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De Internationate The lnternational Context Íor Textile Sites De Internationate Inhoud lnleiding 1 Voorwoord 2 Universele betekenis van de textielgeschiedenis 3 DeÍinitie, authenticiteit en bescherming van textielsites 4 Lijst van bekende textielsites met internationaal belang 5 Typologie en Íunctionele elementen van een textielÍabriek (textile mill) 6 Technologische transfer van lokale ontwikkelingen (in voorbereiding) 7 Vorming van nieuwe gemeenschappen (in voorbereiding) BibliograÍie (in voorbereiding) Lexicon van textieltermen (in voorbereiding) Ruïne spinnerij Levasseur (Fontaine Guérard. Normandië) I o c C o ntext vo o r Textielsite s door Mark Watson lnleiding Wat volgt is een schets ter beoordeling en aanvulling - gecompileerd door Mark Watson voor de Gespecialiseerde Textielsectie van het lnternationaal Comité voor de Conservatie van het lndustrieel Erfgoed (TICCIH). De tekst is besproken op meetings van de Londense sectie in 2000, in Barcelona, Spanje in 2001 en in 2003 in Euskirchen, Duitsland. ln 2001 werd een comité aangesteld met als leden: professor Claudio Tanier, DetleÍ Stendero Artur Zbiegieni, Carin Reinders, Dr Gracia Dorel-Ferrer, Dr Keith Falconero Dr José Manuel Lopes Cordeiro, Olga Deligianni-Traganou, Mark Watson en James Douet (secretaris). Dit essay is te bekijken op het TICCIH website [1] en werd voorgesteld aan de Associatie voor lndustrieel Edgoed Conferentie2OO2. Adriana Eckert Miranda (Brazilië), Sarah Jane Braziland Cameron Hartnell (Australië), Sophia Labadi (Frankrijk), Bartosz Walczak (Polen), José Manuel Lopez Cordeiro (Portugal), Michaela Ryskova (Tsjechië), Garry Miley (lerland), Michael Mende, DetleÍ Stender and Eckhard Bolenz (Duitsland) gaven hier tot dusver nuttig commentaar op. Wie mee wil denken over deze tekst, stuurt zijn opmerkingen naar mark.watson @ scotland.gsi.gov.uk. 1. Voorwoord Deze lijst werd opgesteld onder auspiciën globale strategie voor types van van TICCIH (The lnternational Committee for internationale monumenten die op the Conservation of the lndustrial Heritage\ het ogenblik als ondervertegen- woordigd worden beschouwd op als één van de'industrie-door-industrie', lijs- de Wereld Erfgoedlijst. len ter gebruik van ICOMOS om het Wereld Erfgoed Comité richtlijnen te bezorgen ten- 2. Universele betekenis van de textielgeschiedenis eindete kunnen bepalen welksite als interna- Sinds mensgeheugen is de textielproductie een culturele tionaal als van groot belang kan beschouwd activiteit. Handel in textiel groeide recht evenredig met worden. de smaak voor luxe. Het is geen som van voorstellen De Zijderoute vormde - samen le artefacten die hen in de voor ieder individueel land, noch met die voor specerijen - een museumcollecties vertegen- doet het Íormele nominaties voor brug tussen Azië en Europa, vér woordigen, oÍ in de nog altijd opname op de Wereld Erfgoedlijst: voor de handel in andere con- levendige gemeenschappen dit is de zaak van de openbare sumptiegoederen zoals suiker, aanwezig zijn. besturen van elk land afzonderlijk. thee oÍ kofÍie dat deed. De grote De textielhandel was en is een Het is vooral bedoeld om het middeleeuwse architectuur dankt wereldomvattende industrie Wereld Erfgoed Comité te helpen heel wat aan de textielhandel - gebaseerd op ruwe materialen bij het nemen van beslissingen in van Vlaamse lakenhallen (zoals vanuit de gehele wereld. een poging tot een consensus te in leper) en Engelse kloosters Het was om textiel te produce- komen tussen de opinies van de (Fountains Abbey) tot de kerken ren dat anders niet-productieve verschillende experts over wat van Parijs. gebieden zoals de grote scha- signiÍicante sites, monumenten en Omgekeerd zijn de textielproduc- penfokkerijen in Australië en landschappen zouden kunnen zijn. ten van sommige nomadische Nieuw Zeeland zich gingen En het maakt deel uit van de volkeren de belangrijkste culture- ontwikkelen. De productie van sisal (in Mexico dat zulks niet bestond voor de 3. Definitie van een textielsite en Sint-Helena), kokosvezel volwassen mannen. Soms was Een is plaats (Zanzibar), manilla (Filippijnen), de onevenwichtige balans tussen textielsite een die hennep en jute (Bangladesh) liet de geslachten voorlopig en werd onuitwisbaar geassocieerd was en is, met grote delen van Zuid en Zuidoost tegemoet gekomen aan bepaalde de handel in textielwaarvan de culturele Azië toe zich te ontwikkelen (oÍ behoeÍtes zoals door de speciaal impact fysisch evident aanwezig is. geëxploiteerd te worden). gebouwde logementhuizen voor Vanuit historisch oÍ technologisch ln het meest be- jonge, (de beroemde of ongehuwde vrouwen standpunt kan het van uitzonderlijk ruchte geval, de verplaatsing van Yankee girls van Lowell, USA). de katoenteelt van lndia naar de Doordat vrouwen hogere lonen universeel belang zijn, intrinsiek of