The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Glen O. Brechbill

Fragrance Books Inc.

www.perfumerbook.com

New Jersey - USA

2012

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

“To my late much loved father Ray and recently late beloved mother Helen Roberta without them non of this work would have been possible”

THE FLORAL NOTES OF FRAGRANCE ©

This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©.

Library of Congress

Brechbill, Glen O. The Floral Notes of Fragrance / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 349 pgs. 1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title.

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PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

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First Edition

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About the Book

The Floral Notes of Fragrance is I estimate conservatively that I knowledge of fragrance ingredi- basically about the flowers used in spent at least five years of time ents. Would have made a fine eval- fragrance creation. The essential reading and assembling this early uator, or marketing assistant. oils that represent the flowers are manuscript. I wasn’t informed then However, not possessing any expe- few. Most are re produced synthet- that the only way to become a per- rience in those areas no one would ically. Others are represented by fumer in the fragrance industry was consider me for one of those roles absolutes and concrete specially to apprentice under a nose for six since women often fill them. prepared materials, and are too years. After my departure I found expensive to use other then in trace spreading my work around seeking I educated myself in the art by read- amounts within a formula. The employment was deemed thievery ing many books written by per- International Fragrance Assoc- by the major houses. fumers. Not doing this under the iation bans some, and their use is tuitalage of a nose I found out that I severely restricted. Since my work was not done had completely wasted several through an officially sponsored years of effort. This book is dedicated to my much training program I was black listed. beloved mother Helen Roberta No one would consider the fact that I was computer illiterate twenty Brechbill who died at home on my former employer was engaged years ago. While polishing my ear- Thursday, June 28, 2012 at the age in a massive swindle through out- lier notes I researched many of the of 95 and seven months. She was a side consultants. That in it self was ingredients on the www. Soon I lovely woman, best friend confi- perfectly fine. Duplicating, and found many new fragrance houses dant with a superb eye to detail. stealing of other artists ideas goes including a wide range of aromatic She loved flowers and gardening, on every day in this industry that ingredients. After completing my and will be deeply missed. too is ok. first book it took several years of work off, and on to complete my My career in the fragrance industry Soon at the age of 40 I found second. was sabotaged close to twenty myself on the outside looking in. years ago. I was promoted to a jun- No fragrance house would higher As my skill and knowledge of desk- ior perfumer position. It was a ruse me in any capacity or role. I was top publishing grew so did my to gain a copy of my first book of over educated to be a laboratory desire to create new books. One notes then in rough form. Later it technician, compounder, and many idea led to another and another. No became A Reference Book on other positions. I possessed a fan- one in the fragrance industry Fragrance Ingredients. tastic memory courtesy of my including the noses themselves will mother including a well-rounded ever admit that my work is good. I

3 Glen O. Brechbill am much satisfied knowing my most have never read a single book don't want to pay for anything. work is respected, and has gained a on the subject. If they were given a This is the reason why I have set wide range of fans in the worlds box of aroma chemcials many my books at 1/2 view along with fragrance community. couldn’t identify a single aromatic disabling the copying and printing ingredient nor put a simple compo- function of each of my manu- Fragrance is a passion, and I love sition together. Besides being over scripts. The nature of a pdf file is creating the books. However, I hate paid they make a living at cri- that it can be copied. at the same time the way the indus- tiquing others artistic efforts. This try works particularly with regards has to be galling to the perfumers All of my books are dedicated to to the recruiting of new artists. who spend years learning their pro- my parents both of whom have fession. passed away. Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own schools. I doubt very It is my definite opinion in the not much whether essential oils are too distant future that the noses included in the curriculum. For the will eventually be replaced by AI most part natural materials have computers. Perfumers today no been banned by the regulatory longer create formulas by hand amendments issued by ( IFRA ). The with a piece of paper. Instead ideas big five through monopolisitic tat- are worked out through a software ics control 80 % of the market are program. Costs of the materials are slowly destroying the heart of the at the heart of the creative effort, art which are natural materials. and this too is slowly killing the creativity. An individual selected for one of these coveted trainee spots must Shortly after my departure early in feel truly blessed believing they 1994 my former employer realized have a secure future. They fail to I left them nothing of value. take into account that many mil- Through bad mouthing me they lions of perfume formulas or com- made certain I would never gain positions have already been creat- another full time job. I lost out on ed, and are on hand in massive data a well-paid career including a fam- bases. How does one create some- ily of my own. thing new when in reality there is nothing new to create? Few noses will ever write a single book on fragrance. When they Another draw back being employed depart this world for the next their by the major five is the constant knowledge and wisdom dies with criticism of your work by creative them. They leave behind many fra- directors, evaluators, marketing, grances, but little knowledge on sales, management, customers, and how one was created. test panels. I don't know whether there is a mar- All of these folks are experts, and ket for my work on the www. Folks

4 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Index

About The Book 3 - 4

Index 5 - 7

Essential Oil Map of the World 8

International Directory By Country & House 9 - 14

The Flowers: 15 - 23

Floral Materials 24 - 31

Acacia 32 - 35

Apple Blossom 36 - 40

Boronia 41 - 43

Broom 44 - 45

Cananga 46 - 47

Carnation 48 - 50

Cassie 51 - 52

Champaca Abs. ( Magnola ) 53

Chrysanthemum 54

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Freesia 55

Gardenia 56 - 59

Heliotrope 60 - 61

Honeysuckle 62 - 64

Hyacinth 65

Iris 66 - 69

Jasmin 70 - 73

Jonquil ( Narcissus ) 74 - 76

Lilac 77 - 78

Lily 79 - 81

Magnolia 82 - 85

Mimosa 86 - 87

Muguet ( Lily of the Valley ) 88 - 89

Narcissus ( Jonquil ) 90 - 92

Orange Flower 93

Orris 94 osmanthus 95 - 96

Peony 97 - 99

Reseda 100

Rose 101 - 105

Tuberose 106

6 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Violet 107 - 110

Ylang Ylang 111 - 112

BOOK # 1 ( A - H ) 113 - 214

BOOK # 2 ( I - Z ) 215 - 327

Floral Fragrance Chemicals 328 - 347

Bibliography 348 - 350

7 Glen O. Brechbill

A World of Fragrance’s

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International Directory by Country & House

Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House

Manuscript # 1 ( A - H ) Fiveash Data Management Fleurchem, Inc. Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z ) Fleurin, Inc. Flexitral, Inc. North America Florachem Corporation Florida Chemical Company, Inc. Canada Florida Worldwide Citrus Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc. The Spice Trader Good Scents Company United States Gorlin & Company Graham Chemical Corporation Alfa Chem American Society of Perfumers I.P. Callison & Sons Aromatic International LLC Innospec Inc. Artiste Flavor / Essence International Flavors & Fragrances Astral Extracts J & E Sozio, Inc. Bedoukian Research, Inc. Joint American Ventures in China Bell Flavors & Fragrances Berje Inc. MelChem Distribution Millennium Chemicals Carrubba Inc. Central States Chemical Marketing Natural Resourcing Champon Vanilla Norwest Ingredients Citrus & Allied Cookson & Hunt International Co. Oliganic Creative Fragrances Ltd. Penta Manufacturing DMH Ingredients Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils Polarome International 9

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Prima Fleur Brazil

Rosetta Enterprises LLC Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda.

Sarcom Inc. J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda. Science Lab Sensient Technologies Corporation Petit Marie Sigma Aldrich Spectrum Chemicals Rai Ingredients Sundial Fragrances & Flavors Sunrose Aromatics Europe

Texarome Belgium Treatt USA Inc. Trisenx, Inc. Synaco Group

Uhe Company, Inc. Bulgaria Ungerer & Company Vesselino Trading Company Vigon International, Inc. Denmark Walsh, John D., Company, Inc. Wambesco Gmbh Central America France Mexico A.N.E.C. Esencias y Materiales Lozmat Adrian Industries SAS Albert Vielle SA Tecnaal Group Aromatic Collection Aromax South America Axxence SARL

Argentina BFA Laboratories Barosyl S.A. Esarco Biolandes Parfumerie Euma Charabot & Company Inc. Fritzsche SAICA Clos D’Aguzon

San Miguel Agici y F Diffusions Aromatiques Dulcos Trading

Exaflor 10

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H.Reynaud & Fils Hungary

IPRA Fragrances Silvestris & Szilas Ltd. Interchim Italy Laboratoire Monique Remy Baller s.r.l. Mane SA Moraflor Produits Aromatiques Capua s.r.l. Muller & Koster Citroflor di G.

PCAS Espira S.p.A Payan Bertrand SA Prodarom Farotti Essences srl Prodasynth Moelhausen S.P.A. Rhodia Organics Robertet SA Portugal

SIPA A. Ch. Berthier Kruetz Helmut Sovimpex Symarome Spain

Germany Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta

Basf Cami de Fontainilles

Dullberg Konzentra Gmbh Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a.

Eramex Aromatics Gmbh Lluche Essence

Frey & Lau Gmbh Ventos, Ernesto S.A.

Lothar-Streck Switzerland

Paul Kaders GmbH Essencia, Aetherische Oele AG

Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh Firmenich Symrise GmbH & Co. KG Givaudan Fragrance Corporation Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG Puressence Wuresten Inc.

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The Netherlands Fruitarom Industries

Brighten Colorchem, B.V. Nardev

Flavodor Asia

PFW Aroma Chemicals China

United Kingdom China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd. China Perfumer A & E Connock Ltd. Chinessence Ltd. Augustus OIls. Ld. HC Biochem British Society of Perfumers Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Co. Buckton Home Page Ltd. Shanghai M & U International De Monchy Aromatics, Inc. Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co. Earth Oil Plantations Ltd. Hong Kong FD Copeland & Sons Ltd. Fine Chemical Trading Naradev Furest Day Lawson O’Laughlin Industries Global Essence Ltd. India Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd. Amen Organics JC Buck Ltd. Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Anupam Industries Lionel Hitchen Ltd. B.S. Industries Quality Analysis Bansal Aroma

SRS Aromatics Ltd. FFC Aroma Flowersynth Venus Enterprises GMPCT Mediterranean Gyran Flavours

Israel Hermani Ex-Imp Corporation Hindustan Mint & Agro Products Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. Indian Spices 12

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Kanta House Zeon Corporation Katyani Exorts Krupa Scientific Korea Kuber Impex Ltd. Castrading Narain Terpene & Allied Chemical M.X.D. Enterprise System Organica Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Nepal P.P. Sheth & Co. Petitgara Chemicals Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Premier Chemical Corporation Privi Organics Ld. Singapore

Raj Aromatics Aroma Corporation Taytonn Pte Ltd.

SAT Group Sri Lanka Seema International Shreeji Aroma EOAS International Som Santi House Some Extracts Thailand

Tadimetry Aromatics Pvt Ltd. Thailand Institute of Science Thakker Group Turkey Ultra International Limited U.K. Aromatic & Chemicals Oregano

Indonesia Viet Nam

Djasula Wangi Enter Oil

Haldin Australia

Indesso Australian Botanical Products

Japan Cosmark

Basf Japan Ltd. Perfume & Flavor Manufacturers Peter Jarvis Cosmetic Develop. Kao Corporation W & W Australia Pty Ltd. Takasago International Corporation

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Africa

Africa Trade

Egypt

A.Fakhry & Company

Fayyum Gharbya Aromatic

Kato Aromatic S.A.E.

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Flower

A flower, sometimes known as a Morphology Gynoecium (from Greek gynaikos bloom or blossom, is the reproduc- oikia: woman's house): the inner- tive structure found in flowering A stereotypical flower consists of most whorl of a flower, consisting plants (plants of the division four kinds of structures attached to of one or more units called carpels. Magnoliophyta, also called the tip of a short stalk. Each of The carpel or multiple fused carpels angiosperms). The biological func- these kinds of parts is arranged in a form a hollow structure called an tion of a flower is to effect repro- whorl on the receptacle. The four ovary, which produces ovules inter- duction, usually by providing a main whorls (starting from the base nally. Ovules are megasporangia mechanism for the union of sperm of the flower or lowest node and and they in turn produce megas- with eggs. Flowers may facilitate working upwards) are as follows: pores by meiosis which develop into outcrossing (fusion of sperm and female gametophytes. These give eggs from different individuals in a Calyx: the outermost whorl consist- rise to egg cells. The gynoecium of population) or allow selfing (fusion ing of units called sepals; these are a flower is also described using an of sperm and egg from the same typically green and enclose the rest alternative terminology wherein the flower). Some flowers produce of the flower in the bud stage, how- structure one sees in the innermost diaspores without fertilization ever, they can be absent or promi- whorl (consisting of an ovary, style (parthenocarpy). Flowers contain nent and petal-like in some species. and stigma) is called a pistil. A pis- sporangia and are the site where til may consist of a single carpel or gametophytes develop. Flowers Corolla: the next whorl toward the a number of carpels fused together. give rise to fruit and seeds. Many apex, composed of units called The sticky tip of the pistil, the stig- flowers have evolved to be attrac- petals, which are typically thin, soft ma, is the receptor of pollen. The tive to animals, so as to cause them and colored to attract animals that supportive stalk, the style, becomes to be vectors for the transfer of help the process of pollination. the pathway for pollen tubes to grow pollen. from pollen grains adhering to the Androecium (from Greek andros stigma. In addition to facilitating the repro- oikia: man's house): the next whorl duction of flowering plants, flowers (sometimes multiplied into several Although the arrangement described have long been admired and used whorls), consisting of units called above is considered "typical", plant by humans to beautify their envi- stamens. Stamens consist of two species show a wide variation in flo- ronment, and also as objects of parts: a stalk called a filament, ral structure. These modifications romance, ritual, religion, medicine topped by an anther where pollen is have significance in the evolution of and as a source of food. produced by meiosis and eventual- flowering plants and are used exten- ly dispersed. sively by botanists to establish rela-

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill tionships among plant species. is bilabiate. Flowers with connate structure of a plant family rather petals or sepals may have various than a particular species. The fol- Christmas Lily (Lilium longiflo- shaped corolla or calyx including: lowing representations are used: rum). 1. Stigma, 2. Style, 3. campanulate, funnelform, tubular, Stamens, 4. Filament, 5. Petal urceolate, salverform or rotate. Ca = calyx (sepal whorl; e. g. Ca5 = 5 sepals) The four main parts of a flower are Many flowers have a symmetry. generally defined by their positions When the perianth is bisected Co = corolla (petal whorl; e. g., on the receptacle and not by their through the central axis from any Co3(x) = petals some multiple of function. Many flowers lack some point, symmetrical halves are pro- three ) parts or parts may be modified into duced, forming a radial symmetry. other functions and/or look like These flowers are also known to be Z = add if zygomorphic (e. g., what is typically another part. In actinomorphic or regular, e.g. rose CoZ6 = zygomorphic with 6 petals) some families, like Ranunculaceae, or trillium. When flowers are the petals are greatly reduced and in bisected and produce only one line A = androecium (whorl of stamens; many species the sepals are colorful that produces symmetrical halves e. g., A? = many stamens) and petal-like. Other flowers have the flower is said to be irregular or modified stamens that are petal- zygomorphic, e.g. snapdragon or G = gynoecium (carpel or carpels; like, the double flowers of Peonies most orchids. e. g., G1 = monocarpous) and Roses are mostly petaloid stamens.[1] Flowers show great varia- Flowers may be directly attached to x: to represent a "variable number" tion and plant scientists describe the plant at their base (sessile—the this variation in a systematic way to supporting stalk or stem is highly : to represent "many" identify and distinguish species. reduced or absent). The stem or stalk subtending a flower is called a A floral formula would appear Specific terminology is used to peduncle. If a peduncle supports something like this: describe flowers and their parts. more than one flower, the stems Many flower parts are fused togeth- connecting each flower to the main Ca5Co5A10 - ?G1 er; fused parts originating from the axis are called pedicels. The apex same whorl are connate, while of a flowering stem forms a termi- Several additional symbols are fused parts originating from differ- nal swelling which is called the sometimes used (see Key to Floral ent whorls are adnate, parts that are torus or receptacle. Formulas). not fused are free. When petals are fused into a tube or ring that falls Floral Formula Inflorescence away as a single unit, they are sym- petalous (also called Floral diagram for the genus The familiar calla lily is not a single gamopetalous.) Connate petals may Nepenthes flower. It is actually an inflores- have distinctive regions: the cylin- cence of tiny flowers pressed drical base is the tube, the expand- A floral formula is a way to repre- together on a central stalk that is ing region is the throat and the flar- sent the structure of a flower using surrounded by a large petal-like ing outer region is the limb. A sym- specific letters, numbers, and sym- bract. petalous flower, with bilateral symbols. Typically, a general formula metry with an upper and lower lip, will be used to represent the flower In those species that have more

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance than one flower on an axis, the col- temperature and photoperiod ment lective cluster of flowers is termed changes. Many perennial and most an inflorescence. Some inflores- biennial plants require vernaliza- The molecular control of floral cences are composed of many small tion to flower. The molecular inter- organ identity determination is fair- flowers arranged in a formation that pretation of these signals is through ly well understood. In a simple resembles a single flower. The the transmission of a complex sig- model, three gene activities interact common example of this is most nal known as florigen, which in a combinatorial manner to deter- members of the very large compos- involves a variety of genes, includ- mine the developmental identities ite (Asteraceae) group. A single ing CONSTANS, FLOWERING of the organ primordia within the daisy or sunflower, for example, is LOCUS C and FLOWERING floral meristem. These gene func- not a flower but a flower head an LOCUS T. Florigen is produced in tions are called A, B and C-gene inflorescence composed of numer- the leaves in reproductively favor- functions. In the first floral whorl ous flowers (or florets). able conditions and acts in buds and only A-genes are expressed, lead- growing tips to induce a number of ing to the formation of sepals. In An inflorescence may include spe- different physiological and mor- the second whorl both A- and B- cialized stems and modified leaves phological changes. The first step is genes are expressed, leading to the known as bracts. the transformation of the vegetative formation of petals. In the third stem primordia into floral primor- whorl, B and C genes interact to Development dia. This occurs as biochemical form stamens and in the center of changes take place to change cellu- the flower C-genes alone give rise A flower is a modified stem tip lar differentiation of leaf, bud and to carpels. The model is based upon with compressed internodes, bear- stem tissues into tissue that will studies of homeotic mutants in ing structures that are highly modi- grow into the reproductive organs. Arabidopsis thaliana and snapdrag- fied leaves. In essence, a flower Growth of the central part of the on, Antirrhinum majus. For exam- develops on a modified shoot or stem tip stops or flattens out and the ple, when there is a loss of B-gene axis from a determinate apical sides develop protuberances in a function, mutant flowers are pro- meristem (determinate meaning the whorled or spiral fashion around duced with sepals in the first whorl axis grows to a set size). the outside of the stem end. These as usual, but also in the second protuberances develop into the whorl instead of the normal petal Flowering Transition sepals, petals, stamens, and carpels. formation. In the third whorl the Once this process begins, in most lack of B function but presence of The transition to flowering is one of plants, it cannot be reversed and the C-function mimics the fourth the major phase changes that a stems develop flowers, even if the whorl, leading to the formation of plant makes during its life cycle. initial start of the flower formation carpels also in the third whorl. See The transition must take place at a event was dependent of some envi- also The ABC Model of Flower time that is favorable for fertiliza- ronmental cue. Once the process Development. tion and the formation of seeds, begins, even if that cue is removed hence ensuring maximal reproduc- the stem will continue to develop a Most genes central in this model tive success. To meet these needs a flower. belong to the MADS-box genes and plant is able to interpret important are transcription factors that regu- endogenous and environmental Organ Development late the expression of the genes spe- cues such as changes in levels of cific for each floral organ. plant hormones and seasonable The ABC model of flower develop-

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Floral Function Flowering plants usually face tant (such as nectar, pollen, or a selective pressure to optimize the mate). In pursuing this attractant An example of a "perfect flower", transfer of their pollen, and this is from many flowers of the same this Crateva religiosa flower has typically reflected in the morpholo- species, the pollinator transfers both stamens (outer ring) and a pis- gy of the flowers and the behaviour pollen to the stigmas arranged with til (center). of the plants. Pollen may be trans- equally pointed precision of all of ferred between plants via a number the flowers it visits. The principal purpose of a flower is of 'vectors'. Some plants make use the reproduction of the individual of abiotic vectors namely wind Anemophilous flowers use the and the species. All flowering (anemophily) or, much less com- wind to move pollen from one plants are heterosporous, producing monly, water (hydrophily). Others flower to the next. Examples two types of spores. Microspores use biotic vectors including insects include grasses, birch trees, rag- are produced by meiosis inside (entomophily), birds (ornithophi- weed and maples. They have no anthers while megaspores are pro- ly), bats (chiropterophily) or other need to attract pollinators and duced inside ovules, inside an animals. Some plants make use of therefore tend not to be "showy" ovary. In fact, anthers typically multiple vectors, but many are flowers. Male and female reproduc- consist of four microsporangia and highly specialised. tive organs are generally found in an ovule is an integumented megas- separate flowers, the male flowers porangium. Both types of spores Cleistogamous flowers are self pol- having a number of long filaments develop into gametophytes inside linated, after which they may or terminating in exposed stamens, sporangia. As with all het- may not open. Many Viola and and the female flowers having long, erosporous plants, the gameto- some Salvia species are known to feather-like stigmas. Whereas the phytes also develop inside the have these types of flowers. pollen of animal-pollinated flowers spores (are endosporic). tends to be large-grained, sticky, The flowers of plants that make use and rich in protein (another In the majority of species, individ- of biotic pollen vectors commonly "reward" for pollinators), ual flowers have both functional have glands called nectaries that act anemophilous flower pollen is usu- carpels and stamens. These flowers as an incentive for animals to visit ally small-grained, very light, and are described by botanists as being the flower. Some flowers have pat- of little nutritional value to animals. perfect or bisexual. Some flowers terns, called nectar guides, that lack one or the other reproductive show pollinators where to look for Pollination organ and called imperfect or uni- nectar. Flowers also attract pollina- sexual If unisex flowers are found tors by scent and color. Still other Grains of pollen sticking to this bee on the same individual plant but in flowers use mimicry to attract pol- will be transferred to the next different locations, the species is linators. Some species of orchids, flower it visits said to be monoecious. If each type for example, produce flowers of unisex flower is found only on resembling female bees in color, The primary purpose of a flower is separate individuals, the plant is shape, and scent. Flowers are also reproduction. Since the flowers are dioecious. specialized in shape and have an the reproductive organs of plant, arrangement of the stamens that they mediate the joining of the Flower Specialization and ensures that pollen grains are trans- sperm, contained within pollen, to Pollination ferred to the bodies of the pollinator the ovules contained in the ovary. when it lands in search of its attrac- Pollination is the movement of

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance pollen from the anthers to the stig- that attract animals looking for between two broad groups of polli- ma. The joining of the sperm to the nutritious nectar. Birds and bees nation methods: ovules is called fertilization. have color vision, enabling them to Normally pollen is moved from one seek out "colorful" flowers. Some Entomophilous: flowers attract and plant to another, but many plants flowers have patterns, called nectar use insects, bats, birds or other ani- are able to self pollinate. The fertil- guides, that show pollinators where mals to transfer pollen from one ized ovules produce seeds that are to look for nectar; they may be vis- flower to the next. Often they are the next generation. Sexual repro- ible only under ultraviolet light, specialized in shape and have an duction produces genetically which is visible to bees and some arrangement of the stamens that unique offspring, allowing for other insects. Flowers also attract ensures that pollen grains are trans- adaptation. Flowers have specific pollinators by scent and some of ferred to the bodies of the pollinator designs which encourages the those scents are pleasant to our when it lands in search of its attrac- transfer of pollen from one plant to sense of smell. Not all flower tant (such as nectar, pollen, or a another of the same species. Many scents are appealing to humans; a mate). In pursuing this attractant plants are dependent upon external number of flowers are pollinated by from many flowers of the same factors for pollination, including: insects that are attracted to rotten species, the pollinator transfers wind and animals, and especially flesh and have flowers that smell pollen to the stigmas—arranged insects. Even large animals such as like dead animals, often called with equally pointed precision—of birds, bats, and pygmy possums can Carrion flowers, including all of the flowers it visits. Many be employed. The period of time Rafflesia, the titan arum, and the flowers rely on simple proximity during which this process can take North American pawpaw (Asimina between flower parts to ensure pol- place (the flower is fully expanded triloba). Flowers pollinated by lination. Others, such as the and functional) is called anthesis. night visitors, including bats and Sarracenia or lady-slipper orchids, moths, are likely to concentrate on have elaborate designs to ensure Attraction Methods scent to attract pollinators and most pollination while preventing self- such flowers are white. pollination. A Bee orchid has evolved over many generations to better mimic a Still other flowers use mimicry to Anemophilous: flowers use the female bee to attract male bees as attract pollinators. Some species of wind to move pollen from one pollinators. orchids, for example, produce flower to the next, examples flowers resembling female bees in include the grasses, Birch trees, Plants cannot move from one loca- color, shape, and scent. Male bees Ragweed and Maples. They have tion to another, thus many flowers move from one such flower to no need to attract pollinators and have evolved to attract animals to another in search of a mate. therefore tend not to be "showy" transfer pollen between individuals flowers. Whereas the pollen of in dispersed populations. Flowers Pollination Mechanism entomophilous flowers tends to be that are insect-pollinated are called large-grained, sticky, and rich in entomophilous; literally "insect- The pollination mechanism protein (another "reward" for polli- loving" in Greek. They can be high- employed by a plant depends on nators), anemophilous flower ly modified along with the pollinat- what method of pollination is uti- pollen is usually small-grained, ing insects by co-evolution. lized. very light, and of little nutritional Flowers commonly have glands value to insects, though it may still called nectaries on various parts Most flowers can be divided be gathered in times of dearth.

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Honeybees and bumblebees active- chance of producing seeds but lim- and conifers. ly gather anemophilous corn its genetic variation. The extreme (maize) pollen, though it is of little case of self-fertilization occurs in The earliest fossil of a flowering value to them. flowers that always self-fertilize, plant, Archaefructus liaoningensis, such as many dandelions. is dated about 125 million years Some flowers are self pollinated Conversely, many species of plants old. Several groups of extinct gym- and use flowers that never open or have ways of preventing self-fertil- nosperms, particularly seed ferns, are self pollinated before the flow- ization. Unisexual male and female have been proposed as the ances- ers open, these flowers are called flowers on the same plant may not tors of flowering plants but there is cleistogamous. Many Viola species appear or mature at the same time, no continuous fossil evidence and some Salvia have these types of or pollen from the same plant may showing exactly how flowers flowers. be incapable of fertilizing its evolved. ovules. The latter flower types, Flower-Pollinator Relationships which have chemical barriers to The apparently sudden appearance their own pollen, are referred to as of relatively modern flowers in the Many flowers have close relation- self-sterile or self-incompatible fossil record posed such a problem ships with one or a few specific (see also: Plant sexuality). for the theory of evolution that it pollinating organisms. Many flow- was called an "abominable mys- ers, for example, attract only one Evolution of Flowers tery" by Charles Darwin. Recently specific species of insect, and discovered angiosperm fossils such therefore rely on that insect for suc- Archaefructus liaoningensis, one of as Archaefructus, along with fur- cessful reproduction. This close the earliest known flowering plants ther discoveries of fossil gym- relationship is often given as an Amborella trichopoda, the sister nosperms, suggest how angiosperm example of coevolution, as the group to the rest of the flowering characteristics may have been flower and pollinator are thought to plants acquired in a series of steps. have developed together over a long period of time to match each While land plants have existed for Recent DNA analysis (molecular other's needs. about 425 million years, the first systematics) shows that Amborella ones reproduced by a simple adap- trichopoda, found on the Pacific This close relationship compounds tation of their aquatic counterparts: island of New Caledonia, is the sis- the negative effects of extinction. spores. In the sea, plants and some ter group to the rest of the flower- The extinction of either member in animals can simply scatter out ing plants, and morphological stud- such a relationship would mean genetic clones of themselves to ies suggest that it has features almost certain extinction of the float away and grow elsewhere. which may have been characteristic other member as well. Some endan- This is how early plants repro- of the earliest flowering plants. gered plant species are so because duced. But plants soon evolved of shrinking pollinator populations. methods of protecting these copies The general assumption is that the to deal with drying out and other function of flowers, from the start, Fertilization and Dispersal abuse which is even more likely on was to involve animals in the repro- land than in the sea. The protection duction process. Some flowers with both stamens became the seed, though it had not and a pistil are capable of self-fer- yet evolved the flower. Early seed- Pollen can be scattered without tilization, which does increase the bearing plants include the ginkgo bright colors and obvious shapes,

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance which would therefore be a liabili- organisms, flowers proved to be an er, with a much more specific num- ty, using the plant's resources, unusually effective means of pro- ber and design, and with either spe- unless they provide some other duction, spreading (whatever their cific sexes per flower or plant, or at benefit. One proposed reason for actual origin) to become the domi- least "ovary inferior". the sudden, fully developed appear- nant form of land plant life. ance of flowers is that they evolved Flower evolution continues to the in an isolated setting like an island, While there is only hard proof of present day; modern flowers have or chain of islands, where the plants such flowers existing about 130 been so profoundly influenced by bearing them were able to develop million years ago, there is some cir- humans that many of them cannot a highly specialized relationship cumstantial evidence that they did be pollinated in nature. Many mod- with some specific animal (a wasp, exist up to 250 million years ago. A ern, domesticated flowers used to for example), the way many island chemical used by plants to defend be simple weeds, which only species develop today. their flowers, oleanane, has been sprouted when the ground was dis- detected in fossil plants that old, turbed. Some of them tended to This symbiotic relationship, with a including gigantopterids, which grow with human crops, and the hypothetical wasp bearing pollen evolved at that time and bear many prettiest did not get plucked from one plant to another much the of the traits of modern, flowering because of their beauty, developing way fig wasps do today, could have plants, though they are not known a dependence upon and special eventually resulted in both the to be flowering plants themselves, adaptation to human affection. plant(s) and their partners develop- because only their stems and prick- ing a high degree of specialization. les have been found preserved in Symbolism Island genetics is believed to be a detail; one of the earliest examples common source of speciation, espe- of petrification. Lilies are often used to denote life cially when it comes to radical or resurrection adaptations which seem to have The similarity in leaf and stem required inferior transitional forms. structure can be very important, Flowers are common subjects of Note that the wasp example is not because flowers are genetically just still life paintings, such as this one incidental; bees, apparently an adaptation of normal leaf and by Ambrosius Bosschaert the Elder evolved specifically for symbiotic stem components on plants, a com- Chinese Jade ornament with flower plant relationships, are descended bination of genes normally respon- design, Jin Dynasty (1115-1234 from wasps. sible for forming new shoots. The AD), Shanghai Museum. most primitive flowers are thought Likewise, most fruit used in plant to have had a variable number of Language of Flowers reproduction comes from the flower parts, often separate from enlargement of parts of the flower. (but in contact with) each other. Many flowers have important sym- This fruit is frequently a tool which The flowers would have tended to bolic meanings in Western culture. depends upon animals wishing to grow in a spiral pattern, to be bisex- The practice of assigning meanings eat it, and thus scattering the seeds ual (in plants, this means both male to flowers is known as floriogra- it contains. and female parts on the same phy. Some of the more common flower), and to be dominated by the examples include: While many such symbiotic rela- ovary (female part). As flowers tionships remain too fragile to sur- grew more advanced, some varia- Red roses are given as a symbol of vive competition with mainland tions developed parts fused togeth- love, beauty, and passion.

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Poppies are a symbol of consola- dried and pressed in order to create As brightening decorations within tion in time of death. In the United permanent, three-dimensional the home Kingdom, New Zealand, Australia pieces of flower art. and Canada, red poppies are worn As a gift of remembrance for bon to commemorate soldiers who have The Roman goddess of flowers, voyage parties, welcome home par- died in times of war. gardens, and the season of Spring is ties, and "thinking of you" gifts Flora. The Greek goddess of spring, Irises/ Lily are used in burials as a flowers and nature is Chloris. For funeral flowers and expressions symbol referring to "resurrection/ of sympathy for the grieving life". It is also associated with stars In Hindu mythology, flowers have (sun) and its petals blooming/shin- a significant status. Vishnu, one of For worshiping goddesses. in ing. the three major gods in the Hindu Hindu culture it is very common to system, is often depicted standing bring flowers as a gift to temples. Daisies are a symbol of innocence. straight on a lotus flower. Apart from the association with Vishnu, People therefore grow flowers Flowers within art are also repre- the Hindu tradition also considers around their homes, dedicate entire sentative of the female genitalia, as the lotus to have spiritual signifi- parts of their living space to flower seen in the works of artists such as cance. For example, it figures in the gardens, pick wildflowers, or buy Georgia O'Keeffe, Imogen Hindu stories of creation. flowers from florists who depend Cunningham, Veronica Ruiz de on an entire network of commercial Velasco, and Judy Chicago, and in Usage growers and shippers to support fact in Asian and western classical their trade. art. Many cultures around the world In modern times, people have have a marked tendency to associ- sought ways to cultivate, buy, wear, Flowers provide less food than ate flowers with femininity. or otherwise be around flowers and other major plants parts (seeds, blooming plants, partly because of fruits, roots, stems and leaves) but The great variety of delicate and their agreeable appearance and they provide several important beautiful flowers has inspired the smell. Around the world, people foods and spices. Flower vegeta- works of numerous poets, especial- use flowers for a wide range of bles include broccoli, cauliflower ly from the 18th-19th century events and functions that, cumula- and artichoke. The most expensive Romantic era. Famous examples tively, encompass one's lifetime: spice, saffron, consists of dried include William Wordsworth's I stigmas of a crocus. Other flower Wandered Lonely as a Cloud and For new births or Christenings spices are cloves and capers. Hops William Blake's Ah! Sun-Flower. flowers are used to flavor beer. As a corsage or boutonniere to be Marigold flowers are fed to chick- Because of their varied and colorful worn at social functions or for holi- ens to give their egg yolks a golden appearance, flowers have long been days. yellow color, which consumers find a favorite subject of visual artists as more desirable. Dandelion flowers well. Some of the most celebrated As tokens of love or esteem are often made into wine. Bee paintings from well-known painters Pollen, pollen collected from bees, are of flowers, such as Van Gogh's For wedding flowers for the bridal is considered a health food by some sunflowers series or Monet's water party, and decorations for the hall people. Honey consists of bee- lilies. Flowers are also dried, freeze processed flower nectar and is often

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance named for the type of flower, e.g. tations of renewal and a joyful orange blossom honey, clover afterlife, and the Mexicans to this honey and tupelo honey. day use flowers prominently in their Day of the Dead celebrations Hundreds of fresh flowers are edi- in the same way that their Aztec ble but few are widely marketed as ancestors did. food. They are often used to add color and flavor to salads. Squash flowers are dipped in breadcrumbs and fried. Edible flowers include nasturtium, chrysanthemum, carnation, cattail, honeysuckle, chicory, cornflower, Canna, and sunflower. Some edible flowers are sometimes candied such as daisy and rose (you may also come across a candied pansy).

Flowers can also be made into herbal teas. Dried flowers such as chrysanthemum, rose, jasmine, camomile are infused into tea both for their fragrance and medical properties. Sometimes, they are also mixed with tea leaves for the added fragrance.

