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The lnternational Context Íor Textile Sites De Internationate Inhoud lnleiding 1 Voorwoord 2 Universele betekenis van de textielgeschiedenis 3 DeÍinitie, authenticiteit en bescherming van textielsites 4 Lijst van bekende textielsites met internationaal belang 5 Typologie en Íunctionele elementen van een textielÍabriek (textile mill) 6 Technologische transfer van lokale ontwikkelingen (in voorbereiding) 7 Vorming van nieuwe gemeenschappen (in voorbereiding) BibliograÍie (in voorbereiding) Lexicon van textieltermen (in voorbereiding) Ruïne spinnerij Levasseur (Fontaine Guérard. Normandië) I o c C o ntext vo o r Textielsite s door Mark Watson lnleiding Wat volgt is een schets ter beoordeling en aanvulling - gecompileerd door Mark Watson voor de Gespecialiseerde Textielsectie van het lnternationaal Comité voor de Conservatie van het lndustrieel Erfgoed (TICCIH). De tekst is besproken op meetings van de Londense sectie in 2000, in Barcelona, Spanje in 2001 en in 2003 in Euskirchen, Duitsland. ln 2001 werd een comité aangesteld met als leden: professor Claudio Tanier, DetleÍ Stendero Artur Zbiegieni, Carin Reinders, Dr Gracia Dorel-Ferrer, Dr Keith Falconero Dr José Manuel Lopes Cordeiro, Olga Deligianni-Traganou, Mark Watson en James Douet (secretaris). Dit essay is te bekijken op het TICCIH website [1] en werd voorgesteld aan de Associatie voor lndustrieel Edgoed Conferentie2OO2. Adriana Eckert Miranda (Brazilië), Sarah Jane Braziland Cameron Hartnell (Australië), Sophia Labadi (Frankrijk), Bartosz Walczak (Polen), José Manuel Lopez Cordeiro (Portugal), Michaela Ryskova (Tsjechië), Garry Miley (lerland), Michael Mende, DetleÍ Stender and Eckhard Bolenz (Duitsland) gaven hier tot dusver nuttig commentaar op. Wie mee wil denken over deze tekst, stuurt zijn opmerkingen naar mark.watson @ scotland.gsi.gov.uk. 1. Voorwoord Deze lijst werd opgesteld onder auspiciën globale strategie voor types van van TICCIH (The lnternational Committee for internationale monumenten die op the Conservation of the lndustrial Heritage\ het ogenblik als ondervertegen- woordigd worden beschouwd op als één van de'industrie-door-industrie', lijs- de Wereld Erfgoedlijst. len ter gebruik van ICOMOS om het Wereld Erfgoed Comité richtlijnen te bezorgen ten- 2. Universele betekenis van de textielgeschiedenis eindete kunnen bepalen welksite als interna- Sinds mensgeheugen is de textielproductie een culturele tionaal als van groot belang kan beschouwd activiteit. Handel in textiel groeide recht evenredig met worden. de smaak voor luxe. Het is geen som van voorstellen De Zijderoute vormde - samen le artefacten die hen in de voor ieder individueel land, noch met die voor specerijen - een museumcollecties vertegen- doet het Íormele nominaties voor brug tussen Azië en Europa, vér woordigen, oÍ in de nog altijd opname op de Wereld Erfgoedlijst: voor de handel in andere con- levendige gemeenschappen dit is de zaak van de openbare sumptiegoederen zoals suiker, aanwezig zijn. besturen van elk land afzonderlijk. thee oÍ kofÍie dat deed. De grote De textielhandel was en is een Het is vooral bedoeld om het middeleeuwse architectuur dankt wereldomvattende industrie Wereld Erfgoed Comité te helpen heel wat aan de textielhandel - gebaseerd op ruwe materialen bij het nemen van beslissingen in van Vlaamse lakenhallen (zoals vanuit de gehele wereld. een poging tot een consensus te in leper) en Engelse kloosters Het was om textiel te produce- komen tussen de opinies van de (Fountains Abbey) tot de kerken ren dat anders niet-productieve verschillende experts over wat van Parijs. gebieden zoals de grote scha- signiÍicante sites, monumenten en Omgekeerd zijn de textielproduc- penfokkerijen in Australië en landschappen zouden kunnen zijn. ten van sommige nomadische Nieuw Zeeland zich gingen