CONTROVERSIES IN PERIOPERATIVE MEDICINE

SOUTHERN PORTUGAL MAY 14 -20, 201 7 CONTENTS

Medical Program ...... 3 Sunday, May 14 ...... 8 Monday, May 15 ...... 15 Tuesday, May 16 ...... 18 Wednesday, May 17 ...... 22 Thursday, May 18 ...... 24 Friday, May 19 ...... 26 Saturday, May 20 ...... 28 A Brief History of Portugal ...... 29 Port Wine ...... 39 Portuguese Cuisine ...... 43 Portuguese Language ...... 46 Weather and Clothing...... 49 Practical information ...... 50 Hotel and Staff Contact Information ...... 51 Participants List ...... 52 Notes ...... 54

Medical Program

FACULTY

Dr. Jan-Hinrich Baumert, MD, PhD, DEAA, Senior Physician, Department of Anesthesiology, Intensive Care Medicine and Pain Management, Academic Teaching Hospital Nordstadt, Hannover/Germany, Assistant Professor of Anesthesiology and Intensive Care, Hannover Medical School (MHH), Hannover/Germany.

Dr. Hance Clarke MD PhD FRCPC Director of Pain Services / Transitional Pain Program, Medical Director Pain Research Unit, Department of Anesthesia and Pain Management, Toronto General Hospital, Assistant Professor, University of Toronto.

Dr. Kathleen Leavitt MD Assistant Professor, Dept Anesthesiology, Director Obstetric Anesthesia, St. Luke's Hospital, University of Missouri, Kansas City (UMKC).

Dr. Jerrold Lerman, MD, FRCPC, FANZCA, Clinical Professor of Anesthesia, Women & Children's Hospital of Buffalo, SUNY at Buffalo, New York.

Dr. Patricia Murphy MD, FRCPC. Medical Director Cardiovascular ICU, Director Cardiac Operating Rooms, Toronto General Hospital, Associate Professor, University of Toronto.

Dr. Grace Shih, MD Professor, Dept Anesthesiology, University of Kansas Medical Center, Kansas City, Kansas.

Dr. Michael Sullivan MD FRCPC, Dept of Anesthesia, Southlake Regional Health Centre, Newmarket Ontario. Past-Chair, Specialty Committee in Anesthesiology, Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Canada; Critical Care Lead, Central Local Health Integration Network; Councilor, Canadian Medical Protective Association.

Dr. Johan Suyderhoud MD. Professor and Chairman, Saint Luke's Hospital/University of Missouri-Kansas City School of Medicine, Kansas City, MO.

Dr. Jordan Tarshis, MD, FRCPC, Director Simulation Centre, Sunnybrook Health Sciences Centre, Associate Professor, Department of Anesthesiology, University of Toronto.

3

PROGRAM DIRECTORS

Dr. Mark Friedlander, MBChB, FRCPC, Assistant Professor, Department of Anesthesiology, University of Toronto, Consultant Anesthesiologist, North York General Hospital, Toronto, Ontario.

Dr. Charles Knapp, MD, FRCPC, Assistant Professor, Department of Anesthesiology, University of Toronto, Consultant Anesthesiologist, North York General Hospital, Toronto, Ontario.

4

Monday, May 15

8:00 – 8:35 am Dr. Jerrold Lerman – Laughing gas, no laughing matter.

8:35 – 9:10 am Dr. Hance Clarke – Identifying high risk patients for the development of chronic post-surgical pain and persistent opioid use: the need for transitional pain service. 9:10-9:20 am Break.

9:20 – 9:55 am Dr. Johan Suyderhoud – Integrated pain management.

9:55 – 10:30 am Dr. Jordan Tarshis – Harm reduction in perioperative medicine – Part 1.

10:30 – 10:50 am Questions and Panel Discussion.

Tuesday, May 16

8:00 – 8:35 am Dr. Kathleen Leavitt/ Dr. Grace Shih – Medical controversies in the delivery suite: tough cases.

8:35 – 9:10 am Dr. Jan-Hinrich Baumert – Dad isn’t the same after his operation. What happened?

9:10-9:20 am Break.

9:20 – 9:55 am Dr. Jerrold Lerman – What is a mitochondrial myopathy?

9:55 – 10:30 am Dr. Patricia Murphy – Challenges at altitude and lessons from hypoxia.

10:30 – 10:50 am Questions and Panel Discussion.

5

Wednesday, May 17

8:00 – 8:35 am Dr. Patricia Murphy – Difficult decisions in pre-op preparation.

8:35 – 9:10 am Dr. Mike Sullivan – Patient safety – A CMPA perspective.

9:10-9:20 am Break.

9:20 – 9:55 am Dr. Jan-Hinrich Baumert/ Dr. Mike Sullivan/ Dr. Jordan Tarshis – Panel Discussion: Should I cancel this case?

9:55 – 10:15 am Questions and Panel Discussion.

Thursday, May 18

8:00 – 8:35 am Dr. Hance Clarke – Pain and the opioid crisis: Optimizing opioid practices within pain management and risk prevention.

8:35 – 9:10 am Dr. Jerrold Lerman – Allergies of latex, antibiotics and foods.

9:10-9:20 am Break.

9:20 – 9:55 am Dr. Jan-Hinrich Baumert – Neurovascular interventions.

9:55 – 10:15 am Questions and Panel Discussion.

6

Friday, May 19

8:00 – 8:35 am Dr. Mike Sullivan – Competence by Design – Concepts and implications for continuing professional development.

8:35 – 9:10 am Dr. Johan Suyderhoud – Cost Control: The CJR Project.

9:10-9:20 am Break.

9:20 – 9:55 am Dr. Jordan Tarshis – Harm reduction in perioperative medicine – Part 2.

9:55 – 10:15 am Questions and Panel Discussion.

7

Sunday, May 14

∑ 1:30 p.m. Meeting in at The Intercontinental Hotel. Those not meeting there will arrive on their own to the hotel in Evora. If you can be at the meeting point slightly earlier, that would be great. We will load your luggage onto our own vans and perhaps one bus can even get off early. 1 ½ hour drive to Evora.

∑ Check-in to our hotel, Convento do Espinheiro. Some time to explore. Anyone who would like to have their bike adjusted this afternoon can do so. Ideally, it would only be those who will be in the conference tomorrow morning. For non-conference people, we will adjust tomorrow morning while others are in conference.

∑ 7:00 p.m. This evening we start with welcome cocktails in the garden followed by dinner. Dress casual.

∑ Overnight: Convento do Espinheiro, Evora.

∑ TODAY’S SIGHTS

LISBON

Situated on the north bank of the (Tejo) Tagus River, Lisbon has a population of about 540,000. The city is a superb mix of old and the new, spreading across hills and running down to the Tejo Estuary. Its districts are linked by steep cobbled streets, traversed by clanking trams and funicular railways, and lined with traditional shops and cafés.

History

Legend has it that Lisbon was founded by Ulysses, one of the Greek heroes of the Trojan Wars, but it was the Phoenicians who probably were the first to settle there around 1200 BC. Greeks and Carthaginians followed, before the arrival of the Romans in 205 BC. Their prosperous city of Olisipo was founded around 60 BC by Julius Caesar.

The Romans were forced out by the Visigoths, and barbarian rule lasted until the area was captured by the Moors early in the 8 th century AD. They renamed the city Lishbuna. It and its rich hinterland prospered thanks to the trade links that were established with the Arab world. The Moors held the city for some four centuries until their expulsion and the establishment of the Portuguese monarchy in 1147. It became the capital in 1255, when Afonso III moved here from .

8

Two centuries later, the city boomed as the departure point for the voyages of the Great Age of Discoveries, when mariners such as Vasco da Gama opened up new trade routes to the east and the Americas. The city’s population grew as well, from an estimated 65,000 in 1527 to around 165,000 in 1620. Wealth from overseas paid for the construction of some of the city’s grandest and most historic monuments, notably at Belém, where Portugal’s finest examples of the home-grown architectural style are found. Building continued in the early 18 th century, funded by the gold and diamonds pouring in from Brazil.

Since the 1980s, Lisbon has undergone a massive regeneration, the most obvious beneficiaries being the Parque dos Naçôes, created to house Expo ’98, and the Estádio da Luz (Stadium of Light), which was revamped for the 2004 European Football Championship. This raised Lisbon’s profile still further and helped to attract increasing numbers of international visitors.

Torre de Belém (1515-1521)

Commissioned by King Manuel I, the Belém Tower, is one of Portugal’s most potent national symbols, originally standing well out into the river, it is a fortress designed to safeguard the western approaches to Lisbon’s harbor. The great earthquake of 1755 substantially altered the course of the River Tejo, and the Torre today stands on the water’s edge, though still surrounded on three sides by the sea.

It was designed by Francisco de Arruda, who had previously worked on Portuguese buildings in Morocco. The Moorish influence is evident in much of the architectural detail and is seen at its best in the turrets with their rounded domes. The combination of these elements with Gothic, Venetian and Byzantine touches makes it unique. It is also the only complete example of the Manueline style to survive in Portugal, the others being remodeled earlier buildings or completed at a later date.

The exterior is decorated with nautical rope carvings in stone and battlements are decorated with the cross of the Order of Christ. A statue of Our Lady of Safe Homecoming faces the sea, which is a symbol of protection for sailors.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

The Jerónimos Monastery is both the triumphant symbol of Portugal’s great seafaring age and Lisbon’s finest monument. It was built on the site of an earlier church founded by Henry the Navigator, where Vasco da Gama spent his last night on shore before setting out on his voyage east. Dom Manuel I vowed to erect a larger church if the voyage was successful, though it took until 1551 before the entire complex was more or less complete. The main architects were

9

Diogo de Boitaca, pioneer of the Manueline style, and Joâo de Castilho, a Spaniard. The west door, by Nicolau Chanterène, shows Manuel and his second wife, their patron saints, the four evangelists and the apostles.