Flowers have been used since as far back as 50,000 years in funeral rituals. Many cultures do draw a connection between flowers and life and death, and because of their sea- sonal return flowers also suggest rebirth, which is the why many people place flowers upon graves. In ancient times the Greeks would place a crown of flowers on the head of the deceased as well as cover the tomb with wreaths and flower petals, rich and powerful women in ancient Egypt would wear floral headdresses and neck- laces upon their death as represen-

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Floral

Floral Materials: Lily Adoxal Longoza Abs. Alcohol C - 8 Acacia Alcohol C - 9 Apple Blossom Magnolia Alcohol C - 10 Marigold Abs. Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Boronia Abs. Mimosa Abs. Aldehyde C - 8 Broom Abs. ( Genet ) Muguet ( Lily of the Valley ) Aldehyde C - 9 Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic Cananga Narcissus Abs. ( Jonquil ) Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Carnation Abs. Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylic Cassie Abs. Orange Flower Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric Champaca Abs. ( Magnola ) Orris Concrete Aldron Chrysanthemum Osmanthus Abs. Allyl Ionone Alpha Damascone Everlasting Flower Abs. Peony Alpha Ionone Alpha Ionone 60 Freesia Reseda Abs. Alpha Ionone White Coeur Rose Alpha Terpineol Extra Gardenia Ambrette Geranium Tuberose Abs. Ambrette XNM Ambrettolide Heliotrope Violet Leaf Abs. Ambrose Abs. Honeysuckle Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol Hyacinth Abs. Ylang Ylang Amyl Cinnamic Aldheyde A C A Di Methyl Acetal Iris Floral Materials - A Reference Amyl Salicylate Book on Fragrance Ingredients Anatoly Jasmin Abs. Andrane Jonquil Abs. ( Narcissus ) Acetate Eugenol Anisic Aldehyde Acetate C - 8 Anisyl Acetate Karo - Karounde Abs. Acetate C - 9 Anisyl Alcohol Acetate Iso Eugenol Argumen Aldehyde Lilac Acetophenone Aurantesin

24 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Aurantiol Citronellol Last Fraction Farnesol Oil Citronellyl Acetate Feuilles E’Oranger Abs. Eau Balinol Citronellyl N Butyrate Fleuroxene Benzophenone Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fleur D’Oranger Abs. Eau Benzyl Acetate Citronellyl Formate Fleur D’Oranger 175 SA Benzyl Butyl Ether Citronellyl Nitrile Floraline Tuberose Concrete Benzyl Butyrate Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Floraline Tuberose Pommade Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether Citronellyl Propionate Floral N Benzyl Iso Eugenol Cyclal C Florapal Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Cyclamen Aldehyde Florex Benzyl Salicylate Floromat Beta Ionone Damascenia Florosa Bois Amberene Forte Damascenia Rosa Abs. Florosia Bois De Rose Oil Damascenia Rosa Concrete Framboise 2222 Boisnal Damascenia 185 SA Bonorax Damascenone Geraniol Bourgenal Delphone Geraniol 60 Bromystrol Alpha Delta Damascone Geraniol 90 Bromystrol Omega Dianthanol Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil Brouts Abs. Eau D’Oranger Di Benzyl Ether Geraniol Extra Di Hydro Floralate Geranium Algerian Camomile German Di Hydro Iso Eugenol Geranium Moroccan Camomile Moroccan Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Geranyl Acetone Camomile Roman Di Hydro Linalool Geranyl Anthranilate Cananga Oil Java Di Methyl Anthranilate Geranyl Benzoate Cassie Abs. Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Geranyl N Butyrate Cassione D M B C - Acetate Geranyl Caproate Cassis Base 345 B D M B C - Propionate Geranyl Formate Cassis A 50339/779602 Di Methyl Octanol Geranyl Iso Butyrate Cassis D 500608 - 735395 Di Methyl Octanyl Acetate Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Cassis Fragrance D M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Geranyl Propionate Cassis Givco D I O L A Cetone Alpha Di Phenyl Menthane Hedione Chamomile Flowers AF - 26 Di Phenyl Oxide Helioforte Cinnamyl Acetate Dorina S A Heliomet Cinnamyl Iso Valerate Dupical Heliotropex B - 2226 CIS Jasmone Heliotropex N M Replacement Citronella Oil Java Efetaal Heliotropine Citronellol Oil Coeur Ethyl Caproate Heliotropine N Citronellol Oil Extra Ethyl Laurate Heliotropyl Acetate Citronellol 750 Ethyl Linalool Hexalon Citronellol 80 Intermediate Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Citronellol 850 Farenal Hexyl Cyclo Pentarone # 405

25 Glen O. Brechbill

Hexyl Salicylate Jasmin Egyptian Methyl Anthranilate Hyacinth Body Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt Methyl Benzaldehyde Hydratropic Alcohol Coeur Jasmolactone Methyl Benzoate Hydrofix L Jasmo Lactone CNC Methyl Hexyl Ketone Hydrofis R Jasmonyl Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Hydroxycitornellal Jessemal Methyl Ionone Extra Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Methyl Ionone Gamma A Hysimal Kir Bse # 9741 Methyl Ionone Regular Koavone Methyl Ionone Gamma Replacer Indolarome Methyl Iso Residue Indole Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme Interleven Aldehyde Laevo Citronellol Methyl Ionone Tails Ionone Alpha Extra Lavandin Abrialis Methyl Iso Eugenol Ionone Alpha Regular Lavandin Abs. Methyl Jsmonate Ionone Alpha Methyl C Lavandin Abs. In Color Methyl Lavandin Ketone Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl Lavandin Concrete Methyl Lavender Ketone Ionone Alpha Refined Lavandin Grosso Methyl Nonyl Ketone Ionone Alpha White Coeur Lavandin Grosso C - 8713 Methyl Octine Carbonate Iralia Lavender Grosso C - 8713 Methyl Para Cresol Iris Aldheyde Lavender Abs. Barren Green Methyl Phenyl Carbinol Iris Concrete Lavender Oil Spiked Methyl Tuberate Iris Concrete 199 KSA Lavender Oil Spike Sub. 2707 Mimosa Abs. Essence Irival Liffarome Mimosa Odor Essence Irone Alpha Refined Lilial Mirabelle 2000 Iso Butyl Benzoate Lile Strallis 22 Muguet Aldehyde 50 Iso Butyl Salicylate Linalool Mugone 207M Iso Cyclo Citral Linalool Intermediate Iso Damascone Linalool Oxide Neo Jasmin # 937 Iso Eugenol Linalool Terpenes Neral Crude 88 % Iso Eugenol # 6504 Linalyl Acetate Nerol Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal Linalyl Benzoate Nerol A Iso Jasmone Linalyl Butyrate Nerol Petals Iso Phytol Linalyl Propionate Nerol Special Iso Plugeol Lychee Neroli Bigarrade Moroccan Lyral Nerolidol Jacinthe 127 SA Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Jacintheme 135 SA Mallow Neryl Acetate Jasmal Merion 2,6, Nonadienal # 332 Jasmaprunate Methoxy Ortho Cinnamic 2, 6 Nona 1 al Di Ethyl Acetal Jasmin # 187 Aldehyde Jasmin Abs. MethAcetophenone Octanol 2 Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn. Methyl Acetyl Anthranilate Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 226 Jasmin Abs. Italian Mzx. Methyl Anisate Octyl Formate

26 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Oranger Crystals Phenyl Propyl Alcohol Schiff Base Oranger Liquid Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Methyl Anth. / Hydroxy Orris Concrete Phixia Schiff Base Orris Oil Phytia Abs. Methyl Anthranilate / Lilial Orris Resin Abs. Phytol Schiff Base Orris Resinoid Pivarose Methyl Antnranilate / Triplal Osmantha Piviane 2 Sclarene Osmanthus CC Abs. Polarose Sino Citral Osmanthus NT 5232 Pseudo Methyl Ionone Terpenes Styrallyl Acetate Oxyertaline Formate Styrallyl Alcohol Racinia Styrallyl Propionate Palmarosa Oil Reseda Body Styrax Essence CD Para Cresyl Acetate Rhodinol X Citronella Styrax Clarified Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate Rhodinol Coeur Styrax Provence Essence Para Cresyl Methyl Rhodinyl Acetate Styrax Purified Para Cresyl Phenyl Acetate Rhodinyl N Butyrate Sweet Pea Para Cresyl Redistilled Rhodinyl Formate Sweet Pea Double Para Methyl Quinoline Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Syringa Para Methoxy Acetophenone Rhodinyl Propionate Syringa 1523 Parmavert Rhodinyl Salicylate Petilyn Rhodinyl Valerate Terpineol Extra Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Rosacene Terpineol Prime Petitgrain Citronner Oil Rosalva Terpineol 350 Petitgrain Oil Moroccan Rose Abs. Moroccan Tepyl Acetate Petitgrain Oil S A Rose Abs. Turkey Tetra Hydra Linalool Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless Rose Crystals Tetra Hydra Mugol Petitgrainol Rose Essence 193 Tetralide Phenoxanal Rose Essence Bulgare The 71795 Phenoxy Ethanol Rosemary Oil Tolu Balsam Oil Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol Rose Nitrile Tolu Balsam Alva Essence Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Rose Oil Moroccan Tolu Balsam Resinoid Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Rose Oil Moroccan Select Tolyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Rose Oil Templar Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Rose Oil Turkey Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Rose Oil Turkey Commercial Tuberanthia S A Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Rose Oil Turkish Tuberose Abs. Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Rose Orient Tuberose Pommade Phenyl Ethyl Formate Rose Oxide R Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Undecavertol Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Scennal Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Scentennal Vanoris Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Schiff Base Vartol # 914 Phenyl Propyl Acetate Methyl Anthranilate / ACA Velutone

27 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet Abs. French Amyl Cyclopentanone Propanone Catnation Violet Abs. Rue Amyl Cyclopentenone Cassia Absolute Violet Abs. Selection Amyl Geranate Cassie Concrete Vioelt Colorless 54.5219 Amyl Salicylate Cassis Buteneone Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149 Amyl Undecylenate Cassis Methanol Violet F’Builles Abs. Angel Essence Cassis Oxime Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal Champaca Absolute Wild Pimento Oil Anisaldehyde / Methyl Anthran. Champaca Concrete Anisonitrile Cherry Blossom X.I. Aldheyde Anisyl Butyrate Cinnamyl Phenyl Acetate Anisyl Propanal / Methyl Anthran. Citronella Oil Java Yara Yara Crystals Anisyl Propanal / Methyl Anthran. Citronellal Ylang Ylang Abs. Apple Blossom Citronellol Ylang Ylang Complete Autumn Carboxylate Citronellol - Laevo Ylang Ylang Concrete Azalea Citronellyl Acetate Ylang Ylang Oil Citronellyl Acetate - Laevo Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Benzaldehyde Propylene Glycol A Citronellyl Acetone Ylang Ylang “ First “ Benzyl Acetate Citronellyl Acetate - Laevo Ylang Ylang “ Second “ Benzyl Acetoacetate Citronellyl Anthranilate Benzyl Acetone Citronellyl Benzoate The Good Scent Company - Benzyl Alcohol Citronellyl Butyrate Aromatic Chemicals Benzyl Iso Butyrate Citronellyl Cinnamate Benzyl Formate Citronellyl Ethoxalate Acetal 318 Benzyl Lactate Citronellyl Ethyl Ether Acetate C - 8 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Citronellyl Formate Acetophenone Bigarade Oxide Citronellyl Hexanoate 1 - Acetyl Cyclo Hexyl Acetate Bisabolol Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Acetyl Tetralin Blue Lagoon Citronellyl Propionate Alcohol C - 9 Bois De Rose Citronellyl Tiglate Alcohol C - 10 Bois De Rose Oil Brazil Citronellyl Valerate Aldehyde C - 8 / Methyl Anthran. Bois De Rose Oil Terpeneless Citronellyl Iso Valerate Aldehyde C - 9 / Methyl Anthran. Boronia Absolute Citrus Propanol Aldehyde C - 10 / Methyl Anthran. Boronia Butenal Clary Sage Absolute Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylic Dima. Bouquet Clean Cotton Allyl Anthranilate Butyl Benzyl Ether Coriander Seed Oil Amyl Angelate Butyl Cinnamaldehyde - alpha Country Meadow Amyl Anthranilate Butyl Nonanoate Crabapple Blossom Amyl Benzoate Butyl Salicylate Cresyl Acetate Para Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Butyl Salicylate - Iso Cresyl Ethanol Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Dea. Cresyl Laurate Ether Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Dma. Calla Lily Cresyl Proionaldehyde Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Methyl A. Cananga Oil Cumin Carbinol Amyl Cinnamyl Acetate Cardamom Absolute Currant Bud Concrete Black

28 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Cyclamen Aldehyde Ethyl 2 - Benzyl Butyrate Geranyl Acetone Cyclamen Aldehyde Methyl Anth. Ethyl Ethyl Anthranilate Geranyl Anthranilate Cyclamen Homoaldehyde Ethyl Hydro Cinnamate Geranyl Iso Butyrate Cyclamen Propanal Ethyl Linalool Geranyl Ethyl Ether Cyclo Hexyl Ethyl Acetate Ethyl Linalyl Acetal Geranyl Formate Cyclo Hexyl Ethyl Alcohol Ethyl Linalyl Acetate Geranyl Hexanoate Cyclo Hexyl Propanol Ethyl Oleate Geranyl Linalool Cyclo Hexyl Salicylate Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Geranyl Methyl Ether Ethyl Safranate Geranyl Nonanoate Damascenone - Beta Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Damascone - Delta Farnesal Geranyl Propionate Damascone - Gamma Farnesol ( E,E ), ( E,Z ) Geranyl Tiglate 3 - Decanol Farnesyl Acetate Geranyl Valerate 2 - Decanone Floral Butanal Greenhouse 9 - Decen - 1 - OL Floral Methanol (Z) - 4 - Decen - 1 - yyl Acetate Floral Pyran Hawthorn Acetate Decyl Anthranilate Floral Pyranol Hawthorn Base 1 Decyl Formate Floral Undecenone Heather Dewy Propionate Frangipany Absolute Pink Heliotrope Di Hydro Carvyl Acetate Freesia Heliotrope Absolute Di Hydro Citronellyl Ethyl Ether Freesia Acetate Heliotropin Di Hydro Geranyl Linalool Fruity Cyclopentanone Heliotropyl Acetate Di Hydro - Alpha - Ionone Heliotropyl Acetone Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Gardenia Heliotropyl Di Ethyl Acetal Di Hydro Jasmone Gardenia Absolute Heptyl Propionate Di Hydro Jasmone Lactone Gardenia Acetal Herbal Pyran Di Hydro Linalool Gardenia Amide Hexa Hydro Farnesyl Acetone Di Hydrose Oxide Gardenia Concrete Hexen - 1 - yl Salicylate Di Methyl Anthranilate Gardenia Decalone Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde - alpha Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol Gardenia Oxide Hexyl Lactate Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl A. Gardenia Penytyl Acetate Hexyl Nonanoate Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl B. Gardenia - 1110 Hibiscus Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl P. Genet Concrete Ho Leaf Oil Di Methyl Alpha - Ionone Geraniol Ho Wood Oil Di Methyl Ocanol Geranium Cyclo Hexane Honeysuckle Di Methyl Phenethyl Carbinol Geranium Di Hydro Pyran Honeysuckle Absolute Di Methyl Phenethyl Carbinyl A. Geranium Nitrile Hyacinth Di Methyl Phenethyl Carbinyl I B. Geranium Oil Africa Hyacinth Acetal Geranium Oil Bourbon Hyacinth Ether Earthy Indane Geranium Oil China Hydrangea Ethyl Acetophenone - Para Geranium Oil Egypt Hydroxycitronellal Ethyl Ortho Anisate Geranium Oil Moroccan Hydroxycitronellal Di Ethyl Acetal Ethyl Anthranilate Geranium Oil Terpeneless Hydroxycitronellal Di Methyl A.

29 Glen O. Brechbill

Hydroxycitronellal / Methyl Anth. Lilac Aldehyde Muguet Butanol Hydroxycitronellol Lilac Lactone Muguet Carbaldehyde Lily Muguet Carboxaldehyde Ionol - Alpha Lily Absolute Muguet Ethanol Ionol - Beta Lily of the Valley Muguet Nitrile Ionone - Alpha Lily of the Valley Absolute Muguet Octadienol Ionone - Beta Lily Propanol Muguet Propanol Ionyl Acetate - Alpha Lilyall Muguet Shiseol Ionyl Acetate - Beta Lilyall / Methyl Anthranilate Musk Acetate Irone - Alpha Linaloe Wood Oil Mexico Myrcenol Linalool Jasimia Linalool Oxide Naphthyl Anthranilate - Beta Jasmin Linalyl Anthranilate Naphthyl Methyl Ketone - Beta Jasmin Absolute Chassis Linalyl Benzoate Narcissus Jasmin Absolute Concrete Egypt Linalyl Butyrate Nerol Jasmin Absolute Pommade Linalyl Phenyl Acetate Neroli Jasmin Acetate Linalyl Propionate Neroli # 1 Jasmin Aceto Acetate Linden Blossom Neroli Bigarade Oil France Jasmin Concrete Italy Lotus Nerolidol Jasmin Concrete Morocco Magnolia Nerolidyl Acetate Jasmin Cyclopentanol Magnolia Cyclo Hexanol Nerolin Fragarol Jasmin Cyclopentanone Magnolia Decadienal Neryl Acetate Jasmin Lactone Magnolia Indene Neryl Formate Jasmin Oil Italy Menthadienyl Formate Neryl Iso Valerate Jasmin Pyranol Methoxy Citronellal 3 - Nonanone Jasmin Pyranone Methoxy Melonal 3 - Nonanon - 1 - yl Acetate Jasmone - ( Z ) Methyl Acetophenone Nonisyl Propionate Jasmone Iso Methyl Benzyl Acetate Nonyl Heptanoate Jasmone Para Methyl Citronellate Nonyl Octanoate Jonquil Absolute Methyl Gamma DeDecalactone Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate Ocean Propanal / Methyl Anth. Karo Karounde Absolute Methyl Ionone - 6 Ocimene - Beta Kewda Absolute Methyl Ionone - Alpha - Iso Ocimene - Beta - ( Z ) Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme Octyl Iso Valerate Lavandin Concrete Decolorized Methyl Ionyl Acetate Orange Blossom Lavandin Oil Abrialis Methyl Jasmonate Orange Leaf Absolute Lavender Absolute Bulgaria Methyl Epi Jsmonate Orange Flower Absolute Morocco Lavender Absolute France Methyl Naphthyl Ketone Orange Flower Water Absolute Lavender Oil Methyl Octanal Orange Flower - 1150 Leerall Mimosa Absolute Orchid Leerall / Methyl Anthranilate Mimosa Concrete France Orris Lilac Mimosa Heptanal Orris Butenone Lilac Absolute Muguet Butanal Orris Pyridine 25 % IPM

30 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Orris Root Absolute Propiophenone Terpineol - Gamma Orris Root Concrete Propyl Salicylate Terpinyl Anthranilate - Alpha Orris Root Resinoid Terpinyl Iso Butyrate Rian Fresh Terpinyl Formate Palmarosa Oil Red Rose Terpinyl Valerate Peach Nitirle Red Rose - 1104 Tetrahydro Ionol Pentadecanone - 2 Reseda Acetal Tetrahydro Ionyl Acetate Penten - 1 - yl Cyclopentanone Rhodino Tetra Hydro Linalool Peony Rhodinyl Acetate Tetra Hydro Linalyl Acetate Peony Pink Rhodinyl Butyrate Tobacco Flower Absolute Peonyl Acetonitrile Rhodinyl Iso Butyrate Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Peonyl Alcohol Rhodinyl Formate Tuberolide Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Tuberose Petitgrain Cedrat Oil Rhodinyl Propionate Tuberose Absolute Concrete Petitgrain Lemon Oil Rhodinyl Iso Valerate Tuberose Absolute Pommade Petitgrain Mandarin Oil Rose Absolute Bulgaria Tuberose Acetate Petitgrain Oil Rose Absolute Morocco Tuberose Concrete Petitgrain Oil Terpeneles Paraguay Rose Absolute Pentanol 2 - Undecen - 1 - ol Phenethyl Acetate Rose Acetate Phenethyl Alcohol Rose Blossom Pentanol Vetiver Pentanone Phenethyl Anthranilate Rose Butanoate Violet Phenethyl Benzoate Rose Carbonate Violet Flower Absolute Phenethyl Butyl Ether Rose Carboxylate Violet Methyl Carbonate Phenethyl Butyrate Rose Concrete Phenethyl Iso Butyrate Rose Concrete Bulgaria Wallflower Absolute Phenethyl Formate Rose Oil Turkey White Ginger Phenethyl Heptanoate Rose Oxide - Laevo White Rose Phenethyl Hexanoate Rose Petal Acetate Phenethyl Methyl Ethyl Carbinol Rose Pyran Ylang Ylang Absolute Phenethyl Pivalate Rose Undecene Ylang Ylang Concrete Phenethyl Propionate Ylang Ylang Oil Phenethyl Salicylate Satin Aldehyde Phenethyl Salicylate Spring Rain Phenethyl Iso Valerate Styralyl Iso Butyrate Phenoxyethanol Styralyl Formate Phenyl Acetaldehyde / Methyl An. Styralyl Propionate Phenyl Amyl Alcohol Surfleurs D’ Oranger Oil Phenyl Ethylidene Acetone Sweet Pea Phenyl Glycol Diacetate Sweet Pea Absolute Phytol Iso Plum Damascon Tea Acetate Plumeria Tea Rose Prenyl Salicylate Terpineol - Alpha

31 Glen O. Brechbill

Acacia

Is a genus of shrubs and trees The genus Acacia previously con- species. That decision has lead a belonging to the subfamily tained roughly 1300 species, about group of taxonomists to decide to Mimosoideae of the family 960 of them native to Australia, continue to use the traditional Fabaceae, first described in Africa with the remainder spread around Acacia sensu lato circumscription by the Swedish botanist Carl the tropical to warm-temperate of the genus. This is however prob- Linnaeus in 1773. Many non- regions of both hemispheres, ably bad practice and in direct vio- Australian species tend to be including Europe, Africa, southern lation of modern principles of clas- thorny, whereas the majority of Asia, and the Americas. However, sification. When the genus is divid- Australian acacias are not. They are in 2005 the genus was divided into ed, the traditional acacias of Africa pod-bearing, with sap and leaves five separate genera. The name are now treated in the genera typically bearing large amounts of Acacia was retained for the majori- Vachellia and Senegalia, some of tannins and condensed tannins that ty of the Australian species and a the American species are placed in historically in many species found few in tropical Asia, Madagascar Acaciella and Mariosousa, and the use as pharmaceuticals and preserv- and Pacific Islands. Most of the majority of species still treated in atives. species outside Australia, and a the genus Acacia are confined to small number of Australian species, Australia. The generic name derives from were reclassified into Vachellia and (akakia), the name given by early Senegalia. The two final genera, In common parlance, the term "aca- Greek botanist-physician Pedanius Acaciella and Mariosousa, only cia" is occasionally misapplied to Dioscorides (ca. 40-90) to the contain about a dozen species from species of the genus Robinia, which medicinal tree A. nilotica in his the Americas each. also belongs in the pea family. book Materia Medica. This name Robinia pseudoacacia, an derives from the Greek word for its Classification American species locally known as characteristic thorns, (akis, thorn). Black Locust, is sometimes called The species name nilotica was The traditional circumscription of "false acacia" in cultivation in the given by Linnaeus from this tree's the genus Acacia is not mono- United Kingdom. best-known range along the Nile phyletic. This discovery has led to river. the breaking up of Acacia into five Geography genera as discussed in: List of Acacias are also known as thorn- Acacia species, along with the Acacias in Australia probably trees, whistling thorns or wattles, much debated re-typification of the evolved their fire resistance about including the yellow-fever acacia genus with an Australian species 20 million years ago when fos- and umbrella acacias. instead of the original African type silised charcoal deposits show a

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance large increase, indicating that fire The leaves of acacias are com- Kangaroo-thorn of Australia and was a factor even then. With no pound pinnate in general. In some Acacia erioloba is the Camelthorn major mountain ranges or rivers to species, however, more especially of Africa. prevent their spread, the wattles in the Australian and Pacific islands began to spread all over the conti- species, the leaflets are suppressed, Acacia seeds can be difficult to ger- nent as it dried and fires became and the leaf-stalks (petioles) minate. Research has found that more common. They began to form become vertically flattened, and immersing the seeds in various dry, open forests with species of the serve the purpose of leaves. These temperatures (usually around 80 genera Casuarina, Eucalyptus and are known as phyllodes. The verti- °C) and manual seed coat chipping Callitris (Cypress-pines). cal orientation of the phyllodes pro- can improve yields to approximate- tects them from intense sunlight, as ly 80 percent. The southernmost species in the with their edges towards the sky genus are Acacia dealbata (Silver and earth they do not intercept light Symbiosis Wattle), Acacia longifolia (Coast so fully as horizontally placed Wattle or Sydney Golden Wattle), leaves. A few species (such as Acacia collinsii stipules Acacia mearnsii (Black Wattle), Acacia glaucoptera) lack leaves or and Acacia melanoxylon phyllodes altogether, but possess In the Central American Acacia (Blackwood), reaching 43°30' S in instead cladodes, modified leaf-like sphaerocephala, Acacia cornigera, Tasmania, Australia, while Acacia photosynthetic stems functioning and Acacia collinsii (collectively caven (Espinillo Negro) reaches as leaves. known as the bullthorn acacias), the nearly as far south in northeastern large thorn-like stipules are hollow Chubut Province of Argentina. The small flowers have five very and afford shelter for several small petals, almost hidden by the species of Pseudomyrmex ants, Australian species are usually long stamens, and are arranged in which feed on a secretion of sap on called wattles, while African and dense globular or cylindrical clus- the leaf-stalk and small, lipid-rich American species tend to be known ters; they are yellow or cream-col- food-bodies at the tips of the as acacias. ored in most species, whitish in leaflets called Beltian bodies. In some, even purple (Acacia pur- return, the ants add protection to Acacia albida, Acacia tortilis and pureapetala) or red (Acacia leprosa the plant against herbivores. Some Acacia iraqensis can be found Scarlet Blaze). Acacia flowers can species of ants will also fight off growing wild in the Sinai desert be distinguished from those of a competing plants around the acacia, and the Jordan valley. It is found in large related genus, Albizia, by cutting off the offending plant's the savanna vegetation of the tropi- their stamens which are not joined leaves with their jaws and ultimate- cal continental climate. It grows at the base. Also, unlike individual ly killing it. Other associated ant wild in Montserrat West Indies; Mimosa flowers, those of Acacia species appear to do nothing to ben- there it is locally referred to as have more than 10 stamens. efit their hosts. 'cusha.' The plants often bear spines, espe- Similar mutualisms with ants occur Description cially those species growing in arid on Acacia trees in Africa, such as regions. These sometimes represent the Whistling Thorn acacia. The Acacia facsiculifera seedling in the branches which have become short, acacias provide shelter for ants in transitional stage between pinnate hard and pungent, or sometimes the hollow stipules and nectar in leaves and phyllodes. leaf-stipules. Acacia armata is the extrafloral nectaries for their sym-

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill biotic ants such as Crematogaster In Burma, Laos and Thailand, the gum and M&Ms Pretzel. mimosae. In turn, the ants protect feathery shoots of Acacia pennata the plant by attacking large mam- (common name cha-om, and su Honey labeled under the term malian herbivores and stem-boring pout ywet in Burmese) are used in 'Acacia Honey' is a type of honey beetles that damage the plant. soups, curries, omelettes, and stir- produced by bees from a false aca- fries. cia known as black locust in North Pests America, but called by the mis- In Mexico the seeds are known as nomer 'acacia' in Europe, hence this In Australia, Acacia species are Guajes. Guajes or huajes are the liquid honey which practically sometimes used as food plants by flat, green pods of an acacia tree. doesn't crystallize does not come the larvae of hepialid moths of the The pods are sometimes light green from true acacias. genus Aenetus including A. ligniv- or deep red in color both taste the eren. These burrow horizontally same. Guaje seeds are about the Gum into the trunk then vertically down. size of a small lima bean and are Other Lepidoptera larvae which eaten raw with guacamole, some- Various species of acacia yield have been recorded feeding on times cooked and made into a gum. True gum arabic is the prod- Acacia include Brown-tail, sauce. They can also be made into uct of Acacia senegal, abundant in Endoclita malabaricus and Turnip fritters. The ground seeds are used dry tropical West Africa from Moth. The leaf-mining larvae of to impart a slightly garlicy flavor to Senegal to northern Nigeria. some bucculatricid moths also feed a mole called guaxmole (huax- on Acacia: Bucculatrix agilis feeds mole). The dried seeds may be Acacia arabica is the gum-Arabic exclusively on Acacia horrida and toasted and salted and eaten as a tree of India, but yields a gum infe- Bucculatrix flexuosa feeds exclu- snack referred to as "cacalas". rior to the true gum-Arabic. sively on Acacia nilotica. The predominantly herbivorous Uses in Folk Medicine Acacias contain a number of organ- spider Bagheera kiplingi, which is ic compounds that defend them found in Central America and Acacia species have possible uses from pests and grazing animals. Mexico, feeds on nubs at the tips of in folk medicine.[citation needed] the acacia leaves, known as Beltian In Ayurvedic medicine, Acacia Uses bodies, which contain high concen- nilotica may be a remedy helpful trations of protein. These nubs are for treating premature ejacula- Food uses produced by the acacia as part of a tion.[citation needed] A 19th centu- symbiotic relationship with certain ry Ethiopian medical text describes Acacia seed pods, also known as species of ant, which also eat them. a potion made from an Ethiopian Guajes, served as part of a botana in species of Acacia (known as grar) Oaxaca, Mexico. Acacia is listed as an ingredient in mixed with the root of the tacha, Sun Drop, Fresca, RC Cola, Barq's then boiled, as a cure for rabies. Acacia Dealbata Seeds root beer, Full Throttle Unleaded Energy Drink, Strawberry- An astringent medicine high in tan- Acacia seeds are often used for Lemonade Powerade as well as in nins, called catechu or cutch, is pro- food and a variety of other prod- Läkerol pastille candies, Altoids cured from several species, but ucts. mints, Langer's Pineapple Coconut more especially from Acacia cate- Juice, Wrigley's Eclipse chewing chu, by boiling down the wood and

34 The Floral Notes of Fragrance evaporating the solution so as to get Paints an extract. The catechu extract from Acacia catechu figures in the The ancient Egyptians used Acacia history of chemistry in giving its in paints. name to the catechin, catechol, and catecholamine chemical families Perfume ultimately derived from it. Acacia farnesiana Ornamental Uses Acacia farnesiana is used in the A few species are widely grown as perfume industry due to its strong ornamentals in gardens; the most fragrance. The use of Acacia as a popular perhaps is Acacia dealbata fragrance dates back centuries. (Silver Wattle), with its attractive glaucous to silvery leaves and Symbolism & Ritual bright yellow flowers; it is erro- neously known as "mimosa" in some areas where it is cultivated, through confusion with the related genus Mimosa.

Another ornamental acacia is Acacia xanthophloea (Fever Tree). Southern European florists use Acacia baileyana, Acacia dealbata, Acacia pycnantha and Acacia retinodes as cut flowers and the common name there for them is mimosa.

Ornamental species of acacia are also used by homeowners and landscape architects for home security. The sharp thorns of some species deter unauthorized persons from entering private properties, and may prevent break-ins if planted under windows and near drain- pipes. The aesthetic characteristics of acacia plants, in conjunction with their home security qualities, makes them a considerable alternative to artificial fences and walls.

35 http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/apple_blossom

Glen O. Brechbill

Apple Blossom

The flower of an apple tree that will Different cultivars are bred for var- and deciduous, reaching 3 to 12 eventually turn into an apple. ious tastes and uses, including in metres (9.8 to 39 ft) tall, with a cooking, fresh eating and cider pro- broad, often densely twiggy crown. Apple duction. Domestic apples are gen- The leaves are alternately arranged erally propagated by grafting, simple ovals 5 to 12 cm long and The apple is the pomaceous fruit of although wild apples grow readily 3–6 centimetres (1.2–2.4 in) broad the apple tree, species Malus from seed. Trees are prone to a on a 2 to 5 centimetres (0.79 to 2.0 domestica in the rose family number of fungal, bacterial and in) petiole with an acute tip, serrat- (Rosaceae). It is one of the most pest problems, which can be con- ed margin and a slightly downy widely cultivated tree fruits, and trolled by a number of organic and underside. Blossoms are produced the most widely known of the many non-organic means. in spring simultaneously with the members of genus Malus that are budding of the leaves. The flowers used by humans. Apples grow on At least 55 million tonnes of apples are white with a pink tinge that small, deciduous trees. The tree were grown worldwide in 2005, gradually fades, five petaled, and originated in Western Asia, where with a value of about $10 billion. 2.5 to 3.5 centimetres (0.98 to 1.4 its wild ancestor, Malus sieversii, is China produced about 35% of this in) in diameter. The fruit matures in still found today. Apples have been total. The United States is the sec- autumn, and is typically 5 to 9 cen- grown for thousands of years in ond-leading producer, with more timetres (2.0 to 3.5 in) in diameter. Asia and Europe, and were brought than 7.5% of world production. Iran The center of the fruit contains five to North America by European is third, followed by Turkey, carpels arranged in a five-point star, colonists. Apples have been present Russia, Italy and India. Apples are each carpel containing one to three in the mythology and religions of often eaten raw, but can also be seeds, called pips. many cultures, including Norse, found in many foods (especially Greek and Christian traditions. In desserts) and drinks. Many benefi- Wild Ancestors 2010, the fruit's genome was cial health effects have been found decoded, leading to new under- from eating apples; however, the The original wild ancestors of standings of disease control and seeds are slightly poisonous and Malus domestica was Malus siever- selective breeding in apple produc- two forms of allergies are seen to sii, found growing wild in the tion. various proteins found in the fruit. mountains of Central Asia in southern Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, There are more than 7,500 known Botanical Information Tajikistan, and Xinjiang, China.[3] cultivars of apples, resulting in a Cultivation of the species, most range of desired characteristics. The apple forms a tree that is small likely beginning on the forested

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance flanks of the Tian Shan mountains, History facilities use high humidity and low has progressed over a long period oxygen and carbon dioxide levels of time and permitted secondary The center of diversity of the genus to maintain fruit freshness. introgression of genes from other Malus is in eastern Turkey. The species into the open-pollinated apple tree was perhaps the earliest Germanic Paganism seeds, including such a large tree to be cultivated, and its fruits amount of gene exchange with have been improved through selec- In Norse mythology, the goddess Malus sylvestris, the crabapple, tion over thousands of years. Iðunn is portrayed in the Prose that current populations of apples Alexander the Great is credited Edda (written in the 13th century are more related to those of crabap- with finding dwarfed apples in by Snorri Sturluson) as providing ples than to the more morphologi- Kazakhstan in Asia in 328 BCE; apples to the gods that give them cally similar progenitor Malus siev- those he brought back to eternal youthfulness. English schol- ersii, though in pure strains without Macedonia might have been the ar H. R. Ellis Davidson links apples recent admixture the contribution progenitors of dwarfing root stocks. to religious practices in Germanic of the latter predominates. Winter apples, picked in late paganism, from which Norse autumn and stored just above freez- paganism developed. She points Genome ing, have been an important food in out that buckets of apples were Asia and Europe for millennia, as found in the Oseberg ship burial In 2010, an Italian-led consortium well as in Argentina and in the site in Norway, and that fruit and announced they had decoded the United States since the arrival of nuts (Iðunn having been described complete genome of the apple in Europeans. Apples were brought to as being transformed into a nut in collaboration with horticultural North America with colonists in the Skáldskaparmál) have been found genomicists at Washington State 17th century, and the first apple in the early graves of the Germanic University, using the Golden deli- orchard on the North American peoples in England and elsewhere cious variety. It had about 57,000 continent was said to be near on the continent of Europe, which genes, the highest number of any Boston in 1625. In the 20th century, may have had a symbolic meaning, plant genome studied to date and irrigation projects in Washington and that nuts are still a recognized more genes than the human genome state began and allowed the devel- symbol of fertility in southwest (about 30,000). This new under- opment of the multibillion dollar England. standing of the apple genome will fruit industry, of which the apple is help scientists in identifying genes the leading species. Davidson notes a connection and gene variants that contribute to between apples and the Vanir, a resistance to disease and drought, Until the 20th century, farmers tribe of gods associated with fertili- and other desirable characteristics. stored apples in frostproof cellars ty in Norse mythology, citing an Understanding the genes behind during the winter for their own use instance of eleven "golden apples" these characteristics will allow sci- or for sale. Improved transportation being given to woo the beautiful entists to perform more knowledge- of fresh apples by train and road Gerðr by Skírnir, who was acting as able selective breeding. Decoding replaced the necessity for storage. messenger for the major Vanir god the genome also provided proof In the 21st century, long-term stor- Freyr in stanzas 19 and 20 of that Malus sieversii was the wild age again came into popularity, as Skírnismál. Davidson also notes a ancestor of the domestic apple an "controlled atmosphere" facilities further connection between fertility issue that had been long-debated in were used to keep apples fresh and apples in Norse mythology in the scientific community. year-round. Controlled atmosphere chapter 2 of the Völsunga saga

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill when the major goddess Frigg word "apple" was used as a generic share your girlhood with me; but if sends King Rerir an apple after he term for all ( foreign ) fruit, other your thoughts are what I pray they prays to Odin for a child, Frigg's than berries, but including nuts, as are not, even then take it, and con- messenger (in the guise of a crow) late as the 17th century For sider how short-lived is beauty. drops the apple in his lap as he sits instance, in Greek mythology, the atop a mound. Rerir's wife's con- Greek hero Heracles, as a part of Atalanta, also of Greek mythology, sumption of the apple results in a his Twelve Labours, was required raced all her suitors in an attempt to six-year pregnancy and the to travel to the Garden of the avoid marriage. She outran all but Caesarean section birth of their son Hesperides and pick the golden Hippomenes (a.k.a. Melanion, a the hero Völsung. apples off the Tree of Life growing name possibly derived from melon at its center. the Greek word for both "apple" Further, Davidson points out the and fruit in general), who defeated "strange" phrase "Apples of Hel" The Greek goddess of discord, Eris, her by cunning, not speed. used in an 11th century poem by the became disgruntled after she was Hippomenes knew that he could not skald Thorbiorn Brúnarson. She excluded from the wedding of win in a fair race, so he used three states this may imply that the apple Peleus and Thetis. In retaliation, golden apples (gifts of Aphrodite, was thought of by the skald as the she tossed a golden apple inscribed the goddess of love) to distract food of the dead. Further, Davidson (Kalliste, sometimes transliterated Atalanta. It took all three apples notes that the potentially Germanic Kallisti, 'For the most beautiful and all of his speed, but goddess Nehalennia is sometimes one'), into the wedding party. Three Hippomenes was finally successful, depicted with apples and that paral- goddesses claimed the apple: Hera, winning the race and Atalanta's lels exist in early Irish stories. Athena, and Aphrodite. Paris of hand. Davidson asserts that while cultiva- Troy was appointed to select the tion of the apple in Northern recipient. After being bribed by The forbidden fruit in the Garden of Europe extends back to at least the both Hera and Athena, Aphrodite Eden time of the Roman Empire and tempted him with the most beauti- came to Europe from the Near East, ful woman in the world, Helen of Though the forbidden fruit in the the native varieties of apple trees Sparta. He awarded the apple to Book of Genesis is not identified, growing in Northern Europe are Aphrodite, thus indirectly causing popular Christian tradition has held small and bitter. Davidson con- the Trojan War. that it was an apple that Eve coaxed cludes that in the figure of Iðunn Adam to share with her. This may "we must have a dim reflection of The apple was thus considered, in have been the result of Renaissance an old symbol: that of the guardian ancient Greece, to be sacred to painters adding elements of Greek goddess of the life-giving fruit of Aphrodite, and to throw an apple at mythology into biblical scenes the other world." someone was to symbolically (alternative interpretations also declare one's love; and similarly, to based on Greek mythology occa- Greek Mythology catch it was to symbolically show sionally replace the apple with a one's acceptance of that love. An pomegranate). In this case the Apples appear in many religious epigram claiming authorship by unnamed fruit of Eden became an traditions, often as a mystical or Plato states: apple under the influence of story forbidden fruit. One of the prob- of the golden apples in the Garden lems identifying apples in religion, I throw the apple at you, and if you of Hesperides. As a result, in the mythology and folktales is that the are willing to love me, take it and story of Adam and Eve, the apple

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance became a symbol for knowledge, colourful skin, absence of russet- Apple Breeding immortality, temptation, the fall of ing, ease of shipping, lengthy stor- man into sin, and sin itself. In age ability, high yields, disease n the wild, apples grow quite readi- Latin, the words for "apple" and for resistance, typical 'Red Delicious' ly from seeds. However, like most "evil" are similar (ma-lum "an apple shape, and popular flavour. perennial fruits, apples are ordinar- apple", ma(lum "an evil, a misfor- Modern apples are generally sweet- ily propagated asexually by graft- tune"). This may also have influ- er than older cultivars, as popular ing. This is because seedling apples enced the apple becoming interpret- tastes in apples have varied over are an example of "extreme het- ed as the biblical "forbidden fruit". time. Most North Americans and erozygotes", in that rather than The larynx in the human throat has Europeans favour sweet, subacid inheriting DNA from their parents been called Adam's apple because apples, but tart apples have a strong to create a new apple with those of a notion that it was caused by the minority following. Extremely characteristics, they are instead dif- forbidden fruit sticking in the throat sweet apples with barely any acid ferent from their parents, some- of Adam. The apple as symbol of flavour are popular in Asia and times radically. Triploids have an sexual seduction has been used to especially India. additional reproductive barrier in imply sexuality between men, pos- that the 3 sets of chromosomes can- sibly in an ironic vein. Old cultivars are often oddly not be divided evenly during meio- shaped, russeted, and have a variety sis, yielding unequal segregation of Apple Cultivars of textures and colours. Some find the chromosomes (aneuploids). them to have a better flavour than Even in the very unusual case when There are more than 7,500 known modern cultivars, but may have a triploid plant can produce a seed cultivars of apples. Cultivars vary other problems which make them (apples are an example), it happens in their yield and the ultimate size commercially unviable, such as low infrequently, and seedlings rarely of the tree, even when grown on the yield, disease susceptibility, or poor survive.[34] Most new apple culti- same rootstock. Different cultivars tolerance for storage or transport. A vars originate as seedlings, which are available for temperate and sub- few old cultivars are still produced either arise by chance or are bred tropical climates. One large collec- on a large scale, but many have by deliberately crossing cultivars tion of over 2,100 apple cultivars is been kept alive by home gardeners with promising characteristics. The housed at the National Fruit and farmers that sell directly to words 'seedling', 'pippin', and 'ker- Collection in England. Most of local markets. Many unusual and nel' in the name of an apple cultivar these cultivars are bred for eating locally important cultivars with suggest that it originated as a fresh (dessert apples), though some their own unique taste and appear- seedling. Apples can also form bud are cultivated specifically for cook- ance exist; apple conservation cam- sports (mutations on a single ing (cooking apples) or producing paigns have sprung up around the branch). Some bud sports turn out cider. Cider apples are typically too world to preserve such local culti- to be improved strains of the parent tart and astringent to eat fresh, but vars from extinction. In the United cultivar. Some differ sufficiently they give the beverage a rich Kingdom, old cultivars such as from the parent tree to be consid- flavour that dessert apples cannot. 'Cox's Orange Pippin' and ered new cultivars. 'Egremont Russet' are still commer- Commercially popular apple culti- cially important even though by The Excelsior Experiment Station vars are soft but crisp. Other modern standards they are low of the University of Minnesota has, desired qualities in modern com- yielding and disease prone. since the 1930s, introduced a mercial apple breeding are a steady progression of important

39 Glen O. Brechbill hardy apples that are widely grown, France and the U.S., while the both commercially and by back- biggest importers in the same year yard orchardists, throughout were Russia, Germany, the UK and Minnesota and Wisconsin. Its most the Netherlands. important introductions have included 'Haralson' (which is the most widely cultivated apple in Minnesota), 'Wealthy', 'Honeygold', and 'Honeycrisp'.

Apples have been acclimatized in Ecuador at very high altitudes, where they provide crops twice per year because of constant temperate conditions year-round.

Commerce

At least 55 million tonnes of apples were grown worldwide in 2005, with a value of about $10 billion. About two-fifths of this total was produced in China. More than 7.5% world production occurs in the United States.

In the United States, more than 60% of all the apples sold commercially are grown in Washington state. Imported apples from New Zealand and other more temperate areas are competing with US production and increasing each year.

Most of Australia's apple production is for domestic consumption. Imports from New Zealand have been disallowed under quarantine regulations for fireblight since 1921.

