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Research Work on the History of the „Dirndl" and the Traditional Costume in the Present Day
Universidade Católica Portuguesa Faculdade de Ciências Humanas Semester: 2020/21 Course: Museologia e Património / Museum studies and heritage Professor: Maria Roque A research work on the History of the „Dirndl" and the traditional costume in the present day Name: Anja Fürstenberg Students number: 139120606 Email: [email protected] Table of contents 1. The concept of traditional costume 3 2. The History of the „Dirndl“ 5 2.1. The story of the Wallach Brothers 6 2.2. The transformation to the „Dirndl of today“ 7 3. Museums that exhibit the Dirndl and traditional costumes 9 Bibliography 13 Declaration of academic honesty 15 2 1. The concept of traditional costume This research work deals with the origin of the Dirndl, the „Tracht“ from the Alpine region. Tracht means "that which is worn" or "the way it is worn“ and can be translated in English with traditional costume or folks costume. But before the dirndl can be examined more closely, the concept of traditional costume must be defined more precisely. The term traditional costume is often used to designate a very precise idea of a type of clothing. But a specific use of the term is problematic, because the clothing referred to as costume was not only worn in the Bavarian Oberland on certain occasions, but in some cases a traditional dress code was also used in everyday life. Until the middle of the 18th century, the term "Tracht" was understood to mean the totality of what a person wore outwardly, not only clothing, but also hairstyles and even the general appearance of a person. -
Ralph W. Judd Collection on Cross-Dressing in the Performing Arts
http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt487035r5 No online items Finding Aid to the Ralph W. Judd Collection on Cross-Dressing in the Performing Arts Michael P. Palmer Processing partially funded by generous grants from Jim Deeton and David Hensley. ONE National Gay and Lesbian Archives 909 West Adams Boulevard Los Angeles, California 90007 Phone: (213) 741-0094 Fax: (213) 741-0220 Email: [email protected] URL: http://www.onearchives.org © 2009 ONE National Gay and Lesbian Archives. All rights reserved. Finding Aid to the Ralph W. Judd Coll2007-020 1 Collection on Cross-Dressing in the Performing Arts Finding Aid to the Ralph W. Judd Collection on Cross-Dressing in the Performing Arts Collection number: Coll2007-020 ONE National Gay and Lesbian Archives Los Angeles, California Processed by: Michael P. Palmer, Jim Deeton, and David Hensley Date Completed: September 30, 2009 Encoded by: Michael P. Palmer Processing partially funded by generous grants from Jim Deeton and David Hensley. © 2009 ONE National Gay and Lesbian Archives. All rights reserved. Descriptive Summary Title: Ralph W. Judd collection on Cross-Dressing in the Performing Arts Dates: 1848-circa 2000 Collection number: Coll2007-020 Creator: Judd, Ralph W., 1930-2007 Collection Size: 11 archive cartons + 2 archive half-cartons + 1 records box + 8 oversize boxes + 19 clamshell albums + 14 albums.(20 linear feet). Repository: ONE National Gay and Lesbian Archives. Los Angeles, California 90007 Abstract: Materials collected by Ralph Judd relating to the history of cross-dressing in the performing arts. The collection is focused on popular music and vaudeville from the 1890s through the 1930s, and on film and television: it contains few materials on musical theater, non-musical theater, ballet, opera, or contemporary popular music. -
An East Central European Folk Aesthetic As a Postmodern Garment Design Inspiration
Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Retrospective Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 1-1-2006 An East Central European folk aesthetic as a postmodern garment design inspiration Jessica Ann Havlicek Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd Recommended Citation Havlicek, Jessica Ann, "An East Central European folk aesthetic as a postmodern garment design inspiration" (2006). Retrospective Theses and Dissertations. 19420. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd/19420 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Retrospective Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. An East Central European folk aesthetic as a postmodern garment design inspiration by Jessica Ann Havlicek A thesis submitted to the graduate faculty in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE Major: Textiles and Clothing Program of Study Committee: Jean Parsons (Major Professor) Susan Torntore Amy Bix Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 2006 11 Graduate College Iowa State University This is to certify that the master's thesis of Jessica Ann Havlicek has met the thesis requirements of Iowa State University ~:. Signatures have been redacted for privacy 111 TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF FIGURES iv ABSTRACT vi CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION Purpose and research approach for this study 1 Terminology 1) Artwear 3 2) Post-modern 4 3) East Central European 6 4) Folk 9 CHAPTER 2. -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. -
Bob Thomas Papers, 1914-2004
http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt300030cb No online items Bob Thomas papers, 1914-2004 Finding aid prepared by Sarah Sherman and Julie Graham; machine-readable finding aid created by Caroline Cubé. UCLA Library Special Collections Room A1713, Charles E. Young Research Library Box 951575 Los Angeles, CA, 90095-1575 (310) 825-4988 [email protected] ©2005 The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved. Bob Thomas papers, 1914-2004 PASC 299 1 Title: Bob Thomas papers Collection number: PASC 299 Contributing Institution: UCLA Library Special Collections Language of Material: English Physical Description: 28.5 linear ft.(57 boxes and 3 flat boxes) Date (bulk): Bulk, 1930-1989 Date (inclusive): 1914-2004 (bulk 1930-1980s) Abstract: Since 1944 Bob Thomas has written thousands of Hollywood syndicated columns for The Associated Press and has authored (or co-authored) at least thirty books relating to the entertainment industry. The collection consists of materials related to his professional career as a writer and includes manuscripts, research and photographs for books by Thomas as well as Associated Press columns, research files, and a small amount of printed ephemera. Language of Materials: Materials are in English. Physical Location: Stored off-site at SRLF. Advance notice is required for access to the collection. Please contact the UCLA Library Special Collections Reference Desk for paging information. Creator: Thomas, Bob, 1922- Restrictions on Access COLLECTION STORED OFF-SITE AT SRLF: Open for research. Advance notice required for access. Contact the UCLA Library Special Collections Reference Desk for paging information. Use of audio materials may require production of listening copies. -
Forum Preparation Reading Thomas S
Forum Preparation Reading Thomas S. Monson, “Your Jericho Road,” Ensign, Feb 1989, 2 The reading below is an excerpt from a First Presidency Message. The word road is most intriguing. A generation ago movie moguls featured Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, and Doro- thy Lamour in films entitled The Road to Rio, The Road to Morocco, and The Road to Zanzibar. Earlier yet, Rudyard Kipling immortalized another road when he penned the lines, “On the road to Mandalay.” (Rudyard Kipling’s Verse, Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday and Co., 1946, p. 416.) My thoughts have turned to a road made famous by the parable Jesus told. I speak of the road to Jericho. The Bible enables us to relive the memorable event that made the Jericho Road famous for all time. A certain lawyer stood and tempted the Master, saying, “What shall I do to inherit eternal life? “He said unto him, What is written in the law? how readest thou? “And he answering said, Thou shalt love the Lord thy God with all thy heart, and with all thy soul, and with all thy strength, and with all thy mind; and thy neighbour as thyself. “And he said unto him, Thou hast answered right: this do, and thou shalt live. “But he, willing to justify himself, said unto Jesus, And who is my neighbour? “And Jesus answering said, A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves, which stripped him of his raiment, and wounded him, and departed, leaving him half dead. “And by chance there came down a certain priest that way: and when he saw him, he passed by on the other side. -