Lisbon Cathedral (1147)

The Sé de Lisboa, also known as Santa Major de Lisboa, was commissioned by Afonso I and is one of the oldest buildings in Lisbon. It was built on the site of a former mosque. This Romanesque structure resembles a fortress more than a religious center, with its castellated walls and arrow slits in the towers. Shortly after the cathedral was founded, the remains of the 3 rd -century Saint Vincent of Saragossa, patron saint of Lisbon, were returned and placed in the cathedral.

The plain façade of the cathedral is punctuated by a great rose window positioned over the main entrance. There are some Gothic influences to be seen in sections added in the 13 th century. The most notable example of the latter is the cloister and choir. The interior is fairly somber and austere, although this is partly attributed to the damage caused by the great earthquake of 1755. The exception is the main chapel which was rebuilt after the earthquake in a more colorful neoclassical and Rococo style featuring colored marble.

The renovation work continued into the 20th century with the rose window being rebuilt from original fragments in the 1930s. During this period of restoration, many of the neoclassical features, both inside and out, were removed to give the cathedral a more authentic mediaeval look.

Museu Colecçâo Berardo

Established in 2007, the museum is situated in the heart of the Belém district and displays José Berardo’s impressive collection of modern and contemporary art. The gallery features more than 800 pieces from artists recognized worldwide, including Lichtenstein, Pablo Picasso, Marcel Duchamp, Andy Warhol and Jackson Pollock, among others.

Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation

The museum is part of the Fundaçâo Calouste Gulbenkian, a cultural foundation that funds the art collections, the Centro Arte Moderna, an orchestra, a choir and a ballet company, and runs three concert halls and two exhibition galleries in Lisbon. The foundation is active throughout Portugal, funding museums and libraries and giving charitable grants to a huge range of projects.

10

This is all possible thanks to Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian oil magnate and patron of the arts born in Istanbul in 1869 and nicknamed “Mister 5%” on account of his five per cent share in the profits of the Iraq Petroleum Company. His keenness for collecting started at an early age with the acquisition of a few old coins, and led to the creation of an outstanding collection of works of art over a period of 40 years. On his death in 1955, he bequeathed his immense fortune to Portugal and a year later the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation was set up.

Inaugurated in 1969, the purpose-built Calouste Gulbenkian Museum was created as part of the charitable institution bequeathed to Portugal by the multimillionaire. The design of the building, set in a spacious park allowing natural light to fill some of the rooms, was devised to create the best layout for the founder’s varied collection.

The Collection

The collection covers a period from about 2800 BCE up to the 20 th century. Among the pieces on show dating from Classical Antiquity, is a remarkable selection of ancient Greek coins for which the collector nurtured a special affection. A small set of Greek and Roman works completes the series. A very large Assyrian bas-relief, which came from the Ashurnarsirpal Palace in Nimrud brings this section to a close.

Possibly because he was born and lived his early years in Turkey, Gulbenkian was particularly interested in the art of the peoples of the Near and Middle East. The art of Persia, Turkey, Syria, Caucasus, Armenia and India, from the period which lasted between the Mongol invasions of Genghis Khan and the end of the 18 th century, is richly represented in the Collection by ceramics, rare carpets, illuminated books, costumes, glazed tiles, bindings, glass and textiles, lacquer doors and a remarkable piece made of jade totaling 250 objects on show.

At the end of the Oriental Art section is found the gallery dedicated to the Far East, with porcelain and hardstones from China and lacquers and prints from Japan. Once again, it is the taste of the collector which comes to the fore, attracted as he was by exuberant and colorful floral designs, as shown in the superbly made porcelain of the last kingdoms of the Ts’ing Dynasty, with their Baroque decoration.

In the field of European Art, Calouste Gulbenkian gathered together a wide representation of paintings, sculptures and decorative art, from various countries and periods. The section opens with a series of ivory diptychs and triptychs, some of which are French, dating from the 11 th and 14 th centuries. The Flemish and Dutch Schools include a selection of remarkable Primitives, followed in the 17 th century by the two great masters, Rubens and Rembrandt. The Museum owns some of their most famous paintings.

11

As for Italian painting, the earliest picture in the Collection dates from the 15 th century, while the 18 th century is solely represented by Francesco Guardi, with many of his outstanding works, in which Venice always appears as the central theme. Portraits by Thomas Gainsborough, George Romney, John Hoppner and Sir Thomas Lawrence represent English painting of the end of the 18 th century and beginning of the 19 th , together with notable landscapes by Turner. French painting completes the section, with pictures from the schools of the Barbizon and Honfleur as well as works by Corot, Millet, Lépine and Fantin-Latour and goes on to Manet, Degas, Renoir, culminating with the most remarkable of the Impressionists – Monet.

The sculpture, which mainly consists of works of the French School of the 18 th and 19 th centuries, is distributed throughout the various galleries of European art with pieces from the Middle Ages up to the 20 th century. The 14 th , 15 th , 16 th and 17 th centuries are represented by sculptures attributed to Tilman Riemenschneider, A. Rosselino, Jean de Bologne and Coysevox, among others.

The 18 th -century exhibits include the work of Pigalle and Falconet, Caffieri and Lemoyne, Clodion and Houdon, with his chef d’oeuvre, the statue of Diana. This period closes with Rodin and the Collection possesses various works by this famous sculptor, among which is the bronze figure of Jean d’Ayre, one of the group which forms “The Burghers of Calais”. Gulbenkian was particularly attracted by French furniture of the Régence, Louis XV and Louis XVI periods and by rare pieces of silver, made by some of the most remarkable French silversmiths of the 18 th and 19 th centuries.

Gulbenkian also acquired for his collection tapestries, textiles, bronzes, Chinese porcelain mounted on bronzes of the period, French porcelain and objects de vertu of great variety. The Museum includes works by craftsmen such as Cressent, Riesener, Jacob, Durand, Germain, Roettiers and others.

The collector was a great admirer and friend of René Lalique and therefore those responsible for the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum decided that the collection for works by this artist should be shown in a special room, recreating the spirit of the period. The 169 items, made of various materials have been placed together in a unique collection.

CAM The Modern Art Center which is situated on the southern part of the Gulbenkian’s park, contains the largest collection of 20 th and 21 st -century Portuguese art in the world. The Center was renamed the Modern Art Center José de Azeredo Perdigão in honor of its first president.

12

LISBON RESTAURANTS SUGGESTIONS Eleven In a leafy area in the heart of the business district – with views of the city and Tagus River – Eleven is a modern, minimalist restaurant serving sophisticated Mediterranean cuisine. It is home to Michelin-starred Chef Joachim Koerper. Rua Marquês da Fronteira Jardim Amália Rodrigues Tel: +351 21 386 2211 Closed Sundays

O Largo Housed in an old cloister near the opera house, Largo’s surroundings are as hip as the food. Old columns and water tanks with jellyfish characterize the über-cool interiors of designer Miguel Câncio Martins of Paris’s Buddha Bar. The menu is equally modern. Rua Serpa Pinto 10 A, Chiado Tel: +351 21 347 7225

A Travessa Located next to a puppet museum in a magnificently restored 17 th -century convent, this Lisboan institution has taken up residence in various districts throughout the city since 1978. Ask to book a table outside if weather is nice. Travessa do Convento das Bernardas, 12, Lisbon Tel: +351 21 390 2034 Closed Sunday.

Belcanto Distinguished with two Michelin stars, Belcanto restaurant opened in 1958, in Chiado. Its privileged location in Lisbon’s historical center, its discrete service and its cuisine quickly won over the capital’s elites. In 2015, Belcanto was elected one of the best 100 restaurants in the world by the prestigious “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List”.

Largo de São Carlos 10, Lisbon Tel: +351 21 342 0607 Closed Sunday and Monday

Alma Just after a year of closing, Celebrity Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa has brought back his signature restaurant “Alma”. Complementing the space are beautiful high stone-arched ceilings and warm comfortable decoration. Rua Anchieta, 15, Lisbon Tel: +351 21 347 0650 Closed Monday

13

The Town of Evora

Evora is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a member of The Most Ancient European Town Network. It has been shaped by more than 20 centuries of history, going as far back as Celtic times. It fell under Roman domination and still retains, among other ruins, those of the Temple of Diana.

Here are a number of buildings from the medieval period, the best known of which is the Cathedral that was completed in the 13th century. But it was in the 15th century, when the Portuguese kings began living in Évora on an increasingly regular basis, that Évora’s golden age began. At that time, convents and royal palaces sprung up everywhere - St Claire Convent, the royal church and convent of São Francisco, not far from the royal palace of the same name, and Os Lóios Convent with the São João Evangelista Church. These are remarkable monuments that are characterized by their Manueline Style that has survived in the major creations of the 16th century.

The 16th century was a time of major urban planning and while Évora has many major noteworthy 16th-century aristocratic houses, the unique quality of the city comes from the coherence of the "less important" domestic architecture of the 16th-18th centuries. There are numerous low whitewashed houses, decorated with Dutch tiles and wrought-iron balconies and covered with tile roofs or terraces which line narrow streets of medieval quarters. It is a type of architecture that is perfectly adapted to the climate and the location.

