The Canary Islands

Naturetrek Tour Report 9 - 16 November 2019

Caralluma burchardii by Jessica Turner Blue Chaffinch by Andrew Bray

Spectacled Warbler by Andrew Bray Mount Teide by Jessica Turner

Report by by Jessica Turner Images provide by Andrew Bray and Jessica Turner

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report The Canary Islands

Tour participants: Jessica Turner and Andrew Bray (leaders) with 15 Naturetrek clients

Summary

Our late-autumn trip to the ‘Islands of eternal spring’ of Tenerife, La Gomera and Fuerteventura, did indeed bring sunshine but also, this year, strong trade winds, which made finding some species rather a challenge. We had superb views of Tenerife Blue Chaffinch, which were a regular in the hotel garden, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, and the Canarian subspecies of Spectacled Warbler which turned up as Andrew was demonstrating the calls to listen out for! Some of the plant life stretched those used to Northern European species and, while many species were not currently in flower, we enjoyed the displays of Canary Sea Daffodil and Canary Twayblade and marvelled over the strange-looking plants of Caralluma burchardii and Ceropegia fusca, with their maroon flowers coming from apparently dead stems. Shearwaters and whales, lizards and butterflies contributed to the supporting cast, with many island endemics, while delicious food and good company all helped to make this a very enjoyable week.

Day 1 Saturday 9th November

Fly to Tenerife South – La Chafiras – Road to Vilaflor Eight group members met with Jessica and Andrew at Gatwick’s North Terminal for our 6.50am flight to Tenerife South airport. Unfortunately, the flight was rather delayed in departing, but we landed at about 12.30, meeting up with the remaining group members who had flown from Manchester and East Midlands airports without hitch. We soon collected luggage and the minibuses and left the airport, driving the short distance west to Las Chafiras, where we enjoyed an excellent and welcome lunch at Casa Pedro.

Refreshed and replete, we then drove on for just five minutes to a rather un-prepossessing water tank and area of waste ground. However, it provided a good start, a roosting Black-crowned Night Heron being the first find, with three Little Egrets and some Spanish Sparrows as well. Although sunny at times, the wind was extremely strong, so not very conducive for birds or birdwatchers! We added Mallard and Moorhen, and a European Pond Terrapin was swimming. The other side of the road allowed an introduction to the very different flora of the island, with Balsam Spurge (Euphorbia balsamifera), Canary Island Candle Plant (Kleinia neriifolia), with seed heads looking like tiny puffs of smoke, the Sea Heath Frankenia capitata with a few tiny pink flowers, Canary Samphire (Schizogyne sericea) with yellow flowers, the curious Ceropegia fusca, looking like dead grey stems but with maroon flower buds, Canary Island Cactus Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis), and the naturalised, prickly, Prickly Pear (Opuntia dellinii). Two Berthelot’s Pipits were well camouflaged against the sandy ground but were seen running, and two Painted Lady butterflies were being blown about.

As it had been a very early start for most of the group, we decided to start to make our way up to the small town of Vilaflor, which is situated on the T-21 route to Mount Teide. En route we had a good view of a Kestrel (canariensis), and also saw Plain Swift, Barn Swallow, and a flock of Canaries. We stopped not far from Vilaflor to admire the tall Sonchus canariensis, not in flower, also seeing the broom Tagasaste (Chamaecytisus proliferus) and several other species. More Berthelot’s Pipits and more Canaries were among the birds. We arrived at the Hotel Spa Villalba in Vilaflor, our base for the first four nights, where we received a warm welcome and soon settled in to our rooms. With no wind, due to the sheltering effect of Mount Teide, some of the group were out

The Canary Islands Tour Report

immediately in the grounds, seeing Canary Islands Chiffchaff, the Tenerife subspecies of African Blue Tit (teneriffae) and the Tenerife subspecies of Goldcrest (also known as Tenerife Kinglet), amongst other birds.

After time to settle in, we met to discuss the day and future plans, before sitting down to an excellent meal. We soon retired to bed after a long, but interesting day.

Day 2 Sunday 10th November

Anaga Peninsula This morning some of the group met to explore the grounds of the hotel. Although it was initially slow, birds included two Great Spotted Woodpeckers (canariensis), African Blue Tit, Tenerife Goldcrest, Canary Islands Chiffchaff and Atlantic Canaries. Just before breakfast, a couple of female Blue Chaffinch were seen.

After a delicious breakfast, and with picnic supplies on board, we headed off to the north-eastern end of the island, to the Anaga Peninsula. Leaving our hotel in beautiful sunshine, we retraced our route towards the coast and joined the motorway towards Santa Cruz, which we bypassed. As we cleared the shelter of Mount Teide, we found the wind was again strong. Some Azorean Yellow-legged Gulls were seen, and a surprise mammal sighting was a Kangaroo! Arriving on the peninsula, we first visited the recreation area of Llanos de los Viejos, in the Laurisilva woodland. Here we noted Azores Laurel (Laurus novocanariensis), some infected with Laurel Fungus (Laurobasidium lauri). We also noted Tree Heath (Erica arborea) and Broad-leaved Holly (Ilex perado subsp. platyphyllos), with a good crop of red berries, plus Canary Holly (Ilex canariensis). Two species of Sow-thistle, Anaga (Sonchus congestus) and S. leptocephalus were growing on a roof. A Bolle’s Pigeon was moving about in the tops of the trees, apparently collecting twigs, but was frequently hidden from view by the foliage. We had good views of the Canary Island subspecies of Common Chaffinch and could see the brighter plumage of the male. Canary Islands Chiffchaffs were flitting around, and Tenerife Goldcrest was seen well.

