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Yarn and Braid Property Comparisons

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Yarn and Braid Property Comparisons ABSTRACT BICKING, AMANDA MARGARET. Explorations in Fancy Braid Creation Through the Use of Industrial Machinery. (Under the direction of Dr. William Oxenham). The goal of the study was to identify how various yarns, their corresponding spool placement, and interlacements affected the structural and mechanical properties, appearance, shape, and performance of a tubular braid. By replacing one certain element or variable of the braid structure with a differing variable, (i.e. color, fiber, spool placement, or interlacement structure), a discrepancy is created, much like that of a fancy yarn. Though there are many braiding apparatuses available for braid production, the Cobra 450 Maypole braider was chosen to fabricate the experimental products due to its ease of operation, manipulation, and spool replacement. A standard twenty-four spool Maypole braider, the Cobra 450 produced hollow braids that allowed the structure to be utilized with or without a core; the machine was also capable of fabricating flat braids through the depression of the tubular structure and stitching the braid flatly in place. In addition, a Herzog winder was used to prepare spools for the braiding machine and a tensile tester was used in further studies to test properties of the braids produced. Preliminary work was designed to concurrently procure an assortment of braid samples and provide self-training on the braiding apparatus. By producing a series of braids, an improved comprehension of machine settings, material choice, and placement of yarns was achieved, while simultaneously fabricating a heightened design aesthetic in producing visual effects. Experimental studies within the preliminary work included color pattern development and structural effects, whereas quantitative-based experimental work reviewed the tensile effects of different interlacement structures and varying material selection. An analysis of all experimental findings is presented within the following research. Explorations in Fancy Braid Creation Through the Use of Industrial Machinery by Amanda Margaret Bicking A thesis submitted to the Graduate Faculty of North Carolina State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science Textiles Raleigh, North Carolina 2011 APPROVED BY: _______________________________ ______________________________ Dr. William Oxenham Dr. Abdel-Fattah Seyam Committee Chair ________________________________ Professor Nancy Powell DEDICATION This research is dedicated to my loving husband Charles who was willing to sacrifice our time together to let me pursue my dreams. Without your love, support, and wisdom, I could have never made it through these past two years apart. I also dedicate this research to my wonderful parents who always taught me to give all I could and strive for the best. Your encouragement and support throughout all of the years shaped me into the person I am today. ii BIOGRAPHY Amanda Bicking was born in Houston, Texas on October 15, 1985. She was raised in Tiffin, OH and graduated from Calvert High School in 2004. She entered the University of Cincinnati and received a Bachelor of Science degree with a major in Fashion Design in June 2009. In August 2009, the author entered graduate school at the North Carolina State University’s College of Textiles to pursue a Master of Science degree in Textile Technology. Upon graduation, the author will be working for Procter & Gamble as a Design Manager on the Pampers Innovation Team. iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to thank my committee chair, Dr. William Oxenham for all of his guidance, patience, support, and encouragement in this project. Additionally, I would like to thank my two other committee members, Professor Nancy Powell and Dr. Abdel-fattah Seyam for their guidance and knowledge. A huge thank you is reserved my mother and father-in-law, as well as my parents. You all encouraged, supported, and helped Charles and me as we went through this challenge together. Everything you have done for us means more than we could ever express. Finally, I would like to thank Professor Jacqueline Burris who inspired me to continue my education and has provided so much support and motivation these past few years. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................................viii LIST OF FIGURES ....................................................................................................................... ix CHAPTER I : 1. INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................... 1 1.1 Objectives ........................................................................................................................ 1 CHAPTER II: 2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE .................................................................. 3 2.1 Braiding............................................................................................................................ 3 2.2 Terminology ..................................................................................................................... 4 2.3 History of Braiding .......................................................................................................... 5 2.3.1 Hand Braiding .......................................................................................................... 5 2.3.2 Industrial Braiding .................................................................................................... 7 2.4 Braiding Geometry........................................................................................................... 9 2.5 Types of Braid................................................................................................................ 12 2.5.1 Tubular Braid ......................................................................................................... 12 2.5.2 Square Braids ......................................................................................................... 15 2.5.3 Flat Braids .............................................................................................................. 15 2.5.4 Soutache Braids ...................................................................................................... 17 2.5.5 Fancy Braids ........................................................................................................... 17 2.5.6 3-D Braiding .......................................................................................................... 17 2.5.7 Hand Braiding ........................................................................................................ 19 2.6 Industrial Machinery ...................................................................................................... 22 2.6.1 Maypole Braiders ................................................................................................... 22 2.6.2 Square Braiders ...................................................................................................... 25 2.6.3 Flat Braiders ........................................................................................................... 25 2.6.4 Soutache Braiders ................................................................................................... 27 2.6.5 Three-Dimensional Braiders .................................................................................. 27 2.7 Market for Braiding ....................................................................................................... 30 2.8 Machine Manufacturers ................................................................................................ 32 2.8.1 Herzog .................................................................................................................... 33 2.8.2 Steeger USA ........................................................................................................... 34 2.8.3 ETK-Lesmo ............................................................................................................ 34 2.8.4 Hsiang Chuan ......................................................................................................... 35 v 2.8.5 O.M.A. .................................................................................................................... 35 2.8.6 Ratera...................................................................................................................... 36 2.8.7 Trenz-Export .......................................................................................................... 36 2.8.8 Additional companies ............................................................................................. 36 2.9 Alternatives to Braiding ................................................................................................. 37 CHAPTER III: 3. APPROACH FOLLOWED .................................................................. 38 3.1 Description of Experimental Machinery ........................................................................ 38 3.1.1 Cobra 450 Braider .................................................................................................. 39 3.1.2 Herzog Winder ....................................................................................................... 42 3.1.3 Tensile Tester ......................................................................................................... 42 3.2 Methodology .................................................................................................................
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