andother areas inthe Lagoon insouthwestern Albania. Itisgrown primarily in Vlora losh isared grape variety that likely originated around theNarta

OVAL IN N.

DARK LEAVES FIVE

COLOR

VARIETIES AVERAGE

SHAPE

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LOBES 14 PINK

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. TO -

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(RRUSH VLOSH) Y S I LYS A N A BRO A FRUITY T QUITE S GRAPES RELATIVELY HE

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G N I K O O C P IBLE L B DI E RIMARILY PRODUCTION ALSO G N I V R E S E R P FERMENTING S Y A W F T I U R F

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10/6/20 9:06AM șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

This variety is used almost exclusively for wine production (sometimes it is

eaten as a table grape). 45

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Wine production in Albania has always been considered men’s work. Women were not traditionally involved in making alcoholic beverages, and were not supposed to consume alcohol. In contemporary Albanian society, women do

drink alcohol, but their involvement in wine production is limited or non-existent. VEGETABLES

Vlosh wine is the main alcoholic beverage of the area around Narta Lagoon.

4XLIVMQTSVXERXPSGEPTVSHYGXWMRGPYHIVEOMERHZEVMSYWPEKSSRǻWLMRGPYHMRK AND eels. The local winemaking tradition is centuries old and many people in the region produced their wine at home. Vine growers and winemakers from Narta took their experience and expertise to other regions of Albania, such

as Shkodra and Durrës. The population of Narta is predominantly Orthodox FRUITS (LVMWXMERERH[MRIǻKYVIWTVSQMRIRXP]MRFSXLVIPMKMSYWERHWIGYPEVJIWXMZEPW and celebrations. Vlosh wine was traditionally present on all the local tables. It is often paired with sea bass casseroles or roasted eels.

Vlosh wine is sold at typical local stores, or through direct sales. It is not typically aged.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

After the 1960s, the hills of many villages in Vlora (e.g. Babice, Akerni, Trevllaz- er, Cekodhima) were planted with olive trees to increase oil production, and the adjacent Vlosh vineyards were often shaded out, leading to a decline in in the production of Vlosh grapes and wine. Currently, just two wineries in the city of Vlora produce Vlosh wines. Small quantities are produced in some other counties, such as Berat.

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Anuncios_ENG.indd 6 18/08/2020 20:59 ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 47 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 48 48 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA B EVIWYVVSYRHIHF]FYWLIWERHFIHYRMGEǼS[IVWXSJEGMPMXEXILEVZIWXMRK8LI N. HAND OF THE MOVING W B OODEN EES

CATEGORY

DIFFERENT 15 SUMMER area of Frasheri andHotova National Park. Inthisregion, beehives XLIWIǼS[IVWEVI[MHIWTVIEHMRQSYRXEMREVIEWTEVXMGYPEVP]MRXLI FIHYRMGELSRI]MWEQSRSǼSVEPLSRI]JVSQWSYXLIVR&PFERME[LIVI edunica

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); 10/6/20 9:06AM honey is mainly produced by the Carniolan honey bee (Apis mellifera carnica), a subspecies of the Western honey bee, characterized by a dark brown-gray body with light brown stripes. Bedunica honey is considered a late-season LSRI] 8LIǼS[IVWWXEVXFPSSQMRKMRQMH&YKYWXERHLSRI]GSPPIGXMSRFIKMRW in October. Bedunica honey has a yellow to greenish color, especially freshly 49 LEVZIWXIHERHEZIV]WXVSRKǼEZSV

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ HONEY Bedunica honey is used both as food and for medical purposes. It is used to treat liver and kidney infections and is considered a panacea for children. According to local traditional knowledge, bedunica honey can also be used to cure or prevent catarrh in the lungs. This is why it is often served to children, and it is generally consumed in wintertime, with a spoonful of honey being add to caj malit, the local mountain herbal tea.

Very few families in the area of Frasher, and village of Gostivisht in the Bredhi i Hotovës Dangëlli National Park produce this honey, as most of the bedunica ǼS[IVWEVIJSYRHMRQSYRXEMRSYWEVIEWXLEXEVIHMǽGYPXXSEGGIWW'IMRKEPEXI season honey, it is usually kept within the household for family consumption, and only seldom found on the market.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Since very few families produce bedunica honey, there is a high risk that the traditional knowledge regarding its production will be lost. Young people are EFERHSRMRKXLIGSYRXV]ERHǻRHRSIGSRSQMGMRXIVIWXMRTVSHYGMRKMX1EGO of marketing at local and national levels and the almost complete absence of state incentives for beekeepers have a negative impact on small-scale beekeeping. It is also noteworthy that locals claim that Carniolan honey bees are much better than the recently-imported Italian bees at harvesting nectar JVSQFIHYRMGEǼS[IVW)IWTMXIXLIWIHMǽGYPXMIWXLMWTVSHYGXGSYPHFIGVYGMEP JSVXLIPSGEPIGSRSQ]WMRGIMXMWZIV]VEVIERHLEWMQTSVXERXLIEPXLFIRIǻXW and thus fetches a high price.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 49 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 50 50 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA S produces fruitsthat resemble strawberries (or lychees) dueto their red color is native to theMediterranean Basin. This evergreen shrubor small tree N. 16 from the nectar of MR5µVQIX)MWXVMGXWSYXLIVR&PFERME.XMWEQSRSǼSVEPLSRI]TVSHYGIH Albanian, isatypical product from the villages of Carvova andPagri trawberry tree honey or arbutus honey, known asmjalte maret in A COLLECTED GATHERED AROUND B CATEGORY EEKEEPING FTER HONEY

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10/6/20 9:06AM and distinctive texture. The tree is visually attractive because of its brightly GSPSVIHJVYMX XLI]VMTIRJVSQ]IPPS[XLVSYKLǼEQISVERKIXSHIITVIHMXW GPYWXIVWSJXMR]FIPPWLETIH[LMXIǼS[IVMXWKPSWW]HEVOKVIIRPIEZIWERHMXW peeling, reddish-brown bark. The fruits are round with a diameter of about 2 cm, and are covered with tiny rigid tubercles. 51 XVE[FIVV]XVIILSRI]LEWEZIV]HMWXMRGXFMXXIVW[IIXERHWPMKLXP]WSYVǼEZSVERH beige color, characteristics that make it easily distinguishable from other honeys. HONEY ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

The residents of Carvova and Pagri still rely heavily on wild resources. Mjalte maret is one of these, and it has been produced for generations in this part of Albania. This honey has powerful antioxidant and antibacterial properties and is often used medicinally, for example to treat burns and wounds. Small quantities are available for sale in local markets, though much of the harvest is kept for personal use.

Honey is an important part of rural culture and traditional knowledge, both practically and symbolically. It is considered a sacred product due to its healing and curative properties. Mjalt maret in particular is regarded as more than just a food due to its numerous applications.

Honey and other bee products are highly valued and are therefore an important source of income for rural families, even if beekeeping is not their primary activity. Honey is either sold or bartered.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Përmet is one of the few areas of Albania in which the strawberry tree is widespread in the local forests (Skrapar, a bit further north, is another). Rural to urban migration as a consequence of poverty and lack of infrastructure has reduced the number of local beekeepers and the market for mjalte maret.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 51 10/6/20 9:06 AM UNISG LIFE @UNISG_OFFICIAL

#unisg #unisglife #slowfood

Anuncios_ENG.inddADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 7 52 18/08/202010/6/20 9:06 20:59 AM UNISG LIFE @UNISG_OFFICIAL

#unisg #unisglife #slowfood

șȺȷȸȋȇȀ ȣȇȷȋȷȤȲȧȄȃȺ

Anuncios_ENG.indd 7 18/08/2020 20:59 ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 53 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 54 54 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T bardhë e Dukagjinit (“Dukagjini bardhë (“Dukagjini white sheep”), eDukagjinit thisbreed iscompletely white. It especially well suited to sheep andgoat pastoralism. Italso known asdelja e varied terrain, andpresence of alpinepastures make Tropoja Districtare XLI8VSTSNEERH-EWHMWXVMGXWSJ0YOµW(SYRX]8LIWMKRMǻGERXIPIZEXMSRLMKLP] S T C U D O R P M O R F N. ANIMAL W B A INTER ARDHOKA UGUST BREEDS CATEGORY MEAT Kosovo andinneighboring partsof northeastern Albania, particularly raised for milk,meat, and wool. Itisfound region intheDukagjini of completely white (bardhe means white in Albanian language). Itis he bardhoka sheepowes itsnameto itscolor, asthisbreed is

17 E H T

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AND MILK

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AS . W . ALBANIA SMOKING T

. . SHEPHERDS ROPOJA MONTENEGRO F O DRYING E OMEN ACH PRODUCTION

G N I V R E S E R P -

KOSOVO , , S Y A W , ARE FAMILY HAS CHEESEMAKING FERMENTING .

( INVOLVED

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), - 10/6/20 9:06AM has relatively loose, straight wool that grows to 20 cm long. It has a short, wide LIEH[MXLEWXVEMKLXTVSǻPI*[IWLEZIWQEPPLSVRW[LMPIVEQWLEZITVSRSYRGIH strong, spiraled horns. The forehead is woolly and there is a tuft of wool between the ears. Ewes weigh about 45 kg, and rams about 60 kg. The birth weight of the lambs varies from 2.5 to 3 kg; they have usually reached a weight of 15 kg by the 55 time they stop suckling.

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ FISH

Bardhoka milk is used to produce cheese, yogurt, gjiza, and butter (in this part AND

of Albania, butter and lard have traditionally been the main kinds of fat used to QEOIHMWLIWWYGLEWF]VIOERHǼM+VIWLFYXXIVMWSJXIRGPEVMǻIHF]QIPXMRKMX and removing the white foam that forms on top during boiling, in order to make MEAT it more shelf stable. Bardhoka sheep meat can be dried and stored in cool places; it can also be smoked. It is traditionally served with beans, cabbage, and other vegetables.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Together with goats, sheep were traditionally the main source of livelihood for mountain dwellers in Dukagjini and Kukës. There are many folk songs that speak of bardhoka sheep, sung by the rhapsodists of these regions and accompanied by a musical instrument called cifteli or lahute. Ram’s horns [IVIYWIHXSQEOIORMJILERHPIWSVTPEGIHSRXLIJIRGISVHSSVXS[EVHSǺ the evil eye. Its meat and dairy products are still consumed at local level, by they are rarely sold to processing facilities.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The bardhoka sheep has existed for centuries in Kosovo and Albania. It has often been cross-bred with other breeds, so there is a high risk that the FEVHLSOEƶW WTIGMǻG GLEVEGXIVMWXMGW [MPP FI PSWX EW QSVI JSVIMKR FVIIHW EVI introduced, especially since some of these breeds can lamb twice a year. Indeed, many shepherds have shifted their focus away from local breeds because they don’t yield as much milk and meet as improved imported breeds. In addition, the migration of young people from the mountains to the cities and lowlands threatens the future of mountain pastoralism, including the associated knowledge and traditional breeds.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 55 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 56 56 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA S the spine.Because thisspecieslives and hunts indeep water, ithas large eyes. weighing half akilo.Itissilvery gray with a white belly andsomeblackspots near G N I H S I F F FISH EBRUARY EVIPEXMZIP]WQEPPǻWLYWYEPP]RSXQSVIXLERGQPSRKERHX]TMGEPP] oldest lakes andisknown for itscrystal-clear waters. The belushka is North Macedonia (where itis called almo ohridanusisendemicto theLake Ohridbasinof Albania and CATEGORY

AND

Y T I L A N O S A E S

-O N. SEAFOOD CTOBER BELUSHKA FISH

S T C U D O R P M O R F

WHOLE (PESHKU BELUSHKE)

E H T

FISH Salmo ohridanusSteindachner

ARTS T R PA D E V I R E D L A M I N A , EGGS THE SEASON FISHING FISHING MOSTLY SHORE T HE

D E S U

LAKE INHABITANTS

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ISHING O

G N I S S E C O R P OF

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OGRADEC , FOR

G N I H S I F

FISH ARE FARMED DURING

ROASTED F O BELUSHKA

WITH

SPA FRIED FROM

WNING

G N I K O O C IN THE S Y A W

AND SMALL ,

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, SEASON

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AND PONDS

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10/6/20 9:06AM șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Belushka is part of the traditional cuisine of Pogradec, where it is typically fried, roasted, or put in casseroles. One of the most popular casseroles is be- 57 lushka tava8SQEOIXLMWHMWLXLIǻWLMWGSZIVIH[MXLǼSYVERHJVMIHMRETER together with a sauce of onions, carrots, and tomatoes. Then the pan is put MRXLISZIRERHXLIǻWLMWGSZIVIH[MXLXSQEXSWPMGIW.XMWFEOIHJSVEFSYX

minutes. Belushka eggs are also eaten, simply fried in oil. FISH

AND

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Along with koran (Ohrid trout, Salmo letnica), the belushka is the most MEAT important trout of Lake Ohrid, which is also home to eels, carp, and other species. Residents of both the Albanian and Northern Macedonian shores of the lake have caught and eaten these two species for centuries, and belushka ERHOSVEREVIGIRXVEPXSXLIPMZIPMLSSHWSJǻWLMRKGSQQYRMXMIW

'IPYWLOEǻWLMRKLEWEP[E]WFIIRVIKYPEXIHF]PE[)YVMRKXLI]IEVWSJXLI (SQQYRMWXVIKMQIXLI5SKVEHIGǻWLMRKIRXIVTVMWI[EWXEWOIH[MXLQSRMXSVMRK XLIǻWLWXSGOMRKSJXLIPEOI&JXIVXLIWMPPIKEPǻWLMRKMRGVIEWIHMRGPYHMRK during the spawning season. In the 2000s, regulations were tightened and QSVIǻWLIVW[IVIVIKMWXIVIHSVMRGSVTSVEXIHMRXSǻWLMRKGSSTIVEXMZIW

'IPYWLOEMWWSPHMREPPXLIǻWLWLSTWMR5SKVEHIGERHMWEPWSQEVOIXIHMR8MVERE and other cities of Albania.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

+SVXLITEWX]IEVWYRGSRXVSPPIHǻWLMRKLEWHVEWXMGEPP]VIHYGIHXLIWXSGOWSJ FIPYWLOE&GSQFMREXMSRSJSZIVǻWLMRKTSEGLMRKERHTSSVGSRWIVZEXMSRLEW VIWYPXIH MR XLMW WTIGMIW FIMRK GPEWWMǻIH EWZYPRIVEFPI 'IPYWLOE ǻWL FVIIHW [MXLHMǽGYPX]&PEGOSJQSRMXSVMRKERHKIRIVEPP]TSSVQEREKIQIRXTSPMGMIW together with increasing water pollution, has led to the decline of many species in the lake, and warming temperatures are exacerbating eutrophication.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 57 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 58 58 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T February-March. of age. Breeding takes place inSeptember-October, andthekidsare bornin YWYEPP]PMZIJSV]IEVWERHEVIQEXIHJSVXLIǻVWXXMQIEXEFSYXQSRXLW S T C U D O R P M O R F ANIMAL THEY SUMMERS EXTENSIVE GOATS RESOURCES AT THEY HARSH T HESE

BREEDS CATEGORY EXPLOITING N. MEAT

70 cmtall and70-76 cmlong. The headis20-24 cmlong. They District. Dragobia goats are black with curved horns. They are about it is found mainly in Dragobia (after which it was named), in Tropoja he Dragobia goat isatraditional breed from northeastern Albania; ARE LIVE E H T

HUSBANDRY ANIMALS WEATHER ARE

, RESISTANT

FREE AND DRAGOBIA GOAT MILK

PRODUCTION

D E V I R E D

L A M I N A AVAILABLE

STABLES

REARED

A ON

WIDE ARE AND

THE

VERY

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SYSTEMS

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EXTENSIVE

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AND

, ARTS T R PA

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QUALITY ADAPTED WHILE THE T

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10/6/20 9:06AM Dragobia goats are reared both for meat and milk production. Fresh meat is obtained mainly from kids aged 2-4 months, but also from adult animals. Meat from kids is produced mainly in May–June, while meat from adult animals is used throughout the year, primarily for the production of dried meat.

59 șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

The most classic way of cooking Dragobia goat meat is with a sac, a traditional

pot covered with a domed lid on which charcoal is placed. This technique FISH

makes the meat very tasty and soft. Pastërma is a salt-cured product obtained

from the meat of sheep and goats: After being cleaned, large chunks of meat AND are salted for about 2 weeks and then hung to dry in the air. Before being consumed, pastërma is washed to remove the salt and then boiled. Dragobia

goat meat is also processed as mish i thatë (“dried meat”). For this, the animal MEAT is butchered, its meat is cut into strips, the strips are salted and then wrapped in goat skin for 24-36 hours so that they can absorb the salt, and then they are hung on a wooden rack and smoked. Finally, they are dried for 10-15 days. The product can be stored for up to 2 years.

Dragobia goats also produces high-quality milk, which is used for the TVSHYGXMSRSJHMǺIVIRXWX]PIWSJGLIIWI8LIGLIIWIMWIMXLIVGSRWYQIHJVIWL or aged for winter consumption.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Dragobia goats are linked to the mountainous area of Tropoja District. This breed is the result of a long selection process by farmers over the generations. All parts of the Dragobia goat are important, from the horns (which the herders either use as a symbol against the evil eye, placed on the main door of the house or at the gate of the surrounding fence) to the skin (which was generally YWIHEWETEHJSVWMXXMRKRIEVXLIǻVITPEGI

For generations, this goat has been the main source of food for the residents of Tropoja, and is vital to the local economy. Dragobia goat meat and by- products are mainly used within the household or sold at local farmers’ QEVOIXWIWTIGMEPP]SREXYVHE]W,SEXWOMRMWEPWSEWSYVGISJTVSǻX

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Local goat breeds face competition from French and Spanish alpine goats. Because they yield less milk than foreign breeds, Dragobia goats and many other traditional Albanian breeds are at risk of extinction. Even the practice of raising goats in the mountains is at risk, as young people are abandoning the region.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 59 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 60 60 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA K XLIWTMRIERHMXWJIEXLIVWEVIVIHHMWL[LMPIXLISXLIVǻRWEVIWMPZIV G N I H S I F S T C U D O R P WHOLE M O R F FISH M ARCH CATEGORY

AND FISH

white belly. Ithasblackandsometimes red spots, especially near 60 cmanda weight of 1-3 kg. Ithasadarksilver back andsilver- Albania andNorth Macedonia. This speciesgrows to alengthof 30- oran isendemicto Lake OhridandtheBlack DrinRiver basinof E H T

- Y T I L A N O S A E S

, SEAFOOD N N. FILLET

OVEMBER D E V I R E D L A M I N A

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OHRID TROUT

(PESHKU KORAN) ARTS T R PA Salmo letnicaKaraman FISHPONDS THE CLOSED UNLICENSED DONE MOSTLY SHORE T HE FRIED

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ON AKE ALSO SMALL , EBRUARY N SMOKING

O AS C THE

FARMED HRID OUNTY

AND KORAN AY NETS

, W THOUGH

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IN IS

10/6/20 9:06AM 8LMWǻWLFIGSQIWWI\YEPP]QEXYVIEXEVSYRHXLIEKISJERHW[MQWYTXLI streams that run into the lake in January and February to spawn. Koran feed on EUYEXMGLIVFW[SVQWERHWQEPPǻWL

61 șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Koran is consumed in several ways, including deep fried in vegetable oil, grilled, roasted, and in casseroles. In the last few years, with the introduction FISH

of some international methods and techniques by Albanian chefs, people have EPWS WXEVXIH WQSOMRK XLMW ǻWL 4RI SJ XLI QSWX TSTYPEV VIGMTIW MR XLI EVIE AND

is koran and walnut tava8LMWSPHVIGMTIMWTVITEVIH[MXLǼSYVKEVPMGRYXW pepper, and sometimes the addition of a little wine. It is generally cooked WPS[P]MREGSTTIVGEWWIVSPITERSZIVE[SSHǻVI0SVERIKKWEVIEPWSIEXIR usually fried and added to salads. MEAT

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Koran is found only in Lake Ohrid, which is one of the world’s oldest lakes and is known for its crystal-clear water (transparent up to depths over 20 meters). 8LI4LVMHXVSYXLMKLP]TVM^IHF]ǻWLIVQIRERHKSYVQIXWEPMOI[EWMHIRXMǻIH as a unique species in 1924.

