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The Floral Notes of Fragrance

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The Floral Notes of Fragrance Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. www.perfumerbook.com New Jersey - USA 2012 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill “To my late much loved father Ray and recently late beloved mother Helen Roberta without them non of this work would have been possible” II THE FLORAL NOTES OF FRAGRANCE © This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Brechbill, Glen O. The Floral Notes of Fragrance / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 349 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # Copyright © 2012 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance About the Book The Floral Notes of Fragrance is I estimate conservatively that I knowledge of fragrance ingredi- basically about the flowers used in spent at least five years of time ents. Would have made a fine eval- fragrance creation. The essential reading and assembling this early uator, or marketing assistant. oils that represent the flowers are manuscript. I wasn’t informed then However, not possessing any expe- few. Most are re produced synthet- that the only way to become a per- rience in those areas no one would ically. Others are represented by fumer in the fragrance industry was consider me for one of those roles absolutes and concrete specially to apprentice under a nose for six since women often fill them. prepared materials, and are too years. After my departure I found expensive to use other then in trace spreading my work around seeking I educated myself in the art by read- amounts within a formula. The employment was deemed thievery ing many books written by per- International Fragrance Assoc- by the major houses. fumers. Not doing this under the iation bans some, and their use is tuitalage of a nose I found out that I severely restricted. Since my work was not done had completely wasted several through an officially sponsored years of effort. This book is dedicated to my much training program I was black listed. beloved mother Helen Roberta No one would consider the fact that I was computer illiterate twenty Brechbill who died at home on my former employer was engaged years ago. While polishing my ear- Thursday, June 28, 2012 at the age in a massive swindle through out- lier notes I researched many of the of 95 and seven months. She was a side consultants. That in it self was ingredients on the www. Soon I lovely woman, best friend confi- perfectly fine. Duplicating, and found many new fragrance houses dant with a superb eye to detail. stealing of other artists ideas goes including a wide range of aromatic She loved flowers and gardening, on every day in this industry that ingredients. After completing my and will be deeply missed. too is ok. first book it took several years of work off, and on to complete my My career in the fragrance industry Soon at the age of 40 I found second. was sabotaged close to twenty myself on the outside looking in. years ago. I was promoted to a jun- No fragrance house would higher As my skill and knowledge of desk- ior perfumer position. It was a ruse me in any capacity or role. I was top publishing grew so did my to gain a copy of my first book of over educated to be a laboratory desire to create new books. One notes then in rough form. Later it technician, compounder, and many idea led to another and another. No became A Reference Book on other positions. I possessed a fan- one in the fragrance industry Fragrance Ingredients. tastic memory courtesy of my including the noses themselves will mother including a well-rounded ever admit that my work is good. I 3 Glen O. Brechbill am much satisfied knowing my most have never read a single book don't want to pay for anything. work is respected, and has gained a on the subject. If they were given a This is the reason why I have set wide range of fans in the worlds box of aroma chemcials many my books at 1/2 view along with fragrance community. couldn’t identify a single aromatic disabling the copying and printing ingredient nor put a simple compo- function of each of my manu- Fragrance is a passion, and I love sition together. Besides being over scripts. The nature of a pdf file is creating the books. However, I hate paid they make a living at cri- that it can be copied. at the same time the way the indus- tiquing others artistic efforts. This try works particularly with regards has to be galling to the perfumers All of my books are dedicated to to the recruiting of new artists. who spend years learning their pro- my parents both of whom have fession. passed away. Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own schools. I doubt very It is my definite opinion in the not much whether essential oils are too distant future that the noses included in the curriculum. For the will eventually be replaced by AI most part natural materials have computers. Perfumers today no been banned by the regulatory longer create formulas by hand amendments issued by ( IFRA ). The with a piece of paper. Instead ideas big five through monopolisitic tat- are worked out through a software ics control 80 % of the market are program. Costs of the materials are slowly destroying the heart of the at the heart of the creative effort, art which are natural materials. and this too is slowly killing the creativity. An individual selected for one of these coveted trainee spots must Shortly after my departure early in feel truly blessed believing they 1994 my former employer realized have a secure future. They fail to I left them nothing of value. take into account that many mil- Through bad mouthing me they lions of perfume formulas or com- made certain I would never gain positions have already been creat- another full time job. I lost out on ed, and are on hand in massive data a well-paid career including a fam- bases. How does one create some- ily of my own. thing new when in reality there is nothing new to create? Few noses will ever write a single book on fragrance. When they Another draw back being employed depart this world for the next their by the major five is the constant knowledge and wisdom dies with criticism of your work by creative them. They leave behind many fra- directors, evaluators, marketing, grances, but little knowledge on sales, management, customers, and how one was created. test panels. I don't know whether there is a mar- All of these folks are experts, and ket for my work on the www. Folks 4 The Floral Notes of Fragrance Index Copyright 2 About The Book 3 - 4 Index 5 - 7 Essential Oil Map of the World 8 International Directory By Country & House 9 - 14 The Flowers: 15 - 23 Floral Materials 24 - 31 Acacia 32 - 35 Apple Blossom 36 - 40 Boronia 41 - 43 Broom 44 - 45 Cananga 46 - 47 Carnation 48 - 50 Cassie 51 - 52 Champaca Abs. ( Magnola ) 53 Chrysanthemum 54 5 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill Freesia 55 Gardenia 56 - 59 Heliotrope 60 - 61 Honeysuckle 62 - 64 Hyacinth 65 Iris 66 - 69 Jasmin 70 - 73 Jonquil ( Narcissus ) 74 - 76 Lilac 77 - 78 Lily 79 - 81 Magnolia 82 - 85 Mimosa 86 - 87 Muguet ( Lily of the Valley ) 88 - 89 Narcissus ( Jonquil ) 90 - 92 Orange Flower 93 Orris 94 osmanthus 95 - 96 Peony 97 - 99 Reseda 100 Rose 101 - 105 Tuberose 106 6 The Floral Notes of Fragrance Violet 107 - 110 Ylang Ylang 111 - 112 BOOK # 1 ( A - H ) 113 - 214 BOOK # 2 ( I - Z ) 215 - 327 Floral Fragrance Chemicals 328 - 347 Bibliography 348 - 350 7 Glen O. Brechbill A World of Fragrance’s 8 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance International Directory by Country & House Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House Manuscript # 1 ( A - H ) Fiveash Data Management Fleurchem, Inc. Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z ) Fleurin, Inc. Flexitral, Inc. North America Florachem Corporation Florida Chemical Company, Inc. Canada Florida Worldwide Citrus Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc. The Spice Trader Good Scents Company United States Gorlin & Company Graham Chemical Corporation Alfa Chem American Society of Perfumers I.P. Callison & Sons Aromatic International LLC Innospec Inc. Artiste Flavor / Essence International Flavors & Fragrances Astral Extracts J & E Sozio, Inc. Bedoukian Research, Inc. Joint American Ventures in China Bell Flavors & Fragrances Berje Inc. MelChem Distribution Millennium Chemicals Carrubba Inc. Central States Chemical Marketing Natural Resourcing Champon Vanilla Norwest Ingredients Citrus & Allied Cookson & Hunt International Co. Oliganic Creative Fragrances Ltd. Penta Manufacturing DMH Ingredients Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils Polarome International 9 Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill Prima Fleur Brazil Rosetta Enterprises LLC Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda. Sarcom Inc. J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda.
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