We moved on, making our way down the steep roads towards the sea, noting the massive Chain Fern (Woodwardia radicans) cascading down the banks and seeing the beautiful orange-red flowers of Canary Bellflower (Canarina canariensis) by the road. We parked at Chinamada, where we admired a Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) that was much older than the house or garden surrounding it. It was windier here, but not too bad, and we set off along the track towards the headland, soon finding a lovely array of new plants. These included the white Bugloss Echium aculeatum, the fern Macaronesian Polypody (Polypodium macaronesicum), masses of spikes of the green-flowered orchid Canary Twayblade (Habenaria tridactylites), and Lavandula buchii, with some flowers. The Stonecrop family was well represented, with rosettes of Aeonium ciliatum, the small-leaved, almost shrub-like Aeonium lindleyi, and the tiny plants Monanthes anagensis which was slightly trailing with pinkish leaves, and tight rosettes of the tiny, extremely rare Monanthes wildpretii, which only grows at Chinamada. There was also Clubmoss Crassula (Crassula muscosa), looking like a clubmoss, as well as the true Mediterranean Clubmoss (Selaginella denticulata). Birds were generally ‘hunkered down’, but Spanish Sparrow, Berthelot’s Pipit, Canary Islands Chiffchaffs and Sardinian Warblers (leucogastra) were recorded.

We ate our excellent picnic near the minibuses, in the shelter of the buildings, enjoying the local wines, bananas, cheeses and dried figs that were part of the spread. We then moved on to the Mirador at Cruz de Carmen, where we had the chance to use the facilities and have a quick coffee, as well as enjoying the extensive views. We

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looked again at the laurel, some of which had Hare’s-foot Fern (Davallia canariensis) growing as an epiphyte. A number of Canary Islands Chiffchaffs were calling and feeding in the vegetation.

Next, we drove to the much quieter viewpoint of La Zapata. Here, while looking, unfortunately unsuccessfully, for Laurel Pigeons, we also noted the tall-stemmed Sonchus acaulis (the leaf-rosette of which is stemless), and the short-stemmed Anaga Sow-thistle (Sonchus congestus). There were also rosettes of the Giant Houseleek (Aeonium urbicum), also with woody stalks. Distant trees with white flowers were Visnea mocanera. We then returned to Llano de los Viejos, which was rather busy. However, we managed to have good view of Canary Islands Goldcrest (also known as Tenerife Kinglet), plus the Canary Island subspecies of Robin.

It was then time to set off on our lengthy journey back to the hotel, seeing Plain Swifts, a few Swallows and a nice Kestrel (canariensis) en route. We had a break before meeting to update our lists and enjoy another delicious meal, and soon retired after a full and satisfying day.

Day 3 Monday 11th November

La Gomera An early start today saw us on the road at 6.45am, en route with a beautiful sunrise, down to the port at Los Christianos, for the ferry to San Sebastian on the adjacent island of La Gomera. On our arrival at the harbour, Jessica went off to book our tickets, while Andrew organised breakfast. From the café we could see Yellow- legged Gulls. Once on board the ferry, we made our way to the upper deck to sea watch during the one-hour crossing. As we set off, we noted large numbers of crabs, probably a Tidal Spray species, on the concrete blocks of the harbour wall. The sea was relatively calm at first, and we had brief views of a couple of Short-finned Pilot Whales, with some also seeing a Bottlenose Dolphin. We also saw a rather small number of Cory’s Shearwaters, with some giving good views, and a Manx Shearwater was seen as we were approaching La Gomera.

On our arrival, we made our way out of the harbour, and parked on the edge of the town, where we explored the park. We soon found some tiny African Grass Blue butterflies, including some nice views of a male in the sun. At the opposite of the size scale, several majestic Monarchs were flying round the flowering trees, landing to give some great views. Canary Islands Chiffchaff, Blackcap (heineken), African Blue Tit, Common Blackbird (cabrerae), and Spanish Sparrow were other species recorded. After a coffee break, while the leaders bought the picnic, we returned to the vehicles to drive up into the hills.

Our first stop was after a road tunnel on the GM-1, where we explored a section of the old road. A couple of Northern Ravens (tingitanus) and a Kestrel were overhead, while Barbary Partridge were seen below us including, for some, a flock of a dozen birds. Plants included bushes of Canary Dock (Rumex lunaria), Canary Island Lavender (Lavandula canariensis), a White False Sage (Sideritis lotsyi), Gomeran False Sage (Sideritis gomerae) and more Micromeria varia. Where it was sheltered and sunny, we saw Boettger’s Lizard, Bath White and Painted Lady butterflies, and singles of Blue Emperor and Red-veined Darter dragonflies.

Continuing higher, we made our way into the laurel forests of the Garajonay National Park, seeing a Common Buzzard and a Grey Wagtail as we drove. We stopped at the El Riejo viewpoint for our picnic. The mist was rolling in over the hillsides, but the spot was sheltered. Canary Islands Chiffchaff and Kestrel were recorded, but

The Canary Islands Tour Report

no pigeons were seen. Plants included Tree Pellitory (Gesnouria arborea), Capitana (Phyllis nobla), Wax Myrtle (Myrica faya) and Canary Laurel (Apollonias barbujana) with numerous protuberances on the leaves due to galls, which is characteristic for this species.

Replete after another delicious picnic, we moved on to the Mirador El Bailadero. Here there was a lot of the Gomeran Bugloss (Echium acanthocarpum), and we also noted Juniperus cedrus, the Gomeran endemic variety of Flat Houseleek (Aeonium canariense var. subplanum), both Greenovia aurea and Greenovia diplocycla and Lungwort lichen (Lobaria pulmonaria). Nearby on the verge were the mauve-flowered Erysimum bicolor. Birds were again rather elusive. We continued along the loop through the island, dropping down out of the Laurisilva onto the GM-2, where we stopped at Mirador Les Roques de Agando. Here, in the full force of the wind we could hardly stand up, so we quickly moved on down to a slightly more sheltered layby not far from San Sebastian, where another Raven was seen, and Berthelot’s Pipit glimpsed. It was rather a relief to return to the calm of the harbour café for refreshments while we waited for the ferry. Three Cory’s Shearwaters were seen from the harbour wall.