als Zuidelijke Verenigde Staten, waar gingen verdienen, konden de exceptioneel voorbeeld representatief voor het verwerkt werd in grote sla- sociale consequenties diepgaand deze categorie van het cultureel erfgoed. venplantages, blijkt de conserva- zijn, zoals in Dundee en Paisly Het kan om een alleenstaand monument tie van de getuigenissen een (Schotland) waar de mannen gaan oÍ om een integraalcomponent van netelige aangelegenheid te zijn. noodgedwongen in het buitenland een complex cultureel landschap. Sindsdien is de katoenteelt werk gingen zoeken of in de verplaatst naar Egypte en de plaatselijke machinebouw. vroegere Sovjetrepublieken van De machinebouwindustrie ontwik- 3.1. lnternationaal belangrijke centraal Azié, gevolgd door de kelde zich verder, net zoals de sites kunnen, analoog met de inplantingen van katoenverwer- textielindustrie, en zocht naar Werelderfgoedsites, beschouwd kende bedrijven, ten nadele van nieuwe afzetmogelijkheden en worden als conform aan één van de oudere spin- en weefdistricten. naar een diversiteit van nieuwe de drie volgende types van De textielindustrie was ook producten. Waar mannen een rol monumenten: meestal de leidende sector in speelden in de textielproductie 3.1.1. lndividuele alleenstaan- veel landen waar zich de indus- (zoals de spinners dat deden in de belangrijke fabrieken en hun triële revolutie voltrok. Nieuwe Engeland) konden ze soms toebehoren. Deze zijn het moei- vormen van technologie, energie- genoeg fondsen verzamelen om lijkst te aanvaarden voor niet- productie, financiën, arbeid en nieuwe economische modellen te specialisten. Ze kunnen geklas- industriële organisatie werden in ontwikkelen. seerd worden als pionier, vlag- de textielfabriek op zo'n schaal De coóperatieven en de eerste genschip oÍ tijdscapsule. gecombineerd dat ze een vooraf- vennootschappen met beperkte 3.1.2. Alleenstaande grote spiegeling vormen van de heden- aansprakelijkheid zagen het licht textielcomplexen met bijbehoren- daagse geïndustrialiseerde en in de Lancashire katoendistricten de arbeiderswoningen en facilitei- geurbaniseerde samenleving. van Rochdale en Oldham, en zijn ten, die misschien niet als wereldwijd gekopieerd. 'model' kunnen beschouwd Een groot gedeelte van het worden (de als Werelderfgoed arbeiderspotentiêel was vrouw oÍ Het belang van de textielgeschie- opgenomen sites in Crespi kind, zodat de behoefte aan denis kan dus een wijds gebied d'Adda en San Leucio, ltaly, fabriekswetgeving en opvoeding bestrijken en de aspecten ervan Saltaire en New Lanark in het UK zich deed voelen op een ogenblik universele waarden claimen. vallen onder deze categorie). WHS-site Crespi d'Adda (talië) Notre-Dame-de Bondeville (Normandië) 10 T e Deze fabrieken kunnen ook als van dq gemeenschappen die ze pionier, vlaggenschip oÍ tijdscap- willen voorstellen - niet in de lijst sule beschouwd worden. opgenomen. De hergelokaliseerde 3.1.3. Geïntegreerde textiel- wolfabrieken in Upper Canada landschappen met meer dan één Village, Ontario, Canada en onderneming, sommige met Welsh Folk Museum, St Fagan's geassocieerde productieactivitei- Wales, de collectie van volmo- ten, transport en aandrijfkrachtin- lens in Astra, Sibiu, Roemeniè of frastructuur, en arbeidershuisves- de replica van de weefloods in ting. Ook andere industrieën Bocholt l!J, Duitsland zijn van (landbouw, machineconstructie, groot belang voor de nauwgezette zeep- en zoutziederijen en zo research die in documentatie en verder) kunnen daarnaast be- reconstructie is gegaan. Maar ze staan maar zijn meestal onderge- missen de authenticiteit die enkel schikt of ondersteunend aan de kan bereikt worden door behoud belangrijkste textielindustrie (de in situ. in het Werelderfgoed opgenomen Sommige musea herbergen sites van Derwent Valley Mills in machines van andere bedrijven. het UK, Shirakawa-go en Goka- Belangrijke musea in Nederland yama, Japan vallen onder deze (Tilburg), Noorwegen (Soling- categorie). Eén of meerdere stadt), Belgié (Gent) oÍ het daaronder begrepen fabrieken Amerikaanse Museum of Ameri- kunnen eveneens beschouwd can Textile History (Boott Mills, worden als pionier, vlaggenschip Lowell) en in het UK bijvoorbeeld oÍ tijdscapsule. BradÍord lndustrial Museum (Moorside Mills) en het Dundee Alle sites moeten lndustrial Heritage (Verdant i. De test doorstaan van authenti- Works) bevatten belangrijke en in citeit in design, materiaal, vak- sommige aspecten unieke manschap of settings en in het collecties die de studie van de geval van het cultureel land- textielgeschiedenis aanschouwe- schap, hun distinctieÍ karakter en lijk maken. Op zichzelÍ zijn de componenten. Het Werelderfgoed gebouwen waarin ze zijn geves- comité stelt dat reconstructie tigd interessant, maar niet slechts acceptabel is vanuit de internationaal merkwaardig te basis
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