Coronn.Com, Corsica TOPOS

Corsica 1. Patrimonio No grades 2. Sant Flourenzu 3. Pietralba

4. I Curriali D80 5. Isula Rossa, Les Iles 6. Lumiu 7. Bonifatu Nonza 8. Suare Brando 9. Portu 1 Bastia 10. Cuccia D81 11. Caporalinu 5 D81 2

N197 12. Francardu N193 4 13. La Restonica 6 14. Ponte du Vecchio No grades 3 15. Boccognano Calvi 8 7 16. Mont Gozzi N193

17. Terre Sacrée Ponte Leccia D81 18. La reta 12 Calacuccia 10 19. Col du Bavella 11 20. Sari Monte Santu D84 Omessa 21. Punta di Capineru boulder Corte Porto 13 9 N200 N198

14 D69

15 Ghisoni

D81 N193 Bocognano

Ajaccio D111 18 17 D83 Zicavo Solenzara 19 20 D268 Zonca

Porto-Veccio N196

21 Bonafacio 1. Patrimonio South 25 m. N 42 41.831’ EO 09 22.002’

Direction Sant Flourenzu and Patrimonio

P Direction P Col du Teghime

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Drive from Sant Flourenzu (Sant Florens), then pass the village Patrimonio and at the outskirts park your car in a sharp bend just by the crag. The routes are graded 6b to 7c. Limestone. 2.1. Sant Flourentzu Take me to 2.2. East 20 m.

1. The au Harem 8a 2. Regime Sensuel 7c+ 3. Nage Indienne 7a 4. ? 7c 5. Fragile 7a 6. ? 7b+ 7. Garde La Joie? 7b+ 8. Stratosphere 8a 9. Cuirs et Dentelles 7c+ 10. Stars sans strass 8a+ 11. Cosa Strechu 8a 6

Direction P Patrimonio 11 10 9 1 2 8 4 7 5,6 Sant 3 Flourentzu

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Drive from Sant Flourenzu (Sant Florens) in the direction of Bastia on road D81. After 3 km you will pass a bridge and after a bend to the right you will be in a pass where you will see this overhanging Limestone crag. Park at a lay-bay to the right. 2.2. Sant Flourentzu Take me to 2.1. East 10 m.

1. ? 7b 2. ? 7b+ 3. ? 7b+ 4. ? 7b 5. ? ? 6 6. Roi des Aulnes 8a 7. ? 8a 8. ? 6c

8 1 2 3 4 5,6 7 Direction P Patrimonio

Sant Flourentzu

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Drive from Sant Flourenzu (Sant Florens) in the direction of Bastia on road D81. After 3 km you will pass a bridge and after a bend to the right you will be in a pass where you will see many overhanging Limestone crags. Park at a lay-bay to the right. Walk back and under the bridge to find this crag. 3.1. Pietralba Keymap South, Southwest 25 m. Parking N 42 32.268’ EO 09 10.980’

3.2. 3.3.

Direction I’ll-Rousse 3.4.

Direction 3.5. Pitralba

3.6. Cemetery Chappel

P N1197

Direction Ponte Leccia

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Turn of the road N1197 between I’ll-Rousse and Ponte Leccia just by the small village Petralba. From the village a road pass the main road on a bridge and on that side you will find a small Chappel, a Crucifix and 100 metres further on a Cementry. Park your car on a lay-bay shortly after and follow the track to this fantastic Limestone crag. 3.2. Pietralba South, Southwest 25 m.

10 11 12 5 3 4 2 6 7 8 9

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1. Le passe Muraille 6a+ 7. Sortilège 7a 2. Le nez dans le fleurs 6a+ 8. Dieu est dans le Gaz 8a 3. Mister Pof 6b 9. Estampe au soupir 8a+ 4. Le Clown voltigeur 7b 10. Chien de l’enfer 7c 5. ? 7a 11. ? ? 6. ? 7a 12. ? ? 3.3. Pietralba

South, Southwest 15 m.

2 3

See route 8 no. 1 on 3.2. 7 6 5 4 1,2,3

1. ? 5b 6. Encore une fois 6a+ 2. ? 5c 7. ? 6a 3. ? 6c 8. Bolts missing 4. ? 6b+ 5. L’Heure de la sieste 5c 3.4. Pietralba

Southwest, West 25 m. N 42 32.160’ EO 09 10.759’

3 4

1 7 2 6

1. ? ? 6. ? ? 2. ? 7a 7. ? 7b+ 3. ? 8a 4. ? ? 5. ? ? 3.5. Pietralba

South, Southwest 8 m.

5 6 4

1 2 3

1. Corto Maltese 6a 4. A Cuerzola 7b+ 2. Bella Caterinetta 6a 5. ? 7c+ 3. Saveur Corsee 6b 6. ? 7a 3.6. Pietralba

South, Southwest 25 m.

9 10 11 12

14 See route 13 no. 1 on 3.5.

3 5 4 8 7 6

1 2

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1. ? ? 8. ? 7b+ 2. ? ? 9. ? 7b+ 3. ? ? 10. ? 7b 4. ? ? 11. Figolu 7a 5. ? ? 12. Vol au dessous d’un nid... 5c 6. Black out 7b 13. Univers uni 8a 7. ? 7a 14. Le rêve d’un corp sage 6c 4.1. Curriali Take me to 4.2. / 4.3. / 4.4.