The return journey was sunny and quite blustery at first, with spray forming rainbows, before calming as we reached the sheltering influence of Tenerife. This time we saw good numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters, often very close to the boat. On the mammal front, some had brief views of three Short-finned Pilot Whales and also a Bryde’s Whale (pronounced ‘broodus’), which resembles a Minke Whale.

On our arrival back at Los Christianos, we soon made our way to Vilaflor, after another excellent day.

Day 4 Tuesday 12th November

Punta de Teno, north coast, El Teide We needed another early start today as we needed to reach our first destination before the access road closed at 10am. After breakfast at 7.30, we left at 8am and drove back down towards Los Christianos, this time taking the route north. As we were waiting to leave, more than 50 Plain Swifts were overhead, and a couple of Ravens were seen en route. We reached the barrier in good time and took the winding road which hugs the cliffs along to the end of the point, where we parked. It was again windy, with some sun. We looked for Lizards, managing a few views of the northern form of Tenerife (also known as Western Canaries) Lizard. The waves were breaking over the rocks round the lighthouse, and both Sally Lightfoot and Tidal Spray crabs were found. The scenery looked as though it was Mexico, with extensive stands of Canary Island Cactus Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis), Balsam Spurge and Euphorbia lamarckii. We found plenty of the fleshy-leaved ‘umbellifer’ Canary Samphire (Astydamia latifolia), plus flowering examples of Neochamelea pulvulenta (yellow flowers), Lycium intricatum (purple flowers) and Salsola divaricata (pinkish sepals).

Moving on, we retraced our route, seeing some Canary Tree Mallow (Malva canariensis, formerly Lavatera acerifolia) near the barrier. We stopped in Los Silos for coffee and some excellent pastries, then joined the main west-east coast road, stopping at Barranco de Ruiz for our picnic in relative shelter. Here, butterflies included Canary Island Large White and Pain Tiger, as well as numerous Painted Ladies and Small Whites. We noted some distant Canary Sea Daffodils (Pancratium canariense) on the cliff faces of the barranco and, as we were leaving, saw them on the road edge, which allowed closer examination and photo opportunities. We next stopped at the nearby La Grimona viewpoint, in the hope of seeing Laurel Pigeon, but were unsuccessful, as the only pigeons were Feral. However, the cliffs were carpeted with the Sea Daffodil, the Silk Vine Periploca laevigata was showing both flowers

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and its strange seed pods, and we used the scope to see the strange, grey-green twig-like Ceropegia dichotoma, with its yellow-green flowers.

We continued along the coast road, turning inland at Orotava to climb up El Teide. We moved from the coastal vegetation, through Sweet Chestnut (Castanea sativa), then into the Laurisilva, complete with drizzle, and the Tree Heath-Juniper zone, with orange-fruited Canary Strawberry Trees (Arbutus canariensis). We entered the Canary Island Pine zone and cleared the cloud, reaching the caldera at over 2,000 metres. We stopped at the visitor centre at El Portillo, where plants included the Teide White Broom (Spartocytisus supranubius) and the much smaller Teide Sticky Broom (Adenocarpus viscosus), and the Canary Island Wallflower (Erysimum scoparium) but all of these were just showing leaves and the remains of seed pods, while the scabious Pterocephalus leptoceras had a single flower. Most impressive, though, were and the enormous dead flower spikes of Teide Bugloss (Echium wildpretii), many of which were two to three metres tall, which has carmine pink flowers in the summer. Unfortunately, we discovered the visitor centre was just closing, but we were able to wander round the display of native plants, and a Tenerife Grayling was seen here. We then stopped at Mirador Llano de Ucanca, to photograph the peak of Teide in the evening light. A Berthelot’s Pipit was almost at our feet, and we had excellent views of a Great Grey Shrike (koenigi). On the other side of the road was Pimpinella cumbre, a Cow Parsley relative that only grows here.

We then climbed up out of the caldera at Boca Tauce, and dropped down to our final stop, the picnic site of Las Lajas, set among Canary Island Pines. Here, Blue Chaffinches were coming to drink from a puddle in a cut tree stump, and we had excellent views, especially of a couple of males. From there it was not far back down to Vilaflor, where we had time for some to enjoy a swim and use the spa facilities, before we relaxed over dinner after experiencing some of the best of the island of Tenerife. After dinner and completing the checklist, some ventured out on a night drive, reporting two different bat species (large and small), but no owls.

Day 5 Wednesday 13th November

Transfer to Fuerteventura; Barranco de Rio Cabras Today we had to say goodbye to Vilaflor and the Hotel Villalba. After a final excellent breakfast, and views of Blue Chaffinch for some, we thanked the staff, packed the vehicles and set off down towards the coast, stopping for some excellent views of a Great Grey Shrike, before joining the motorway north. As we had plenty of time, we returned to Llano de los Viejos, to look again for Laurel Pigeons. We could hear at least one calling but, despite much searching, they remained elusive. A Bolle’s Pigeon, however, was much more obliging, sitting against a tree trunk, giving excellent scoped views in reasonable light. There was a chilly wind and at times drizzly, so we decided it was time to head for the airport, where we had lunch in the café.