En het maakt deel uit van de volkeren de belangrijkste culture- ontwikkelen. De productie van sisal (in Mexico dat zulks niet bestond voor de 3. Definitie van een textielsite en Sint-Helena), kokosvezel volwassen mannen. Soms was Een is plaats (Zanzibar), manilla (Filippijnen), de onevenwichtige balans tussen textielsite een die hennep en jute (Bangladesh) liet de geslachten voorlopig en werd onuitwisbaar geassocieerd was en is, met grote delen van Zuid en Zuidoost tegemoet gekomen aan bepaalde de handel in textielwaarvan de culturele Azië toe zich te ontwikkelen (oÍ behoeÍtes zoals door de speciaal impact fysisch evident aanwezig is. geëxploiteerd te worden). gebouwde logementhuizen voor Vanuit historisch oÍ technologisch ln het meest be- jonge, (de beroemde of ongehuwde vrouwen standpunt kan het van uitzonderlijk ruchte geval, de verplaatsing van Yankee girls van Lowell, USA). de katoenteelt van lndia naar de Doordat vrouwen hogere lonen universeel belang zijn, intrinsiek of als Zuidelijke Verenigde Staten, waar gingen verdienen, konden de exceptioneel voorbeeld representatief voor het verwerkt werd in grote sla- sociale consequenties diepgaand deze categorie van het cultureel erfgoed. venplantages, blijkt de conserva- zijn, zoals in Dundee en Paisly Het kan om een alleenstaand monument tie van de getuigenissen een (Schotland) waar de mannen gaan oÍ om een integraalcomponent van netelige aangelegenheid te zijn. noodgedwongen in het buitenland een complex cultureel landschap. Sindsdien is de katoenteelt werk gingen zoeken of in de verplaatst naar Egypte en de plaatselijke machinebouw. vroegere Sovjetrepublieken van De machinebouwindustrie ontwik- 3.1. lnternationaal belangrijke centraal Azié, gevolgd door de kelde zich verder, net zoals de sites kunnen, analoog met de inplantingen van katoenverwer- textielindustrie, en zocht naar Werelderfgoedsites, beschouwd kende bedrijven, ten nadele van nieuwe afzetmogelijkheden en worden als conform aan één van de oudere spin- en weefdistricten. naar een diversiteit van nieuwe de drie volgende types van De textielindustrie was ook producten. Waar mannen een rol monumenten: meestal de leidende sector in speelden in de textielproductie 3.1.1. lndividuele alleenstaan- veel landen waar zich de indus- (zoals de spinners dat deden in de belangrijke fabrieken en hun triële revolutie voltrok. Nieuwe Engeland) konden ze soms toebehoren. Deze zijn het moei- vormen van technologie, energie- genoeg fondsen verzamelen om lijkst te aanvaarden voor niet- productie, financiën, arbeid en nieuwe economische modellen te specialisten. Ze kunnen geklas- industriële organisatie werden in ontwikkelen. seerd worden als pionier, vlag- de textielfabriek op zo'n schaal De coóperatieven en de eerste genschip oÍ tijdscapsule. gecombineerd dat ze een vooraf- vennootschappen met beperkte 3.1.2. Alleenstaande grote spiegeling vormen van de heden- aansprakelijkheid zagen het licht textielcomplexen met bijbehoren- daagse geïndustrialiseerde en in de Lancashire katoendistricten de arbeiderswoningen en facilitei- geurbaniseerde samenleving. van Rochdale en Oldham, en zijn ten, die misschien niet als wereldwijd gekopieerd. 'model' kunnen beschouwd Een groot gedeelte van het worden (de als Werelderfgoed arbeiderspotentiêel was vrouw oÍ Het belang van de textielgeschie- opgenomen sites in Crespi kind, zodat de behoefte aan denis kan dus een wijds gebied d'Adda en San Leucio, ltaly, fabriekswetgeving en opvoeding bestrijken en de aspecten ervan Saltaire en New Lanark in het UK zich deed voelen op een ogenblik universele waarden claimen. vallen onder deze categorie). WHS-site Crespi d'Adda (talië) Notre-Dame-de Bondeville (Normandië) 10 T e Deze fabrieken kunnen ook als van dq gemeenschappen die ze pionier, vlaggenschip oÍ tijdscap- willen voorstellen - niet in de lijst sule beschouwd