All directions of the compass 13 m. N 42 36.885’ EO 08 56.355’

5 8 9 12 10 1 7 11 2 6 3 P

4,5

Spring 4.1. water P 4.3. 1. Lea 3 2. Titoute 3 4. Marc’andria 3 4.4. 4. Surprice sur prise 6a 5. La Voie Pascal 6a 6. La fourmilière 4 4.2. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 7. La Voie du figuier 5 8. A pappata 5+ How to find the the crag: 9. Qui s’y jette s’y coupe 6c 10. Au mal assis 4+ From Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), turn off in the direction of Sta Reparata-di 11. La suréquipée 5 Balagna. In that village, drive on a small road in the direction of Munticellu. After 12. La renfougne 5 a couple of kilometres you will pass a Spring and you could see the crag up to the right. Continue 200 metres and park at a lay-bay. Take the track 40 metres to the crag. A nice granit crag with a view over the Ligurian Sea. 4.2. / 4.3. Curriali Take me to 4.1. / 4.4.

All directions of the compass 13 m.

4.3.

P 4 1,2 5 6 3

Spring 4.1. 1. Aquarium 7b water P 2. A Pressionne 7c+ 4.3. 3. Super Biceps 7a 4. Myrtilles pour les filles 6b 5. Fraises pour les balaises 6c+ 6. Citrons pour les garçons 6c 4.4.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 4.2. How to find the the crag: From Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), turn off in the direction of Sta Reparata-di Balagna. In that village, drive on a small road in the direction of Munticellu. After a couple of kilometres you will pass a Spring and you could see the crag up to the right. Continue 200 metres and park at a lay-bay. Take the track 40 metres to the crag. A nice granit crag with a view over the Ligurian Sea. 4.4. Curriali Take me to 4.1. / 4.2. / 4.3.

All directions of the compass 13 m.

5 4 2 3 Spring 4.1. 1 water P 4.3.

1. U Falcu 6a 2. A Pussosa 6a 4.4. 3. Fracture sans conséquence 4 4. ? ? Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 5. La Pionnière 6b 4.2. How to find the the crag: From Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), turn off in the direction of Sta Reparata-di Balagna. In that village, drive on a small road in the direction of Munticellu. After a couple of kilometres you will pass a Spring and you could see the crag up to the right. Continue 200 metres and park at a lay-bay. Take the track 40 metres to the crag. A nice granit crag with a view over the Ligurian Sea. 5. Isula Rossa 1. ? 3 2. ? 3+ 3. ? 4 East, North 4. ? 4 8 m. 5. ? 4 N 42 38.671’ 6. ? 5 EO 08 55.967’ 7. ? 6a 8. ? 4 9. ? 6a+ 10. ? 5 11. ? 6a P 12. ? 6a+ 13. ? 6a

2 To the 1 3 4 lighthouse 5 6 7 8

North

Sea

Ruin 13 10 11 12 9 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Follow the signposts for the harbour of Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), continue to the big car park on the left, to the right you have the Hotel de la Pietra. park and walk on a gravelled road that leads to the lighthose l’île. After 200 metres, turn right on a track down to the crag. A perfect place for families, 50 metres to the water and no problems to bring a pram. 6. Lumiu

West 20 m. N 42 34.626’ EO 08 50.310’

9 Village 7 10 3 5 8 11 Lumiu 2 6 12 13 4

P 1 1. Patria Nostra 5 2. Spanu 4+ 3. Téfal 6b+ 4. Revelatta 5 Direction 5. Caldanu 6a Calvi Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 6. Carchinu 4 How to find the the crag: 7. San Damiano 4 8. Varcale 5 Follow signposts for Lumiu center. Park by the church or on a parallel road 9. Fornellu 5 higher in the village. Walk in the direction of an house that lookes as a small 10. Capite 6b+ castle. Bellow this house you will find signpost for “Chemin de Randonne”. 11. Vallibone 6a Follow this track, in a T-junction, hold left and walk the step track to the granit 12. Vignola 6a crag. If you take right in the T-junction you will reach the top and the crucifix. 13. Parata 4 The walk to the crag takes about 15 minutes. 7. Bonifatu

East, West 15 m. N 42 26.466’ EO 08 51.535’

7,8

6 5 9

4 Restaurant Direction Calvi Airport 3 Bus parking 400 m. 1 2 P P

River Crag 1. Miaou, miaou just canigou 7b 2. Reptations subtiles 7b+ Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 3. Bah! 7a How to find the the crag: 4. ? 5+ 5. ? 6a+ Between Calvi and Isula Rossa (I’ll Rousse) road D81 turns off to Calvi-Ste- 6. ? ? Catherine, the Airport. Follow that road, pass the Airport and continue straight 7. ? 6a forward to Bonifatu. In this beatiful valley you will find a giant block standing in 8. ? 5 the river 5 metres from the small gravelled road that leads into the valley. Where 9. ? 5 the road are blocked, park by the restaurant, cross the Bus parking zon and continue about 400 metres to the granit crag. 8. Suare 1. Comme à Bleau 5b Route 8 to 13, NO TOPOS, from left to right 2. Au pied de l’éboulis 6a 8. Embrouillardmini 6a+ 3. Les jardinets suspendus 6b 9. SO-6 (a crack 20 m. to the right) 6b Northeast and in a ravine 4. Vacca Scema 6a 10.Etreinte enfumée 6b 30 m. 5. Lichen Nickel 6a+ 11. Chef de chantier 7b 6. Brosse Alban 5+ 12. Perfore á sec 6b Parking 7. Jardiland 4+ 13. Ecaille-kaî 7a N 42 26.466’ EO 08 51.535’ Route in Italic style neads gear.

