Corsica 1. Patrimonio No grades 2. Sant Flourenzu 3. Pietralba 4. I Curriali D80 5. Isula Rossa, Les Iles 6. Lumiu 7. Bonifatu Nonza 8. Suare Brando 9. Portu 1 Bastia 10. Cuccia D81 11. Caporalinu 5 D81 2 N197 12. Francardu N193 4 13. La Restonica 6 14. Ponte du Vecchio No grades 3 15. Boccognano Calvi 8 7 16. Mont Gozzi N193 17. Terre Sacrée Ponte Leccia D81 18. La reta 12 Calacuccia 10 19. Col du Bavella 11 20. Sari Monte Santu D84 Omessa 21. Punta di Capineru boulder Corte Porto 13 9 N200 N198 14 D69 15 Ghisoni D81 N193 Bocognano 16 Ajaccio D111 18 17 D83 Zicavo Solenzara 19 20 D268 Zonca Porto-Veccio N196 21 Bonafacio 1. Patrimonio South 25 m. N 42 41.831’ EO 09 22.002’ Direction Sant Flourenzu and Patrimonio P Direction P Col du Teghime Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Drive from Sant Flourenzu (Sant Florens), then pass the village Patrimonio and at the outskirts park your car in a sharp bend just by the crag. The routes are graded 6b to 7c. Limestone. 2.1. Sant Flourentzu Take me to 2.2. East 20 m. 1. The au Harem 8a 2. Regime Sensuel 7c+ 3. Nage Indienne 7a 4. ? 7c 5. Fragile 7a 6. ? 7b+ 7. Garde La Joie? 7b+ 8. Stratosphere 8a 9. Cuirs et Dentelles 7c+ 10. Stars sans strass 8a+ 11. Cosa Strechu 8a 6 Direction P Patrimonio 11 10 9 1 2 8 4 7 5,6 Sant 3 Flourentzu Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Drive from Sant Flourenzu (Sant Florens) in the direction of Bastia on road D81. After 3 km you will pass a bridge and after a bend to the right you will be in a pass where you will see this overhanging Limestone crag. Park at a lay-bay to the right. 2.2. Sant Flourentzu Take me to 2.1. East 10 m. 1. ? 7b 2. ? 7b+ 3. ? 7b+ 4. ? 7b 5. ? ? 6 6. Roi des Aulnes 8a 7. ? 8a 8. ? 6c 8 1 2 3 4 5,6 7 Direction P Patrimonio Sant Flourentzu Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Drive from Sant Flourenzu (Sant Florens) in the direction of Bastia on road D81. After 3 km you will pass a bridge and after a bend to the right you will be in a pass where you will see many overhanging Limestone crags. Park at a lay-bay to the right. Walk back and under the bridge to find this crag. 3.1. Pietralba Keymap South, Southwest 25 m. Parking N 42 32.268’ EO 09 10.980’ 3.2. 3.3. Direction I’ll-Rousse 3.4. Direction 3.5. Pitralba 3.6. Cemetery Chappel P N1197 Direction Ponte Leccia Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Turn of the road N1197 between I’ll-Rousse and Ponte Leccia just by the small village Petralba. From the village a road pass the main road on a bridge and on that side you will find a small Chappel, a Crucifix and 100 metres further on a Cementry. Park your car on a lay-bay shortly after and follow the track to this fantastic Limestone crag. 3.2. Pietralba South, Southwest 25 m. 10 11 12 5 3 4 2 6 7 8 9 1 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1. Le passe Muraille 6a+ 7. Sortilège 7a 2. Le nez dans le fleurs 6a+ 8. Dieu est dans le Gaz 8a 3. Mister Pof 6b 9. Estampe au soupir 8a+ 4. Le Clown voltigeur 7b 10. Chien de l’enfer 7c 5. ? 7a 11. ? ? 6. ? 7a 12. ? ? 3.3. Pietralba South, Southwest 15 m. 2 3 See route 8 no. 1 on 3.2. 7 6 5 4 1,2,3 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1. ? 5b 6. Encore une fois 6a+ 2. ? 5c 7. ? 6a 3. ? 6c 8. Bolts missing 4. ? 6b+ 5. L’Heure de la sieste 5c 3.4. Pietralba Southwest, West 25 m. N 42 32.160’ EO 09 10.759’ 5 3 4 1 7 2 6 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1. ? ? 6. ? ? 2. ? 7a 7. ? 7b+ 3. ? 8a 4. ? ? 5. ? ? 3.5. Pietralba South, Southwest 8 m. 5 6 4 1 2 3 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1. Corto Maltese 6a 4. A Cuerzola 7b+ 2. Bella Caterinetta 6a 5. ? 7c+ 3. Saveur Corsee 6b 6. ? 7a 3.6. Pietralba South, Southwest 25 m. 9 10 11 12 14 See route 13 no. 1 on 3.5. 3 5 4 8 7 6 1 2 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 1. ? ? 8. ? 7b+ 2. ? ? 9. ? 7b+ 3. ? ? 10. ? 7b 4. ? ? 