The largest exporters of apples in 2006 were China, Chile, Italy,

40 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Boronia

is a genus of about 90-100 species Boronia Mollis shade. of evergreen shrubs of the tribe Boronieae in the family Rutaceae. Boronia Molloyae Boronia Algida They are found all over Australia. Boronia Muelleri commonly known as Alpine Boronias generally grow in open Boronia, is a flowering plant that is forests and woodlands. They are Boronia Ovata endemic to south-eastern Australia. only rarely found in rainforests or Pale pink or white four-petalled arid areas, though some unusual Boronia Pinnata flowers appear between September species have recently been and January in the species native described from the northwest of Boronia Safrolifera range Western Australia. Boronia Serrulata ( Native Rose ) Boronia Fraseri Selected Species Taxonomy is a plant in the citrus family occur- Boronia Algida - Alpine Boronia ring near Sydney in Australia.[1] It The genus was first described by was officially described by William Boronia Clavata James Edward Smith in 1798. The Jackson Hooker in 1843,[2] deriv- species once described as genus ing its species name from Charles Boronia Falcifolia Cyanothamnus by John Lindley, in Fraser, the first superindentent of A Sketch of the Vegetation of the the Royal Botanic Gardens, Boronia Fraseri Swan River Colony, was later given Sydney. to an section of the same name in Boronia Heterophylla this genus. Unlike many Boronia plants, it prefers moist gullies and rainforest Boronia Imlayensis Cultivation and Utility areas, on soils based on sandstone. The four petalled pink flowers are Boronia Ledifolia Boronias are known for their per- relatively large, up to 24 mm wide. fumed flowers, especially B. The plant grows to 1.5 metres tall, Boronia Megastigma megastigma. Unfortunately, they and is almost hairless, apart from are generally somewhat difficult to tiny stellate hairs on the branches. Boronia Microphylla grow in cultivation. All species A rare plant, with a ROTAP rating require excellent drainage and part of 2RCa. Well drained soils with

41 Glen O. Brechbill part shade are advised for cultiva- 1824 by Augustin Pyramus de Boronia Mollis tion. Candolle. Commonly known as the Soft Boronia "Telopea Valley Star" is a Boronia Megastigma Boronia, is a plant in the citrus fam- hybrid between this species and ily occurring in eastern Australia. Boronia mollis, which is hardier Is a species of shrub in the citrus Seen between a half of a metre to and has been grown in Australian family known by the common two metres tall, it is found in moist gardens. name brown boronia. This is one of gullies usually on sandstone based several species of Boronia cultivat- soils. The leaves have an unpleas- Boronia Imlayensis ed for its intense, attractive scent. It ant citrus/bitumen type scent. is the main Boronia source of Typical Boronia looking flowers Commonly known as the Mount essential oils, while its relative form in spring from cymes in the Imlay Boronia, is a shrub of the Boronia heterophylla is more often leaf axils. The specific epithet mol- genus Boronia which has been harvested for use as an aromatic cut lis refers to the soft hairs and soft recorded only on the sandstone ornamental. B. megastigma is a leaves. The original specimen was ridge near the summit of Mount small shrub approaching a meter in collected by the Nepean River in Imlay, in Australia. A small shrub maximum height. The narrow, 1825, and officially described in to 1 m (3 ft) high with pinnate thick, linear leaves are arranged in 1841 leaves and pink to white flowers, it whorls about the thin stem branch- is found in eucalypt woodland. To es. They are dark green and glandu- Boronia molloyae (commonly date (May 2010) this species is nei- lar, and are scented, but it is the called the Tall Boronia) is a shrub ther protected nor recognised as flower of the plant which is coveted in the Boronia genus that grows in threatened for its oils. All of the organs of the sandy soils in South West coastal flower contain oil glands and their regions of Western Australia. It is a Boronia Ledifolia activity is greatest while the stigma slender shrub with springtime red- is receptive to pollen, which sug- pink flowers commonly found Commonly known as the Sydney gests that production of scent may along creeks, streams and swamps. Boronia, Showy Boronia or Ledum serve to attract pollinators such as It grows to about 3 metres. Boronia is a shrub of the genus insects. In the wild plant, each Boronia. A popular and well known flower is about a centimeter wide James Drummond proposed the species seen by bushwalkers in the and shaped like a cup which is name Boronia molloyi in 1842, Sydney region. It grows from as far brown or dark reddish-purple exter- however this was overlooked and it south as the state of Victoria to as nally and bright yellow inside. was named B. elatior in 1844 by far north as Tenterfield, New South There are several cultivated vari- Friedrich Gottlieb Bartling and as Wales. Commonly seen on infertile eties which bear flowers of differ- B. semifertilis in 1861 by sandstone or granite based soils, ent colors. The two main aroma Ferdinand von Mueller. In the which have regular wild fires. compounds of the oil of this species 1970s B. elatior was renamed to its are ?-ionone and dodecyl acetate. current name, adjusted with the Boronia ledifolia was first The oil is used in perfumes and as a feminine latinate suffix It is the described as Lasiopetalum ledifoli- food additive that enhances fruit only plant named after botanical um by the French botanist Étienne flavors. collector Georgiana Molloy. Pierre Ventenat in 1803, before being given its current name in

42 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Boronia Muelleri (Forest Boronia) is a shrub about 1m high. It has crowded rhomboid leaves and Is a flowering plant that occurs in bright pink cup-shaped flowers open forest in Victoria and New with a pleasant fragrance. Like South Wales in Australia. It grows many other Boronias, the leaves are to between 0.8 and 3 metres in strongly aromatic when crushed height and has scented, pinnate leaves which have 7 and 17 leaflets, Boronia serrulata was first each 5 to 25 mm long and 1 to 3 described by James Edward Smith mm wide. Pale pink flowers appear in 1798. between October and February in the species native range. These are Its natural distribution is restricted produced in clusters of 1 to 7 on 7 to Hawkesbury sandstone of the to 15 mm long pedicels. Sydney basin where it often grows around exposed sandstone outcrops Two cultivars are registered with the Australian Cultivar Registration Authority, 'Snowy River' and 'Sunset Serenade

Boronia Pinnata is a plant in the Boronia genus that grows on sandstone soils in New South Wales. It is a common species that is found from coastal up to lower mountain levels.

Boronia Safrolifera commonly known as Safrole Boronia, is a flowering plant that is endemic to south-eastern Australia. It grows to between 0.5 and 1 metres high and has pinnate leaves. Deep pink, pale pink or white four- petalled flowers appear between August and November in the species native range.

Boronia Serrulata

Commonly called the Native Rose)

43 Glen O. Brechbill

Broom

Brooms are a group of evergreen, which kill the above-ground parts Broom is used as a food source by semi-evergreen, and deciduous of the plants, but create conditions the larvae of some Lepidoptera shrubs in the subfamily Faboideae for regrowth from the roots and species see list of Lepidoptera that of the legume family Fabaceae, also for germination of stored seeds feed on brooms. mainly in the three genera in the soil. Chamaecytisus, Cytisus and Cultivation Genista, but also in many other Species of Broom small genera. All genera in this Cytisus scoparius, Common group are from the tribe Genisteae. The most widely familiar is com- Broom. 1. Two-lipped calyx. 2. These genera are all closely related mon broom (Cytisus scoparius, Broadly ovate vexillum or stan- and share similar characteristics of syn. Sarothamnus scoparius), a dard. 3. One of the alae or wings of dense, slender green stems and very native of northwestern Europe, the corolla. 4. Carina or keel. 5. small leaves, which are adaptations where it is found in sunny sites, Monadelphous stamens. 6. Hairy to dry growing conditions. Most of usually on dry, sandy soils. Like ovary with the long style, thickened the species have yellow flowers, most brooms, it has apparently leaf- upwards, and spirally curved. 7. but a few have white, orange, red, less stems that in spring and sum- Legume or pod. pink or purple flowers. mer are covered in profuse golden- yellow flowers. In late summer, its Brooms tolerate (and often thrive Two other close relatives are Ulex peapod-like seed capsules burst best in) poor soils and growing con- (gorse) and Laburnum (laburnum), open, often with an audible pop, ditions. In cultivation they need lit- but these differ more strongly in spreading seed from the parent tle care, though they need good appearance from the brooms. Some plant. It makes a shrub about 1–3m drainage and perform poorly on wet botanists include Podocytisus cara- tall, rarely to 4 m. It is also the soils. manicus in the genus Laburnum. hardiest broom, tolerating temperatures down to about -25°C. They are widely used as ornamental All the brooms and their relatives landscape plants and also for waste- (including Laburnum and Ulex) are The largest species of broom is land reclamation (e.g. mine tail- natives of Europe, north Africa and Mount Etna broom (Genista aet- ings) and sand dune stabilising. southwest Asia, with the greatest nensis), which can make a small diversity in the Mediterranean tree to 10 m tall; by contrast, some Tagasaste (Chamaecytisus pro- region. Many brooms (though not other species, e.g. dyer's broom liferus syn. C. palmensis), a Canary all) are fire-climax species, adapted Genista tinctoria, are low sub- Islands native, is widely grown as to regular stand-replacing fires shrubs, barely woody at all. sheep fodder.

44 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Species of broom popular in horti- Historical Uses during pregnancy. culture are purple broom (Chamaecytisus purpureus; purple The Plantagenet kings used com- Folklore and Myth flowers), Atlas broom (or mon broom (known as "planta Moroccan broom) (Argyrocytisus genista" in Latin) as an emblem and In Welsh mythology, Blodeuwedd battandieri, syn. Cytisus bat- took their name from it. It was orig- is the name of a woman made from tandieri, with silvery foliage), inally the emblem of Geoffrey of the flowers of broom, mead- dwarf broom (Cytisus procum- Anjou, father of Henry II of owsweet and the oak by Math fab bens), Provence broom (Cytisus England. Wild broom is still com- Mathonwy and Gwydion to be the purgans) and Spanish broom mon in dry habitats around Anjou, wife of Lleu Llaw Gyffes. Her story (Spartium junceum). France. is part of the Fourth Branch of the Mabinogi, the tale of Math son of Many of the most popular brooms Charles V and his son Charles VI Mathonwy. in gardens are hybrids, notably used the pod of the broom plant Kew broom (Cytisus × kewensis, (broom-cod, or "cosse de geneste") A traditional rhyme from Sussex hybrid between C. ardoinii and C. as an emblem for livery collars and says: "Sweep the house with multiflorus) and Warminster broom badges. blossed broom in May/sweep the (Cytisus × praecox, hybrid between head of the household away." C. purgans and C. multiflorus). Genista tinctoria (dyer's broom, Despite this, it was also common to [edit] Invasive species also known as dyer's greenweed or include a decorated bundle of dyer's greenwood), provides a use- broom at weddings. Ashes of In some areas of North America, ful yellow dye and was grown com- broom were used to treat dropsy, common broom, introduced as an mercially for this purpose in parts while its strong smell was said to be ornamental plant, has become natu- of Britain into the early 19th centu- able to tame wild horses and dogs. ralised and an invasive weed due to ry. Woollen cloth, mordanted with its aggressive seed dispersal; it has alum, was dyed yellow with dyer's proved very difficult to eradicate. greenweed, then dipped into a vat Similarly, it is a major problem of blue dye (woad or, later, indigo) species in the cooler and wetter to produce the once-famous areas of southern Australia and "Kendal Green" (largely supersed- New Zealand. Biological control ed by the brighter "Saxon Green" in for broom in New Zealand has been the 1770s). Kendal green is a local investigated since the mid 1980s. common name for the plant. On the west coast of the United States, French broom (Genista The flower buds and flowers of monspessulana), Mediterranean Cytisus scoparius have been used broom (Genista linifolia) and as a salad ingredient, raw or pick- Spanish broom (Spartium junceum) led, and were a popular ingredient are also considered noxious inva- for salmagundi or "grand sallet" sives, as they are quickly crowding during the 17th and 18th century. out native vegetation, and grow There are now concerns about the most prolifically in the least acces- toxicity of broom, with potential sible areas. effects on the heart and problems

45 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cananga_o

Glen O. Brechbill

Cananga

commonly called Ylang-ylang, grant essential oil. Sesquiterpenes cananga tree, ilang-ilang, kenanga (Indonesian), fragrant cananga, Cananga odorata var. fruticosa, Etymology Macassar-oil plant or perfume dwarf ylang-ylang, grows as small tree), is a tree valued for its per- tree or compact shrub with highly The name ylang-ylang is derived fume. The essential oil derived scented flowers. from Tagalog, either from the word from the flowers is used in aro- ilang, meaning "wilderness", allud- matherapy. Ylang-ylang has been cultivated in ing to its natural habitat, or the temperate climates under conserva- word ilang-ilan, meaning "rare", Artabotrys odoratissimus, ylang- tory conditions. suggestive of its exceptionally deli- ylang vine, and Artabotrys hexa- cate scent. A more widely accepted petalus, climbing ylang-ylang,are Its clusters of black fruit are an translation is "flower of woody, evergreen climbing plants important food item for birds, such flowers".The plant is native to the in the same family; A. odoratis- as the Collared Imperial-pigeon, Philippines and Indonesia and is simus is also a source of perfume. Purple-tailed Imperial-pigeon, commonly grown in Polynesia, Zoe's Imperial-pigeon, Superb Melanesia, Micronesia and Description Fruit-dove, Pink-spotted Fruit- Comoros Islands. dove, Coroneted Fruit-dove, Cananga odorata is a fast-growing Orange-bellied Fruit-dove, and Characteristics tree of the custard-apple family, Wompoo Fruit-dove. Annonaceae, that exceeds 5 m (15 The fragrance of ylang-ylang is rich ft) per year and attains an average Chemical Constituents and deep with notes of rubber and height of 12 m (40 ft). It grows in custard, and bright with hints of full or partial sun, and prefers the Typical chemical compositions of jasmine and neroli. The essential acidic soils of its native rainforest the various grades of Ylang ylang oil of the flower is obtained through habitat. The evergreen leaves are are reported as follows: steam distillation of the flowers and smooth and glossy, oval, pointed, separated into different grades with wavy margins, and 13–20 cm Linalool (extra; 1; 2; 3) according to when (5–8 in) long. The flower is droop- Germacrene the distillates are obtained. The ing, long-stalked, with six narrow Geranyl acetate main aromatic components of greenish yellow (rarely pink) Caryophyllene ylang-ylang oil are benzyl acetate, petals, rather like a sea star in p-cresyl methyl ether linalool, p-cresyl methyl ether, and appearance, and yields a highly fra- Methyl benzoate methyl benzoate, responsible for its

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance characteristic odor.

Uses

The essential oil of ylang-ylang is used in aromatherapy. It is believed to relieve high blood pressure, nor- malize sebum secretion for skin problems, and is considered to be an aphrodisiac. According to Margaret Mead, it was used as such by South Pacific natives such as the Samoan Islanders where she did much of her research. The oil from ylang-ylang is widely used in perfumery for oriental or floral themed perfumes (like Chanel No. 5). Ylang-ylang blends well with most floral, fruit and wood smells.

In Indonesia, ylang-ylang flowers are spread on the bed of newlywed couples. In the Philippines, its flowers, together with the flowers of the sampaguita, are strung into a necklace (lei) and worn by women and used to adorn religious images.

Ylang-ylang's essential oil makes up 29% of the Comoros' annual export (1998).

Ylang Ylang is a common ingredient in the herbal motion sickness product MotionEaze.

47 Glen O. Brechbill

Carnation

Dianthus caryophyllus (Clove producer in the world. Virgin Mary shed tears at Jesus' Pink) is a species of Dianthus. It is plight, and carnations sprang up probably native to the Traditional Meanings from where her tears fell. Thus the Mediterranean region but its exact pink carnation became the symbol range is unknown due to extensive For the most part, carnations of a mother's undying love. cultivation for the last 2,000 years. express love, fascination, and dis- It is the wild ancestor of the garden tinction, though there are many Carnation is the birth flower for carnation. variations dependent on colour. those born in the month of January.

It is an herbaceous perennial plant Light red carnations represent The formal name for carnation, growing to 80 cm tall. The leaves admiration, while dark red denote dianthus, comes from Greek for are glaucous greyish green to blue- deep love and affection. "heavenly flower", or the flower of green, slender, up to 15 cm long. Jove. The flowers are produced singly or White carnations represent pure up to five together in a cyme; they love and good luck, while striped Mural commemorating the are 3–5 cm diameter, and sweetly (variegated) carnations symbolise Portuguese Carnation Revolution scented; the original natural flower regret that a love cannot be shared. colour is bright pinkish-purple, but Holidays and Events cultivars of other colours, including Purple carnations indicate capri- red, white, yellow and green, have ciousness. In France, it is a tradi- Carnations are often worn on spe- been developed. tional funeral flower, given in con- cial occasions, especially Mother's dolence for the death of a loved Day and weddings. In 1907 Anna Growing Carnations one. Jarvis chose a carnation as the emblem of Mother's Day because it Carnations require well-drained, In France and Francophone cul- was the favourite flower of her neutral to slightly alkaline soil, and tures, carnations symbolize misfor- mother. This tradition is now full sun. Numerous cultivars have tune and bad luck.[citation needed] observed in the United States and been selected for garden planting. Canada on the second Sunday in Typical examples include 'Gina Pink carnations have the most sym- May. Ann Jarvis chose the white Porto', 'Helen', 'Laced Romeo', 'Red bolic and historical significance. carnation because she wanted to Rocket'. According to a Christian legend, represent the purity of a mother's carnations first appeared on Earth love. This meaning has evolved Colombia is the largest carnation as Jesus carried the Cross. The over time, and now a red carnation

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance may be worn if one's mother is was a white carnation that was kept members Kappa Kappa Psi, and of alive, and a white one if she has in a red inkpot between exams, so the Eta Phi Beta, Lambda Phi Chi died. by the last exam it was fully red. It and Alpha Chi Omega sororities. is thought to originate in the late In Korea, red and pink Carnations 1990s. Rose carnations are the official are used for showing their love and flower of the Phi Mu Fraternity. gratitude toward their parents on Carnations painted by Pierre- Parents Day (Korea does not sepa- Joseph Redouté Pink carnations are the official rate Mother's Day and Father's Day, flower of the Gamma Phi Beta but has Parents Day on 8 May). Symbols of territorial entities and sorority, as they are the longest last- Sometimes, you can see parents organizations ing flowers. wear a corsage of Carnation(s) on their left chest on Parents Day. Not Carnation is the national flower of Wine carnations are the official only on Parents Day, but also on Spain, Monaco, and Slovenia, and flower of the Pi Beta Phi Women's Teacher's Day (15 May), people the provincial flower of the Fraternity. express their admiration and grati- autonomous community of the tude to their teachers with Balearic Islands. The state flower Colors Carnations, as Carnation has the of Ohio is a scarlet carnation, meaning of 'admiration', 'love', and which was introduced to the state Carnations do not naturally pro- 'gratitude'. by Levi L. Lamborn. The choice duce the pigment delphinidin, thus was made to honour William a blue carnation cannot occur by Red carnations are worn on May McKinley, Ohio Governor and U.S. natural selection or be created by Day as a symbol of the labor move- President, who was assassinated in traditional plant breeding. It shares ment in some countries, such as 1901, and regularly wore a scarlet this characteristic with other widely Austria, Italy, and successor coun- carnation on his lapel. sold flowers like roses, lillies, tries of former Yugoslavia. Red car- chrysanthemums and gerberas. nation is also the symbol of the White carnations are the official Portuguese Carnation Revolution. flower of the fraternities Lambda Around 1996 a company used Theta Phi, Phi Delta Theta, Delta genetic manipulation to extract cer- Green carnations are for St. Chi, Delta Sigma Phi, Phi Beta tain genes from petunia and snap- Patrick's Day and were famously Sigma, and Zeta Psi, as well as for dragon flowers to produce a blue- worn by the Irish writer Oscar the sororities Alpha Pi Chi, Chi mauve carnation, which was com- Wilde. The green carnation thence Omega. mercialized as Moondust. In 1998 a became a symbol of homosexuality violet carnation called Moon shad- in the early 20th century. Red carnations are originally the ow was commercialized. As of official flower of Theta Delta Chi. 2004 three additional blue- At the University of Oxford, carna- They are also the flower of Sigma violet/purple varieties have been tions are traditionally worn to all Lambda Beta, Phi Iota Alpha, Phi commercialized. examinations; white for the first Kappa Tau, Tau Kappa Epsilon, exam, pink for exams in between Theta Chi fraternities, the national Etymology and a red for the last exam. One professional chemistry fraternity suggested reason for this tradition Alpha Chi Sigma, the national hon- Carnations were mentioned in is a story that tells that initially this orary fraternity for college band- Greek literature 2,000 years ago.

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

"Dianthus" was coined by Greek botanist Theophrastus, and is derived from the Greek words for divine ("dios") and flower ("anthos"). Some scholars believe that the name "carnation" comes from "coronation" or "corone" (flower garlands), as it was one of the flowers used in Greek ceremo- nial crowns. Others think the name stems from the Latin "caro" (geni- tive "carnis") (flesh), which refers to the original colour of the flower, or incarnatio (incarnation), which refers to the incarnation of God made flesh.

Although originally applied to the species Dianthus caryophyllus, the name Carnation is also often applied to some of the other species of Dianthus, and more particularly to garden hybrids between D. caryophyllus and other species in the genus.

50 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Cassie

Vachellia farnesiana, also known as Farnese (1573–1626) of the notable Flowers Acacia farnesiana, commonly Italian Farnese family which, after known as Needle Bush, is so named 1550, under the patronage of cardi- The flowers are processed through because of the numerous thorns dis- nal Alessandro Farnese, maintained distillation to produce a perfume tributed along its branches. The some of the first private European called Cassie. It is widely used in native range of V. farnesiana is botanical gardens in Rome, in the the perfume industry in Europe. uncertain. While the point of origin 16th and 17th centuries. Under Flowers of the plant provide the is Mexico and Central America the stewardship of these Farnese perfume essence from which the species has a pantropical distribu- Gardens this acacia was imported biologically important sesquiter- tion incorporating Northern to Italy. The plant itself was penoid farnesol is named. Australia and Southern Asia. It brought to the Farnese Gardens remains unclear whether the extra- from the Caribbean and Central Scented ointments from Cassie are American distribution is primarily America, where it originates. made in India natural or anthropogenic. It is Analysis of essences of the floral deciduous over part of its range, but extract from this plant, long used in Vachellia farnesiana (L.) Willd. - evergreen in most locales. The perfumery, resulted in the name for sweet acacia seeds species grows to a height of up to 8 the sesquiterpene biosynthetic metres (26 ft)[4] and has a life span chemical farnesol, found as a basic Foliage of about 25–50 years. sterol precursor in plants, and cho- lesterol precursor in animals. The foliage is a significant source Spread to many new locations as a of forage in much of its range, with result of human activity and it is Bark a protein content of around 18%. considered a serious weed in Fiji, where locals call it Ellington's The bark is used for its tannin con- Seed Pods Curse. It thrives in dry, saline or tent. Highly tannic barks are com- sodic soils. It is also a serious pest mon in general to acacias, extracts The concentration of tannin in the plant in parts of Australia, includ- of many being are used in medicine seed pods is about 23%. ing north-west New South Wales, for this reason. where it now infests thousands of Seeds acres of grazing country. Food The seeds of V. farnesiana are com- The taxon name "farnesiana" is "Roasted pods used in sweet and pletely non-toxic to humans and are specially named after Odoardo sour dishes." a valuable food source for people

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill throughout the plant's range. The lamine; tyramine; hordenine; N,N- Cashia, (Bahamas, USA) ripe seeds are put through a press to dimethyl-phenethylamine: and Opoponax, make oil for cooking.[12] N,N-dimethyl-.alpha.- Cashaw, (Belize) Nonetheless an anecdotal report has methylphenethylamine, in the Cuntich, (Jamaica) been made that in Brazil some peo- "leaves, bark, and roots." Cassie-flower, ple use the seeds of V. farnesiana to Cassie, eliminate rabid dogs.[4] This is The following compounds are said Iron Wood, attributed to an unnamed toxic to be in Vachellia farnesiana: Cassie Flower, alkaloid. Honey-ball, 5-MeO-DMT Casha Tree, Casha, (Virgin Islands) Dyes & Inks Cassia, (Fiji) Tryptamine Ellington's Curse, A black pigment is extracted from Cushuh, (St. Maarten), the bark and fruit. ?-methyl-phenethylamine, flower. Huizache (Mexico).

Perfume Ether extracts about 2-6% of the Botanical Varieties dried leaf mass. Alkaloids are pres- Acaci farnesiana flowers are dis- ent in the bark. Vachellia farnesiana var. farnesiana tilled in the south of France to make an essential oil called Cassie which Common Names Vachellia farnesiana var. guanacas- is used as a basis for aromatherapy tensis H.D.Clarke et al. and perfume. Farnese Wattle, Dead Finish, Traditional Medicine Mimosa Wattle, Mimosa bush, The bark and the flowers are the Prickly Mimosa Bush, parts of the tree most used in tradi- Prickly Moses, tional medicine. V. farnesiana has Needle Bush, been used in Colombia to treat North-west Curara, malaria, and it has been confirmed Sheep's Briar, in the laboratory that extract from Sponge Wattle, the tree bark and leaves is effective Sweet Acacia, against the malarial pathogen Thorny Acacia, Plasmodium falciparum. Indi- Thorny Feather Wattle, genous Australians have used the Wild Briar, Huisache, roots and bark of the tree to treat Cassie, diarrhea and diseases of the skin. Cascalotte, The tree's leaves can also be rubbed Cassic, on the skin to treat skin diseases. Mealy Wattle, Popinac, One or more alkaloids present in Sweet Briar, Vachellia farnesiana: "phenethy- Texas Huisache, lamine; N-methly-.beta.-phenethy- Aroma, (Bahamas)

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Champaca

Magnolia champaca is a large ever- guage; Chenbakam/Chenpakam in ornament as well as a natural per- green tree, native to the Indomalaya Tamil; Chenbagam in Malayalam; fume. Flowers are used to be float- ecozone (consisting of South Asia, shornochampa (golden champa), in ed in bowls of water to scent the Southeast Asia and some parts of Bengali; champa, cempaka, samp- room, as a fragrant decoration for China). It is best known for its enga and sampangi in Telugu; bridal beds, and for strongly fragrant yellow or white Sampige in Kannada; and shamba. garlands."Magnolia champaca flowers. It is, however, primarily All other names above apply to however is more rare and has a cultivated for its timber, and is also Plumeria varieties as well, with the strong perfume, and is not that used in urban landscaping. Its aril- exception of Sonchaaphaa, which is commonly or plentifully used - for covered seeds are highly attractive used exclusively for this particular example in hair it is worn singly or to birds subvariety in Western India. Some as a small corsage but rarely as a half a dozen varieties of Plumeria whole garland, and for bridal beds Varieties together with Magnolia champaca it is most often jasmine and roses (three varieties) and two varieties while for bowls of water to be This species occurs in varying of Ylang Ylang are generically placed around rooms usually other, shades of cream to yellow-orange. called Chaaphaa in Marathi, though more colourful for visual decora- In China, M. champaca var. pubin- in some cases, a further descriptor tion and less strongly perfumed ervia is documented. Magnolia × is added: the red plumeria variety, flowers are used." The flower is alba is a hybrid cultivar of M. for instance, is Dev Chaaphaa or sometimes commonly called the champaca. In Thailand, there has God's Champa, and the two Ylang 'Joy perfume tree.' Many niche per- been some purported man-made Ylang varieties each have a sepa- fumers are now once again using hybrids with other magnolia rate name as well. Champaca Absolute as single note species including Magnolia liliifera fragrances, notably Ormonde Jayne and Magnolia coco. Uses Perfumery launched in 2002 Champaca, Tom Ford Champaca Etymology Perfume Absolute and Comme des Garcons.

The species epithet, champaca, The flowers are used in Southeast Cultivation comes from the Sanskrit word cam- Asia for several purposes. They are paka (pronounced t?a?paka). primarily used for worship at tem- Magnolia champaca is cultivated Common names in other languages ples whether at home or out, and and used as an ornamental tree in include champaca, champak; more generally worn in hair by girls temperate climate gardens, such as Sonchaaphaa in the Marathi lan- and women as a means of beauty in coastal California.

53 Glen O. Brechbill

Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums, often called transferred to the genus Glebionis. tion needed], and the Emperor mums or chrysanths, are of the The other genera separate from adopted the flower as his official genus (Chrysanthemum) constitut- Chrysanthemum include Argy- seal. There is a "Festival of ing approximately 30 species of ranthemum, Leucan-themopsis, Happiness" in Japan that celebrates perennial flowering plants in the Leucanthemum, Rhodan-themum, the flower. family Asteraceae which is native and Tanacetum. to Asia and northeastern Europe. The flower was brought to Europe Chrysanthemum are herbaceous in the 17th century. Linnaeus Etymology perennial plants growing to 50–150 named it from the Greek word cm tall, with deeply lobed leaves chrysous, "golden" (the colour of The name Chrysanthemum is with large flower heads that are the original flowers), and -anthe- derived from the Greek words, generally white, yellow or pink in mon, meaning flower. chrysos (gold) and anthemon the wild and are the preferred diet (flower). of larvae of certain lepidoptera species see list of Lepidoptera that The genus once included more feed on chrysanthemums. species, but was split several decades ago into several genera, History putting the economically important florist's chrysanthemum in the Historical painting of Chry-santhe- genus Dendranthema. The naming mums from the New International of the genera has been contentious, Encyclopedia 1902. but a ruling of the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature in Chrysanthemums were first culti- 1999 changed the defining species vated in China as a flowering herb of the genus to Chrysanthemum as far back as the 15th century BC. indicum, restoring the florist's The plant is renowned as one of the chrysanthemum to the genus Four Gentlemen in Chinese and Chrysanthemum. East Asian art. The plant is particularly significant during the Double The other species previously Ninth Festival. It is believed that included in the narrow view of the the flower may have been brought genus Chrysanthemum are now to Japan in the 8th century AD[cita-

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Freesia

Ecklon ex Klatt is a genus of 14–16 Freesia Leichtlinii Should be planted in the fall in species of flowering plants in the Freesia Occidentalis Zones 9-10 and in the spring in family Iridaceae, native to Africa. Freesia Refracta Zones 4-8 Of the 14 species, 12 are native to Freesia Sparrmannii Cape Province, South Africa, the Freesia Speciosa remaining two to tropical Africa, Freesia Verrucosa one species extending north of the Freesia Viridis ( syn. Anomatheca equator to Sudan. viridis )

The genus was named in honor of Freesias are used as food plants by Friedrich Heinrich Theodor Freese the larvae of some Lepidoptera (1795–1876), German physician. species including Large Yellow Underwing. They are herbaceous plants which grow from a corm 1–2.5 cm diame- Cultivation and Uses ter, which sends up a tuft of narrow leaves 10–30 cm long, and a Freesias are very popular garden sparsely branched stem 10–40 cm plants, grown for their often strong- tall bearing a few leaves and a loose ly scented flowers. The most com- one-sided spike of fragrant narrow- monly cultivated species is F. ly funnel-shaped flowers. refracta, which was crossed with F. leichtlinii in the 19th century. Species Numerous cultivars have been bred from these species and the pink- Freesia Alba and yellow-flowered forms of F. Freesia Andersoniae corymbosa. Modern tetraploid cul- Freesia Caryophyllacea tivars have flowers ranging from Freesia Corymbosa white to yellow, pink, red and blue- Freesia Fergusoniae mauve. They are widely cultivated Freesia fucata and readily increased from seed. Freesia Grandiflora Due to their specific and pleasing Freesia Laxa (syn. Anomatheca scent, they are often used in hand laxa, Lapeirousia laxa) creams, shampoos, candles, etc.

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Gardenia

Gardenia is a genus of 142 species Gardenia brighamii H.Mann - Na- Kuykend. (Hawai?i) of flowering plants in the coffee nu- (Hawai?i) family, Rubiaceae, native to the Gardenia remyi H.Mann (Hawai?i) tropical and subtropical regions of Gardenia buffalina (Lour.) Poir. in Africa, southern Asia, Australasia J.B.A.M.de Lamarck (= Genipa Gardenia resinifera Roth (Brilliant and Oceania. buffalina) Gardenia, Cambi Resin Tree, or dikamali) India. Shrub or small The genus was named by Carl Gardenia carinata India, Malaya. tree, to 3 m high. (= G. lucida, Linnaeus after Dr. Alexander Genipa resinifera) Garden (1730-1791), a Scottish- Gardenia cornuta (Natal Gardenia). born American naturalist. South Africa. Gardenia resiniflua (Gummy Gardenia). South Africa. They are evergreen shrubs and Gardenia flava (Lour.) Poir. in small trees growing to 1–15 metres J.B.A.M.de Lamarck (= Genipa Gardenia rutenbergiana (Baill. ex (3.3–49 ft) tall. The leaves are flava) Vatke) J.-F.Leroy (= Genipa ruten- opposite or in whorls of three or bergiana) four, 5–50 centimetres (2.0–20 in) Gardenia fortunei Eastern Asia. long and 3–25 centimetres (1.2–9.8 Gardenia scabrella far north in) broad, dark green and glossy Gardenia gummifera India. Small Queensland- used in amenities with a leathery texture. The flowers tree, to 3 m high. plantings in Cairns are solitary or in small clusters, white, or pale yellow, with a tubu- Gardenia imperialis Tropical Gardenia spatulifolia South Africa. lar-based corolla with 5-12 lobes Africa. Small tree to 12 m. (petals) from 5–12 centimetres Gardenia taitensis (Tahitian (2.0–4.7 in) diameter. Flowering is Gardenia jasminoides (Common Gardenia, Tiare ma-ori). Polynesia. from about mid-spring to mid-sum- Gardenia, Cape Jasmine or Cape mer and many species are strongly Jessamine). Southern China and Gardenia ternifolia (Large-leaved scented. Japan. Transvaal Gardenia). South Africa.

Selected Species Gardenia latifolia India. Shrub or Gardenia ternifolia ssp. jovis- tree, 5-10 m high. tonantis (Welw.) Verdc. (= G. jovis- Gardenia anapetes Smith tonantis, Genipa jovis-tonantis) Gardenia mannii H.St.John &

56 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Gardenia thunbergia (White In China and Japan, Gardenia jas- Gardenia, Forest Gardenia, or minoides is called Zhi zi and witkatjiepiering) South Africa. Kuchinashi; the bloom is used as a Shrub or small tree, 2-5 m high. yellow dye, which is used for clothes and food (including the Gardenia tubifera (Golden Korean mung bean jelly called Gardenia). Southeastern Asia. hwangpomuk). Its fruits are also Small tree to 15 m high. used in traditional Chinese medicine for their clearing, calming, and Gardenia turgida India. Shrub or cooling properties. small tree to 4 m high, with spines. In France, decades ago, gardenias Gardenia volkensii (Transvaal were the traditional flower which Gardenia or Savanna Gardenia). men sometimes wore as bouton- Tropical Africa. nières on special occasions.

Cultivation and Uses Sigmund Freud remarked to the poet H.D. that gardenias were his Gardenia plants are prized for the favorite flower. strong sweet scent of their flowers, which can be very large in size in It is the national flower of Pakistan. some species. Jazz singer Billie Holiday was Gardenia jasminoides (syn. G. known to wear gardenias in her grandiflora, G. Florida) is cultivat- hair, one of her most noticeable fea- ed as a house plant. This species tures. She called them her trade- can be difficult to grow because it mark. originated in warm humid tropical areas. It demands high humidity to Several species occur on Hawaii, thrive and bright (not direct) light. where gardenias are known as na?u It flourishes in acidic soils with or na-nu-. good drainage and thrives on [68- 74 F temperatures (20-23 C)] dur- Crocetin is a chemical compound ing the day and 60 F (15-16 C) in found in gardenia fruit (Gardenia the evening. Potting soils devel- jasminoides Ellis). In high concen- oped especially for gardenias are trations, it has protective effects available. G. jasminoides grows no against retinal damage in vitro and larger than 18 inches in height and in vivo. width when grown indoors. In climates where it can be grown out- doors, it can attain a height of 6 feet. If water touches the flowers, they will turn brown.

57 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geraniu

Glen O. Brechbill

Geranium

is a genus of 422 species of flower- flower. The common name cranes- guish them from the less hardy ing annual, biennial, and perennial bill comes from the shape of the un- pelargoniums (generally grown as plants that are commonly known as sprung column, which in some annuals in temperate climes), and the cranesbills. It is found through- species is long and looks like the most garden "geraniums" (without out the temperate regions of the bill of a crane. Many species in this the 'hardy' appellation) are in fact world and the mountains of the genus do not have a long beak-like pelargoniums (storksbills), as tropics, but mostly in the eastern column. opposed to true geraniums (cranes- part of the Mediterranean region. bills). The long, palmately cleft leaves are Cranesbills are eaten by the larvae broadly circular in form. The flow- of some Lepidoptera species Other former members of the genus ers have 5 petals and are coloured including Brown-tail and Mouse are now classified in genus white, pink, purple or blue, often Moth. Erodium, including the plants with distinctive veining. Geraniums known as filarees in North will grow in any soil as long as it is The species Geranium viscosissi- America. not waterlogged. Propagation is by mum is considered to be protocar- semi-ripe cuttings in summer, by nivorous. Structure seed, or by division in autumn or spring. Confusion with Pelargoniums The shape of the flowers offers one way of distinguishing between the The genus name is derived from the Confusingly, "geranium" is also the two genera Geranium and Greek géranos, or geranós, crane. common name of members of the Pelargonium. Geranium flowers The English name "cranesbill" genus Pelargonium (commonly have five very similar petals, and derives from the appearance of the known as 'storksbill' in distinction are thus radially symmetrical fruit capsule of some of the species. from 'cranesbill'), which are also in (actinomorphic), whereas Species in the Geranium genus the Geraniaceae family. Linnaeus Pelargonium flowers have two have a distinctive mechanism for originally included all the species upper petals which are different seed dispersal. This consists of a in one genus, Geranium, but they from the three lower petals, so that beak-like column which springs were later separated into two gen- the flowers have a single plane of open when ripe and casts the seeds era by Charles L’Héritier in 1789. symmetry (zygomorphic). some distance. The fruit capsule consists of five cells each contain- Gardeners and the horticultural Cultivation ing one seed, joined to a column trade often refer to true geraniums produced from the centre of the old as "hardy geraniums", to distin- A number of geranium species are

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance cultivated for their landscape value cranesbill) and for pharmaceutical products. Some of the more commonly Geranium sylvaticum grown species include: All the above species are perennials Geranium cinereum and generally winter hardy plants, grown for their attractive flowers Geranium clarkei (Clark's gerani- and foliage. They are long lived um) and most have a mounding habit, with palmately lobed foliage. Some Geranium dalmaticum species have spreading rhizomes. They are normally grown in part Geranium endressii shade to full sun, in well draining but moisture retentive soils, that are Geranium fremontii (Fremont's rich in humus. Other perennial geranium) species that are grown for their flowers and foliage include: G. Geranium himalayense often sold argenteum, G. eriostemon, G. far- under Geranium grandiflorum reri, G. nodosum, G. procurrens, G. pylzowianum, G. renardii, G. tra- Geranium ibericum (Caucasus versii, G. tuberosum, G. versicolor, geranium), G. wallichianum and G. wlasso- vianum. Some of these are not win- Geranium macrorrhizum (Bigroot ter hardy in cold areas and are cranesbill or Bigroot geranium) grown in specialized gardens like rock gardens. Geranium x. Geranium maculatum (Wild gerani- 'Johnson's Blue' is a hybridisation um) between G himalayense (Southwestern China), with G Geranium x magnificum (Showy pratense (European Meadow geranium) Crane'sbill).

Geranium phaeum

Geranium platypetalum (Broad- petaled geranium)

Geranium pratense (Meadow cranesbill)

Geranium psilostemon

Geranium sanguineum (Bloody

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Heliotrope

Heliotropium is a genus of flower- Caterpillars of the Grass Jewel Heliotropium procumbens habitus ing plants in the borage family, (Freyeria trochylus), a gossamer- Boraginaceae. There are 250 to 300 winged butterfly, feed on H. strigo- Heliotropium strigosum in Keesara, species in this genus, which are sum. Ranga Reddy district, Andhra commonly known as heliotropes. Pradesh, India. The sap of heliotrope flowers, Etymology namely of European Heliotrope (H. Heliotropium amplexicaule Vahl – europaeum), was used as a food Clasping Heliotrope, Summer The name "heliotrope" derives coloring in Middle Ages and Early Heliotrope, Blue Heliotrope from the old idea that the inflores- Modern French cuisine. cences of these plants turned their Heliotropium anderssonii rows of flowers to the sun. (helios) One of the most famous ragtime is Greek for "sun", (tropein) means piano melodies is Heliotrope Heliotropium anomalum Hook. & "to turn". The Old English name Bouquet, composed in 1907 by Arn. – Polynesian Heliotrope, "turnsole" has the same meaning. Louis Chauvin (the first two Pacific Heliotrope (Pacific Islands) strains) and Scott Joplin (the last Ecology and Human Use two strains). Heliotropium anomalum var. argenteum – Hinahina ku- kahakai Grey Leaf Heliotrope Heliotropium Garden Heliotrope is grown in (Hawaii) ovalifolium at Pocharam lake, Southern Europe as an ingredient Andhra Pradesh, India. for perfume. Heliotropium arborescens – Garden Heliotrope, Common Heliotrope, Several heliotropes are popular gar- Selected Species "cherry pie" den plants, most notably Garden Heliotrope (H. arborescens). Some Heliotropium anomalum var. Heliotropium argenteum species are weeds and many are argenteum hepatotoxic if eaten in large quanti- Heliotropium asperrimum R.Br. ties due to abundant pyrrolizidine European Heliotrope (Helio-tropi- alkaloids. Danainae butterflies like um europaeum) Heliotropium balfourii to visit these plants, as pyrrolizidine alkaloids produce a Indian Turnsole (Heliotropium Heliotropium bracteatum R.Br. kind of "perfume" to attract mates. indicum) inflorescence Heliotropium conocarpum F.Muell.