Direction Calvi Airport

Route no. 10 to 13

1 Direction Bonifatu Route no. 2 8 to 9 3 4 Route no. Direction 1 to 7 Galeria 5 6

How to find the the crag: Copyright coronn AB, Sweden Between Calvi and Isula Rossa (I’ll Rousse) road D81 turns off to Calvi-Ste- Catherine, the Airport. Follow that road, pass the Airport and turn right in the direction of Galeria. Park 2,5 km later, in a sharp bend, by a signpost “Site d’Escalade”. On a bad track in the shrubbery where you sometimes could locate yourself to be on the right of many small tracks by red marks on stones, try to find the the way up to the granit crag that you can see all the time. The crag offers climbing on both sides in a ravine which gives you shadow the whole day. Not recomended because of a long and hard walk. 9. Portu Direction Galeria South, Southeast 15 m.

Sea

Plage de Bussaglia

10 6 Sea 16 Portu

Direction Piana Direction Evisa

2 1 5 1314 11 12 15,16 8 9,10 4 6,7 Sea 3 1. ? (neads gear) ? Sea 2. ? 5c 3. ? 5b Sea 4. ? 5a 5. ? 5c 6a 6. ? 6b 5a 5a 7. ? 6c 8. ? 6b+ How to find the the crag: 9. ? 6b If you drive in the direction of Portu (Porto) from the North, on road D81, you Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 10. ? 6a+ 11. ? 6a will find a small road a couple of kilometres before Portu that leads down to a 12. ? 6a+ beach “Plage de Bussaglia”. Drive down to the beach and park on a big car 13. ? 6a park just where the river flows into the Sea. Walk and take to the left on the 14. ? 6a+ beach, after 500 metres you will find the boulder stone just by the water and 15. ? 5c the crag 50 metres from it. A butiful and family friendly granit crag. The nudist 16. ? 6a also like this place, if that is positive or negative...? It is possible to bring a pram though you have to carry it over some stones. A restaurant “Les Galets” by the car park offers food and drinks. 10. Cuccia 1. Crasta 4+ South 2. Subra 4+ 30 m. 3. L’Altagna 4- N 42 20.639’ 4. ? ? EO 09 02.816’ 5. ? ? 6. Falcu 6c 7. ? ? 8. ? ? 9. ? ? 10. A Muvra 6a 11. A Muvra variant 6c 12. ? ? 13. ? ? 14. ? 5+ 15. ? 5+ 16. ? 6a 17. ? 4+

Direction Francardu Calacuccia P

Direction Evisa

How to find the the crag: 1 2 3 4 5 Tree kilometres east of the village Calacuccia a small ropeway for the dam cross over the road just by this crag. 6 7 8 You will find yourself driving in a valley where many of Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 9 10 the crags are possible to arrange new routes on. This 11 granit crag offers many nice routes whith “the magic granit 12 13 holes of Corsica”. Park below the crag by the signpost 14 15 16 17 “Site d’Escalade de Cuccia” and walk about 20 metres to reach the crag. To the left of this sector you will find a couple of routes in “Settore de la Dalle” and another small sector to the right “Settore 3”, those are not covered by this TOPOS. 11.1. Caporalinu Take me to 11.2. / 11.3. Railway

West 15 16 25 m, multi pitch up to 50 m. 17 Direction Corte 11 P Pizzeria

Direction Ponte Leccia

21 7 22 20 35 23 34 36 24 29 33 28 30 31 32 14 18 19 27 12 13 25 26 6,7 8 9 10 11 How to find the the crag: 1. ? 6b 19. ? 6a+ 2. ? 6b 20. ? 5c Drive from Ponte Leccia in the direction 3. Saleè sucrè 6b 21. ? 5c/6a of Corte on road N193. A couple of 4. ? 6a+ 22. ? 5c kilometres after you have passed 5. ? 6a 23. Poquois pas vous? 5b Francardu you reach a small village, Caporalinu. Turh right into the village. 4 5 6. ? 6a+ 24. ? 5b 1 2 3 7. ? 7b 25. ? 5b The first road to the right leads to a bridge, 8. ? 7a 26. ? 6a park your car before the bridge where 9. ? 6a+ 27. ? 5c the road is wide. Cross the bridge, turn 10. Charleston 6a 28. ? 5c right and choose the track that leads up Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 11. La mousse au Chocolat 7a/6c 29. ? 5c to the left. 12. Irish Coffee 6c+ 30. ? 6b Follow the step track, pass the railway 13. La balade Irlandaise 6a+ 31. ? 6c and continue until you reach the ruin that 14. ? 6a+ 32. ? 6a+ stands on a small crag. The walk takes 15. ? 6c 33. ? 6b+ about 10 minutes. This is a beatiful crag, 16. ? 6b+ 34. ? 6b+ and the sun doesn’t reach the crag until 17. ? 6a 35. ? 6b late. After the climbing you could eat in 18. ? 6b 36. ? 5c the village on “Tonys pizzeria”. 11.2. Caporalinu Take me to 11.1. / 11.3. Railway