Our 2.20pm flight was delayed in departing but took us over the northern edge of Gran Canaria before touching down in the more desert-like island of Fuerteventura at about 3.50pm. It did not take long to get our new minibuses and load up, and we first headed for the nearby Barranco de Rio Cabras. Any water attracts wildlife, and we spent the end of the daylight enjoying some great birding. As we arrived, a small flock of about seven East Canarian subspecies of Lesser Short-toed Larks (polatzeki) gave some great views. The long-staying Dwarf Bittern was in full view throughout our visit, and we were able to watch it hunting and catching a frog and other prey. There were also four Black-winged Stilts, a Green Sandpiper, and Little Egret in the barranco below, plus a Hoopoe, a Great Grey Shrike and a number of Canary Island Stonechats (also called Fuerteventura Chat). Overhead, we saw two Egyptian Vultures (majorensis), several Common Buzzard (insularum), plus large numbers

The Canary Islands Tour Report

of Northern Ravens (tingitanus). An unexpected delight was a White Stork which flew in, giving good views as it circled before settling out of sight, this species is a seasonal but unusual visitor to the islands. Plants were sparse on the desert ground, but we noted the small-leaved Salsola vermiculata, while Canary Tamarisk (Tamarix canariensis) was growing in the barranco.

As we were leaving, we could see one of the Egyptian Vultures on a pylon, preparing to roost. It was getting late, so we continued our journey south to the Hotel Melia Gorriones, our base for the next three nights. After dropping our bags in our rooms, we met for dinner in the large restaurant, where we discussed plans for the following morning.

Day 6 Thursday 14th November

Costa Calma; Jandia; La Lajita At 6.45am, we met up outside the hotel for the 10-minute drive to the desert plain behind Costa Calma, to look for desert specialities. As we drove very slowly, with stops to scan, we saw Yellow-legged Gulls and several Ravens, then a flock of Lesser Short-toed Larks with a Berthelot’s Pipit amongst them. A couple of Black-bellied Sandgrouse were seen in flight, and we had good views of Great Grey Shrike. A couple of Cream-coloured Coursers were glimpsed distantly in flight by some, but despite careful looking, we failed to find any more, or any Houbara Bustards, although we did note the large number of different bird tracks in the sand. We eventually reached tarmac roads again and returned to the hotel for breakfast.

After a good breakfast, we met up at 10am to go to the Jandia National Park in the south of the island. After seeing Cattle Egrets as we drove through Morro Jable, we parked on the peninsula, and soon found the very rare, and very localised, cactus-like Euphorbia handiensis, some in flower. This species is found only in two areas on the Jandia peninsula, and nowhere else on the planet, making it one of the rarest species in the Canary Island flora. It was cloudy and windy, but a couple of Atlantic Lizards and an East Canaries Gecko were seen by various group members. Birds were sparse but included Common Kestrel (dacotiae) and Berthelot’s Pipit, plus views of a Pallid Harrier and a Barbary Falcon (now recognised as a subspecies of Peregrine Falcon).

Moving back into Morro Jable, we stopped for a short time near the old zoo, where we had good views of Monk Parakeets, two Hadada Ibis, a Rose-ringed Parakeet, Cattle Egret and a Monarch butterfly. We then visited the golf course, where there were many more Cattle Egrets plus Little Egrets, two Ruddy Shelduck, and several Hoopoes and Fuerteventura Chats which gave some really good views. We drove north, having lunch at a nice Pizzeria on the edge of Costa Calma. Replete, we continued a short distance north to the Oasis Park at La Lajita. Walking up the hill, we had good views of Laughing Dove, a possible hybrid Barbary x Collared Dove, Common Buzzard and a Grey Heron.

We dropped some of the group at the hotel and then returned for another visit to the desert, retracing our morning route. Again, we saw Lesser Short-toed Larks and Great Grey Shrike. Then Roy located a group of at least 17 Black-bellied Sandgrouse resting, and we had excellent and extended scoped views of them as they walked, fed, preened and roosted, appearing very relaxed. David, further on from the group and on his own, then had a wonderful view of a Houbara Bustard (fuerteventurae) trotting through the low scrub, but it dropped out of sight and could not be re-found.

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We then returned to the hotel in time for some ‘down-time’ before meeting to update the checklist and then have dinner.

Day 7 Friday 15th November

Costa Calma; Pajaras; Castillo de Lara; Vega de Rio Palmas A second day of meeting at 6.45am, saw most of the group on our way, once again, to the Costa Calma desert, for an early excursion to try and find the elusive Houbara Bustard. Again, the Lesser Short-toed Larks were seen, but it was otherwise very quiet, not helped we felt, by a couple ‘exercising’ their large, lurcher-type dog in the central area. We had seen the people and dogs running free the previous morning, in the same area; this would have been a major disturbance for any wildlife. We also made a couple of stops to look at plants: a yellow- flowered Restharrow Ononis hesperia, and the strange, spiny bush Convolvulus caput-medusae. Two Ravens were extremely tame, looking for food from us.

After breakfast, we gathered at 10am, seeing African Grass Blue butterflies in the hotel grounds and a Great Grey Shrike on an overhead line. Roy, exploring, had seen Red-vented Bulbul and a couple of Curlew. We headed north-west to La Pared, leaving the main road to visit a local goat farm, the goats just being returned to the field after milking. Berthelot’s Pipits, Spanish Sparrows, White Wagtails, a group of about 15 Ruddy Shelduck and Great Grey Shrike were early sightings, although the wind made viewing quite difficult. We moved to a better position, with the wind to our backs, and soon located a lovely Trumpeter Finch, feeding happily by the fence and giving good views. Meanwhile a flock of over 50 Ruddy Shelduck took off from a reservoir and flew over, calling loudly. We also found Desert Gourd (Citrullus colocynthis), with many spherical yellow-green fruits, looking rather as though someone had thrown out old apples for the animals; this probably native species is, in fact, toxic, certainly to people. As we were leaving, some of the group saw the Fuerteventura race of African Blue Tit (degener), with its very dark (almost black) cap.

