The Canary Islands Naturetrek Tour Report 23 February – 2 March 2019 Canary Bellflower by Jessica Turner Mount Teide by Andrew Bray Euphorbia atropururea by Jessica Turner Barbary Partridge by Andrew Bray Report and images by Jessica Turner and Andrew Bray Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Canary Islands Tour participants: Andrew Bray and Jessica Turner (leaders) together with 16 Naturetrek clients Summary The Canary Islands may be well-known as a general tourist destination, but they contain a wealth of natural treasures, and we were fortunate to experience many of them. Their isolation has given rise to many endemic species and subspecies, of which the great views of Tenerife Blue Chaffinch in perfect light were a highlight for many. We marvelled over the flora, so different to that of mainland Europe, and enjoyed the various species of lizards, plus the butterflies and other invertebrates we encountered. The day on La Gomera was a delight, not least for the numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters, whales and dolphins, plus the White-faced Storm Petrels we encountered. Lovely weather with plenty of sunshine, comfortable accommodation, good food and great company all made for an excellent week. Day 1 Saturday 23rd February Fly to Tenerife South – La Chafiras – Road to Vilaflor Fifteen tour group members met with Andrew and Jessica at Gatwick’s North Terminal for the 6.50am Easyjet flight to Tenerife South Airport. After a bit of a delay due to fog at Gatwick, we landed on the island at around 12.15pm, meeting up with our last group member, who had arrived on the island the previous day. We collected our vehicles and made our way to the nearby restaurant Casa Pedro, in Las Chafiras, where we enjoyed a good lunch. Afterwards, we drove a short distance to a small concrete tank, with water, parking on the edge of an area of waste ground. Two Spoonbills were on the far bank, with a Little Egret behind. As well as a Muscovy Duck and a couple of domestic – Mallard hybrids (described by Andrew as ‘dodgy’!), there were singles of both Coot and Moorhen. A Grey Wagtail of the local subspecies (canariensis) was feeding on the far bank, and a small wader was seen to be a Common Sandpiper. A number of European Pond Terrapins showed at least their heads, and an Emperor dragonfly was hawking. Common Kestrel (canariensis) was also recorded. Meanwhile, across the road, we started to explore the Canary Island flora, with its many unfamiliar species. Plants found included the Sea Heath Frankenia capitata, with tiny pink flowers, Canary Samphire (Schizogyne sericea) with yellow flowers, the curious Ceropegia fusca, looking like dead grey stems, but with maroon flower buds, Canary Island Cactus Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis), Balsam Spurge (Euphorbia balsamifera), and the naturalised prickly Prickly Pear (Opuntia dellinii). As it had been a very early start for most of the group, we decided to start to make our way up to the small town of Vilaflor, which is situated on the T-21 route to Mount Teide. En route Common Buzzard (insularum), more Kestrels, and Small White butterflies were noted, together with Almond trees (Prunus dulcis) in blossom. We also stopped not far from Vilaflor to admire the tall Sonchus canariensis, also seeing Berthelot’s Pipit, the white- flowered broom Tagasaste (Chamaecytisus proliferus), the pretty red-fruited dock Rumex vesicarius and several other species. A female Canary Blue butterfly flitted round briefly, showing the sandy brown on her upper wings. We soon arrived at the Hotel Spa Villalba, our base for the next four nights. Canary Red Admirals were nectaring on an Echium in the garden and Blue Chaffinches were heard and seen by some, as well as the Tenerife subspecies of African Blue Tit (teneriffae), Atlantic Canary and the Island subspecies of Great Spotted Woodpecker (canariensis). © Naturetrek March 19 1 The Canary Islands Tour Report After time to settle in, and for some to enjoy the hotel’s spa facilities, we met to discuss the day and future plans, before sitting down to an excellent meal. We soon retired to bed after a long, but interesting day. Day 2 Sunday 24th February Anaga Peninsula This morning we met to explore the grounds of the hotel. We had good views of Blue Chaffinch, especially a couple of females by some water, but also a male, plus Great Spotted Woodpecker and African Blue Tit. After a delicious breakfast, and with picnic supplies on board, we headed off to the north-eastern end of the island, to the Anaga Peninsula. Leaving our hotel in beautiful sunshine, we retraced our route towards the coast and joined the motorway towards Santa Cruz, which we bypassed. Arriving on the peninsula, we first visited the recreation area of Llanos de los Viejos, in the Laurisilva woodland. Here we noted Azores Laurel (Laurus