Évora remained virtually undamaged by the great earthquake of 1755 that destroyed many towns in Portugal, including Lisbon. The city walls were classified in 1920 under national law and conservation measures were implemented in accordance with internationally recognized principles. As a result, despite the transformation of the city during the 20th century, most of its buildings have preserved their structural authenticity.

14

Monday, May 15

∑ Buffet breakfast in the restaurant of our hotel from 7:00 am.

∑ 8:00-10:50 a.m. Medical meeting in the Conference Room S. Jeronimo.

∑ For those not in the meeting, time for bike fitting. For anyone in the meeting, the fitting will take place post-meeting if you didn’t do it yesterday.

∑ 10:50 a.m. Bike and safety talk for everyone following the meeting in the S. Jeronimo. After this, bikers leave as they wish. Hikers meet immediately following the safety talk for departure by mini-van.

∑ Today’s Ride: For our first day, we ride north to the rug making center of Arraiolos. 47 or 58 km.

∑ Today’s Hike: We transfer the short distance to Nossa Senhora da Graça do Divor and hike north to the town of Arraiolos. 12 km.

∑ Lunch at leisure for both bikers and hikers.

∑ Hikers and bikers can visit the carpet atelier Tapetes de Arraiolos Sempre Noiva when they arrive in town.

∑ Both groups back to the hotel hopefully in plenty of time to enjoy the pool and spa.

∑ 6:15 p.m. Departure for the Quinta do Carmo Winery in Gloria near Estremoz for visit, wine tasting and dinner matched with their top wines. Dress is smart casual.

∑ 10:30 p.m. ETA back at the hotel.

∑ Overnight: Convento do Espinheiro, Evora.

15

TODAY’S SIGHTS

Arraiolos

Arraiolos rugs are actually embroidered floor coverings using a cross-stitch technique that completely covers the linen cloth foundation. During the 17th and 18th centuries, the Portuguese aristocracy listed rugs in their catalogues of riches. Their rugs were treasures, with earthy, vibrant colors and intricate patterns. There were four basic design elements - plants, including two dozen varieties of flowers, geometric patterns based on intricate linear designs of Moorish tiles, animals and birds, real and imaginary, and symbolic shapes such as hearts, crowns and amphorae which may have represented strength, nobility and wealth.

The origins of the techniques used to make the rugs are unclear but it is thought the craft was started in Portugal by the Moors who used carpets as wall coverings and prayer rugs. When the Moors were ousted from Lisbon by order of King Manuel I in 1496, many of them traveled south to southern Spain and North Africa. But along their route of exile, some settled near the Portuguese trading town of Evora in this village of Arraiolos where fertile land for farming and grazing was available. Historians say the Moors taught their rug-making techniques to local women, and the town`s name thereafter became synonymous with this kind of embroidered rug and the stitch used to make it.

The rugs are still made by the same historically accurate and exacting, labor-intensive technique. In fact, rug-making is one of Portugal`s artisanal traditions and today most rugs are made via a cottage industry dominated by the women of Arraiolos estimated to number around 30,000. The carpet store we will visit has a team of over 200 woman working in their homes producing these unique pieces.

A sturdy jute backing is used, and an elongated cross-stitch, reinforced by a double thickness of all-wool yarn covers the canvas. There are two grades of stitching - petit point and gros point (or little and big). The smaller stitch takes more time but it is more durable and expensive. It also allows for more intricate designs. The original vegetable dyes, which produced vibrant reds and blues, have been replaced by a varied palette of chemical colors. Arraiolos rugs are not made on a loom so they can be produced in any size, shape, pattern and color. They are exported to North America but generally cost about 5X what they do in the town itself. Easily folded into a suitcase-sized bundle, they can be transported home with no problem.

Quinta do Carmo

The Quinta do Carmo is part of the wine group owned by billionaire Joe Berardo, Portugal’s richest man and the Bacalhôa Group. The gardens, the vineyards the beautiful cask ageing cellars from the 15th century will be ours exclusively tonight. On a visit in February a massive contemporary sculpture garden was in the works. So tba as to what stage it will be at when we’re here.

16

Alentejo Wine

Alentejo is a well-known, highly respected wine region covering about 1/3 of Portugal. This hot, dry area is best known for its red wines, the best of which are sold under the Alentejo DOC (Denominacao de Origem Controlada) title. These wines are typically made from Aragonez (Tempranillo), Castelao and Trincadeira grapes or a rich, ripe, jammy blend of the three. Although famously diverse in its portfolio of native wine grapes, Alentejo has not been sluggish to adopt such globally popular varieties as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet one of the most remarkable things about modern Alentejo winemaking is its ability to create a uniquely Alentejano wine style from quintessentially French grape varieties. The Antão Vaz is the star white wine grape of the region, with good acidity and tropical fruit flavors. It also responds well to barrel-fermentation.

17

Tuesday, May 16

∑ Buffet breakfast in the restaurant of our hotel from 7:00 am.

∑ 8:00-10:50 am. Medical meeting in the Conference Room S. Jeronimo.

∑ 9:30-10:15 am. If anyone not in the meeting would like to have a guided visit of the hotel’s amazing chapel, then meet at reception.

∑ Today’s Ride: East through rolling countryside along the Degebe River to Vendinha and return if desired. 44 or 87 km or anything in between.

∑ Today’s Hike: Starting from the center of Evora we hike along the Ecopista north to Graça do Divor. 8.9 km.

∑ Lunch at leisure for both bikers and hikers.

∑ Biking and hiking continues through the early afternoon but both groups arrive back to the hotel in plenty of time to enjoy the pool and spa.

∑ 6:00 p.m. Group 1 departs hotel for the Almendres Cromlech. Following there will be dinner together at Restaurant Fialho in Evora.

∑ 6:15 p.m. Group 2 departs hotel for guided visit of Evora. Followed by dinner at leisure. The map of restaurant suggestions and locations will be helpful.

∑ Shuttles back from the bus parking lot to our hotel every ½ hour from 8 pm. Last shuttle leaving at 10:30 pm.

∑ Overnight: Convento do Espinheiro, Evora.

18

TODAY’S SIGHTS

Almendres Megalithic Enclosure

The Alentejo region contains numerous Neolithic stone formations but the finest is the Almendres Cromlech (Cromeleque dos Almendres). The 95 standing stones of the Almendres Cromlech form two large stone circles and were once part of a ceremonial site dedicated to a celestial religion. The entire monument was constructed over a very long period, with the first stones laid in 6,000 BC, and was in continual use until 3,000 BC. Many of the stones have ancient patterns and diagrams of unknown meanings, which add to the mystery of the site. Thankfully, the local government has not fenced off the stones so it seems very uncommercial. It is also not easy to access the site so there are relatively few visitors compared to similar sites elsewhere.

Cork

Growing to a height of 70 feet and more, cork oak is a unique and valuable tree species. Unlike many other oak trees, cork oak is an evergreen and does not drop its leaves. The thick and bumpy dark grey bark is the actual part known as “cork.” During the harvesting of cork, the tree remains alive and standing while large sections of its outer bark - the cork itself - are cut and peeled from the tree. Cork oak is unique in its ability to regenerate its outer bark. After a tree reaches 25 years of age, it can be stripped of its cork once every 9 to 12 years without causing damage to the tree. A single cork oak, which lives up to 200 years, can be harvested over 15 times.

Cork oak is found throughout southwestern Europe and into northwestern Africa as well as in Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia. Portugal, which is home to the largest collection of cork oak trees, is also the world leader in cork production. Here, cork oaks are found in mixed forests alongside other tree species, including a variety of other oaks, stone and maritime pines, and even wild olive trees.

When forests are managed properly, cork oak can provide a sustainable and renewable timber product. Cork is primarily used as a stopper for wine bottles, but also functions as a closure for olive oil and other products. In addition, it’s used to create flooring, furniture and even footwear. Though it is lightweight and elastic, cork remains impermeable to gases and liquids -- the reason it has remained a popular liquid stopper since the times of Ancient Greece.

19

Cork oak also provides its ecosystem with several benefits. The trees help prevent soil erosion from wind and water, and increase the absorption rate of rainfall. The cork oak forests of the Mediterranean act as a barrier to the advancing process of desertification from North Africa. Furthermore, a harvested cork oak tree stores up to five times more carbon than an unharvested tree, since the tree utilizes additional carbon in the regeneration of its bark. Each year, cork oak forests account for 10 million tons of CO2 absorption.

The cork oak faces many threats such as fire, deforestation, agricultural expansion, disease and climate change. Another threat, counterintuitively, is increased demand for alternative wine stoppers. As we embrace the screw top, plastic, and even glass stoppers, the market for cork decreases and fewer cork oak landscapes will be conserved.

EVORA RESTAURANT SUGGESTIONS

On either Tuesday or Wednesday night , you will be eating at Restaurant Fialho with half the group. This is the most famous restaurant in Evora but you probably don’t want to repeat. .

Others that you might like are listed here and on your Restaurant Map and List that has been handed out.

Origens – very cool and great food and wine. Rua de Burgos, 10 Tel. +351 964 220 790.

Cartuxa Enoteca – wine focused and good. Rua Vasco da Gama, 15 Tel. +351 266 748 348.

BL Restaurante – modern, light, local. Rue das Alcaçarias 1 Tel. +351 266 771 323. Tabua do Naldo – fun, bright, relaxed. Rua de Machede 19 Tel. +351 967 776 461.

20

Restaurante Cozinha de Santo Humberto – very traditional and friendly. Rue da Moeda, 39 Tel. +351 266 701 874.

Momentos – tiny, maybe too tiny. Rue 5 de Outubro 61B Tel. +351 925 161 423.

