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The Canary Islands The Canary Islands Naturetrek Tour Report 9 - 16 November 2019 Caralluma burchardii by Jessica Turner Blue Chaffinch by Andrew Bray Spectacled Warbler by Andrew Bray Mount Teide by Jessica Turner Report by by Jessica Turner Images provide by Andrew Bray and Jessica Turner Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Canary Islands Tour participants: Jessica Turner and Andrew Bray (leaders) with 15 Naturetrek clients Summary Our late-autumn trip to the ‘Islands of eternal spring’ of Tenerife, La Gomera and Fuerteventura, did indeed bring sunshine but also, this year, strong trade winds, which made finding some species rather a challenge. We had superb views of Tenerife Blue Chaffinch, which were a regular in the hotel garden, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, and the Canarian subspecies of Spectacled Warbler which turned up as Andrew was demonstrating the calls to listen out for! Some of the plant life stretched those used to Northern European species and, while many species were not currently in flower, we enjoyed the displays of Canary Sea Daffodil and Canary Twayblade and marvelled over the strange-looking plants of Caralluma burchardii and Ceropegia fusca, with their maroon flowers coming from apparently dead stems. Shearwaters and whales, lizards and butterflies contributed to the supporting cast, with many island endemics, while delicious food and good company all helped to make this a very enjoyable week. Day 1 Saturday 9th November Fly to Tenerife South – La Chafiras – Road to Vilaflor Eight group members met with Jessica and Andrew at Gatwick’s North Terminal for our 6.50am flight to Tenerife South airport. Unfortunately, the flight was rather delayed in departing, but we landed at about 12.30, meeting up with the remaining group members who had flown from Manchester and East Midlands airports without hitch. We soon collected luggage and the minibuses and left the airport, driving the short distance west to Las Chafiras, where we enjoyed an excellent and welcome lunch at Casa Pedro. Refreshed and replete, we then drove on for just five minutes to a rather un-prepossessing water tank and area of waste ground. However, it provided a good start, a roosting Black-crowned Night Heron being the first find, with three Little Egrets and some Spanish Sparrows as well. Although sunny at times, the wind was extremely strong, so not very conducive for birds or birdwatchers! We added Mallard and Moorhen, and a European Pond Terrapin was swimming. The other side of the road allowed an introduction to the very different flora of the island, with Balsam Spurge (Euphorbia balsamifera), Canary Island Candle Plant (Kleinia neriifolia), with seed heads looking like tiny puffs of smoke, the Sea Heath Frankenia capitata with a few tiny pink flowers, Canary Samphire (Schizogyne sericea) with yellow flowers, the curious Ceropegia fusca, looking like dead grey stems but with maroon flower buds, Canary Island Cactus Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis), and the naturalised, prickly, Prickly Pear (Opuntia dellinii). Two Berthelot’s Pipits were well camouflaged against the sandy ground but were seen running, and two Painted Lady butterflies were being blown about. As it had been a very early start for most of the group, we decided to start to make our way up to the small town of Vilaflor, which is situated on the T-21 route to Mount Teide. En route we had a good view of a Kestrel (canariensis), and also saw Plain Swift, Barn Swallow, and a flock of Canaries. We stopped not far from Vilaflor to admire the tall Sonchus canariensis, not in flower, also seeing the broom Tagasaste (Chamaecytisus proliferus) and several other species. More Berthelot’s Pipits and more Canaries were among the birds. We arrived at the Hotel Spa Villalba in Vilaflor, our base for the first four nights, where we received a warm welcome and soon settled in to our rooms. With no wind, due to the sheltering effect of Mount Teide, some of the group were out © Naturetrek January 20 1 The Canary Islands Tour Report immediately in the grounds, seeing Canary Islands Chiffchaff, the Tenerife subspecies of African Blue Tit (teneriffae) and the Tenerife subspecies of Goldcrest (also known as Tenerife Kinglet), amongst other birds. After time to settle in, we met to discuss the day and future plans, before sitting down to an excellent meal. We soon retired to bed after a long, but interesting day. Day 2 Sunday 10th November Anaga Peninsula This morning some of the group met to explore the grounds of the hotel. Although it was initially slow, birds included two Great Spotted Woodpeckers (canariensis), African Blue Tit, Tenerife Goldcrest, Canary Islands Chiffchaff and Atlantic Canaries. Just before breakfast, a couple of female Blue Chaffinch were seen. After a delicious breakfast, and with picnic supplies