The harvest of this species has always been regulated by law. During the 45 ]IEVWSJXLI(SQQYRMWXVIKMQIXLI5SKVEHIGǻWLMRKIRXIVTVMWI[EWXEWOIH [MXL QSRMXSVMRK XLI ǻWL WXSGOMRK SJ XLI PEOI&JXIV XLI W MPPIKEP ǻWLMRK increased, including during the spawning season. In the 2000s, regulations [IVIXMKLXIRIHERHQSVIǻWLIVW[IVIVIKMWXIVIHSVMRGSVTSVEXIHMRXSǻWLMRK cooperatives.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

+SV XLI TEWX ]IEVW YRGSRXVSPPIH ǻWLMRK LEW HVEWXMGEPP] VIHYGIH XLI TSTYPEXMSR SJ 4LVMH XVSYX 8LI GSQFMREXMSR SJ SZIVǻWLMRK TSEGLMRK ERH poor conservation has pushed this species to the brink of extinction. A lack of monitoring and generally poor management policies, together with increasing [EXIVTSPPYXMSRLEWPIHXSXLIHIGPMRISJQER]WTIGMIWMRXLIPEOI8LIǻWLMRK association in Pogradec is trying to recover the population of koran by raising XLIǻWLMRFVIIHMRKJEGMPMXMIWERHXLIRVIPIEWMRKXLIǻRKIVPMRKWMRXSXLIPEOI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 61 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 62 62 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA L years, but ittakes 3 years for themto become areproductive adult. The lake fast, reaching alengthof 11cmin4-5 months anda weight of 1.5kg injust2 N. G N I H S I F 21 C EXCEPT S T C U D O R P WHOLE M O R F ARP THROUGHOUT SEASON FISH

THROUGH FISHING

CATEGORY 2E][LIRXLI[EXIVXIQTIVEXYVII\GIIHWs(8LIǻWLKVS[UYMXI HSVWEPǻR.XPE]WMXWIKKW GEPPIH KSPHXSGSTTIVVIH8LMWǻWLLEWEVIPEXMZIP]PEVKILIEHERHEZIV]PSRK ake Shkodra carphasagenerally yellowish color butcan vary from

DURING

AND FISH

E H T

Y T I L A N O S A E S FROM LAKE SHKODRA CARP

, SEAFOOD FILLET

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M THE D E V I R E D THE L A M I N A M

ARCH , CLOSED YEAR .

EGGS PLACE

ARTS T R PA F MORE SHORE SEINES TO ATTACHED OF ( Cyprinus carpioL. A ISHING FRIED

LBURNUS D E S U SEASON DIFFERENT

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G N I K O O C

S Y A W THE F 70% , D N A

L TYPICALLY ISHING SCORANZA TARGET AKE

MESH LAKE

S OF G N I S S E C O R P

ROASTED HKODRA

. ikra) indenseaquatic vegetation in

GEAR SIZES SPECIES THE

T EMPLOYED OGETHER ) G N I H S I F

TOTAL IN

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BEACH BLEAK

10/6/20 9:06AM LEWWIZIVEPLEFMXEXWXLEXEVIMQTSVXERXJSVǻWLMRXLIMVHMǺIVIRXHIZIPSTQIRXEP stages. The northern shores of the lake are important spawning and nursery grounds for carp.

63 șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

Lake Shkodra carp is consumed in several way: deep fried in vegetable oil, KVMPPIHVSEWXIH[MXLHVMIHJVYMXWIXG8STVIWIVZIXLIǻWLMXGERFIWQSOIHERH FISH

then marinated in oil with garlic and herbs. One of the most distinctive dishes is HV]WQSOIHGEVT[LMGLMWTVITEVIHF]GLSTTMRKXLIWQSOIHǻWLMRXSGLYROW

and soaked it in a mixture of oil, white wine, lemon, onion, garlic, bay leaves, AND

and herbs. Tavë krapi is another unique dish in which the carp is cooked with ZIKIXEFPIWERHHVMIHTPYQWXSKMZIMXERMGIWSJXǼEZSV8LIQM\XYVIMWXLIR

WMQQIVIHSRPS[LIEXJSVLSYVW(EVTǻWLIKKWEVIEPWS[MHIP]YWIHMRXLI MEAT local cuisine, normally fried in oil.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Lake Shkodra is the largest freshwater basin in Southern Europe. Fishing has always been one of the main occupations of the local population, and the PSGEPGYMWMRIVIǼIGXWXLMW&PPEPSRKXLIWSYXLIVRWLSVISJXLI1EOIXLIVIEVI VIQEMRWSJQER]WQEPPǻWLIVWIXXPIQIRXW[LIVITISTPI[SYPHKEXLIVXSǻWL GSPPIGXMZIP]QEREKIFMKGEXGLIWERHTVIWIVZIXLIǻWLF]WEPXMRKERHHV]MRK

8LIVI EVI JEQMPMIW[MXL KIRIVEXMSRW SJ ǻWLIVQIR[LS WXMPP QEOI XLIMV PMZMRK JVSQ[LEXXLI]GEXGLMRXLIPEOIERH[LSEVITVSYHSJXLMWXVEHMXMSR8LI]ǻWL MRXLIXVEHMXMSREPQERRIVYWMRKWQEPP[SSHIRFSEXWSJEWTIGMǻGWLETIERH GEXGLMRKXLIǻWL[MXLKMPPRIXW[LMGLVIUYMVIKVIEXWOMPPERHORS[PIHKIXSYWI IǺIGXMZIP]8LIQSWXGSQQSRP]GEYKLXǻWLEVIGEVTFPIEOERHIIPFYXWSQI other species are also caught and valued.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

4RXLI&PFERMERWLSVIWSJ1EOILOSHVEǻWLMRKMWERMQTSVXERXEGXMZMX]JSVPSGEP GSQQYRMXMIWIWTIGMEPP]MRXLIZMPPEKIWSJLMVSOE>SKENERH0STPMO4ǽGMEPHEXE shows that there are 210 boats used by 410 people operating in the Albanian part of the lake. A lack of monitoring and poor management policies, together with increasing water pollution, have led to the overexploitation and degradation of the lake’s resources. No reliable data are available on catches in the Albanian waters of Lake Skadar, though it is estimated that approximately 500 tonnes of ǻWLEVIGEYKLXIEGL]IEV[LMGLMW[IPPEFSZIWYWXEMREFMPMX]XLVIWLSPHW

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 63 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 64 64 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T trout, andtheonly population in Albania). Itisknown as“thetrout with red G N I H S I F FISH J N. CATEGORY

UNE AND the CemRiver meet (thisisthesouthernmostpopulation of Adriatic Grabom, andbetween Vukël and Tamara, where thetwo branches of Cemit, isfound inthelower partof Kelmend, between Fushë Lojë and he Cem wild trout or Adriatic trout known in Albanian astrofta e

Y T I L A N O S A E S -

22 SEAFOOD A CEM WILD TROUT UGUST

(TROFTA EEGËR ECEMIT) S T C U D O R P M O R F WHOLE

E H T ARTS T R PA

Salmo obtusirostrisHeckel

FISH D E V I R E D L A M I N A W TIED MADE T HE ORMS

D E S U

W FISH

OF ITH

ARE

ASH

ARE IRON D N A

USED

W TRADITIONALLY

W ITH

EIGHTS AS G N I S S E C O R P

LURES

PLASTIC G N I H S I F

TO BAKED .

ASSIST F O

CAUGHT LINE ,

FRIED G N I K O O C S Y A W

. IN S D O H T E M A

THE LONG , W ROASTED ITH

CASTING

THE A

K VERY

ELMEND LINE PRODUCTION D .

H ISTRICT LONG , OOKS SMALL , M

( ALËSI FISHING

BAITED S

KNOTS HKODRA

E AREA M

ROD ADHE ARE ITH )

10/6/20 9:06AM points” (ƒŹŇüƒ±ƐķåƐŤĞī±ƐƒåƐīƣŭå) for its peculiar characteristic of having its entire FSH]GSZIVIHF]WQEPPVIHHSXWERHKVIIRMWLFVS[RWLEHMRK8LMWǻWLZEVMIWMR length from 10 cm up to a maximum of 50 cm. It breeds during the winter and MWYWYEPP]ǻWLIHFIX[IIR/YRIERH&YKYWX

șȎȜȄȤȷȀȚȎȃȇȃ

This variety of trout is broadly known throughout the Shkodra region, and has FISH

become popular among tourists and visitors to Kelmend, particularly if it is prepared as tavë peshku ǻWLGEWWIVSPIEVIGMTIMR[LMGLXLIXVSYXMWFEOIH AND

in the oven together with onions, peppers, and potatoes. The other main ways of cooking the wild trout are on the grill, served with vegetables and cheese; or fried. MEAT

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Kelmend is located in the mountainous northern part of Albania, in Malësi e Madhe District, on the border with Montenegro. In this region, trout dishes are an important part of the local gastronomic culture and wild trout are recognized for being sweeter tasting than farm-raised trout. Kelmend is a Catholic area, and trout is traditionally often consumed during Lent, and especially on Ash Wednesday and Good Friday. Due to the popularity of this ǻWL[MXLFSXLPSGEPWERHXSYVMWXWǻWLMRKLEWERMQTSVXERXIGSRSQMGVSPIMR the region. However, in the last 15 years, after the fall of the strict state control SZIVREXYVEPVIWSYVGIWI\TPSMXEXMZIERHIRZMVSRQIRXEPP]YRWYWXEMREFPIǻWLMRK practices have developed in the region, including the use of dynamite and electricity. Besides the fact that these practices are very unsafe for those who use them, the explosions are causing damage to the natural habitat where the XVSYXVITVSHYGIWSQIXMQIWEPWSOMPPMRKXLINYZIRMPIǻWL

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

In recent years, there has been a reduction in the number of trouts in Kelmend HYI XS YRWYWXEMREFPI ǻWLMRK QIXLSHW WYGL EW OMPPMRK ǻWL XLEX LEZI RSX yet reached reproductive age. It is critical to raise awareness about how to sustainably manage the Cem River’s resources.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 65 10/6/20 9:06 AM STUDY TRIPS AROUND THE WORLD! ţ_o|o Ѵ;omou--oѴ-ķ&"-Ѵlmb

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® Photo Andrea Longobardo, UNISG student

® Photo Michal Levit, UNISG alumni

® Photo Aarón Gómez Figueroa, UNISG alumni

unisg.it @ UNISG #XQLVJBRIƓFLDO

Anuncios_ENG.indd 8 18/08/2020 20:59 ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 66 10/6/20 9:06 AM STUDY TRIPS AROUND THE WORLD! ţ_o|o Ѵ;omou--oѴ-ķ&"-Ѵlmb

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® Photo Michal Levit, UNISG alumni

® Photo Aarón Gómez Figueroa, UNISG alumni

unisg.it @ UNISG #XQLVJBRIƓFLDO

Anuncios_ENG.indd 8 18/08/2020 20:59 ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 67 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 68 68 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA R fruits are white, green, or pale yellow when unripe. In most species, the fruits DISTILLED S T N E I D E R G N I M (M ULBERRY CATEGORY BEVERAGES (RAKIA EMANIT TË BOBOSHTICËS) ORUS height andgrows wild around Korçë, insoutheastern Albania. The fruits of themulberry tree. This tree rarely exceeds 10–15 meters in of various fruits. The local variation from Boboshtica ismade with the aki is a traditional distilled beverage made from the fermented juice

AND N.

SPP FRUITS FERMENTED MULBERRY RAKI .) 23

BOBOSHTICA THE FINAL W TRADITIONAL LLATION FERMENTED MENT FRUITS T HE ATER

YOUNGER MULBERRY

FOR PRODUCT

, TO

WHICH IN

OBTAIN UP

MUST COPPER

AND GENERATION TO

ARE IS TREES 7

A IS POURED THE

N O I T A R A P E R P DAYS

THEN

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ARE PROCESS ,

PLACED USUALLY

THROUGH INTO GENTLY DISTILLED

. FINAL

RECYCLED T IS

HE IN

OUTSIDE SLO SHAKEN

THIS LARGE

STRENGTH EQUIPMENT TWICE W .

PROCESS

T GLASS

HE W IN TO

D O H T E M USING OODEN

SPIRIT

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DISCONTINUOUS

VATS

ORDER IS PRODUCTION

FOR

CUT

. THE AIR

RENOVË B T AND 45%

HE OBOSHTICA

DISTILLATION .

(K TO WITH FULLY T

ELDERS ORÇË

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A OBTAINED DISTILLED

B RIPENED TO ) ORÇË

V DISTI

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10/6/20 9:06AM XYVR TMRO ERH XLIR VIH[LMPI VMTIRMRK ERH ǻREPP] XYVR HEVO TYVTPI SV FPEGO The leaves are alternately arranged, simple, serrated, and often lobed. The inhabitants of Boboshtica, Drenovë, and Korçë have a custom of collecting mulberries and using them for the preparation of a unique local variant of raki that has a light green color, a delicate aroma of mulberries and herbs, and a 69 WPMKLXP]EGMHMGǼEZSV

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Korçë is not far from the borders with Greece and Macedonia. This area, which is

known as one of the driest regions of Albania, is characterized by a transitional PRODUCTS Mediterranean climate. Here, the villages of Boboshtica and Drenovë have a long tradition of mulberry production, and the majority of the fruit is transformed into raki inside people’s homes. It is consumed for special occasions.

8LIUYERXMXMIWEVIPMQMXIHERH'SFSWLXMGEQYPFIVV]VEOMMWSJXIRRSXIEW]XSǻRH for sale. Locals sell it on the informal market because producers don’t have the

legal tools to produce it as an artisanal product to be sold in the local markets. PROCESSED

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Boboshtica mulberry is still known today thanks to the communities that TVSHYGIMXJSVWTIGMEPSGGEWMSRW8LIXVEHMXMSRMWHMǽGYPXXSXVERWQMXSVEPP]SVMR writing, and must therefore be learned through practice.

A change in the law would mean that local small-scale producers could legally switch their production from homemade to artisanal and sell it in local markets, [LMGL[SYPHQEOIEWMKRMǻGERXGSRXVMFYXMSRXSXLIJSVXYRIWERHPMZIPMLSSHWSJ locals in the three villages where mulberry raki is traditionally produced.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 69 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 70 70 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA R plum. This tree or large shrubis typically 6-7 meters tall andhassmooth ovate N. DISTILLED S T N E I D E R G N I C 24 HERRY CATEGORY BEVERAGES the cherry plumtree (Prunuscerasifera ), alsoknown asmyrobalan The fruitsusedto prepare thisrare version of raki are gathered from communities of theShala valley inShkodra Country, northern Albania. akia eshalës isatypical distilledbeverage from the mountain

AND

PLUM

FERMENTED

FRUITS CHERRY PLUM RAKI

(RAKIA ESHALËS) JUGS APPRECIATED OR WITH NEXT FOR R IPE

TWICE

PHASE CHERRY OR

TRADITIONAL MINIMUM

EVEN ( TW

FLAVOR O

PLUMS PLASTIC

THE OF DISTILLATIONS

2 N O I T A R A P E R P

IMPLEMENTS PRODUCTION

). ARE WEEKS

BOTTLES T HE

HARVESTED

FINAL IN

YIELDS . . BARRELS

R PROCESS

PRODUCT AKIA

IN A

MORE E MADE S

SHALËS EPTEMBER IS D O H T E M

CAN

DISTILLATION

REFINED FROM

BE CAN

SYCAMORE D STORED PRODUCTION AND

UKAGJIN SPIRIT BE

(

, HALA THEN DISTILLED S WHICH

HKODRA IN WITH

W HIGHLANDS VALLEY FERMENTED BIG OOD

IS A

GLASS AREA ) ONCE MORE DONE . , T HE

10/6/20 9:06AM PIEZIWXLEXEVIGQPSRK8LIǼS[IVW[LMGLSTIRMR+IFVYEV]2EVGLEVI white or pale pink. The fruits, which look like over-sized cherries, are sour and green when unripe, and become sweet and red as they mature. The raki made JVSQGLIVV]TPYQWLEWEHIPMGEXIGLIVV]PMOIEVSQEERHTPYQPMOIǼEZSV

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Cherry plum raki is linked exclusively to the Shala community, one of Albania’s historical tribes. Throughout the four centuries of Ottoman Turkish presence in Albania, the Shala were never completely dominated, and have retained their PRODUCTS

unique culture and language. Raki was originally made as a way to preserve various fruits; today, the drink appears to serve primarily as a social lubricant, and is consumed whenever people congregate or socialize. It would be GSRWMHIVIHWLEQIJYPRSXXSSǺIVWSQIOMRHSJVEOMXSKYIWXW)YVMRK[IHHMRK GIVIQSRMIWXLIKVSSQƶWJEXLIVKSIWEVSYRHXSEPPXLIXEFPIWERHSǺIVWEKPEWW of raki to the guests. Rakia e shalës, like many other versions of raki, is also

consumed for medicinal purposes, mostly to relieve pain. Cherry plum raki is PROCESSED not sold commercially; it is produced at the household level to be shared with family and friends.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Many people, especially the youth, are leaving the isolated villages of the Shala valley and moving to the cities. As a result, the local distilled beverages and other typical products, as well as the traditional knowledge linked to their production, are in danger of disappearing. Making these products better known can help to ensure that there is continued interest in producing them and in transmitting the production techniques to future generations.

NOMINATOR: ANDREA PIERONI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 71 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 72

ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 72 C VMTIRMR&YKYWXERHLEZIEHEVOVYF]GSPSVERHEVEXLIVEGMHMGǼEZSV appear inFebruary-March, are golden-yellow and very fragrant. The fruits N. DISTILLED 25 S T N E I D E R G N I C ORNELIAN ( C CATEGORY BEVERAGES ORNUS

J FY IIW RGR MI SGRYMW8I SIW[LMGL ǼS[IVW 8LI GIRXYVMIW JSV PMZI GER ERH QIXIVW EFSYX SJ which occurs both wild andincultivation, usually grows to aheight areaknown asthanaintheDukagjin of northern Albania. This tree, ornelian cherry (Cornusmas,alsoknown ascornel or dogwood) is AND

FERMENTED CHERRY MAS CORNELIAN CHERRY )

(RAKI THANE) T FERMENT HAVE USED AS METHANOL DISTILLATION THE DISTILLATION THE 30%. I T HE

THE RAKI

FERMENTATION QUANTITY FRUITS

STORED AT TO T

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ARE W ,

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10/6/20 9:06AM The distilled beverage made from wild cornelian cherries is called raki thane; MXLEWETVSRSYRGIHGVYWLIHJVYMXǼEZSVERHEVSQE

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ 73

This product is typical of the Catholic populations from the mountains of northern Albania, particularly the Shala tribe.

Raki thane is linked to the Shala community, one of Albania’s historical tribe, who have lived in the valley of the Shala River since at least the 15th century. The Shala tribe is primarily Catholic, like other northern Albanian tribes. PRODUCTS

Homemade raki thane, perhaps more so than other kinds of raki, is closely associated with special occasions, when it is shared with family and friends. It is also considered medicinal and is taken to treat rheumatism or rubbed onto the skin to alleviate insect bites. Cornelian cherries also eaten raw to relieve intestinal troubles in children. PROCESSED șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The production of raki thane needs attention because the few people who still live in the isolated Shala valley are mostly elderly, the youth (who traditionally collected the wild fruit) having migrated to the cities for more opportunities. There is a risk that production could cease if the tradition cannot be passed to the next generation.

NOMINATOR: ANDREA PIERONI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 73 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 74

ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 74 T EWSJXXI\XYVIREXYVEPKVIIRGSPSVLSRI]PMOIǼEZSVERHTPIEWERXEVSQE N. S T N E I D E R G N I FRUIT 26 CATEGORY ǻKWSJXLI olives, cherries,andchestnuts) and grapevines. In addition, dried Mediterranean climate andthearea isrichinfruittrees (mainly he village of Roshnik, inBerat County, ischaracterized by a

FIGS PRESERVES (FIQTË E THATË TË ROSHNIKUT) ROSHNIK DRY FIGS

sarilos variety are regarded asalocal delicacy. They have PACKED LARGE DURING AND IS ACCORDING GREENHOUSE T HE

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10/6/20 9:06AM 8LILEVZIWXXEOIWTPEGIFIX[IIR&YKYWXERHITXIQFIV8LIǻKWVMTIRERH start to dry on the tree (losing about half of their moisture content), and then drop spontaneously to the ground. Fallen fruit are collected 2-3 times a week and brought to a suitable area for drying. The drying process is carried out on wooden drying trays called lesa for about one week, until the water content 75 drops to 22-24%.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

7SWLRMOWEVMPSWǻKMWEZIV]SPHZEVMIX]XLSYKLXXSLEZIEVVMZIHMRXLIVIKMSR years ago from Izmir and adapted to the fertile ground in the village of Roshnik, PRODUCTS

EJXIV[LMGLXLIǻKW[IVIREQIH'IVEX(SYRX]ERH7SWLRMOMRTEVXMGYPEVLEWE strong association with this product. Figs were traditionally hung on strings in groups of 52, one for each week of the year.

