Sapporo & Hokkaidō

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sapporo & Hokkaidō Why Go? Sapporo . 466 A frozen hinterland with a wild frontier spirit, Hokkaidō Hakodate . .477 (北海道) is defi ned by everything that Japan’s southern is- Otaru . 482 lands are not. Aside from a few major cities such as Sapporo (札幌), the untamed north country is a hauntingly beauti- Shikotsu-tōya ful wilderness, on par with the Canadian Rockies or New National Park . 489 Zealand’s South Island. Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu For the thrill-seeking traveller in search of sweeping vis- National Park . 498 tas, amazing wildlife, wide open roads and overwhelming Daisetsuzan National emptiness, Hokkaidō is a refreshing contrast to the crush- Park . 505 ing density of Honshū. In fact, the image of cruising across Akan National Park . .513 these hinterlands is associated with unfettered freedom in Shiretoko National the minds of the Japanese. Park . .518 From November to March, a Siberian cold descends on the island, providing some of the best skiing in Japan and the eastern hemisphere. When Hokkaidō thaws, and the bears awaken from their hibernation, the island lures hikers Best Places to Eat in search of rugged backcountry terrain and remote onsen. » Kani-honke (p 473 ) » Kita-no-aisukurīmu Yasan (p 484 ) When to Go » Takechan (p 497 ) Sapporo » Kunen-kōbō Yamadori °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 16/400 (p 505 ) 30/86 » Marukibune (p 515 ) 12/300 20/68 8/200 Best Places to 10/50 4/100 Stay 0/32 -10/14 0 » La Vista Hakodate Bay J FDNOSAJJMAM (p 479 ) » Ginrinsō (p 482 ) May–Aug Hiking Sep & Oct Dec–Feb Subzero » Green Leaf (p 487 ) season, peak- A brief but chill and Siberian ing in the drier intense autumn snowfalls herald » Akan Yuku-no-sato Tsu- months of June is marked by the the ski season. ruga (p 516 ) and July. changing leaves. » Biei Potato-no-Oka (p 504 ) History than the humble chipmunk!) and a host of The Ainu, Hokkaidō’s indigenous people, birds are abundant. The northern islands of 463 have shaped this island’s history. Rebun and Rishiri off er superb hiking and After the glaciers receded, the Ainu views of seaside cliff s, volcanic mountains settled here and called the land Ainu and (in season) hillsides of fl owers. Moshiri – Ainu meaning ‘human’ and Shiretoko National Park, in the north- Moshiri meaning ‘world’. Until the Edo east, is as remote as it gets: two-thirds of period (1600–1868), the Ainu and the Japa- it doesn’t have roads. Ponds as glassy as nese, remarkably, had relatively little con- refl ecting pools, rivers with brown bears tact with each other. However, this changed munching salmon, waterfalls more delicate when the Matsumae clan established a ma- than rice-paper paintings – the scenery is jor foothold for themselves in southwest- stunning, but tourists are told quite plainly ern Hokkaidō, and successfully bargained that if they venture into restricted areas with the Ainu. They succeeded in creating they will be fi ned, eaten by Higuma bears… a trade monopoly, which was lucrative for or both. the clan, but would ultimately prove disas- SAPPORO & HOKKAID trous to the Ainu people. 8 Getting There & Away By the end of the Edo period, trade and AIR colonisation had begun in earnest, and by Sapporo is the main hub of all Hokkaidō the time the Meiji Restoration began in traffi c, though Hakodate and other smaller 1868, the Ainu culture was under attack. cities also off er direct fl ights to many of Ja- Many Ainu customs were banned, women pan’s larger cities. were forbidden to get tattoos, men were prohibited from wearing earrings and the BOAT Kaitakushi (Colonial Offi ce) was created For those without Japan Rail (JR) Passes, to encourage mainland Japanese people domestic ferries from Honshū are a low-cost Ō to migrate northward. When the Meiji pe- alternative to train travel. Hokkaidō also riod ended, the Ainu had become de facto serves as a jumping-off point for the mari- second-class citizens, and by the start of the time route to Russia (see p 498 ). 20th century, the mainland Japanese popu- TRAIN lation on the island topped one million. If you are coming from Tokyo, consider tak- With world attention focused on ing either the Hokutosei sleeper train or the Hokkaidō when Sapporo hosted the 1972 more luxurious Cassiopeia to save time. Winter Olympics, Japan felt the need to ease Note that the shinkansen (bullet train) does restrictions on the Ainu. Sadly, however, not off er a service direct to Hokkaidō, at it would take another 26 years before sig- least not until 2015 at the earliest. Take it as nifi cant protections were written into law. far north as Shin-Aomori, and then transfer Though marginalised for much of the past to the tokkyū (limited express). century, the Ainu have recently won recognition as an important part of Japanese cul- 8 Getting Around tural heritage, and are re-establishing themselves. Today, the Ainu are proudly continu- AIR ing their traditions while still fi ghting for Sapporo and Hakodate both have fl ights to further recognition of their unique culture. all other major Hokkaidō cities. BICYCLE National Parks For fans of greener ways to get around, Hokkaidō boasts some of Japan’s oldest and Hokkaidō is a good place to tour by bike. most beautiful national parks. Daisetsuzan Charida (bicycle riders) are a common sight National Park, centrally located near Asahi- on major roads. Rider houses or cycling ter- kawa city, is a must-see. This stunning ex- minals (see p 742 ) are also cheap, common panse of mountain ranges, volcanoes, onsen and great places to meet other cyclists as (hot springs), lakes and hiking tracks is Ja- well as bikers. pan’s largest, covering 2309 sq km. Akan National Park, near Kushiro, has on- BUS sen, volcanoes and hiking. In spring, thou- Within cities, buses are convenient and usu- sands of cranes fl ock to Kushiro Shitsugen ally cheap. Ask about a norihō dai (all-day) National Park, one of Japan’s largest marsh- pass if you’re going to use them a lot – there’s lands; deer, foxes, shima-risu (none other often a substantial discount..

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