We moved on to the town of Pajaras, where there was time to explore and have coffee while Andrew and Jessica shopped for the picnic. Here, we saw a Sardinian Warbler (leucogastra) in the barranco and a Common Chaffinch, only a vagrant here. Moving on again, we took the winding road through the dramatic hills, passing the silvery foliage of the endemic yellow daisy Asteriscus sericeus. We stopped at the Mirador de Las Peñitas, where we had excellent views of Berthelot’s Pipits and a smart male Spanish Sparrow.

We now continued our journey to a hilltop recreation/picnic area at Castillo de Lara, where we had our picnic. Great Grey Shrike and Sardinian Warbler gave great views, and other birds included Ravens and Common Buzzard. Several Barbary Ground Squirrels were chasing around; this species was introduced in 1965 and is now locally abundant. We found the rare and curious Caralluma burchardii, with its maroon-brown flowers. Other plants included bushes of very spiny Asparagus pastorianus, some with green berries. African Blue Tits showed well here.

The last main location for the afternoon was at Vega de Rio Palmas, which usually has some natural running water attracting birds and insects; however, today it was absolutely dry. We looked at the grey leaves of the Bird’s-foot Trefoil Lotus lancerottensis as an Atlantic Lizard disappeared into the scrub. As we walked through the Giant Reeds (Arundo donax), we also noted Woody Fleabane (Dittrichia viscosa) and Sharp Rush (Juncus acutus), and Laughing Dove was in a gully. Roy reported a probable Spectacled Warbler and, back at the vehicles, Andrew

The Canary Islands Tour Report

was showing him the plumage and playing the call to clarify the sighting. It was indeed a Spectacled Warbler (orbitalis) as it suddenly appeared in response to the unintentional call, singing and calling loudly, and giving amazing views to all of us!

We set off back to the hotel, stopping at the highest mirador, where Ground Squirrels and Ravens competed for attention with the views. On our return, various group members explored the grounds and saltmarsh areas of the beach, reporting a Red-vented Bulbul, Hoopoes, four Black-tailed Godwits, Sandwich Tern, Common Tern and 18 Whimbrel.

From here we returned to our hotel in time to explore, start packing and freshen up before our final dinner together.

Day 8 Saturday 16th November

Salinas del Carmen Today was the final day of the tour and, after an early breakfast at 7.30am, we set off at 8.30 in the direction of the airport. The Grey Grey Shrike was again on the wire near the hotel entrance, and the Bulbul had been heard. We made a short stop at the coast and salt pans of Salinas del Carmen. Bird-wise it was very quiet, but we managed to find a Ringed Plover, a Curlew and a Little Egret as well as Yellow-legged Gulls.

We then made our way to the airport where we said goodbye to two who were staying on, and those on later flights, while the rest of us checked in for our flight to Gatwick. The plane left nearly on time, and we had a smooth journey.

We all agreed that we had had an excellent week in good company, and had enjoyed some fascinating wildlife, especially the magnificent male Blue Chaffinches. Andrew and Jessica would like to thank the group for their interest, good humour and spotting skills, and we hope to see you again on future occasions.

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Tour Report The Canary Islands

Species Lists

Birds (✓=recorded but not counted; H = heard only;

* = Near Endemic Species (also occurring on Madeira & Azores); ** = Endemic Species

November Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara koenigi (Int.) 12 2 Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea 2 ✓ 3 Mallard Anas platyrhyncos 4 4 Plain Swift * Apus unicolor ✓ 3 ✓ ✓ 1 5 "Canary Islands" Houbara Bustard Chlamydotis undulata fuertaventurae 1 6 Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis 17 1 7 Rock Dove Columba livia ✓ ✓ ✓ 8 Rock Dove (Feral) Columba livia feral ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 9 Bolle's Pigeon** Columba bollii 1 2 10 Laurel Pigeon** Columba junoniae H 11 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 12 African Collared Dove ( / Barbary Dove) Streptopelia roseogrisea or hybrid ? 13 Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis ✓ 10 14 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 2 15 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 4 16 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 1 17 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 2 18 Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus 18 19 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata 3 1 20 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 4 21 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 1 22 Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor ✓ 23 Azorean Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis atlantis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 24 Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis 4 25 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 1 26 Cory's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea borealis ✓ 27 Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus 1

The Canary Islands Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 28 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 1 29 Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash 2 30 Dwarf Bittern Ixobrychus sturmii 1 31 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 1 32 Western Cattle Egret Bulbulcus ibis ✓ 2 33 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 1 1 1 1 34 "Canary Islands" Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus majorensis 5 35 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 1 36 "Canary Islands" Common Buzzard Buteo buteo insularum 1 2 2 3 1 2 37 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 1 ✓ ✓ 38 Great Spotted Woodpecker (Tenerife) Dendrocopos major canariensis 1 2 4 1 1 39 Common Kestrel (W Canary Islands) Falco tinnunculus canariensis 1 3 ✓ ✓ 40 Common Kestrel (E Canary Islands) Falco tinnunculus dacotiae ✓ ✓ ✓ 1 41 Peregrine Falcon (Barbary Falcon) Falco peregrinus pelegrinoides 1 42 Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus ✓ 43 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri 1 44 Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor koenigi 1 1 ✓ ✓ 1 45 Northern Raven Corvus corax tingitanus 3 6 ✓ ✓ ✓ 2 46 African Blue Tit (Fuertaventura) Cyanistes teneriffae degener 5 47 African Blue Tit (Tenerife) Cyanistes teneriffae teneriffae 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ 48 Lesser Short-toed Lark Alaudala rufescens polatzeki (E Canaries) ✓ ✓ ✓ 49 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer 2 1 50 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 1 6 3 1 51 Canary Islands Chiffchaff** Phylloscopus canariensis 4 ✓ 3 2 ✓ 52 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 1 53 Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis 1 54 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala leucogastra 4 1 H 8 55 Goldcrest (Tenerife & La G) Regulus regulus teneriffae 1 ✓ 56 Common Blackbird Turdus merula 1 57 Common Blackbird (W Canaries) Turdus merula cabrerae 5 6 2 2 58 European Robin (Tenerife) Erithacus rubecula superbus 1 2 59 Canary Islands Stonechat* Saxicola dacotiae 2 ✓ ✓

