LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS CORNELL UNIVERSITY ITHACA, NEW YORK Cornell University Library The original of tliis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924014508513 FILIAE DILECTISSIMAE D M C W ENGLISH COOKERY BOOKS TO THE YEAR 1850 BY ARNOLD WHITAKER OXFORD, M.A., M.D. HENRY FROWDE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS LONDON, EDINBURGH, NEW YORK, TORONTO, MELBOURNE AND BOMBAY 1913 OXFORD : HORACE HART PRINTER TO THE UNIVERaTV CONTENTS BIBLIOGRAPHY 1864. Host and Guest, by A. V. Kirwan. 1874. Publishers' Weekly (New York), vol. vi, 388, 421. Two lists by H. W. Hageman. 1875. -^ Book about the Table, by John Cordy Jeaffreson, vol. 2, chap. 17. 1890. Bibliographie Gastronomique, by Georges Vicaire. 1893. 01<i Cookery Books, by W. Carew Hazlitt. Second edition. 1895. National Review, vol. 24, 676 ; 25, 776. Two papers by Col. A. Kenney Herbert. 1902. The Pleasures of the Table, by George H. Ellwanger. 1903. My Cookery Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell. 1908. A Book of Simples, by H. W. Lewer. 1909. Notes from a Collector's Catalogue with a bibliography of English cookery books, by A. W. Oxford. PREFATORY NOTE ^ In a book called ' Notes from a Collector's Catalogue' I gave a list of English cookery books to the year 1700, with the name of the library in which each could be found and a collation of the various editions. The present Ust contains the title-pages of English books on cookery and domestic economy to the year 1850. I may repeat what was said in the former book, that my real interest is not in cookery but in the combination of cookery with medicine, which is found in most of the early books, and which, continuing through the first quarter of the nineteenth century, was gradually destroyed by the growth of railways. John and Edward Bumpus, 1909. ENGLISH COOKERY BOOKS 1500 THIS IS THE BOKE OF COKERY Here beginneth a noble boke of festes royalle and Cokery a boke for a pryncis housholde or any other estates ; and the makynge therof as ye shall fjmde more playnly within this boke. Emprynted without temple barre by Richard Pynson in the yere of our lorde. MD. This title is given in Ames and Herbert,' where it is stated that the Dowager Duchess of Portland brought the book from Bulstrode to London for Herbert to examine. A book called ' A noble booke of feastes royall, and of Cookerie, for Princes housholde, or any other estate, and the making thereof ', is given by Maunsell ' as having been printed by John Byddell. This is doubtless the same book, and the date would be between 1533 and 1540. 1508 HERE BEGYNNETH THE BOKE OF KER- VYNGE. This book is in the Cambridge Library. The colophon is ' Here endeth the boke of servyce and kervynge and sewynge and all maner of offyce in his kynde unto a prynce or ony other estate and all the feestes in the yere. Emprynted by Wynkyn de Worde at London in the Fletestrete at the sygne of the sonne. The yere of our lorde, M,CCCCC,VIII.' The British Museum has a copy with the colophon, ' Here endeth the boke of servyce and kervynge and sewynge and all maner of offyce in his kynde unto a prynce or ony other estate and all the feestes in the yere. Emprynted by Wynkyn de Worde at London in Flete strete at the sygne of the sonne. The yere of our lorde god, MCCCCCXIIL' Each of the above copies is a small quarto ; A with 6 leaves, B with 6. The book was reprinted by Abraham Veale (i.e. ' Typographical Antiquities (1812 edition), ii. 420. ' The first part of the Catalogue of EngUsh printed Bookes (1595). B ; 2 ENGLISH COOKERY BOOKS between 1558 and 1586) as ' the bookk of carvyng ', and twice by E. Allde as ' the booke of carving and sewing ', the first edition 12° being without a date, the second dated 161 3. These are each the former A to C in eights, the latter two A to Q in eights. The book was added in 1597 to ' The second part of the Good ' bookes of Hus-wifes Jewell ', and in 1631 to John Murrell's Two cookerie and carving '. The book was edited for the Early English Text Society in 1868 by F. W. Furnivall. It begins vi^ith a list of terms which are to be used by the carver, e:g. Lyft that swanne, unlace that cony, dysplaye that crane, dysfygure that pecocke, untache that curlew, alaye that fesande, wynge that patryche, mynce that plover, and so on. Later on the duties of the butler are laid down and a list of his wines given, viz. Reed wyne, whyte wyne, clared wyne, osey, capricke, campolet, renysche wyne, malvesey, bastarde, tyet, romney, mus- cadell, clarrey, raspys, vernage