West 10 m. Direction Corte P 1. Castell 7c Pizzeria 2. ? 7b 3. ? 5c 4. ? 7b 5. ? 7a+ 6. ? 6c+ 7. ? 6c+ How to find the the crag: 8. ? 6c 9. ? 6a Drive from Ponte Leccia in the direction of Corte on road N193. A couple of 7 kilometres after you have passed Francardu you reach a small village, Caporalinu. Turh right into the village. The first road to the right leads to a bridge, park your car before the bridge where the road is wide. Cross the bridge, turn right and choose the track that leads up to the left. 5 Follow the step track, pass the railway and continue until you reach the ruin that stands on a small crag. The walk takes about 10 minutes. This is a beatiful crag, and the sun doesn’t reach the crag until late. After the climbing you could eat in the village on “Tonys pizzeria”. 1 2 3 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

4,5 6,7 8 9 11.3. Caporalinu Take me to 11.1. / 11.2.

West 40 m. Multi pitch 50 m.

Railway

Direction Corte P Pizzeria

4 11 14 13 3 10 12 How to find the the crag: 6 7 5 9 8 Drive from Ponte Leccia in the direction of Corte on road N193. A couple of 1 2 kilometres after you have passed Francardu you reach a small village, Caporalinu. Turh right into the village. The first road to the right leads to a bridge, park your car before the bridge where the road is wide. Cross the bridge, turn right and choose the track that leads up 1. ? 6a 10. Passagger clandestin 6b/6c+ to the left. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 2. Le cyclamin solitaire 5c 11. Le pavillon de songes 6b+/6b+ Follow the step track, pass the railway 3. Cephalèe 7a 12. ? 6c+ and continue until you reach the ruin that 4. Exploration de l’invisible 6c+ 13. Arsenic et vielles dentelles 7a stands on a small crag. The walk takes 5. Senteurs brulèes 6c 14. Il neige en enfer 7a+ about 10 minutes. This is a beatiful crag, 6. Faut pas rêver 6c and the sun doesn’t reach the crag until 7. Nevralgie 7a late. After the climbing you could eat in 8. ? 7a+ the village on “Tonys pizzeria”. 9. Airaignèe d’un soir 6c+ 12.1. Francardu Keymap

West 35 m. Old sector

“Guy Cau”

“Desperados”

Cave sector

Central sector

Direction How to find the the crag: Calacuccia Drive from Ponte Leccia in the direction Direction of Corte on road N193. Turn right, into Ponte Leccia the village on the second road that leads Chapel to the center, on the road that also leads P to Calacuccia. Turn right again after 5 metres. After “Max” bar, before a Chapel, Direction turn right again on a small road in the Corte P direction of Aiti. After 300 metres you will drive under the main road and shortly Direction Aiti after you should stop and park where a road turns sharp to the right and leads Copyright coronn AB, Sweden to a house. Walk and pass the house, turn left and follow the track to this Limestone crags. To rech the Cave sector, park the car as you turn into the village, walk back and cross the main road. Pass a gate to a Cementry and pass this on the right side. Follow the track to the crag. 12.2. Francardu

West 25 m.

1 2 6 3 4 5

1011 7 9 8 12

1. ? 6a+ 10. La ballade du Savoyard 5c Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 2. ? 7a+ 11. Maouss cost 7a 3. ? 6c+ 12. ? 7b+ 4. ? 7a 5. ? 6b 6. ? 6a 7. ? 7b 8. ? 6c 9. ? 6b 12.3. Francardu

West 35 m.

8 16

15 1 7,8 9 14 4 5 6 10 2 3 11 12 13

1. Mais l’uloine 6c 2. U Spedu 6c 3. U Focu 6a+ 4. ? 6b 5. ? 6c+ 6. ? 7b 7. A Grotta 7a 8. ? 7c 9. ? 6b+ 20 21 22 23 24 10. Desert line 7a+ 17 18 19 11. Pietra 7a 12. Serena 6c+ 13. ? 7b 14. A storia di u Culumbu 6b 15. Leccia 6a+/5c+ 16. ? 6a+ Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 17. ? 7b 18. ? 5c 19. ? 6b 20. ? 7a 21. ? 7a 22. ? 6c+ 23. ? 6a+ 24. ? 6a+ 12.4. Francardu

West 25 m.

10 11 4 3 13 14 1 2 5 6 12 7 8 9, 15 10, 11

1. ? ? 2. ? ? 16 3. ? ? 4. ? 6c+ 5. Negresse vert 8b 6. Negresse blonde 8b 7. ? 7c+ 8. ? ? 9. ? 6c 10. ? 6b Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 11. ? ? 12. ? ? 13. ? ? 14. ? ? 15. ? 6b+ 16. ? 5b 13.1. La Restonica Direction Ponte Leccia

Keymap 1

How to find the the crag: Drive from Ponte Leccia to Corte on road N193. In a roundabout in the outskirts of Corte you follow signposts for La Corte Rastonica. After about 2 km on the small road you will reach the first area, signposted “Site d’Escalade”. Continue 2 km and then you reach the second area, One part of the crag is just by the road. Six kilometres later you will reach the last area, a high crag just by the road. Direction Aléria Park at a lay-bay 200 metres before the Area 1 crag under a black/yellow coloured crag. 400 metres before this crag you will find a nice boulder crag by the road, look Area 2 after a low overhanging crag just by the road with a bolt on it. The boulder is under a roof, good for rainy days. Direction Venaco

Gorges de la Restonica Area 3 Boulder

N 42 15.688’ EO 09 04.795’ 13.2. La Restonica Area 1

Keymap

South 15 m.