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance ex Benth. Heliotropium foertherianum Diane Heliotropium prostratum R.Br. & Hilger – Tree Heliotrope, Velvet Heliotropium crispatum F.Muell. Soldierbush, Octopus Bush (South Heliotropium riebeckii ex Benth. Asia, East Asia, Melanesia, western Polynesia, northern Australia) Heliotropium shoabense Heliotropium diversifolium F.Muell. ex Benth. Heliotropium foliatum R.Br. Heliotropium sinuatum (Miers) I.M.Johnst. Heliotropium chenopodiaceum Heliotropium glabellum R.Br. (A.DC.) Clos. Heliotropium socotranum Heliotropium heteranthum Heliotropium claussenii DC. (F.Muell.) Ewart & O.B.Davies Heliotropium stenophyllum

Heliotropium convolvulaceum – Heliotropium indicum L. – Indian Heliotropium strigosum Willd. Sweet-scented Heliotrope, Showy Turnsole Heliotrope Heliotropium tenuifolium R.Br. Heliotropium kuriense Heliotropium curassavicum L. – Heliotropium ventricosum R.Br. Seaside Heliotrope, Salt Heliotropium laceolatum Loefg. Heliotropium wagneri Heliotrope, Monkey Tail, Quail Heliotropium lineariifolium Phil. Plant, "Chinese Parsley"; Cola de Heliotropium aff. wagneri Mico (Spanish) Heliotropium megalanthumn (Samhah, Yemen) I.M.Johnst. Heliotropium dentatum Heliotropium nigricans Heliotropium derafontense Heliotropium paniculatum R.Br. Heliotropium ellipticum Heliotropium pannifolium – St. Heliotropium epacrideum F.Muell. Helena Heliotrope (Saint Helena) ex Benth. (extinct, c.1820)

Heliotropium europaeum L. – Heliotropium pauciflorum R.Br. European Heliotrope, European Turnsole (Europe, Asia, and North Heliotropium paulayanum Africa) Heliotropium peruvianum Heliotropium fasciculatum R.Br. Heliotropium pleiopterum F.Muell. Heliotropium flintii F.Muell. ex A.S.Mitch. Heliotropium procumbens

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Honeysuckle

(Lonicera, play /l??n?s?r?/;[1] syn. or black berry containing several Lonicera altmannii Caprifolium Mill.) are arching seeds; in most species the berries Lonicera angustifolia shrubs or twining vines in the fam- are mildly poisonous, but a few Lonicera anisocalyx ily Caprifoliaceae, native to the (notably Lonicera caerulea) have Lonicera arborea Northern Hemisphere. There are edible berries. The plant is eaten by Lonicera arizonica - Arizona about 180 species of honeysuckle, the larvae of some Lepidoptera Honeysuckle 100 of which occur in China; species - see list of Lepidoptera that Lonicera biflora Europe, India and North America feed on honeysuckles. Lonicera bournei have only about 20 native species Lonicera brevisepala each. Widely known species The name Lonicera stems from Lonicera buchananii include Lonicera periclymenum Adam Lonicer, a Renaissance Lonicera buddleioides (European Honeysuckle or botanist. Lonicera caerulea - Blue-berried Woodbine), Lonicera japonica Honeysuckle (Japanese Honeysuckle, White Several species of Lonicera have Lonicera calcarata Honeysuckle, or Chinese become invasive when introduced Lonicera calvescens Honeysuckle) and Lonicera sem- outside their native range, particu- Lonicera canadensis - American pervirens (Coral Honeysuckle, larly in New Zealand and the Fly Honeysuckle Trumpet Honeysuckle, or United States. Invasive species Lonicera caprifolium - Perfoliate Woodbine Honeysuckle). include L. japonica, L. maackii, L. Honeysuckle Hummingbirds are attracted to the morrowii, and L. tatarica. Lonicera carnosifolis flowers on some of these plants, Lonicera chrysantha - Chrysantha especially L. sempervirens and L. Medicinal Properties Honeysuckle ciliosa (Orange Honeysuckle). Lonicera ciliosa - Orange Honeysuckle is used in herbal Honeysuckle The leaves are opposite, simple cough medicines. Lonicera ciliosissima oval, 1–10 cm long; most are decid- Lonicera cinerea uous but some are evergreen. Many Selected Species Lonicera codonantha of the species have sweetly-scent- Lonicera confusa ed, bell-shaped flowers that pro- Lonicera acuminata Lonicera conjugialis - Purpleflower duce a sweet, edible nectar. Lonicera albiflora - White Honeysuckle Breaking of the Honeysuckle's Honeysuckle Lonicera crassifolia stem will release this powerful Lonicera alpigena - Alpine Lonicera cyanocarpa sweet odor. The fruit is a red, blue Honeysuckle Lonicera dasystyla - Tonkinese

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Honeysuckle Lonicera kawakamii Lonicera praeflorens Lonicera dioica - Limber Lonicera korolkowii - Blueleaf Lonicera prostrata Honeysuckle Honeysuckle Lonicera pyrenaica Lonicera elisae Lonicera lanceolata Lonicera reticulata - Grape Lonicera etrusca - Etruscan honey- Lonicera ligustrina Honeysuckle suckle Lonicera litangensis Lonicera retusa Lonicera fargesii Lonicera longiflora Lonicera rhytidophylla Lonicera ferdinandii Lonicera longituba Lonicera rupicola Lonicera ferruginea Lonicera maackii - Amur Lonicera ruprechtiana - Lonicera flava - Yellow Honeysuckle Manchurian Honeysuckle Honeysuckle Lonicera macrantha Lonicera saccata Lonicera fragilis Lonicera macranthoides Lonicera schneideriana Lonicera fragrantissima - Winter Lonicera maximowiczii Lonicera semenovii Honeysuckle Lonicera microphylla Lonicera sempervirens - Trumpet Lonicera fulvotomentosa Lonicera minuta Honeysuckle Lonicera glutinosa Lonicera minutifolia Lonicera serreana Lonicera graebneri Lonicera modesta Lonicera setifera Lonicera gynochlamydea Lonicera morrowii - Morrow's hon- Lonicera similis Lonicera hellenica - Greek eysuckle Lonicera spinosa Honeysuckle Lonicera mucronata Lonicera splendida - Evergreen Lonicera hemsleyana Lonicera myrtillus Honeysuckle Lonicera heterophylla Lonicera nervosa Lonicera standishii - Standish's Lonicera hildebrandiana - Giant Lonicera nigra - Black-berried Honeysuckle Burmese Honeysuckle Honeysuckle Lonicera stephanocarpa Lonicera hirsuta - Hairy Lonicera nitida - Box or Boxleaf Lonicera subaequalis Honeysuckle honeysuckle Lonicera subhispida Lonicera hispida Lonicera nubium Lonicera sublabiata Lonicera hispidula - Pink Lonicera nummulariifolia Lonicera subspicata - Southern Honeysuckle Lonicera oblata Honeysuckle Lonicera humilis Lonicera oblongifolia - Swamp Fly Lonicera szechuanica Lonicera hypoglauca Honeysuckle Lonicera taipeiensis Lonicera hypoleuca Lonicera oiwakensis Lonicera tangutica Lonicera implexa Lonicera oreodoxa Lonicera tatarica - Tartarian Lonicera inconspicua Lonicera orientalis Honeysuckle Lonicera inodora Lonicera pampaninii Lonicera tatarinowii Lonicera interrupta - Chaparral Lonicera paradoxa Lonicera tomentella Honeysuckle Lonicera periclymenum - Common Lonicera tragophylla Lonicera involucrata - Bearberry (or European) honeysuckle, Lonicera tricalysioides honeysuckle Woodbine Lonicera trichogyne Lonicera japonica - Japanese Lonicera pileata - Privet honey- Lonicera trichosantha Honeysuckle suckle Lonicera trichosepala Lonicera jilongensis Lonicera pilosa - Mexican Lonicera tubuliflora Lonicera kansuensis Honeysuckle Lonicera utahensis - Utah

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Honeysuckle Lonicera villosa - Mountain Fly Honeysuckle Lonicera virgultorum Lonicera webbiana Lonicera xylosteum - (European) Fly Honeysuckle, Dwarf Honeysuckle, Fly Woodbine Lonicera yunnanensis [edit] Formerly placed here

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Hyacinth

Hyacinthus is a small genus of bul- that over 2,000 cultivars were culti- hyacinth bulbs can cause mild irri- bous flowering plants in the family vated in the Netherlands, its chief tation to people with sensitive skin. Asparagaceae, sub family Sci- commercial producer. This Protective gloves may be worn to lloideae. Plants are commonly hyacinth has a single dense spike of avoid irritation. called hyacinths The genus was for- fragrant flowers in shades of red, merly the type genus of the separate blue, white, orange, pink, violet, or Myth Associates with Hyacinth family Hyacinthaceae; prior to that yellow. A form of the common it was placed in the lily family hyacinth is the less hardy and Hyacinth was a beautiful youth Liliaceae. Hyacinthus is native to smaller blue- or white-petalled loved by both the god Apollo and the eastern Mediterranean (from Roman hyacinth of florists. These the West Wind, Zephyr. Apollo and south Turkey to northern Israel), flowers should have indirect sun- Hyacinth took turns at throwing the north-east Iran, and Turkmenistan. light and are to be moderately discus. Hyacinth ran to catch it to watered. impress Apollo, but he was struck Three species are within the genus by the discus as it fell to the ground, Hyacinthus: Several types of brodiea, squill, and and died. A twist in the tale makes other plants that were formerly the wind god Zephyrus responsible Hyacinthus litwinowii classified in the lily family and for the death of Hyacinth.[6] The have flower clusters borne along youth's beauty caused a feud Hyacinthus orientalis - Common, the stalk also have common names between Zephyrus and Apollo. Dutch or Garden Hyacinth with hyacinth in them. Hyacinths Jealous that Hyacinth preferred the should also not be confused with radiant archery god Apollo, Hyacinthus transcaspicus the genus Muscari, which are com- Zephyrus blew Apollo's discus off monly known as grape hyacinths. course, so as to injure and kill Some authorities place H. lit- Hyacinth. Apollo did not allow wonowii and H. transcaspicus in Hyacinths are sometimes associat- Hades to claim Hyacinth. Instead, the related genus Hyacinthella, ed with rebirth. The Hyacinth Apollo made a flower, the hyacinth, which would make Hyacinthus a flower is used in the Haftseen table from Hyacinth's spilled blood. monotypic genus. setting for the Persian New Year celebration Norouz held during the The Dutch, or Common Hyacinth Spring Equinox. of house and garden culture (H. orientalis, native to southwest Asia) Hyacinth bulbs are poisonous; they was so popular in the 18th century contain oxalic acid. Handling

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iris_(p

Glen O. Brechbill

Iris

s a genus of 260 [1] -300 [2] Africa, Asia and across North called "standards". Some smaller species of flowering plants with America. iris species have all six lobes point- showy flowers. It takes its name ing straight outwards, but generally from the Greek word for a rainbow, Irises are perennial herbs, growing limb and standards differ markedly referring to the wide variety of from creeping rhizomes (rhizoma- in appearance. They are united at flower colors found among the tous irises) or, in drier climates, their base into a floral tube that lies many species.[3] As well as being from bulbs (bulbous irises). They above the ovary (known as an infe- the scientific name, iris is also very have long, erect flowering stems rior ovary). The styles divide widely used as a common name for which may be simple or branched, towards the apex into petaloid all Iris species, though some plants solid or hollow, and flattened or branches; this is significant in polli- called thus belong to other closely have a circular cross-section. The nation. related genera. A common name rhizomatous species usually have for some species is 'flags', while the 3–10 basal sword-shaped leaves The iris flower is of interest as an plants of the subgenus Scorpiris are growing in dense clumps. The bul- example of the relation between widely known as 'junos', particular- bous species have cylindrical, basal flowering plants and pollinating ly in horticulture. It is a popular leaves. insects. The shape of the flower and garden flower. the position of the pollen-receiving The inflorescences are fan-shaped and stigmatic surfaces on the outer The genera Belamcanda (blackber- and contain one or more symmetri- petals form a landing-stage for a ry lily), Hermodactylus (snake's cal six-lobed flowers. These grow flying insect, which in probing the head iris), Neomarica (walking iris) on a pedicel or lack a footstalk. The perianth for nectar, will first come and Pardanthopsis are sometimes three sepals, which are spreading or in contact of perianth, then with the included in Iris. droop downwards, are referred to stigmatic stamens in one whorled as "falls". They expand from their surface which is borne on an ovary Description narrow base, which in some of the formed of three carpels. The shelf- rhizomatous irises has a "beard" (a like transverse projection on the The genus is widely distributed tuft of short upright extensions inner whorled underside of the sta- throughout the north temperate growing in its midline), into a mens is beneath the over-arching zone. Their habitats are varied, broader expanded portion ("limb"), style arm below the stigma, so that ranging from cold and montane often adorned with veining, lines or the insect comes in contact with its regions to the grassy slopes, mead- dots. The three, sometimes pollen-covered surface only after owlands and riverbanks of Europe, reduced, petals stand upright, partly passing the stigma; in backing out the Middle East and northern behind the sepal bases. They are of the flower it will come in contact

66 The Floral Notes of Fragrance only with the non-receptive lower Uses The earliest to bloom are species face of the stigma. Thus, an insect like I. junonia and I. reichenbachii, bearing pollen from one flower In Horticulture which flower as early as February will, in entering a second, deposit and March, followed by the dwarf the pollen on the stigma; in backing Irises are extensively grown as forms of I. pumila which blossom out of a flower, the pollen which it ornamental plants in home and during March, April and May. bears will not be rubbed off on the botanical gardens. Presby During the latter month and the fol- stigma of the same flower. Memorial Iris Gardens in New lowing one, most of the larger- Jersey, for example, is a living iris growing "tall bearded" irises The iris fruit is a capsule which museum with over 10,000 plants, bloom, such as the German Iris and opens up in three parts to reveal the while in Europe the most famous its variety florentina, Sweet Iris, numerous seeds within. In some iris garden is arguably the Giardino Hungarian Iris, Lemon-yellow Iris species, these bear an aril. dell'Iris in Florence (Italy) which (I. flavescens), Iris sambucina, I. every year hosts one of the most amoena, and their natural and horti- Systematics and Taxonomy famous iris breeders' competitions cultural hybrids such as those in the world. described under names like I. Up to 300 species many of them neglecta or I. squalens and best natural hybrids have been placed in Bearded rhizomatous (subgenus united unter I. × lurida. the genus Iris. Modern classifica- Iris) irises tions, starting with W. R. Dykes' The section Oncocyclus contains 1913 book, have subdivided them. The most commonly found garden the cushion irises or royal irises, a Dykes referred to the major sub- iris is the bearded German Iris (I. group of plants noted for their groupings as sections, but later germanica), a hybridogenic large, strongly marked flowers. authors have generally called them species, and its numerous cultivars. Between 30 and 60 species are clas- subgenera, while essentially retain- Various wild forms and naturally sified in this section, depending on ing his groupings. Like some older occurring hybrids of the Sweet Iris the authority. Compared with other sources, the influential classifica- (I. pallida) and the Hungarian Iris irises the cushion varieties are tion by G. I. Rodionenko removed (I. variegata) form the basis of most scantily furnished with narrow some groups (particularly the bul- all modern hybrid bearded irises. sickle-shaped leaves and the flow- bous irises) to separate genera, but Median forms of bearded iris (inter- ers are usually borne singly on the even if this is done the genus mediate bearded, or IB; miniature stalks; they are often very dark and remains large and several subgen- tall bearded, or MTB; etc.) are in some almost blackish. The cush- era, sections and/or subsections are derived from crosses between tall ion irises are somewhat fastidious recognised within it. and dwarf varieties. growers, and to be successful with them they must be planted rather In general, modern classifications The bearded irises are easy to culti- shallow in very gritty well-drained usually recognise six subgenera, of vate and propagate, and have soil. They should not be disturbed which five are restricted to the Old become very popular in gardens. in the autumn, and after the leaves World; the sixth (subgenus They grow in any good free garden have withered the roots should be Limniris) has a Holarctic distribu- soil, the smaller and more delicate protected from heavy rains until tion. The two largest subgenera are species needing only the aid of turf growth starts again naturally. further divided into sections. ingredients, either peat or loam, to keep it light and open in texture. The section Regelia, closely allied

67 Glen O. Brechbill to the cushion irises, includes sev- popular in gardening is I. ruthenica, sometimes iris flowers for flavor eral garden hybrids with species in which has much the same require- and color. section Oncocyclus, known as ments and characteristics as the Regelio-cyclus irises. They are best "tall bearded" irises. For orris root production, iris rhi- planted in September or October in zomes are harvested, dried, and warm sunny positions, the rhi- Reticulate-bulbed (subgenus aged for up to 5 years. In this time, zomes being lifted the following Hermodactyloides) irises the fats and oils inside the roots July after the leaves have withered. undergo degradation and oxidation, "Reticulate" irises with their char- which produces many fragrant A truly red bearded iris remains an acteristic bulbs, including the yel- compounds that are valuable in per- unattained goal despite frequent low I. danfordiae, and the various fumery. The scent is said to be sim- hybridizing and selection. There blue-purple I. histrioides, I. reticu- ilar to violets. The aged rhizomes are species and selections, most lata, as well as the smooth-bulbed I. are steam-distilled which produces notably based on the beardless rhi- filifolia, flower as early as February a thick oily compound, known in zomatous Copper Iris (I. fulva), and March. These reticulate-bulbed the perfume industry as "iris but- which have a relatively pure red irises are miniatures and popular ter". color. However, getting this color spring bulbs, being one of the first into a modern bearded iris breed to bloom in the garden. Many of the Iris rhizomes also contain notable has proven very difficult, and thus, smaller species of bulbous iris, amounts of terpenes, and organic the vast majority of irises are in the being liable to perish from excess acids such as ascorbic acid, myris- purple and blue range of the color of moisture, should have a well- tic acid, tridecylenic acid and unde- spectrum, with yellow and whitish drained bed of good but porous soil cylenic acid. Iris rhizomes can be breeds also quite frequent. made up for them, in some sunny toxic. Larger Blue Flag (I. versicol- spot, and in winter should be pro- or) and other species often grown in Beardless rhizomatous (subgenus tected by a covering of half- gardens and widely hybridized con- Limniris) irises decayed leaves or fresh cocos-fibre tain elevated amounts of the toxic refuse. glycoside iridin. These rhizomes Beardless rhizomatous iris types can cause nausea, vomiting, diar- commonly found in the garden are Aromatic Rhizomes rhea, and/or skin irritation, but poi- the Siberian Iris (I. sibirica) and its sonings are not normally fatal. hybrids, and the Japanese Iris (I. Rhizomes of the German Iris (I. Irises should only be used medici- ensata) and its hybrids. "Japanese germanica) and Sweet Iris (I. palli- nally under professional guidance. Iris" is also a catch-all term for the da) are traded as orris root and are Japanese Iris proper (hanasho-bu), used in perfume and medicine, Medical Uses the Blood Iris (I. sanguinea, ayame) though more common in ancient and the Rabbitear Iris (I. laevigata, times than today. Today Iris essen- Iris pallasii Fisch. var. Chinensis kakitsubata). I. unguicularis is a tial oil (absolute) from flowers are Fisch is the source of the anti-can- late-winter-flowering species from sometimes used in aromatherapy as cer principle "Irisquinone" effec- Algeria, with sky-blue flowers sedative medicines. The dried rhi- tive against U14 and Lymph sarco- blotched with yellow, produced (in zomes are also given whole to ma and some other cancers. the Northern Hemisphere) from babies to help in teething. Gin November to March or April. Yet brands such as Bombay Sapphire another beardless rhizomatous iris and Magellan Gin use orris root and

68 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

In Water Purification The artist Philip Hermogenes Furthermore, the fleur-de-lis is the Calderon painted an iris in his 1856 almost-universal symbol of Flowering Yellow Iris (Iris pseuda- work Broken Vows; he followed Scouting and one of the symbols corus) at a treatment pond the principles of the Pre-Raphaelite adopted by the sorority, Kappa Brotherhood. An ancient belief is Kappa Gamma. In water purification, Yellow Iris (I. that the iris serves as a warning to pseudacorus) is used. The roots are be heeded, as it was named for the A stylized Yellow Iris is the symbol usually planted in a substrate (e.g. messenger of Olympus. It also con- of Brussels, since historically, the lava-stone) in a reedbed-setup. The veys images of lost love and silent important Saint Gaugericus Island roots then improve water quality by grief, for young girls were led into was carpeted in them. The iris sym- consuming nutrient pollutants, such the afterlife by Iris. Broken Vows bol is now the sole feature on the as from agricultural runoff. was accompanied with poetry by flag of the Brussels-Capital Region. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow In Art and Symbolism when it was first exhibited. The provincial flower of Québec (Canada) is the Harlequin Blueflag An iris species unspecified is one of The fleur-de-lis, a stylized iris, first (I. versicolor), called iris versicol- the state flowers of Tennessee. occurs in its modern use as the ore in French. Tradition holds that the particular emblem of the House of Capet. The iris symbolizing Tennessee is a pur- fleur-de-lis has been associated ple cultivar, to go alongside the with France as Louis VII adopted it wild-growing Purple Passion as a symbol in the 12th Century. Flower (Passiflora incarnata) which The yellow fleur-de-lis reflects the is the state's other floral emblem. Yellow Iris (I. pseudacorus), com- Greeneville, Tennessee is home to mon in Western Europe. the annual Iris Festival celebrating Contemporary uses can be seen in the Iris, local customs, and culture. the Quebec flag and the logo of the New Orleans Saints professional The artist George Gessert has spe- football team, and on the flag of cialised in breeding irises. Saint Louis, Missouri.

The artist Vincent van Gogh paint- The red fleur-de-lis in the coat-of- ed several famous pictures of irises. arms of Florence (Italy) descends from the white iris which is native The American artist, Joseph Mason to Florence and which grew even in a great friend of John James its city walls. This white iris, dis- Audubon painted a precise image played against a red background, of what was then known as the became the symbol of Florence Lousianna Flag or Copper Iris (Iris until the Medici family, to signal a cuprea) to which Audubon subse- change in political power, reversed quently added two Northern the colors making the white one red Paraula birds (parula americana) and setting in motion a centuries- for inclusion as Plate 15 in his long breeding program to hybridize Birds of America. a red iris.

69 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jasmine

Glen O. Brechbill

Jasmin

Jasminum, commonly known as shaped. They are usually very fra- Jasminum fluminense (which is jasmines, is a genus of shrubs and grant. The fruits of jasmines are sometimes known by the inaccurate vines in the olive family berries that turn black when ripe. name "Brazilian Jasmine") and (Oleaceae). It contains around 200 Jasminum dichotomum (Gold species native to tropical and warm Distribution and Habitat Coast Jasmine) are invasive species temperate regions of the Old World. in Hawaii and Florida. Jasminum Jasmines are widely cultivated for Jasmines are native to tropical and polyanthum also known as White the characteristic fragrance of their subtropical regions of Europe, Jasmine is an invasive weed in flowers. Africa, Asia, and Australasia. Their Australia. center of diversity, however, is in Description South and Southeast Asia. Taxonomy

Jasmines can be either deciduous Some species have common names Species belonging to genus (leaves falling in autumn) or ever- that do not match their region of Jasminum are classified under the green (green all year round), and origin. Jasminum sambac, for tribe Jasmineae of the olive family can be erect, spreading, or climbing example, has the English common (Oleaceae). Jasminum is divided shrubs and vines. Their leaves are names of "Arabian jasmine" or into five sections - Alternifolia, borne opposite or alternate. They "Tuscan jasmine". However, it is Jasminum, Primulina, Trifoliolata, can be simple, trifoliate, or pinnate. not native to the Arabian peninsula and Unifoliolata. The flowers are typically around or Western India as is commonly 2.5 cm (0.98 in) in diameter. They perceived. It is native to Southeast The genus name is derived from the are white or yellow in color, Asia. The Spanish jasmine or Persian Yasameen ("gift from although in rare instances they can Catalonian jasmine (Jasminum God") through Arabic and Latin. be slightly reddish. The flowers are grandiflorum), is another example. borne in cymose clusters with a It is not native to the Iberian penin- Species minimum of three flowers, though sula but was originally from Iran they can also be solitary on the ends (Persia) and western South Asia. Jasminum auriculatum at Talakona of branchlets. Each flower has forest, in Chittoor District of about four to nine petals, two Jasmine should not be confused Andhra Pradesh, India. locules, and one to four ovules. with the day-blooming, yellow- They have two stamens with very flowered vine, Jessamine/Carolina A double-flowered cultivar of short filaments. The bracts are lin- Jasmine: Gelsemium sempervirens, Jasminum sambac in flower with an ear or ovate. The calyx is bell- which can cause death if eaten. unopened bud. The flower smells

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance like the tea as it opens. Jasminum multipartitum Hochst. – Jasmine tea Starry Wild Jasmine Species Include: Green tea with Jasmine Flowers Jasminum nervosum Lour. Jasminum abyssinicum Hochst. ex Jasmine tea is consumed in China, DC. – Forest jasmine Jasminum nudiflorum Lindl. – where it is called jasmine-flower Winter Jasmine tea. Jasminum sambac flowers are Jasminum adenophyllum Wall. – also used to make jasmine tea, Pinwheel Jasmine, Bluegrape jas- Jasminum odoratissimum L. – which often has a base of green tea, mine, Princess jasmine, Che vang, Yellow Jasmine but sometimes an Oolong base is Lai la co tuyen used. Flowers and tea are "mated" Jasminum officinale L. – Common in machines that control tempera- Jasminum angulare Vahl Jasmine, Poet's Jasmine, jasmine, ture and humidity. It takes four jessamine hours or so for the tea to absorb the Jasminum auriculatum Vahl fragrance and flavour of the jas- Jasminum parkeri Dunn – Dwarf mine blossoms, and for the highest Jasminum dichotomum Vahl – Jasmine grades, this process may be repeat- Gold Coast Jasmine ed as many as seven times. Because Jasminum polyanthum Franch. the tea has absorbed moisture from Jasminum didymum Primarily the flowers, it must be refired to Australian, with one subspecies Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton – prevent spoilage. The spent flowers occurring throughout the South Arabian Jasmine or Sampaguita. may or may not be removed from Pacific and Australasia the final product, as the flowers are Jasminum sinense Hemsl. completely dry and contain no Jasminum fruticans L. – distributed aroma. Giant fans are used to blow in South France and mediterranean Jasminum urophyllum Hemsl. away and remove the petals from region the denser tea leaves. If present, Cultivation and Uses they simply add visual appeal and Jasminum grandiflorum L. – are no indication of the quality of Spanish Jasmine, Royal Jasmine, Widely cultivated for its flowers, the tea. Catalonian Jasmine jasmine is enjoyed in the garden, as a house plant, and as cut flowers. In Okinawa, Japan, jasmine tea is Jasminum humile L. – Italian The flowers are worn by women in known as sanpin cha. Yellow Jasmine their hair in southern and southeast Asia. The delicate jasmine flower Jasmine Syrup Jasminum lanceolarium Roxb. opens only at night and may be plucked in the morning when the Made from jasmine flowers, is used Jasminum mesnyi Hance – tiny petals are tightly closed, then as a flavouring. Japanese Jasmine, Primrose stored in a cool place until night. Jasmine,Yellow Jasmine The petals begin to open between Jasmine Essential Oil six and eight in the evening, as the Jasminum multiflorum Hance – temperature lowers. Is in common use. Its flowers are Indian Jasmine, Winter Jasmine either extracted by the labour-inten-

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill sive method of enfleurage or western and southern states, includ- A change in presidency in Tunisia through chemical extraction. It is ing Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, in 1987[21][22] and the Tunisian expensive due to the large number Kerala, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Revolution of 2011 are both called of flowers needed to produce a jasmine (along with many other "Jasmine revolutions" in reference small amount of oil. The flowers flowers, including roses) is culti- to the flower. Jasmine flowers were have to be gathered at night vated in private homes, within gar- also used as a symbol during the because the odour of jasmine is dens or as potted plants. These 2011 Chinese pro-democracy more powerful after dark. The flowers are used in regular worship protests in the People's Republic of flowers are laid out on cotton cloths at home as well as for hair orna- China. soaked in olive oil for several days ments (for the girls and women of and then extracted leaving the true the house). Jasmine is also cultivat- In Syria, jasmine is the symbolic jasmine essence. Some of the coun- ed commercially, for both the flower of Damascus, which is tries producing jasmine essential domestic purposes discussed above called the City of Jasmine. In oil are India, Egypt, China and and other purposes (such as use in Thailand, jasmine flowers are used Morocco. the perfume industry). It is used in as a symbol for motherhood. rituals like marriages, religious cer- Jasmine absolute used in perfume emony, and festivals. In the "Jasmine" is also popular feminine and incense Chandan Yatra of lord Jagannath, given name in many countries. the deity is bathed with water fla- Many species also yield an vored in sandalwood paste and jas- Jasmine as the National Flower absolute, which is used in perfumes mine. and incense. Its chemical con- Several countries and states consid- stituents include methyl anthrani- Jasmine flower vendors selling er jasmine as a national symbol. late, indole, benzyl alcohol, ready-made garlands of jasmine, or They are the following: linalool, and skatole. in the case of the thicker motiyaa (in Hindi) or mograa (in Marathi) Hawaii: Jasmonates varietal, bunches of jasmine, as well as flowers by weight, are a Jasminum sambac ("pikake") is Jasmine gave name to the jas- common sight on city streets in perhaps the most popular of flow- monate plant hormones as methyl many parts of India. They may be ers. It is often strung in leis and is jasmonate isolated from the jas- found around entrances to temples, the subject of many songs. mine oil of Jasminum grandiflorum on major thoroughfares, and in led to the discovery of the molecu- major business areas (including bus Indonesia: lar structure of jasmonates. stands). This is common as far north as Mumbai, and generally Jasminum sambac is the national Cultural Importance from Maharashtra southward flower, adopted in 1990. It goes by through all of South India. Jasmine the name "melati putih" and is the The White Jasmine Branch, paint- vendors may also be found in most important flower in wedding ing of ink and color on silk by Kolkata, though roadside sales are ceremonies for ethnic Indonesians, Chinese artist Zhao Chang, early fewer there, since in North India especially in the island of Java. 12th century women and girls generally, by tradition, do not wear flowers in their Throughout India, especially in the hair.

72 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Pakistan:

Jasminum officinale is known as the "chambeli" or "yasmin", it is the national flower.

Philippines:

Jasminum sambac is the national flower. Adopted in 1935, it is known as "sampaguita" in the islands. It is usually strung in garlands which are then used to adorn religious images.

73 Glen O. Brechbill

Jonquil

Jonquil or Jonquille may refer to: varieties, and is the chief common and "Narcissus". This last is com- name of horticultural prevalence mon in American English but is Narcissus jonquilla, the jonquil, a used by the American Daffodil very rare in British usage. The narcissus with clusters of small fra- Society. The range of forms in cul- American Webster's Third New grant yellow flowers and cylindri- tivation has been heavily modified International Dictionary gives plu- cal leaves, native to southern and extended, with new variations rals in the order "Narcissus", Europe and northeastern Africa. available from specialists almost "Narcissuses", and "Narcissi", but every year. the British Compact Oxford Narcissus jonquilla (Jonquil) is an English Dictionary lists just old world daffodil that has natural- Names "Narcissi" and "Narcissuses". ized throughout Europe and the United States. It is one of the There are two derivations of the The name Daffodil is derived from Narcissus species used in Narcissus name. One is that of the youth of an earlier "Affodell", a variant of Oil, a component of many modern Greek mythology called Narcissus, Asphodel. The reason for the intro- perfumes. who, in at least one of many varia- duction of the initial "d" is not tions of the tale, became so known, although a probable source Is a genus of mainly hardy, mostly obsessed with his own reflection as is an etymological merging from spring-flowering, bulbs in the he knelt and gazed into a pool of the Dutch article "de," as in "De Amaryllis family, subfamily water that he fell into the water and affodil." From at least the 16th cen- Amaryllidoideae, native to Europe, drowned. In some variations, he tury, "Daffadown Dilly", "daffad- North Africa, and Asia. There are died of starvation and thirst from own dilly", and "daffydowndilly" also several Narcissus species that sitting by the edge of the pool, have appeared as playful synonyms bloom in the autumn. Though transfixed by his own reflection. In of the name. Hortus Third cites 26 wild species, both versions, the Narcissus plant Daffodils for North American sprang from where he died. The name "jonquil" is sometimes Gardens cites between 50 and 100 used in North America, particularly including species variants and wild The other derivation is that the in the Southern states, but strictly hybrids. Through taxonomic and plant is named after its narcotic speaking that name belongs to only genetic research, it is speculated properties ( narkao, "I grow numb" the rush-leaved Narcissus jonquilla that over time this number will in Greek). and cultivars derived from it. probably continue to be refined. Daffodil is a common English There are several plurals in com- Flowers of the tazetta-group name, sometimes used now for all mon use: "Narcissuses", "Narcissi", species Narcissus papyraceus are

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance commonly called paperwhites. of accidental poisoning. Species

Description One of the most common dermatitis Narcissus alcaracensis problems for florists, "daffodil itch" A daffodil closeup showing the var- involves dryness, fissures, scaling, Narcissus assoanus ious parts of the flower in detail and erythema in the hands, often accompanied by subungual hyperk- Narcissus asturiensis All Narcissus species have a central eratosis (thickening of the skin bell-, bowl-, or disc-shaped corona beneath the nails). It is blamed on Narcissus bugei surrounded by a ring of six floral exposure to calcium oxalate in the leaves called the perianth which is sap. It has long been recognised Narcissus jonquilla (Jonquil) united into a tube at the forward that some cultivars provoke der- edge of the 3-locular ovary. The matitis more readily than others. Narcissus longispathus seeds are black, round and swollen The cultivars 'Actaea', with a hard coat. The three outer 'Camparelle', 'Gloriosa', 'Grande Narcissus papyraceus (Paperwhite segments are sepals, and the three Monarque', 'Ornatus', 'Princeps' and Daffodil) inner segments are petals. Though 'Scilly White' are known to do so. the traditional daffodil of folklore, Narcissus poeticus (Poet's poetry, and field may have a yellow Medicine Narcissus) to golden-yellow color all over, both in the wild species and due to In the traditional Japanese medicine Narcissus pseudonarcissus (Wild breeding, the perianth and corona of kampo, wounds were treated Daffodil) may be variously colored. Breeders with narcissus root and wheat flour have developed some daffodils paste; the plant, however, does not Narcissus radinganorum with double, triple, or ambiguously appear in the modern kampo herb multiple rows and layers of seg- list. The Roman physician Aulus Narcissus romieuxii ments, and several wild species Cornelius Celsus listed narcissus also have known double variants. root in De Medicina among med- Narcissus tazetta ical herbs, described as emollient, Toxicity erodent, and "powerful to disperse Narcissus triandrus (Angel's Tears) whatever has collected in any part All Narcissus species contain the of the body". In one scientific Narcissus × medioluteus alkaloid poison lycorine, mostly in study, the ethanol extract of the the bulb but also in the leaves. bulbs was found effective in one Cultural Importance mouse model of nociception, para- On 1 May 2009 a number of school benzoquinone induced abdominal The ancient Greeks believed the children fell ill at Gorseland constriction, but not in another, the narcissus plant originated from the Primary School in Martlesham hot plate test. vain youth, Narcissus. He died after Heath, Suffolk, England, after a becoming so obsessed with his daffodil bulb was added to soup Daffodils are grown commercially reflection in a pool he could not during a cookery class. The bulbs near Brecon in Powys, Wales, to leave. The Greeks say that the gods could often be confused with produce galantamine, a drug used turned his remains into the onions, thereby leading to incidents to combat Alzheimer's disease. Narcissus flower. This also led to

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill the daffodil's being a symbol of that is "Easter bell." unrequited love. William Wordsworth's short poem I The Narcissus flower is perceived Wandered Lonely as a Cloud has in the West as a symbol of vanity, in become linked in the popular mind the East as a symbol of wealth and with the daffodils that form its main good fortune. image.

The Narcissus is a national flower Various cancer charities around the symbolising the new year or world, including the American Newroz in the Kurdish culture. Cancer Society, New Zealand Cancer Society, Cancer Council In ancient China, a legend about a Australia, and the Irish Cancer poor but good man holds he was Society, use the daffodil as a brought many cups of gold and fundraising symbol. "Daffodil wealth by this flower. Since the Days", first instituted in Toronto in flower blooms in early spring, it 1957 by the Canadian Cancer has also become a symbol of Society, are organized to raise Chinese New Year. Narcissus bulb funds by offering the flowers in carving and cultivation is even an return for a donation. art akin to Japanese bonsai. If the Narcissus blooms on Chinese New Year, it is said to bring extra wealth and good fortune throughout the year. Its sweet fragrances are highly revered in Chinese culture.

In classical Persian literature, the narcissus is a symbol of beautiful eyes, together with other flowers that equal a beautiful face with a spring garden, such as roses for cheeks and violets for shining dark hair.

The daffodil is the national flower of Wales, where it is traditional to wear a daffodil or a leek on Saint David's Day (March 1).

In some countries the yellow variation is associated with Easter. The German for daffodil is Osterglocke,

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Lilac - ( Syringa )

Syringa (Lilac) is a genus of about grow in large panicles, and in sev- ancient times to make reed pipes 20–25 species of flowering woody eral species have a strong fra- and flutes. plants in the olive family grance. Flowering varies between (Oleaceae), native to woodland and mid spring to early summer, The English common name "lilac" scrub from southeastern Europe to depending on the species. The fruit is from the from French lilac eastern Asia, and widely and com- is a dry, brown capsule, splitting in ("shrub of genus Syringa with monly cultivated in temperate areas two at maturity to release the two mauve flowers"), from Spanish elsewhere. winged seeds. lilac, from Arabic lilak, from Persian lilak, variant of nilak They are deciduous shrubs or small The genus is most closely related to "bluish," from nil, "indigo". trees, ranging in size from 2 to 10 Ligustrum (privet), classified with metres (6 ft 7 in to 32 ft 10 in) tall, it in Oleaceae tribus Oleeae sub- A pale purple colour is generally with stems up to 20 to 30 centime- tribus Ligustrinae. known as lilac after the characteris- tres (7.9 to 12 in) diameter. The tic color of the flowers of many leaves are opposite (occasionally in Lilacs are used as food plants by kinds of lilac, especially Syringa whorls of three) in arrangement, the larvae of some Lepidoptera vulgaris. and their shape is simple and heart- species including Copper shaped to broad lanceolate in most Underwing, Scalloped Oak and Species species, but pinnate in a few Svensson's Copper Underwing and species (e.g. S. protolaciniata, S. Saras. Syringa afghanicano pinnatifolia). The flowers are produced in spring, each flower being Etymology Syringa emodi - Himalayan Lilac 5 to 10 millimetres (0.20 to 0.39 in) in diameter with a four-lobed corol- via Arabic lilak from Persian nilak Syringa josikaea la, the corolla tube narrow, 5 to 20 meaning "bluish", ultimately from millimetres (0.20 to 0.79 in) long; Sanskrit nila, which means "dark Syringa komarowii (syn. S. reflexa) they are bisexual, with fertile sta- blue". mens and stigma in each flower. Syringa mairei The usual flower colour is a shade The genus name Syringa is derived of purple (often a light purple or from Greek syrinx, meaning a hol- Syringa microphylla lilac), but white, pale yellow and low tube or pipe, and refers to the pink, and even a dark burgundy broad pith in the shoots in some Syringa meyeri color are also found. The flowers species, easily hollowed out since

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Syringa oblata Cultivation & Uses sequently called paschalia.