)VMIHǻKWTPE]IHERMQTSVXERXVSPIMRXLI[MRXIVHMIXERHÆƣīêĀīå ǻKFVIEH[EW KMZIRXSGLMPHVIR[LIR[LIEX[EWYREZEMPEFPI8SHE]ǻKWEVIIEXIRFSXLJVIWL

ERHHVMIHSVTVSGIWWIHMRXSNEQW8LIPIEZIWEVIYWIHXS[VETXLIǻKFVIEH PROCESSED

8LI ǻK LEVZIWX MW XMIH XS XLI PSGEP GYPXYVI [MXL WIZIVEP GIPIFVEXMSRW FIMRK organized for the occasion, including the annual “Roshnik Feast” and the harvest festival in Berat.

)YVMRK XLI (SQQYRMWX IVE XLI TVSHYGXMSR ERH I\TSVX SJ HVMIH ǻKW [EW E lucrative and important economic activity. Today, only a few families produce HVMIH ǻKW YWMRK XLI XVEHMXMSREP TVSGIWWMRK XIGLRMUYIW ERH XLI TVSHYGX MW mainly sold locally or kept for household consumption.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

7SWLRMO HV] ǻKW EVI E WXETPI TVSHYGX JSV XLI PSGEP IGSRSQ]8LI XVEHMXMSREP drying method has historical value but is very much at risk of being forgotten because the villages of the area have been abandoned for many years. The few remaining people who know the old method are mostly elderly.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 75 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 76

ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 76 T W FERMENTED S T N E I D E R G N I HITE C DISTILLED ORN CATEGORY

OR EFKW.ME PY] YH LX EISXI SSSXI VE[ XLI SJ GSPSV XLI SR XEOIW QEXIVMEPJSVQ[LMGLMXƶWQEHIERHMWREXYVEPP]IǺIVZIWGIRXXLEROW XLEX ǼYMH GPSYH] E MW .X GEFFEKIW northeastern Albania, produced by fermenting white and red he juice madefrom fermented cabbage isatraditional drinkfrom L

S EMON

OR RED ALT

BEVERAGES

BARLEY

CABBAGE AND

CABBAGE JUICE N.

27 (LËNGU IRASOJIT) FERMENTED L LEMONS BARLEY BE W SOAKED OF REMOVED MEDIUM OF N M ËNGU ATER O ANY

SALT BEECH W STORED ADAYS

, YEARS I

. T OR

WRAPPED FOR T , RASOJIT HE

OR HE AND

, SMALL

IN 24

MIXTURE

IT CABBAGES

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, THEN

ARE

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WHICH

THE

FERMENT

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REMOTE

OODEN ,

STALK BARRELS ADD SUCH

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AREAS AS AS CORN

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BASEMENT OF ADDED IS COB ,

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WHICH

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10/6/20 9:06AM to fermentation process. Lëngu i rasojit has a high concentration of vitamin C; it is considered a good treatment for prostate disease and can also be used to clean the kidneys.

Together with dry meat, lëngu i rasojit has long been an important food for shepherds and women working the land or in the household. Fermented 77 cabbages can be consumed as sauerkraut, grated and marinated with olive oil and lemon juice and served with various dishes.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ PRODUCTS

In the rural villages of northern Albania, where access to public health services is still somewhat limited, people use natural remedies to maintain their health. Fermented cabbage juice is used as a treatment for several diseases.

Lëngu i rasojit is linked particularly to Tropoja, in Kukës County. Here, it was generally drunk after meals to aid digestion. It was traditionally prepared

by women and stored in containers made of oak. The juice was produced PROCESSED throughout the winter, when cold temperatures allow for a stable fermentation, and consumed into the spring and summer.

In Tropoja and other villages near the border with Kosovo, it is still considered a healing drink and a good source of probiotics: It is taken to reduce gastric EGMHMX]ǻKLXYPGIVWERHVIPMIZIVLIYQEXMWQERHYVMREV]XVEGXMRJIGXMSRW

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Very few families in Albania still make lëngu i rasojit, though Albanians in Kosovo still produce it at the household level. In recent times they have also started to produce it on a larger scale by adapting the traditional recipe.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 77 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 78 78 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA L and northeastof Albania. Itsmainingredient istheroot of Gentiana lutea, the S T N E I D E R G N I TEA ( G G

ENTIANA ENTIAN AND CATEGORY gastritis, andto boostimmunity. The drink is very popular inthenorth centuries to prevent various diseases,suchasliver diseaseand that peoplefrom themountainous areas of Albania have usedfor ëng sanza (literally “gentian juice”) isatraditional herbal decoction W

N. ATER INFUSIONS

ROOTS

LUTEA 28 )

GENTIAN TEA (LËNG SANZE) A AND W A THE BITTER AND T

O ATER MEDICINE CONCENTRATED

PREPARE

TISANE LEFT BOILED

, AT THE

CLOSED ROOM ,

FOR COMMUNITIES LËNG DECOCTION IN

CLEANSING

TEMPERATURE

ATER FOR SANZA JUICE N O I T A R A P E R P

ALMOST FOR

, IS FROM

DRIED FROM

APPROXIMATELY THE USUALLY 7

AND

GENTIAN GENTIAN LIVER DAYS THE

THE

MOUNTAINS . , S T AIDING WEETENED

HE : MIXTURE

ROOTS S

10 OBTAINED HREDDED D O H T E M

DIGESTION MINUTES

ARE

OF IS WITH

POURED

CUT JUICE ROOTS AND PRODUCTION LBANIA

S . HONEY

, INTO HKODRA B D ETC

ECAUSE CAN

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A BE

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10/6/20 9:06AM great yellow gentian. Known locally as sanza, gentian is an herbaceous plant that grows in alpine and sub-alpine pastures, usually in calcareous soils. The most valuable part of the plant is the root, which, after being well dried and cut into small pieces, is used for the preparation of herbal teas. Drinks prepared with gentian roots have an intense bitter taste. Before the introduction of hops, 79 gentian was also used occasionally in brewing. Gentian is harvested by herders in the summer, while their animals graze in the high pastures.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

The genus Gentiana derives its name from King Gentius, an Illyrian king of PRODUCTS Albanian origin who is thought to have discovered the plant’s tonic properties— he is said to have treated wounded soldiers with gentian. In veterinary pharmacopoeia in the 1860s, gentian root (or gentianae radix) was considered useful as a tonic and for treating stomach ailments.

8LIMRLEFMXERXWSJRSVXLIVR&PFERMEEPWSYWIKIRXMERXSǼEZSVVEOM 8LIVSSXW

are simply placed in the alcohol and left to infuse for about a month, giving PROCESSED the spirit a bitter taste and amber color. Albanian fernet, a popular digestif, also contains Gentiana lutea.

Gentian is used as a panacea for gastrointestinal diseases, and was widely use by the people of Kelmend when access to public health services was limited, including in the early 1990s following the end of the Communist Period.

Dehydrated gentian roots can be found in local shops and farmhouses across the alpine areas of Kelmend, and gentian is sold as a dry tea in homeopathic pharmacies, medicinal herb shops, and organic stores in Albania.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Gentiana lutea is at risk because of unsustainable harvesting practices. It takes 5 years for the roots to grow large enough for harvest, but people increasingly harvest younger roots, and in general don’t take not to pull the entire root bunch, making it impossible for the plant to regenerate. In addition, gentiana harvesting has become a commercial activity that is rapidly losing its ties to PSGEP TEWXSVEPMWX GSQQYRMXMIW 7EMWMRK E[EVIRIWW EFSYX XLI FIRIǻXW SJ XLMW plant must include teaching people about responsible harvesting methods.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 79 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 80 80 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA G S T N E I D E R G N I (DJATHI KAÇKAVALL IGJIROKASTRËS) MILK CHEESE S CATEGORY KAÇKAVALL CHEESE HEEP

N. PRODUCTS for their excellent pastures where sheepgraze ona great diversity mountains or surrounding areas. Lunxhëri andKardhiq are known sheep milkfrom local breeds. The animalsgraze freely inthe jirokastra kaçkavall is atraditional dairy product madeof 100%

MILK

AND 29

GJIROKASTRA C USUALLY IN ASSOCIATED REQUIRED PASTE TO LIGHT ABOUT PO IS STAGE INDUSTRIAL IS SHEEP T HIS

HEESEMAKING

W WDERED DIFFERENT THE LEFT ARD

, OPERATION

30 ROTATING MADE MILK RELIES

INITIAL

TO ABOUT THE

FOR

MINUTES

RENNET

COAGULATE IS PROCESSING

WITH

CENTER EVERY

MOSTLY

THESE PHASE 3 HEATED

IS , CURDS MOVEMENTS

WHICH

MONTHS A

CARRIED N O I T A R A P E R P IS .

GRADUAL

DAY , T ,

GRAINS

ADDED HE AND

ON ABOUT

TO NO

UNTIL

, MUST CURD AND

46 ,

SIGHT ARTISANAL

THEN AND BIGGER OUT ,

STARTING TO AND

INCREASE

THIS

DEGREES BE THE

THEN , FORM IN PROCEEDING

DEGREES NOT DONE THEN THE

SMALL MASTERS MEANS THAN

PROCESSING

MILK IS ON

AT ,

DELICATELY IN EFFICIENTLY MADE

AND

GENERALLY

GRAINS THE

DAIRY TEMPERATURE A

THAT D O H T E M COAGULATES

FIXED

REALIZE HE RENNET EDGE AVAILABLE IN

FACILITIES TIMINGS CHEESE

THE OF

W SCHEDULE , OF 2.5-3 OF

ORKED

RESULTS

PRODUCTION C RICE L OPPOSITE

IT IS

THE UNXHËRI ( KAÇKAVALL AJUP

( ON OVER THE

IS ADDED IS G CAN .

. VAT

JIROKASTRA MINUTES T

THEN BY UNPASTEURIZED READY

THE

, HEAT HE , IN

A AND AS HAND VARY

, K .

SIM

DIRECTION TOTAL A MARKET

PERIOD T

AGED

IS .

THE ARDHIQ HE UNIFORM

Z MOVING AT

. U

AND LO

USING AREA ENELI N

CURD NLIKE

MILK TIME THIS ) WER FOR EXT .

OF IS ,

. ,

10/6/20 9:06AM SJǼS[IVWIWTIGMEPP]XVIRHIPMRI Trigonella foenum-graecum), which imparts ETEVXMGYPEVǼEZSYVXSXLIQMPO8LIPSGEPOE±OEZEPPGLIIWIHMǺIVWJVSQSXLIV GLIIWIW TVIGMWIP] HYI XS XLMW WTIGMEP ǼEZSV .R JSVQIV XMQIW [LIR QMPO was only processed with artisanal methods, cheese production took place primarily in April and May; now, with the use of modern storage vessels, milk 81 processing is also carried out during the summer, until the second half of July. Kaçkavall cheeses have rounded edges and contain air holes that form during fermentation. The size of each wheel varies from 3 to 5 kg and the color changes from light to intense yellow as the cheese matures. Kaçkavall has EWLEVTǼS[IV]ERHWEZSV]ǼEZSV MXMWWSJXERHSMP]EXXLIGIRXIV[LMPIXLI outside hardens during aging. PRODUCTS

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Gjirokastra kaçkavall owns its name to the broader tradition of kachkaval/ kashkaval/caciocavallo production, which is practiced from Anatolia to Italy, which refers to a wide variety of stretched-curd cheeses. Although this is not PROCESSED such a cheese, Gjirokastra County is home to a particularly strong tradition of kaçkavall production, and the delicious cheese from this region is known all over Albania. Gjirokastra has been known since ancient times for its dairy production, which includes fresh cottage cheeses and aged cheeses. In the 1930s, Gjirokastra cheese was exported to the US and then Greece. The cheese is eaten throughout the year, either as it is, roasted, or melted in pots.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

There is not enough milk to make Gjirokastra kaçkavall cheese, due to the depopulation of the local villages; many young people either migrate to Greece or seek work in towns and cities. Also, the division of land has reduced the availability of suitable pasture for sheep grazing. Over the last 20 years, attempts to improve the local breeds, so that they will yield more milk, have been undertaken. However, the traditional breeds still produce better quality milk and cheese. It is important that the techniques for producing Gjirokastra kaçkavall be passed to future generations, both because of the high quality of this product and due to its cultural value and link to local breeds and landscapes.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 81 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 82 82 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA O be found either with or without egg.Like most trahanas, osas are an ancient N. 30 S T N E I D E R G N I M W ILK CATEGORY HEAT B

PASTA E OR S UTTER HIIKXXI SV RSYX V MOEH SESEGER SWEW XSHE] ERH QMPO SV ERH]SKYVX ǼSYV XLI XS IKKW EHHIH of Southeastern Europe andtheMiddleEast. Wealthy families JIVQIRXIHQM\XYVISJǼSYVERH]SKYVXSVQMPOJSYRHMRXLIGYMWMRIW sas GGS ALT

YOGURT FLOUR GJIROKASTRA OSAS

belong to the wider family of trahana, adriedfood madefrom a

(OSAT EGJIROKASTËR) T PUT UNDER CREATING ON WIDE SMALL THE MELTED CONTAINER O

THE PREPARE FLOUR INTO

AND

BALLS

THE BUTTER HUMIDITY

COTTON 1-2

SMALL

UNTIL , SUN

THE , OSAS EACH . CM

S EGGS ON

PELLETS

ALT IN , OR

THICK

SMOOTH N O I T A R A P E R P

FLOUR OF

THE

LINEN OODEN IS ARE

WHICH

ADDED HOUSE

IS MIXED THAT HESE

BAGS DOUGH

SIEVED

TRAYS IS

AND ARE DISCS FLATTENED WITH N

AND EXT

AND OR

LEFT THE

MILK ,

OBTAINED STORED ARE

THE LARGE

PUT WET TO

OR DRIED INTO PIECES D O H T E M

DRY

INGREDIENTS IN SOMETIMES PANS

T A

FOR

LARGE

HIS FOR

CIRCLE ARE COOL . G T 1-2

PRODUCTION

IS HE

JIROKASTRA ANOTHER CRUMBLED

, BO

THEN

OSAS WITH DRY ABOUT DAYS

ARE WL

. PLACE DIVIDED

YOGURT , I ARE MIXED 3-4 10-15 DEPENDING N

BY ANOTHER C

FINALLY .

AREA HAND OUNTY

DAYS WITH

INTO AND CM ,

10/6/20 9:06AM staple, prepared during the summer months as provisions for the winter, and they were mainly used to feed children. Osas are small, irregular pellets made F]VYFFMRKXLIHVMIHǼSYVFEWIHHSYKLFIX[IIRXLILERHW-MKLMRKPYXIR they are used to thicken soups and casseroles and, when made with yogurt, XSKMZIWSYTEWSYVǼEZSV 83

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Osas are a very old culinary product and very few people know them. They were traditionally made by the Muslim community of Gjirokastra, in southern Albania. Osas were important in the household economy; children enjoyed PRODUCTS

soup with osas during the winter, and housewives would prepare casseroles with meat and osas when they lacked potatoes or carrots during the winter. Osas were always prepared in large quantities so that families could cope with winter and early spring seasons when no fresh products were available. Mostly women and girls were involved in the production of osas, as well as of other winter provisions called zahire. An average-sized family (6 to 7 people) PROCESSED produced up to 10 to 12 kg of osas.

Nowadays, osas are used to cook casseroles with lamb, either in traditional celebrations or during Sunday family lunches. In the Muslim families that prepare osas, only the meat of lambs, sheep, or chickens is used.

Ismail Kadare, the well-known Albanian writer and nominee for the Nobel Prize in Literature, mentioned osas in books about his childhood. Kadare was born and spent his childhood in the city of Gjirokastra.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

This delicious product is, unfortunately, not known outside of Gjirokastra city. It is prepared only by Muslim families, and the overall number of families that QEOISWEWMWZIV]PS[MRGIXLITVITEVEXMSRHIQERHWEPSXSJIǺSVXERHXMQI most people outside of very traditional families are not interested in making this product, so there is a great risk that it will disappear.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 83 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 84 84 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA B FERMENTED (P S T N E I D E R G N I ANICUM DISTILLED CATEGORY (around 1-2%). Boza is widespread in Turkey andalsopresent in a typical sweet-and-sour taste and a very low alcohol content thought to have originated in Anatolia. Itisathick beverage with oza M ILLET

MILIACEUM

N. BEVERAGES isthenameof alightly fermented, grain-based beverage

AND

)

GORANI BOZA T COOL THEN SUGAR FOR STABLE PRODUCED CORN O

PREPARE

ABOUT

KEPT PLACE CAN

TO FERMENTATION

OBTAIN

24 IN BE IN

BOZA FOR

A USED THE

HOURS SLIGHTLY

ANOTHER

A MILLET N O I T A R A P E R P WINTER

IN SEMI . .

PLACE T T - HE HE

W IS THICK 3 ,

ARM

SOAKED WHEN GRAIN FERMENTED

DAYS OF

PORRIDGE PLACE MILLET

IS GRAIN W

FIRST

FOR . IN TEMPERATURES N

W O 3 IS WHICH D O H T E M

ATER

LEFT MALT

THEN DAYS

AND

TO IS

LEFT

BOILED BEFORE

USED

SOAK PRODUCTION

THEN

ALLO TO

COOL

WITH

ORA B FILTERED W IN BEING (K OZA

FOR UKËS COLD

REGION W DO

ATER

PUT A WN ) . W

MAINLY W AREA SLO

ATER IN HITE AND AND

A ,

10/6/20 9:06AM the Balkans. In northern Albania, boza is traditionally produced from millet (Panicum miliaceum), a “minor cereal” that grows to a height of 50-150 cm. The fermentation of millet to produce a beer-like beverage is a very old tradition in Gorani communities.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Boza is a traditional drink for the Gorani people (Gorani means “people of the mountains”), who speak a very particular South Slavic language. They are believed to be descendants of Bogomil communities who converted to the

Muslim faith quite late, and so have a mixed religion. PRODUCTS

In the Gora region on the borders of Kosovo, Albania, and Macedonia, the harsh mountainous climate limits people’s mobility and contributes to food insecurity throughout most of the cold and snowy season. To withstand these conditions, WXSGOWSJJSSHWXYǺWEVITVITEVIHQSWXP]YWMRKJIVQIRXEXMSRTVSGIWWIW

Boza provides valuable energy and is a fortifying beverage. It used to be kept PROCESSED inside copper containers and vendors would travel around cities in the whole Balkan region selling it. Variations of the so-called traditional recipe with Turkish MRǼYIRGILEZIWTVIEHXLVSYKLSYXXLI'EPOERWERHIZIRXS(IRXVEP&WME

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

3S[ XLEX MX MW IEW] XS ǻRH MRHYWXVMEPP] TVSHYGIH ZIVWMSRW SJ FS^E MR supermarkets, the traditional production method is becoming less common ERHGSYPHHMWETTIEVEPXSKIXLIVEPSRK[MXLXLISVMKMREPǼEZSVW.REHHMXMSRPSRK winters, infrastructure problems, and isolation are pushing people to abandon the mountain villages, adding to the rapid loss of traditional knowledge and gastronomy of the region.

NOMINATOR: ANDREA PIERONI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 85 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 86 86 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA H light yellowish color andsour, fresh taste. lemon juice andallowing themixture to ferment. Ithasslightly cloudy with a FERMENTED S T N E I D E R G N I ( J J DISTILLED UNIPER UNIPERUS CATEGORY W L EMON is madeinlate springby combining juniper berries with water and refreshing drink,it isalsoacurative anddigestive beverage. Hardiç Albania since ancient times.Inadditionto beinganon-alcoholic ardiç ATER

BEVERAGES BERRIES

AND

SPP .)

is a fermented produced made by local communities of central

N. 32 T PRODUCE ADDED TO TRANSFERRED GRADUALLY SUNNY W JUNIPER ( THIS O ATER

PREFERENCE PREPARE

HARDIÇ INDICATES

, . AND W T

BERRIES

ARM HE ADDITIONAL

THEN

SINK HARDIÇ JUNIPER

TO SPOT ,

A THAT COVERED IN

LITTLE N O I T A R A P E R P SECOND BY

, A

LEMONS

HARDIÇ BERRIES THE THE THE LARGE

BIT

( WINDO

BOTTOM JUICE BOTTLE BUT

ARE . OF GLASS

CAN

NOT

W W W IS

ATER

AND ASHED FOR

BE AND BOTTLE SEALED READY

40-45 USED KEPT OR

, THE

QUARTERED

D O H T E M ). A

T ONE T TEASPOON W HE

HE A JAR ATER DAYS

COLD LIQUID BOTTLE OR , AND

. WHICH

PRODUCTION , BECOMES T TW AND

T HE PLACE

IRANA

O OF IS IS

LBASAN

JUNIPER

COMBINED

THEN IS SUGAR STRAINED .