Taberna Típica 4ª Feira – small, rustic, authentic. Rua do Inverno, 16 Tel. +351 266 707 530.

O Combinado – small, very local. A, Rua de Machede, 95 Tel. +351 266 700 627.

Botequim da Mouraria – very simple, long communal table/bar. Rua da Mouraria 16 Tel. +351 266 746 775.

Restaurante Luar de Janeiro – small, cute, simple. Travessa do Janeiro, 13 Tel. +351 266 749 114.

Chão das Covas Café – nice café with tapas and outdoor terrace. Largo Chão das Covas Tel. +351 266 706 294.

O Travador – bar/resto. Rua da Mostardeira, 4 Tel. +351 266 707 370.

Restaurante Dom Joaquim – top restaurant with lovely chef and staff Rua dos Penedos, 6 Tel. +351 266 731 105

Maria Luisa Restaurante – good food and nice people. Praça 1° de Maio, 14 Tel. +351 266 781 333

21

Wednesday, May 17

∑ Buffet breakfast in the restaurant of our hotel from 7:00 am.

∑ 8:00-10:15 a.m. Medical meeting in the Conference Room S. Jeronimo.

∑ 9:00-9:45 a.m. If anyone not in the meeting would like to have a guided visit of the hotel’s beautiful property including its 1000-year-old olive tree, then meet at reception.

∑ Today’s Ride: Around the town of Evora then west to Valverde and the Great Dolmen of Zambujeiro. Then north to Valeira and back into Evora. 43 or 60 km.

∑ Today’s Hike: We begin on the outskirts of Valverde and hike to our picnic spot at the Great Dolmen of Zambujeiro. Then north to Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe. 9.9 km. ∑ Picnic lunch at the dolmen together for both bikers and hikers.

∑ Biking and hiking continues through the early afternoon but both groups arrive back to the hotel in plenty of time to enjoy the pool and spa.

∑ 6:00 p.m. Group 1 departs hotel for the Almendres Cromlech. Following there will be dinner together at Restaurant Fialho in Evora.

∑ 6:15 p.m. Group 2 departs hotel for guided visit of Evora. Followed by dinner at leisure. The map of restaurant suggestions and locations will be helpful. See yesterday’s write- up on the restaurants.

∑ Shuttles back from the bus parking lot to our hotel every ½ hour from 8 pm. Last shuttle leaving at 10:30 pm.

∑ Overnight: Convento do Espinheiro, Evora.

22

TODAY’S SIGHTS

Great Zambujeiro Dolmen

The Great Dolmen of Zambujeiro dates from c.4000-3500 BC, is the largest dolmen in Europe, and a treasured protected National Monument of the country. The dolmen is located in an isolated setting, unfenced among olive and cork trees and has been covered by a simple structure only recently to protect against the elements. The main chamber - measuring 8 meters high and 6 meters in diameter - is formed by eight standing stones leaning inward. Leading to the chamber is a 12-meter-long approach corridor made of smaller standing stones. The capstone has been removed by archaeologists and the artifacts found here (pieces of pottery, flint tools, beads and other items) are on display at the Museum of Evora. Dolmens are collective funereal monuments that correspond, generally, to the second phase of regional megalithism. They were built, for the most part, at the end of the Neolithic Period, about 6,000 years ago.

Sites in Evora

The Renaissance Fountain of Portas de Moura was built in 1556 and carries an original design that includes the globe surrounded by water.

The Holy Spirit College of the Order of Christ , today the nucleus of the University of Évora, was constructed by Cardinal-King Henrique in 1559, and includes 16th-century Mannerist elements, in addition to academic buildings and cloister constructed between the 17th-18th centuries.

The Royal Palace of Évora was built by King Manuel I in Gothic-Renaissance style and according to some chroniclers, it was in this palace in 1497, that Vasco da Gama was given the command of the squadron he would lead on his maritime journey to India.

The Palace of the Counts of Basto is a primitive Moorish castle and later residence of the Afonsine dynastic kings. Its outer architecture displays features of Gothic, Manueline, Mudéjar and Renaissance styles.

The Palace of the Dukes of Cadaval is a 17th-century palace built from the remains of an old castle burned down in 1384. It later served as The Governor and Royal residences. The palace includes Manueline-Moorish architectural elements, manuscripts, family portraits and religious art from the 16th century.

23

Thursday, May 18

∑ Buffet breakfast in the restaurant of our hotel from 7:00 am.

∑ 8:00-10:15 a.m. Medical meeting in the Conference Room S. Jeronimo.

∑ Today’s Ride: South to Viano do Alentejo and a long circle back into Evora. 74 km.

∑ Today’s Hike: Short transfer into the center of Evora and then hike along the Aqueduct de Prata. 8.3 km.

∑ 11:00 a.m. For those who would prefer to neither bike nor hike today but rather spend the time in Evora with an expert guide visiting some sites we could not see during our evening visits, dress in normal street clothes and be on the bus at 11:00 am. You can shop a bit, have lunch at leisure in town and the tour will begin at 2:00 pm. The bus will return from town at 4:00 pm.

∑ Lunch at leisure for both bikers and hikers and non-active.

∑ Biking and hiking continues through the early afternoon but both groups arrive back to the hotel in plenty of time to enjoy the pool and spa.

∑ Dinner is at leisure this evening for everyone. You might choose to stay at the hotel and eat in the restaurant or bar. But if you do want to go into Evora……..

∑ Shuttles into Evora starting at 6:30 pm. Every ½ hour until 8:00 pm. Shuttles back from Evora to the hotel starting at 8:00 pm. Every ½ hour until 10:30 pm. The restaurant map and listing will be helpful.

∑ Overnight: Convento do Espinheiro, Evora.

24

TODAY’S SIGHTS

Aqueduct of Evora

Evora contains one of the Iberian Peninsula's greatest 16th-century building projects, the Aqueduto da Água de Prata. The aqueduct provided clean drinking water to Evora by connecting the city to the nearest constant flowing river, 9km to the north. The channeled water flowed through a complex set of structures that included long tunnels, deep valleys and most impressively, over massive stone aqueducts. This clever design meant that the water from the river could flow unassisted into the Praça do Giraldo, the main square of Evora. The northern sections of the aqueduct, close to the river Ribeira do Divor, pass through tunnels and channels, but closer to the city, aqueducts had to be built to span the wide valleys. The tallest of these grand stone arches arches is 26 meters high and spans one of the main roads into the city.

25

Friday, May 19

∑ Buffet breakfast in the restaurant of our hotel from 7:00 am.

∑ 8:00-10:15 a.m. Medical meeting in the Conference Room S. Jeronimo.

∑ Today’s Ride: North-east to the town of Redondo and return. 44 or 83 km.

∑ Today’s Hike: Transfer to the village of Hortinhas and then a 12.7 km hike into the town of Redondo.

∑ Lunch at leisure for both bikers and hikers.

∑ Opportunity in Redondo to visit the ceramic atelier and shop of Olaria Pirraça.

∑ Biking and hiking continues through the early afternoon but both groups arrive back to the hotel in plenty of time to enjoy the pool and spa or perhaps pack in anticipation of tomorrow’s departure.

∑ 7:00 p.m. Meet for drinks before our final gala dinner in the courtyard of the hotel restaurant.

∑ Overnight: Convento do Espinheiro, Evora.

26

TODAY’S SIGHTS

Olaria Pirraça and Redondo Pottery

Hand-painted Redondo Pottery is perhaps the country’s most interesting ceramic production. It is quite rustic, even rough and simple, with the main decoration of flowers, leaves, the sun, roosters, small cottages, cork trees and shepherds.

Olaria Pirraca produces only handmade and hand-painted pottery. In 1930, when the atelier was founded by Ezequiel Pirraça, this small village had more than 40 active pottery studios and the production constituted a major source of economic activity and employment in the region. But over the years, mainly due to shortage of specialized skill, most of the production has ceased. Luckily, in this instance, the father transmitted the knowledge down to his son and Manuel Pirraça currently leads the company working in collaboration with a potter and three painters all of whom he trained.

27

Saturday, May 20

∑ Buffet breakfast in the restaurant of our hotel starting at 5:00 am.

∑ 2 group transfers will take place this morning.

First Transfer

Bus leaving at 6:00 am sharp. Going directly to the Lisbon International Airport. Scheduled to arrive at the airport by 8:00 am.

Your luggage must be outside your door by 5:00 am. You can put it outside your door before you go to bed if you wish. Or you can bring it out to the bus yourself by 5:45 am if you prefer that.

Second Transfer

Bus leaving at 8:30 am sharp.

The bus will first stop at the Hotel Intercontinental in downtown Lisbon. Arrival there by 10:30 am.

If anyone wants, the bus will then carry on to the Oriente Train Station in Lisbon. Arrival there by 11:00 am.

And if anyone wants, the bus will then carry on to the Lisbon International Airport. Arrival there by 11:30 am.

Your luggage must be outside your door by 7:30 am. Do not put it outside your door before 6:00 am or it will get confused with the other earlier transfer. Or you can bring it out to the bus yourself by 8:15 am if you prefer that.

Have a good trip home.

28

A Brief History of Portugal

Celts, Romans and Visigoths – 2000 BC – 711 AD

As part of the Iberian Peninsula, Portugal shares much of its ancient history with Spain. Indeed, it is hard to disentangle the two until the 12 th -century creation of an independent Portuguese kingdom when the Christians drove out the Moors. Cut off from the rest of Europe by the northern mountains, this was a land apart.