1 3 2 4 6 7 5 8 9 10

1. Marche à l’ombre variant 6b+ 2. Marche à l’ombre 7a Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 3. Scurnachjione 6c+ 4. Acqualina 6a 5. Tacculata 6b 6. Chjama Mi 6c+ 7. Scalinelli 6c 8. A Vechja 6a+ 9. Dulore d’Amor 6c+ 10. Pour les enfants 4+ 13.4. La Restonica Area 1, Paisson d’avril

South 20 m.

13 14 15 16

2 1

12 8 11

7 9 10 6 5 3 4

1. Rinascita 7c 11. Nostra Minus 5 2. La paille et la poutre 7a+ 12. Nostra Maxus 5 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 3. Poisson d’avril 6a 13. Court surplomb 6a 4. Mai alors 6b 14. Dallesque 6a 5. Août es-tu 5+ 15. Tibia blues 6c 6. Mars attaque 5 16. Que de dalles... 6c 7. ? 4b 8. ? 4b 9. ? 4b 10. ? 4b 13.5. La Restonica Area 1, Stella/Luna and Patagonie

South 20 m.

1 5 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 16 14 13 15

1. Negrita 4 11. I Mio Amichi 3+ 2. Chaltèn 4+ 12. Onda 4+ 3. Mapuche 5 13. Rasta 5 4. Al Amigo Jorge 5+ 14. Sô di Passaghju 5+ 5. La Cueva 6a 15. Stella 6a Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 6. Cusi Bella 5+ 16. Luna 6a+ 7. Tù 4+ 8. Drittu per a Vita 5 9. Sempre Cu Te 6c 10. I Mio Amore 4+ 13.6. La Restonica 1. Pierre et Pierre 6a+ 11. Las chicas mandocinas 3 4c Area 2, La Conque 2. 100 ans de solitude 6b+ 12. Chucarella 1 7b+ 3. Los Baqueanos 7a+ 13. Chucarella 2 7b 4. ? 8a 14. ? 6a Take me to the right part 5. Le banane par les deux bouts 6a 15. Papet 6a+ 6. Bédè 5+ 16. Ugolin 6c+ South 7. Secret d’Amore 7b/6c+ 17. Manon 6c+ 30 m. Multi pitch 40 m. 8. Rossa d’Amor 6c+ 18. Petit Caîd 7a 9. Las chicas mandocinas 1 5c 19. Prèlude 6b 10. Las chicas mandocinas 2 4c 20. Frontière sauvage 5+ 21. Tranquillos... 7b 22. Si meia (the full route 6b) 6a 23. Savè 6c+ 24. Massaî 7c 25. Clandestina 6b 26. Merendella 6a 27. Lotta 7a

1 8 15 See route 28 4 5 on 13.7 2 3 6 7 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 26 23 24 27 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 9 14 25

10 13

12 11 13.7. La Restonica Area 2, Miroir Brise and Bord de route

Take me to the left part

South See route 27 25 m. on 13.6

28. Anto 7a 29. Paul 6c 30. Passione 6c 31. Solu 6a+ 32. Miroir brisé 6c+ 28 29 37 3839 33. Songe de papier glaçé 7c 34 35 36 30 31 33 34. Lézard d’heures chaudes 7b+ 32 35. Calafate 7a+ 36. A mo préfèrita 6b 37. A Rambunetta 6a 38. Petites mains 7b 39. Pè Ugo A+ 40. Toinette 6c+ 41. Pepe 6a 42. Pale l’ombre d’un doute... 8 43. Eramu duei 7a 44. Le syndrome topaze 8a 45. Le spectre du survetement 8a

44 43 45 13.8. La Restonica 1. Sonnia di Vita 6b+ 11.? 6a Area 2, Blocs 2. Ghjochi Zitellini 6a+ 12. ? 4+ 3. U Snampalutu 6a+ 13. Spéranza 7a+ 4. Voglia Vinu 6b 14. Vighju 6a+ South 5. E Campa 7a+ 15. Perté 6c+ 15 m. 6. Cutu 6a+ 7. Strampalatu 7a 8. Sole de Vita 6c+ 9. ? 4+ 10.? 6c+

1 3 4 5 2 6

7 8 9 11 10

12 13 14

15 13.9. La Restonica Area 3

South 25 m.

1. Conte sans lune 6b+ 2. Karina 8 3. Victor 7a 4. Carlito 7a 10 5. Libru d’argentu 7c 6. Reportage exclusif 8a 7. Scoop 7b 8. Patin-Rouleau 7a 9. Fa Cume l’Acellu 6c+ 10.Bon anniversaire 6c

8 4

2 3,4 6 7,8 9,10 1 5 14.1. Ponte Vecchio Take me to 14.2.