A , D

FILLED YELLO CCORDING

URRËS TIMES LEFT COUNTIES

BERRIES MAY

AREA

WISH

WITH WITH IN AND

, TO BE

10/6/20 9:06AM ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Hardiç is produced mainly at the household level in central Albania. Elderly

people used to drink hardiç after taking a nap in order to refresh themselves 87 and improve digestion. Consuming this drink is thought to help clean the kidneys and treat cysts. According to local tradition, hardiç is also used to lower cholesterol, treat diabetes, and eliminate excess water. Families in rural villages still produce hardiç. It is usually consumed between May and October. PRODUCTS

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Very few families still produce hardiç, so there is a risk that the tradition will be lost. This drink is known only in central Albania and it is primarily the older generations who maintain the use and memory of folk remedies. PROCESSED

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 87 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 88 88 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA J when theanimalsgraze onthe summer pastures. This milkisappreciated ERH&YKYWX FIX[IIR/YP] TVSHYGIH QMPO XLI WTIGMǻGEPP] PEQFMRK EJXIV the mountains of Kelmend, northern Albania. Itismade with thelastmilk ardun is an artisanal dairy product made from the milk of local sheep in S T N E I D E R G N I MILK S CHEESE CATEGORY HEEP

PRODUCTS S ALT ’ S

AND MILK

N. 33 CONSUMED EATEN STIRRED TO AS CONTINUOUSLY A FTER

THICKEN SOON JARDUN .

MILKING ARDUN WITH

VERY .

I THE

TRADITIONAL

WITH ,

IS IS SOON

MILK THE N O I T A R A P E R P NOT OFTEN

AFTER BIT RA CONSERVED IS

W W

ON OF

ARMED

UTENSILS PREPARATION

MILK SALT THE

OVER VERGE FOR MUST FOR . 20 O

NCE

. OF

BE D O H T E M FIRE MINUTES

BOILING IT THAN W

IN ARMED HAS

TRADITIONAL 1

PRODUCTION TO

E DAY COOLED OR

K M 1

ELMEND UP

( ADHE HOUR WHEN S AND

HKODRA AND ,

D ,

, M SHOULD

IT POTS

IT STOPPING

ISTRICT

STIRRED CAN ALËSI

STARTS ) AREA

AND

BE BE

10/6/20 9:06AM because of its high fat content, which gives a creamy quality to the jardun. This special product is thicker than milk, but is not yogurt. It has a very distinctive ǼEZSV

89 ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

The economy of Kelmend is largely subsistence oriented and many people that live in the area are herders with extensive knowledge about animal husbandry. The local cuisine and gastronomic heritage are strictly tied to dairy production. The local sheep’s milk is very famous for the particular taste that it

gives to products such as jardun and yogurt. PRODUCTS

Since jardun is a product that cannot be preserved, it is only consumed within the household; the quantity produced by each family is very low and is based on the number of family members and the number of sheep available for milking. It is very common to give jardun to children, as it is highly nutritious, and is used to prevent many illnesses. PROCESSED

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Jardun risks being lost because pastoral and dairy activities in the mountains are decreasing as people are moving away. In turn, the number of sheep in Kelmend has drastically diminished in recent years; most families have some cows, but often do not also keep sheep.

Since it is a product that needs to be eaten fresh, jardun is only found within households, not on the market, so its survival depends on the existence of families that know how to look after sheep, as well as how to prepare the drink. As the inhabitants that remain in the region are mostly elderly, the future of jardun is most certainly at risk.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 89 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 90 90 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA w S T N E I D E R G N I CATEGORY F PASTA E M S LOUR GGS ALT N. ILK

TPIEWERXǼEZSYVHMWXMRKYMWLXLMWTEWXEJVSQSXLIVTEWXEWQEHI water-powered mills. The useof eggs andmilk, which give ita MR KVSYRH ǼSYV quality whole-wheat durum(Triticum durum is atraditional handmadepasta.Itisusually made with high- 34

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10/6/20 9:06AM in the region. It may be one of the oldest types of pasta in Europe. The pasta is usually made during the summer, as it is easier to dry it at this time of year.

.RXLITEWXXLIǻIPHWSJ)MFVEMRRSVXLIEWXIVR&PFERME[IVITPERXIH[MXLE special variety of local durum wheat called karabash, which was cultivated QEMRP]JSVNYJOETVSHYGXMSR3S[EHE]WNYJOEMWQEHI[MXLMQTSVXIHǼSYV 91

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

/YJOE MW [IPP ORS[R JSV MXW HMWXMRGXMZI ǼEZSV ERH EVXMWEREP TVITEVEXMSR )MFVE County, where this pasta originated, has remained relatively conservative and PRODUCTS

has not become over developed, which has helped to preserve the region’s culture and gastronomy. Jufka was traditionally soaked in animal fat or cooked together with a chicken and its stock, until the liquid evaporated.

Jufka has also been found among the Arbëreshë, a community of Albanians living in Southern Italy since 1480, which implies that this traditional pasta is at

least several centuries old. PROCESSED

Jufka has always been produced mainly for home consumption, but it is now possible to buy it in some markets. It is prepared by women in the households of Dibra.

During the Communist Period, when traditional recipes were discouraged and crops were managed by the state, many people forgot how to prepare jufka. Today, only a limited number of women retain the knowledge.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

;MXLXLIWTVIEHSJMRHYWXVMEPTEWXEƴ[LMGLMWGLIETIVERHIEWMIVXSǻRHƴNYJOE is at risk of disappearing. However, the product does have a chance to be rediscovered. Given the limited employment opportunities in the area, as well as the desire to expose jufka to a wider audience, a group of women from the village of Vakuf have taken the initiative to produce artisanal jufka for commercial sale. The association allows women to diversify their incomes, become promoters of local development, and improve their role in the community. The cooperative has an oral agreement with the local farmers to ensure that all the ingredients are purchased from them.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 91 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 92 92 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA K FPYIFIVVMIWERHZMSPIXW MXWHIPMGMSYWǼEZSVWEVIUYMXITIVWMWXIRXSRXLITEPEXI FERMENTED S T N E I D E R G N I K DISTILLED ALLMET CATEGORY N. Kallmet wine hasabeautiful rich ruby color andaromas of red apple, round, andreddish violet incolor, with moderately thickskin. PIEZIWLEZIǻZIPSFIW8LIKVETIWXLIQWIPZIWEVIQIHMYQWM^IH allmet vines produce large, relatively loosegrape bunches. The

BEVERAGES GRAPES 35

AND

KALLMET WINE (VERË KALLMET) IS GRAPES OFTEN AND L OCALS

KEPT

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, ) 10/6/20 9:06AM ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Albania has a long tradition of viticulture, which is mentioned in various ancient

writings; the Roman naturalist Pliny described Albanian wine as “very sweet” 93 and ranked it third among all the wines he had tasted. Many Albanian families traditionally grow grapes in their gardens to produce wine and raki, a local brandy (in the past, Kallmet grapes were used primarily for raki).

Grape cultivation is one of the main agricultural activities in Kallmet (the village after which the Kallmet grape is named) and Mirdita, Lezhë County, northwestern Albania, where 80% of local farmers consider Kallmet wine PRODUCTS

production to be one of their main sources of income. They have always planted their land with local grape varieties.

Kallmet wine is consumed during celebrations in Catholic families. Because it is strongly connected to religious celebrations, this wine is also a common accompaniment to daily meals. As a rather robust wine, Kallmet is a good

pairing for the slow-cooked meat dishes typical of the region. In Shkodra, the PROCESSED County to the north of Lezhë, Kallmet wine is the traditional accompaniment to carp casserole. Some families used to age cheese in Kallmet wine pomace.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Recently there has been a drastic reduction in the growth of vines as a result of the migration of young people to the cities and out of Albania. Climate change MWERSXLIVTSXIRXMEPVMWOEWMXEǺIGXWXLIVMTIRMRKTVSGIWW [IEXLIVTEXXIVRW have become increasingly unpredictable).

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 93 10/6/20 9:06 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 94 94 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA B N. 36 BREAD S T N E I D E R G N I

C AND CATEGORY ORN ukë në voterukë was baked onthetraditional voter ing cornbread in the mountain communities: Inthepast,cornbread dialect) isanoldrecipe from Kelmend, linked to aspecial way of bak W

(BUKË NË VOTER /BUKËMISRIT / ATER BAKED

KELMEND CORNBREAD FLOUR

GOODS

(also BUKË KOLLOMOQIT) bukë misriin Albanian or ÆƣīêƐīŇĮĮŇķŇŭĞƒ inthelocal S T RECTANGULAR FORM EATEN BREAD MAKE SHËLLIRË AND EMBERS O INCE

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- 10/6/20 9:07AM Kelmend, in the far north of Albania, has a particularly favorable climate for the cultivation of īŇĮĮŇķŇŭƐĞƐƽåŹÚĚê (yellow corn), which was grown in the fertile lands along the banks of the Cem River; nowadays īŇĮĮŇķŇŭƐĞƐÆ±ŹÚĚê (white corn) is cultivated as well.

The dough is formed by hand into either a round or a rectangular shape and 95 traditionally has a cross drawn on it. The color is light brown, with the crust a WLEHIHEVOIV8LIGVYWXMWGVYRGL]ERHXLIMRWMHIMWWSJX]IXǻVQHYIXSXLI FVMRIMR[LMGLMXMWWSEOIH8LIǻRMWLIHFVIEHLEWEZIV]HIPMGEXIǼEZSV[MXLE slight sweetness.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ PRODUCTS

Bukë në voter has important religious and cultural value for people who prepare it. Since Kelmend is a Catholic region, women used to draw a cross on the bread, which is considered a gift from God. It is also a product that has a strong link with the land, more so than in other places in Albania where

cornbread is found, because the soil of the Kelmend region is particularly PROCESSED good for cultivating yellow corn. Today, however, this bread has come to be seen as a poor product.

Unlike in the other countries of the Communist Bloc in Eastern Europe, in Albania it was not possible to have any kind of private economic activity after 1967, even at the family level. The state decided and controlled everything, including which crops would be cultivated in each territory. This inevitably led to the loss of the farmers’ local corn varieties. The prevailing use of white corn has changed the original territorial identity of this bread, but bukë në voter is still very common on the tables of Kelmend.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Bukë në voter has changed in two important ways: Firstly, white corn has VITPEGIHXLISPH]IPPS[ZEVMIXMIW[LMGLLEWKMZIRXLIGSVRFVIEHEHMǺIVIRX ǼEZSV ERH GYPXYVEP WMKRMǻGERGI WIGSRHP] IPIGXVMG SZIRW LEZI KVEHYEPP] replaced the traditional ovens, though some elderly members of the community still have and know how to use the voter. The use of electric ovens has inevitably changed the characteristic taste of the traditional bread. Today bukë në voter reminds people of life in the countryside and its use is limited to consumption in the household.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 95 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 96 96 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA M borderMontenegro. with meat are very common throughout Kelmend, a region in northern Albania on the AND SMOKEDPORKMEAT S T N E I D E R G N I AND

CURED MEAT CATEGORY R N. SMOKE A P W ORK

PRODUCTS SALT

MEAT particularly fat breed. This pigand various products madefrom its produced from the meat of the local Kelmend pig,asmall but meat inKelmend, dating backhundreds of years. Mishithatë is ish ithatë (literally “dried meat”) is theoldest way of preserving 37

KELMEND DRIED (MISH I THATË ) INSIDE TREES DAYS THEN PIECES AND CUT A FTER

INTO COVERED

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T REMOVING THE HE ARE HE

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LAYER HAMS

IN QUICKLY FOR

THE A

4-5 SMOKING

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UNREFINED IN

- KG IS

THE VENTILATED HOT

THEN EACH .

PIG

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ATER .

STORED CARCASS

T RA

HESE D O H T E M

FROM PLACE TO

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ARE IN REMOVE ,

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PRODUCTION COLD E

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ELMEND INTO

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OF HKODRA

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10/6/20 9:07AM Kelmend pigs reach a weight of 120-200 kg. Each sow can give birth to 8-16 pigs per year. The locals of Kelmend are particularly careful in feeding their pigs, avoiding excess corn in favor of wild local herbs, bran, and grass, which improve the quality of the meat. Pork is the primary protein source in winter for the area’s (EXLSPMGTSTYPEXMSR2MWLMXLEXµLEWEWQSO]ǼEZSVERHHV]XI\XYVI MXMW 97 cured in salt before being smoked).

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

This product is particularly associated with the winter, a time of year when

many preserved foods are made and consumed. It is usually made after the PRODUCTS

December 6, when Saint Nicholas Day is celebrated.

Mish i thäte is produced mainly for use within the household, and consumption is limited to the Kelmend region. Most families in Kelmend own at least one pig, and each family uses the meat for its own subsistence needs. Since the fall of Communism, the Kelmend pig has been cross-bred with larger, more productive breeds from Montenegro, so today the breed is larger and leaner PROCESSED than in the past.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Mish i thäte and the local Kelmend pigs from which it is made are at risk of disappearance due to social and economic conditions in the region: There is a high degree of rural-to-urban migration among the younger generations because of the lack of economic opportunities in the area and the low TVSǻXEFMPMX]SJXVEHMXMSREPJEVQMRKERHFVIIHMRKEGXMZMXMIW8LMWMWFVMRKMRKEFSYX a gradual loss of knowledge related to the traditional, local methods involved in meat processing.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 97 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 98 98 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA K FERMENTED S T N E I D E R G N I R (P R IPE AKI DISTILLED RUNUS CATEGORY

( SOUR OPTIONAL

S OR typical spiritof theBalkans). infusion and,insomecases, with theadditionof local raki made with from cherries(Prunuscerasus ). Itisprepared through Likër Vishnje—orvishnjak, asitisknownallmet locally—is aliqueur N. UGAR

CERASUS ALCOHOL

BEVERAGES CHERRIES

AND 38 )

)

SOUR CHERRY (LIKËR VISHNJE) BRANDY STORED FERMENTAT LEFT SUGAR HARVESTED T A O FTER

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IS THE IN

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(the 10/6/20 9:07AM Sour cherry trees grow to a height of 2-8 meters and their leaves are 5-8 cm long. The cherries have a circumference of about 1.5 cm. The particular cherries used to make Likër Vishnje are very watery and more astringent than normal sour cherries, and their skin is very thin.

The color of the beverage ranges from pink to dark red. It has a sweet-and- 99 sour taste and a viscous consistency. It is an alcoholic beverage normally used as a digestive.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Likër Vishnje is a traditional liqueur from northern Albania and is well known PRODUCTS

throughout the region. It is produced almost entirely for household consumption, but may also occasionally be found in some traditional restaurants. Usually elder women are the ones that know how to prepare it.

The liquor is always served to guests, and is considered a healthy beverage. After the liqueur is strained, the sour cherries are then often eaten as a dessert. PROCESSED The tradition of using sour cherries is part of the ecological knowledge of TISTPIPMZMRKMRXLIZMPPEKIWSJRSVXLIVR&PFERME1SGEPWYWIHMǺIVIRXTEVXWSJ the plant for medical purposes (for example, the peduncles of the fruits are harvested when fully ripe and left to dry in the sun, after which they are used as a diuretic solution).

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

During Communism, the production of Likër Vishnje was forbidden, so many families lost the traditional preparation method. This is the reason why older people are the only ones who know how to prepare this traditional liqueur. Unless these recipes are passed onto younger generations, the drink risks disappearing.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 99 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 100 100 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T prepare aspecial local variety of pekmez , akindof syrup. S T N E I D E R G N I FRUIT (M L M CATEGORY EMON ORUS ULBERRIES black or white. Local peoplegather thefruits andusethejuice to sweet fruitshave acircumference of about2cmandcanbeeither Albania, ripemulberriesare harvested duringthemonth of June. The hroughout the villages of Myzeqeja, aplainincentral western

MULBERRY PEKMEZ PRESERVES

JUICE

SPP .)

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A TO

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WING BOILED NOR

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10/6/20 9:07AM ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Fier County has a very good climate for mulberry trees, which were introduced

during the Ottoman period for silkworm production, and which are still of great 101 importance to the culture and economy of the region. Mulberry pekmez has long been produced by families in the Myzeqeja area, and is traditionally served at breakfast with bread and butter. Because it is so sweet, mulberry pekmez is often diluted with water. All of the family members use to collect the berries together. This product is sold locally in very small quantities, and today even the tradition of making it at home is dying out. PRODUCTS

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

This product is at risk of extinction because the local mulberry trees have

been damaged by several diseases and pests. Rural-to-urban migration has PROCESSED reduced the capacity of local farmers to restore these local mulberry trees, and most remaining farmers are elderly. As a result, mulberry-based products EVIFIGSQMRKMRGVIEWMRKP]HMǽGYPXXSǻRH

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 101 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 102 102 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA M S T N E I D E R G N I MILK N. CHEESE S CATEGORY G C HEEP OAT

O PRODUCTS W 40

MILK MILK MILK

AND preserved inçapre, thedriedskinof a young goat or sheep. container andallowed to acidify. This product was traditionally made mainly with goat’s milk.Itisacream that isagedina aza eçapres isanartisanal dairy product from northern Albania

MAZA EÇAPRES TO TO CONTAINER SPECIAL INSIDE SALT HAS T O

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IN SKIN OODEN ,

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IS ANIMAL CREAM .

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MILK IS GOAT IN

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CLEANED HELD A

EVERY DRY , BARREL

PREVIOUSLY

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, 10/6/20 9:07AM Maza e çapres is found mainly in the villages of Boga and Kolça, and the Kelmendi tribes of these villages are specialized in the care of goats. These villages, which lie at elevations between 200 and 1,250 meters a.s.l., are located in lower Kelmend, where the lack of green pasture means that goats are the only livestock that can survive. Men tend to the animals while women 103 process the milk.

Maza e çapres is usually prepared during summer, when the animals produce more milk, and consumed during the winter, either alone or mixed with nena (a kind of nettle). Nowadays it is also common to eat byrek me nene e me mazë (byrek with nettle and mazë).

2E^E I ±ETVIW LEW ER EGMHMG ǼEZSV [LMXI XS ]IPPS[MWL GSPSV ERH GVIEQ] PRODUCTS consistency.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

The preparation of maza has deep roots in the pastoralist communities of

Kelmend, a cultural region in the mountains in northern Albania near the PROCESSED FSVHIV[MXL2SRXIRIKVS*EGLJEQMP]PMZIWSǺMXWS[RERMQEPWERHWSMPERHXLI preparation of dairy products is an essential part of getting ready for the hard, cold winter. Each family produces 10-15 kg of maza per year.

Maza e çapres is only made for household consumption and is an important dish to serve during celebrations or to show hospitality. Various dairy products are considered a fundamental asset to be shared with guests in order to show VIWTIGXERHGSRǻVQXLILSRSVSJXLILSYWI

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

While the preparation of maza e çapres continues in the higher villages, it is disappearing from those further down the valleys. In lower Kelmend, families are raising fewer and fewer animals, and migration to the United States and Italy has depopulated the area. The greatest threat to the future of maza e çapres is the fact that the preparation methods are changing: The custom of using lamb or kid skin is declining in favor of plastic containers that do not FVIEXLIPMOIXLIERMQEPWOMRWHS8LMWJYRHEQIRXEPP]GLERKIWXLIWTIGMEPǼEZSV of the cream.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 103 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 104 104 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA A the slopesof the Albanian Alps. summer months, when theanimalsgraze freely inthe fresh mountain air on the milkof cows, sheep,andgoat mixed together, andisproduced only in the S T N E I D E R G N I ( CO MILK W CHEESE CATEGORY , R

SHEEP PRODUCTS M S ENNET is matured in wooden containers, not inanimal skin.Itismadefrom family, found across the Balkan Peninsula and Anatolia, althoughit complexity anddistinctiveness. Itbelongsto the“cheese inasack” mong Kelmend’s many typical products, mishavinëstandsoutfor its ALT ILK

AND

GOAT N.