Early settlers had occupied parts of the country as far back as 5500 BC, but the historical dawn really broke with the establishment of a Celtic culture in the north around 700-600 BCE. Farther south, by 300 BCE, Phoenicians and Carthaginians, two great trading nations, had settled in turn around modern Lisbon. They were followed by the Romans who arrived in 210 BCE.

In the 5 th century AD, as the Roman Empire fell apart, Vandals, Alans, Suevi and Visigoths crossed the Pyrenees from the north and settled in the area between the Douro and Minho Rivers. By the 5 th century, the Visigoths had gained the upper hand over their main rivals, the Suevi. They ruled from Toledo in modern Spain and had little interest, and less influence in what was to become Portugal. In the 8 th century, their lack of cohesion resulted in one faction asking the North African Moors for aid. By 711, however, the Muslim forces had turned on the Visigoths and were sweeping through Iberia.

The Moors – 711 – 1249

The damp green hills of northern Portugal held little attraction for the Moors, who were happy to concentrate their efforts on the well-watered Tejo Valley, the rich lands of the Alentejo and, above all, the Algarve. This was the heart of their Portuguese territorial holdings. By the 9 th century, the Algarve was a rich and important kingdom in its own right, entirely independent of neighboring Andalus. Xelb, modern Silves, was its glittering capital, from where tolerant laws were issued to the Moçárabes , the Christians subject to Moorish rule. Agriculture and scholarship flourished, with towns growing up across the Moorish holdings.

Meanwhile, the Christians were regrouping up in the north in what they called Portucale, the lands between the Minho and Douro. It was from here that Afonso Henriques launched his push southwards to drive out the infidels. The Portuguese victory at Ourique in 1139 was a major blow for the Moors. By 1148 Lisbon was in Christian hands and Afonso Henriques’ title as the first king of Portugal had been confirmed by the treaty of Zamora. The following century

29

saw steady Christian expansion and in 1249 Faro fell to them and Christian Portugal had established its mainland borders pretty much where they are today.

The First King of Portugal

Born in 1109, Afonso Henriques was the son of Henry of Burgundy and Tareja, the illegitimate daughter of Afonso VI, King of Léon and Castile of Spain. Henry died in 1114, leaving Tareja as regent of the embryonic kingdom.

By the time he was 30, Afonso Henriques had wrested power from his mother, established his capital at Guimarães, won a stunning victory over the Moors at Ourique, repudiated his vassalage to Léon and declared himself King of Portucale. In 1143, Léon, although reluctant to relinquish its influence over the kingdom, recognized Afonso’s right to the throne. Papal approval quickly followed. Afonso went on to drive the Moors out of Santarém and Lisbon. By the time of his death in 1185, only the Alentejo and the Algarve remained in Moorish hands.

The Battle of Ourique

According to legend, God was certainly on Afonso’s side at the battle of Ourique in 1139. The legend has it that Christ appeared to Afonso in a vision immediately before the battle encounter and blessed his shield. Guarded by this blessing, Afonso took on no fewer than five Moorish kings in single combat. He and his forces won a decisive victory. His deeds are commemorated on the Portuguese national flag, which has five shields on it. Some argue that the number represents the Moorish rulers Afonso defeated, some that it symbolizes the five wounds of Christ on the Cross.

Ancient Orders

Warriors were needed to oust the Moors and in 1166, Afonso Henriques raised an elite force of knights that was to become the great military Ordem de Avis . Like the Knights Templar, it was a fighting monastic order, its members taking vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. Its prime obligation was to fight the Moors whenever the king should command it. The order was given the town of Avis as its headquarters, and later monarchs donated vast tracts of the re- conquered lands to the knights.

30

In 1789 the order was secularized, though its members still came from the aristocracy. It still exists and is one of the oldest surviving chivalric orders in Europe, with Portugal’s president as its head. Membership is conferred on outstanding army officers.

The Great Age of Discoveries – 1249 – 1520

With its borders settled and a stable monarchy on the throne, Portugal’s main worry for the next 150 years or so was the Castile, its powerful and territorially ambitious neighbor to the east of Spain. The heroic Dom Dinis (reigned 1279-1325) got Castile to recognize Portugal’s borders in 1297 but it was only Portuguese victory at the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 that eventually led to a lasting peace.

With Castile put firmly in its place, it is hardly surprising that the thoughts of maritime Portugal turned seawards. The following century saw an unprecedented age of discovery and exploration. Prince Henry the Navigator, the son of João I and Philippa of Lancaster had the ocean-going caravel designed and founded the School of Navigation at Sagres in the Algarve with the aim of making long-distance exploration feasible.

Between 1419 and 1497, Portuguese seamen discovered Madeira and the Azores, opened up the west coast of Africa, rounded the Cape of Good Hope, and found a sea route to India and beyond. As a result, Portugal became the world’s premier trading nation. In 1494, Portugal and Spain signed the Treaty of Tordesillas. Negotiated by the Pope, this drew an imaginary line down the Atlantic, giving Portugal Brazil and the Orient. The Spanish took the rest of the Americas.

A Battle and a Promise

João I’s proclamation as King of Portugal in 1385 led to an immediate confrontation with Castile, which backed the rival claimant to the throne. Juan I invaded the country at the head of a 30,000-strong army. On the eve of battle, João vowed to build a great abbey in honor of the Virgin Mary if he was victorious. The two armies clashed at Aljubarrota and, undoubtedly helped by England’s timely loan of 500 of its justly famous archers, the Portuguese captured the Castilian standard within an hour. Juan was chased back in to Castile and Portuguese independence was secured for the next 200 years. Three years later, João kept his promise to the Virgin and the building of the great abbey at Batalha began.

31

The English Connection

When the English nobleman John of Gaunt sent his archers to aid João I on the battlefield of Aljubarrota, it was a move that paved the way for one of Europe’s oldest alliances. Suitably grateful for English help, João concentrated on cementing ties between the two countries. In 1386, he signed the treaty of Windsor and in 1387 he married Philippa of Lancaster, the daughter of John of Gaunt. They had five sons, the third of which was the inspirational Henry the Navigator – a half-English Prince. Henry IV, Henry V and Henry VI of England successively ratified the Treaty of Windsor. Henry IV made João a Knight of the Garter, England’s highest order of chivalry, to reward his loyalty.

Into the ‘Sea of Darkness’

In the early 15 th century, rounding Cape Bojador on the West African coast was the ultimate challenge. The southernmost point on sea-charts, it was the edge of the world, beyond which lay a ‘sea of darkness’. It was hardly surprising that sailors were scared of this stretch of water and its approaches. Between 1421 and 1433, no less than 14 expeditions failed to round the cape, and Henry the Navigator was losing patience with his lily-livered captains. In 1434 he dispatched the explorer Gil Eanes with instructions to round the cape without fail, promising him rich rewards if he succeeded. Eanes sailed south, doubled back from the Canaries and rounded the cape. The deadlock of superstition was broken and the way south was opened.

Spanish Domination – 1520 – 1640

By 1520 Portuguese wealth and power may have been at its zenith, but with such a far-flung empire, there were hidden problems that were soon to bubble up to the surface. Very little of the money flowing into the country filtered down to the people at large and there was no developing entrepreneurial class to handle the national finances. After the expulsion of the Jews and the establishment of the Inquisition, Portugal was left with a huge commercial empire, but not the financial expertise to run it.

By 1580, the money coming in from the empire was no longer enough to maintain it and debts and costs were rising. Something had to give – and what gave was the monarchy. Three years after Dom Sebastião’s death, his uncle Philip II of Spain moved in, defeated the Portuguese at Alcântara and had himself crowned king in 1581. After a rosy start, Spanish domination brought few advantages. By 1640 the Portuguese had had enough. Conspirators threw out the Spanish governor and popular pressure persuaded the reluctant Duke of Bragança, head of Portugal’s most powerful noble family, to take the throne as João IV.

32

Disaster in Morocco

Things may have been going badly at home, but the deeply religious and equally bloodthirsty Dom Sebastião (reigned 1557-1578) was determined to resurrect the glory days of the Christian reconquest. Obsessed with war and bored with matters of state, Sebastião’s ambition was to launch nothing less than an all-out crusade against the Muslims in North Africa. In 1578, Sebastião managed to assemble a 14,000-strong army and set sail for Morocco. Near Alcázarquivir he met 40,000 Muslims who overwhelmed the Christian forces, killing Sebastião and 8,000 of his followers. Only three years later, the remnants of the Portuguese army were to stand little chance against Phillip II of Spain when he marched into Portugal to claim the throne.

The Road to Recovery – 1640 – 1826

With the house of Bragança installed on the throne, relations with England back on course, and the discovery of gold and diamonds in Brazil, things were looking up. Money poured into the royal coffers, and just as quickly poured out again, as João V (reigned 1706-1750) embarked on an orgy of spending, squandering vast sums on lavish building schemes. His son, José I (reigned 1750-1777) was fortunate to have as his chief minister the Marquês de Pombal, a believer in enlightened despotism who dealt with the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755 and launched a massive modernization drive.

The rise of Napoleon led to a major new threat for the country. Lisbon was captured by the French in 1807, João VI fled to Brazil, and Portugal found itself embroiled in the Peninsular War. Two British generals, the Duke of Wellington and Lord Beresford, played the major role in expelling the French, but things remained unsettled until 1820, when Portuguese liberals drew up a new constitution. On his return from Brazil, the king accepted it, but his queen and younger son, Miguel, had other ideas. They led a reactionary movement that, after João’s death in 1826, was to set the monarchy on an inexorable, though slow, slide to its eventual overthrow early the next century.