11. Figolu 7a 5. ? ? 12. Vol au dessous d’un nid... 5c 6. Black out 7b 13. Univers uni 8a 7. ? 7a 14. Le rêve d’un corp sage 6c 4.1. Curriali Take me to 4.2. / 4.3. / 4.4. All directions of the compass 13 m. N 42 36.885’ EO 08 56.355’ 5 8 9 12 10 1 7 11 2 6 3 P 4,5 Spring 4.1. water P 4.3. 1. Lea 3 2. Titoute 3 4. Marc’andria 3 4.4. 4. Surprice sur prise 6a 5. La Voie Pascal 6a 6. La fourmilière 4 4.2. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 7. La Voie du figuier 5 8. A pappata 5+ How to find the the crag: 9. Qui s’y jette s’y coupe 6c 10. Au mal assis 4+ From Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), turn off in the direction of Sta Reparata-di 11. La suréquipée 5 Balagna. In that village, drive on a small road in the direction of Munticellu. After 12. La renfougne 5 a couple of kilometres you will pass a Spring and you could see the crag up to the right. Continue 200 metres and park at a lay-bay. Take the track 40 metres to the crag. A nice granit crag with a view over the Ligurian Sea. 4.2. / 4.3. Curriali Take me to 4.1. / 4.4. All directions of the compass 13 m. 4.3. 2 P 4 1,2 5 6 3 Spring 4.1. 1. Aquarium 7b water P 2. A Pressionne 7c+ 4.3. 3. Super Biceps 7a 4. Myrtilles pour les filles 6b 5. Fraises pour les balaises 6c+ 6. Citrons pour les garçons 6c 4.4. Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 4.2. How to find the the crag: From Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), turn off in the direction of Sta Reparata-di Balagna. In that village, drive on a small road in the direction of Munticellu. After a couple of kilometres you will pass a Spring and you could see the crag up to the right. Continue 200 metres and park at a lay-bay. Take the track 40 metres to the crag. A nice granit crag with a view over the Ligurian Sea. 4.4. Curriali Take me to 4.1. / 4.2. / 4.3. All directions of the compass 13 m. P 5 4 2 3 Spring 4.1. 1 water P 4.3. 1. U Falcu 6a 2. A Pussosa 6a 4.4. 3. Fracture sans conséquence 4 4. ? ? Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 5. La Pionnière 6b 4.2. How to find the the crag: From Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), turn off in the direction of Sta Reparata-di Balagna. In that village, drive on a small road in the direction of Munticellu. After a couple of kilometres you will pass a Spring and you could see the crag up to the right. Continue 200 metres and park at a lay-bay. Take the track 40 metres to the crag. A nice granit crag with a view over the Ligurian Sea. 5. Isula Rossa 1. ? 3 2. ? 3+ 3. ? 4 East, North 4. ? 4 8 m. 5. ? 4 N 42 38.671’ 6. ? 5 EO 08 55.967’ 7. ? 6a 8. ? 4 9. ? 6a+ 10. ? 5 11. ? 6a P 12. ? 6a+ 13. ? 6a 2 To the 1 3 4 lighthouse 5 6 7 8 North Sea Ruin 13 10 11 12 9 Copyright coronn AB, Sweden How to find the the crag: Follow the signposts for the harbour of Isula Rossa (I’ll-Rousse), continue to the big car park on the left, to the right you have the Hotel de la Pietra. park and walk on a gravelled road that leads to the lighthose l’île. After 200 metres, turn right on a track down to the crag. A perfect place for families, 50 metres to the water and no problems to bring a pram. 6. Lumiu West 20 m. N 42 34.626’ EO 08 50.310’ 9 Village 7 10 3 5 8 11 Lumiu 2 6 12 13 4 P 1 1. Patria Nostra 5 2. Spanu 4+ 3. Téfal 6b+ 4. Revelatta 5 Direction 5. Caldanu 6a Calvi Copyright coronn AB, Sweden 6. Carchinu 4 How to find the the crag: 7. San Damiano 4 8. Varcale 5 Follow signposts for Lumiu center. Park by the church or on a parallel road 9. Fornellu 5 higher in the village. Walk in the direction of an house that lookes as a small 10. Capite 6b+ castle. Bellow this house you will find signpost for “Chemin de Randonne”. 11. Vallibone 6a Follow this track, in a T-junction, hold left and walk the step track to the granit 12. Vignola 6a crag. If you take right in the T-junction you will reach the top and the crucifix.