)

41 MISHAVINË O THE CLARIFIED CONTAINER THE HAND PROTECTED WHICH T HE NCE

BOTTOM MISHAVINË CHEESE ,

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SEALED IS AND

THEN

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LEFT

CUT IN

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THE THICK AND LARGE 7-10

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10/6/20 9:07AM This cheese is generally white, tending toward straw yellow. It has a crumbly GSRWMWXIRG] ERH FIGSQIW HVMIV ERH QSVI GSQTEGX [MXL EKMRK 8LI ǼEZSV MRGPYHIWRSXIWSJJSVIWXERHLE]ERHXLIǻRMWLFIGSQIWQSVITMUYERXSZIVXMQI

105 ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Located in the far north of Albania, Kelmend remains one of Europe’s least known and most inaccessible places. The road leading from the city of Shkodra to Kelmend has been paved only recently, and it takes several hours to reach the green pastures of the village of Lëpushë, set amidst the peaks of

the Albanian Alps close to the border with Montenegro. PRODUCTS

Mishavinë is made only in the summer months when the animals live on the mountain pastures, and is eaten throughout the long winter. Together with other products such as mish i thäte (cured pork) and bukë në voter (a bread made with [LMXIGSVRǼSYVQMWLEZMRµGSYPHQEOIEHIGMWMZIGSRXVMFYXMSRXSXLIVIZMZEPSJ one of Europe’s most unspoiled areas and boost its tourism appeal. PROCESSED

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

0IPQIRHMWI\XVIQIP]MWSPEXIH XLILEVWL[MRXIVWWSQIXMQIWGYXXLIPSGEPWSǺ for months at a time); there are few employment opportunities and much of the population has left to seek their fortunes in more developed areas. Many of the mountain communities in this region now risk disappearing, along with the gastronomic traditions that have been passed down through the generations, preserving their authenticity.

ȋȺȇȃȜȨȕȧȨȨȲȸȀȇȃȄȲȄȎȣ

The Presidium has worked together with producers and cheesemaking experts to come up with a production protocol that facilitates higher quality standards, including reviving the use of traditional wooden barrels for aging the cheese. The next step will be to bring the production and storage facilities up to standard so that mishavinë can meet European food-safety regulations and be sold more widely. The Presidium was created thanks to the initiative of VIS Albania (which has been working in Kelmend for several years with a wide- ranging program of income-generating activities, including many based on tourism and gastronomy) and is supported by the Slow Food Cooks’ Alliance, which was launched in Albania in 2015 to support small-scale high-quality food production.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 105 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 106 106 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA R FERMENTED S T N E I D E R G N I ( O W RIGANUM DISTILLED HITE CATEGORY N. region provide ideal conditions for thespontaneous growth of this leaves andstems of wild white oregano. The soil and climate of the in theregion of Përmet, insouthern Albania. Itismadefrom the aki rigoni,or “oregano raki,” isoneof theoldestalcoholic beverages

OREGANO

BEVERAGES

42 VULGARE

AND

)

OREGANO RAKI (RAKI RIGONI) FINISHES BUBBLING MUST BARREL LITERS M AKING

BE ; OF AFTER

, RAKI .

STIRRED THE W T HE ATER

2-3 FERMENTED RIGONI

FERMENTATION

AND FREQUENTLY N O I T A R A P E R P DAYS

REQUIRES 10-15 ,

THE MIXTURE

OREGANO

LASTS KG

OVER A

LOT IS OF

DISTILLED

ABOUT

THE THE OF

STARTS

TIME

OREGANO FOLLO

10 D O H T E M

AND

ONCE TO DAYS W

ING FERMENT

EFFORT

ARE

IN PRODUCTION DAYS

OLD

TOTAL

( LEFT : G , F

AND JIROKASTRA BRANDY IRST UNTIL P

IN AND ËRMET

THE

, A ABOUT

, IT

MIXTURE ONCE STILLS

OODEN AREA STOPS ) 50

. IT

10/6/20 9:07AM plant. It is primarily women who collect this plant during the summer. Oregano is valued for its high antioxidant content.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ 107

This spirit is linked to the villages of Përmet and Frashër in the cultural region of Dangëllia, and is produced in extremely small quantities.

Younger members of the family follow their elders as they collect the wild oregano, and the production of oregano raki is mostly a male activity.

In the past, raki rigoni was often consumed during the winter to relieve PRODUCTS respiratory illness.

Oregano is an excellent natural remedy and is used to treat the u, stomach- aches, bacterial infections, and sore throat, and against hepatitis. In addition to being made into raki, oregano leaves are infused in hot water to make a curative tisane. PROCESSED Raki rigoni is not sold commercially; it is made only for household consumption.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The tradition of producing raki rigoni is being lost as residents of the local villages move to the cities for better economic opportunities. Young people in particular are disinclined to pursue agricultural activities or artisanal food production. Rural areas need an inclusive development policy in order to grow the market for local products.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 107 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 108 108 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA P below freezing. winter, especially duringthemonth of December, when the temperatures are raised inthenearby mountain pastures. Pastërma is prepared duringthe S T N E I D E R G N I AND

CURED MEAT G CATEGORY or mutton, itisbest when prepared with themeat of anolder goat SZIVEǻVITPEGISVSZIR8LSYKLMXGERFITVSHYGIH[MXLFIIJTSVO areas of DangëlliaandFrashër, that ismade by dryinggoat meat astërma OAT S ALT

PRODUCTS

MEAT MEAT GOAT PASTËRMA

is acured meat from the region of Përmet, particularly the

N. 43 (PASTËRMA) T IN ARE NECESSARY AND STRIPS A IS 24

BARREL SELECTED A

HOURS MAKE

CUT DRY DRIED

ARE PËRMET

INTO

PLACE PASTËRMA WITH .

T VERY

TO CAREFULLY AND HEN

SMALLER

ENSURE . SALT

CUT THE SLO N O I T A R A P E R P ,

AND WLY

FAT INTO

GOAT

UNIFORM HUNG PIECES

IS LEFT T

STRIPS

HE CUT

IS 1-1.5

TO MEAT SLAUGHTERED AND

OFF DRYING

5-6 REST

STORED METERS IS THE

CM FOR CLOSELY . W

BONES

WIDE 12-15

HEN D O H T E M IN

ABOVE AND

CANVAS

. ARE FINISHED OBSERVED T

THE HESE

HOURS

THE REMOVED

CARCASS PRODUCTION

STRIPS BAGS OVEN

( , . T G

THE AND JIROKASTRA HE

P ,

THAT

OR AND ËRMET

DRIED ARE

IS SALTED ROTATED

FIREPLACE HUNG

ARE THE PUT

STRIPS AREA

MEAT MEAT INTO KEPT

) FOR

10/6/20 9:07AM ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Pastërma has been made and consumed in the area around Përmet since

ancient times, and its production is a tradition that is passed down through the 109 generations. It was originally made with mutton; during the Ottoman period, primarily beef was used because of the Muslim faith. The version made with KSEXMWHIVMZIHJVSQXLIYRMUYI'IOXEWLMYǻ4VHIV

Pastërma was created as a way to preserve fresh meat that could not be GSRWYQIHMRMXWIRXMVIX]FIJSVIWTSMPMRKQEPPǻVIWSVVYHMQIRXEV]SZIRWLEZI always been used as the source of heat for drying. PRODUCTS

Pastërma is used in many dishes, the most preferred of which also include beans, onions, leeks, and cabbage or pickles. Local families in Përmet prepare this cured meat mostly for home consumption.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ PROCESSED

Today, the traditional goat pastërma of Përmet is at risk of disappearing due to increasing rural-to-urban migration, which compromises the transmission of traditional knowledge from generation to generation. Furthermore, new hygiene rules make it impossible for local butchers to prepare the cured meat according to the original tradition, especially with the use of locally raised and slaughtered animals. This prevents artisan producers from emerging, and in general the practice of making cured meats at home is declining.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 109 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 110 110 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA P S T N E I D E R G N I W W ATER CATEGORY Petka originated from the bitsof doughleft over after makingpie. especially with Korçë, Pogradec, and Permët insoutheastern Albania. Its history stretches backat least200 years anditisassociated etka HEAT PASTA E S ( GGS OPTIONAL ALT F LOUR

is atypeof pasta,prepared mainly asaprovision for the winter. )

N. 44 O W BEEN FLAVOR ITEM CONTAINED THE IN DRY OR FOR 40-50 ATER

NCE

LINEN

OTHER .

OLD , ABOUT

O RESPONSIBLE EGGS

THE NCE IF AND

CM DAYS OR PETKA

FLAT

NECESSARY

BECAME

FLOUR COMPLETELY

NO IN DENSER COTTON ,

DIAMETER SURFACES WHEN EGG MINUTES

IS FOR

N O I T A R A P E R P THE ,

CONSISTENCY

SACKS BUT ). PETKA SIEVED

THE

MAIN A DRY

. ,

BEFORE T

COVERED WHEN DOUGH

HESE

PREPARATION , , WERE ,

WHICH THE INGREDIENT THE

SHEETS

THEY BEING PASTA

. W MADE IS EGGS

WITH

ARE

FORMED OMEN STARTED

IS OPENED

FROM

, STORED COTTON AND OF

BROKEN

DOUGH

D O H T E M

AND PETKA

THEY

SALT AND SCRAPS BEING

OUT

GIRLS IN TABLECLOTHS K

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INTO ARE

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PRODUCTION MADE ERMËT COOL

OF HAVE

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THIN PIECES THE

ADDED , P ALLO

PIE

, OGRADEC

(

PETKA AS

OUT TRADITIONALLY DRY LAYERS G

WED , DOUGH

( AND AND JIROKASTRA A

AND ON

PLACE

SEPARATE

A TO

PLACED

LEFT

TABLES BETTER

ABOUT (K AREA ,

SOME THEY REST . ORÇË

TO I N

) ); 10/6/20 9:07AM ,IRIVEPP]TIXOEEVITVSHYGIH[MXLPSGEP[LIEXǼSYV;LMXIǼSYVMWTVIJIVVIH WMRGIXLIHSYKLWLSYPHFISTIRIH[MXLSYXHMǽGYPX]ERHWLSYPHGSRXEMRELMKL gluten content. Petka have an irregular shape, as they are made from broken pieces.

Petka can be cooked for any meal, and are usually boiled in salted water and 111 then served seasoned with butter and white cheese. Fresh mint can also be EHHIHXSKMZIEVIJVIWLMRKǼEZSVXSXLIHMWL

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Petka originates from the tradition of cooking pies, which was especially PRODUCTS

important during weddings, most often celebrated in the fall, after the harvest season. Preparing the pies took a long time, as they were all made by hand. During this process, the bits of dough cut from the edges of the pie crust as they were places in baking pans would accumulate. The housewives did not throw these scraps of dough away, but dried and collected them in linen or

cotton sacks (even pillow cases) and then cooked them during the winter. PROCESSED

Petka were a necessity and were highly demanded by children due to their delicious taste and short cooking time. Over the years, housewives took to preparing petka in late summer when it was easy to dry them outdoors.

During the Communist period and through the 1990s, petka continued to be made and cooked in Albanian households. More recently, as a result of the growing appreciation for typical local products, petka have started to appear in new specialty stores (e.g. for organic or traditional products), mainly in Tirana and in Korçë and Pogradec.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Even though petka remain popular, very few families continue to produce them for domestic consumption, so there is a high risk that the tradition of making petka at home will be lost, along with the old production techniques and associated knowledge.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 111 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 112 112 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T WSYVǼEZSYVERHWSJXXI\XYVI pickled unripeeggplants. After pickling,theeggplants have alacticaroma, N. VEGETABLE S T N E I D E R G N I U 45 NRIPE CATEGORY PEPPERS PARSLEY VIJIVWWTIGMǻGEPP]XS cucumbers, andeggplants; ƒƣŹžĚĞƐŤ±ƒêĮĮǄĚ±Ļê unripe vegetables, especially peppers,green tomatoes, cabbage, throughout the year. They canbe madefrom various kindsof urshi are pickled vegetables madeinthehome to be consumed GARLIC S

O EGGPLANTS ALT

IL PRESERVES

PICKLED EGGPLANT

(TURSHI PATËLLXHANË) LEAST SALT MIXTURE AND MIXED LENGTHWISE T T HEY O

MAKE SALT

AND 3

ARE WITH , WEEKS .

PLACED

OIL T THEN

TURSHI HE , PEPPERS , AND

AND HOLLO .

DRAINED

OVER

BOILED N O I T A R A P E R P WEIGHED PATËLLXHANË , WED GARLIC

GRAPE

- AND

OUT IN

DO ,

SALTED

PARSLEY HOLLO LEAVES EGGPLANT WN , . UNRIPE T WED

HEY W IN , ATER ANY

A SKINS ARE OUT

EGGPLANTS D O H T E M

OTHER OODEN UNTIL

, THEN

AND ARE

VEGETABLES THEY LEFT THEN

THE BARREL PRODUCTION

ARE PULP

STUFFED BEGIN G

JIROKASTRA , FERMENT

COVERED W IS

ASHED BEING

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WITH

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AREA ,

USED

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AT . ,

10/6/20 9:07AM ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Preserving vegetables via lactic acid fermentation (pickling) is an ancient

tradition in the Balkans and the Middle East. The word turshi derives from the 113 Persian word torsh, which means “sour.” This product is widely prepared for home consumption, and now can also be found in markets all over Albania. Turshi patëllxhanë are usually served before dinner with appetizers or as a condiment with a main course. They are usually made during the summer, when the price of vegetables is not high. It is usually woman and grandparents who go to the market to purchase the ingredients, which are then pickled at home. PRODUCTS

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Nowadays the artisanal method used for the preparation of this product is at risk of disappearing, due to the rise of industrial variations that lack the same quality, health properties and production techniques that make turshi unique PROCESSED in its characteristic and taste.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 113 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 114 114 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA P S T N E I D E R G N I FRUIT (P W CATEGORY RUNUS were traditionally usedto make vinegar or pistil. The women of the and early fall when thefruitsripen. Plumsthat were too sour to eat the food traditions of ElbasanCounty. Itisprepared inlate summer istil isaprocessed product madefrom wild plums,mostly linked to ILD

PRESERVES

PLUMS

SPP .)

N. 46 IN DISHES DAYS PUREE THEY LO T T HEY O

W A

PREPARE

COOL . .

FIRE ARE

T ARE IS . . HE I

N THEN

FOR PRESSED RESULTING THEN

PISTIL PLACE THE

PISTIL

ABOUT SPREAD

PAST PLACED . , ,

N O I T A R A P E R P TO RIPE

, , GELATINOUS 20-30 20-30

PISTIL

REMOVE OUT

IN W ILD

A INTO W

LARGE AS PLUMS

MINUTES THE

MASS A STORED

THIN , , SKIN

ARE COVERED

IS . .

LAYER KEPT AND W IN D O H T E M NCE ASHED

PIECES

FOR PITS

POT LEFT THE

W AND USE

FROM ITH AND PRODUCTION PLUMS OF TO E

S IN

LBASAN LINEN PLENTY AIR

HKODRA

COOKED VARIOUS THE

HAVE DRY

OR , FLESH

OF T

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COUNTIES SHRUNK

COTTON

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W AREA . . INTER 2-3 ATER T , HE

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10/6/20 9:07AM house would collect fruit from the wild plum trees so that it wouldn’t go to waste. Pistil is basically a slightly sour fruit leather (dried puree). It is widely YWIH MR WXI[W SV GEWWIVSPIW QEMRP] MR XLI[MRXIV ERH WTVMRK .XW WSYV ǼEZSV helps to balance out the fattiness of meat dishes and is a nice complement to XLIW[IIXǼEZSVSJPEQF 115

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Plum pistil has been produced by generations of Albanian families in Elbasan, Shkodra, and Tirana counties, and is also found in parts of Berat and Korçë. In the past, it was commonly made in towns and cities as well as rural villages. PRODUCTS

Families living in houses with private gardens surrounded by fruit trees used to prepare several kinds of fruit preserves and jams, including pistil. In addition to plums, pistil can be produced from cornel and apricot, though plum pistil is the most widespread version.

Many important dishes of Albanian cuisine, such as tava or white cabbage

and minced meat, can include pistil. When fruit juices were not avaiable, PROCESSED pistil could be turned into juice by adding warm water and sugar; this was consumed either warm or cold. Pistil was an important winter provision for many Albanian families.

Nowadays, it is occasionally found in farmers’ markets in Elbasan and Librazhd.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Preparation of the pistil takes time and requires wild plums of good quality. Now that many people, especially the youth, no longer make their own fruit preserves (particularly from wild fruits that must be collected by hand), pistil has become rare. Very few families maintain the traditional production techniques, so there is a risk that homemade pistil will disappear. There are JSSHIRXVIVTVMWIWXLEXQEOIMRHYWXVMEPTPYQERHETVMGSXTMWXMPFYXXLIǼEZSVMW HMǺIVIRXERHMXHSIWRSXLEZIXLIWEQIPMROXSPSGEPVIWSYVGIWERHGSQQYRMXMIW

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 115 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 116 116 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA R taste. as a winter provision. Rehani thanëshasadarkcherry color andfresh, acidic N. S T N E I D E R G N I C ORNELIAN FRUIT 47 ( C CATEGORY ORNUS August, thenthefruitshave reached maximumripeness)to beused Përmet andErsekë. Itismadeinthelate summer andfall (usually known ascornel or dogwood) insouthern Albania, particularly ehani thanësisafruitbeverage madefrom cornelian cherries,also W S

BEVERAGES UGAR ATER

CHERRIES

MAS

CORNELIAN CHERRY )

(REHANI E THANËS) CLEANED O W IS APPEARS SPOON THEN FOR 45 45 T T JUICE HE HEN ITH

NCE REHANI 30-40 30-40

MINUTES OBTAINED

COLD DRAINED

THEY ), ), THE

AND ON OF

THANËS ARE W

CORNELIAN

ATER UNTIL

ANY THE MINUTES , ,

STRAINED PULP

PUT COOKED

. SURFACE . . SMALL

N O I T A R A P E R P

T IT IN IS O

, ,

THICKENS

ANOTHER COOKED

UNTIL ENJOY

IN CHERRIES W T

W ITH

IS W IGS

ATER

THEY CAREFULLY A A

. . IN

VESSEL AND GLASS D SIEVE

IN A URING HAVE BEGIN

POT A LEAVES

, ,

LARGE TO OF

CRUSHED

W REMOVED RIPENED

TO BOILING

D O H T E M ITH REMOVE REHANI , ,

BOIL METAL

AND A

LITTLE ( , , . . , , . . , ,

OFTEN

P THEY W T THE

T THE THE PRODUCTION POT ËRMET HE HE ASHED

SUGAR

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OVER ARE W HITE ( ITH

G THOROUGHLY

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W SEEDS ABOUT SYRUP AREA

THAT FIRE )

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10/6/20 9:07AM ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

&GGSVHMRK XS XVEHMXMSR VILERM XLERµW [EW SǺIVIH XS JVMIRHW GSQMRK LSQI

TEVXMGYPEVP][SQIR QIR[IVISǺIVIHVEOM.R5µVQIXMX[EWGSQQSRP]HVYRO 117 after meals. In the winter, it replaced milk, which was scarce or completely unavailable at this time of year.

Women are traditionally the ones responsible for the preparation of rehani, which can also be made from grapes (rehani rrushi, the most common version, especially in central Albania), plums, or quince. Rehani thanës is mostly prepared at home, though there are some commercial processors in Përmet PRODUCTS

and Erseka. Thana (cornelian cherry) is quite an important fruit for the people of Përmet.

Some organic shops specializing in local products sell rehani, especially in Tirana and Gjirokastra. PROCESSED șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Very few families still make rehani thanës, although the residents of Përmet identify strongly with this product. After the 1990s, part of the population of Përmet and Erseka migrated away, mainly to Greece. As a result of this demographic shift, agricultural land, fruit trees, and vineyards are no longer cared for as they once were; many villages in the region were abandoned and typical local products were replaced with foreign and mass-produced alternatives. Many young people don’t know about rehani thanës and very few old people continue to make it.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 117 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 118 118 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA S S T N E I D E R G N I N MILK ATURAL is generally made in August or September. When fresh,it isslightly other villages inGjirokastra County, southern Albania. Salcë shakullit animal skinsack.Itistypical of themountain pastures of Përmet and alcë shakullitisaproduct madefrom drained yogurt agedinan CHEESE N. CATEGORY Y

PRODUCTS M OGURT S ALT

ILK FERMENTS 48

AND

YOGURT CREAM (SALCË SHAKULLIT) IN A SACK WITH T CONSIDERED AND AND THE AND ADDED OUT FOR YOGURT OUT SHAVED THEN ATTACHED B F HE INALLY Y

5-6 .

SKIN PROCESS THEN HUNG

MOISTURE SPOIL THE N IT OVEMBER

DAILY

, O , OFF IS

AND

W DAYS THE

, SLAUGHTERING IS THE

FOR

SEWN THE

RE TO

READY UNTIL

THEN CURED SACK

FOR SACK , ,

, - IS

THE ABOUT CREATE SALTED AND THE YOGURT

UP READY MAKING

A N O I T A R A P E R P

THE OUTSIDE

IS FOR IS

SACK

WITH BIT SALTED

15 CLOSED

INFLATED .

SACK

A .

A CONSUMPTION

OF OF

T THAT

DAYS

CLEAN FTER SALT THE STOPS HE

SALT A OF

IS MILK

FILL

GOAT

FOR

FINAL

SKIN

;

THE ONLY THIS AND

COMPLETELY AS .