wyne, cut, pymente, and ypocras. The chamberlain's duties are strange. ' The chaumberlayne must be dylygent & clenly in his offyce with his heed kembed & so to his soverayne that he be not reckeles & se that he have a clene sherte breche petycote and doublet. And at morne whan your soverayne wyll aryse warme his shert by the fyre.' After directions as to dressing and washing his sovereign, the chamberlain is ordered to ' take your leve manerly & go to the chyrche or chapell to your soveraynes closet & laye carpentes & cuysshens & lay downe his boke of prayers '. He is then to return and make the bed, ' & bete the federbedde & the bolster, but loke ye waste no feders.' After this ' se the hous of hesement be swete & clene & the prevy horde covered with a grene clothe and a cuysshyn '. Later on, after putting the sovereign to bed, ' dryve out dogge or catte & loke there be basyn and urynall set nere your soverayne, then take your leve manerly that your soverayne may take his rest meryly.' The book ends with the duties of the marshal and the usher who have to order the precedence of guests. IS39 THE TREASURE OF POORE MEN. This little book of 44 leaves contains recipes for aqua vitae and claret, but is mainly medical. 1539 THE CASTEL OF HELTHE, gathered, and made by Sir Thomas Elyot knight, out of the chief authors of Phisyke, whereby every man may knowe the state of his owne body, the preservation of helthe, and ENGLISH COOKERY BOOKS 3 how to instruct well his phisition in siclines, that he be not deceyved. MD XXXIX. This is not a cookery book, but contains advice as to the uses and physical effects of different articles of diet. According to the D. N. B. the author incurred the wrath of the physicians for encroaching on their domain. 1545 A PROPER NEWE BOOKE OF COKERYE, declarynge what maner of meates be beste in season, for al times in the yere, and how they ought to be dressed, and served at the table, both for fleshe dayes, and fyshe dayes. With a newe addition, verye necessarye for all them that delyghteth in Cokerye. The earliest known edition, which bears no date, is in the library of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. It was printed by ' John Kynge and Thomas Marche '. It is a small book of i6 leaves ; A to B in eights, Bg blank. A reprint has recently been edited by Miss C. F. Frere. Ames and Herbert (iii. 256) give an edition of 1545, printed with Richard Lant, and Hazlitt gives one of 1546, printed by Richard Lant and Richard Bankes. The British Museum has editions of 1575 (printed by William How for Abraham Veale) and of 1376 (printed for Antony Kytson). Maunsell gives 'a little olde booke of cookerie', piinted by Antony Kytson, and Ames and Herbert (iii. 571) give 'a newe boke of cokery ', printed by Thomas Raynald. Perhaps these are editions of the same book, but the latter would be an early edition between 1540 and 1550. Some of the recipes are strange—A tart of Bourage Flowers, A pye of aloes (not so alarming as it seems from the title), A tart of Marygoldes, Primroses, or Cowslips, A tart of Spinage, To make egges in mone shine. 1558 THE SECRETES OF THE REVERENDE MAISTER ALEXIS OF PIEMONT. Containyng excellente remedies against divers diseases, woundes, and other accidents, with the manner to make distilations, parfumes, confitures, diynges, colours, fusions and raeltynges. A worke well approved, verye profytable B 2 :: 4 ENGLISH COOKERY BOOKS and necessary for every man. Translated out of French into English, by WyUyam Warde. Imprynted at London by John Kingstone for Nicolas Inglande, dwellinge in Poules Churchyarde. Anno 1558. Menss. Novemb. This contains recipes for making ipocras, confitures, &c. 1562 Here foloweth A COMPEDYOUS REGYMENT OR A DYETARY OF HELTH, made in Mofitpylior compiled by Andrewe Boorde, of Physicke Doctor. The earliest edition has no date, the next is dated 1562. This book, like Elyot's Castle of Health, is not a cookery book, but gives advice as to the use of food. The author was a man of most varied experiences, not always reputable though he had once been a bishop. 1 573 THE TREASURIE OF COMMODIOUS CON- CEITES, AND HIDDEN SECRETS. Commonly called The Good Huswives Closet of provision for the health of her houshold. Meete and necessarie for the profitable use of all estates, gathered out of sundry Experiments lately practised by men of great knowledge. The earliest known copy has lost its title-page, but the colophon is, ' These Bookes are to be sould at the West ende of Paules Church By Richard Jones, the Printer hereof, 1573.' It is a small 12° book.