The Lisbon Earthquake

On 1 November 1755, as Lisbon churches were packed for the annual Mass on All Soul’s Day, disaster struck in the form of a catastrophic earthquake, the aftershock of which was felt as far away as North Africa. For six minutes the ground heaved, while roofs and domes collapsed, killing thousands, and a tidal wave swept in from the Tejo River, engulfing much of the lower part of the city. Candles, lit for the feast day, ignited fires that would burn for days. The destruction included the Se Cathedral, the Igreja de Carmo, the grand library and the royal palace (Ribeira Palace).

33

The chief minister, Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, later the Marqués de Pombal, stepped in, advising ‘bury the dead, feed the living’. Thanks to him, nobody starved, there were no epidemics and, within 20 years, the Baixa, the historic heart of the city, had been triumphantly rebuilt.

The Brazilian Question

With Napoleon’s troops massing for invasion in 1807, the royal family, court and government hot-footed it across the Atlantic to Brazil and Rio de Janeiro. It was a bad move for the mother country. By 1815 Portugal, now administered by Beresford, was far weaker than its most important colony. Trouble in the shape of the liberals loomed at home and in 1821, João VI, weak, indecisive and suffering from piles, set sail for Lisbon with 4,000 officials and plenty of cash purloined from the Bank of Brazil. He left his son Pedro behind as regent. The next year, Pedro refused to return to Portugal. In 1822, he declared Brazilian independence. Portugal had lost its largest possession.

Towards a Republic – 1826 – 1910

When João VI died in 1826, his son and heir, Pedro, emperor of newly independent Brazil, installed his brother Miguel as regent in Portugal – but only on the condition he accepted a new, more liberal constitution. Miguel agreed, but once in power, promptly restored absolutist rule. Britain, Spain and France backed the liberals, who finally succeeded in installing Pedro (who had abdicated in Brazil) as king in 1834. The rest of the century saw a constant tug of war between those who supported Pedro’s 1826 constitution and the liberals, who clamored for a return to the 1820 version they had devised, which was much more democratic.

By the 1850s, the two factions had settled into a fairly stable two-party system. The monarchy, meanwhile, now virtually bankrupt and humiliated as stronger European powers embarked on a scramble for territory in Africa, became increasingly unpopular and there was a growing surge of republicanism. Dom Carlos (reigned 1889-1908) clung to outdated ideas of kingship, attempting to rule dictatorially. In an attempted coup in 1908, he and his eldest son were assassinated. His successor Manuel, hung on for another two years, until he was forced off the throne and into exile when the army and navy revolted.

Libertador and Usurpador

In February 1828, Pedro IV’s brother Miguel, having promised to uphold the new constitution, arrived in Portugal. By July, he had overthrown it and had himself crowned king. The move was

34

not unpopular in Portugal itself, but Pedro, back in Brazil, saw it as a usurpation of his daughter Maria’s rights. She had been married to Miguel at the age of seven. Pedro abdicated in Brazil, and sailed for the Azores, where, in 1832, he set up a government-in-exile. From here, he captured Porto, but could get no farther until, with the help of the Duke of Terceiro’s forces marching from the south, Lisbon fell to him in 1833. When Pedro died in 1834, Maria was put on the throne and Miguel went into exile.

The Saxe-Coburg-Gotha Connection

Pedro IV, king of Portugal and ex-emperor of Brazil, died in 1834, leaving his daughter Maria to inherit the throne. Her second husband died and in 1836 she married Ferdinand of Saxe- Coburg-Goth, a cousin of Queen Victoria’s adored consort, Prince Albert.

Ferdinand was to be an equally devoted husband. Like his cousin, he dabbled in the arts, helping to design the neo-Gothic Palácio da Pena at in the 1840s. He also had a hand in restoring the treasures of Mafra and Alcobaça, both of which had been damaged by anti- clericals, and still found the time to father 11 children. His eldest son, Pedro V, came to the throne when he was only 16, Ferdinand having been regent for the previous two years.

The Fall of the Monarchy

By 1910, following years of mounting republican agitation, revolution was in the air. It came at dawn on 4 October, when units of the army and navy rose, backed up by civilians. Lisbon’s Rotunda was occupied and two warships bombarded the king’s residence. By mid-morning, the republican flag flew above the city and Manuel left for Mafra. The following day, fishermen ferried the royal family out to their yacht, which sailed for Gibraltar. Before he left, Manuel wrote ‘…I am Portuguese and always will be…Viva Portugal’. He lived out his exile in England, dying at Twickenham in 1932, and was buried in the royal pantheon in the church of São Vicente de Fora, Lisbon.

Dictatorship and Revolution – 1910 – 1974

Between 1910 and 1926 the new Portuguese republic was in chaos. 45 governments came and went, and there were military risings, financial meltdown and rising hostility to the politicians throughout the country. Things came to a head in 1926 with the military-backed suspension of the republican constitution and the installation of General Carmona as president - he was to remain in office until his death in 1951.

35

The stage was set for the rise of António de Oliveira Salazar, a one-time economist from Coimbra University who was to control the country until 1968. In 1928 he was installed as finance minister, becoming prime minister and dictator in 1932. He balanced the books but at a huge cost. Portugal’s political, economic and cultural life was stifled for almost 40 years. Foreign investment was discouraged, censorship was absolute, agriculture stagnated and the poor were kept illiterate. The idea was to keep the masses in their place with a diet of ‘ fado, Fátima and football’.

In a changing world, this could not go on forever. There were demands for greater democracy at home, while resisting the clamor for independence in the colonies impoverished the country further. The result was revolution.

The Iron Hand

Salazar may have spurned the pomp and the rhetoric of fascism but he admired Hitler and Mussolini, even keeping a photograph of the latter on his desk. Following the Nazi example, he set up the deeply-feared PIDE ( Polícia Internacional e de Defensa do Estado), a special police force modeled on and initially trained by the Gestapo. Backed by a vast network of paid informers, the PIDE permeated every aspect of Portuguese society. In 1936 Salazar set up a military-style youth movement, the Mocidade Portuguesa , and the paramilitary, extreme right- wing Legião Portuguesa, both adopted the Nazi salute and survived right up to the 1974 Revolution.

World War II

It took a fine balancing act to keep Portugal out of World War II. Salazar, despite his admiration for Hitler and Mussolini, knew that neutrality was essential for the country. In 1939 he signed a mutual protection pact with the Franco regime in Spain to ensure this. Portugal became a base for the rich, political refugees, spies and exiled royalty. The Germans were kept happy with supplies of tungsten, a vital mineral for war production, and the British by being allowed to set up military bases in the Azores. The Portuguese themselves were mainly pro-Allies, subtly demonstrating their loyalties by drumming their feet or coughing loudly whenever Hitler or Mussolini appeared on cinema newsreels. The sight of George VI or Winston Churchill on screen was greeted with shouts of ‘ Viva…Benfica ’ - there could have been no greater compliment than to compare the two men with Portugal’s best-loved football team.

36

Salazar’s Final Years

In August 1968, while enjoying the summer at Estoril, Salzar fell heavily from his canvas director’s chair, striking his head on the tiled floor. The blow had no immediate effects, but by September, crushing headaches proved to be the symptoms of a brain haematoma. The operation to drain it was successful, but it was followed by a massive hemorrhage on the other side of the brain. Marcelo Caetano took over as premier, but, such was the fear that Salazar inspires, nobody dared to tell him that his days of power were over. He lived for another two years, receiving ministers and even journalist, believing to the end he still had absolute control over Portugal. He died in July 1970.

The Carnation Revolution

Opposition to Marcelo Caetano, Salazar’s successor, crystalized in the army with the formation of the Movimento das Forças Armada (MFA), a group of young officers disillusioned with the wasteful colonial struggle and conditions at home. After one abortive attempt, things came to a head in April 1974 under Major Otelo Saraiva de Carvalho. Just after midnight on 25 April, the start of the revolution was heralded by the radio broadcast of a banned protest song. By 3 am Lisbon was secure. At 8 am the MFA made its first broadcast, and within hours red carnations, the seasonal flowers, sprouted from rifle barrels all over the country, a symbol of revolution and regained freedom.

The End of an Empire

By 1960 Portugal faced growing colonial problems. In 1961, India marched into Goa, dramatically ending more than 400 years of Portuguese rule. In Africa, Salazar attempted to defuse the freedom movements by combining a determined hearts-and-minds campaign with a ruthless military clamp-down on the guerrillas. After the 1974 revolution though, popular opinion at home was pressing for granting the colonies their independence. Exhausted by long years of war, the Portuguese withdrew from Angola in 1975, leaving the liberation movements to battle it out for power. Thousands of Angolans were killed in the ensuing war. In 1976 Portugal withdrew from East Timor, the result being more than two decades of bloody Indonesian rule.

Modern Portugal – 1974 - Today

The 1974 revolution heralded the start of Portugal’s emergence as a fully-fledged democracy onto the world stage. The teething troubles of the 1970s and early 1980s receded with

37

Portugal’s entry in to the European Community in 1986, a move that brought unprecedented economic growth at every level. Portuguese self-confidence boomed with huge success of Expo ’98 in Lisbon, the problems of the last colonies were laid to rest, and inflation, infant mortality and illiteracy were tackled increasingly successfully. The euro replaced the escudo as the national currency in 2002, and in 2004 the European Football Championships, held in the country, introduced yet more foreigners to the charms of Portugal as a tourist destination. Problems remain, but Portugal faces the future with growing optimism.

A Democratic State

Modern Portugal is a democracy, ruled by a government elected by citizens over the age of 18. It has a president, who is commander-in-chief of the armed forces, a prime minister, a council of ministers, a Parliament and an independent judiciary. The president is elected for five years and is advised by a 16-strong council of state. Guided by the assembly election results, he appoints the council of ministers, who present their program to the assembly for debate. Portugal has two autonomous overseas regions, Madeira and the Azores. Macau, Portugal’s last dependency reverted to Chinese rule in 1999.