WITH

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T ( LOSING

WITH

GOOD HE

WHEY SACK

WHICH

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HUNG PERIOD PRODUCT

ONE

SKIN AIR .

SHEEP

APPROXIMATELY

SEEPS STARTS ,

ENSURING WHEY

OPENING

IN SO

AND IS FERMENTS RUBBED

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, 25-30 THE

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, 10/6/20 9:07AM GVIEQ] ERH WEPX] [MXL E HMWXMRGX ǼEZSV SJ ERMQEP ERH LIVFW [MXL XMQI ERH further aging, it becomes milder, crumbly, and piquant.

This product is linked to the old tradition of using leather containers to transport and conservation food products such as cheese, salt, and rakiERHSXLIVǼYMHW It belongs to the “cheese in a sack” family, one of the oldest kinds of cheese in 119 the world, typical of the Balkan peninsula and Anatolia.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Salcë shakullit is a unique traditional Albanian product geographically linked to PRODUCTS

the area around Përmet: The shepherds of Trebeshinë, Dhëmbel, Nemërckë, and Postenan are the ones who discovered this method of hanging drained yogurt to conserve it for long periods of time. It is an important source of food for the herders because they can carry it easily when they travel to the pastures with their animals.

The product is culturally linked to the Aromanian community of southern PROCESSED Albania. Aromanians are an Orthodox Christian ethnic group of the Balkans, ERHXLSWIPMZMRKMR&PFERMEVIQEMRIHWSQI[LEXMRWYPEXIHJVSQXLIMRǼYIRGIW of the Communist regime.

Salcë shakullit is not sold commercially, but made for personal consumption by herders. It is nearly unknown outside of the Përmet region, so market opportunities for this product are limited. It is mainly consumed as a starter, or served for breakfast.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The number of herders who still graze their animals in the high mountain pastures of southern Albania is diminishing very quickly, so many of their XVEHMXMSREPTVSHYGXWEVIIRHERKIVIH.REHHMXMSRMXMWZIV]HMǽGYPXJSVPSGEPHEMV] producers to make these products while also complying with new hygiene rules adopted to bring Albania in line with European Union regulations. Without complying with these standards, traditional products cannot reach the wider QEVOIXXLYWQEOMRKMXHMǽGYPXJSVTVSHYGIVWXSQEOIEPMZMRK

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 119 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 120 120 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T V EGETABLES Y ONIONS M OGURT ILK S T N E I D E R G N I CEREALS W ( S FOR W ATER ( ( ALT , CATEGORY RED FOR FOR HEAT with sweet tarhana(made with whole milk,usually from goats), sour plain in southwestern Albania). Several variations of this product exist, particularly inKorçë County (southeastern Albania) andMyzeqe (a rahana (

S (

OPTIONAL

WEET

AND PEPPERS

OPTIONAL SOUR RED F LOUR

FLOURS TRAHANA TRAHANA

TRAHANA , ) TOMATOES ) is a wheat-based product that iseaten throughout Albania, N.

) ) ) 49 , T THE AND TARHANA THE W DOUGH WHICH HE OODEN TRAHANA

THUMB

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. IS

T , CONTAINER

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TYPICALLY AND BASED WITH

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WITH THE

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THEN SOUR SMALL

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OF FOR IS

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IER

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, OR

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AS OR COUNTIES WHEAT

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, 10/6/20 9:07AM tarhana (made with yogurt), and red tarhana (made with red pepper, tomato, and onion) being among the most representative types. In some regions, IWTIGMEPP]2EPPEOEWXVEMR+MIV(SYRX]XVELEREMWQEHIF]QM\MRK[LIEXǼSYV with a clear meat broth.

121

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

The trahana produced in Albania belongs to a wider family of homemade staples produced throughout the Balkans and Anatolia, and their origin is as ancient as agriculture. Trahana or tarhana, in turn, are link to the middle eastern

and Persian tradition of Keshk (or keshek). They all are linked to a slightly PRODUCTS fermented mix of a cereal and milk (or yogurt), which is left to ferment and then dehydrated. Traditionally trahana was a way to preserve a stample for the winter times. It has always been prepared by housewives and girls during autumn for use as a winter provision. Young children, too, often help make it. During the 7-10 days when the women of the household are making it, virtually every available surface in the house is covered with trays of drying trahana. PROCESSED This product is used to make a kind of thick soup by adding a few spoons of it to boiling water or broth. Leftover bread is also added, and the soup is garnished with fresh butter or a drizzle of olive oil, red pepper, and feta cheese. There are many regional, local, and family recipes for tarhana. In some regions, the pudding is cooked with chopped onions or leeks, caramelized in a pan with lard. This sauce makes trahana particularly tasty. Children love tarhana, and it has been introduced into some school canteens.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Very few families continue to make trahana, although what little production remains still takes place primarily at the household level, with just two or three companies in Albania producing it commercially. Producing artisanal trahana by LERHVIUYMVIWKVIEXHIHMGEXMSRERHIǺSVX*ZIRXLSYKLWSQIWQEPPIRXIVTVMWIW have automated production, people generally prefer the handmade trahana. For over 2 decades, many Albanians stopped producing their own tarhana, but in the last 5 years or so, domestic production has begun to rise and the creation of cooperatives that produce handmade and traditional products has made trahana more marketable.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 121 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 122 122 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA (HOSHAF ME KUMBULLAT E ZEZA TË TROPOJËS) T S T N E I D E R G N I (P BLACK PLUM HOSHAF FRUIT RUNUS P CATEGORY LUM are harvested from June to October. Compared to other varieties in This mountainous area hasacontinental climate and the plums mostly in Tropoja, northern Albania, near theborder with Kosovo. he Tropoja black plum is a local variety of

PRESERVES

DOMESTICA

FRUITS

)

N. 50 T STILL SPECIFIC FOR TRADITIONAL O TROPOJA

PREPARE

THE

PROCESS

PLUMS

FEATURE

HOSHAF

IRON

. PLUMS T

HIS

OF OVENS N O I T A R A P E R P ,

THE TECHNIQUE THE THIS

HARVESTED T WITH

W ROPOJA AY

. TW T

IS HE O

LOCALLY

AREA Prunus domestica cultivated CHAMBERS TECHNIQUE PLUMS ,

AND

D O H T E M ARE

CONSIDERED

ONLY W IS ONE ASHED

FOR A PRODUCTION RISK

HANDFUL

AND

A THE

T TRUE (K

ROPOJA THEN

FIRE DYING UKËS

ART OF

BAKED AND

)

PEOPLE

OUT AND AREA

ONE .

10/6/20 9:07AM &PFERMEXLI8VSTSNEFPEGOTPYQLEWEXPIEWX QSVIWYKEVGSRXIRXEǻVQIV consistency, and better resistance to disease and pests. It is known for its dark color (hence the name “black plum”).

Wild or cultivated plums are traditionally cut and then hung in strands close to XLIǻVITPEGIXSHV]XLYWFIGSQMRKhoshaf. Though Tropoja plums are known 123 for their sweetness, those used to make hoshaf can sometimes be quite acidic—indeed, hoshaf is made in part to render sour plums more palatable.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ PRODUCTS

Plum hoshaf is an important resource for local producers and the local economy, and its production involves 600-800 seasonal workers, employed during the harvest season. Currently, around 140 small- to medium-scale producers have this plum as their primary source of income.

This fruit has a strong connection with the livelihoods of the local population.

Besides hoshaf, the plums are transformed in jams, compotes, and raki (the PROCESSED national, traditionally distilled beverage). It is also very common to dry the plums under the sun or in a normal oven.

Tropoja black plums are considered to possesses remarkable curative properties, and the compote made from this variety is used to treat respiratory diseases.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

8LMWZEVMIX]MWHMǺIVIRXJVSQSXLIVZEVMIXMIWERHRIIHWXSFITVSQSXIHSRXLI national market, not only within the community. Even though the product is highly valued, and sales volumes have increased in recent years from 431 to 1,600 tonnes, this geographical indication is threatened by generalization: Further away from the area of origin, consumers are often misled by other varieties being labelled as Tropoja black plums. Less and less people today produce tropoja black plum hoshaf, and this tradition is quickly disappearing.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 123 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 124 124 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T S T N E I D E R G N I C OIL ORNELIAN ( C CATEGORY

ORNUS AND QER]HMǺIVIRXGYPMREV]ETTPMGEXMSRW Albanian asthana. This tree grows throughout theBalkans andhas cornelian cherry tree, alsoknown ascornel or dogwood, known in his vinegar isatraditional product madefrom theripefruitsof the S UGAR

VINEGAR

CHERRY VINEGAR CHERRIES

MAS

) N.

51 (UTHULLA E THANËS) CORNELIAN T CONTAINERS CONSUMED VINEGAR NEEDED W S HE ATER UGAR

FRUITS

, FOR

WHICH IT

HELP

IS AT ARE I , T INCLUDING

LEFT IS LEAST

THE IS PICKED

NOT

N O I T A R A P E R P TO USUALLY

FERMENTATION 30-40

FILTERED REST

WHEN DEMIJOHNS

FOR OBTAINED

DAYS , THEY

AND A

. SHORT

ARE . IN IS NCE

W IN STORED

RIPE

OODEN

PERIOD

IT D D O H T E M

IBRA

HAS AND

BOXES

FINISHED

AND TO LARGE THEN WN PRODUCTION

, OR LEFT

D BOTTLES THEN MAY

IBRA

FERMENTING SMALL

BE READY C

FERMENT

OUNTY OR ADDED BARRELS

GLASS AREA TO , THE

BE IN IF .

10/6/20 9:07AM The leaves of Cornus mas are oblong with a pronounced pointy tip and HMWXMRGXMZIZIREXMSR8LMW XVII ǼS[IVW MR +IFVYEV] ERH 2EVGL ERH XLI JVYMXW ripen in August. Cornelian cherries have the shape of an olive or oblong cherry; they are yellow and red and have a delicate sour taste that comes through nicely in the vinegar obtained from these fruits. 125 In Dibra County, northeastern Albania, cornelian cherry vinegar is used as an everyday beverage and also as a cooking ingredient.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ PRODUCTS

The people of Mount Korab, on the Albania-Macedonia border, live in relative isolation and have a distinct gastronomic culture. Cornelian cherry vinegar has strong socio-cultural value in the mountain communities; it is drunk on a regular basis and used in cooking and to season salads dressing). It is also used medicinally for stomach aches, as a diuretic, and to treat diarrhea and hypersensitivity. In the morning, it is drunk with honey or sherbet (a sweetened drink). It can also be applied to snake bites and used to treat head lice. PROCESSED

The use of cornelian cherries has historically been widespread in the Balkans; it was often made into wine, which quickly turned to vinegar, and northern Albania is one of the places where the tradition of producing this vinegar is still very much alive.

Each family in the mountain communities produces its own batch of vinegar. This product is not sold on the market.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The increasing use of mass-produced vinegars, largely available on commercial market, seriously endangers the transmission of the culinary knowledge concerning the homemade production of cornelian cherry vinegar. This XVEHMXMSREPTVSHYGXWLSYPHFITVSXIGXIHFIGEYWISJMXWQER]LIEPXLFIRIǻXW 8LIYWISJ[MPHGSVRIPMERGLIVVMIWERHXLIPEGOSJǻPXIVMRKKMZIGSVRIPMERGLIVV] vinegar unique properties.

NOMINATOR: ANDREA PIERONI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 125 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 126 126 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA K N. olive isconsidered goodas both atableolive andfor oil production. EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVEOIL 52 K S T N E I D E R G N I OKËRRMADH OIL CATEGORY

AND widely planted kokërrmadhBerati variety. The kokërrmadh Elbasani its name). Itshouldnot beconfused with thebetter known andmore Albania, particularly inElbasanCounty (from which the variety takes okërrmadh Elbasaniisatraditional olive variety cultivated incentral OLIVE ELBASAN KOKËRRMADH

VINEGAR E LBASANI

(VOJ ULLIRI) JARS TO CYCLE MILLS W THAT T O HE ITHOUT CTOBER

DECANT

OLIVE

FAMILIES , THAT

PRESSES W

HICH

MODERN

AND

HARVEST HAVE NATURALLY

PERFORMED

ARE GOES MADE

BEEN

N O I T A R A P E R P EQUIPMENT EQUIPPED IN

OUT

FOUND

IN A

LBANIA

UNTIL

STAINLESS OF TOGETHER

W IN

. W OOD F

T THE TRADITIONALLY EBRUARY ITH HE .

STEEL CELLARS A H SMALL OLIVES FTER ARVESTING ,

TANKS AND

ACIDITY

OR D O H T E M

OF ARE

IT STARTS

. MEDIUM HISTORIC

S W IS PRESSED

TORAGE AS ANALYSIS

MOSTLY

PRODUCTION

TRADITIONALLY AT - SIZED

HOUSES THE

IN DONE , E

THE

OFTEN LBASAN

BEGINNING COOPERATIVE CONTINUOUS

. OIL MANUALLY

A IS AREA

CLAY

TASK LEFT

OF ,

10/6/20 9:07AM The interaction of this variety with the local environment and cultural practices VIWYPXWMRXLIWTIGMEPGLEVEGXIVMWXMGWERHHMWXMRGXMZIǼEZSVSJXSXLISMPTVSHYGIH in Elbasan. The climate of Elbasan is transitional, and this olive variety is relatively resilient to cold weather.

The olives themselves are medium sized (typically 3 grams, of which the stone 127 accounts for half a gram), and oval shaped. The oil yield is relatively high, at about 22% by weight.

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Elbasan kokërrmadh olives have been cultivated since Medieval times. PRODUCTS

Recently, around 300 olive growers from the region have come together to form the FBE (Agricultural Federation of Elbasan) with the goal of developing and improving the district’s local products, especially olive oil, which points to the continued importance of this product. There are three cooperative mills. Olive trees and olive oil have always been part of the physical and

social landscape of Elbasan, and families often purchase oil in large quantities PROCESSED directly from the producers. The oil is also sold to restaurants and markets.

4PMZI SMP MW GSRWMHIVIH ER IǺIGXMZI REXYVEP VIQIH] ERH MW YWIH MR RIEVP] EPP traditional regional dishes and salads, and as a butter substitute in local recipes such as tavë kosi (a traditional dish made with lamb, rice, and yogurt, cooked in the oven) and tave pistili (similar, but without yogurt, and with beef and plums).

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Elbasan kokërrmadh oil is deeply linked with the local area, and the variety in its pure form cannot be found elsewhere. In the past 40 years, no new individual trees of this variety have been planted, and the trees do not have a high level of resistance to diseases, which puts their future at risk, despite how highly valued the oil is. More recently times, olive growers have begun to abandon this variety in favor of varieties with more commercial viability; the olive oil industry is growing in Albania and mechanized production methods mean that fewer unique local olive oils are available.

NOMINATOR: ANDREA PIERONI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 127 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 128 128 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA G walnuts are pierced with asmall metal implement to seeif they’re ready. S T N E I D E R G N I G P FRUIT G ERANIUM EELED C REEN CATEGORY ITRIC W S L

N. PRESERVES when they are not too green andnot too hard or mature. The unripe is mainly made from unripe walnuts, which should be harvested FIQEHIJVSQQER]HMǺIVIRXJVYMXWERHZIKIXEFPIW MR5µVQIXKPMOS liko isasweet preserve that isoften served with spiritsor juice. Itcan EMON UGAR

ATER ALMONDS W

ALNUTS FLO ACID

53 WERS

WALNUT GLIKO (GLIKO ARRE) PUT A FOR LEFT EACH GERANIUM AND THEN WITH BEING T HEN FTER

700 INTO LONG

LEMON BOILED

THEY W

CHANGED

THE ALNUT COOL

- A

ML TERM FLO

ARE

GREEN POT

AND IN

, WERS OF AND

AND

SOAKED

SYRUP STORAGE TO

SEVERAL SUGAR W

N O I T A R A P E R P

THEN W ATER

BOIL EVERYTHING ARE ALNUTS

PREPARED

, IN

PLACED THEN FOR

AND FOR OR TIMES

COLD

3-4 SALE

ARE EACH

BOILED ADDED .

W N

IN FROM . COLLECTED ATER

EXT

MINUTES BOILED KILOGRAM GLASS

. AGAIN , A

THEY FOR SUGAR

PEELED

CONTAINERS AGAIN

D O H T E M

TO SEVERAL , T ARE

HUS THEY OF

AND SOFTEN

ALMOND

. PEELED NUTS

F PREPARED

W INALLY ARE

DAYS PRODUCTION ATER

, ). THEIR

, ( WHICH

G CUT C PLACED IS , (1 , JIROKASTRA WITH ITRIC

THE P , INSERTED

THE KG OUTER ËRMET IN

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MIXTURE

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OF HALF ACID NUTS IN

SEALED

SUGAR W W LAYER AREA

INTO ATER ATER

) AND AND ARE

IS .

10/6/20 9:07AM The walnut trees in Përmet are allowed to grow naturally, so they become quite tall. They grown near forest patches where the humidity is higher (especially near springs, small creeks, rivers) and prefer soft soil where they can spread their roots IEWMP]8LI[EPRYXWYWIHXSTVSHYGIKPMOSEVIZIV]WQEPPERHUYMXIǻVQ

129

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Walnut gliko is a typical product of Përmet, in southern Albania. The production of walnut gliko begins at the end of May and continues through the end of July, before the maturation of the fruit. Gliko production is one of the principal agricultural traditions in Përmet. Every family produces gliko for its own PRODUCTS

needs, and local housewives compete to see who produce the best gliko. The traditional restaurants of the area also produce gliko, which they serve as EHIWWIVXERHXLIVIEVIWSQIEVXMWEREPJEGXSVMIWXLEXTVSHYGIHMǺIVIRXX]TIW of gliko, including walnut gliko. Gliko is served during festivities, celebrations, and important family occasions (such as engagements, weddings, or birthday parties), and to welcome guests. Numerous visitors in Përmet buy gliko as a PROCESSED souvenir or a gift for their friends.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The product is in need of attention because the younger generations do not show interest in traditional local culinary traditions. Also, because they grow QSVISVPIWW[MPHMXMWHMǽGYPXXSGSPPIGXPEVKIUYERXMXMIWSJ[EPRYXWJSVKPMOS production. The number of people still producing it at a household level is diminishing, and there is only one small company that produces artisanal walnut gliko for the local and national market.

ȋȺȇȃȜȨȕȧȨȨȲȸȀȇȃȄȲȄȎȣ

The production of gliko could become a resource for the development of the local economy. However, the lack of adequate marketing of gliko’s qualities has exposed it to competition from industrial equivalents made in other regions of southern Albania, which are sold with the same name and are usually cheaper. Slow Food will work with producers (and orchard owners) to establish which local fruit varieties are best suited to the production of gliko; improve product quality and packaging; and promote gliko on the national and international market, making it a tool for preserving the biodiversity of the Vjosa Valley. The RSRTVSǻXSVKERM^EXMSR(*:.[MPPGSPPEFSVEXI[MXLXLI5VIWMHMYQXSVIRSZEXIE production workshop and ensure that it meets current regulations.

NOMINATOR: ANDREA PIERONI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 129 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 130 130 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA H N. 54 S T N E I D E R G N I (M FRUIT ALUS W CATEGORY ILD

PRESERVES SYLVESTRIS from wild apples. The taste of thefruitsis very acidic when they to render themedible.In central Albania, hoshaf isoften prepared wild fruitsthat are too sour or otherwise donot taste good,inorder oshaf isthelocal word for adried fruitproduct that ismadefrom

APPLES (HOSHAFI IMOLLËVE TË EGRA) WILD APPLE HOSHAF )

BUT HUMIDITY MADE U O NRIPE NCE

THEY

INTO

DRIED

APPLES

. ARE

T CHAINS HE ,

THE ALSO

HOSHAF ARE

PRODUCT

AND N O I T A R A P E R P

REHYDRATED CUT

HUNG

CAN IN

HALF IS

THEN

EATEN IN OR

BOILING

KEPT INTO TO

WITHOUT THE

IN VERY

FIREPLACE D O H T E M A W

ATER PART

THIN

COUNTIES FURTHER ( PARTS

WITH

OF SLICES

PRODUCTION OR

THE

OF SOME

IN G TRANSFORMATION

) . D HOUSE

AND OLLOBORDO T THE HESE IBRA

SUGAR

K SUN

WITH ORÇË ARE AND

. AREA

THEN DRY C

LO LBASAN W OUNTY . ,

10/6/20 9:07AM are collected, and many are unripe. Once they have been dried, the taste is sweeter and has a slightly chewy texture. Hoshaf is either eaten dry or boiled, in which case the cooked fruits are consumed together with the resulting liquid.