Download Booklet
120836bk BobHope 3/10/06 5:09 PM Page 2 1. Put It There Pal 2:23 6. My Favorite Brunette 3:06 12. Blind Date 3:12 16. Nobody 2:06 (Johnny Burke–Jimmy van Heusen) (Jay Livingston–Ray Evans) (Sid Robin) (Bert Williams–Alex Rogers From Road to Utopia From My Favorite Brunette With Margaret Whiting,The Starlighters & From The Seven Little Foys With Bing Crosby;Vic Schoen’s Orchestra With Dorothy Lamour; Billy May’s Orchestra With Veola Vonn; Orchestra conducted by Decca 40000, mx DLA 3686-A Paul Weston’s Orchestra Capitol 1042, mx 6018-1 Joe Lilley Recorded 8 December 1944, Los Angeles Capitol 381, mx 1691-3 Recorded 11 May 1950, Hollywood RCA Victor LPM 3275, mx F2PL 1443 2. Road to Morocco 2:33 Recorded 13 February 1947, Hollywood 13. Home Cookin’ 2:48 Recorded 1955, Hollywood (Johnny Burke–Jimmy van Heusen) 7. Sonny Boy 1:31 (Jay Livingston–Ray Evans) 17. I’m Tired 2:20 From Road to Morocco (Al Jolson–Buddy DeSylva–Lew Brown– From Fancy Pants (William Jerome–Jean Schwartz) With Bing Crosby;Vic Schoen’s Orchestra Ray Henderson) With Margaret Whiting,The Starlighters & From The Seven Little Foys Decca 40000, mx DLA 3687-A With The Andrews Sisters Billy May’s Orchestra Orchestra conducted by Joe Lilley Recorded 8 December 1944, Los Angeles From Radio’s Biggest Show broadcast, Capitol 1042, mx 6011-4 RCA Victor LPM 3275, mx F2PL 1443 3. The Big Broadcast of 1938: Radio 18 June 1946 Recorded 11 May 1950, Hollywood Recorded 1955, Hollywood Preview (Excerpts) introducing 8. -
Masterarbeit / Master's Thesis
a MASTERARBEIT / MASTER’S THESIS Titel der Masterarbeit / Title of the Master‘s Thesis „Fake, Fashion or the Reinvention of Tradition: Dirndl in Salzburg“ verfasst von / submitted by Marlene Gruber angestrebter akademischer Grad / in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts (MA) Wien, 2016 / Vienna 2016 Studienkennzahl lt. Studienblatt / A 066 656 degree programme code as it appears on the student record sheet: Studienrichtung lt. Studienblatt / CREOLE-Cultural Differences degree programme as it appears on and Transnational Processes the student record sheet: Betreut von / Supervisor: Univ.-Prof. Dr. Ayşe Çağlar Thanks to my supervisor Univ.-Prof. Dr. Ayse Çağlar for the guidance and insightful comments during the course of this thesis the interview partners Maria Aberer, Haimo Falkensteiner, Lorenz Forstenlechner, Hans Köhl, Marianne Meislinger and Katharina Rausch and all research participants involved in this study for their sincerity and willingness to support this paper my family for their unfailing support, patience and continuous encouragement throughout my years of study Table of contents INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................................................... 9 1 THE DIRNDL IN TIMES PAST .......................................................................................... 15 2 THE MYTH OF AUSTRIANESS ........................................................................................ 21 3 FROM TRADITION TO TASTE IN THEORY ..................................................................... -
Traditional Clothes from Austria Are Called “Trachten” and They Are Defined As Traditional Clothes from Different Regions Or Federal Countries
Austria and its “Trachten” Traditional clothes from Austria are called “Trachten” and they are defined as traditional clothes from different regions or federal countries. In general, there are two different types of clothes men can wear. On the one hand men can wear the “Steireranzug”, which consists of grey cotton trousers and a grey cotton jacket. These two pieces of clothing have little green details mostly made of wool and the buttons are staghorn buttons. On the other hand men can wear different kinds of “Lederhosen”. “Lederhosen” are trousers made of full-grain leather, which can have different colors – mostly between light brown and black. The color depends on which leather is used. There are short “Lederhosen”, which end just over the knees, some which are knee-long and long ones, which reach the