Syringa pinetorum Lilacs are popular shrubs in parks Syringa vulgaris is the state flower and gardens throughout the temper- of New Hampshire, because it "is Syringa pinnatifolia ate zone, and several hybrids and symbolic of that hardy character of numerous cultivars have been the men and women of the Granite Syringa protolaciniata developed. The term French lilac is State" (New Hampshire Revised often used to refer to modern dou- Statute Annotated (RSA) 3:5). Syringa pubescens ble-flowered cultivars, thanks to the work of prolific breeder Victor "When Lilacs Last in the Dooryard Syringa pubescens subsp. julianae Lemoine. Lilacs grow most suc- Bloom'd" is a poem written by Walt (syn. S. julianae) cessfully in well-drained soils, par- Whitman as an elegy to Abraham ticularly those based on chalk. Lincoln. The poem was set to Syringa pubescens subsp. micro- They flower on old wood, and pro- music by both Paul Hindemith and phylla (syn. S. microphylla) duce more flowers if unpruned. If Roger Sessions. pruned, the plant responds by pro- Syringa pubescens subsp. patula ducing fast-growing young vegeta- "Syringa" is the title of a poem by (syn. S. patula) tive growth with no flowers, in an John Ashbery, from his collection attempt to restore the removed Houseboat Days. Syringa reticulata (syn. S. pekinen- branches. Lilac bushes can be sis) - Japanese Tree Lilac prone to powdery mildew disease. Lilac Wine is a song written by The wood of lilac is close-grained, James Sheldon in 1950. Syringa spontanea diffuse-porous, extremely hard and one of the densest in Europe. The Syringa sweginzowii sapwood is typically cream- coloured and the heartwood has Syringa tibetica various shades of brown and purple. Lilac wood has traditionally Syringa tomentella been used for engraving, musical instruments, knife handles etc. Syringa villosa When drying, the wood has a tendency to be encurved as a twisted Syringa vulgaris - Common Lilac material, and to split into narrow sticks. Syringa wardii Symbolism Syringa wolfii Lilacs are often considered to sym- Syringa yunnanensis - Yunnan bolize love (see language of flow- Lilac ers). In Greece, Lebanon, and Cyprus, the lilac is strongly associated with Easter time because it flowers around that time; it is con-

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Lily

Lilium is a genus of herbaceous monly adapted to either woodland that develop at the base of the bulb. flowering plants growing from habitats, often montane, or some- bulbs, all with large, prominent times to grassland habitats. A few Most cool temperate species are flowers. They comprise a genus of can survive in marshland and epi- dormant in winter. Most species are about 110 species in the lily family phytes are known in southeast Asia deciduous, but a few species Liliaceae. Most species are native (including L. arboricola). In gener- (Lilium candidum, Lilium cates- to the temperate northern hemi- al they prefer moderately acidic or baei) bear a basal rosette of leaves sphere, though their range extends lime-free soils. during dormancy. into the northern subtropics. Botany The large flowers have six tepals. Lilies form an important group of They are often fragrant, and come flowering garden plants and are Lilium longiflorum flower – 1. in a range of colours ranging important in culture and literature Stigma, 2. Style, 3. Stamens, 4. through whites, yellows, oranges, in much of the world. A few Filament, 5. Tepal pinks, reds and purples. Markings species are sometimes grown or include spots and brush strokes. harvested for the edible bulbs. Lilies are leafy stemmed herbs. The plants are late spring or sum- They form naked or tunic-less scaly mer flowering. The species in genus Lilium are underground bulbs which are their true lilies. Many other plants have overwintering organs. In some Seeds ripen in late summer. They "lily" in their common names, North American species the base of exhibit varying and sometimes some of which are quite unrelated the bulb develops into rhizomes, on complex germination patterns, to true lilies. which numerous small bulbs are many adapted to cool temperate cli- found. Some species develop mates. Range stolons. Most bulbs are deeply buried, but a few species form Taxonomy The range of lilies in the Old World bulbs near the soil surface. Many extends across much of Europe, species form stem-roots. With Taxonomical division in sections across most of Asia to Japan, south these, the bulb grows naturally at follows the classical division of to the Nilgiri mountains in India, some depth in the soil, and each Comber, species acceptance fol- and south to the Philippines. In the year the new stem puts out adventi- lows World Checklist of Liliaceae, New World they extend from tious roots above the bulb as it the taxonomy of section southern Canada through much of emerges from the soil. These roots Pseudolirium is from the Flora of the United States. They are com- are in addition to the basal roots North America, the taxonomy of

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Section Liriotypus is given in con- most often sold in dry form. They are plants with medium sized, sideration of Resetnik et al. 2007, are eaten especially in the summer, upright or outward facing flowers, the taxonomy of Chinese species for their perceived ability to reduce mostly unscented. They are derived (various sections) follows the Flora internal heat. They may be recon- from central and East Asian of China and the taxonomy of stituted and stir-fried, grated and species. Section Archelirion follows used to thicken soup, or processed Nishikawa et al. as does the taxon- to extract starch. Their texture and Martagon hybrids (Division II). omy of Section Archelirion. taste draw comparisons with the These are based on L. martagon potato, although the individual bulb and L. hansonii. The flowers are Some species formerly included scales are much smaller. Yuri-ne nodding, Turk's cap style (with the within this genus have now been (lily-root) is also common in petals strongly recurved). placed in other genera. These gen- Japanese cuisine, especially as an era include Cardiocrinum, ingredient of chawan-mushi Candidum hybrids (Division III). Notholirion, Nomocharis and (savoury egg custard). This includes hybrids of L. can- Fritillaria. didum with several other mostly The "lily" flower buds known as ji- European species. Uses nzhe-n (??, "golden needles") in Chinese cuisine are actually from American hybrids (Division IV). Many species are widely grown in the daylily Hemerocallis fulva. These are mostly taller growing the garden in temperate and sub- This plant despite its looks - is actu- forms, originally derived from L. tropical regions. Sometimes they ally more closely related to aspara- pardalinum. Many are clump-form- may also be grown as potted plants. gus than to true lilies. ing perennials with rhizomatous A large number of ornamental rootstocks. hybrids have been developed. They Lilies are used as food plants by the can be used in herbaceous borders, larvae of some Lepidoptera species Longiflorum hybrids (Division V). woodland and shrub plantings, and including the Dun-bar. These are cultivated forms of this as patio plants. Some lilies, espe- species and its subspecies. They are cially Lilium longiflorum form Classification of Garden Forms most important as plants for cut important cut flower crops. These flowers, and are less often grown in may be forced for particular mar- Asiatic hybrid flower the garden than other hybrids. kets; for instance, L. longiflorum for the Easter trade, when it may be An Oriental hybrid showing open Trumpet lilies (Division VI), called the Easter lily. and unopened flower including Aurelian hybrids (with L. henryi). This group includes Lilium bulbs are starchy and edible An emasculated Lilium Stargazer hybrids of many Asiatic species, as root vegetables, although bulbs including L. regale and L. aure- of some species may be very bitter. Numerous forms, mostly hybrids lianse. The flowers are trumpet The non-bitter bulbs of L. lancifoli- are grown for the garden. They shaped, facing outward or some- um, L. pumilum, and especially L. vary according to their parent what downward, and tend to be brownii; pinyin: ba(ihé ga-n) and species, and are classified in the strongly fragrant, often especially Lilium davidii var unicolor cotton following broad groups: night-fragrant. are grown on a large scale in China as a luxury or health food, and are Asiatic hybrids (Division I). These Oriental hybrids (Division VII).

80 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

These are based on hybrids of L. by seed; there are many seed ger- auratum and L. speciosum, together mination patterns, which can be with crossbreeds from several complex species native to Japan, including L nobilissimum, L rubellum, L by micropropagation techniques; alexandrae, and L japonicum. They commercial quantities of lilies are are fragrant, and the flowers tend to often propagated in vitro and then be outward facing. Plants tend to be planted out to grow into salable tall, and the flowers may be quite sized plants large. The whole group are sometimes referred to as Stargazers Names because they appear to look upwards. For the specific The botanic name Lilium is the 'Stargazer' hybrid, see Lilium Latin form and is a Linnaean name. "Stargazer". The Latin name is derived from the Greek, leírion, generally assumed Other hybrids (Division VIII). to refer to true, white lilies as exem- Includes all other garden hybrids. plified by the Madonna lily. The word was borrowed from Coptic Species (Division IX). All natural (dial. Fayyumic) hleri, from stan- species and naturally occurring dard hreri, from Demotic hrry, from forms are included in this group. Egyptian hrr.t "flower". Meillet maintains that both the Egyptian Many newer commercial varieties and the Greek word are possible are developed by using new tech- loans from an extinct, substratum nologies such as in vitro pollina- language of the Eastern tion, ovary culture and embryo res- Mediterranean. The Greeks also cue. used the word, kri-non, albeit for non-white, false lilies. Propagation & Growth Toxicology Lilies can be propagated in several ways; Many varieties of lily are extremely toxic to cats, causing acute renal By Division of the Bulbs failure even in small amounts. This is particularly true in the case of by growing-on bulbils which are Easter lily plants, though other adventitious bulbs formed on the Lilium and the related stem Hemerocallis can also cause the same symptoms. by scaling, for which whole scales are detached from the bulb and planted to form a new bulb

81 Glen O. Brechbill

Magnolia

Magnolia is a large genus of about Origin of the Name tarum. Since Linnaeus never saw 210 flowering plant species in the an herbarium specimen (if there subfamily Magnolioideae of the In 1703 Charles Plumier ever was one) of Plumier's family Magnoliaceae. It is named (1646–1704) described a flowering Magnolia and had only his descrip- after French botanist Pierre tree from the island of Martinique tion and a rather poor picture at Magnol. in his Genera. He gave the species, hand, he must have taken it for the known locally as "talauma", the same plant which was described by Magnolia is an ancient genus. genus name Magnolia, after Pierre Catesby in his 1730 Natural History Having evolved before bees Magnol. The English botanist of Carolina. He placed it in the syn- appeared, the flowers developed to William Sherard, who studied onymy of Magnolia virginiana var. encourage pollination by beetles. botany in Paris under Joseph Pitton fœtida, the taxon now known as To avoid damage from pollinating de Tournefort, a pupil of Magnol, Magnolia grandiflora. beetles, the carpels of Magnolia was most probably the first after flowers are extremely tough. Plumier to adopt the genus name The species that Plumier originally Fossilised specimens of Magnolia Magnolia. He was at least responsi- named Magnolia was later acuminata have been found dating ble for the taxonomic part of described as Annona dodecapetala to 20 million years ago, and of Johann Jacob Dillenius's Hortus by Lamarck, and has since been plants identifiably belonging to the Elthamensis and of Mark Catesby's named Magnolia plumieri and Magnoliaceae dating to 95 million Natural History of Carolina, Talauma plumieri (and still a num- years ago. Another primitive aspect Florida and the Bahama Islands. ber of other names) but is now of Magnolias is their lack of dis- These were the first works after known as Magnolia dodecapetala. tinct sepals or petals: Magnolias Plumier's Genera that used the possess undifferentiated flower name Magnolia, this time for some Nomenclature and Classification parts for which the term "tepals" species of flowering trees from was coined. temperate North America. Carolus When Linnaeus took up Magnolia Linnaeus, who was familiar with in his Species plantarum (1753), he The natural range of Magnolia Plumier's Genera, adopted the created a genus of only one species: species is a disjunct distribution, genus name Magnolia in 1735 in Magnolia virginiana. Under that with a main centre in east and his first edition of Systema naturae, species he described five varieties southeast Asia and a secondary without a description but with a ref- (glauca, fœtida, grisea, tripetala and centre in eastern North America, erence to Plumier's work. In 1753, acuminata). In the tenth edition of Central America, the West Indies, he took up Plumier's Magnolia in Systema naturae (1759), he merged and some species in South America the first edition of Species plan- grisea with glauca, and raised the

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance four remaining varieties to species taxonomists for a long time. leaving Michelia names and sub- status. Because the family is quite old and genus Magnolia names untouched; has survived many geological or 3: to join Michelia with genus By the end of the 18th century, events (such as ice ages, mountain Magnolia into genus Magnolia s.l. botanists and plant hunters explor- formation and continental drift), its (a big genus). Magnolia subgenus ing Asia began to name and distribution has become scattered. Magnolia can not be renamed describe the Magnolia species from Some species or groups of species because it contains Magnolia vir- China and Japan. The first Asiatic have been isolated for a long time, giniana, the type species of the species to be described by western while others could stay in close genus and of the family. Not many botanists were Magnolia denudata contact. To create divisions in the Michelia species have so far and Magnolia liliiflora, and family (or even within the genus become horticulturally or economi- Magnolia coco and Magnolia figo. Magnolia), solely based upon mor- cally important, apart for their Soon after that, in 1794, Carl Peter phological characters, has proven wood. Both subgenus Magnolia Thunberg collected and described to be a nearly impossible task. and subgenus Yulania include Magnolia obovata from Japan and species of major horticultural at roughly the same time Magnolia By the end of the 20th century, importance, and a change of name kobus was also first collected. DNA sequencing had become would be very undesirable for available as a method of large scale many people, especially in the hor- With the number of species increas- research on phylogenetic relation- ticultural branch. In Europe, ing, the genus was divided into the ships. Several studies, including Magnolia even is more or less a two subgenera Magnolia and studies on many species in the fam- synonym for Yulania, since most of Yulania. Magnolia contains the ily Magnoliaceae, were carried out the cultivated species on this conti- American evergreen species to investigate relationships. What nent have Magnolia (Yulania) Magnolia grandiflora, which is of these studies all revealed was that denudata as one of their parents. horticultural importance, especially genus Michelia and Magnolia sub- Most taxonomists who acknowl- in the United States, and Magnolia genus Yulania were far more close- edge close relations between virginiana, the type species. ly allied to each other than either Yulania and Michelia therefore sup- Yulania contains several deciduous one of them was to Magnolia sub- port the third option and join Asiatic species, such as Magnolia genus Magnolia. These phylogenet- Michelia with Magnolia. denudata and Magnolia kobus, ic studies were supported by mor- which have become horticulturally phological data. The same goes, mutatis mutandis, important in their own right and as for the (former) genera Talauma parents in hybrids. Classified in As nomenclature is supposed to and Dugandiodendron, which are Yulania, is also the American reflect relationships, the situation then placed in subgenus Magnolia, deciduous Magnolia acuminata with the species names in Michelia and genus Manglietia, which could (Cucumber tree), which has recent- and Magnolia subgenus Yulania be joined with subgenus Magnolia ly attained greater status as the par- was undesirable. Taxonomically or may even earn the status of an ent which is responsible for the yel- there are three choices; 1: to join extra subgenus. Elmerrillia seems low flower colour in many new Michelia and Yulania species in a to be closely related to Michelia hybrids. common genus, not being and Yulania, in which case it will Magnolia (for which the name most likely be treated in the same Relations in the family Michelia has priority); 2: to raise way as Michelia is now. The pre- Magnoliaceae have been puzzling subgenus Yulania to generic rank, cise nomenclatural status of small

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill or monospecific genera like Subgenus Magnolia ingredients include magnolol, hon- Kmeria, Parakmeria, Pachylarnax, okiol, 4-O-methylhonokiol and Manglietiastrum, Aromadendron, Anthers open by splitting at the obovatol. The aromatic bark con- Woonyoungia, Alcimandra, front facing the centre of the tains magnolol and honokiol, two Paramichelia and Tsoongiodendron flower. Deciduous or evergreen. polyphenolic compounds that may remains uncertain. Taxonomists Flowers produced after the leaves. have demonstrated anti-anxiety and who merge Michelia into Magnolia anti-angiogenic properties. tend to merge these small genera Horticultural Uses into Magnolia s.l. as well. Botanists Magnolia bark also may have been do not yet agree on whether to rec- In general, Magnolia is a genus shown to reduce allergic and asth- ognize a big Magnolia genus or the which has attracted a lot of horti- matic reactions. They have also different small genera. For exam- cultural interest. Some, such as the been shown to protect against neu- ple, Flora of China offers two star magnolia (Magnolia stellata) ronal cell death in vitro. choices: a large Magnolia which and the saucer magnolia (Magnolia includes about 300 species, every- × soulangeana), flower quite early Magnolia has attracted the interest thing in the Magnoliaceae except in the spring, before the leaves of the dental research community Liriodendron (tulip tree), or 16 dif- open. Others flower in late spring because magnolia bark extract ferent genera, some of them recent- or early summer, including the inhibits many of the bacteria ly split out or re-recognized, each sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia vir- responsible for caries and peri- of which contains up to 50 species. giniana) and the Southern magnolia odontal disease. In addition, the The western co-author favors the (Magnolia grandiflora). constituent magnolol interferes big Magnolia genus, whereas the with the action of glucosyltrans- Chinese co-authors recognize the Hybridisation has been immensely ferase, an enzyme needed for the different small genera. successful in combining the best formation of bacterial plaque. aspects of different species to give Selected Species plants which flower at an earlier Other Uses age than the species themselves, as This nearly comprehensive species well as having more impressive In parts of Japan, the leaves of mag- list has been adapted from the one flowers. One of the most popular nolia obovata are used for wrapping used by the Magnolia Society. It garden magnolias, saucer magnolia food and as cooking dishes. does not represent the last word on (Magnolia × soulangeana), is a the subclassification of the genus hybrid of Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolias are used as food plants Magnolia, as a clear consensus has Magnolia denudata. by the larvae of some Lepidoptera not yet been reached. species, including Giant Leopard Medicinal Uses Moth. The list is presented as three subgenera, 12 sections, and 13 subsec- The bark, and flower buds, of mag- Popular Culture tions. nolia from Magnolia officinalis has long been used in traditional In official and unofficial plants Each species entry follows the fol- Chinese medicine, where it is lowing pattern: known as hou po. In Japan, ko- Magnolia grandiflora is the official boku, Magnolia obovata has been state flower of both Mississippi and used in a similar manner.Bioactive Louisiana. The flower's abundance

84 The Floral Notes of Fragrance in Mississippi is reflected in its nickname of "Magnolia State". The magnolia is also the official state tree of Mississippi. Historically, magnolias have been associated with the Southern United States.

Siebold's Magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii) is the national flower of North Korea.

85 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimo

Glen O. Brechbill

Mimosa

is a genus of about 400 species of synonymized under other species Species herbs and shrubs, in the subfamily or transferred to other genera. In Mimosoideae of the legume family part due to these changing circum- There are about 400 species includ- Fabaceae. The generic name is scriptions, the name "Mimosa" has ing: derived from the Greek word also been applied to several other (mimos), meaning "mimic." related species with similar pinnate Mimosa aculeaticarpa Ortega or bipinnate leaves, but are now There are two species in the genus classified in other genera, most Mimosa aculeaticarpa var. biun- that are notable. One is Mimosa commonly to Albizia julibrissin cifera Ortega pudica, because of the way it folds (silk tree) and Acacia dealbata its leaves when touched or exposed (wattle). Mimosa arenosa (Willd.) Poir. to heat. It is native to southern Central and South America but is Members of this genus are among Mimosa asperata L. widely cultivated elsewhere for its the few plants capable of rapid curiosity value, both as a house- movement; examples outside of Mimosa borealis Gray plant in temperate areas, and out- Mimosa include the telegraph doors in the tropics. Outdoor culti- plant, and the venus flytrap. The Mimosa casta L. vation has led to weedy invasion in leaves of the plant close quickly some areas, notably Hawaii. The when touched. Some mimosas raise Mimosa ceratonia L. other is Mimosa tenuiflora, which their leaves in day and lower them is best known for its use in shaman- at night, and experiments done by Mimosa diplotricha C.Wright ex ic ayahuasca brews due to the psy- Jacques d'Ortous de Mairan on Sauvalle chedelic drug DMT found in its mimosas in 1729 provided the first root bark. evidence of biological clocks. Mimosa dysocarpa Benth. Mimosa can be distinguished from Taxonomy the large related genera, Acacia and Mimosa dysocarpa var. dysocarpa Albizia, since its flowers have 10 or Benth. The taxonomy of the genus fewer stamens. Note that, botani- Mimosa has had a tortuous history, cally, what appears to be a single Mimosa emoryana Benth. having gone through periods of globular flower is actually a cluster splitting and lumping, ultimately of many individual ones. Mimosa Mimosa grahamii Gray accumulating over 3,000 names, contains some level of heptanoic many of which have either been acid. Mimosa grahamii var. grahamii

86 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Gray Mimosa strigillosa Torr. et Gray

Mimosa hostilis Mimosa tenuiflora (Willd.) Poir. (= Mimosa hostilis) Mimosa hystricina (Small ex Britt. et Rose) B.L.Turner Mimosa texana (Gray) Small

Mimosa latidens (Small) B.L. Mimosa turneri Barneby Turner Mimosa verrucosa Benth. Mimosa laxiflora Benth.

Mimosa malacophylla Gray

Mimosa microphylla Dry.

Mimosa nuttallii (DC.) B.L. Turner

Mimosa pellita Kunth ex Willd.

Mimosa pigra L.

Mimosa pigra var. pigra L.

Mimosa pudica L. - La sensitive

Mimosa quadrivalvis L.

Mimosa quadrivalvis var. hystricina (Small) Barneby

Mimosa roemeriana Scheele

Mimosa rubicaulis Lam.

Mimosa rupertiana B.L. Turner

Mimosa scabrella Benth.

Mimosa schomburgkii Benth.

Mimosa somnians

87 Glen O. Brechbill

Muguet ( Lily of the Valley )

Convallaria majalis commonly colonies by spreading underground sometimes been separated out as known as the Lily of the Valley, is a stems called rhizomes. New upright distinct species or subspecies by poisonous woodland flowering shoots are formed at the ends of some botanists. plant native throughout the cool stolons in summer, these upright temperate Northern Hemisphere in dormant stems are often called Convallaria majalis var. keiskei - Asia, Europe and in the southern pips. These grow in the spring into from China and Japan, with red Appalachian Mountains in the new leafy shoots that still remain fruit and bowl-shaped flowers (now United States. connected to the other shoots under widely cited as Convallaria keiskei) ground, often forming extensive It is possibly the only species in the colonies. The stems grow to 15–30 C. majalis var. majalis - from genus Convallaria (or one of two or cm tall, with one or two leaves Eurasia, with white midribs on the three, if C. keiskei and C. transcau- 10–25 cm long, flowering stems flowers casica are recognised as separate have two leaves and a raceme of species). In the APG III system, the 5–15 flowers on the stem apex. The C. majalis var. montana - from the genus is placed in the family flowers are white tepals (rarely USA, with green-tinted midribs on Asparagaceae, subfamily Nolin- pink), bell-shaped, 5–10 mm diam- the flowers oideae ( formerly the family eter, and sweetly scented; flowering Ruscaceae ). It was formerly placed is in late spring, in mild winters in Convallaria transcaucasica is in its own family Convallariaceae, the Northern Hemisphere it is in recognised as a distinct species by or earlier, like many lilioid mono- early March. The fruit is a small some authorities, while the species cots, in the lily family Liliaceae. orange-red berry 5–7 mm diameter formerly called Convallaria japoni- that contains a few large whitish to ca is now classified as Ophiopogon A limited native population occurs brownish colored seeds that dry to a japonicus. in Eastern USA (Convallaria clear translucent round bead 1–3 majalis var. montana). There is, mm wide. Plants are self-sterile, Garden Use however, some debate as to the and colonies consisting of a single native status of the American vari- clone do not set seed. Variegated cultivar early in spring ety. Double-flowered Convallaria Taxonomy majalis Description Convallaria majalis var. rosea Convallaria majalis is a popular C. majalis is a herbaceous perenni- garden plant, grown for its scented al plant that forms extensive There are three varieties that have flowers and for its ground-covering

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance abilities in shady locations. Some labour day, May 1, by labour organ- consider it a weed, as it can spread isations and private persons with- over a wide area in gardens and can out paying sales tax (on that day be difficult to contain or remove. only) as a symbol of spring.

Various kinds and cultivars are The Norwegian municipality grown, including those with double Lunner has a lily of the valley in its flowers, rose-colored flowers, var- coat-of-arms. iegated foliage and ones that grow larger than the typical species. Toxicity

C. majalis 'Albostriata' has white- All parts of the plant are highly poi- striped leaves. sonous, including the red berries which may be attractive to children. C. majalis 'Green Tapestry', If ingested even in small amounts 'Haldon Grange', 'Hardwick Hall', the plant can cause abdominal pain, 'Hofheim', 'Marcel', 'Variegata' and vomiting, and a reduced heart rate. 'Vic Pawlowski's Gold' are other variegated cultivars. Roughly 38 different cardiac glyco- sides (cardenolides) have been C. majalis 'Berlin Giant' and C. found in the plant majalis 'Géant de Fortin' (syn. 'Fortin's Giant') are larger-growing cultivars

C. majalis 'Flore Pleno' has double flowers.

C. majalis 'Rosea' sometimes found under the name C. majalis var. rosea, has pink flowers.

Traditionally Convallaria majalis has been grown in pots and winter forced to provide flowers during the winter months, both for as potted plants and as cut flowers.

Symbolic Uses

At the end of the 20th century it became tradition in France to sell lily of the valley on international

89 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narcissus_(plan

Glen O. Brechbill

Narcissus ( Jonquil )

Is a genus of mainly hardy, mostly obsessed with his own reflection as is an etymological merging from spring-flowering, bulbs in the he knelt and gazed into a pool of the Dutch article "de," as in "De Amaryllis family, subfamily water that he fell into the water and affodil." From at least the 16th cen- Amaryllidoideae, native to Europe, drowned. In some variations, he tury, "Daffadown Dilly", "daffad- North Africa, and Asia. There are died of starvation and thirst from own dilly", and "daffydowndilly" also several Narcissus species that sitting by the edge of the pool, have appeared as playful synonyms bloom in the autumn. Though transfixed by his own reflection. In of the name. Hortus Third cites 26 wild species, both versions, the Narcissus plant Daffodils for North American sprang from where he died. The name "jonquil" is sometimes Gardens cites between 50 and 100 used in North America, particularly including species variants and wild The other derivation is that the in the Southern states, but strictly hybrids. Through taxonomic and plant is named after its narcotic speaking that name belongs to only genetic research, it is speculated properties ( narkao, "I grow numb" the rush-leaved Narcissus jonquilla that over time this number will in Greek). and cultivars derived from it. probably continue to be refined. Daffodil is a common English There are several plurals in com- Flowers of the tazetta-group name, sometimes used now for all mon use: "Narcissuses", "Narcissi", species Narcissus papyraceus are varieties, and is the chief common and "Narcissus". This last is com- commonly called paperwhites. name of horticultural prevalence mon in American English but is used by the American Daffodil very rare in British usage. The Description Society. The range of forms in cul- American Webster's Third New tivation has been heavily modified International Dictionary gives plu- All Narcissus species have a central and extended, with new variations rals in the order "Narcissus", bell-, bowl-, or disc-shaped corona available from specialists almost "Narcissuses", and "Narcissi", but surrounded by a ring of six floral every year. the British Compact Oxford leaves called the perianth which is English Dictionary lists just united into a tube at the forward Names "Narcissi" and "Narcissuses". edge of the 3-locular ovary. The seeds are black, round and swollen There are two derivations of the The name Daffodil is derived from with a hard coat. The three outer name. One is that of the youth of an earlier "Affodell", a variant of segments are sepals, and the three Greek mythology called Narcissus, Asphodel. The reason for the intro- inner segments are petals. Though who, in at least one of many varia- duction of the initial "d" is not the traditional daffodil of folklore, tions of the tale, became so known, although a probable source poetry, and field may have a yellow

90 The Floral Notes of Fragrance to golden-yellow color all over, Medicine Narcissus poeticus (Poet's both in the wild species and due to Narcissus) breeding, the perianth and corona In the traditional Japanese medicine may be variously colored. Breeders of kampo, wounds were treated Narcissus pseudonarcissus (Wild have developed some daffodils with narcissus root and wheat flour Daffodil) with double, triple, or ambiguously paste; the plant, however, does not multiple rows and layers of seg- appear in the modern kampo herb Narcissus radinganorum ments, and several wild species list. The Roman physician Aulus also have known double variants. Cornelius Celsus listed narcissus Narcissus romieuxii root in De Medicina among med- Toxicity ical herbs, described as emollient, Narcissus tazetta erodent, and "powerful to disperse All Narcissus species contain the whatever has collected in any part Narcissus triandrus (Angel's Tears) alkaloid poison lycorine, mostly in of the body". In one scientific the bulb but also in the leaves. study, the ethanol extract of the Narcissus × medioluteus bulbs was found effective in one On 1 May 2009 a number of school mouse model of nociception, para- Color Range & Classification children fell ill at Gorseland benzoquinone induced abdominal Primary School in Martlesham constriction, but not in another, the Daffodils may be self-colored i.e., Heath, Suffolk, England, after a hot plate test. both perianth and corona identical daffodil bulb was added to soup in color and shade or the colors during a cookery class. The bulbs Daffodils are grown commercially between the perianth and corona could often be confused with near Brecon in Powys, Wales, to may differ widely. Some perianths onions, thereby leading to incidents produce galantamine, a drug used and some coronas also may contain of accidental poisoning. to combat Alzheimer's disease. more than one color or shade.

One of the most common dermatitis Species Prevalent colors are all shades and problems for florists, "daffodil itch" tones of yellow, white, orange, involves dryness, fissures, scaling, Narcissus alcaracensis pink, red and green. Pinks vary and erythema in the hands, often from apricot to rose in shades from accompanied by subungual hyperk- Narcissus assoanus pale to deep, and some more recent eratosis (thickening of the skin cultivars have hints of lavender or beneath the nails). It is blamed on Narcissus asturiensis lilac. exposure to calcium oxalate in the sap. It has long been recognised Narcissus bugei Reds vary from orange-red to that some cultivars provoke der- salmon red to near scarlet. Pink, matitis more readily than others. Narcissus jonquilla (Jonquil) red, orange and green tones are The cultivars 'Actaea', mainly confined to the corona. 'Camparelle', 'Gloriosa', 'Grande Narcissus longispathus However, breeders are currently Monarque', 'Ornatus', 'Princeps' and working against the genera's natu- 'Scilly White' are known to do so. Narcissus papyraceus (Paperwhite ral pigmentation and genetic barri- Daffodil) ers to create cultivars in which pink, rose, red, orange and green

91 Glen O. Brechbill tones suffuse or "bleed" from the more highly colored coronas onto the perianth segments of white or yellow. There are an increasing number of commercially available varieties which display this enhanced coloration.

ADS Color Classification:

W = White or whitish

G = Green

Y = Yellow

P = Pink

O = Orange

R = Red

The color classification lists the perianth color and then the corona color. In the case of multiple colors, the perianth colors are assigned from the outer edge of the perianth segments inward to their juncture with the base of the corona, while the corona colors are assigned from the base of the corona outward to the rim.

Thus, Actaea, a Poeticus (Division 9) Daffodil, is officially classified as 9 W-GYR, while Accent, a Large Cup (Division 2) Daffodil possessing a white perianth and a pink corona, is officially classified as 2 W-P.

92 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Orange Flower

Orange flower water, or orange There are many brands available blossom water, is a clear, perfumed that are made in Europe and the distillation of fresh bitter-orange Middle East. There are also several blossoms. brands made in the United States.

This essential water has traditional- In Greece and Cyprus orange blos- ly been used in many French and som water is called anthonero while Mediterranean dessert dishes, such in Malta it is known as Ilma Zahar. as the gibassier and pompe à l'huile, but has more recently found its way In Morocco orange blossom water into Western cuisine. For example, is called Ilma Zhar, phrase in arabic orange flower water is used in literally meaning "flower water," in France to flavor madeleines, in contrast to Llma Ward, which is Mexico to flavor little wedding rose blossom water. Orange blos- cakes and Pan de muerto, and in the som water serves two purposes in United States to make orange blos- Morocco. One usage is a perfume som scones and marshmallows. or freshener, usually given to guests Orange flower water is also used as to wash their hands upon entering an ingredient in some cocktails, the host house or before drinking such as the Ramos Gin Fizz. tea, in a special silver or metal con- tainer; recognizable in the It has been a traditional ingredient Moroccan tea set. but this old cus- used often in Middle Eastern cook- tom is fading away in the present ing. In Arab variants of baklava, day. The main usage of orange orange blossom water is often blossom water however, is in mixed with the sweet syrup for fla- Moroccan cuisine especially as an vor. Orange blossoms are believed ingredient for traditional sweets. to be used in this manner because they are seen as the traditional bridal flower and, therefore, symbolize purity (white, small and delicate).

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Orris

Orris root is a term used for the tion, page 40). Typical iris-per- roots Iris germanica, Iris florentina, fumes (where the compound of the and Iris pallida. Once important in ingredient prevails over the other western herbal medicine, it is now components) are: "Orris Noir" by used mainly as a fixative and base the London based perfume house note in perfumery, as well as an Ormonde Jayne Perfumery, ingredient in many brands of gin. "Infusion d'iris"(Prada*); It's also the most widely-used fixa- "Tumulte"(Christian Lacroix*); tive for potpourri. "Aqua di Parma"* and "Iris nobile"(Aqua di Parma*); Fabienne Pavia, in her book "Irisia"(Creed*); "Y"(Yves Saint L'univers des Parfums (1995, ed. Laurent*) and "Vol de Solar), states that in the manufac- nuit"(Guerlain*). The black orris turing of perfumes using orris, the used in Orris Noir is a highly prized scent of the iris root differs from oil and the national flower of that of the flower. After preparation Jordan. the scent is reminiscent of the smell of violets. Orris root is often included as one of the many ingredients of Ras el After an initial drying period, hanout, a blend of herbs and spices which can take five years or more used across the Middle East and depending on the use, the root is North Africa, primarily associated ground. For potpourri, this powder with Moroccan cuisine. is used without further processing. For other uses, it's dissolved in Orris root has been used in tinctures water and then distilled. One ton of to flavour syrups; its taste is said to iris root produces two kilos of be indistinguishable from raspber- essential oil, also referred to as ry. orris root butter, making it a highly prized substance, and its fragrance has been described as tenaciously flowery, heavy and woody (Paraphrasing Pavia, Dutch transla-

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osmanthus

The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Osmanthus

is a genus of about 30 species of Osmanthus asiaticus - Sweet Olive Cultivation and Uses flowering plants in the family Oleaceae, mostly native to warm Osmanthus auratiacus Osmanthus are popular shrubs in temperate Asia (from the Caucasus parks and gardens throughout the east to Japan) but one species (O. Osmanthus decorus - Caucasian warm temperate zone. Several americanus) occurring in North Osmanthus hybrids and cultivars have been America (southeastern United developed. In China, osmanthus tea States, Texas to Virginia). It is Osmanthus delavayi - Delavay's (Chinese:; pinyin: guìhua- chá) is sometimes included in Nestegis. Osmanthus produced by combining dried They range in size from shrubs to Sweet Osmanthus (Osmanthus fra- small trees, 2-12 m tall. The leaves Osmanthus fragrans - Sweet grans) flowers (Chinese:; pinyin: are opposite, evergreen, and sim- Osmanthus guìhua-) with black or green tea ple, with an entire, serrated or leaves in much the same manner coarsely toothed margin. The flow- Osmanthus heterophyllus - Chinese the more familiar jasmine tea com- ers are produced in spring, summer Osmanthus bines jasmine flowers with tea or autumn, each flower being about leaves. In Japan, Osmanthus asiati- 1 cm long, white, with a four-lobed Osmanthus serrulatus cus or Sweet Olive is a favourite tubular-based corolla ('petals'). The garden shrub. Known as Gin- flowers grow in small panicles, and Osmanthus suavis mokusei, its small white flowers in several species have a strong fra- appear in short stalked clusters in grance. The fruit is a small (10-15 Osmanthus yunnanensis - Yunnan late autumn. It has an intense sweet mm), hard-skinned dark blue to Osmanthus fragrance which has been described purple drupe containing a single as a blend of jasmine, gardenia and seed. Garden Hybrids ripe apricots. Another variant popular in Japan is Osmanthus aurantia- Selected Species Osmanthus × burkwoodii (O. cus, also known as Kin-mokusei. delavayi × O. decorus) Very similar to the Sweet Olive but Osmanthus americanus - has deep, golden flowers. Devilwood Osmanthus or Osmanthus × fortunei (O. fragrans Devilwood × O. heterophyllus) Osmanthus oil derived from the flowers has become a popular Osmanthus armatus ingredient in the niche perfume industry in the last decade since the

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill launch of Ormonde Jayne Perfumery's perfume Osmanthus Absolute. The Different Company, Tom Ford and Space NK have all since launched their own Osmanthus perfume.

Osmanthus flower on old wood, and produce more flowers if unpruned. If pruned, the plant responds by producing fast-growing young vegetative growth with no flowers, in an attempt to restore the removed branches; a pruned shrub often produces few or no flowers for one to five or more years, before the new growth matures sufficiently to start flowering.

Traditional Chinese medicine claims that drinking osmanthus tea improves complexion and helps rid the body of excess nitric oxide, a compound that is linked to the formation of cancer, diabetes and renal disease.

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Peony

Peony or paeony is a name for Rudolphi in 1830, following a sug- White, Scarlet O’Hara, Sea Shell), plants in the genus Paeonia, the gestion by Friedrich Gottlieb Japanese (Nippon Beauty, Madame only genus in the flowering plant Bartling that same year. The family Butterfly), Anemone, Semi-Double family Paeoniaceae. They are had been given other names a few (Paula Fay, Coral Charm, Miss native to Asia,Southern Europe and years earlier. The composition of America, Buckeye Belle), Double Western North America. the family has varied, but it has (Ann Cousins, Gardenia, Kansas, Boundaries between species are not always consisted of Paeonia and Paul M. Wild, Tourangelle) and clear and estimates of the number one or more genera that are now Bomb-Double (Red Charm, of species range from 25 to 40. placed in Ranunculales. It has been Raspberry Sundae, Mons Jules widely believed that Paeonia is Elie). Herbaceous peonies die back Most are herbaceous perennial closest to Glaucidium, and this idea in winter and regrow in spring, plants 1.5 - 5 feet (0.5 - 1.5 metres) has been followed in some recent while tree peonies lose their leaves tall, but some resemble trees up to 5 works. Molecular phylogenetic in winter, but leave woody stems. - 10 feet (1.5 – 3 metres) tall. They studies, however, have demonstrat- have compound, deeply lobed ed conclusively that Glaucidium Intersectional (Itoh) peonies are leaves, and large, often fragrant belongs in Ranunculaceae, but that hybrid crosses between tree and flowers, ranging from red to white Paeonia belongs in the unrelated herbaceous types. They have the or yellow, in late spring and early order Saxifragales. large flowers of a tree peony, but summer. die back to the ground each year Classification like herbaceous peonies. Name A cultivated hybrid peony Chemistry and Biological Activities The peony is named after Paeon (also spelled Paean), a student of Peonies can be classified by both Over 262 compounds have been Asclepius, the Greek god of medi- plant growth habit and flower type. obtained so far from the plants of cine and healing. Asclepius became Plant growth types are Herbaceous Paeoniaceae. These include jealous of his pupil; Zeus saved (Bush), Tree, and Intersectional monoterpenoid glucosides, Paeon from the wrath of Asclepius (Itoh). flavonoids, tannins, stilbenoids, by turning him into the peony triterpenoids and steroids, flower. Each flower type becomes more paeonols, and phenols. complex in its arrangement of The family name "Paeoniaceae" petals. The flower types include Biological activities include antiox- was first used by Friedrich K.L. Single (e.g., Athena, Dad, Krinkled idant, antitumor, antipathogenic,

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill immune-system-modulation activi- Paeonia brownii (Brown's Peony) Peony, Type species) ties, cardiovascular-system-protective activities and central-nervous- Paeonia californica (California Paeonia parnassica (Greek Peony) system activities. Peony) Paeonia peregrina The herb known as Paeonia (Bai Paeonia cambessedesii Shao, Radix Paeoniae Lactiflorae), Paeonia rhodia in particular the root of Paeonia lac- Paeonia caucasica tiflora has been used frequently in Paeonia sinjiangensis traditional medicines of Korea, Paeonia clusii China and Japan. Research sug- Paeonia sterniana gests that constituents in Paeonia Paeonia coriacea lactiflora paeoniflorin and paeonol Paeonia steveniana can modulate IgE-induced scratch- Paeonia daurica ing behaviors and mast cell degran- Paeonia tenuifolia ulation. Paeonia emodi Paeonia tomentosa Propagation Paeonia hirsuta Paeonia veitchii (Veitch's Peony) Paeonia caucasica Paeonia intermedia Paeonia wittmanniana Fruit of Paeonia suffruticosa Paeonia japonica (Japanese Peony) Woody Species ( about 8 species ) Herbaceous and Itoh peonies are Paeonia kesrouanensis (Keserwan propagated by root division, and Peony) Paeonia decomposita sometimes by seed. Tree peonies can be propagated by grafting, divi- Paeonia lactiflora (Chinese Peony, Paeonia delavayi (Delavay's Tree sion, seed, and from cuttings, known as ?? "sháoyao" (literally: Peony) although root grafting is most com- "most beautiful" ) in Chinese, mon commercially. "common garden peony") Paeonia jishanensis (syn. Paeonia spontanea; Jishan Peony) Species Paeonia macrophylla Paeonia ludlowii (Ludlow's Tree Herbaceous species (about 30 Paeonia mairei Peony) species) Paeonia mascula (Balkan Peony) Paeonia ostii (Osti's Peony) Paeonia abchasica Paeonia mlokosewitschii (Golden Paeonia qiui (Qiu's Peony) Paeonia anomala Peony) Paeonia rockii (syn. Paeonia suffru- Paeonia bakeri Paeonia obovata ticosa subsp. rockii; Rock's Peony or Tree Peony) Paeonia broteri Paeonia officinalis (European

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Paeonia suffruticosa (Chinese tree The ancient Chinese city Luoyang flower buds. This is due to the nec- peony, known as "mu(da-n" in has a reputation as a cultivation tar that forms on the outside of the Chinese) centre for the peonies. Throughout flower buds, and is not required for Chinese history, peonies in the plants' own pollination or other Symbolism and Uses Luoyang have been said to be the growth. finest in the country. Dozens of In this gold-engraved lacquerware peony exhibitions and shows are Peonies are a common subject in food tray from the Song Dynasty still held there annually. tattoos, often used along with koi- (960–1279), the two long-tailed fish. The popular use of peonies in birds represent longevity, and the In Japan, Paeonia lactiflora used to Japanese tattoo was inspired by the peony seen at the top center repre- be called ebisugusuri ("foreign ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi's sents prosperity medicine"). Pronunciation of illustrations of the Suikoden, a seri- (peony) in Japan is "botan." In alized novel from China. His paint- Peony, by Chinese artist Wang kampo (the Japanese adaptation of ings of warrior-heroes covered in Qian, Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) Chinese medicine), its root was pictorial tattoos included lions, Portrait of a peony by Chinese artist used as a treatment for convulsions. tigers, dragons, koi fish, and Yun Shouping, 17th century It is also cultivated as a garden peonies, among other symbols. The plant. In Japan Paeonia suffruticosa peony became a masculine motif, The peony is among the longest- is called the "King of Flowers" and associated with a devil-may-care used flowers in Eastern culture and Paeonia lactiflora is called the attitude and disregard for conse- is one of the smallest living crea- "Prime Minister of Flowers." quence. ture national emblems in China. Along with the plum blossom, it is In 1957, the Indiana General a traditional floral symbol of China, Assembly passed a law to make the where the Paeonia suffruticosa is peony the state flower of Indiana, a called (mu(da-n). It is also known title which it holds to this day. It as (fùguìhua-) "flower of riches and replaced the zinnia, which had been honour," and is used symbolically the state flower since 1931. in Chinese art. In 1903, the Qing Dynasty declared the peony as the Mischievous nymphs were said to national flower. Currently, the hide in the petals of the Peony, giv- Republic of China on Taiwan des- ing it the meaning of Shame or ignates the plum blossom as the Bashfulness in the Language of national flower, while the People's Flowers. While the peony takes Republic of China has no legally several years to re-establish itself designated national flower. In when moved, it blooms annually 1994, the peony was proposed as for decades once it has done so. the national flower after a nation- wide poll, but the National People's Peonies are also extensively grown Congress failed to ratify the selec- as ornamental plants for their very tion. In 2003, another selection large, often scented flowers. process has begun, but to date, no choice has been made. Peonies tend to attract ants to the

99 Glen O. Brechbill

Reseda

Mignonette (Reseda) is a genus of ambrosial scent of its flowers. It is fragrant herbaceous plants native to used in flower arrangements, per- the Mediterranean region and fumes and potpourri. A Victorian southwest Asia, from the Canary favourite, it was commonly grown Islands and Iberia east to northwest in pots and in window-boxes to India. The species include annuals, scent the city air. It was used as a biennials and perennials, and grow sedative and a treatment for bruises to 40-130 cm tall. The leaves form in Roman times. The volatile oil is a basal rosette at ground level, and used in perfumery. The yellow dye then spirally arranged up the stem; was obtained from the roots of R. they can be entire, toothed or pin- luteola by the first millennium BC, nate, and range from 1-15 cm long. and perhaps earlier than either The flowers are produced in a slen- woad or madder. Use of this dye der spike, each flower small (4-6 came to an end at the beginning of mm diameter), white, yellow, the twentieth century, when cheap- orange, or green, with four to six er synthetic yellow dyes came into petals. The fruit is a small dry cap- use. sule containing several seeds. Charles Darwin used R. odorata in Other common names include Weld his studies of self-fertilised plants, (R. luteola), Dyer's Rocket, Bastard which he documented in The Rocket and Sweet Reseda. Effects of Cross and Self- Fertilisation in the Vegetable Cultivation and Uses Kingdom.