South 25 m. N 42 11.849’ Direction Corte EO 09 09.619’

Venaco

Direction Bocognano

How to find the the crag: Copyright coronn AB, Sweden Drive from Ponte Leccia to Corte on road N193. Continue on the same road and pass Venaco. 4 km after Venaco, just before a new built bridge, a small road turns off to the right. Follow this for 1 km to a signpost “Site d’Escalade”. This is a very nice granit crag, further to the left you will find the next part with a couple of step routes. Unfortunately we don’t have any exact information about the routes but we hope that we could provide such later. Follow the road a couple of hundred metres more and you will reach a beautiful big stone with a project on it, but also because the area is very beatiful. It is possible to bring a pram. 14.2. Ponte Vecchio Take me to 14.1.

South 20 m. Direction Corte

Venaco

Direction Bocognano

Drive from Ponte Leccia to Corte on road N193. Continue on the same road and pass Venaco. 4 km after Venaco, just before a new built bridge, a small road turns off to the right. Follow this for 1 km to a signpost “Site d’Escalade”. This is a very nice granit crag. Unfortunately we don’t have any exact information about the routes but we hope that we could provide such later. Follow the road a couple of hundred metres more and you will reach a beautiful big stone with a project on it, but also because the area is very beatiful. 15. Boccagnano 1. Cauchemar d’artichaud 7c+ 2. Les oiseaux se cachent pour vomir 6b+ 3. Le grand silence 6a Southwest 4. Ismiralda 5b 25 m. Multi pitch 45 m. 5. Poison d’avril 5b 6. In extremis 6a+ 7. Trous dans la couche d’os Jaune 7a+ 8. Adieu l’ami 6b 22 9. Entra’acte 5b 10.Gandalf le gris 7a 11. Les Cavaliers de Rohan 7a+ 10 20 12 13 12. Le seigneur des anneaux 7a+ 11 14 19 25 13. Le miroir de galandriel 7b 15 to 18 14. Le monts brumeux 6c+ 26 28 15. Bilbon le Hobbit 7a 9 21 24 27 16. Langue de serpent 6b+ 23 17. L’Isengard 6c+ 1 2 3 18. La Pierre d’orthane 6b 19. Camel trophy 6b+ 7 8 20. Oasis, oasis 6a+ 21. Deux bosses 4b 22. La traversee du désert 7a+ 6 4 5 23. La croix du Sud 6b 24. Le vent du desert 6a+ 25. Rumine toujours 6c+ 26. La caravane passe 5c 27. Jusque...ca va 7a 28. Le chameau 6a/6a+ 29. U bussu 4b/5b 30. Prima volta 3c/4b 31. U fiumicellu 6a+ 32. Zitellinu 4c 33. A cigala 5a 34. A furmicula 4c 29 48 35. Chi va pianu va sanu 6a 46 47 36. Chi maraviglia 6a 30 45 37. Sussuru di l’onda 6a+ 31 38. Tumaghjucciu 6a 32 44 43 33 42 39. A sulana 6a+ 34 40 41 40. Luna rossa 6a+ Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 39 41. U cantu di l’accellu 5c 35 36 37 38 42. U mulinu di l’orsu 6a+ 43. Sfiatatu 6b 44. Chiama e rispondi 6b 45. U lamentu di a richiusa 7a+ 46. Tempurale 6a+ 47. U cignale 5b 48. A ranottia 4c 15. Boccagnano

Access

How to find the the crag: Drive from Corte or Ajaccio on road N193. In the mountain you will reach the small village Boccognano. At the outskirts you will find a bridge and near the bridge signposts for “Mulinu”. Follow this small road and park your car at the end of the road. Follow the track, cross the river on a bridge and then turn right in the direction of the crags. A nice granit crag with big variations. The high altidude makes this crags very good for climbing during the summer.

Direction Corte

Direction Ajaccio Boccognano 16.1. Mont Gozzi 1. 500 ans 6c 2. Grain de folie 7b 3. Un gran pas vers le bon dieu 7a Take me to 16.2. / 16.3 4. Saga Corsica 6c 5. Pop Corns et confetti 6b+ 6. La chasse au lézard 5c North 7. Fruits de la patience 6b 25 m. 8. L’araignée ivre 6b 9. Clair obscur 6a+ 10. le vent du désert 6a 11. La danse du Lion 6a+

2 3 6 1 4 5 7 8 9 10 11

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 16.2. Mont Gozzi 1. Chemin de lumière 6b+ 2. Overdose 7a/6a 3. Le rêve d’icare 5c/6a Take me to 16.1. / 16.3. 4. Entre glace et feu 6a+/5c 5. Dos au mur 6b/6a+ 6. Il gèle en enfer 6b East, Southeast 7. Délit de fuite 6b+ 25 m. Multi pitch 60 m. 8. Elémentaire, mon Cher 5b/6a/5b 9. Tempête du désert 5b/6b/5c 10.Tempête du désert, Variante 5b/6b/5c 11. L’air de Rein 6a+/6b+/6c+ 12. Traitment de choc 7a+ 13. Solitude extrême 6c 14. Au bout du rouleau 6c+ 15. Délivrance 7b 16. Des os pilants 8a 17. Le judgement dernier 6c

1 10

3 4 5

6 7 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 15 14 16 17 8 13 9,10 11 12 16.3. Mont Gozzi

Take me to 16.1. / 16.2. 16.2. East, Southeast 25 m. Multi pitch 60 m. 16.1.