on board, we headed off to the north-eastern end of the island, to the Anaga Peninsula. Leaving our hotel in beautiful sunshine, we retraced our route towards the coast and joined the motorway towards Santa Cruz, which we bypassed. As we cleared the shelter of Mount Teide, we found the wind was again strong. Some Azorean Yellow-legged Gulls were seen, and a surprise mammal sighting was a Kangaroo! Arriving on the peninsula, we first visited the recreation area of Llanos de los Viejos, in the Laurisilva woodland. Here we noted Azores Laurel (Laurus novocanariensis), some infected with Laurel Fungus (Laurobasidium lauri). We also noted Tree Heath (Erica arborea) and Broad-leaved Holly (Ilex perado subsp. platyphyllos), with a good crop of red berries, plus Canary Holly (Ilex canariensis). Two species of Sow-thistle, Anaga (Sonchus congestus) and S. leptocephalus were growing on a roof. A Bolle’s Pigeon was moving about in the tops of the trees, apparently collecting twigs, but was frequently hidden from view by the foliage. We had good views of the Canary Island subspecies of Common Chaffinch and could see the brighter plumage of the male. Canary Islands Chiffchaffs were flitting around, and Tenerife Goldcrest was seen well. We moved on, making our way down the steep roads towards the sea, noting the massive Chain Fern (Woodwardia radicans) cascading down the banks and seeing the beautiful orange-red flowers of Canary Bellflower (Canarina canariensis) by the road. We parked at Chinamada, where we admired a Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) that was much older than the house or garden surrounding it. It was windier here, but not too bad, and we set off along the track towards the headland, soon finding a lovely array of new plants. These included the white Bugloss Echium aculeatum, the fern Macaronesian Polypody (Polypodium macaronesicum), masses of spikes of the green-flowered orchid Canary Twayblade (Habenaria tridactylites), and Lavandula buchii, with some flowers. The Stonecrop family was well represented, with rosettes of Aeonium ciliatum, the small-leaved, almost shrub-like Aeonium lindleyi, and the tiny plants Monanthes anagensis which was slightly trailing with pinkish leaves, and tight rosettes of the tiny, extremely rare Monanthes wildpretii, which only grows at Chinamada. There was also Clubmoss Crassula (Crassula muscosa), looking like a clubmoss, as well as the true Mediterranean Clubmoss (Selaginella denticulata). Birds were generally ‘hunkered down’, but Spanish Sparrow, Berthelot’s Pipit, Canary Islands Chiffchaffs and Sardinian Warblers (leucogastra) were recorded. We ate our excellent picnic near the minibuses, in the shelter of the buildings, enjoying the local wines, bananas, cheeses and dried figs that were part of the spread. We then moved on to the Mirador at Cruz de Carmen, where we had the chance to use the facilities and have a quick coffee, as well as enjoying the extensive views. We 2 © Naturetrek January 20 The Canary Islands Tour Report looked again at the laurel, some of which had Hare’s-foot Fern (Davallia canariensis) growing as an epiphyte. A number of Canary Islands Chiffchaffs were calling and feeding in the vegetation. Next, we drove to the much quieter viewpoint of La Zapata. Here, while looking, unfortunately unsuccessfully, for Laurel Pigeons, we also noted the tall-stemmed Sonchus acaulis (the leaf-rosette of which is stemless), and the short-stemmed Anaga Sow-thistle (Sonchus congestus). There were also rosettes of the Giant Houseleek (Aeonium urbicum), also with woody stalks. Distant trees with white flowers were Visnea mocanera. We then returned to Llano de los Viejos, which was rather busy. However, we managed to have good view of Canary Islands Goldcrest (also known as Tenerife Kinglet), plus the Canary Island subspecies of Robin. It was then time to set off on our lengthy journey back to the hotel, seeing Plain Swifts, a few Swallows and a nice Kestrel (canariensis) en route. We had a break before meeting to update our lists and enjoy another delicious meal, and soon retired after a full and satisfying day. Day 3 Monday 11th November La Gomera An early start today saw us on the road at 6.45am, en route with a beautiful sunrise, down to the port at Los Christianos, for the ferry to San Sebastian on the adjacent island of La Gomera. On our arrival at the harbour, Jessica went off to book our tickets, while Andrew organised breakfast. From the café we could see Yellow- legged Gulls. Once on board the ferry, we made our way to the upper deck to sea watch during the one-hour crossing. As we set off, we noted large numbers of crabs, probably a Tidal Spray species, on the concrete blocks of the harbour wall. The sea was relatively calm at first, and we had brief views of a couple of Short-finned Pilot Whales, with some also seeing a Bottlenose Dolphin.
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