Propagation is by seed, which is surface-sown directly into the garden or grass verge. The plant does not take well to transplanting and should not be moved after sowing.

Mignonette flowers are extremely fragrant. It is grown for the sweet

100 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Rose

A rose is a perennial plant of the 5–15 centimetres long, pinnate, but a few (e.g. Rosa pimpinellifo- genus Rosa, within the family with leaflets and basal stipules; the lia) have dark purple to black hips. Rosaceae. There are over 100 leaflets usually have a serrated mar- Each hip comprises an outer fleshy species. They form a group of erect gin, and often a few small prickles layer, the hypanthium, which con- shrubs, and climbing or trailing on the underside of the stem. Most tains 5–160 "seeds" (technically plants, with stems that are often roses are deciduous but a few (par- dry single-seeded fruits called ach- armed with sharp prickles. Flowers ticularly from South east Asia) are enes) embedded in a matrix of fine, are large and showy, in a number of evergreen or nearly so. but stiff, hairs. Rose hips of some colours from white through yellows species, especially the Dog Rose and reds. Most species are native to The flowers of most species have (Rosa canina) and Rugosa Rose Asia, with smaller numbers native five petals, with the exception of (Rosa rugosa), are very rich in vita- to Europe, North America, and Rosa sericea, which usually has min C, among the richest sources of northwest Africa. Species, cultivars only four. Each petal is divided into any plant. The hips are eaten by and hybrids are all widely grown two distinct lobes and is usually fruit-eating birds such as thrushes for their beauty and fragrance. Rose white or pink, though in a few and waxwings, which then disperse plants range in size from compact, species yellow or red. Beneath the the seeds in their droppings. Some miniature roses, to climbers that petals are five sepals (or in the case birds, particularly finches, also eat can reach 7 meters in height. of some Rosa sericea, four). These the seeds. Species from different parts of the may be long enough to be visible world easily hybridize, which has when viewed from above and Rose thorns are actually prickles - given rise to the many types of gar- appear as green points alternating outgrowths of the epidermis. den roses. with the rounded petals. The ovary is inferior, developing below the While the sharp objects along a The name rose comes from French, petals and sepals. Roses are insect- rose stem are commonly called itself from Latin, rosa, which was pollinated in nature. "thorns", they are technically prick- borrowed from Oscan, from Greek les - outgrowths of the epidermis ( rhodion (Aeolic wrodion), from The aggregate fruit of the rose is a the outer layer of tissue of the stem Old Persian wurdi "flower" (cf. berry-like structure called a rose ). ( True thorns, as produced by e.g. Avest. warda, Sogdian ward, hip. Many of the domestic cultivars Citrus or Pyracantha, are modified Parthian wâr). do not produce hips, as the flowers stems, which always originate at a are so tightly petalled that they do node and which have nodes and The leaves are borne alternately on not provide access for pollination. internodes along the length of the the stem. In most species they are The hips of most species are red, thorn itself ). Rose prickles are typ-

101 Glen O. Brechbill ically sickle-shaped hooks, which genus is subdivided into 11 sec- near the town of Kazanlak, 1870s, aid the rose in hanging onto other tions. engraving by F. Kanitz vegetation when growing over it. Some species such as Rosa rugosa Banksianae - white and yellow Uses and Rosa pimpinellifolia have flowered roses from China. densely packed straight spines, Roses are best known as ornamen- probably an adaptation to reduce Bracteatae - three species, two from tal plants grown for their flowers in browsing by animals, but also pos- China and one from India. the garden and sometimes indoors. sibly an adaptation to trap wind- They have been also used for com- blown sand and so reduce erosion Caninae - pink and white flowered mercial perfumery and commercial and protect their roots ( both of species from Asia, Europe and cut flower crops. Some are used as these species grow naturally on North Africa. landscape plants, for hedging and coastal sand dunes ). Despite the for other utilitarian purposes such presence of prickles, roses are fre- Carolinae - white, pink, and bright as game cover. They also have quently browsed by deer. A few pink flowered species all from minor medicinal uses. species of roses have only vestigial North America. prickles that have no points. Garden Roses Chinensis - white, pink, yellow, red Species and mixed-color roses from China The majority of ornamental roses and Burma. are hybrids that were bred for their The genus Rosa is subdivided into flowers. A few, mostly species four subgenera: Gallicanae - pink to crimson and roses are grown for attractive or striped flowered roses from west- scented foliage (such as Rosa glau- Hulthemia ( formerly Simplicifo- ern Asia and Europe. ca and Rosa rubiginosa), ornamen- liae, meaning "with single leaves" ) tal thorns (such as Rosa sericea) or containing one or two species from Gymnocarpae - one species in for their showy fruit (such as Rosa southwest Asia, R. persica and western North America (Rosa gym- moyesii). Rosa berberifolia which are the nocarpa), others in east Asia. only roses without compound Ornamental roses have been culti- leaves or stipules. Laevigatae - a single white flow- vated for millennia, with the earli- ered species from China est known cultivation known to Hesperrhodos ( from the Greek for date from at least 500 BC in "western rose") contains Rosa Pimpinellifoliae - white, pink, Mediterranean countries, Persia, minutifolia and Rosa stellata, from bright yellow, mauve and striped and China. Many thousands of rose North America. roses from Asia and Europe. hybrids and cultivars have been bred and selected for garden use as Platyrhodon ( from the Greek for Rosa ( Cinnamomeae) - white, flowering plants. Most are double- "flaky rose", referring to flaky pink, lilac, mulberry and red roses flowered with many or all of the bark ) with one species from east from everywhere but North Africa. stamens having mutated into addi- Asia, Rosa roxburghii. tional petals. In the early 19th Synstylae - white, pink, and crim- century the Empress Josephine of Rosa ( the type subgenus ) contain- son flowered roses from all areas. France patronized the development ing all the other roses. This sub- Rose-picking in the Rose Valley of rose breeding at her gardens at

102 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Malmaison. As long ago as 1840 a of roses or rose oil, which is a mix- rose oil production, is widely used collection numbering over one ture of volatile essential oils in Asian and Middle Eastern cui- thousand different cultivars, vari- obtained by steam distilling the sine. The French are known for eties and species was possible when crushed petals of roses. An associ- their rose syrup, most commonly a rosarium was planted by ated product is rose water which is made from an extract of rose petals. Loddiges nursery for Abney Park used for cooking, cosmetics, medi- In the United States, this French Cemetery, an early Victorian gar- cine and in religious practices. The rose syrup is used to make rose den cemetery and arboretum in production technique originated in scones and marshmallows. England. Persia then spread through Arabia and India, but nowadays about 70% Rose Hips A few species and hybrids are to 80% of production is in the Rose grown for non-floral ornamental Valley near Kazanluk in Bulgaria, The rose hip, the fruit of some use. Among these are those grown with some production in Qamsar in species, is used as a minor source for prominent hips, such as the Iran and Germany.[citation needed] of Vitamin C. flagon shaped hips of Rosa moye- The Kaaba in Mecca is annually sii. Sometimes even the thorns can washed by the Iranian rose water Rosa canina hips be treated as an attraction or curios- from Qamsar[citation needed]. In ity, such as with Rosa sericea. Bulgaria, Iran and Germany, Rose hips are occasionally made damask roses (Rosa damascena into jam, jelly, and marmalade, or Cut Flowers 'Trigintipetala') are used. In the are brewed for tea, primarily for French rose oil industry Rosa cen- their high vitamin C content. They Roses are a popular crop for both tifolia is used. The oil is transpar- are also pressed and filtered to domestic and commercial cut flow- ent pale yellow or yellow-grey in make rose hip syrup. Rose hips are ers. Generally they are harvested colour. 'Rose Absolute' is solvent- also used to produce Rose hip seed and cut when in bud, and held in extracted with hexane and produces oil, which is used in skin products refrigerated conditions until ready a darker oil, dark yellow to orange and some makeup products. for display at their point of sale. in colour. The weight of oil extracted is about one three-thousandth to Medicine In temperate climates, cut roses are one six-thousandth of the weight of often grown in glasshouses, and in the flowers; for example, about two The fruits of many species have warmer countries they may also be thousand flowers are required to significant levels of vitamins and grown under cover in order to produce one gram of oil. have been used as a food supple- ensure that the flowers are not dam- ment ( see previous section ). Many aged by weather and that pests and Geraniol ( C10H18O ) roses have been used in herbal and disease control can be carried out folk medicines. Rosa chinensis has effectively. Significant quantities The main constituents of attar of long been used in Chinese tradi- are grown in some tropical coun- roses are the fragrant alcohols tional medicine. This and other tries, and these are shipped by air to geraniol and l-citronellol; and rose species have been used for stomach markets across the world. camphor, an odourless paraffin. ?- problems, and are being investigat- Damascenone is also a significant ed for controlling cancer growth. Perfume contributor to the scent. Culture

Rose perfumes are made from attar Rose water, made as a byproduct of

103 Glen O. Brechbill

Art Turkey. Recently, China has begun There are three main methods of producing rose oil as well. extracting the oil from the plant Roses are often portrayed by artists. material: The Luxembourg born Belgian The most common chemical com- artist Pierre-Joseph Redouté pro- pounds present in rose oil are: Steam distillation, which produces duced some of the most detailed an oil called rose otto or attar of paintings of roses. Citronellol, geraniol, nerol, roses. linalool, phenyl ethyl alcohol, far- Renoir's painting of cabbage roses, nesol, stearoptene, -pinene, - Solvent extraction, which results in Roses in a vase pinene, -terpinene, limonene, p- an oil called rose absolute. cymene, camphene, -caryophyl- Rose Oil lene, neral, citronellyl acetate, ger- Supercritical carbon dioxide anyl acetate, neryl acetate, eugenol, extraction, yielding an essential oil Meaning either rose otto ( attar of methyl eugenol, rose oxide, -dama- that may be marketed as either an rose, attar of roses ) or rose scenone, -damascenone, benzalde- absolute or as a CO2 extract. absolute, is the essential oil extract- hyde, benzyl alcohol, rhodinyl ed from the petals of various types acetate, phenyl ethyl formate Distillation of rose. Rose ottos are extracted through steam distillation, while The key flavor compounds that In the process of distillation, large rose absolutes are obtained through contribute to the distinctive scent of stills, traditionally of copper, are solvent extraction or supercritical rose oil, however, are beta-damas- filled with roses and water. The still carbon dioxide extraction, with the cenone, beta-damascone, beta- is fired for 60 - 105 minutes. The absolute being used more common- ionone, and rose oxide. Beta-dama- vaporized water and rose oil exit ly in perfumery. Even with their scenone presence and quantity is the still and enter a condensing high price and the advent of organ- considered as the marker for the apparatus and are then collected in ic synthesis, rose oils are still per- quality of rose oil. Even though a flask. This distillation yields a haps the most widely used essential these compounds exist in less than very concentrated oil, direct oil, oil in perfumery. 1% quantity of rose oil, they make which makes up about 20% of the up for slightly more than 90% of final product. The water which con- Two major species of rose are culti- the odor content due to their low denses along with the oil is drained vated for the production of rose oil: odor detection thresholds. off and redistilled, cohobation, in order to obtain the water-soluble Rosa damascena, the damask rose, Production fractions of the rose oil such as which is widely grown in Bulgaria, phenyl ethyl alcohol which are a Turkey, Russia, Pakistan, India, Due to the labor-intensive produc- vital component of the aroma and Uzbekistan, Iran and China tion process and the low content of which make up the large bulk, 80%, oil in the rose blooms, rose oil com- of the oil. The two oils are com- Rosa centifolia, the cabbage rose, mands a very high price. bined and make the final rose otto. which is more commonly grown in Harvesting of flowers is done by Morocco, France and Egypt hand in the morning before sunrise Rose otto is usually dark olive- and material is distilled the same green in color and will form white Most rose oil is produced in day. crystals at normal room tempera- Bulgaria, Morocco, Iran and ture which disappear when the oil is

104 The Floral Notes of Fragrance gently warmed. It will tend to the wax and other substances. The The equipment for CO2 extraction become more viscous at lower tem- alcohol is low-pressure evaporated, is expensive, which is reflected in peratures due to this crystallization leaving behind the finished the price of the essential oils of some of its components. absolute. The absolute may be fur- obtained from the process. ther processed to remove any impu- The essence has a very strong odor, rities that are still present from the Adulteration but is pleasant when diluted and solvent extraction. used for perfume. Attar of roses It takes many pounds of rose petals was once made in India, Persia, Rose absolute is a deep reddish to distill one ounce of essential oil. Syria, and the Ottoman Empire. brown with no crystals. Due to the Depending on extraction method The Rose Valley in Bulgaria, near low temperatures in this process, and plant species, the average yield the town of Kazanlak, is among the the absolute may be more faithful can range from 1:1500 to 1:10000. major producers of attar of roses in to the scent of the fresh rose than To mitigate the cost, some dishon- the world. the otto. est dealers will dilute rose oil with geranium ( Pelargonium Due to the heat required for distilla- Carbon Dioxide Extraction graveolens ) or Palmarosa tion, some of the compounds ( Cymbopogon martinii ) EO's, extracted from the rose undergo A third process, supercritical both of which are rich in geraniol, denaturing or chemical breakdown. carbon dioxide extraction, com- the main constituent of rose oil. As such, rose otto does not smell bines the best aspects of the other Some of these 'rose oils' are up to very similar to "fresh" roses. two methods. When carbon dioxide 90% geranium or palmarosa to 10% is put under at least 72.9 atm of rose. This is referred to as extend- The hydrosol portion of the distil- pressure and at a temperature of at ing the Rose fragrance. This may late is known as rosewater. This least 31.1°C (the critical point), it be done to compensate for chemo- inexpensive by-product is used becomes a supercritical fluid with type, e.g. Bulgarian distilled Rose widely as a food flavoring as well the permeation properties of a gas oil is naturally low in as in skin care. and the solvation properties of a phenylethanol, and Ukrainian or liquid. ( Under normal pressure Russian rose oil is naturally high in Solvent Extraction CO2 changes directly from a solid phenylethanol. to a gas in a process known as sub- In the solvent extraction method, limation ). The supercritical fluid the flowers are agitated in a vat CO2 extracts the aromatics from with a solvent such as hexane, the plant material. which draws out the aromatic compounds as well as other soluble sub- Like solvent extraction, the CO2 stances such as wax and pigments. extraction takes place at a low tem- The extract is subjected to vacuum perature, extracts a wide range of processing which removes the sol- compounds rendering an essence vent for re-use. The remaining more faithful to the original, and waxy mass is known as a concrete. leaves the aromatics unaltered by The concrete is then mixed with heat. Because CO2 is gas at normal alcohol which dissolves the aro- atmospheric pressure, it leaves no matic constituents, leaving behind trace of itself in the final product.

105 Glen O. Brechbill

Tuberose

The tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) refers to Polianthes mexicana). traditionally used in all type of gar- is a perennial plant related to the landing especially in south Indian agaves, extracts of which are used It is a prominent plant in Indian cul- marriages. In Cuba it is called "azu- as a middle note in perfumery. The ture and mythology. The flowers cena" which is the name given to common name derives from the are used in wedding ceremonies, amaryllis in Mexico. Latin tuberosa, meaning swollen or garlands, decoration and various tuberous in reference to its root sys- traditional rituals. Its Hindi name is In Iran the tuberose is known as tem. It consists of about 12 species. "Rajnigandha", though it is some- "Gole Maryam" ("Mary flower") Polianthes means "many flowers" times mistakenly referred to as and the oil extracted from the in Greek language. "Raat ki Rani" ("Queen of the flower is used as a perfume. Night"), which is really Cestrum The tuberose is a night-blooming nocturnum. The name Rajnigandha The tuberose is also used tradition- plant thought to be native to means "night- fragrant" (rajn ally in Hawaii to create leis and was Mexico along with every other i=night; gandha=fragrance). In considered a funeral flower in species of Polianthes. It grows in Bengali, it is called "Rajoni- Victorian times. Its scent is elongated spikes up to 45 cm (18 Gandha", meaning "Scent of the described as a complex, exotic, in) long that produce clusters of fra- Night". In Marathi, it is called - sweet, floral. grant waxy white flowers that NishiGhanda". In parts of South bloom from the bottom towards the India, it is known as "Sugandaraja", top of the spike. It has long, bright which translates to "king of fra- green leaves clustered at the base of grance/smell". In Chinese, it is the plant and smaller, clasping called WanXiangYu ("night fra- leaves along the stem. grant jade", meaning "flower as precious as jade and becoming fra- Members of the closely related grant at night), or YeLaiXiang genus Manfreda are often called ("fragrance that comes at night") or "tuberoses". YueXiaXiang ( "fragrance under the moon"). In Indonesia it is called Uses and cultural significance "bunga sedap malam", meaning night fragrant flower. In Tamil The Aztecs called the tuberose Nadu it is called as Sambangi or omixochitl [oh-mi-shoh'-chit?] or nilasambangi, in Andhra Pradesh it bone flower (though this name also is called as "NelaSampenga" and

106 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viola_(plant)

The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Violet

s a genus of flowering plants in the stantial number are acaulescent in petal while most have a spur on the violet family Violaceae, with habit meaning they lack any notice- lower petal. around 400–500 species distributed able stems and the foliage and around the world. Most species are flowers appear to rise from the Solitary flowers end long stalks found in the temperate Northern ground; the remaining species have with a pair of bracteoles. The flow- Hemisphere; however, viola short stems with foliage and flowers have 5 sepals that persist after species (commonly called violets, ers produced in the axils of the blooming, and in some species the pansies or heartsease) are also leaves. The simple leaves of plants sepals enlarge after blooming. The found in widely divergent areas with either habit are arranged alter- flowers have five free stamens with such as Hawaii, Australasia, and nately; the acaulescent species pro- short filaments that are oppressed the Andes in South America. duce basal rosettes. Plants always against the ovary, only the lower have leaves with stipules that are two stamens have nectary spurs that Most Viola species are perennial often leaf-like. are inserted on the lowest petal into plants, some are annual plants, and the spur or a pouch. The flower a few are small shrubs. A number Opened seed capsule, showing the styles are thickened near the top of species are grown for their orna- seeds and the stigmas are head-like, nar- mental flowers in borders and rock rowed or often beaked. The flowers gardens; the garden pansy in partic- A viola cultivar showing the large have a superior ovary with one cell, ular is an extensively used spring round flowers and the novel col- which has three placentae, contain- and autumn/winter bedding and pot oration that has been achieved ing many ovules. plant. Viola and violetta are terms through breeding. used by gardeners and generally in Viola flowers are most often spring horticulture for neat, small-flow- The flowers of the vast majority of blooming with chasmogamous ered hybrid plants intermediate in the species are zygomorphic with flowers with well-developed petals size between pansies and violets. bilateral symmetry. The flowers are pollinated by insects. Many species formed from five petals; four are also produce self-pollinated cleis- Description upswept or fan-shaped petals with togamous flowers in summer and two per side, and there is one broad, autumn that do not open and lack Viola typically have heart-shaped, lobed lower petal pointing down- petals. In some species the showy scalloped leaves, though a number ward. The shape of the petals and chasmogamous flowers are infertile have palmate leaves or other placement defines many species, (e.g.,Viola papilionacea). shapes. The vast majority of Viola for example, some Viola species species are herbaceous, and a sub- have a "spur" on the end of each After flowering, fruit capsules are

107 Glen O. Brechbill produced that split open by way of Australian native violet, ivy-leaved Viola rostrata three valves. On drying, the cap- violet long-spurred violet sules may eject seeds with considerable force to distances of several Viola biflora Viola sororia meters. The nutlike seeds have common blue violet, hooded straight embryos, flat cotyledons, yellow wood violet, twoflower vio- violet and soft fleshy endosperm that is let oily. The seeds of some species Viola tricolor have elaiosomes and are dispersed Viola canina wild pansy, heartsease by ants. heath dog violet Note: Flower colours vary in the genus, Viola cheiranthifolia ranging from violet, as their com- Teide violet Neither Saintpaulia ("African vio- mon name suggests, through vari- lets") nor Erythronium dens-canis ous shades of blue, yellow, white, Viola corsica ("dogtooth violets") are related to and cream, whilst some types are Corsican pansy the true Viola. bicolored, often blue and yellow. Many cultivars and hybrids have Viola hederacea The genus includes dog violets, a been bred in a greater spectrum of group of scentless species which colours. Flowering is often profuse, Australian native violet, ivy-leaved are the most common viola in many and may last for much of the spring violet areas, sweet violet (Viola odorata) and summer. (named from its sweet scent), and Viola hirta many other species whose common One quirk of some viola is the elu- hairy violet name includes the word "violet". sive scent of their flowers; along Several species are known as pan- with terpenes, a major component Viola labradorica sies, including the yellow pansy of the scent is a ketone compound alpine violet (Viola pedunculata) of the Pacific called ionone, which temporarily coast. desensitises the receptors of the Viola odorata nose, thus preventing any further sweet violet Common blue violet Viola sororia scent being detected from the is the state flower of Wisconsin, flower until the nerves recover. Viola pedunculata Rhode Island, Illinois, and New yellow pansy Jersey. Selected Species Viola persicifolia Australia is home to a number of White-and-purple form of Viola fen violet Viola species, including Viola hed- sororia eracea, Viola betonicifolia and Viola pubescens Viola banksii, first collected by Viola arvensis downy yellow violet Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander field pansy on the Cook voyage to Botany Bay. Viola riviniana Viola banksii common dog violet The modern garden pansy (V. × wittrockiana) is a plant of complex

108 The Floral Notes of Fragrance hybrid origin involving at least viola and violetta cultivars; many Wild violets are regarded as a prob- three species, V. tricolor (wild of these do not "come true" from lem in shady fescue lawns in North pansy or heartsease), V. altaica and seed and therefore have to be prop- America. Violets thrive in the V. lutea (mountain pansy). agated from cuttings. Violettas can part/full shade and are not suscepti- be distinguished from violas by the ble to most herbicides used to kill Horticultural Uses lack of ray markings on their petals. common lawn weeds. Triclopyr, a A few popular examples include: weedkiller, has been found to be an Species and Cultivars effective method of controlling Viola 'Ardross Gem' (viola) wild violets in fescue lawns. Cultivars of Viola cornuta, Viola cucullata, Viola odorata, are com- Viola 'Buttercup' (violetta) Other Uses monly grown from seed. Other species often grown include Viola Viola 'Columbine' (viola) Culinary labradorica, Viola pedata and Viola rotundifolia. Viola 'Dawn' (violetta) When newly opened, Viola flowers may be used to decorate salads or in Bedding Plants Viola 'Etain' (viola) stuffings for poultry or fish. Soufflés, cream and similar The plants known to gardeners as Viola 'Irish Molly' (viola) desserts can be flavoured with "violas" are common bedding and essence of Viola flowers. The pot plants world wide. In 2005 in Viola 'Jackanapes' (viola) young leaves are edible raw or the United States, violas (including cooked as a somewhat bland leaf pansies) were one of the top three Viola 'Maggie Mott' (viola) vegetable. The flowers and leaves bedding plant crops and 111 million of the cultivar 'Rebecca', one of the dollars worth of flats of violas were Viola 'Martin' (viola) Violetta violets, has a distinct vanil- produced for the bedding flower la flavor with hints of winter- market.[ Pansies and violas used Viola 'Molly Sanderson' (viola) green.The pungent perfume of for bedding are generally raised some varieties of v.odorata adds from seed, and F1 hybrid seed Viola 'Rebecca' (violetta) inimitable sweetness to desserts, strains have been developed which fruit salads and teas while the mild produce compact plants of reason- Viola 'Vita' (viola) pea flavor of v.tricolor and most ably consistent flower colouring other viola combines equally well and appearance. Bedding plants are Viola 'Zoe' (violetta) with sweet or savory foods, like usually discarded after one growing grilled meats and steamed vegeta- season. Viola 'Blackjack' bles. The heart-shaped leaves of the v. odorata provide a free source of Perennial Cultivars Weed Control greens throughout a long growing season. Selection of cultivated Violas at the Not all violets are desired, and wild BBC Gardeners' World show, in violets are considered weeds in A candied violet or crystallized vio- June 2011. North American lawns by some let is a flower, usually of Viola people. Others tolerate or welcome odorata, preserved by a coating of There are hundreds of perennial the presence of violets in lawns. egg white and crystallised sugar.

109 Glen O. Brechbill

Alternatively, hot syrup is poured ties when isolated from the plant, over the fresh flower (or the flower including uterotonic, anti-HIV, is immersed in the syrup) and antimicrobial, and insecticidal stirred until the sugar recrystallizes activities. and has dried. This method is still used for rose petals and was applied Viola canescens, a species from to orange flowers in the past (when India, exhibited in vitro activity almonds or orange peel are treated against Trypanosoma cruzi. this way they are called pralines). Candied violets are still made com- Fourteen anthocyanins from V. mercially in Toulouse, France, yedoensis and V. prionantha have where they are known as violettes been identified. Some anthocyanins de Toulouse. They are used as dec- show strong antioxidant activities. orating or included in aromatic desserts. Perfume

The French are also known for their Viola odorata is used as a source for violet syrup, most commonly made scents in the perfume industry. from an extract of violets. In the Violet is known to have a 'flirty' United States, this French violet scent as its fragrance comes and syrup is used to make violet scones goes. Ionone is present in the flow- and marshmallows. ers, which turns off the ability for humans to smell the fragrant com- Viola essence flavours the liqueurs pound for moments at a time. Creme Yvette, Creme de Violette, and Parfait d'Amour. It is also used in Parma Violets confectionery.

Medicinal

The flowers, leaves and roots of various Viola species are used for medicinal purposes,[citation needed] being rich in vitamins A and C. They also contain a type of antioxidant called an anthocyanin. Viola flowers are also used to make an herbal tea that is used in Chinese herbal medicine. Most violas (all tested) and many plants of the Violaceae plant family contain cyclotides,which have a diverse range of in vitro biological activi-

110 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cananga_odorata

The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Ylang Ylang

Cananga odorata, commonly called grant essential oil. Caryophyllene Ylang-ylang, cananga tree, ilang- ilang, kenanga (Indonesian), fra- Cananga odorata var. fruticosa, p-cresyl methyl ether grant cananga, Macassar-oil plant dwarf ylang-ylang, grows as small or perfume tree), is a tree valued for tree or compact shrub with highly Methyl benzoate its perfume. The essential oil scented flowers. derived from the flowers is used in Sesquiterpenes aromatherapy. Ylang-ylang has been cultivated in temperate climates under conserva- Etymology Artabotrys odoratissimus, ylang- tory conditions. ylang vine, and Artabotrys hexa- The name ylang-ylang is derived petalus, climbing ylang-ylang, are Its clusters of black fruit are an from Tagalog, either from the word woody, evergreen climbing plants important food item for birds, such ilang, meaning "wilderness", allud- in the same family; A. odoratis- as the Collared Imperial-pigeon, ing to its natural habitat, or the simus is also a source of perfume. Purple-tailed Imperial-pigeon, word ilang-ilan, meaning "rare", Zoe's Imperial-pigeon, Superb suggestive of its exceptionally deli- Description Fruit-dove, Pink-spotted Fruit- cate scent. A more widely accepted dove, Coroneted Fruit-dove, translation is "flower of flowers". Cananga odorata is a fast-growing Orange-bellied Fruit-dove, and The plant is native to the tree of the custard-apple family, Wompoo Fruit-dove. Philippines and Indonesia and is Annonaceae, that exceeds 5 m (15 commonly grown in Polynesia, ft) per year and attains an average Chemical Constituents Melanesia, Micronesia and height of 12 m (40 ft). It grows in Comoros Islands. full or partial sun, and prefers the Typical chemical compositions of acidic soils of its native rainforest the various grades of Ylang ylang Characteristics habitat. The evergreen leaves are are reported as follows: smooth and glossy, oval, pointed, The fragrance of ylang-ylang is rich with wavy margins, and 13–20 cm Linalool and deep with notes of rubber and (5–8 in) long. The flower is droop- custard, and bright with hints of ing, long-stalked, with six narrow Germacrene jasmine and neroli. The essential greenish yellow (rarely pink) oil of the flower is obtained through petals, rather like a sea star in Geranyl acetate steam distillation of the flowers and appearance, and yields a highly fra- separated into different grades

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(extra; 1; 2; 3) according to when the distillates are obtained. The main aromatic components of ylang-ylang oil are benzyl acetate, linalool, p-cresyl methyl ether, and methyl benzoate, responsible for its characteristic odor.

Uses

Ylang-ylang's essential oil makes up 29% of the Comoros' annual export (1998).

Ylang Ylang is a common ingredient in the herbal motion sickness product MotionEaze.

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A & E Connock Ltd. - United Kingdom

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

BOOK # 1 ( A - H ) Geranium

Jasmin Absolute

Linden Blossom

Rose Rose Absolute

Violet Leaf Absolute

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A. Fakhry & Company - Egypt

Natural Materials

Jasminum Grandiflorum

Pelargonium x Asperum

Rosa Centifolia Rosa Damascena

Viola Odorata

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A.N.E.C. - France

Endroit Produits

Géranium

Immortelle Iris

Jasmin Jonquille

Narcisse Néroli

Rock rose Rose

Tubéreuse

Violette

Ylang Ylang

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Adrian Industries SAS - France

Products

Geranium Algeria Linalool Geranium Bourbon Geranium China Menthyl Anthranylate Geranium Egypt Menthyl Benzoate

Neroli Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Organic Essential Oils Terpineol

Geranium Oil - Organic Essential Oils Pelargonium Graveolens Geranium Oil - Palmarosa Oil - Pelargonium Graveolens Andropogon Martini Rose Oil - Lavandin - Grosso, Abrialis, Rosa Damascea Super Lavender - Ylang Ylang Complete, I, II, III, Lavandula Angustifolia and Extra - Cananga Odorata Neroli Oil - Citrus Aurantium Aromatic Raw Materials Palmarosa Oil - Acetophenone Andropogon Martini Acetyl Eugenol Rose Oil - Benzyl Acetate Rosa Damascea

Geranyle Acetate

Heliotropine

Iso Eugenol

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Africa Trade - Africa

Essential Oils

Morocco Essential Oils Ref AF 3482

Bitter Orange Leaves Bitter Orange Peel

Rose: Standard, petals & rosebuds

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Albert Vieille SA - France

Maitieres Premietres Aromatiques

Geranium Oil - China, Egypt

Neroli Oil - Morocco, Tunisia

Ylang Ylang Oil - Comoro Islands Ylang Ylang Extra - Comoro Ylang Ylang Extra’s - Comoro Ylang Ylang First Oil - Comoro Ylang Ylang Second Oil - Comoro Ylang Ylang Third Oil - Comoro

Absolues

Carnation Abs. - Egypt

Frangipanni Abs. - Comoros

Jasmine Abs. - India Jasmine Abs. Sambac - India Jasmine Abs. - Egypt

Mimosa Abs. - France

Orange Flower Abs. - Egypt

Rose Abs. - Morocco, Turkey Rose De Mai Abs. - France

Tuberose Abs. - India

Violet Abs. - Egypt

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Alfa Chem - USA

Fine Aroma Materials

Cananga Oil Orange Flower Abs. Benzyl Salicylate

Geranium Oil Bourbon Violet Leaf Abs. Citronellyl Formate Geranium Oil Chinese Citronellyl nitrile Geranium Oil Egyptian Ylang Ylang Abs. Geranium Oil Moroccan Geraniol Concretes Geranyl Formate Neroli Moroccan Geranyl Tiglate Neroli Tunisian Geranium Concrete Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Orange Oil Bitter C.P. Jasmin Concrete - Various sources Hydroxycitronellal Orange Oil Bitter 5-Fold Jonquil Concrete Iso Eugenol Ylang Ylang Extra Mimosa Concrete French Iso Eugenyl Acetate Ylang Ylang I Mimosa Concrete Moroccan Ylang Ylang II Lily Aldehyde Ylang Ylang III Orange Flower Concrete Linalool Ylang Ylang Complete Orris Concrete 8 % Linalool Ex-Bois De Rose natural Orris Concrete 15 % Linalool Ex Ho Oil natural Absolute Linalyl Acetate Violet Leaf Concrete Linalyl Butyrte Apple Abs. Linalyl Iso Butyrate Ylang Ylang Concrete Linalyl Propionate Broom Abs. ( Genet ) Aromatic Chemicals Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Genet Abs. (Broom) Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate Geranium Abs. Acetophenone Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Alpha Terpineol natural Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Jasmin Abs. - Various sources Alpha Terpineol synthetic Polarose Jonquil Abs. Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Aurantiol Yara Yara Mimosa Abs. Moroccan Mimosa Abs. French Benzyl Acetate

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Amen Organics - India

Products

Palmarosa Oil

Rhododendron Oil

Essential Oils

Gardenia Oil

Jamrosa Oil Jasmine Oil Jasmine Oil Pg Jasmine Sambac

Mimosa Seed Oil

Neroli Oil

Orange Oil Bitter

Rose Concrete Rose Crystals Rose Geranium Rose Hip Oil Rose Indian Rose Oil Rose Oil ( Ruh ) Rose Mary Oil Rose Water

Violet Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

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American Society of Perfumers - USA

Classification of Olfactory Notes

Rosy Notes AROMATIC MATERIALS Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Alcohol Geranium Rose Note Benzyl Formate Otto Rose Benzyl Propionate Palmarosa Citronellol Benzyl Salicylate Rose Abs. Damancenones Fleuramone Damascones Gelsone Floral Note Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Jasminal Acetate Dimethyl Octanol Jasmin Lactone Boronia Abs. Di Phenyl Methane cis-Jasmone Broom Abs. Di Phenyl Oxide Jessemal Cananga Geraniol Methyl Dihydro Jasmonate Carnation Abs. Geranyl Acetate Methyl Jasmonate Cassie Abs. Geranyl Benzoate Champaca Abs. Geranyl Butyrate Floral Note Everlasting Flower Abs. Geranyl Formate Hyacinth Abs. Nerol alpha-Anisy Propanal Jasmin Abs. Phenoxaflor Cyclamen Aldehyde Jonquil Abs. Phenoxanol Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol Karo - Karounde Abs. Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Ethyl Linalool Longoza Abs. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Helional Marigold Abs. Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mimosa Abs. Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Hydratropic Alcohol Narcissus Abs. Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Hydroxycitronellal Orris Concrete Rhodinol Irone Osmanthus Abs. Rhodinyl Acetate Lilial Reseda Abs. Rose Oxide Linalool Tuberose Abs. Tri Choloro Methyl Phenyl Lyral Violet Leaf Abs. Carbinyl Acetate Majantol Ylang Ylang Mayol Jasmin Note p-Methyl Acetophenone Methyl Benzoate Alpha-Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Piperonyl Acetone

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Terpineol Tetra Hydro Mugenol

122 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. - India

Products

Geraniol 60 Geraniol 98

123 Glen O. Brechbill

Anupam Industries - India

Product Catalog

Adoxal Ethyl Linalool Hydroxy Extra Aldehyde C - 8 Aldehyde C - 11 Fleuramone Interleven Aldehyde Aldehyde C - 11 Iso Floraal Ionone 100 % Alpha Amyl Cinnamic Floralozone Ionone Pure Aldehyde Extra Florhydral Irisone Alpha Amyl Benzoate Florosa O Irisone Pure Amyl Salicylate Folione Irone Alpha Aquanol Folrosia Irotyl Iso Amyl Benzyl Ether Benzyl Acetate FFC Gardenia Fleuriff Iso Jasmone B 11 Benzyl Salicylate Gardionolene Iso Raldeine 70 Beta Ionone ( Greenyl Propionate ) Iso Raldeine 95 Bourgenal Gelsone Geraniol 98 % Jasmonyl LG Cinnamic Alcohol Extra Geraniol Ex Palmrosa Jasmal Citronellol 96 % Geraniol Extra Jasmatone Citronellol Extra Geranoxide Jasmelia Citronellyl Acetate Extra Geranyl Acetate Extra Jasmone CIS Citronellyl Formate Geranyl Formate Jasmopyrane Forte Citronellyl Nitrile Geranyl Propionate Jessemal Citronellyl Propionae Givescone Cyclamen Aldheyde Gamma Glycolierral Kharismal Cyclorose Green Acetate Gyrane Leaf Acetal Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol Liffarome Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Ligustral Acetate Hyacinth Body Lilial Di Methyl Octonol Hyacinth Body # 1 Linalool Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Hydratropic Aldehyde Linalool Synthetic Hydrotropic Aldehyde Lolitol Efetaal Di Methyl Acetal Lyral Empetal Hydroxycitronellol Lyrame

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Lyrame Supalang Syvertal Melafleur Methyl Ionone Terpineol Excel Methyl Ionone Gamma ( Alpha Terpineol ) Methyl Octyne Carbonate Terpineol Perfumery Grade Methyl Tuberate Pure Muguet Aldehyde Undecatriene 10 % Undecavertol Neo Folione Nerol Oxide Nerol Super Nerolax Neroli NC Neroli Super NC Nonadienal

Orris Simpliff Orivone Osmanthus Fleuriff

Para Cresyl Acetate Phenafleur Phenoxanol Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Pommerol Precyclemone B

Rhodinol Rhodinol ( Ex-Geranium Oil ) Rosalva Rose Crystals Ex Benzaldehyde Rose Glycol Rose Otto Rose Oxide ( High-Cis ) Rose Oxide ( Inactive ) Roseate

Stemone Styrallyl Acetate Supafleur

125 Glen O. Brechbill

Aromatic Collection - France

Endroit: Produits

Bitter Orange Oil Jasmin Egyptian

Cananga Oil Mimosa

Geranium Oil Bourbon Rosa Bulgarian Geranium Oil Chinese Geranium Oil Egyptian Floral Waters

Neroli Oil Orange-Flower Water

Palmarosa Oil

Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Oil I Ylang Oil II Ylang Oil III Ylang Oil Complete

Natural Isolates

Linalool

Nerolidol

Rhodinol

Natural Dirivatives

Iso - Eugenol

Concretes & Absolutes

Blackcurrant Bud

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Aromatic International LLC - USA

Odor Profiles

Floral Group Orris Osmanthus Acacia Apple Blossom Peony

Broom (Genet) Rose

Carnation Tuberose Chamomile Chrysanthemum Violet

Freesia Ylang Ylang

Gardenia Geranium

Heliotrope Honeysuckle Hyacinth

Jasmin

Lilac Lily

Magnolia Marigold Mimosa Muguet ( Lily of the Valley )

Narcissus

Orange Flower

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Aromatics Adl - France

Catalogue Des Produits

Cananga Ylang Ylang Acetyl Iso Eugenol Aldehyde Anisque Geranium Bourbon Absolues Des Eaux De Distillation Geranium Chine Benzoate Methyle Geranium Egypte Absolue Eau De Fleurs Oranger Espagne Citronellol 70 % Neroli Egypte Absolue Eau De Fleurs Oranger ( Autres Alcools: 28 % ) Neroli Maroc Maroc Citronellol 95 % Neroli Tunisie Absolue Eau De Fleurs Oranger Citronellol 97 % Tunisie Citronellol 98 % Palmarosa Guatemala Citronellol Savon Palmarosa Madagascar Eau Florales Formiate Citronellyle Rose Bulgarie Eau De Fleurs D’Oranger Tunisie Formiate Geranyle Rose Maroc Eau De Rose Bulgarie Rose Turquie Geraniol Ex Citronelle Produits Bruts D’Origine Vegetale Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Concretes Geraniol 50 % ( Autres Alcools Iris Racines Decortiquees Italie 48 % ) Jasmin Benzene Egypte Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % ) Jasmin Benzene Maroc Produits Aromatiques Definis Ex Geraniol 98 % Jasmin Hexane Egypte Naturel Et Synthetiques Geraniol 99 % Jasmin Hexane Inde Geraniol Savon Jasmin Hexane Maroc Acetate Benzyle 99 % Acetate Citronellye Ex Citriodora Hydroxycitronellal A Rose Atlas Maroc Acetate Citronellyle 85 % Hydroxycitronellal Pur Rose Centifolia Maroc Acetate Citronellyle 95 % Rose Turquie Acetate Geranyle Ex Citronelle Ionone Alpha Acetate Geranyle 65 % Ionone Alpha Incolore Tubereuse Inde Acetate Geranyle 98 % Ionone Beta Acetate Geranyle Savon Ionone Beta Savon Violette Feuilles Egypte Acetate Phenylethyle Ionone Brute Acetate Rhodinyle Bourbon Ionone Pure

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Ionone Savon Iso Eugenol

Linalol Ex Bois De Rose Bresil Linalol 97 % Linalol 98 % Linalol 99 %

Methyl Eugenol Methyl Ionone Alpha 75 % Beta 20 % Methyl Ionone Brute Methyl Ionone Gamma Methyl Ionone Iso Alpha Methyl Ionone Pure Methyl Ionone Savon Methyl Iso Eugenol

Nerol 85 % Nerol 90 % Neroline Bromelia Espagne Neroline Yara Yara Espagne

Phenyl Acetate D’Amyle Phenyl Acetate Ethyle Phenyl Acetate Methyle Propionate Citronellyle Propionate Geranyle

Rhodinol E

Salicylate Amyle N Salicylate Benzyle

129 Glen O. Brechbill

Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. - Israel

Products

Alpha Damascone

Beta Damascone

Damascenone Di Hydro Jasmone

130 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Artiste Flavor / Essence - USA

Fragrances & Specialty Ingredients

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil

Jasmine Oil

Neroli Oil

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Absolutes

Jasmine

Rose

Tuberose

Violet Leaves

Natural Aromatic Chemicals

Benzyl Acetate

Citronellol Laevo

Geraniol

Rhodinol

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Astral Extracts - USA

Products

Geranium

Jasmin Absolute ( Grandiflorum ) Jasmin Absolute ( Sambak )

Palmarosa

Ylang Ylang 1, 2, 3 + Extra

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Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K.