How to find the the crag: Drive from Ajaccio on road N193. After 10 km you should turn left in the direction of Afa. Park your car by the Church or continue on the small road and park just before some houses. On the right side of the road, P open and pass a gate and in the T-junction, hold right and continue on the track into the cleft. To the right you will find five routes that are not illustrated on this TOPOS, the first one is Direction Tiuccia two pitches (50 m) graded 6a, the following are short routes P graded 6c+, 6c, 7a and 6a. Continue in the step cleft and Direction Corte you will reach sector 16.1. and 16.2. The walk takes approximately 1 Afa hour.

Direction Ajaccio 17. Terre Sacrée 1. Tripoblocus 6b 2. Viex Reve ? 3. Desillusion 7c South 4. Calvaire 7a 20 m. 5. Tire moi la botte... 6c 6. Ombre et lumiere 4c 7. Troisieme age 4c 8. Ictere 5b 9. Azur 4c 10.Ça cause 4c 11. Caca boudin 4b 12. Tu m’as compris tu m’as 4b 13. Sagouin 4b 14. Grain de beauté 4b 15. Le cri des mouettes 4b

3 4 2 7

8 9 10

11 12 15 14 13 Direction Capu de Fenu 1

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: P Drive from Ajaccio on road D111 in the direction of Iles Sanguinaires. 5 km after you have left Ajaccio a road in the direction of Capu de Fenu turns right. Follow that and after Direction Iles 150 metres a small road turns off to the right. Follow that to Sanguinaires Direction Ajaccio a big open plateau ( N 41 54.832’ / EO 08 38.367’ ). Park and follow the track that you will se from the car park. 18. La reta 1. Cocmon penou 6a? 2. La saleine jicue 7a 3. ? 6b North and East 4. ? 5c 10 m. 5. Suspence 5b N 41 54.565’ 6. ? 6a EO 08 36.687’ 7. Mateus 5b 8. ? 4c 9. Sollex 5a 10. ? (Not bolted) 3+ 11. Traverse 4a

Direction Ajaccio

11 P

1 Iles Sanguinaires

How to find the the crag: 10,11 7 Drive from Ajaccio on road D111 in the direction of Iles Sanguinaires. A couple of hundreds metres before Iles 2 9 Sanguinaires, turn right on a small road before a Church. If you cear for your car, park by the Church and walk. Follow Copyright coronn AB, Sweden this small sand road for approximately one kilometres, park on a lay bay where the road starts to move up. The lay bay 8 is big enough for 4 to 5 cars. Walk 200 3 to 300 metres to the granit crag. if you 4 6 are driving a jeep you could drive further 5 on and in a T-junction, take left and park by the Sea, 19.1. Col de Bavella Murzella Keymap Levante Paterla Nera Prugnola

Grande Dalle, How to find the the crag: Filetta, Margherita and Drive from Solenzara on road Tarella D268 in the direction of Col de Bavella. The trip is 20 km but it takes time much longer than you might expect. Park at a good car park and walk on the track to the crags. Direction Solenzara

Col de Bavella P

Bar

South 40 m.

1. ? 5a 2. ? 6a+ 3. ? 6a 32 4. ? 5b 5. ? 5b 30 31 6. ? 4a 7. ? 5a 29 8. ? 5b 9. ? 5c 10. ? 6b 11. ? 3c 28 12. ? 5b 27 13. ? 6b 26 14. ? 5c 15. ? 5b 25 16. ? 5b 17. ? 5b 19 13 24 23 15 16 21 22 18, 20 17 19 14 18. ? 5c/5c 11 12, 19. ? 5a 10 13 20. ? 4b/6a 9 8 21. ? 4a 7 6 22. ? 5a 5 3 4 23. ? 5a 2 24. ? 5a Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1 25. ? 4b 26. ? 4a 27. ? 4a 28. ? 4c 29. ? 5c 30. ? 5c 31. ? 5c 32. ? 7a 19.3. Col de Bavella Area 2, Prugnola and Levante

South 25 m.

14 19 20

16 17 2 18, 19

13 12 1,2 11

10 9 5 7 8 4 6 1. ? 5c 11. ? 5a 3 2. ? 6b+ 12. ? 5c Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 3. ? 6a 13. ? 5b 4. ? 6a+ 14. ? 7a+ 5. ? 5b 15. ? 6b+ 6. ? 6a 16. ? 6c 7. ? 4b 17. ? 7a 8. ? 5c 18. ? 6a 9. ? 6b 19. ? 6a+ 10. ? 5c 20. La virgule 7c 19.4. Col de Bavella Area 3, Murzella

South 25 m. Multi pitch 35 m.