38

P o r t W i n e

The distinctive character of Port does not come only from its method of production. Like that of every great classic wine, it is also born of an association of climate, soil and grape varieties unique in the world. Being fortified, Port is capable of ageing in wood for much longer than most other wines – from two years to many decades, depending on its character and potential. It may mature in cask, vat or bottle - or a combination of these. The differing periods and methods of ageing give rise to a diversity of different styles, each with its own distinctive character and purpose.

The Douro

The steep green slopes of the Douro Valley are situated in northern Portugal, near to the Spanish border. The valley gets its name from the Douro River that winds for more than 500 miles from its source in Spain, through Portugal, to Oporto where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean.

To create the terraces on which the vines grow, the sedimentary rock, known as schistose, is broken up using dynamite. With the upper layer of soil loosened, the vines have to push their roots down as much as 25 meters to find water.

More than thirty grape varieties grow in the port wine region, but only five are essential components of fine port wine. The varieties are extremely resilient as the climate in this region is very harsh. The winters are bitterly cold, although it rarely snows, while in summer the temperature often reaches 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

Grape Varieties

Touriga Nacional

The finest of all grapes for making red port, this variety grows vigorously but yields an extremely small amount of fruit from small, blue-black berries. Low as the yield may be, it is massive in its power and quality. The wine produced from the Touriga Nacional grape is very dark and concentrated, with a powerful and rich berry aroma. Its tastes are in perfect harmony with great reserves of fruit balancing a tannic structure which is both massive and supple. It is this power and balance which makes the juice of the Touriga Nacional a vital component in most of the finest vintage ports. Moderately resistant to fungal diseases, it thrives in the hot and arid soils of the Alto Douro.

39

Touriga Francesa

The Touriga Francesa is a more productive grape than the Touriga Nacional, yielding wines that are slightly lighter in color and weight. Its great value is the heavily scented quality of the wine it produces, which contributes a very fine and intense perfume to the final blend.

Tinta Roriz

Of the five classic port grapes, only one variety - Tinta Roriz - is not a Portuguese native. The variety is also grown in Spain, where in the Rioja region it is known as the Tempranillo. Tinta Roriz is tough and masculine in its character, yielding surprisingly good quantities even in the most arid conditions. Its wines bring a firm tannic structure to the final blend of port. They often have a distinctive ‘resiny’ nose.

Tinto Cão

Perhaps the most ancient of the ‘big five’, the Tinto Cão has flourished in the Douro since the 15 th century. It offers quality more than quantity, producing small amounts of wine, but wine of an exceptional finesse. Where the Tourigas provide berry aromas of a rich intensity, Tinto Cão contributes its own aromatic complexity. Its wines are also unusually long-lasting, of no little importance in the making of vintage port.

Tinta Barocca

A relative newcomer to the Douro cultivated only in the last hundred years but welcomed for its high yield and the flowery aromas of its wine. Able to withstand cool conditions, it is usually planted on north-facing slopes, where its grapes grow in large bunches. The wines of Tinta Barocca are robust, with a flowery aroma that contrasts with the more fruity smells of the varieties already mentioned. Some consider it one of the Douro’s top three, and although different conditions can produce wines of varying quality, the Barocca has been a welcome innovation. It can be particularly useful in softening the final blend.

How is Port Made?

Port is made just like other wines except that neutral grape spirit brandy is used to arrest the fermentation process to create a fortified, sweet dessert wine.

In September the grapes are picked by hand. As the grapes ripen at different times, picking commences near the river, the hot valley floor, reaching the upper parts of the vineyard a 1,000 feet higher, three weeks later. The vineyard is planted in such a way that those grape varieties

40

that prefer the extra heat, such as Touriga Nacional, are planted near the river, and Tinta Cão at the top of the vineyard.

The grapes are taken to the winery for pressing and in many wineries; the grapes are still trodden by foot in large stone tanks called lagares . Each lagar holds a day’s picking, about 6,000 liters of grape juice or must.

Treading is not done for show - maceration by human foot brings out the full concentration of flavor from the grape skin, from which it draws a deeper color. Port production, unlike table wine, has only a three day production cycle (as opposed to seven days) giving little time to extract the maximum color and flavor.

Grapes not trodden are made into port using a number of possible methods from ‘pump-over’ stainless steel vats and ‘vinomatics’ to the most recent experimental fermentation tanks, emulating the maceration technique of the human foot.

Whichever technique is used, all port is fortified with grape spirit of 77º alcohol, before it has fully fermented - normally when only half the natural grape sugars have been converted into alcohol. This stops the fermentation, keeping the wine sweet, but raising its alcoholic strength to almost double that of a table wine: between 19 and 22 degrees of alcohol.

The wine is stored in great oak casks, resting over winter in the wineries where it was made. In the spring of the following year it is brought down the river to the lodges at Vila Nova de Gaia.

Prior to arriving at the lodge, the wines are tasted to decide how they will be blended. Those destined for Tawny will be put in small casks (known as pipes) which contain only 550 liters and allow the wines to mature to their characteristic orange-brown color.

There are two main categories of Port: Vintage Port and Wood Port.

Vintage Port

While vintage port accounts for only a small percentage of the total production, it is the possibility of declaring a vintage that excites everyone. Was it an exceptional year? Great enough to declare a true vintage? Or was it merely a very good year, justifying the production of “single quinta vintages”. The decision is taken by the tasting panel, which consists of the vineyards’ Board of Directors, the winemaking team and professional tasters.

A vintage wine is a selection of the very best wines from a single exceptional year. It is kept in cask for two years and then put into bottles, where it will continue maturing for many years.

41

Each bottle is laid horizontally and given a splash of white paint, so that it will always rest with that side uppermost. The natural deposit will settle opposite the ‘splash’.

Vintage ports are shipped soon after bottling and it is up to the wine merchant or the buyer to lay it down for years to come - at least ten, and as much as fifty. Single quinta ports are ready to drink around ten years old, and can last up to twenty years.

Wood Port

Within the wood aged Port family, there are three main styles:

Ruby Port

Wine whose color resembles that of the precious stone called ruby. This happens because the ageing process has little or no oxidation during its usual three years in wooden barrels. It is a young, full bodied wine rich in fruity aromas.

Tawny Port

The difference between Tawny Port and Ruby Port is simply the amount of time that the wine spends in the wood cask before it is blended and bottled. As the wine ages, the ruby-red color of the young wine becomes paler and browner. Top tawny Ports from the best producers are just as complex and fine as vintage Port, though they will have a different character.

White Port

White Ports differ from each other’s in sweetness and ageing period. The youngest Ports are normally drunk in the beginning of meals. The oldest ones have longest ageing periods and intense flavors and should be drunk at dessert. According to sweetness level, white Port has four categories: Extra Seco, Seco, Doce and Lágrima.

42

Portuguese Cuisine

Despite the lasting influence it has had on food in such far-away places as Macau and Goa, Portuguese cuisine is hugely underrepresented outside Portugal. Often confused with Spanish cooking, it is, in fact, quite distinct. At its best, Portuguese food is simple ingredients impeccably prepared. Based on regional produce, emphasizing fish, meat, olive oil, tomato, and spices, it features hearty soups, homemade bread and cheeses, as well as unexpected combinations of meat and shellfish.

For a relatively small nation, Portugal has surprising gastronomic variety. The Estremadura region, which includes Lisbon, is famous for its seafood - the fish market at Cascais, just outside the capital, is one of the largest in the country - while the production of sausages and cheese elsewhere adds another dimension to the national cuisine. The Algarve, the last region of Portugal to achieve independence from the Moors, and situated on North Africa's doorstep, contributes a centuries-old tradition of almond and fig sweets. Indeed, the Portuguese have a long history of absorbing culinary traditions from other peoples.

The age of discovery was propelled by the desire for exotic spices and ever since Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to India at the turn of the 16 th century, they have proved enormously popular. Peri-peri , a Brazilian spice transplanted to the former African colonies is used to flavor chicken and shrimp. Curry spices from Goa are common seasonings. These spices are typically used very sparingly, adding subtle flavor and depth to dishes. It is these influences that have helped make Portuguese food so markedly different from that of other Mediterranean countries and in Lisbon today there are scores of restaurants specializing in the cuisines of the old empire as well as Brazilian-style juice bars, offering drinks and ice-cream made from exotic fruits.

SAVORY DISHES

Fish If there is one thing that typifies traditional Portuguese food however, it is fish. From the common anchovy to swordfish, sole, sea bream, bass and salmon, markets and menus reveal the full extent of Portugal's love affair with seafood. In Portugal, even a street-bought fish burger is filled with flavor.

Bacalhau , salted cod, is said to be the basis for some 365 recipes, one for each day of the year. Two dishes are particularly notable. Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá , essentially a casserole of cod, potatoes and onion, is an Oporto specialty and considered perhaps Portugal's greatest bacalhau recipe. And from Estremadura comes bacalhau á bràs , scrambled eggs with salted cod, potatoes and onions.

Shellfish, including clams ( amêijoas ) and mussels ( mexilhões ) are also of a high quality. Crab and squid are often stuffed, and lulas recheadas à lisbonense (stuffed squid Lisbon-style) is a great

43

example of Portuguese seafood. Visitors to Lisbon can find traditional shops by the docks selling snails ( caracóis ).