2 © Naturetrek January 20

The Canary Islands Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 60 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis 3 1 ✓ ✓ ✓ 61 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 1 1 62 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 1 1 1 ✓ ✓ 63 Berthelot's Pipit* Anthus berthelotii berthelotii 4 ✓ ✓ ✓ 64 Common Chaffinch (Tenerife & La G) Fringilla coelebs canariensis ✓ 1 ✓ 65 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs coelebs 1 66 Tenerife Blue Chaffinch** Fringilla teydea 5 8 1 67 Atlantic Canary* Serinus canaria ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 2

Mammals (D = Dead) 1 Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops truncatus 1 2 Short-finned Pilot Whale Globicephala macrorhynchus 5 3 Bryde's Whale Balaenoptera brydei 1 4 Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus ✓ 5 Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus 1 6 Bat Spp - 1 2 1 7 Mouflon Ovis orientalis orientalis D

Reptiles (Lo = Leader Only) 1 Boettger's Lizard Gallotia caesaris 1 2 Tenerife Lizard Gallotia galloti 6 3 Atlantic Lizard Gallotia atlantica ✓ LO 4 East Canary Gecko Tarentola angustimentalis 1 5 European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis 1

Fish 1 Flying Fish sp. LO

Butterflies & Moths 1 Canary Islands Large White Pieris cheiranthi ✓ 2 Small White Pieris rapae ✓ ✓ ✓

The Canary Islands Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 3 Bath White Pontia daplidice ✓ 4 African Grass Blue Zizeeria knysna ✓ ✓ 5 Monarch Danaus plexippus ✓ ✓ ✓ 6 Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus ✓ ✓ 7 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 8 Tenerife Grayling Hipparchia wyssii ✓ 9 Hummingbird Hawk-moth Macroglossum stellatarum ✓

Other Invertebrates 1 Blue Emperor Anax imperator ✓ ✓ ✓ 2 Hawker sp. ✓ 3 Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombii ✓ ✓ ✓ 4 Egyptian Grasshopper Anacridium aegyptium ✓ 5 Red-winged Grasshopper Oedipoda germanica ✓ 6 Grasshopper sp. ✓ 7 Coccineal Scale Insect Dactylopius coccus ✓ 8 Wasp sp. ✓ 9 Ichneumon Wasp sp. ✓ 10 Red Ichneumon Wasp sp. ✓ 11 Canary Bumble Bee Bombus canariensis ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 12 cf Tidal Spray Crab Plagusia depressa ✓ 13 A Sally Lightfoot Crab Grapsus adscensionis ✓ 14 Crab sp. ✓

4 © Naturetrek January 20

Tour Report The Canary Islands

Plants

(* = Atlantic Islands endemic; ** = Canary Islands endemic; *** = Single Island endemic; [ ] = Introduced or planted) Nomenclature contained within this list follows the taxonomic amendments, based on DNA analysis, made by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and the Missouri Botanic Garden, and following The Plant List, an internationally accepted list of vascular plant families, published and maintained by these two institutions.

Scientific name Common name Day Location

PTERIDOPHYTES FERNS & ALLIES Lycophytes Clubmosses & Quillworts Sellaginellaceae Lesser Clubmoss Family Selaginella denticulata Mediterranean Clubmoss 2 Chinamada

Leptosporangiate Ferns True Ferns Aspleniaceae Spleenwort Family Asplenium hemionitis* Mule's Fern 2 Llanos de los Viejos Asplenium onopteris Irish Spleenwort 2 Llanos de los Viejos

Blechnaceae Hard Fern Family Woodwardia radicans* Chain Fern 2 Roadsides

Davalliaceae Hare's-foot Fern Family Davallia canariensis* Hare's-foot Fern 2 Llanos de los Viejos

Dennstaedtiaceae Bracken Family Pteridium aquilinum Bracken 2 Roadsides

Polypodiaceae Polypody Family Polypodium macaronesicum Macaronesian Polypody 2 Chinamada

GYMNOSPERMS CONIFERS Cupressaceae Cypress Family Juniperus cedrus 3 El Bailadero Juniperus turbinatus subsp canariensis 1 Chinamada

Pinaceae Pine Family Pinus canariensis** Canary Islands Pine 1 Common at altitude

ANGIOSPERMS FLOWERING PLANTS Pre-Dicots Primitive Angiosperms Lauraceae Laurel Family Apollonias barbujana Canary Laurel 3 El Riejo Laurus novo-canariensis*(L. azorica) Azores Laurel 2 Llanos de los Viejos Persea indica 2 Llanos de los Viejos

Eu-Dicots True Dicotyledons Adoxaceae Moschatel Family Viburnum rigidum** Canary Island Guelder Rose 2 Llanos de los Viejos

Amaranthaceae (Chenopodiaceae) Goosefoot Family Atriplex glauca subsp. ifniensis - 5 Barranco de Rio Cabras Patellifolia procumbens* - 6 La Lajita Salsola divaricata - 4 Teno

The Canary Islands Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Day Location

Salsola vermiculata - 5 Barranco de Rio Cabras

Apiaceae Carrot Family Astydamia latifolia Canary Samphire 4 Teno Bupleurum salicifolium 3 El Bailadero Drusa glandulosa - 3 El Bailadero Foeniculum vulgare Fennel 1 Widespread Pimpernella cumbrae 4 Teide caldera