13 14

1. ? 6b+ 2. ? 5c 3. ? 6c+ 4. ? 7a+ 5. ? 6b 6. ? 6b 7. ? 6b+ 8. ? 6c 9. ? 6c/5c 10. ? 6a/5c 3 11. ? 5c/5c 12. ? 5c 13. ? 6a+ 14. ? 6c

10 11 12,13,14 9 1 2,3 4 5 8 6 7 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 19.5. Col de Bavella 1. ? 5c Area 4, Paterla Nera 2. ? 6c 3. ? 6a+ 4. ? 6c South 5. ? 6b 30 m. 6. ? 5c 7. ? 6c 8. ? 6b 9. ? 6a 10. ? 6b 11. ? 6c 12. ? 6b 13. ? 6b

7 8 9 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 10

11 12, 13 20. Sari Monte Santu

East 15 m. 30

48 35 46

42 33 44 32

14 25 46, 49 45 47, 10 15 16 34, 17 31 48 9 1112 13 24 29, 35 41 8 18 26 27 28 43 7 23 30 40 6 19 22 36 39 4 5 20 21 38 1 2 3 37

1. ? 4b 18. ? 6a 35. ? 5c 2. ? 5b 19. ? 6a+ 36. ? 7b 3. ? 6b 20. ? 4b 37. ? 7c 4. ? 6b 21. ? 5b 38. ? 7a+ 5. ? 5b 22. ? 6a 39. ? 7c+ 6. ? 4b 23. ? 5a 40. ? 7a 7. ? 6b 24. ? 5b 41. ? ? 8. ? 6a 25. ? 5b 42. ? 6a 9. ? 5b 26. ? 6a 43. ? 6c 10. ? 5b 27. ? 4b 44. ? 6c 11. ? 4a 28. ? 5b 45. ? 6a 12. ? 6a 29. ? 5a 46. ? 5a 13. ? 5a 30. ? 5a 47. ? 5a 14. ? 6a 31. ? 6a 48. ? 5b 15. ? 5a 32. ? 6b 49. ? 5a 16. ? 6a 33. ? 5a 17. ? 5b 34. ? 6c St. Quilico Sari Solenzara Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Direction Solenzara Drive from Solenzara in the direction of Ghisonaccia. A couple P of kilometres from the outskirts of Solenzara a small road (D68) will take you to Sari Solenzara. In the village, follow signposts for Monte Santu and drive on a very small road to a plateau where you could park. Follow the track for 20 minutes to the crag. 1. Peur de Rein 6b+ 17. Roulhing stone 7b+ 21. Punta di Capineru 2. Myrthes et legendes 5b 18. Trompe l’oeil 6c+ 3. Le bon coucher 3b 19. Fais de l’huile 6c 4. T’as fini’ ? 6a 20. Au soleil 5b All point of the compass 5. Aquarelle 3c 21. Le nez 6a 6. Assis couche’ 5c 22. Entre les jambes 6a Boulder 7. Jumporama 6c+ 23. C’est haut mais c’est beau 4c 8. Mine piteuse 5b 24. Site a’ faire en balade 5b 9. Crisp’x 6c 25. Escalope salade 6a 10. Essaie la vie et bien 5b 26. Mine de perle 6b 11. Le trou de fut 3a 27. Zoreille 6c 12. Crocodile roc 6c 28. No foot contest 7b+ 13. Multiplex 5b 29. Pierre fine 3a 14. Rase bitume 5c 30. Boule moussue 6b 15. Stalag 5c 31. Pif Paf Plouf 6c 16. Rolling stone 7a+ 32. L’oeil d’atlantide 6b 33. Un coup dans le fond 5a 34. Un petit feu de poutre 6a 35. Grosse caisse 6a 36. Un pilier de mines 4a 74 75 37. Coup au but 5c 34 35 76 38. Votre pere a’l’air mutine 5b 33 77 31 39. En face de la poutre 5b 36 37 78 40. Barflo 6c 80 41. Chaud les marrons 6a+ 32 38 79 42. Tendance 5b 6 43. Cachou lajaunie 7b 44. Arete avant qu’il ne soit pas trop tard 7a 5 71 72 73 45. Poisson bidon 6b+ 3 14 46. Par tout les trous 6a 4 47. Le monde conique 5b 44 45 13 68 48. Le penseur dine 5c 70 69 67 65 49. Plus elles mentent 6b 46 66 64 50. Corte mouille 7b+ 12 51. Connexion 7c+ 47 63 52. Peu pour bien diner 5b 39 62 43 53. Morte couille 7c 11 61 54. M&M 5b 2 42 53 54 55. Gouttez cette farce 5b 10 40 52 60 1 51 56. WRD 3a 30 50 56 59 57. WRC 5c 9 49 29 58. Erikki 6b 27 26 25 48 24 55 57 59. Petit creux 5b 8 28 41 60. No hand contest 4a 23 58 61. Je le dis au deux femmes 6b 22 62. U cafe’ 7a 21 63. U tarpe’ 6c 7 Pianottoli 64. U Birra 6b+ 19 20 65. Un plan qui vient de guinee 5b Caldarello 66. Le calot est dans le son 6a Direction 67. Pilier de bar 6b+ 17 68. La berge au ravin 6a 16 18 Bonifacio 15 69. Crackorama 6b 70. La pucelle mache sa cote 6b+ Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 71. couds le au fond 5b How to find the the crag: 72. Le fouilles curioses 3b 73. La population du cap 3c 74. Le grand blond ? On the road between Sartene and Bonifacio you 75. Le grand blanc 7b+ will find Pianottoli. From there you should drive in the 76. Point de Marc Trop doutx 5c direction of Caldarello. Follow a small road to the left for 77. Cours au but 3c approximately 500 metres to reach “Punta Campineru” 78. Le grand schtrupf 5c+ 79. Le fond de la quille 5b and these crags. 80. Il vend de la serge 3a