131

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

Gollobordo refers to an area in eastern Albania bordering Macedonia (there is a Macedonian minority living in the Albanian part of the region). The villages SJ,SPPSFSVHSEVIGYVVIRXP]MRLEFMXIHF]2YWPMQJEQMPMIWFYXYRXMPXLIǻVWXLEPJ of the 20th century, the population of the Macedonian villages was mostly PRODUCTS

Orthodox Christian. The local economy is based on small-scale agriculture and sheep herding. Apples have been an important resource throughout the history of this area: They are used to produce vinegar and also to help start the fermentation of bread and yogurt. Wild apple hoshaf is a very important food for children; adults also enjoy it as a snack, especially with tea. The product is EXXVMFYXIH[MXLHMǺIVIRXLIEPMRKTVSTIVXMIWERHGERFIXEOIREWEPMKLXPE\EXMZI PROCESSED

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

Wild apple hoshaf is produced in very limited quantities in Gollobordo. It is mainly the older generation that still engages in picking and transforming wild fruits; although they remain committed to their traditional practices, they also heavily rely on remittances from their relatives abroad. Overall, fewer people are involved in activities that deal with the surrounding natural environment because many leave the area to go and live in Tirana for half the year and only come back during the summer for a few months, so many traditional food production techniques have been abandoned.

NOMINATOR: ANDREA PIERONI

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 131 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 132 132 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA B DISTILLED S T N E I D E R G N I B (R CATEGORY BEVERAGES LACKBERRIES UBUS exclusively with wild blackberriescollected mostly inareas over 800 traditional brandy of theBalkans, andthisparticular version ismade centuries inthemountainous areas of northern Albania. Raki isthe lackberry raki (raki manaferre in Albanian) hasbeenproduced for

AND BLACKBERRY RAKI

SPP FERMENTED (RAKI MANAFERRE TË EGËR) .)

N. 55 W B INVOLVED IS THE TO AND OF LACKBERRY

ELL

TRADITIONALLY RELEASE NO

LIQUID THE -

RIPENED MORE

SUGAR

IS THE

THE THAN

RAKI DISTILLED

WILD

BLACKBERRY

AROMA CONTENT

PRODUCTION

CONSIDERED 2 IS N O I T A R A P E R P

TO PRODUCED

3 IN

THE WEEKS COPPER

FRUITS

THE

BERRIES OF

, IN BERRIES

MEN RAKI DEPENDING

ARE

STILLS LATE ’ S

AND FERMENTED

DRINK . A

A HEATED

UGUST

THE S D O H T E M

SOON ON , P

AND FERMENTATION UKA

THE AND

WITH IN

, M AS MEN

OAK

AMBIENT PRODUCTION

EARLY

THE T ALËSI A

ROPOJA

HAVE VATS W

OOD ALCOHOL

P S E

SLO M ËRMET FOR TEMPERATURE AL EPTEMBER

FIRE (K W ADHE W

AYS A S UKËS

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STARTS DO AREA

( BEEN S WN . ), HKODRA I T ,

), 10/6/20 9:07AM QIXIVW EFSZI WIE PIZIP 'PEGOFIVVMIW EVI EQSRK XLI[MPH TPERXW XLEX ǻKYVI prominently in the gastronomy of highland communities in northern Albania, and locals work hard to preserve this tradition.

Blackberries grow wild throughout Albania, but in the south of the country this fruit has not traditionally been used to make raki. However, in the last 30 years, 133 blackberry raki production has started to spread to southern Albania.

This spirit can be colorless or yellowish when aged in wooden barrels. It has ERI\XVESVHMREV]WPMKLXP]W[IIXǼEZSVERHEVSQEERHMWZIV]TPIEWERXXSHVMRO

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ PRODUCTS

Blackberry raki is a spirit with a long history, and used to be consumed only by men—the only women who were allowed to drink it were burrnesha (Albanian sworn virgins). In the past raki was used a curative drink to stimulate blood circulation and prevent hangover (after a night of drinking, one shot would

be taken after breakfast). PROCESSED

Because grapes do not grow in the mountains of northern Albania, residents of this region have no tradition of making and consuming grape brandies; rather, they have always used forest fruits to produce spirits. Wild berries that ripen well and reach a high sugar content can be made into raki of very high quality. Blackberry raki was always served at weddings and other family celebrations, as well as during men’s gatherings in the village squares (there was always someone with a bottle of raki in his pocket, and when the men of the village gathered for discussions, they would pass it around the table).

Blackberry raki was historically produced at the household level. Commercial production began only in the last 20 years in several distilleries around Kukës. These companies sell through supermarket chains throughout Albania. &GGSVHMRK XS XLI PSGEPW XLI XEWXI SJ XLMW GSQQIVGMEP FPEGOFIVV] VEOM HMǺIVW greatly from the artisanal version.

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The quality of the product is endangered as part of it is harvested for export and that amount destined for raki production is collected from non-respectable industrial or catering companies and the craftsmanship, starting from storage through oak trees or other traditional processing techniques is not followed.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 133 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 134 134 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA G S T N E I D E R G N I FRUIT C R CATEGORY W ITRIC OSE N. S

ILD PRESERVES in themountains amdare harvested from April to May. Gliko is XEPP[MXLFVERGLMRKXVYROW;MPHǻKWKVS[EPSRKVMZIVWERHWXVIEQW around Përmet insouthern Albania. Figtrees are short(6-10 meters ĮĞīŇƐĀīƣƐĞƐåďêŹƐ UGAR

JUICE

FIGS ACID 56

(GLIKO FIKU IEGËR) WILD FIG GLIKO MWEX]TISJTVIWIVZIQEHIJVSQ[MPHǻKWTVITEVIH O AND AND BOILING OF ARE IN BOILED PIERCED

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COLD SUGAR

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COLLECTED FOR

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ATER JUICE FOR ATER

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10/6/20 9:07AM usually prepared with the fruits that are not fully ripe or otherwise unsuitable JSVFIMRKGSRWYQIHVE[;MPHǻKKPMOSMWEHIWWIVXXLEXMWWIVZIHSRMXWS[R

ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ 135

;MPHǻKKPMOSLEWFIIRTVSHYGIHMR5µVQIXJSVEXPIEWX]IEVW.XMWSJXIR consumed at celebrations such as family feasts (e.g. for engagements and weddings), and to welcome guests into the home. In addition to being made JSVLSYWILSPHYWI[MPHǻKKPMOSGERFIJSYRHMRPSGEPQEVOIXW-S[IZIVXLI UYERXMX]MWPMQMXIHFIGEYWIXLIǻKWEVIRSXGYPXMZEXIHERHMXMWHMǽGYPXXSǻRH PRODUCTS

[MPHǻKWMRPEVKIUYERXMXMIW

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

;MPH ǻK KPMOS MW EX VMWO SJ HMWETTIEVMRK FIGEYWI ]SYRKIV KIRIVEXMSRW LEZI PROCESSED little interest in local culinary traditions. Therefore, the number of people still producing this product at home is diminishing, and there is only one small GSQTER] XLEX TVSHYGIW [MPH ǻK KPMOS EX ER EVXMWER PIZIP JSV XLI PSGEP ERH national market.

ȋȺȇȃȜȨȕȧȨȨȲȸȀȇȃȄȲȄȎȣ

The production of gliko could become a resource for the development of the local economy. However, the lack of adequate marketing of gliko’s qualities has exposed it to competition from industrial counterparts, made in other regions of southern Albania, which are sold with the same name and are usually cheaper. Slow Food will work with producers (and orchard owners) to establish which local fruit varieties are best suited to the production of gliko; improve product quality and packaging; and promote gliko on the national and international market, making it a tool for preserving the biodiversity of the Vjosa :EPPI]8LIRSRTVSǻXSVKERM^EXMSR(*:.[MPPGSPPEFSVEXI[MXLXLI5VIWMHMYQXS renovate a production workshop and ensure that it meets current regulations.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 135 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 136 136 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T October to November. [LMXISVTMROMWLǼS[IVWERHXLIJVYMXW [LMGLEVISVERKIXSVIHVMTIRJVSQ N. DISTILLED S T N E I D E R G N I 57 W (R CATEGORY BEVERAGES ILD OSA kind of wine. The roses bloomhipfrom May to July, with delicate Përmet, insouthern Albania, wild rosehips are used to produce a a bushthat produces red fruitsknown asrosehips; inthearea around he wild rose or dogrose, which islocally known asƒŹêĻÚ±ĀĮĞƐĞƐåďêŹ, is

AND

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CANINA

FERMENTED WILD ROSEHIP WINE (VERË TRENDAFILI TË EGËR) )

FILTERED THE AND KILOGRAM T 30 30 HE

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10/6/20 9:07AM ȸȀȨȲȎșȋȺȄȃȋȨȀȚ

This product is valued for its medicinal properties and is used to treat various

ailments, including anemia and arthritis. It also possesses antidiabetic 137 TVSTIVXMIWLIPTWXSTVIZIRXQIPERSQEMWFIRIǻGMEPJSVXLILIEVXERHMQQYRI system, and is particularly rich in vitamin C. The annual production of wild rosehip wine is quite low. Although very small quantities are sometimes available at local markets, it is mostly produced for personal or family consumption. The use of rosehips is quite widespread in Albania, but they are more typically made into jams or tisanes. Rosehip wine is an artisanal product

[MXLWTIGMǻGWSGMSGYPXYVEPZEPYIMRXLIJI[GSQQYRMXMIWXLEXQEOIMX PRODUCTS

șȎȀȀȇȤȋȃȋȷȋȎȃ

The tradition of making wild rosehip wine is being lost because it is made from PROCESSED wild harvested fruits and the production process is time consuming and a little tricky. Rural to urban migration means that there are fewer people in the rural communities who continue to harvest and process the wild fruits. It is still quite common for Albanians to use rosehips in other ways, but there is very little demand for the wine.

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 137 10/6/20 9:07 AM GET INTO THE FUTURE OF FOOD! And study at a university located at a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ideal place to immerse yourself in the world of food

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Anuncios_ENG.indd 5 18/08/2020 20:59 ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 138 10/6/20 9:07 AM GET INTO THE FUTURE OF FOOD! And study at a university located at a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ideal place to immerse yourself in the world of food șȺȷȸȋȇȀ ȋȀȷȲȄȋȄȨȤȷȜ ® Photo Marcello Marengo ȀȇșȄȸȄȇȃ ® Photo Yoni Nimrod, UNISG student

® Photo Marcello Marengo

® Photo Aarón Gómez Figueroa, UNISG alumni

unisg.it @ UNISG #XQLVJBRIƓFLDO

Anuncios_ENG.indd 5 18/08/2020 20:59 ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 139 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 140 140 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA warm. the moment when theinner burek layers separate. Serve walnut burek while min. Constantly check that thenutsare not burning. Walnut burek isready at dough created over thesurface of thepieandplace intheoven at 150for 45 creamy mass. With thehelpof akitchen brushor spoon,spread themassof SJ[LIEXǼSYVERHEPMXXPIWEPX2M\XLIWIMRKVIHMIRXWXSKIXLIVERHGVIEXIE Take aglassof lukewarm water andmix with 3tablespoonsof oil,1tablespoon as desired. action by liningthepielayers oneafter theother andmakingapiethickness Soak the dry crumbled burek layer with the mass of walnuts. Repeat this dry (baked) burek doughlayer over it. over it.Spray someoil over thebyrek surface andstartbreaking (crumble) the Oil-coat thesurface of a30cmdiameter pan,andapply afresh burek layer thick layers. Bake eachlayer onthesurface of astove aset themaside. divide itinsmall ballsandstartlayering theminto 30-cm-diameter and1-mm- XLIǼSYV;SVOXLIHSYKLYRXMPMXFIGSQIWLSQSKIRISYWERHWSJXERHXLIR Start preparing theBurek doughby adding water andagreat pinch of saltto 30° C. minutes, andthenlet itrest. Let thenutsand water cool to atemperature of liters of water andapinchof salt.Heat the water andlet itboil for about30 Cut thecleanednutsinto small pieces andplace theminapot with about1.5 To prepare the walnut Burek we needto follow thislineof work: P N. I C HEF 3SVXL(IRXVEP&PFERMEEZIV]WTIGMǻGTMIMWTVITEVIH[MXL[EPRYXW hyllo doughisamajor tradition across theBalkans. IntheMirdite region

A F E H C MIRDITË WALNUT BUREK LTIN P RENGA ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ L A N O I S S E F O R P M RIZI

I Z ANAVE , F ISHTA

T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 141 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ TRADITIONAL For 6 persons

500 g walnuts

KǼSYVX]TISV

200-250 ml water

250 ml oil

salt

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 141 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 142 142 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA E the lamb.Bake for approximately 45minutes. Serve immediately. taste. Lay lambpieces outinacasserole dish.Pour the yogurt mixture around pepper, andthegravy which hascooled down. You may addmore salt,to Preheat theoven to 350F. Inalarge bowl, whisk together eggs, yogurt, rice, Let cool. until thickandcontinue stirringconstantly. You are essentially makinggravy. turn thecolor of light peanutbutter, beginaddingthe water or broth?. Heat until they blend and cook together. When the mixture thickens and begins to 2IER[LMPIQIPXFYXXIVMREWQEPPWOMPPIXSZIVQIHMYQLIEX&HHǼSYVERHWXMV for 1hour. pot andcover with water or broth. Add agenerous amount of saltandsimmer You may have to sear justafew pieces at atime. Add all pieces backinto the In alarge pot over medium-high heat, sear thelambonall sides.Donot crowd. N. N AIM is from mid-July to September andconsumed lukewarm. Albania butoriginates from thecity of Elbasan.Period of consumption lbasani Tava or Yogurt Casserole isaspecial dishcooked all over F E H C II B ASHMILI ELBASANI TAVA

ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ L A N O I S S E F O R P G ASTRONOMY

TEACHER

T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 143 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

For 4 persons TRADITIONAL

1,5 kilos lamb, cut into 10 pieces

500-600 ml broth from lamb

2 tablespoons butter

XEFPIWTSSRWǼSYV

4 eggs

750 ml albanian yogurt

1 tablespoon white rice

salt

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 143 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 144 144 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA F chopped parsley. Serve warm. MXWS[RLIEXJSVEXPIEWXQMRTVMROPIJVIWLI\XVEZMVKMRSPMZISMPERHǻRIP] cream, salt,pepper, peperoncino, cover with lidandcook fergese slowly with QMR&HHGSXXEKIGLIIWIQM\PMKLXP]GEVIJYPP]VIHYGIǼEQIEHHIKKW[MXL lid), addthetomato cubes,tomato sauce, stir with aspoonof GSZIV[MXL wood for about QMRYXIW JSV ǼEQI VIHYGIH MR 1IEZI TITTIVW GLSTTIH ERH 5VITEVEXMSR 5YXETERSZIVXLIǼEQIEHHSPMZISMPKEVPMGǻRIP]WPMGIHSRMSRW onion andgarlicthinly. and saltto the white cheese,beat theeggs with themilkcream, chopone tomatoes, remove theskinandcuttheminto small cubes. Add someolive oil Pre-Preparation: Peel thepeppersandcuttheminto thindisks,thenpeel the to late autumn. olive oil following acertain timeandtechnique. Fërgesë iscooked from spring spices. All theseingredients are subjectto frying(slow cooking) inextra virgin G EZIM Albanian cottage cheese(called or gjizë) white cheeseanddry Elbasan. Itsbasicmainingredients are onions, garlic,tomatoes, which includestowns andcitiesof Tirana, Durrës, Kavaja, Shijak, ërgesa isanative dishcooked mainly intheregion of Central Albania, F E H C M USLIAKA N.

III FËRGESA ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ R ESTAURANT L A N O I S S E F O R P M ARCHESI - T

IRANA T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 145 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

For 4 persons TRADITIONAL

3-4 medium size green or red bell peppers

5-6 red tomatoes

1 medium size onion

3 cloves of garlic

10 ml virgin olive oil

2-3 laurel leaves

350 g salted cottage cheese (Albanian Gjize)

Salt

Black pepper

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 145 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 146 146 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA “F in themorning. such as yogurt, pickles, cheese,honey or fruitjam.Inmany areas itiseaten warm. Fli itself is a dish that can be sided with both salty and sweet products with fat. Once thelayers are baked, Fliisleft to cool for 10minutes andserved the pan,hot cover shouldbeplaced over it.Each Flilayer mustbecoated or asitiscalledby local people,“Layer by layer”. Once adoughispoured into If Fliisbaked according to thetraditional way, itsdoughmustbebaked inturn, also bebaked inastove or “Shporet” asitiscalledinlocals’. TERGEOIPE]IVWTPEGIHSRIEJXIVXLISXLIV+PMYWYEPP]MWFEOIHSZIVǻVIFYXGER cooking process! Fliisa very popular Albanian food. Fliissimilar to very thin TVSGIHYVIGSRXMRYIWYRXMPXLI[LSPIHSYKLMWǻRMWLIH layer. Cover again with the lidandcontinue bakingfor another 3-5min. This is coated with theprepared fat. Continue to adddoughandcreate another thin 8LIRXLITERMWWIXSǺXLIǻVIXSGSRXMRYI[MXLXLIRI\XPE]IV8LIFEOIHPE]IV stove with anormal lid? baking Fliinapanfor 3-5minutes. Is there a way to doitat homeonanormal is covered with charcoal, which roast thedough layers from thetop. Continue handle inthecenter of itthat easily attaches agripthat holdsits weight. Saç ǻVIERHMXMWGSZIVIH[MXLEWTIGMEPPMHXLEXPSGEPTISTPIGEPP&E±LEWE covered theentire surface. Traditionally, thepanisset on aslow-burning wood dough prepared onthepananddistribute it well, makingsure thedoughhas Grease thepan(diameter 30-35 cm)all over itssurface. Add alittleof the all theingredients are melted andincorporated . dough like for pancakes. Inasaucepan, meltbutter, milkcream andoil,until 5SYVǼSYVXLIGSPH[EXIVERHXLIWEPXMRXSEHIITGSRXEMRIVERHJSVQEXLMR D HURATA Y B

T N. HANASI IMEI LGQEW MGP] RHVXSHVRXLI HYVMRK HYVEXMSR ERH HMǽGYPX] QIERW [LMGL HIHMGEXI WEMHXLEXƸ+PMƹHIVMZIWMXWREQIJVSQXLIZIVFƸWEGVMǻGIƹ WEGVMǻGI is cooked mainly intheNorth andNortheast of Albania. Itis lija nëSaç” isadishspecialty of traditional Albanian cuisinethat IV

FLI KUKSI ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ L UGA

A L A N O I S S E F O R P RGJENDTË R ESTAURANT -

T T A IRANA 10/6/20 9:07AM 147 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

For the bread bun

For the dough TRADITIONAL

OMPSǼSYV

3-4 cups cold water

salt

For the coating

200 g beef or sheep butter

500 g or 2 cups milk cream cheese or Mazë as the locals call it

3 tablespoons oil

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 147 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 148 148 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA J TVSGIHYVIGSRXMRYIWYRXMPXLI[LSPIHSYKLMWǻRMWLIH layer. Cover again with thelidandcontinue bakingfor another 3-5min. This is coated with theprepared fat. Continue to adddoughandcreate another thin 8LIRXLITERMWWIXSǺXLIǻVIXSGSRXMRYI[MXLXLIRI\XPE]IV8LIFEOIHPE]IV stove with anormal lid? baking Fliinapanfor 3-5minutes. Is there a way to doitat homeonanormal is covered with charcoal, which roast thedoughlayers from thetop. Continue handle inthecenter of itthat easily attaches agripthat holdsits weight. Saç ǻVIERHMXMWGSZIVIH[MXLEWTIGMEPPMHXLEXPSGEPTISTPIGEPP&E±LEWE covered theentire surface. Traditionally, thepanisset onaslow-burning wood dough prepared onthepanand distribute it well, making sure thedough has Grease thepan(diameter 30-35 cm)all over itssurface. Add alittleof the all theingredients are melted andincorporated . dough like for pancakes. Inasaucepan, meltbutter, milkcream andoil,until 5SYVǼSYVXLIGSPH[EXIVERHXLIWEPXMRXSEHIITGSRXEMRIVERHJSVQEXLMR than anhour. joins jufka with farm-fresh chicken to make asimpledishthat isready inless be loved by everyone onthetable.Usually served with meat, therecipe here N. the lightness of angel hair pastaandconsistency of tagliatelle, jufka issure to delicious contributions thisregion hasgiven to Albanian gastronomy. With Dibra region are immensely proud of thisparticular dish, one of many enjoyed eating andservingguestsfor quite some time. People from the dish of thenortheastern region of Albania isone which families have ufka with chicken isasimple,healthy anddeliciousmeal. This traditional V I SMET (DIBRA NOODLES WITH CHICKEN) F E H C JUFKA DIBRE MEPULË S HEHU ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ R ESTAURANT L A N O I S S E F O R P C EREN I SMET S HEHU -