Apocynaceae Periwinkle Family Caralluma burchardii** - 7 Castillo de Lara Ceropegia dichotoma** Tenerife Wax Plant 4 La Grimona Ceropegia fusca** - 1 Las Chafiras Periploca laevigata** - 4 La Grimona in flower

Aquifoliaceae Holly Family Ilex canariensis** Canary Island Holly 2 Llanos de los Viejos Ilex perado subsp. platyphylla* Broad-leaved Holly 2 Llanos de los Viejos

Araliaceae Ivy Family Hedera canariensis** Canary Ivy 2 Llanos de los Viejos

Boraginaceae Borage Family Echium acanthocarpum*** Gomeran Bugloss 3 El Bailadero Echium aculeatum** - 2 Chinamada in flower Echium giganteum*** Giant White Bugloss 2 Chinamada (leaves) Echium wildpretii*** Teide Bugloss 4 Teide caldera Heliotropium crispum (H. bacciferum, H. erosum) - 7 Vegas de Rio Palmas

Brassicaceae Cabbage Family Cakile maritima Sea Rocket 7 Hotel beach Descurainia millefolia** Canary Flixweed 2 Chinamada Erysimum bicolor* - 3 El Bailadero (in flower) Erysimum scoparium*** Canary Island Wallflower 4 Teide caldera Lobularia canariensis** Canary Islands Alison 2 Chinamada (in flower)

Cactaceae Cactus Family [Opuntia dellinii] - 1 Common [Opuntia ficus-indica] Barbary Fig 1 Common

Campanulaceae Bellflower Family Canarina canariensis** Canary Bellflower 2 Near Chinamada

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Centranthus ruber Red Valerian 4 Roadsides N coast Pterocephalus lasiospermus*** - 4 Teide caldera

Casuarinaceae Sheoak Family [Casuarina equisetifolia] - 7 Hotel beach

Cistaceae Cistus Family Cistus monspeliensis Narrow-leaved Cistus 1 Troad to Vilaflor

The Canary Islands Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Day Location

Cistus symphytifolius Canary Cistus 4 Road to Teide

Compositae (Asteraceae) Daisy Family Andryala pinnatifida** - 2 Chinamada in flower Argyranthemum callichrysum*** Gomera Yellow Daisy 3 Los Roques Artemisia thuscula (A. canariensis **) - 2 Chinamada Asteriscus (Nauplius) sericeus*** Fuerteventura Sea-daisy 7 Mountain roadsides Bidens pilosa Bur Marigold 2 Chinamada in flower Carlina salicifolia* Canary Carline Thistle 2 Chinamada in flower Carlina xeranthemoides** - 1 Road to Vilaflor in flower Cheirolophus teydis*** Teide Knapweed 4 Teide caldera Cynara cardunculus Cardoon 3 Near San Sebastian Dittrichia viscosa Woody Fleabane 1 Road to Vilaflor in flower Kleinia neriifolia** Canary Islands Candle Plant 1 Widespread Launaea arborescens Barbed-Wire Bush 1 Widespread Pericallis steetzii*** Gomeran Cinararia 3 Roadsides La Gomera Pericallis tussilaginis - 2 Roadsides Anaga Phagnalon rupestre Phagnalon 3 El Bailadero Schizogyne sericea** Canary Samphire 1 La Chafiras Senecio angulatus 2 Chinamada in flower Silybum marianum Milk Thistle 2 Chinamada Sonchus acaulis** Stemless Sow-thistle 2 La Zapata Sonchus canariensis** Canary Sow-thistle 1 Road to Vilaflor Sonchus congestus** Anaga Sow-thistle 2 Llanos de los Viejos Sonchus gomerensis*** - 3 El Bailadero Sonchus leptocephalus (Atalanthus pinnatus)** - 2 Llanos de los Viejos Sonchus oleraceus Smooth Sow-thistle 4 Barranco del Ruiz

Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved Bindweed 1 Road to Vilaflor Convolvulus canariensis** Canary Bindweed 2 Chinamada Convolvulus caput-medusae** 7 Costa Calma Cuscuta planiflora Small-seeded Dodder 6 Jandia Ipomoea purpurea Common Morning Glory Widely planted

Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family Aeonium arboreum - 3 La Zapata Aeonium canariense*** Canary Houseleek 3 La Zapata Aeonium ciliatum*** - 2 Chinamada Aeonium lindleyi*** 2 Chinamada Aeoneum pseudourbicum - 2 Chinamada Aeonium tabulaeforme*** Saucer Houseleek 2 Chinamada Aeonium urbicum** Giant Houseleek 2 Chinamada / roadsides Crassula muscosa (C. lycopodioides) Clubmoss Crassula 2 Chinamada Greenovia aurea** Golden Houseleek 3 El Bailadero Greenovia diplocycla ** - 3 El Bailadero Monanthes anagensis*** - 2 Chinamada Monanthes wildpretii*** 2 Chinamada

Cucurbitaceae White Bryony Family Bryonia verrucosa** - 2 Chinamada [Citrullus colocynthis] Desert Gourd 7 La Pared

The Canary Islands Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Day Location

Ericaceae Heather Family Arbutus canariensis** Canary Strawberry Tree 4 Road to Teide Erica arborea Tree Heather 2 Llanos de los Viejos Erica scoparia Besom Heath 3 El Riejo

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia balsamifera** Balsam Spurge 2 Las Chafiras Euphorbia canariensis** Canary Island Cactus-spurge 2 Las Chafiras Euphorbia handiensis*** - 6 Jandia Euphorbia (broussonetii) lamarckii** - 2 Las Chafiras Euphorbia regis-jubae** Common Canary Spurge 7 Mountain roadsides [Ricinus communis] Castor Oil Plant 4 Barranco del Ruiz