Meats There are plenty of options for the meat-lover too. Espetada, grilled skewers of beef with garlic, is popular, as is suckling pig ( leitão ). Cozido à portuguesa , a one-dish meal of beef, pork, sausage and vegetables, reflects the resourcefulness of traditional cooking.

A rather more unusual combination is the pork and clams of porco à alentejana (pork Alentejo- style). Pork is also cooked with mussels na cataplana , with the wok-like cataplana sealing in the flavors.

Meanwhile, the city of Oporto boasts tripa à moda do Porto (Oporto-style tripe), supposedly a legacy from the days of Prince Henry the Navigator, when the city was left with nothing but tripe after providing the Infante's ships with food. To this day, Oporto natives are known as tripeiros , or tripe-eaters.

Broiled chicken ( frango grelhado ), seasoned with peri-peri , garlic, and/or olive oil, is one of the few things that has made its mark outside Portugal, where it can be found in cities with a large Portuguese population. The highly aromatic peri-peri chicken is often served in specialist restaurants.

Soups Soups constitute an integral part of traditional cooking, with all manner of vegetables, fish and meat used to create a variety of soups, stews and chowders.

Caldo verde (literally green broth), made from a soup of kale-like cabbage thickened with potato and containing a slice of salpicão or chouriço sausage, originated from the northern province of Minho but is now considered a national dish.

Along with canja de galinha (chicken broth), caldo verde is a filling, comforting and ubiquitous favorite. For the more adventurous, caldeirada de lulas à madeirense (squid stew Madeira- style) features a characteristically Portuguese combination of seafood, curry and ginger.

Another typical dish is the açorda where vegetables or shellfish are added to thick rustic bread to create a 'dry' soup.

SWEET DISHES

Cakes and Pastries Those with a sweet tooth may be interested to learn that one of Portugal's best-kept culinary secrets is its vast and distinctive range of desserts, cakes and pastries.

44

A staple of restaurant menus is chocolate mousse - richer, denser and smoother than foreign versions - while other favorites include arroz doce , a lemon and cinnamon-flavored rice pudding.

The most famous sweets, however, are the rich egg-yolk and sugar-based cakes, influenced by Moorish cooking and perfected by Guimerães nuns in the 16 th century.

For a uniquely Portuguese experience, the visitor should head for a pasteleria (or confeitaria ), where the many varieties of cakes and other confections, as well as savory delicacies like bolinhas de bacalhau , cod balls, are served.

The Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, where the legendary pastéis de nata , delicious custard-filled tarts, are baked, is a Lisbon highlight. Nearby Sintra has its own traditional pastry, queijadas de Sintra (a type of cheese tart), which street vendors sell in packs of six. And in Evora, there is no better place to try out these delicacies than Fábrica dos Pasteis located at Rua Alcàrcova de Cima, 10. There are astonishing remnants of the Roman Wall inside the shop.

45

Portuguese Language

Portuguese is a Romance language, evolved from Latin, which developed over the seven centuries of Roman occupation. It is very similar to Galician, the language spoken in Spain’s northwest corner. Over the years, words have crept in from the north, from Arabic, and from India and China but Portuguese remains a Latin-based tongue, even though it sounds more like something from Eastern Europe. It’s the official language of Portugal’s historic colonies, with Brazil leading the field. It ranks 8 th among the most spoken languages world-wide.

Here are a few words to get you started:

Basic Words Yes: Sim No: Não Thank you: Obrigado (male), Obrigada (female) You are welcome: De nada Please: Por favor Excuse me: Desculpe-me, Com licença Hello: Olá, Oi Good morning: Bom dia Good afternoon: Boa tarde Good evening: Boa noite Good night: Boa noite Good bye: Tchau, adeus

Places Museum: Museu Bank: Banco Police Station: Delegacia de polícia Hospital: Hospital Pharmacy: Farmácia Store, shop: Loja Restaurant: Restaurante Church: Igreja Restrooms: Casa de banho Street: Rua Swimming Pool: Piscina

Traveling Bus stop: Ponto de Ônibus Airport: Aeroporto Airplane: Avião Train Station: Estação Ferroviária

46

Train: Trem Subway Station: Estação de Metro Subway: Metrô Taxi: Táxi Taxi Stand: Ponto de táxi Car: Carro Parking: Estacionamento Rent a Car: Alugar um carro Departure: Partida Arrival: Chegada

Shopping Money: Dinheiro Coins: Moedas Credit card: Cartão de crédito Tax: Taxa Receipt: Recibo Expensive: Caro Cheap: Barato Open: Aberto Closed: Fechado Postcard: Cartão Postal Stamps: Selos Season Spring: Primavera Summer: Verão Fall: Outono Winter: Inverno

Eating Breakfast: Café da manhã Lunch: Almoço Dinner: Jantar Menu: Cardápio Waiter: Garçom Check/Bill: Conta Napkin: Guardanapo Glass: Copo Plate: Prato Fork: Garfo Knife: Faca Spoon: Colher Table: Mesa Chair: Cadeira

47

Rare: Mal-passado Medium: Ao ponto Well done: Bem-passado Bread: Pão

Directions Left: Esquerda Right: Direita Straight ahead: Em frente Up: Para cima Down: Para baixo Far: Longe Near: Perto

48

Weather and Clothing

Weather

Spring is a beautiful time of the year to be walking and biking through the Alentejo region of Portugal but it is hard to predict exactly what will happen in mid-May. The average temperature during the day is typically about 25°C / 77°F and dropping down a few degrees at night.

Suggested Dress

During the day when you are hiking and biking you will want to be as comfortable as possible. Shorts are perfectly acceptable.

It is always best to come prepared with layers that can come on or off as needed. And don’t forget to pack your rain gear and a small portable umbrella to have with you just in case.

For evenings you’ll want to get out of the shorts. Never do you have to really dress up, certainly a tie and jacket are not necessary unless you want to bring them along. Below is a breakdown of suggested dress.

For the evenings together we recommend:

Sunday – Welcome cocktails followed by dinner in the hotel garden. Nice casual with something to wrap in case it gets cool as the sun goes down.

Monday – Tasting dinner at the winery Quinta do Carmo. Casual chic. Look nice because we will be in an elegant setting.

Tuesday/Wednesday - Dinner at Fialho or at leisure. Nice casual but we will be in Evora. Plenty of cobbled streets…ladies please wear flat shoes this evening.

Thursday – Dinner at leisure. Whatever you like. Again, we will be in Evora.

Friday - Gala Final Dinner in the courtyard of the hotel’s gastronomic restaurant. Jacket with our without tie for the men and female equivalent.

49

Practical information

Currency The euro (€), the single European currency, became the official currency of most European countries in January 1, 1999. However, the euro didn't go into general circulation until early in 2002. Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar. At time of printing, February 2017 - €1.00 = US$1.08 or CDN$1.42.

Euros come in the following denominations: Coins of 1 cent, 2 cents, 5 cents, 10 cents, 20 cents, 50 cents, 1 euro and 2 euros. Bills of € 5.00, € 10.00, € 20.00, € 50.00, € 100.00, € 200.00 and € 500.00. Note than many merchants will not accept bills over € 50.00.

Credit Cards The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country so your withdrawal limit may not be the same as you are used to. VISA and MasterCard are generally welcome everywhere, American Express much less so due to its higher commission.

Tipping Tipping will be taken care of for you throughout the trip when we are together. So, the only time you will need to think about tipping is when having a drink or meal on your own.

Many restaurants and cafés add a service charge. Check the bill and see if it is service is included. If not, add something for the waiter. In a simple café we usually just round the bill up or leave a few Euros on the table. In a restaurant you should tip around 10%. If you take a taxi round up the bill or add up to 5%.

Drugstores

Drugstores called farmácia in Portuguese are designated by a green cross on a white background. They are generally open between 9 a.m. and 1 p.m. and again at 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday and 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Saturdays. Every farmácia displays in its window or on its door the address of the nearest pharmacy with a 24-hour service, and a list of those open until 10 p.m. Portuguese pharmacists are highly trained and can give medical advice and dispense drugs, such as antibiotics, that would be available only on prescription in many countries. Many speak English.

50

Hotel and Staff Contact Information

Hotel Convento do Espinheiro Evora +351 266 788 200

Juliet Cameron +33 682 34 69 48

Nick Clements +33 680 70 12 66

Santiago Diez +33 637 90 81 98

Hamish Fraser +33 621 97 13 74

Tom Hamilton +33 684 20 34 21

51

Participants List

Walid Aly

Nicole and Sean Aye

Anne Aylmer

Lisa Bahrey and Greg Bozzer

Sandy Baigent and Paul Glover

Jane Bautista and Michael Brady

Rachel Barton and Steven Kraus

Andrea and Jan-Hinrich Baumert

Elma Buckley

Hance Clarke

Rosemary Craen

Daniel Cuillerier

Michael Dishart

Grace Donnelly

Stephanie Fisher and Andrew Meikle

Gloria Macklin and Raymond Forse

Daniel Friedlander

Lila and Mark Friedlander

Ruth Gingell-Potts

Susan Greenbloom

Jarmila and Paul Kim

52

Charles Knapp

Kathleen Leavitt and Johan Suyderhoud

Robin and Jerry Lerman

Kiersten Luce and Tim Aye

Patricia Murphy

Raveen Pal and Harminder Sandhu Katherine Palmieri

Amy and Sebastien Pichoff

Lyn and TJ Rasmussen

Alison Ross

Grace Shih and John McQueen

Mont Stern

Lesley and Michael Sullivan

Margaretha and Johannes Van der Vyver

Winnie Wong

Doreen Yee and Jordan Tarrshis

53

N o t e s

54