WEAVING TERMINOLOGY

When talking about any creative handicraft, Harness: Loom part that holds all the heddles. Also a knowledge of basic terms is important. The art referred to as the shaft. The plain weave requires a of weaving has its own vocabulary that you should 2-harness loom; 4- and 8-harness looms are needed become familiar with to understand the process for more intricate patterned weaves. The harness behind the art form. Below is a list of weaving- raises and lowers sets of warp yarns creating or related terms, followed by pattern drafts and loom changing the shed. diagrams. . Heddle: Loom part that holds an individual warp Back strap loom: A portable loom where the warp yarn. Generally, it is made from thin strips of metal yarns are secured around the waist of the weaver on but can be made of thread. one end and around a fixed object such as a tree at the other end. The weaver creates tension on the Inkle loom: A simple loom used for weaving warp by bending or leaning backward. narrow bands of warp-faced fabricLoom: Apparatus used to weave cloth. It consists of a Basket weave: A variation of the plain weave where framework to hold warp yarns in a fixed position 2 or more warp yarns pass over and under 2 or while the weft yarns are interlaced. more weft yarns. Monk’s cloth is an example. Overshot: A weave characterized by weft floats on a Beater: Loom part containing the reed used to plain weave ground done on a 4-harness loom. compact the weft or fill yarns against each other Pick count: The number of weft yarns per inch in a Dent: Spaces in the reed that the warp yarns are woven fabric; abbreviated PPI threaded through Pile weave: A weave characterized by an extra set Draft: Spaces in the reed that the warp yarns are of weft yarns protruding from the surface of the threaded through fabric. Extra yarn may be loop or cut.

EPI: Short for ends per inch; refers to the number Pin loom: A wooden frame with nails in groups of of warp yarns per inch in a woven cloth three around the four outer edges. Yarn is wrapped around the nails to create the warp and weft before Float: Any portion of a warp or weft yarn that the final weaving is done with a long needle. extends over two or more of the opposite yarns with a woven pattern Plain weave: A weave characterized by an extra set of weft yarns protruding from the surface of the fabric. Fill yarn: Same as weft yarn Extra yarn may be loop or cut. Reed: Held by the beater, the reed separates the the treadle(s) with their feet. Table looms will individual warp yarns. often have a hand lever to operate the raising and lowering of the harness(es). Rigid heddle loom: A simple frame loom where every other warp yarn passes through a hole in the Twill weave: A basic weave characterized by rigid heddle while the other warp yarns are free diagonal lines floating. The weaver controls the heddle by raising or lowering, thus changing the shed for the weft Warp: The lengthwise yarns that are secured to a yarns to be woven. loom for weaving

Satin weave: A basic weave characterized by long Warping frame or board: A wooden frame with floats on the surface pegs used for measuring and preparing warp yarns prior to putting the warp on the loom Selvage: The finished edge along the lengthwise edges formed by the fill yarns wrapping around Warp-faced: Weave in which the warp yarns are during the weaving process predominantly seen

Shed: The open space between warp yarns, created Weaving: The process by which two sets of threads when the warp yarns are spread apart or yarns are interlaced at right angles to form cloth

Shuttle: The vessel to carry the weft or fill yarns as Weft: The crosswise yarns, also known as fill yarns, they are woven which intersect the warp yarns on the loom during the weaving process Tapestry: A weft-faced plain weave in which the weft yarns create a decorative pattern using multiple Weft-faced: Weave in which the fill yarns are most types and or colors of yarn prevalent. A tapestry weave is weft-faced, as is an overshot weave. Treadle: Floor loom part used to raise and lower the harness(es) during weaving. The weaver operates

DRAFT EXAMPLES

Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave Basket Weave

2 LOOM DIAGRAMS

Permission granted for loom examples, courtesy of: https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ • Compiled by: Marjorie M. Baker Extension Associate for Clothing and Textiles December 2019

• Revised by: Jeanne Badgett Senior Extension Associate for Clothing and Textiles May 2020

Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability.

3