worden. opgenomen. De hergelokaliseerde 3.1.3. Geïntegreerde textiel- wolfabrieken in Upper Canada landschappen met meer dan één Village, Ontario, Canada en onderneming, sommige met Welsh Folk Museum, St Fagan's geassocieerde productieactivitei- Wales, de collectie van volmo- ten, transport en aandrijfkrachtin- lens in Astra, Sibiu, Roemeniè of frastructuur, en arbeidershuisves- de replica van de weefloods in ting. Ook andere industrieën Bocholt l!J, Duitsland zijn van (landbouw, machineconstructie, groot belang voor de nauwgezette zeep- en zoutziederijen en zo research die in documentatie en verder) kunnen daarnaast be- reconstructie is gegaan. Maar ze staan maar zijn meestal onderge- missen de authenticiteit die enkel schikt of ondersteunend aan de kan bereikt worden door behoud belangrijkste textielindustrie (de in situ. in het Werelderfgoed opgenomen Sommige musea herbergen sites van Derwent Valley Mills in machines van andere bedrijven. het UK, Shirakawa-go en Goka- Belangrijke musea in Nederland yama, Japan vallen onder deze (Tilburg), Noorwegen (Soling- categorie). Eén of meerdere stadt), Belgié (Gent) oÍ het daaronder begrepen fabrieken Amerikaanse Museum of Ameri- kunnen eveneens beschouwd can Textile History (Boott Mills, worden als pionier, vlaggenschip Lowell) en in het UK bijvoorbeeld oÍ tijdscapsule. BradÍord lndustrial Museum (Moorside Mills) en het Dundee Alle sites moeten lndustrial Heritage (Verdant i. De test doorstaan van authenti- Works) bevatten belangrijke en in citeit in design, materiaal, vak- sommige aspecten unieke manschap of settings en in het collecties die de studie van de geval van het cultureel land- textielgeschiedenis aanschouwe- schap, hun distinctieÍ karakter en lijk maken. Op zichzelÍ zijn de componenten. Het Werelderfgoed gebouwen waarin ze zijn geves- comité stelt dat reconstructie tigd interessant, maar niet slechts acceptabel is vanuit de internationaal merkwaardig te basis
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    '^f'UCT Recent Cotton Mill Construction AND Engineering Joseph Nasmf LIBRARY ^NSSACHOs^^ 1895 ADVERTISEMENTS. OH every uea«. .n.ion up *° "^^^°'"'f^ MILL GEARING IN At-U ITS BRANCHES, ^^BELTft RORE DRUMS, to any si5e. TURBINES HYDRAULIC MACHINERY Market BARRING ENGINES, the best i n tne UP TO ANY PRESSURE JRIPLE EXPANSION MILl .h irnn WorKs & Pncenix ADVERTISEMENTS. The HIGHEST AWARD fop FEED-WATER HEATER at CHICAGO EXHIBITION has been granted to GREEN'S IlVIF>Rl01tf'EI> I^JLTENT FUEL ECONOMISEH SPECIALLY CONSTRUCTED ON THE FROM Improved Strengthened Patterns J-HT TJSE3 .A.T ALL THE PRINCIPAL STEAM USERS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. SPECIALITY FOR ELECTRIC LIGHT INSTALLATIONS ORIGINAL INVENTORS, PATENTEES, AND SOLE MAKERS: 2, Exchange Street, MANCHESTER. " " Works : WAKEFIELD. Telegrams : ECONOMISER RECENT COTTON MILL CONSTRUCTION AND ENGINEERING. JOSEPH NASMITH, EDITOR OF THE "TEXTILE RECORDER"; AUTHOR OF "MODERN COTTON SPINNING machinery"' AND "THE STUDENTS' COTTON SPINNING." JOHN HEYWOOD, Deansgate and Ridoefield, Manchesteb. 2, AMEN CORNER, LONDON, E.G. 22, Paradise Street, Liverpool. 33, Bridge Street, Bristol. IX VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY, NEW YORK. ur. n%^ PREFACE. fTlHE following pages are in great part a reproduction of a special article which appeared in the Textile Recorder for May, 1894. It had been represented to the author that there was need of some article from which accurate informa- tion relating to modern methods of mill construction could be obtained. This led to the work being done, and the manner in which a large edition of the Textile Recorder was taken up demonstrated the interest felt in it. No claim is made for originality in the treatment of the subject, the book being avowedly a compilation of facts derived from actual practice.