Fragrance Specialties & Essential Oils

Carnation Augaflor 51 Rose Oils Orange Flower

Geranium Augaflor 9 Ylang Ylang I Osmanthus Ylang Ylang II Jacinthe Augaflor 11 Ylang Ylang III Rose

Muguet Augaflor 16 Floral Waters Tuberose

Neroli Augaflor 17 Bramble Violet Leaf

Orange Flower Augaflor 53 Chamomile Ylang Cornflower Rhodinol Augaflor 18 Rosardia Augaflor 21 Orange Flower Rose Geranium Augaflor 19 Rose Otto Augaflor Rose Rose De Mai Tuberose Augaflor 25 Absolutes & Concretes Violet Augaflor 27 Bourgeon De Cassis Ylang Augaflor 28 Ylang Augaflor 31 Carnation

Essential Oils Eau De Brut Oranger

Cananga Oil Jasmin Jonquille Geranium Oils Mimosa Neroli Oils Narcissus Palmarosa Oil

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Australian Botanical Products Pty. Ltd. - Australia

Essential & Citrus Oils

Cananga Java

Geranium Geranium Bourbon Reunion Geranium China Geranium Egypt

Palmarosa

Rose Otto Bulgarian Rose Otto Damascena Turkish

Ylang Ylang 1 Ylang Ylang 2 Ylang Ylang 3 Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang Super Extra

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Axxence SARL - France

Specialty Materials

Neroli Marocco Specialities & Incolores Neroli Maroccco Orange Flower Absolutes Concretes Oranger

Broom Ylang Heart No. 1 Genet Ylang Heart No. 1 Ylang Heart No. 2 Iris Italy Ylang Heart No. 2 Iris Italie Ylang Heart No. 3 Ylang Heart No. 3 Jasmin Sambac Jasmin Sambac Travail a Facon Rectification Fractionnement Orange Flower Oranger Ylang Ylang Fractionated Osmanthus Ylang Ylang Fractionnee Osmanthus Ylang Ylang Terpeneless Ylang Ylang Deterpenee Rose Rose

Tuberose Tubereuse

Violet Viollettes

Molecules Naturelles

Irone natural Irone natural

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BASF - Germany

Products

Anisyl Propanal Anisic Aldehyde

Beta Ionone R

Citronellol Citronellyl Acetate Citronellyl Nitrile

Geraniol Extra Geraniol 60 Geranyl Acetone

Hydroxyciol Hydroxycitronellal

Jasmorange

Linalool Lysmeral

Nerolidol

136 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

BASF Japan Ltd. - Japan

Fine Chemicals

Anisalcohol Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal

Citronellol

Di Methyl Heptanol Di Methyl Heptenol

Hydroxyciol

Linalool

Nerolidol

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol pure

Aldehydes

Anis Aldehyde

Hydroxycitronellal

Jasmorange Jasmorange F

Lysmeral

Esters

Citronellyl Acetate

Others p - Cresyl Methyl Ether

137 Glen O. Brechbill

BFA Laboratoires - France

Essential Oils & Specialties

Cassia rectified Cinnamomum Aromaticum

Hydraresin Absolutes

Blackcurrant Ribes Nigrum

Alcoholates

Orris

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B.S. Industries - India

Essential Oils

Geranium Oil

Jamarosa Oil

Linalool

Palma Rosa Oil

Rodinol sweet Rodinol - X

139

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Bansal Aroma - India

Product List

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil

Jasmine Oil

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose ( Abs. ) Oil Rose Oil - Indian

Tuberose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Indian Attars

Jasmine

Rose

Herbal Extracts

Geranium Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Ylang Ylang

140

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Barosyl S.A. - France

Essential Oils

Cananga Java Ylang Ylang Extra Super Cananga Macrophylla Ylang Ylang I Cananga Odorata Geranium Bourbon Ylang Ylang II Pelargonium Asperum Cananga Odorata Geranium Chinese Ylang Ylang III Pelargonium Asperum Cananga Odorata Geranium Egyptian Pelargonium Asperum Organic Essential Oils Geranium Morocco Botanical Name Pelargonium Graveolens Neroli Neroli Comores Island Citrus Aurantium Flowers Citrus Aurantium Neroli Egyptian Rose Citrus Aurantium Rosa Damascena Neroli Morocco Citrus Aurantium Ylang Ylang Complete Neroli Tunisian Cananga Odorata Totum Citrus Aurantium Ylang Ylang Extra Cananga Odorata Extra Palmarosa Ylang Ylang I Cymbopogon Martinii V. Cananga Odorata I Ylang Ylang II Rosa Turkish Cananga Odorata II Rosa Damascena Ylang Ylang III Rose Bulgarian Cananga Odorata III

Ylang Ylang Complete Cananga Odorata Ylang Ylang Extra Cananga Odorata

141

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Bedoukian Research, Inc. - USA

Product Listing

Alpha - Ionol (e, e) - Farnesol 97 + % FCC Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate Alpha Ionone BRI FCC Farnesyl Acetate Methyl Heptine Carbonate Alpha Ionyl Acetate Farnesyl Acetone Methyl Jasmonate Alpha Iso Methyl Ionol Methyl 2-Nonenoate Alpha Iso Methyl Ionyl Acetate Gardenia Ether Methyl Anthranilate Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal Geraniol BRI FCC Methyl Nonyl Ketone FCC Geranyl Acetate FCC Methyl Octine Carbonate Beta Ionol Geranyl Acetone Methyl Octyl Ketone Geranyl Anthranilate cis-Jasmone Geranyl Benzoate FCC Nerolidol FCC Citronellol BRI FCC Geranyl Butyrate FCC Nerol Oxide Citronellyl Acetate BRI FCC Geranyl Caprylate Neryl Acetate BRI FCC Citronellyl Anthranilate Geranyl Formate FCC Neryl Formate Citronellyl Butyrate FCC Geranyl Iso Butyrate # 344 Neryl Iso Butyrate Citronellyl Formate FCC Geranyl Linalool Neryl Iso Valerate Citronellyl Iso Butyrate FCC Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Neryl Propionate Citronellyl Propionate FCC Geranyl Propionate e,z-2,6-Nonadien-1-AL Citronellyl Tiglate Geranyl Tiglate Di Ethyl Acetal Citronellyl Valerate 3,z-2,6-Nonadien-1-AL FCC Hasmigone 3,z-2,6-Nonadien-1-OL FCC Decanal Di Methyl Acetal ( Hexenyl Cyclo Pentanone ) e,z-2,6-Nonadienyl Acetate 9-Decen-1-OL Hydroxy Citornellal Di 3-Decen-2-ONE Ethyl Acetal Octenyl Cyclopentanone 9-Decen-1-YL Acetate cis-4-Decenal Di Ethyl Acetal Iso Amyl Geranate Para Cresyl Caprylate Decyl Anthranilate Iso Jasmone Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate Di Hydro Jasmone Parmavert Di Methyl Anthranilate Jasmolactone Extra C Phenyl Ethyl 2-Furoate Di Methyl Ionone Jasmonol Phenyl Ethyl Tiglate Jasmonyl Acetate Ethyl Geranate cis-Rose Oxide Lactone of CIS Jasmone # 411 Rose Oxide BRI Farnesol FCC Leaf Alcohol ( Ethyl Acetal )

142 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Schiff’s Base Lilial-Methyl Anthranilate Schiff’s Base Anisaldehyde-Methyl Anthran- ilate Schiff’s Base Canthoxal-Methyl Anthranilate Schiff’s Base Triplal-Methyl Anthranilate Styrallyl Propionate Tetra Hydro Jasmone Tetrahydroionol Tetrahydroionyl Acetate

Undecanal Di Methyl Acetal Undecenal-10 BRI FCC ( Undecylenic Aldehyde ) 2-Undecenyl Acetate ( High Trans ) levo-Vartol ( Rhodinol Substitute ) Vartol ( Rhodinol Substitute ) Vartyl Acetate BRI ( Rhodinyl a Sub )

143 Glen O. Brechbill

Bell Flavors & Fragrances - USA

Perfume Bases

Fleurs d’oranger abs. artess. Freesia

Hyacinthe abs. synthetic

Lilie

Phyllos

Rosenol synthetic

Schiff Bases

Anisic Aldehyde/ Methyl Anthranilate

Benzaldehyde/ Methyl Anthranilate

Cyclamen Aldehyde/ Methyl Anthranilate

Hydroxycitronellal/ Methyl Anthranilate

Lyral/ Methyl Anthranilate

Triplal/ Methyl Anthranilate

144 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Berge Inc. - USA

Essential Oils, Aroma Chemicals & Fragrance Specialties

Geranium Oil Chinese Citronellyl Nitrle Nerol Pure Geranium Oil Egyptian Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol Neryl Acetate Pure Jasmine Absolute D.M.B.C.A. D.M.B.C.B. Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Mimosa Absolute Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Ethyl Caproate Neroli Oil Rhodinol Ex Geranium Geraniol Rhodinol Synthetic Palmarosa Oil Rose Crystals Hydroxycitronellal Rose Oil Bulgarian Hydroxy Citronellal Dma Stryrallyl Acetate Rose Oil Turkish Hydroxycitronellal For Soap Hydroxycitronellal Fractions Violet Leaf Absolute Ionone Alpha Ylang Ylang Oil # 1 Ionone Alpha-beta Ylang Ylang Oil # 2 Ionone Beta Ylang Ylang Oil # 3 Ionone For Soap Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Linalool Aroma Chemicals Linalool Ex Bdr Linalool Natural Ex Howood Acetophenone Prime Linalool Synthetic FCC Agrumen Aldehyde BJ Anisic Aldehyde Methyl Anthranilate Anisyl Acetate Methyl Benzoate Methyl Eugenol Benzyl Acetate Methyl Ionone Alpha Benzyl Salicylate Methyl Ionone Bj Methyl Ionone Gamma Citronellol Natural Methyl Iso Eugenol Citronellol Pure

145

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Biolandes Parfumerie - France

Fine Essential Oils

Flowers & Flowering Heads Ylang Absolute

Chamomile Bioabsolutes

Hyssop Rose Bioabsolute

Lavandin Bioconcretes Lavender Rose Bioconcrete Sage Water Concentrates Specialties Geranium Water Concentrate Irone V Orange Flower Water Concentrate Absolutes Rose Water Concentrate Blackcurrant Absolute Blackcurrant Absolute 70 % DPG Biolandes Parfumerie Recon-stitu- tions Jasmine Absolute Jasmine India Absolute Neroli Artessence

Mimosa Absolute 80 % / DPG Orris Butter Artessence

Orange Flower Absolute Tuberose Artessence

Rose Absolute Decolorized Ylang Eco Essence Ylang Eco Essence AF 100 Tuberose Absolute

Violet Pays Absolute

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Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta Sa - Spain

Fine Essential Oils

Neroli Bigarade Oil Nerolin Bromelia Crystal 99 Neroli Blossom Water Nerolin Yara-Yara Crystal 99

Aroma Chemicals Rosalina Crystal

Alpha Ionone Extra Strallyl Acetate Alpha Ionone 700 Alpha Methyl Ionone Terpineol Alpha Crystallized Aromadendrene Terpineol 50

Benzyl Acetate Vertifloreol

Citronellol S 85 Citronellol S 95 Citronellyl Acetate Citronelly Formate Citronellyl Nitrile Citronellyl Nitrile Terpenes Citronellyl Propionate

Geraniol 970 Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Butyrate Geranyl Formate Geranyl Iso Butyrate Geranyl Nitrile

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde alpha

Iso Eugenol

Linalol Natural Linalol S 97

147

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Brighten Colorchem B.V. - The Netherlands

Product List of Aromatic Chemicals

Jasmine Concrete Lilial Linalool Neroli Oil Lyral

Rhodinol Methyl Acetophenone Para Methyl Anthranilate Aromatic Chemicals Methyl Benzoate Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate Alpha Iso Methyl Ionone Anis Aldehyde Nerolin Aurantiol Neroline Yara Yara

Benzophenone Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Benzyl Acetate F.F.C. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Citronellol Citronellyl Acetate Rosalin Cyclamen Aldehyde Styrallyl Acetate Di Hydro Citronellol Styrallyl Propionate

Geraniol Terpineol Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Butyrate Yara Yara Geranyl Formate Geranyl Propionate

Heliotropin Hydroxy Citronellal

Ionone Ionone Alha Ionone Beta

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Buckton Page Ltd. - U.K.

Product List

Cananga Oil Rose Damascenia Concrete South Africa/Turkey Geranium Oil Violet Leaf Concrete Neroli Oil Ylang Concrete Palmarosa Oil Absolutes Rose Oil Blackcurrant Buds Abs. Ylang Ylang Oils Broom Abs.

Concretes Geranium Abs.

Broom Concrete Jasmin Abs. Egypt Jasmin Abs. South Africa Carnation Concrete Jasmin Abs. Guinea Hexane Benzoil 5 ppm Jasmin Concrete Guinea Hexane Jonquil Wild Abs. Italy Jonquil Wild Concrete Italy Marigold Abs. ( Hollygold ) Mimosa Concrete Africa Mimosa Abs. Africa Mimosa Concrete France Mimosa Abs. France

Narcissus Concrete Orange Flower Water Abs. Orris Abs. Orange Flowers Concrete Guinea Orange Flowers Concrete Spain Orris Butter ( Concrete ) Osmantus Concrete

Rose Centifolia Concrete Double

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Carrubba Inc. - USA

Botanical Extracts

Acacia Acacia Decurrens

Broom Flower

Chrysanthemum

Geranium

Iris

Lilac Lily of the Valley Linden Flower

Magnolia Magnolia Flower Marigold Mimosa

Narcissus

Orange Flower

Peony

Rose Rose Centifolia Rose Geranium Rose Hips

Violet

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Castrading - Korea

Essential Oils

Cananga, Java

Geranium, Bourbon Geranium, China Geranium, Egypt

Neroli, France Neroli, Tunisia

Osmanthus Osmanthus Extract

Rose, Bulgaria Rose, Turkey

Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Ylang Concrete Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang No. 1 Ylang Ylang No. 2 Ylang Ylang No. 3

151

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Central States Chemical Marketing - USA

Bio Scent’s Product Catalog

Geranium Oil - Bourbon Geranium Oil - China Geranium Oil - Madagascar Geranium Oil - Moroccan

Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Oil, No. 1 Ylang Oil, No. 2 Ylang Oil, No. 3

Absolutes

Black Current Bud Abs.

Jasmine Abs. - Egypt

Concrete

Orris Butter / Root

152

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Champon Vanilla, Inc. - USA

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga Methyl Anthranilate Methyl Benzoate Geranium Methyl Ionone Methyl Ionone Alpha Palmarosa Methyl Nonal Ketone

Ylang Concrete Nerol Ylang Extra Nerolin Bromelia Ylang No. 1 Nerolin Yara Yara Ylang No. 2 Ylang No. 3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Aromatic Chemicals Rose Crystals

Alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Terpineol Alpha Terpineol Anisic Aldehyde

Citronellyl Nitrile

Geraniol Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Nitrile

Hydroxycitronellal

Ionone Alpha / Beta Ionone Gamma Iso Eugenol Iso Eugenol Acetate

Linalool synthetic Lyral

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Charabot & Company Inc. - France

Fine Essential Oils

Acetate Eugenol Acetate Iso Eugenol

Eugenol Acetate

Geraniol Extra Geranium Bourbon Geranyl Acetate Extra

Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol

Palmarosa Oil

Rhodinol X Geranium Oil

Tuberose Pommade

Violet Leaves Abs.

Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Ylnag “ First “ Ylang Ylang “ Second “ Ylang Ylang “ Third “

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China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd. - China

Essential Oils & Imported Products

Geranium Oil Rose Wild Concrete

Magnolia Oil Tinctures

Neroli Oil Iris Tincture

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Absolutes

Iris Abs.

Jasmine Abs.

Neroli Abs.

Osmanthus Abs.

Wild Chrysanthemum Abs. Wild Rose Abs.

Concretes

Chrysanthemum Indicum Concrete Chrysanthemum Wild Concrete

Iris Concrete

Jasmine Concrete

Rose Concrete

155

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China Perfumer - China

On Line Catalogs

Charabot SA Jasmine Abs. India Orris Concrete 8 % Jasminum Sambac Abs. Cananga Oil Aromatic Chemicals Marigold Abs. Egypt Geranium Oil Mimosa Abs. India Acetyl Eugenol Geranium Oil Bourbon Acetyl Iso Eugenol Geranium Oil China Narcissus Abs. Geranium Oil Egypt Citronellol ( ex Citronella Oil ) Geranium Oil Morocco Orange Flower Abs. Morroco Orange Flower Abs. Spain Geraniol ( ex Citronella Oil ) Neroli Oil Orange Flower Abs. Tunis Geraniol ( ex Palmarosa Oil ) Neroli Oil Morocco Orange Flower Water Abs. Spain Neroli Oil Tunis Orris Abs. Morocco Hydroxy citronellal Orris Abs. ( ex Citriodora Oil ) Palmarosa Oil Brazil Osmanthus Abs.Pimenta Abs. Iso Eugenol Rose Oil Bulgaria Rose Abs. Bulgaria Rose Oil Turkey Rose Abs. Turkey Methyl Iso Eugenol Methyl-n-Anthranilate Ylang Oil Violet Leaf Oil Abs. Egypt Ylang Oil I Violet Leaf Oil Abs. Decolor Ylang Oil II Egypt Ylang Oil III Violet Leaf Oil Abs. Ylang Oil Extra Morocco Ylang Oil I Morocco Ylang Abs. Ylang Oil II Madagascar Ylang Oil II Morocco Concretes Ylang Oil III Madagascar Ylang III Morocco Mimosa Concrete India

Absolutes Orris Concrete Morocco Orris Concrete Italy Jasmine Abs. Egypt Orris Concrete 15 %

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Chinessence Ltd. - China

Key Products

Aromatic Chemicals

4 - Terpinenol Anisaldehyde

Benzyl Acetate

Citronellol

Linalool ( Synthetic )

Methyl Anthranilate 99 %

Nerolin Bromelia Neroline Yara Yara

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Rosaline

Terpineol PG 95 %

157

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Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda. - Brazil

Perfume Bases, Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Bases Parfumaria Acetato Benzila onol CP Acetato Citronelila Ionona CP Geranium Givco 222 Acetato De Geranila Ionona Alfa Geranium Graveolens Oil A0650 Acetato Di Methyl Benzil Carbinol Ionona Beta Acetofenona Irone Alpha Iris Givco 204/2 Adoxal Iso Eugenol Aldeido C - 12 Laurico Iso Jasmone B 11 Lindenblossom Givco 151 PMF Aldeido Amil Cinamico Iso Raldeine 70 Aldeido Anisco Rose Givco 217 Aldeido Cyclamen Jasmorange Aldeido Hexil Cinamico Tuberose Artessence E4987 Antranilato Metila Lilial Lyral Vert De Cassis Givco 180 Cassis Base 345B Cis Jasmone Metil Ionona Gama Ylang Eco Essence E5380 Citronelol Metil Nonil Ketone

Aromaterapia Damascenone Nerol Damascenone Alpha Nerolidol Synthetic Geranium Graveolens Oil Damascenone Beta Nonadienal Damascone Delta Nonadienol 2, 6 Neroli Aurantium Oil Di Hydro Ionone Beta Di Metil Antranilato Octine Carbonato De Metila Palmarosa Cymbopogon Oil Di Metil Octanol Oranger Cristals Oxido Linalol Rose Damascena BG Oil Farnesol Rose Damascena TK Oil Florydral Peonile Folione Ylang Odorata Oil Folrosia Rosa Oxido Racemico Rosacetal Perfumaria Geraniol Geranyl Nitrile Silvial Acetal R

158

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Terpineol

Velvione

159 Glen O. Brechbill

Citrus & Allied - USA

Citrus & Aroma Products

Synthetic Aroma Chemicals Citronellol Extra EOA 93/95 % Neryl Formate Synthetic 95 Citronellol Pure FCC Citronellol Coeur FCC Citronellyl Acetate Extra FCC Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol & Esters Citronellyl Butyrate Extra FCC Geraniol Coeur FCC Citronellyl Formate Extra FCC Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra Geraniol Synthetic 85 FCC Citronellyl Formate Pure Phenyl Ethyl Formate Geraniol Synthetic 98 FCC Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Extra FCC Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Geranyl Acetate Synthetic 85 Citronellyl Propionate Extra Geranyl Butyrate Synthetic 85 % Geraniol & Esters Linalool Synthetic FCC Geraniol ( Fine Perfumery ) Nerol Synthetic 95 % FCC Geraniol Coeur FCC Neryl Acetate Synthetic 95 Geraniol ex Palma Rosa Neryl Formate Synthetic 95 Geraniol Extra EOA 92/94 % Geraniol Super EOA 96/98 % Natural Aroma Chemicals Geraniol Synthetic 95 FCC Geraniol Synthetic 98 FCC Alpha Terpineol NQ Geranyl Acetate 85/90 T FCC Geranyl Acetate 95/97 % FCC Laevo Linalool ( Ex-Basil ) Geranyl Acetate Extra Laevo Linalool ( Ex-Ho Wood ) Geranyl Acetate Extra FCC Geranyl Acetate Super FCC Methyl Anthranilate Geranyl Acetate Synthetic 85 Geranyl Formate Extra FCC Neral Crude Geranyl Iso Butyrate Extra Neral Refined 94/95 % Geranyl Propionate Extra

Citronellol & Esters Nerol & Esters

Citronellal 85/90 % FCC Nerol Special FCC Citronellal Residues Nerol Synthetic 95 % Citronellol Coeur FCC Neryl Acetate Synthetic 95

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Clos D’Aguzon - France

Matieres Premieres Aromatiques

Geranium Oil Bourbon Aromatic Chemicals Garanium Oil Chinese Geranium Oil Egyptian Citronellyl Butyrate Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Neroli Oil Citronellyl Formate Citronellyl Propionate Palmarosa Oil Citronellyl Tiglate

Ylang Oil Extra Geranyl Butyrate Ylang Oil I Geranyl Formate Ylang Oil II Geranyl Iso Butyrate Ylang Oil III Geranyl Propionate Ylang Oil Complete

Concretes & Absolutes

Black Currant Bud

Jasmin Egyptian

Rose Bulgarian

Floral Waters

Orange - Flower Water

Natural Isolate

Nerolidol

Rhodinol

161

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Cokson & Hunt International Co. - USA

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga Oil - Indonesia

Geranium Oil - Egypt, China, Comores

Aromatic Chemicals

Linalool

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Terpineol

162

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Creative Fragrances Ltd. - USA

Essential Oils

Cananga Oil - Indonesia

Geranium Oil Bourbon - Reunion Geranium Oil Egyptian - Egypt

Jasmin Absolute Maroc - Morocco

Mimosa Absolute - France

Neroli Bigarade Oil - Tunisia

Palmarosa Oil - India

Rose Absolute Maroc - Morocco Rose Oil Otto - Bulgaria

Ylang Ylang Oil # 3 - Comoros Ylang Ylang Oil Bourbon Extra- Reunion

163

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

DMH Ingredients - USA

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga Java

Geranium - Algeria, Bourbon China

Neroli

Rose Bulgarian Rose Turkish

Ylang Ylang

164

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De Monchy Aromatics, Inc. - U.K.

Essential Oils & Specialties

Geranium Chinese

Rose Bulgarian Rose Turkish

Ylang Ylang III

Aroma Chemicals

Citronellol Citronellyl Butyrate Citronellyl Formate Citronellyl Propionate

Linalool

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl 2-Methyl Butyrate

Natural Aroma Chemicals

Geraniol Geranyl Acetate

Linalool

Terpineol Alpha

165

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Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a. - Spain

Essential Oils, Aroma Chemicals & Flavours

Aromatic Chemicals

Citronellol Mugasa 92 %

Geraniol Pure Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Nitrile

Linalool Pure natural

Nerol 98 % Neryl Acetate

Terpineol B.P. Terpineol Standard

166

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Diffusions Aromatiques - France

Matieres Premieres Aromatiques

Produit De Synthese

Acetate De Benzyle Aldehyde Amyl Cinnamique ( Jasmonal A ) Aldehyde Hexyl Cinnamique ( Jasmonal H ) Antranilate De Methyle

Bois Ambrene Forte

Citronellol 95 %

Ionone Alpha Ionone Beta

Linalol Lysmeral Lysral

Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate ( Hedione )

Super Cepionate

Produits Naturels

Bois De Rose Huile Essentielle

Jonquille Absolue Pays

Magnolia Fleurs Huile Essentielle

167

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Dulcos Trading - France

Liste de Produits

Cananga Indonesie

Geranium Bourbon Geranium Chine Geranium Egypte

Neroli Italie Neroli Maroc Neroli Tunisie

Palmarosa Inde Palmarosa Madagascar

Ylang Extra Comoros Ylang Extra S Comoros Ylang Ylang 1 Comoros Ylang Ylang II Comoros Ylang Ylang III Comoros

Jus De Fruits Concentres

Cassis

Extraits

Bourgeons de Cassis - France

Iris Racines - Moldavie

Ylang Ylang - Comoros

168

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Dullberg Konzentra GmbH - Germany

Fine Essential Oils

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

169

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Earth Oil Plantations Ltd. - U.K.

Organic Essential Oils

Geranium Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

170

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Enter Oil - Viet Nam

Essential Oils

Palmarosa Oil Geraniol 60 % min. Geraniol 75 % min.

Isolates

Geraniol - ex Palmarosa Oil 95 %, ex Citronella Oil 90 % min.

Terpineol - a-Teprineol 60 % min.

171

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Eramex Aromatics GmbH - Germany

Esential, Citrus Oils & Aromataic Chemicals

Geranium Oil, Chinese Rose Absolute / Concrete, Egypt Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Geranium Oil, Egyptian Rose Absolute, Turkey Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Palmarosa Oil, Indian Tuberose Absolute / Concrete

Rose Oil, Russian Violet Absolute / Concrete Rose Oil, Turkish Aroma Chemicals Natural Ylang Ylang Oils Extra Ylang Ylang Oils I iso-Eugenol Ylang Ylang Oils II Ylang Ylang Oils III Geraniol ex Palmarosa

Absolute / Concretes Aroma Chemicals

Bitter Orange Absolute / Concrete Amyl Salicylate Egyptian Anis Aldehyde

Carnation Absolute, Egyptian Cyclamen Aldehyde

Geranium Absolute Damascenone alpha-Damascone Jasmin Absolute / Concrete, beta-Damascone Egyptian Jasmin Sambac Absolute / Geranyl Acetate Concrete cis-Jasmone Mimosa Absolute dihydro-Jasmone iso-Jasmone Narcissus Absolute Linalool Osmanthus Absolute / Concrete Linalool Oxide

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Esarco - Argentina

Organic Herbs

Iso Eugenol Oil

Palmrosa Oil

Aromatic Chemicals

Leaf Acetate natural - 98 % Leaf Alcohol natural - 98 % Linalool - Perfumery Grade Linalool - ( Ex - Citrata ) Linalool Oxide

173

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Esencias y Materiales Lozmar, S.A. de C.Y. - Mexico

Esencias

Cananga Metil Ionona ( Iso Raldehina ) Metil Octin Carbonato Quimicos De Aromaticos Nerol Acetato De Bencilo Nerolina Yara Yara Acetato De Geranilo Acetato De Nerilo Oxide De Rosa Acetato De Styralilo Acetofenona Propionato De Bencilo Aldehido Alpha Amil Cinamico Propionato De Geranilo Aldehido Alpha Hexil Cinamico Aldehido Anisco Rosafix ( Rosacetol ) Aldehido C 11 Undecilico Salicilato De Amilo Citronelol Salicilato De Bencilo

Ethyl Linalol Terpineol

Formiato De Geranilo Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang I Geranol Africa Ylang Ylang II Geranio Plamarosa Ylang Ylang III Geraniol

Hedione Hidroxicitronelal

Ionona Alpha Ionona Beta

Lilial Linalool Lyral

174

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Esperia S.p.A - Italy

Essential Oils

Neroly

Rose Riviera

175

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Essencia, Aetherische Oele Ag - Switzerland

Liste des Produits

Canange Java Rose De Mai Absolue Hydroxycitronellal Cananga Odorata Rosa Centifolia Hydroxycitronellal Di Methyl Acetal Geranium Bourbon Violettes Feuilles Absolue Pelargonium Graveolens Viola Odorata Irisone Geranium Egypte Mixed Ionones Pelargonium Graveolens Matieres Premieres Aromatiques Irisone, alpha Irone, alpha Neroli Bigarade Ph.Eur.4 Acetansole Iso - Eugenol Citrus Amara Acetate De Benzyle Iso Eugenol Acetate De Geranyle Iso - Jasmon B 11 Rose Bulgarie Geranyle Acetate Iso - Phytol Rosa Damascena Acetate De Styralyle Iso - Raldeine 70 Rose Turquie Acetophenone Iso - Raldeine 95 Rosa Damascena Iso - Rosal 38 C Damascenone Totale Ylang Ylang Extra Damascone, alpha Jasmonyl Cananga Odorata Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Ylang Ylang II Lilial Cananga Odorata Farnesol synthetique Linalol D’Ethyl Folrosia Linalol synthetique Absolutes Formiate De Geranyle Linalool Lyral Fleur D’Oranger Absolue Geraniol Extra pur Citrus Amara Geraniol Nerol extra LG Geranyl Acetone Nerolidol synthetique Jasmin Absolue Egypte Geranyl Nitrile Neroline Bromelia Jasminum Grandiflorum Hedione Salicylate D’Amyle Osmanthus Absolue Methyl-dihydro Jasmonat Amyl Salicylate Osmanthus Fragrans Salicylate De Benzyle Benzyl Salicylate

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Euma - Argentina

Essential Oils & Natural Products

Cananga Rosa Mosqueta Organica ( rosa rubiginosa ) Geranium Africa Rosa Mosqueta Refinada Geranium Bourbon Oil ( rosa rubiginosa ) Geranium Oil Rosa Turca Absoluto

Nerolin Bromelia Ylang Ylang I Nerolin Yara Yara ( cananga odorata 1ª dest. ) Ylang Ylang II Palma Rose Oil ( cananga odorata 2ª dest. ) Ylang Ylang III Rose Hip Oil Refined ( Clair ) ( cananga odorata 3ª dest. ) Rose Hip Oil Pressure Distilled ( Coloured )

Ylang Ylang I Ylang Ylang III

Aceites Esenciales & Productos Naturales

Cananga Ac. Es.

Geranio Aceite Esencial (pelargonium domesticum) Geranio Africa Geranio Borbon Ac. Es. ( pelargonium bourbon )

Palmarosa Ac. ( cymbopogon martinii var Motia )

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Exaflor - France

Catalogue

Neroli MAROC

Ylang Ylang Neroli

Huiles Essentielles Promenez Vous TUNISIE Sur La Carte Eau de fleur d’oranger BRESIL TURQUIE Bois de rose Eau de rose BULGARIE Concretes et Absolutes Rose Genet - Italie EGYPTE Jasmin - Egypte Geranium rosat Jasmin - Inde

Jasmin ( absolue & concrete ) Mimosa - Inde

INDE Rose - Egypte

Mimosa Tubereuse - Inde

Palmarosa Violette - Egypte

ITALIE

Neroli

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FD Copeland & Sons Ltd. - UK

Essential Oils

Canaga Oil Jasmin Concrete

Geranium Oil - Bourbon Rose Concrete Geranium Oil - Chinese Geranium Oil - Egyptian

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Otto

Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Oil no.1 Ylang Oil no.2 Ylang Oil no.3

Absolutes

Carnation Abs.

Jasmin Egyptian Abs. Jasmin Moroccan Abs.

Rose Abs.

Treemoss Abs. Tuberose Abs.

Concretes

Iris Abs. Concrete

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FFC Aromas Private Limited - India

Products

Ionone

180 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Farotti Essences srl - Italy

Natural Essential Oils

Bitter Orange Sicily Essence

Geranium Bourbon FA Essence Geranium Egypt Essence Geranium Palmarosa Turkey Essence

Neroli Egypt Essence

Rose Morocco Abs. Essence Rose Morocco Essence

Ylang Ylang I Essence Ylang Ylang III Essence

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Fayyum Gharbya Aromatic - Egypt

Product List

Geranium Oil Tuberose Concrete Pelargonium Graveolens L. Polyanthus Tuberosa L.

Neroli Oil Violet Leaves Concrete Citrus Aurantium L. Viola Odorata L.

Absolutes

Bitter Orange Flower Abs. Citrus aurantium L.

Carnation Flower Abs. Dianthus Caryophyllus

Jasmine Abs. Jasminum Grandiflorum

Tuberose Abs. Polyanthus Tuberosa L.

Violete Leaves Abs. Viola Odorata L.

Concretes

Carnation Flower Concrete Dianthus Caryophyllus L.

Geranium Concrete Hexane Pelargonium

Jasmine Concrete Jasminum Grandiflorum

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Fine Chemical Trading Ltd. - U.K.

Products

Geranium Chamomille Mimosa Geranium ( Rose ) Rose, Edward - Bourbonia Jamrosa Tuberose Palamarosa

Rose

Ylang - Ylang Extra

Absolutes

Frangipani

Jasmine Grandiflorum Jasmine Sambac

Mimosa

Rose, Edward Bourbonia Rose, Damascenia

Tuberose

Concretes

Frangipani

Jasmine Grandiflorum Jasmine - Juuhi Jasmine Sambac

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Firmenich SA - Switzerland

Product Catalogue

Aldehyde C 11 Undecylic Jacintheme 135 SA Aldehyde C - 9 Jacintheme 135 SAE Jasmolactone Cassis Base 345 B Jasmophor Cetylia Base B Cetylia Base T Lorysia Cyclomethylene Citronellol Cyclopidene Mayol Cyclosia Base Floral Rosessence 193 D Damarose Alpha Damascenia 185 HB Veloutone Damascenone Violettyne MIP Damascenone Total Damascone Alpha Wardia Damascone Beta Damascone Beta FAB Damascone Delta Damascone Gamma Delphone Doremox Dorina SA E

Galbex 183

Hedione Hedione FAB Hedione HC

Iralia Iralia Total Iris Concrete Synthetic 199 L Iso Pentyrate

184 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Fiveash Data Management, Inc., - USA

Spectra of Essential Oils

Cananga Indonesia

Geranium Bulgaria, China, Egypt, India, Madagascar, Reunion Island, South Africa

Palmarosa India

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Flavodor - The Netherlands

Catalogues

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil, Misc. Origins

Ylang - Ylang Oils

Absolute / Resinoids

Boronia Broom ( Genet )

Jasmin Jonquil

Narcisus

Orris Osmanthus

Rose

Tuberose

Violet

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Fleurchem, Inc. - USA

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga Aldehyde C - 9 Alpha Terpinenol Geranium, Algerian Anisic Alcohol Geranium, Bourbon Anisic Aldehyde Geranium, Chinese Geranium, Egyptian Benzyl Acetate Geranium, Moroccan Citronellol Neroli, Moroccan Citronellyl Formate Neroli, Tunisian Geraniol, Crude Palmarosa, Brazil Geraniol, Perfumery Grade Palmarosa, Guatemalan Geranyl Formate Palmarosa, Indian Hydroxycitronellal Rose Otto, Bulgarian Rose Otto, Moroccan Ionone, Alpha Rose Otto, Turkish Ionone, Beta Ionone, Gamma Methyl Ylang, Complete Ylang, Extra l-Linalool ex BDR Ylang, I Ylang, II Nerolin Bromelia Ylang, III Nerolin Yara Yara Ylang Oil ( Fleur ) Rose Crystals ( Rose Acetal ) Aromatic Chemicals Schiff Base - Hydroxycitronellal/ Alcohol C - 8 Methyl Anthranilate Alcohol C - 9 Schiff Base - Lilial/ Alcohol C - 10 Methyl Anthranilate Alcohol C - 11 Schiff Bases Aldehyde C - 8 Styrallyl Acetate

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Fleurin, Inc. - USA

Product Listing

Geranium Oil Concretes

Neroli Oil Orris Concrete

Rose Oil - Bulgaria Ylang Ylang Concrete Rose Oil - Turkey

Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Ylang I, II, III

Absolutes

Bourgeons De Cassis Abs.