ankles. Men combine “Lederhosen” either with a shirt, mostly checked and in different colors or with a shirt and a waistcoat on top of it. A Lederhosen can also be worn by women. Women normally wear “Dirndln”. A “Dirndl” is a dress and it consists of the dress itself, an apron on top of the dress and a blouse underneath the dress. “Dirndln” can be worn either in a short version or long version. For nearly every region in Austria there is a typical “Dirndl”. For example, there is the “Vulkanlanddirndl” – in English “volcano landscape Dirndl”. It is a typically East Styrian one. It got its name from the fact that in the east of Styria there were some active volcanos thousands of years ago. Another example is the typical Dirndl from our region. -
Oktoberfest GUIDE
Oktoberfest GUIDE © ADOBE STOCK OKTOBERFEST GUIDE | HISTORY WILHELM VON KOBELL/PUBLIC DOMAIN Oktoberfest Time Line Break out the buttery 1880 minister president of Bavaria. Electricity was introduced to the pretzels and the icy Oktoberfest, which included 400 1960 brews, it’s time for booths and tents. The last year of the horse races, and the first year lederhosen and dirndl Oktoberfest. But how 1881 were picked as the official garments. did this celebration of Bratwurst makes its first appearance. all things German come 1980 DIGITAL CAT FROM MÜNCHEN, BAVARIA/CREATIVE COMMONS 1892 Terrorists plant a pipe bomb at the about? The people at Beer is served in glass mugs. main entrance of the festival. More than 200 people were injured and 13 Kegerator (who know a 1914-1918 killed. thing or two about beer) Oktoberfest canceled due to World War I. 2005 put together a history. Quiet Oktoberfest hours are intro- 1919-1920 duced to curb the hard partying and Keep reading for some milestones in Oktoberfest replaced by a smaller make a family-friendly time for visiting. the life of the Oktoberfest. autumn festival after World War I. © ADOBE STOCK 2008 OCT. 17, 1810 1939-1945 A smoking ban at Oktoberfest causes The first Oktoberfest didn’t have any- Oktoberfest after it grew large enough Oktoberfest canceled because of unrest. Several politicians are voted out thing to do with beer at all. Instead, it to include contests and carnival World War II. It was again followed by a of office. was a wedding reception for Prince booths. smaller autumn festival at the war’s Ludwig of Bavaria to Princess Therese Soon after, it turned into a 16-day end. -
Music from the Bob Hope Collection
Music from the Bob Hope Collection Processed by the Music Division of the Library of Congress Music Division, Library of Congress Washington, D.C. 2012 Contact information: http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.music/perform.contact Catalog Record: http://lccn.loc.gov/2006560672 Finding aid encoded by Library of Congress Music Division, 2012 Finding aid URL: http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.music/eadmus.mu012018 Collection Summary Title: Music from the Bob Hope Collection Span Dates: 1932-1997 Bulk Dates: (bulk 1979-1990) Call No.: ML31.H67 Creator: Hope, Bob, 1903-2003 Extent: 15,000 items ; 122 containers ; 35.0 linear feet Language: Collection material in English Location: Music Division, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C. Summary: In a career that spanned nearly seventy years, American comedian and entertainer Bob Hope performed in theater, radio, film, and television, and in numerous public appearances, including his tours in support of the U.S. armed forces. Music from the Bob Hope Collection contains manuscript scores, instrumental parts, and lyrics for nearly 500 works used in Hope's films, television programs and personal appearances. Selected Search Terms The following terms have been used to index the description of this collection in the Library's online catalog. They are grouped by name of person or organization, by subject or location, and by occupation and listed alphabetically therein. People Alberti, Bob, pianist. Comstock, Frank. Harmon, Manny. Hill, J. (James L.), 1928- Hope, Bob, 1903-2003. Hope, Bob, 1903-2003. Myers, Pete. Perito, Nick. Rogers, Shorty, 1924-1994. Wolpe, Dave. Organizations Hope (Bob) Collection (Library of Congress) Subjects Motion picture music, Arranged.