  • The Staple Trade of Dundee. Info and Handy Links

    The Staple Trade of Dundee. Info and Handy Links

    Legal Stuff • Contact Us • Constitution FDCA Home Information Records Dundee's Maritime Past The Staple Trade of Dundee. Info and Handy Links From the 19th Century History of Dundee Dundee Crest For an account of the textile manufactures of Dundee by steam-power, it is not necessary to go farther back than the beginning of the 19th century. At that time there was a considerable production of linens, chiefly OSNABURGS and sheeting ; but the yarn was wholly spun by hand, and of course the days of Dundee City Council Archives Website weaving by steam-power were yet distant. The yarn was chiefly supplied from the spinning-wheels of thrifty housewives in the country districts, who congregated in the High Street on market days for its sale. Old Dundee Painting The manufacturers bought it as it came off the reel, in small parcels varying from one to a dozen spindles. The yarn thus obtained was necessarily unequal in quality and size, which rendered the production of uniform cloth a matter of difficulty, while the precariousness of the supply restricted the operations of large manufacturers. The greater proportion of cloth was produced by individual weavers, History of Dundee in their own dwellings, who supplied themselves with sufficient yarn for a web, which, on being passed at Broughty Castle the Stamp Office, was offered from door to door until some cloth-merchant gave the price asked for it. To obviate the inconvenience and loss of time involved in this primitive mode of conducting business, a class of dealers sprang up, who moved about the country districts, bought up yarn, distributed flax to be spun on hire, and collected and acted as agents for the production of cloth.
  • University of Dundee Dundee Discussion Papers in Economics

    University of Dundee Dundee Discussion Papers in Economics

    University of Dundee Dundee Discussion Papers in Economics 192 Morelli, Carlo; Tomlinson, Jim Publication date: 2006 Link to publication in Discovery Research Portal Citation for published version (APA): Morelli, C., & Tomlinson, J. (2006). Dundee Discussion Papers in Economics 192: Women and Work after the Second World War: a Case Study of the Jute Industry, circa 1945-1954. (Dundee Discussion Papers in Economics; No. 192). University of Dundee. General rights Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in Discovery Research Portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from Discovery Research Portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain. • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal. Take down policy If you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. Download date: 29. Sep. 2021 Dundee Discussion Papers in Economics Women and work after the second world war: a case study of the jute industry, circa 1945- 1954 Carlo Morelli and Jim Tomlinson Department of Working Paper Economic Studies, No. 192 University of Dundee, August 2006 Dundee. ISSN:1473-236X DD1 4HN Women and work after the second world war: a case study of the jute industry, circa 1945-1954 Carlo Morelli*and Jim Tomlinson** University of Dundee • *[email protected] • ** [email protected] Correspondence address: Professor Jim Tomlinson, School of Humanities, University of Dundee, Dundee, DD1 4HN.