T A T IRANA 10/6/20 9:07AM 149 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ TRADITIONAL For 4 persons

1 farm-fresh chicken

450 g jufka

100 g fresh butter

1 onion

Salt and pepper

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 149 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 150 150 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA K walnuts andlemonleaves on top of it. for additionally 15-20 minutes. Once removed from theoven, addcrushed XLIWIEWSRIHWEYX³SRXSTSJXLIǻWL5PEGIEKEMRXLITERMRXLISZIRERHGSSO Quickly remove thebakingpanfrom theoven, andpour a glass of wine and minutes. the sauté with aglassof white wine andcontinue to cook for nomore than10 minutes together with the bay leaves, garlic, salt,pepper andoregano. Season minutes. Mince thecarrots andaddthemto thefryingpanfor someadditional frying panandaddtheonionscutinto cubicsmall pieces, andfry for afew ;LMPIXLIǻWLMWMRXLISZIRTSYVWSQISPMZISVWYRǼS[IVSMPMREQIHMYQWM^I baking panintheoven andadjusttheoven’s temperature to 200degrees. it. Coat aceramic bakingpan with olive oil andpieces of Koran onit.Putthe kitchen tissues for a few minutes. Then cut it into roll pieces and pour salt on (PIERXLIJVIWL0SVERǻWL[MXLEFYRHERX[EXIVERHPIXMXHVEMRSVGSZIVMX[MXL I LIR dish found inall therestaurants alongthelake. of Pogradec have cooked itfor generations, andthisisthetypical 8LMWVIGMTI[EWGVIEXIHXLEROWXSXLMWVEVIǻWLSJ1EOI4LVMH5ISTPI oran with walnuts Casserole isanoldtraditional recipe of Pogradec. Y B H YSAJ WITH NUTS CASSEROLE N. VI ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ KORAN L A N O I S S E F O R P L E B ON , T IRANA

T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 151 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

OK0SVERǻWL TRADITIONAL

20 ml Olive oil

3 onions

Salt / pepper

A few bay leaves

2 glasses of white wine

250 g walnuts

2 or 3 carrots

5-6 garlic cloves

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 151 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 152 152 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T preparation inorder to thickenthedish, asthemarrow was very thick. ķ±ŹŹŇƾƐƾ±žƐƣžåÚƐƒŇƐžŇüƒåĻƐƒĚåƐķå±ƒũƐƐFĻƐƒĚĞžƐÏ±žåØƐĻŇƐāŇƣŹƐƾ±žƐ±ÚÚåÚƐÚƣŹĞĻďƐƒĚåƐ the proper tenderness. Whereas when cooking the pulp bones a lot of bone parts, butthecooking times vary. Inthetipe,meatisboiled slowly to achieve Ěå±ÚƐŇŹƐƒŹĞŤåũƐĚĞžƐÏŇŇīĞĻďƐƒåÏĚĻĞŭƣåƐĞžƐƒĚåƐž±ķåƐüŇŹƐ±ĮĮƐ±ÆŇƽåƐķåĻƒĞŇĻåÚƐ±ĻĞķ±ĮƐ the left-over of sheep or calf body parts that were not used much, such as legs, cŇƒå×Ɛ{±ÓåƐīŇīåƐŦBå±ÚƐķå±ƒƐƒĚĞÏīƐžŇƣŤŧƐĞžƐ±ƐƒŹ±ÚĞƒĞŇĻ±ĮƐĮÆ±ĻĞ±ĻƐÚĞžĚƐÆ±žåÚƐŇĻƐ salt andblackpepper. Serve warm. TETVMOEERHPIXMXWMQQIVSZIVEWPS[ǻVIJSVEFSYXQMRYXIW&HNYWXMX[MXL then theclear juice where theheads were boiled.Finally addthemeat, alittle wooden spoon and fry until it turns brown. Add the tomato concentrate and .RERSXLIVTSXTSYVXLISMPERHPIXMX[EVQ8LIREHHXLIǼSYVERHQM\[MXLE into small pieces. remove itfrom theliquidandcleanitfrom thebones.Cutobtained meat XLIQIEX[MXLEWPS[IVǻVIJSVEFSYXQMR4RGIXLIQIEXMWJYPP]FSMPIH[I to boil,thefoam that comes to thesurface isremoved. At thispoint cook ERHTITTIVGSVRW5YXXLITSXSRXLIǻVIERHGSZIVMX;LIRXLIQIEXFIKMRW half and place them in a pot covered with cold water. Add one onion, laurel For thepreparation of themeat, wash andclean2lambheads.Cutthemin optionally addedto thedish(1or 2teaspoons per plate). of applecider vinegar. Then addthesalted garlicandstir well. This sauce is mortar, addthicksaltandcook until creamy. Inabowl add 5-6 tablespoons For the preparation of garlic sauce you need thick salt. Pour garlic into the by workers andcarpenters. and it was usually served for breakfast in“Mëngjesore” -restaurants frequented J ULI F E H C is considered astreet food. Paçe was massively eaten in winter time, added ontop. Together with burek, meatballs, shishkebabs atc, Paçe pilaf rice. A sauce prepared with mashed garlic,saltand vinegar is his food iscooked all over Albania andisalways accompanied by Z GURO N. VII ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ PAÇE KOKE L A N O I S S E F O R P T RIBE

RESTAURANT - T IRANA

T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 153 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

Meat preparation

800 g of meat (two heads of lamb)

2-3 cloves of garlic

XFWTǼSYV TRADITIONAL

1 onion

50 ml of oil

4-5 laurel leaves

5-6 grains of black pepper

Salt as desired

2 tbsp tomato concentrate

For vinegar sauce

3-4 garlic cloves

1 pinch of salt

5-6 tbsp of apple vinegar

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 153 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 154 154 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA Q can accompanied with white Albanian cheese, yogurt or dhalle. turn themontheother. Continue doingso with all thepreparation. Fried Qifqi pan. After therice balls(Qifqi) are friedononeside, with the helpof aspoon, point. Take atablespoonof theamount of rice prepared andpour itinto the and leave the frying pan to warm up without bringing the oil to the smoking TVMROPI[MXLWEPXFPEGOTITTIVERHǻREPP]EHHXLIHV]QMRX&HHSMPXSIEGLTMX and leave therice to cool. Add theeggsover therice andmix well with it. GSSO;LIRXLIVMGILEWEFWSVFIHEPPXLI[EXIVWIXSǺXLIǻVIYRHIVXLITSX GLMGOIRWXSGOSVLSX[EXIV1S[IVXLILIEXSJXLIǻVIWPMKLXP]ERHPIXXLIVMGI to melt,addtherice and fry slowly until itbeginsto glaze andaddthe warm 5YXXLIGSSOMRKTSXSZIVXLIǻVIERHEHHXLIFYXXIV4RGIXLIFYXXIVFIKMRW balck pepper, whereas inthecountryside kackaval cheese was added. &PPUMJUMEGSRXEMRGSSOIHVMGIIKKWERHHVMIHQMRX8LIFIXXIVSǺYWIHEPWS with thepilaf left over from weddings. The recipe varies from family to family. production of breast milk. Other people claim that it was originally produced prepared for girls who hadjustgiven birth,asit was believed to accelerate the This dishisassociated with celebrations andbirth. Tradition says that qifqi were by theGjirokastra tinsmiths. M ONDI F E H C and covered with atinlayer. This fryingpanisprepared to thisday pits. The material ofmade of thefryingpanis copper or aluminum in a very special frying pan with pits. The frying pan has four or seven ifqia isatraditional dishof Gjirokastra region. Qifqia isfriedrice balls K IKINO

N. VIII ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ QIFQIA C L A N O I S S E F O R P ONSULTANT

AND F REE

LANCER

T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 155 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

For 4 persons

For rice pilaf TRADITIONAL 150 g rice for pilaf

20 g butter

300 ml chicken broth or hot water

1 tsp of coarse salt

For Qifqi

3 eggs

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp dry mint

1 tsp of black pepper

100 ml olive oil

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 155 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 156 156 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA T a substitute of meat. the dish with Kallmeti wine asitisconsidered to bea very important dishand peel hascovered thetop (almostafter 25-30 minutes) You canaccompany a slow cooking oven. The Shkodra Carpcasserole isready after gelatins oily and tomatoes sauce. Add theshredded parsley andplace thecasserole into rather thendry one.Place Carppartsto aclay wide casserole. Add theonion 3IVHIR3EVHIR8LIǼEQIEP[E]WWXE]WPS[MRSVHIVXSEWWYVIENYMG]WEYGI Add somebay leaves, sugar (to low acidity), pepper andtomatoes concentrate Remove theskinfrom thetomatoes, cuttheminsamll pieces andcook slowly. to thepoint of evaporation. WEPXXLILEPZIWSJKEVPMGERHGSRXMRYIWXMVVMRKMRPS[ǻVIǼEQI&HHXLIZMRIKEV Remove theoil from thepan,fry there theonions. After 5minutes addsome (YXSRMSRWMRNYPMIRRIWPMGIWERHXEOIXLIWEQITER[LIVI]SYJVMIHXLIǻWL Place thetomatoes inboiling water to easetheremoval of theskin. start preparing thesauce, called “Içi” by locals. TVILIEXIHSMP&JXIVXLIJV]MRKMWSZIVTPEGIXLIGLYROWMREǼEXFMKTPEXIERH and leave to drain. Dry thepieces with paper anddeepfry theCarpchunksin head. Afterwards, wash theparts with plenty of water to remove theblood, wide slices,. makingsure you leave asmall partof themeat carpnext to the XLIǻWLERHGEWWIVSPIWEYGIEFMXXIVXEWXI&JXIVXLEXGYXXLI(EVTMRGQ This bonehasatriangular shape, which mustberemoved becauseitgives carcass found inthemouthof thecarp, which inShkodra peoplecall Peth: The Carpiscleansedfrom thescales,inner parts,andinparticular by a in thislake. (EWWIVSPIMWEREYXLIRXMGHMWLSJXLMWVIKMSRERHXLIYRMUYIǻWLMWJSYRHSRP] CHEF G F E H C ZEPSVM^IXLI(EVT[LMGL[EWQEMRǻWLSJLOSHVEPEOILOSHVEƶW(EVT At that time,thecooks called“akshij”developed thisrecipe to the city bazaar intheottoman times. his typical recipe from Shkodra dates backto theestablishment of JON N. CARP CASSEROLE D UKGILAJ IX SHKODRA LAKE ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ G EGË L A N O I S S E F O R P

T OSKË R ESTAURANT , S

HKODËR T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 157 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

4-5 kg fresh Shkodra Lake Carp (male spices are considered the best for this traditional dish) TRADITIONAL 1.5 kg onions

400 gr unpeeled garlic

1 kg of roasted tomatoes or tomatoes concentrated sauce as needed (The people of Shkodra call it Nerden)

1/2 l red wine vinegar

10-15 dried plums

5-6 bay leaves

QPWYRǼS[IVSMP

Pepper, salt, a handful of parsley

1 tsp of sugar

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 157 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 158 158 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA on top. QMHHPIQEVMREXIHKVETIWSRXLIWMHIERHWSQITS[HIVIHWYRǼS[IVWIIHW consistency, place tarhanaineachdish,garnish with thepurslanesauce inthe stock, asif you were preparing a“risotto”. When thetarhanareaches theright tarhana until inbecomes brownish; thenslowly addhot vegetable or meat Place alittlebit of both olive oil and vinegar inapanat mediumheat andadd slightly fresh andacidintaste. 3 spoonsof pomegranate vinegar. The result shouldbeadeepgreen sauce, 8LIREHHMRXLIQM\IVMGIGYFIWEKEMRSRIF]SRIERHǻREPP]WPS[P]EHH Chop the purslane and place it in a mixer, while mixing slowly add the E.V.O. oil. Purslane sauce the dish. Soak the grapes into pomegranate vinegar for about 24 hours before preparing Marinated grapes place, andlet itdry out. goat milkfor 24hours,and when soft, spread itonatablein warm andsunny If you wish to prepare tarhana from scratch, then soakthecrushed wheat into PICKLED GRAPES AND B LEDAR F E H C N. PURSLANE SAUCE K OLA X

TRAHANA WITH ȸȀȇȸȷȀȷȋȄȨȤ L A N O I S S E F O R P M ULLIXHIU

T A 10/6/20 9:07AM 159 RECIPES

ȄȤȬȀȇȲȄȇȤȋȃ

1 kg Crushed Wheat

150 ml Goat Milk TRADITIONAL

Grapes 70gr

200 ml Pomegranate vinegar

KVTS[HIVIHYRǼS[IVWIIH

50 gr butter

300 gr Purslane (only leaves)

100 ml Olive Oil

Salt

10 Ice cubes

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PREMISE 5 PREFACE BY CARLO PETRINI 6 WHAT IS SLOW FOOD 8 ABOUT THE UNIVERSITY OF GASTRONOMIC SCIENCES 9 ABOUT VIS ALBANIA 11 WHAT IS THE ARK OF TASTE? 12 THE SLOW FOOD COOKS’ ALLIANCE 14 CHAPTER 1. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 17 CHAPTER 2. HONEY 47 CHAPTER 3. MEAT AND FISH 53 CHAPTER 4. PROCESSED PRODUCTS 67 CHAPTER 5. TRADITIONAL RECIPES 139

PRODUCT INDEX 162 REFERENCES 164 CONTACTS 166

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 161 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 162 162 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA QIEXERHǻWL STRAWBERRY TREE HONEY BEDUNICA HONEY VLOSH GRAPE STEBLEVA POTATO SHESH IZIGRAPE SHESH IBARDHË GRAPE RED OREGANO REÇ CHESTNUT PULËZ GRAPE MOUNTAIN TEA LUZNI BLACK CHERRY LEKBIBAJ CREEPING BEAN SKRAPAR GRASS PEA KALINJOTI OLIVE BELORTAJA LEEK TIRANA WHITE OLIVE and vegetables fruits CEM WILD TROUT LAKE SHKODRA CARP OHRID TROUT DRAGOBIA GOAT BELUSHKA FISH BARDHOKA SHEEP honey PRODUCT INDEX 60 50 30 40 20 58 38 48 56 36 64 54 34 44 28 62 26 32 42 24 22 18 10/6/20 9:07AM 163

processed products

BOBOSHTICA MULBERRY RAKI 68 MISHAVINË 104 CHERRY PLUM RAKI 70 OREGANO RAKI 106 CORNELIAN CHERRY RAKI 72 PËRMET GOAT PASTËRMA 108 ROSHNIK DRY FIGS 74 PETKA 110 FERMENTED CABBAGE JUICE 76 PICKLED EGGPLANT 112 GENTIAN TEA 78 PISTIL 114 GJIROKASTRA KAÇKAVALL CHEESE 80 CORNELIAN CHERRY JUICE 116 GJIROKASTRA OSAS 82 YOGURT CREAM IN A SACK 118 GORANI BOZA 84 TRAHANA 120 HARDIÇ 86 TROPOJA BLACK PLUM HOSHAF 122 JARDUN 88 CORNELIAN CHERRY VINEGAR 124 DIBRA JUFKA 90 ELBASAN KOKËRRMADH KALLMET WINE 92 EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 126 KELMEND CORNBREAD 94 WALNUT GLIKO 128 KELMEND DRIED WILD APPLE HOSHAF 130 AND SMOKED PORK MEAT 96 WILD BLACKBERRY RAKI 132 SOUR CHERRY BRANDY 98 WILD FIG GLIKO 134 LUSHNJË MULBERRY PEKMEZ 100 WILD ROSEHIP WINE 136 MAZA E ÇAPRES 102

traditional recipes

MIRDITË WALNUT BUREK 140 KORAN 150 ELBASANI TAVA 142 PAÇE KOKE 152 FËRGESA 144 QIFQIA 154 FLI KUKSI 146 SHKODRA LAKE CARP CASSEROLE 156 JUFKA DIBRE ME PULË 148 TRAHANA WITH PICKLED GRAPES 158 AND PURSLANE SAUCE

ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 163 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 164 164 ARK OF TASTE | ALBANIA 11. 10. 9. 8. 7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1. andarticles Books

of LocalFood ProductsofKukes Region.Mirgeeralb UNDP (2011). Katalogu iProdhimeveUshqimore Tradicionale tëQarkutKukësit/ Catalogue inAlbania.Poljoprivredavarieties iSumarstvo,58(2),87. Topi, D., F., Thomaj, &Halimi, E.(2012).fromthemajor olive Virgin OliveOilproduction ethnopharmacology, 170, 284–296.https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2015.05.018 ontraditional Europe.Journal fermentedplantfoodsandbeverages inEastern perspective of B., Mustafa, B., Nedelcheva, Quave, A., C.L., &Łuczaj,Ł.(2015). Anethnobotanical Sõukand, R., Biró,M., Pieroni, A., Dogan,Y., Dénes,A., Hajdari, Kalle,R., A., Reade, doi.org/10.1016/j.appet.2016.09.024 ofSouthKosovo.Appetite,108,83–92.https://doi.org/https://of wildplantsamongtheGorani Sõukand,R.,Pieroni, A., Quave, C.L., Hajdari, &Mustafa, A., B.(2017). Traditional fooduses 0174-6 Genetic Resources andCropEvolution,62(4),477–500. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10722-014- among AlbaniansandAromanianslivingintheRraicë andMokra Albania. areasofEastern M., &Papajani-Toska, Ibraliu,Abbasi,A. A., Pieroni, A., V. (2015). study Anethnobotanical org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fitote.2005.03.015 NorthernAlbanianAlps.Fitoterapia, 76(3),379–399.https://doi.of theAlbaniansLepushe, Dibra, B.,Pieroni, A., Grishaj,G., Grishaj, I., &GjonMaçai, S.(2005).Traditional phytotherapy quality, 90,58-67. https://doi.org/10.5073/JABFQ.2017.090.009 mountain villages Albania.Journal ofNorth-Eastern in afew ofappliedbotanyandfood &Sõukand,R.(2017).Pieroni, A., disappearingwildfoodandmedicinalplantknowledge The Balkans: perspectivesonsustainablerural developmentandreconciliation. New York: Springer. &Quave, (Eds.).Pieroni, A., C.L. (2014). Ethnobotanyandbiocultural diversitiesinthe York/Oxford: Berghahn. Ethnobotany inthenewEurope:People, Health andWildPlantResources (pp.16–50).New communism inaNorthAlbanianvillage. In M.PardodeSantayana, Pieroni,&R.Puri (Eds.), A. (2010). PeoplePieroni, A. andplantsinLëpushë.Traditional medicine,local foods,andpost- org/10.1007/s10722-008-9320-3 Northern AlbanianAlps.GeneticResources andCropEvolution,55(8),1197–1214. https://doi. avillage inthe ofTheth, plantresourcesintheethnobotany (2008).Local Pieroni, A. Europe. Tirana: Pegi Sh.p.k. Functionality OhridLakeImplementingtheEUWater Framework Directive inSouth-Eastern fürInternationaleDeutsche Gesellschaft Zusammenarbeit(GIZ)GmbH(2017). Shorezone REFERENCES 10/6/20 9:07AM 165

Website

1. hiip://www.volint.it/vis/albania 2. hiips://agroweb.org/ 3. hiips://www.essedra.com/

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Rigers Kacori, Flora Sali,DorjanMeraj, Dhimiter Piligriu,Giorgio Ponti, Altin Prof. Dr. Andrea Pieroni Rector of theUniversity of Gastronomic Sciences Dalipi, Petrit Dobi,Zef Gjeta, Preke Gjeloshaj,Gjystina Grishaj,Urim Jace, Pier Paolo Ambrosi, Artan Bala, Anna Carboni,Dhurata Daneri,Sulejman e Anton Prenga, Eftali Qerimi, Vehip Salkurti,Manjola Shehaj, Flora Sali, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 8SXLIXIEQEXXLI9RMZIVWMX]SJ,EWXVSRSQMGGMIRGIW To theSlow Food International team involved 9ȤȄȒȇȀȃȄȋȚȨȧ,ȷȃȋȀȨȤȨȣȄșșȄȇȤșȇȃ To theSlow Food network in Albania: 9RMZIVWMX]SJ,EWXVSRSQMGGMIRGIW CONTACTS directly involved with thisbook: Charles Barstow, MicheleRumiz with the Albanian Ark ofTaste: the AlbanianArk with Irma Tako,Drita Tanazi. Dauro Mattia Zocchi www.slowfood.com [email protected] www.unisg.it/en ȜȨȕ+ȨȨȲ Slow Food 10/6/20 9:07AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 167 10/6/20 9:07 AM ADG_ALBANIA_interiores.indd 168 10/6/20 9:07 AM