Fagaceae Beech Family Castanea sativa Sweet Chestnut 4 Roadsides N coast

Frankeniaceae Sea Heath Family Frankenia capitata a Sea Heath 2 Las Chafiras

Hypericaceae St.John's-wort Family Hypericum canariensis* Canary St.John's-wort 3 El Riejo Hypericum grandifolium* 2 Cruz del Carmen

Lamiaceae Dead-nettle Family Calamintha sylvatica Common Calamint 3 El Bailadero Lavandula buchii*** - 2 Chinamada Lavandula (multifida subsp.) canariensis** Canary Island Lavender 3 Old road stop Micromeria lepida*** (split fr varia) Gomeran Savory 3 Old road stop Micromeria varia** Common Canary Savory 1 Road to Vilaflor in flower Sideritis gomerae*** Gomera False Sage 3 Old road stop Sideritis lotsyi*** - 3 Old road stop

Leguminosae (Fabaceae) Pea Family Adenocarpus foliolosus** Sticky Broom 2 La Zapata Adenocarpus viscosus** Teide Sticky Broom 4 Teide caldera Bitumaria bituminosa Pitch Trefoil 2 Chinamada Chamaecytisus proliferus** Tagasaste 1 Road to Vilaflor Genista (Teline) canariensis** Canary Broom 2 Anaga Genista (Teline) stenopetala** - 3 El Bailadero Lotus lancerottensis** - 7 Vegas de Rio Palmas Ononis hesperia a Yellow Restharrow 7 Costa Calma Spartocytisus supranubius** Teide White Broom 4 Teide caldera Ulex europaeus Gorse 4 Road to Teno

Malvaceae Mallow Family Malva canariensis (Lavatera acerifolia)** Canary Tree Mallow 4 Teno

Moraceae Fig Family [Ficus carica] Common Fig 3 Scattered

Myricaceae Sweet Gale Family Myrica faya* Wax Myrtle 3 El Riejo

The Canary Islands Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Day Location

Nyctaginaceae Bougainvillea Family [Bougainvillea glabra] Bougainvillea 1 Widely planted

Oleaceae Olive Family Jasminum odoratissimum* a Jasmine 3 El Bailadero in flower

Orobanchaceae Broomrape Family Cistanche phelipaea Cistanche 6 Road to hotel

Oxalidaceae Wood Sorrel Family Oxalis pes-caprae Bermuda Buttercup 2 Chinamada

Papaveraceae Poppy Family Eschscholzia californicum Californian Poppy 1 Vilaflor

Pentaphylacaceae Pentaphylax Family Visnea mocanera Visnea 2 La Zapata

Plantaginaceae Plantain Family Plantago arborescens* Canarian Shrubby Plantain 2 Chinamada

Plumbaginaceae Thrift Family Limonium pectinatum* Dwarf Sea Lavender 1 Las Chafiras

Polygonaceae Dock Family Rumex lunaria** Canary Dock 3 Old road stop, but widespread

Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family Rhamnus glandulosa* - 2 Cruz de Carmen

Rosaceae Rose Family [Prunus dulcis] Almond 1 Road to Vilaflor Prunus lusitanica subsp. hixa* - 2 Cruz de Carmen Rubus ulmifolius - 2 Chinamada Sanguisorba megacarpa a Burnet 1 Road to Vilaflor

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family Phyllis nobla* Capitana 2 Llanos de los Viejos Plocama pendula** Balo 1 Las Chafiras Rubia fruticosa Madder 3 Old road stop

Rutaceae (incl Cneoraceae) Rue Family Neochamaelea pulverulenta** 4 Teno in flower

Solanaceae Nightshade Family Lycium intricatum - 4 Teno in flower Nicotiana glauca Shrub Tobacco 4 Scattered in dry areas Solanum hoehnei (S. alatum) A Black Nightshade 6 La Lajita

Tamaricaceae Tamarisk Family Tamarix canariensis Canary Tamarisk 5 Barranco de Rio Cabras

The Canary Islands Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Day Location

Thymelaceae Mezereon Family Daphne gnidium Mediterranean Daphne 4 Road to Teide

Urticaeae Nettle Family Forsskaolea angustifolia** Narrow-leaved Forskaolea 4 La Grimona Gesnouinia arborea** Tree Pellitory 3 El Riejo

Zygophyllaceae Caltrop Family Tetraena (Zygophyllum) fontanesii Canarian Bean-Caper 6 Costa Calma

Monocots Monocotyledons Amaryllidaceae Daffodil Family Pancratium canariense** Canary Sea Daffodil 4 North coast

Arecaceae Palm Family Phoenix canariensis** Canary Palm 1 Widespread [Phoenix dactylifera] Date Palm 1 Widespread

Asparagaceae Asparagus Family [Agave americana] Century Plant 1 Widespread Asphodelus aestivus Common Asphodel 2 Chinamada Asparagus pastorianus - 7 Castillo de Lara Dracaena draco Dragon Tree 2 Chinamada Scilla latifolia 4 Teno

Juncaceae Rush Family Juncus acutus Sharp Rush 7 Vegas de Rio Palmas

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Habenaria tridactylites** Canary Twayblade 2 Chinamada

Poaceae Grass Family Arundo donax Great Reed 7 Vegas de Rio Palmas Pennisetum setaceum Fountain Grass 1 Las Chafiras

Smilaxaceae Smilax Family Smilax canariensis** - 2 Cruz de Carmen

Xanthorrhoeaceae Aloe Family [Aloe vera] - Widespread

Fungi: Laurobasidium lauri Laurel Fungus 2 Llanos de los Viejos

Lichens: Lobaria pulmonaria Lungwort Lichen 3 El Bailadero