novocanariensis), some infected with the Laurel Fungus Laurobasidium lauri. We also noted Tree Heath (Erica arborea) and Broad-leaved Holly (Ilex perado subsp. platyphyllos), plus what looked more like Canary Holly (Ilex canariensis). Two of the Tenerife subspecies of European Robin (superbus) showed well, and Canary Speckled Wood and Painted Lady butterflies were enjoying the sun. We soon moved on to the Mirador at Cruz de Carmen, where we had the chance to use the facilities and have a quick coffee, as well as enjoying the extensive, though slightly hazy, views. We looked again at the laurel, some of which had Hare’s-foot Fern growing as an epiphyte, and noted the yellow Genista canariensis. A number of Canary Islands Chiffchaffs were calling and feeding in the vegetation. We then made our way down the steep roads towards the sea, noting the massive Chain Fern (Woodwardia radicans) cascading down the banks. We parked at Chinamada, where we admired a Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) that was much older than the house or garden surrounding it. We set off along the track towards the headland, soon finding an amazing array of new plants. These included the white Bugloss Echium aculeatum, and the blue- and-pink Echium virescens, the pink ‘daisy’ Pericallis tussilaginis, the fern Macronesian Polypody (Polypodium macaronesicum), a small specimen of the yellow Genista canariensis, Rosy Garlic (Allium roseum), some of which was white, and spikes of Canary Twayblade (Habbenaria tridactylites), which were, sadly, all over. The Stonecrop family was well represented, with Canary Houseleek (Aeonium canariensis), Aichryson parlatorei, with very small leaves and some of which had bright yellow flowers, Monanthes anagensis which was slightly trailing, some having pinkish flowers, and tight rosettes of Monanthes brachycaulon (also with a few pinkish flowers), Monanthes minima and the extremely rare Monanthes wildpretii, which only grows at Chinamada. There was also Clubmoss Crassula (Crassula muscoides), looking like a clubmoss, as well as the true Mediterranean Clubmoss (Selaginella denticulata). The banks were starred with the Canary Sand Crocus (Romulea columnae subsp. grandiscapa) and we found a spike of Scilla haemorrhoidalis. Canary Islands Chiffchaffs and Sardinian Warblers (leucogastra) were flitting around, while at the headland, we had great views of a very obliging Barbary Falcon. Some also had good views of Spectacled Warbler. We ate our excellent picnic near the minibuses, trying to find some shade, before we made our way back up towards the ridge, seeing the beautiful orange-red flowers of Canary Bellflower (Canarina canariensis) by the road. After another brief stop at Cruz de Carmen, we drove to the much quieter viewpoint of La Zapata. Here, while looking for Laurel Pigeons, we also noted the tall-stemmed Sonchus acaulis (the leaf-rosette of which is stemless), and the short-stemmed Anaga Sow-thistle (Sonchus congestus). There were also rosettes of the Giant Houseleek 2 © Naturetrek March 19 The Canary Islands Tour Report (Aeonium urbicum), also with woody stalks. We then returned to Llano de los Viejos, which was still very busy with a noisy party going on. However, we managed to have good view of Canary Islands Goldcrest (also known as Tenerife Kinglet), plus some brief views of Laurel Pigeons. Plants included Mule’s Fern (Asplenium hemionitis). It was then time to set off on our lengthy journey back to the hotel, where we had a break, another delicious meal, and soon retired after a full and satisfying day. Day 3 Monday 25th February La Gomera An early start today saw us on the road at 6.45am, en route in the early dawn, down to the port at Los Christianos, for the ferry to San Sebastian on the adjacent island of La Gomera. On our arrival at the harbour, Andrew went off to book our tickets, while Jessica organised breakfast. From the café we could see Yellow- legged and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, a small flock of Ruddy Turnstone, and a Sandwich Tern. Once on board the ferry, we made our way to the upper deck to sea watch during the one-hour crossing. The sea was mirror calm and, almost immediately, we saw our first fins: three Bottlenose Dolphins, quite far out. As we set off, we noted large numbers of crabs, probably a Tidal Spray species, on the concrete blocks of the harbour wall. Then we started seeing Cory’s Shearwaters (borealis), some distant and others closer at hand. More fins were a pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales. The conditions were ideal, and we had amazing views throughout the crossing of plenty of Bottlenose Dolphins, Short-finned Pilot Whales, some groups of which were ‘logging’ on the surface, and a school of Common Dolphins which at one point were alongside and almost under the boat, plus some individual or smaller pods elsewhere.