Genet Abs. Geranium Abs.

Hyacinth Abs.

Narcisse Abs.

Orange Flower Abs.

Rose Abs. - Bulgaria Rose De Mai Abs. Rose Abs. - Morocco

Tuberose Abs.

Violet Leaves Abs.

Ylang Ylang Abs.

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Flexitral, Inc. - USA

Fine Product List

Jasphene

Lioral

Ribescone - Alpha & Delta

Trinalool

189 Glen O. Brechbill

Florachem Corporation - USA

Aroma Chemicals

Blossom Water

Neroli Bigarad

Aroma Chemicals

Alpha - Terpineol

Citronellol Natural Citronellyl Acetate Citronellyl Nitrile Citronellyl Propionate

Iso Amyl Salicylate Iso Eugenol

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Nerolin Yara Yara Crystals

Rosalina Crystal

Terpineol Super ( European Type ) Terpineol DBCH ( Coeur )

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc. - USA

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga

Geranium

Palmarosa Oil

Ylang Ylang # 1 Ylang Ylang # 2 Ylang Ylang # 3

Aromatic Chemicals

Benzyl Acetate

Dimethyl Anthranilate

Geraniol

Ionone, Alpha Ionone, Beta Irone Alpha

Linalool Linalool - Laveo

Terpineol-4 Natural

191

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Frey + Lau GmbH - Germany

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil

Jasmine Absolute

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Aromatic Chemicals

Nerolin Bromelia

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Fritzsche SAICA - Argentina

Products

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil

Neroli Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Absolutes & Concretes

Violet Leaf

193

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Fruitarom Industries - Israel

Essential Oils, Citrus & Specialties

Geranium Oil Geranium Oil African Geranium Oil Bourbon Geranium Oil Chinese Geranium Oil Egypt

Neroli Oil Neroli Oil Tunisian

Rose Geranium Oil Rose Oil Turkish Rose Oil Type NF17

Ylang Ylang 2 Ylang Ylang 3 Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang Petals

Specialties

Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant

194

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Fuerst Day Lawson - U.K.

Essential Oils & Aroma Chemicals

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil Bourbon Geranium Oil Chinese Geranium Oil Egyptian

Ylang Oils

Aroma Chemicals

Benzyl Acetate

Cyclamen Aldehyde

Iso Eugenol

Linalol natural

Neroline Bromelia Neroline Yara Yara

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Rosalin

Styrallyl Acetate

Terpineol ( China ) MU

195

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

GMPCT - India

Essential Oils & Perfumery Chemicals

Garaneol - High Purity Rose Crystals from Benzaldehyde Rose Oxide from Citronellol Jamrosa Oil Styrallyl Acetate Palmorasa Oil Terpeneol & its derivatives from Ylang Ylang Oil Alpha Pinene Terpineol ( Chemical Grade ) Aromatic Chemicals Terpineol ( Prefumary Grade ) alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Yara Yara alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde from Benzaldehyde

Benzyl Acetate

Citronellol from centronellal Citronellol - High Purity

Geraniol from Citral

Hdroxy citronellal from Citronellal and Citronellol

Linalool ( Ex-Basil Oil ) Linalool

Nerol and its derivatives from Beta Pinene Nerolin Bromelia

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

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Givaudan Fragrance Corporation - Switzerland

Specialty Bases & Aroma Chemicals Compendium

Dossinia Givco 167 PFM Di Hydro Ionone Beta Nerolidol Synthetic Di Methyl Anthranilate Nonadienal Geranium Givco 222 Nonadienol Green Ivy Givco 168 Ethyl Linalool Peonile Honeyrose Givco 219 Florhydral Folione Raldeine A GV Iris Givco 204/2 Folrosia Stemone Jasmin Etoile Givco 144 Gernaodyle Syringa Aldehyde

Lindenblossom Givco 151 PMF Ionantheme 100 % Undecavertol Ionone Beta Orris Givco 204/2 Irisone Alpha Verdantiol Irisone Pure Rose Givco 217 Irone Alpha Givaudan/Quest International Isojasmone B - 11 Perfumers Compendium Souroubea Givco 202 Isoraldeine 70 Isoraldeine 95 Anther Vert de Cassis Givco 180 Apple Blossom FM243 Jasmone Cis Ylang Givco 225 Jsmonyl LG Benzyl Acetate Coeur Benzyl Iso Eugenol Forte Aroma Chemicals Compendium Linalool Oxide Benzyl Propionate Linalool Synthetic Bourgenal Adoxal Aldehyde Iso C - 11 Methyl Anthranilate Extra Calyxol Anisyl Acetate Methyl Diantilis Cassis AB 2967 Anisyl Alcohol Methyl Octyne Carbonate Citronellyl Nitrile Methyl Tuberate Pure Cyclal C Myraldyl Acetate Damas Rose FM1248 Cyclamen Aldehyde Di Hydro Eugenol Neofolione Di Hydro Jasmone

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Dorina SA Ozonal AB 7203 Dupical Pelargene Efetaal Penanol AB150 Elintaal Peony ABJ7098 Elintaal Forte Petilyn Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Floralyn Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra Floranyl AB256 Phenyl Ethyl Formate Florivert ABQ 7046 Rose AB380D Geraniol For Soap AB 2015 Roseania FM1018 Geranium Oil Syn ABQ 5629 Geranofix AB 751 Schiff Base Muguet Gyrane Schiff Base Lyantion

Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040 Top Jasmin ABJ 5374 Top Muguet FM1244 Ionone Top Rose ABQ5644 Iononyl Acetate Iononyl Formate Extra Verdilyn Iso Eugenol Iso Eugenol Sub. AB 655 Ylang Ylang Oil Iso Jasmone Pure

Jacinthflor ABQ 4581 Jasilyn Jasmacylene Jasmatone Jasmin AB13 Jasmin AB410 Jasmin Egyptian C 2612 Jasmopyrane Jasmopyrane Forte

Methyl De Hydro Jasmonate Methyl Ionone Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso Methyl Ionone Beta Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub.

Nacyntha ABQ 7043 Neroli AB78

198 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Global Essence Ltd. - U.K.

Products

Geranium Oil Palmarosa Oil Muguet Aldehyde ( Empetaal, Myraldene, Neroli Oil Rose Oil Myrac Aldehyde ) - Usa Neroli Petals Oil Neroli Phase Oil Ylang Ylang Oils I, II, III Neroline Bromelia Neroline Yara Yara Palmarosa Oil Aromatic Chemicals Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Rose Oil Aldehyde C - 11 Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate - Usa

Ylang Oils I, II, III, Complete Benzyl Acetate Rosalin Rose Oxide Concretes, Resinoides, Absolutes Citronellyl Acetate Citronellyl Formate - Usa Terpineol Bourgeons de Cassis Terpineol Alpha Laevo - Usa Dimethyl Anthranilate - Usa Genet Geranyl Acetate Jasmine Geranyl Formate - Usa Geranyl Nitrile Orange Flower Geranyl Tiglate - Usa Orris Hydroxy Citronellal - Usa Rose Iso Eugenol Tuberose Ivyal - Usa ( Maceal ) Organic Essential Oils Linalool Geranium Egyptian Oil Methyl Iso Eugenol Neroli Oil

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The Good Scents Company - USA

Perfumery Raw Materials Information

Cananga Oil Jasmin Pommade Absolute Geranium Concrete Cnanaga Oil Terpeneless Jonquil Absolute Mimosa France Concrete Geranium Oil Africa Lilac Absolute Geranium Oil Bourbon Lily Absolute Narcissus Concrete Geranium Oil China Lily of the Valley Absolute Geranium Oil Egypt Orange Flower Morocco Concrete Geranium Oil Moroccan Mimosa Absolute Orris Root Concrete Geranium Oil Terpeneless Osmanthus Concrete Geranium Rose Oil Orange Flower Morocco Absolute Orange Flower Water Absolute Rose Concrete Jasmin Oil Italy Osmanthus Absolute Rose Bulgaria Concrete

Neroli Bigarade Oil France Reseda Pomade Absolute Tuberose Concrete Rose Bulgaria Absolute Rose Oil Morocco Rose Morocco Absolute Violet Leaf Concrete Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria Rose Leaf Absolute Rose Oil Turkey Ylang Ylang Concrete Sweet Pea Absolute Ylang Ylang Oil Floral Notes Tuberose Pommade Absolute Absolute Listing Acetal 318 Violet Flower Absolute Acetate C - 8 Carnation Absolute Violet Leaf Absolute Acetophenone 1 - Acetyl Cyclo Hexyl Acetate Frangipanni Pink Absolute Ylang Ylang Absolute Acetyl Tetralin Alcohol C - 9 Gardenia Absolute Concrete Listing Alcohol C - 10 Genet Absolute Aldehyde C - 8 / Methyl Anthran. Geranium Absolute Cassia China Concrete Aldehyde C - 9 / Methyl Anthran. Aldehyde C - 10 / Methyl Anthran. Jasmin Absolute Chassis Gardenia Concrete Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylic Dima. Jasmin Concrete Absolute Genet Concrete Allyl Anthranilate

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Amyl Angelate Butyl Cinnamaldehyde - alpha Country Meadow Amyl Anthranilate Butyl Nonanoate Crabapple Blossom Amyl Benzoate Butyl Salicylate Cresyl Acetate Para Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Butyl Salicylate - Iso Cresyl Ethanol Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Dea. Cresyl Laurate Ether Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Dma. Calla Lily Cresyl Proionaldehyde Amyl Cinnamaldehyde Methyl A. Cananga Oil Cumin Carbinol Amyl Cinnamyl Acetate Cardamom Absolute Currant Bud Concrete Black Amyl Cyclopentanone Propanone Catnation Cyclamen Aldehyde Amyl Cyclopentenone Cassia Absolute Cyclamen Aldehyde Methyl Anth. Amyl Geranate Cassie Concrete Cyclamen Homoaldehyde Amyl Salicylate Cassis Buteneone Cyclamen propanal Amyl Undecylenate Cassis Methanol Cyclo Hexyl Ethyl Acetate Angel Essence Cassis Oxime Cyclo Hexyl Ethyl Alcohol Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal Champaca Absolute Cyclo Hexyl Propanol Anisaldehyde / Methyl Anthran. Champaca Concrete Cyclo Hexyl Salicylate Anisonitrile Cherry Blossom Anisyl Butyrate Cinnamyl Phenyl Acetate Damascenone - Beta Anisyl Propanal / Methyl Anthran. Citronella Oil Java Damascone - Delta Anisyl Propanal / Methyl Anthran. Citronellal Damascone - Gamma Apple Blossom Citronellol 3 - Decanol Autumn Carboxylate Citronellol - Laevo 2 - Decanone Azalea Citronellyl Acetate 9 - Decen - 1 - OL Citronellyl Acetate - Laevo (Z) - 4 - Decen - 1 - yyl Acetate Benzaldehyde Propylene Glycol A Citronellyl Acetone Decyl Anthranilate Benzyl Acetate Citronellyl Acetate - Laevo Decyl Formate Benzyl Acetoacetate Citronellyl Anthranilate Dewy Propionate Benzyl Acetone Citronellyl Benzoate Di Hydro Carvyl Acetate Benzyl Alcohol Citronellyl Butyrate Di Hydro Citronellyl Ethyl Ether Benzyl Iso Butyrate Citronellyl Cinnamate Di Hydro Geranyl Linalool Benzyl Formate Citronellyl Ethoxalate Di Hydro - Alpha - Ionone Benzyl Lactate Citronellyl Ethyl Ether Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Citronellyl Formate Di Hydro Jasmone Bigarade Oxide Citronellyl Hexanoate Di Hydro Jasmone Lactone Bisabolol Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Di Hydro Linalool Blue Lagoon Citronellyl Propionate Di Hydrose Oxide Bois De Rose Citronellyl Tiglate Di Methyl Anthranilate Bois De Rose Oil Brazil Citronellyl Valerate Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol Bois De Rose Oil Terpeneless Citronellyl Iso Valerate Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl A. Boronia Absolute Citrus Propanol Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl B. Boronia Butenal Clary Sage Absolute Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl P. Bouquet Clean Cotton Di Methyl Alpha - Ionone Butyl Benzyl Ether Coriander Seed Oil Di Methyl Ocanol

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Di Methyl Phenethyl Carbinol Geranium Di Hydro Pyran Honeysuckle Absolute Di Methyl Phenethyl Carbinyl A. Geranium Nitrile Hyacinth Di Methyl Phenethyl Carbinyl I B. Geranium Oil Africa Hyacinth Acetal Geranium Oil Bourbon Hyacinth Ether Earthy Indane Geranium Oil China Hydrangea Ethyl Acetophenone - Para Geranium Oil Egypt Hydroxycitronellal Ethyl Ortho Anisate Geranium Oil Moroccan Hydroxycitronellal Di Ethyl Acetal Ethyl Anthranilate Geranium Oil Terpeneless Hydroxycitronellal Di Methyl A. Ethyl 2 - Benzyl Butyrate Geranyl Acetone Hydroxycitronellal / Methyl Anth. Ethyl Ethyl Anthranilate Geranyl Anthranilate Hydroxycitronellol Ethyl Hydro Cinnamate Geranyl Iso Butyrate Ethyl Linalool Geranyl Ethyl Ether Ionol - Alpha Ethyl Linalyl Acetal Geranyl Formate Ionol - Beta Ethyl Linalyl Acetate Geranyl Hexanoate Ionone - Alpha Ethyl Oleate Geranyl Linalool Ionone - Beta Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Geranyl Methyl Ether Ionyl Acetate - Alpha Ethyl Safranate Geranyl Nonanoate Ionyl Acetate - Beta Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Irone - Alpha Farnesal Geranyl Propionate Farnesol (E,E), (E,Z) Geranyl Tiglate Jasimia Farnesyl Acetate Geranyl Valerate Jasmin Floral Butanal Greenhouse Jasmin Absolute Chassis Floral Methanol Jasmin Absolute Concrete Egypt Floral Pyran Hawthorn Acetate Jasmin Absolute Pommade Floral Pyranol Hawthorn Base 1 Jasmin Acetate Floral Undecenone Heather Jasmin Aceto Acetate Frangipany Absolute Pink Heliotrope Jasmin Concrete Italy Freesia Heliotrope Absolute Jasmin Concrete Morocco Freesia Acetate Heliotropin Jasmin Cyclopentanol Fruity Cyclopentanone Heliotropyl Acetate Jasmin Cyclopentanone Heliotropyl Acetone Jasmin Lactone Gardenia Heliotropyl Di Ethyl Acetal Jasmin Oil Italy Gardenia Absolute Heptyl Propionate Jasmin Pyranol Gardenia Acetal Herbal Pyran Jasmin Pyranone Gardenia Amide Hexa Hydro Farnesyl Acetone Jasmone - (Z) Gardenia Concrete Hexen - 1 - yl Salicylate Jasmone Iso Gardenia Decalone Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde - alpha Jasmone Para Gardenia Oxide Hexyl Lactate Jonquil Absolute Gardenia Penytyl Acetate Hexyl Nonanoate Gardenia - 1110 Hibiscus Karo Karounde Absolute Genet Concrete Ho Leaf Oil Kewda Absolute Geraniol Ho Wood Oil Geranium Cyclo Hexane Honeysuckle Lavandin Concrete Decolorized

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Lavandin Oil Abrialis Methyl Ionyl Acetate Orange Blossom Lavender Absolute Bulgaria Methyl Jasmonate Orange Leaf Absolute Lavender Absolute France Methyl Epi Jsmonate Orange Flower Absolute Morocco Lavender Oil Methyl Naphthyl Ketone Orange Flower Water Absolute Leerall Methyl Octanal Orange Flower - 1150 Leerall / Methyl Anthranilate Mimosa Absolute Orchid Lilac Mimosa Concrete France Orris Lilac Absolute Mimosa Heptanal Orris Butenone Lilac Aldehyde Muguet Butanal Orris Pyridine 25 % IPM Lilac Lactone Muguet Butanol Orris Root Absolute Lily Muguet Carbaldehyde Orris Root Concrete Lily Absolute Muguet Carboxaldehyde Orris Root Resinoid Lily of the Valley Muguet Ethanol Lily of the Valley Absolute Muguet Nitrile Palmarosa Oil Lily Propanol Muguet Octadienol Peach Nitirle Lilyall Muguet Propanol Pentadecanone - 2 Lilyall / Methyl Anthranilate Muguet Shiseol Penten - 1 - yl Cyclopentanone Linaloe Wood Oil Mexico Musk Acetate Peony Linalool Myrcenol Peony Pink Linalool Oxide Peonyl Acetonitrile Linalyl Anthranilate Naphthyl Anthranilate - Beta Peonyl Alcohol Linalyl Benzoate Naphthyl Methyl Ketone - Beta Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Linalyl Butyrate Narcissus Petitgrain Cedrat Oil Linalyl Phenyl Acetate Nerol Petitgrain Lemon Oil Linalyl Propionate Neroli Petitgrain Mandarin Oil Linden Blossom Neroli # 1 Petitgrain Oil Lotus Neroli Bigarade Oil France Petitgrain Oil Terpeneles Paraguay Nerolidol Phenethyl Acetate Magnolia Nerolidyl Acetate Phenethyl Alcohol Magnolia Cyclo Hexanol Nerolin Fragarol Phenethyl Anthranilate Magnolia Decadienal Neryl Acetate Phenethyl Benzoate Magnolia Indene Neryl Formate Phenethyl Butyl Ether Menthadienyl Formate Neryl Iso Valerate Phenethyl Butyrate Methoxy Citronellal 3 - Nonanone Phenethyl Iso Butyrate Methoxy Melonal 3 - Nonanon - 1 - yl Acetate Phenethyl Formate Methyl Acetophenone Nonisyl Propionate Phenethyl Heptanoate Methyl Benzyl Acetate Nonyl Heptanoate Phenethyl Hexanoate Methyl Citronellate Nonyl Octanoate Phenethyl Methyl Ethyl Carbinol Methyl Gamma DeDecalactone Phenethyl Pivalate Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate Ocean Propanal / Methyl Anth. Phenethyl Propionate Methyl Ionone - 6 Ocimene - Beta Phenethyl Salicylate Methyl Ionone - Alpha - Iso Ocimene - Beta - (Z) Phenethyl Salicylate Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme Octyl Iso Valerate Phenethyl Iso Valerate

203 Glen O. Brechbill

Phenoxyethanol Styralyl Formate Phenyl Acetaldehyde / Methyl An. Styralyl Propionate Phenyl Amyl Alcohol Surfleurs D’ Oranger Oil Phenyl Ethylidene Acetone Sweet Pea Phenyl Glycol Diacetate Sweet Pea Absolute Phytol Iso Plum Damascon Tea Acetate Plumeria Tea Rose Prenyl Salicylate Terpineol - Alpha Propiophenone Terpineol - Gamma Propyl Salicylate Terpinyl Anthranilate - Alpha Terpinyl Iso Butyrate Rian Fresh Terpinyl Formate Red Rose Terpinyl Valerate Red Rose - 1104 Tetrahydro Ionol Reseda Acetal Tetrahydro Ionyl Acetate Rhodino Tetra Hydro Linalool Rhodinyl Acetate Tetra Hydro Linalyl Acetate Rhodinyl Butyrate Tobacco Flower Absolute Rhodinyl Iso Butyrate Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Rhodinyl Formate Tuberolide Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Tuberose Rhodinyl Propionate Tuberose Absolute Concrete Rhodinyl Iso Valerate Tuberose Absolute Pommade Rose Absolute Bulgaria Tuberose Acetate Rose Absolute Morocco Tuberose Concrete Rose Absolute Pentanol Rose Acetate 2 - Undecen - 1 - ol Rose Blossom Pentanol Rose Butanoate Vetiver Pentanone Rose Carbonate Violet Rose Carboxylate Violet Flower Absolute Rose Concrete Violet Methyl Carbonate Rose Concrete Bulgaria Rose Oil Turkey Wallflower Absolute Rose Oxide - Laevo White Ginger Rose Petal Acetate White Rose Rose Pyran Rose Undecene Ylang Ylang Absolute Ylang Ylang Concrete Satin Aldehyde Ylang Ylang Oil Spring Rain Styralyl Iso Butyrate

204 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Gorlin & Company - USA

Essential Oils

Cananga Java

Geranium, Bourbon Geranium - China

Neroli, France Neroli, Tunisia

Palmarosa

Rose - Bulgaria Rose - Turkey

Natural Isolates

Linalool

Terpineo

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Graham Chemical Corporation - USA

Aroma Chemicals & Essential Oils

Cananga Oil Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Formate Geranium Oil Geranyl Propionate

Jasmin Oil Iso Amyl Salicylate natural Iso Eugenol Acetate Neroli Oil Iso Jasmone natural

Palmarosa Oil Leaf Alcohol ( Cis 3 Hexenol ) Lily Aldehyde Rose Oil Linalool Linallol (l) ( natural ) Ylang Ylang Oil Methyl Iso Eugenol Aroma Chemicals Nerolin Bromelia Acetophenone Aldehyde C - 8 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Amyl Salicylate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Anisic Aldehyde, natural Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate Anisyl Acetate Anisyl Alcohol Rose Crystals (Trichloro Methyl Phenyl Carbinyl Acetate) Benzophenone Rose Oxide Benzyl Acetate, natural Benzyl Iso Butyrate Styrallyl Propionate Benzyl Salicylate Yara Yara Citronellol ( Beta Naphtyl Methyl Ether ) Citronellyl Acetate Citronellyl Formate

Geraniol

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Gyran Flavours - India

Products

Aromatic Chemicals

Citronellol natural

Geraniol Geranyl Acetate

Leaf Alcohol Linalool Oxide Linalool ( Perfumery Grade )

3 - Octenol natural

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HC Biochem - China

Essential Oils & Concretes

Gardenia Oil Wild Chrysanthemum Geranium Oil Wild Rose

Magnolia Oil Tinctures

Neroli Oil Iris

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Absolutes

Cassia Abs. Crimson Glory Rose Abs.

Jasmine Abs.

Wild Chrysanthemum Abs. Wild Rose Abs.

Concretes

Crimson Glory Rose

Honeysuckle Flower

Iris

Jasmine

Osmanthus

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H. Reynaud & Fils - France

Essential Oils

Absolue Rose Maroc Hydrolats Absolute Rose Morocco Oil Hydrolats Rose Maroc Absolue Genet Rose Morocco Abs. Rose Genet Rose Turque Rose Rose Turkish Oil Mimosa Mimosa Ylang Ylang Extra Comores Ylang Extra Oil Nom du produit Ylang Ylang I Comores Product Name Ylang I Oil Ylang Ylang II Comores Cananga Indonesie Ylang II Oil Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang III Comores Ylang III Oil Geranium Chine Geranium Chinese Oil Water Soluble Oils: Geranium Egypte Geranium Egyptian Oil Geranium Egypte Geranium Egyptian Oil Jasmin Absolue Egypte Jasmin Absolute Palmarosa Palmarosa Oil Neroli Veritable Maroc Neroli Oil Ylang Ylang Extra Comores Ylang Extra Oil Palmarosa Ylang Ylang III Comores Palmarosa Oil Ylang III Oil

Rose Bulgare Rose Bulgarian Oil Rose Bulgare Abs. Rose Bulgarian Abs.

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Haldin - Indonesia

Essential Oils & Extracts

Natural Molecules

Terpinenol-4

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Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd., - U.K.

Fine Essential Oils

Cananga Oil Iris Moss Geranyl Iso Butyrate Geranyl Propionate Geranium Oil Lily Root Linden Hydroxycitronelol Jasmine Oil Jasmine Concrete Rose Mallow Linalool 98 % Rose Petal Linalool Methyl Benzoate Violet Neroli Oil Nerol 99 % Ylang Ylang Nerolidol 99 % Palmarosa Oil Nerolin Bromelia Aromatic Chemicals Rose Oil ( Otto ) Para Cresyl Acetate Alcohol C - 8 Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate Ylang Ylang Alcohol C - 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Amyl Salicylate Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate Concentrated Botanical Herbal Anis Aldehyde natural Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate Extracts Phenyl Ethyl Formate Benzophenone Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Acacia Benzyl Acetate Apple Blossom Rose Crystals Citronellol 99 % Cananga Citronellyl Acetate 99 % Styrallyl Acetate Citronellyl Butyrate Everlasting Citronellyl Formate Yara Yara Citronellyl Formate 99 % Freesia Geraniol 99 % Geranium Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Geranyl Acetate Honeysuckle Geranyl Butyrate Geranyl Formate

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Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Company - China

Products

Floramelon

Linalool Oxide

Natural Linalool

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Hemani Ex-Imp Corporation - India

Natural Essential Oils Aromatic Chemicals

Aromatic Perfumery Chemicals

Alpha Ionone Anisic Aldehyde

Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Salicylate Beta Ionone

Di Hydro Beta Ionone

Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Acetone

Ionone 100 %

Leafalon

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

Rose Crystals Rose Oxide

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Hindustan Mint & Agro Products Pvt. Ltd. - India

Products

Geranium Oil

Jamrosa Oil

Palmrosa Oil

Rose Oil

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IPRA Fragrances - France

Produits

BOOK # 2 ( I - Z ) Cananga Indonesie Tubereuse Indes Acetate De Gayol Acetate De Geranyle Geranium Bourbon Violette Acetate D’ Iso Eugenyle/ Geranium Chine Acetyl Iso Eugenol Geranium Egypte Ylang Ylang Aldehyde Anisque

Neroli Bigarade Maroc Concretes Citronellol Ex - Citriodora Neroli Bigarade Tunisie Genet Italie Formiate De Citronnellyle Rose Bulgare Formiate De Geranyle Rose Maroc Jasmin Egypte Rose Turquie Jasmin Indes Geraniol 100 % Jasmin Indes Sambac Geraniol Extra Ex - Citronnelle Ylang Ylang Extra Comores Ylang Ylang Premiere Comores Mimosa Pays Hydroxycitronellal Ex - Citriodora Ylang Ylang Deuxieme Comores Hydroxycitronellal Ex - Ylang Ylang Troisieme Comores Oranger Maroc Citronnelle Oranger Tunisie Absolues Osmanthus Chine Linalol Ex - Shiu

Genet Italie Rose De Mai Pays Methyl Ionone Gamma Rose Maroc Methyl Ionone Totale Jasmin Egypte Rose Turquie Methyl Iso Eugenol Jasmin Indes Tubereuse Indes Nerol Extra Mimosa Pays Nerolidol ( Ex - Cabreuva ) Ylang Ylang Narcisse Propionate De Geranyle Produits Organiques et de Oranger Synthese Rhodinol Ex - Citronnelle Rhodinol Ex - Geranium Rose Maroc Acetate D’ Eugenyle/Acetyl Rose Turquie Eugenol

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Indesso - Indonesia

Essential Oils, Natural Extracts & Aromatic Chemicals

Benzyl Iso Eugenol 903

Iso Eugenol HT 914 Iso Eugenol S 915 Iso Eugenyl Acetate 908

Methyl Eugenol 921 Methyl Eugenol A 931 Methyl Iso Eugenol 922

216 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Innospec Inc. - USA

Aroma List

Herbaceous

Bigarade Oxide

Iso Freshal Nitrile

Iso Tagetone 50 Isobornyl Isobutyrate

Ocimene PQ

Thymoxane

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Innospec Inc. - USA

Aroma List

Lilivert

Melfloral Methoxymelonal

Floral

Citronellol 850

Hydroxycitronellal A Hydroxycitornellal Pure 55

Laevo-Citronellol

Lilestralis Lilestralis 22 Lilivert

Melfloral Methoxymelonal Methoxymelonal PQ

Rosone

Aldehyde

Isofreshal

Levenalis

218 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Interchim - France

Fragrances & Flavors

Anisyl Alcohol Neryl Butyrate Anisyl Propionate Neryl Iso Butyrate

Benzyl Anthranilate 3 - Octyl Acetate

Citronellol 2 - Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Citronelloxy Acetaldehyde Citronellyl Acetate Citronellyl Butyrate Citronellyl Formate Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Citornellyl Tiglate Citronellyl Valerate p-Cresyl Acetate p-Cresyl Iso Butyrate

Farnesol Farnesyl Acetate

Geranyl Acetate Gernayl Butyrate Geranyl Formate Geranyl Iso Butyrate Geranyl Iso Valerate Geranyl Nitrile Geranyl Propionate

Cis-Jasmone Cis-Jasmonlactone

Nerolidol Neryl Acetate

219 Glen O. Brechbill

International Flavors & Fragrances - USA

Fragrance Ingredients

Acalea TT Geraniol 7030 Melafleur Alpha Terpineol Geraniol 980 Pure Methyl Anthranilate Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Geraniol Coeur Methyl Ionone Gamma A Amyl Salicylate Geranyl Acetate A Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur Geranyl Acetate Extra Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure Benzyl Propionate Geranyl Acetate Pure Benzyl Salicylate Muguesia Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Muguet Aldehyde 50 Cassiffix Hexyl Salicylate Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB Citronellol 700 98TA Hyacinth Body Citronellol 750 Hyacinth Body No. 3 Nerol 800 Citronellol 950 Hydratropic Aldehyde Dimethyl Nerol 850 Citronellol Coeur Acetal Nerol 900 Citronellyl Acetate Hydroxyol Neryl Acetate JAX Citronellyl Formate Interleven Aldehyde Orange Flower Ether Damascol 4 Interleven Aldehyde Special Orivone Delta Damascone Ionone 100 % Oriniff 25 % IPM Dihydro Floralate Ionone Alpha Ozofleur Dihydro Floralol Ionone Alpha Beta Regular Dihydro Terpineol Ionone Beta Peomosa Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol Phenafleur Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Acetate Jssmal Phenoxanol Dimethyl Octanol Jasmelia Phenoxyethyl Isobutyrate Jessemal Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Fleuramone Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Floralate Kharismal Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Floralol Phenyl Ethyl Formate Floralozone Lyral Phenyl Ethyl Isobutyrate Lyrame Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Gelsone Lyrame Super Geraldehyde Reseda Body Geraniol 5020 Meijiff Rosalva

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Rosamusk Roseate

Strallyl Propionate Syvertal

Terpineol 900 Terpineol Extra Tetrahydro Muguol Tetrahydro Muguol Coeur

Vernol Violiff

221 Glen O. Brechbill

JC Buck Ltd. - U.K.

Products

Cananga Jasmin Egyptian Jasmin Indian Geranium Chinese Geranium Egyptian Mimosa Indian Geranium Egyptian Type Narcisse Plaines French Neroli Egypt Narcisse Montagne French Neroli Maroc Neroli Tunisian Oranger Egyptian

Palmarosa Indian Rose Bulgarian Rose Egyptian Rose Bulgarian Rose Maroc Rose Commercial Rose Egypt Tuberose Indian Rose Moroccan Rose Turkish Violette Feuilles Egyptian

Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang French Ylang # 1 Ylang # 2 Ylang # 3

By Products

Hydroxy Fractions

Absolutes

Genet Italy

Iris Conc. 8 % French

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J & E Sozio, Inc. - USA

Esential Oils

Geranium Oil Bourbon

Rose Absolute Maroc

Ylang Ylang Extra

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J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda. - Brazil

Esential Oils

Rosa

Ylang Ylang

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Joint American Ventures in China - USA

Aroma Chemicals

Alpha Ionone

Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Salicylate Beta Ionone

Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinol

Gamma Methyl Ionone

Hydroxycitronellal

Ionone 100%

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Styrallyl Acetate Styrallyl Propionate

Terpineol

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Kanta House - India

Natural Essential Oils

Palmarosa Oil

Isolates & Aromatic Chemicals

Geranoil Ex Citronella Oil Geranoil Ex Jamarosa Oil Geranoil Ex Palmarosa Oil

Iso-Eugenol

Leaf Alcohol Natural Linalool Ex Basil

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Kao Corporation - Japan

Aroma Chemicals

Aldehyde C - 9 Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Hyacinth PP

Irotyl

Jasmacylat

Magnol MDJ Methyl Ionone Gamma

Phenyl Hexanol

227 Glen O. Brechbill

Kato Aromatic S.A.E. - Egypt

Essential Oils

Concretes Geranium Benzol Pelargonium Graveolens Bitter Orange Flower Geranium Hexane Citrus Aurantium L. Pelargonium Graveolens

Carnation Flower Jasmin Benzol Dianthus Caryophyllus Jasminum Grandiflorum Jasmine Hexane Geranium Benzol Jasminum Grandiflorum Pelargonium Graveolens Geranium Hexane Tuberose Pelargonium Graveolens Polyanthus Tuberosa

Jasmine Benzol Violet Leaves Jasminum Grandiflorum Viola Odorata L. Jasmine Hexane Jasminum Grandiflorum Others

Tuberose Rhodinol Ex. Geranium Oil Polyanthus Tuberosa L. Pelargonium Graveolens

Violet Leaves Viola Odorata

Absolutes

Bitter Orange Flower Citrus Aurantium L.

Carnation Flower Dianthus Caryophyllus

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Kruetz Helmut - Portugal

Produto

Angelica Root Oil Rosemary Oil BPC73 Rosemary Oil - Spain Basil Oil Comores Rosemary Oil - Tunisia Basil Oil - Egypt ( Linalol ) Bay Oil Sage Oil Officinalis Savory Chamomile Blue Oil Spearmint Chamomile English Oil Spike Lavender Oil BPC 1968 Coriander Oil - Russia Spike Lavender Oil Spanish Coumarin Substitute Tarragon Dill Oil Thyme Oil Red Thyme Oil White Lavandin Oil Abrialis Lavandin Perfume White Thyme Lavender Oil Lavender Oil 40/42 Lavender Oil Bulgaria Lavender Oil France 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Cochin Lemongrass Oil - Guatemala

Marjarom Oil - Egypt Marjarom Oil - Spain Mint Arvensis Myrtle Oil

Origanum Oil - Spain

Peppermint Oil

Red Thyme Rose Oil - Turkey

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Krupa Scientific - India

Flavours & Fragrances

Herbaceous

Amyl Salicylate

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Laboratoire Monique Remy - France

Specialty Materials - The Major Catalog’s of Fragrance

Broom Absolute Italy Neroli Oil Morocco Genet Italie Absolue Neroli Essence Maroc Neroli Oil Tunisia Geranium Oil Egypt Neroli Tunise Essence Geranium Essence Egypte Geranium Absolute Egypt Orris Absolute Geranium Egypte Absolue Iris Absolue Geranium Absolute Egypt MD Orris Natural 8 % 2942 C Geranium Egypte Absolue DM Iris Naturelle 8 % 2942 C Orris Natural 15 % 4095 C Jasmine Morocco Absolute Iris Naturelle 15 % 4095 C Jasmin Absolue Maroc Orris Resinoid Jasmine Absolute Egypt Iris Resinoide Jasmin Egypte Absolue Orris Morocco Natural 15 % 4117 C Jasmine Absolute India Iris Naturelle Maroc 15 % 4117 C Jasmin Inde Absolue Osmantus Absolute Jasmine Absolute Sambac Osmanthus Absolue Jasmin Sambac Absolue Osmanthus MD 50 % BB Jonquil Absolute France Osmanthus Absolue DM 50 % BB Jonquille Auvergne Absolue Jonquil Absolue MD 20 % B.B. Rhodinol Ex Geranium China Jonquille Absolue DM 20 % BB Rhodinol Ex Geranium Chine Rose Absolute Bulgaria Magnolia Flower Oil Rose Bulgare Absolue Magnolia Fleurs Essence Rose Absolute Bulgaria Low MD Magnolia Leaf Oil Rose Bulgare Absolue Faible % M.E. Magnolia Feuilles Essence Rose Absolue Celle C’Less Rose Celle Absolue Decoloree Narcisse Absolute France Rose Absolute France Narcisse Auvergne Absolue Rose De Mai Absolue Narcisse Absolute MD 20 % BB Rose Absolute Morocco Narcisse Absolue DM 20 % BB Rose Maroc Absolue

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Rose Absolute Turkey Low MD Rose Turque Absolue Faible % M.E. Rose Absolute MD Rose Absolue DM Rose Oil Celle Rose Essence Celle Rose Oil Bulgaria Rose Bulgare Essence Rose Oil Turkey Rose Turque Essence

Tuberose Absolute India Tubereuse Inde Absolue

Violet Leaf Absolute Egypt Violette Feuilles Egypte Absolue Violet Leaf Absolute France Violette Feuilles Pays Absolue Violet Leaf Absolute MD 50 % BB Violette Feuilles Absolue DM 50 % BB

Ylang Extra Oil Ylang Extra Essence

232 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Lionel Hitchen Ltd. - U.K.

Essential Oils

Geranium Bourbon

Concentrated Essential Oils

Geranium Terpeneless

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Lluche Essence - Spain

Essential Oils & Aromatiac Chemicals

Cananga Java Oil Rose Turkey Abs. Di Hydro Alpha Ionone Di Hydro Beta Ionone Geranium Bourbon Oil Natural Isolates Di Hydro Eugenol Geranium China Oil Di Hydro Jasmone Geranium Egypt Oil Rhodinol Ex - Geranium Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol

Neroli Bigarade Tunisie Oil Synthetic Aroma Chemicals Efetaal Elintaal Palmarosa Oil Acetophenone Alcohol C - 08 Farnesol Rose Bulgaria Oil Alcohol C - 09 Farnesyl Acetate Rose China Oil Alcohol C - 10 Floralozone Rose Iran Double Distilled Oil Alcohol C - 11 Undecylenic Floramat Rose Iran Single Distilled Oil Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylic Florane Rose Turkey Oil Allyl Ionone Florosa Alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Ylang Extra Oil Amyl Salicylate Geraniol 60 % Ylang 1 Oil Aquamor Geraniol 98 % Ylang II Oil Aurantiol Geranyl Acetate Ylang III Oil Geranyl Benzoate Benzyl Acetate Geranyl Butyrate Absolutes Benzyl Salicylate Geranyl Formate Bourgeonal Geranyl Iso Butyrate Boronia Abs. Geranyl Iso Valerate Cinnamyl Acetate Jasmine Abs. Citronellol Hexyl Salicylate Citronellol - L Hydratropic Alcohol Mimosa Abs. Citronellol 96 % Hydratropic Aldehyde Citronellyl Acetate Hydratropic Aldehyde DMA Orange Flower Abs. Citronellyl Butyrate Hydroxycitronellal Citronellyl Formate Hydroxycitronellal DMA Rose Bulgaria Abs. Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Hydroxycitronellol Rose Morocco Abs. Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate

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Ionone Phenyl Ethyl Heptanoate Irone Alfa Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrte Iso Amyl Salicylate Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate Iso Damascone Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ethyl Iso Eugenol Carbinol Iso Jasmone Pure Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Ivyal Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Jasmatone Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Jasmine Lactone Jasmone - CIS Rhodinol Extra Jasmopyrane Rose Crystals Jasmopyrane Forte Rose Oxide 70/30 Jeseate Rose Oxide 90/10 Rosirane Super Ligustral Lilestralis 33 Schiff Base - Hydroxycitronellal Lilial 50 %/Indole Linalol Coeur Silvanone Supra Linalol Pure FCC Styrallil Acetate Linalol Synthetic Styrallyl Alcohol Liral Styrallyl Propionate Syringa Aldehyde Methyl Ionone Methyl Ionone - Alfa Terpineol 91 % Alfa Methyl Ionone Gamma Terpineol Grade A Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur Terpineol Grade B Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa Methyl Ionone Soap Yara Yara Methyl Iso Eugenol Methyl Nonyl Ketone Muguet Alcohol Myraldyle Acetate

Peonile Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Caprylate Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate Phenyl Ethyl Crotonate Phenyl Ethyl Formate

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Lothar Streek - Germany

Ingredients by Givaudan

Adoxal Neofolione Aldehyde C 11 Undecylenic Nerolidol Synthetic Anisyl Alcohol Nerone Aurantiol Pure Nonadienal

Boisiris Oranger Crystals

Citronellyl Formate Peonile Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Dimethyl Anthranilate Stemone Ethyl Linalool Syringa Aldehyde

Geranitrile T Undecavertol Geranyl Acetone

Ionone Beta Irisone Alpha Irisone Pure Irone Alpha Iso Jasmone B 11 Isoraldeine 70 Isoraldeine 95

Jasmone Cis Jasmonyl LG

Lilial Linalool Oxide Linalool Synthetic

Methyl Octyne Carbonate The Floral Notes of Fragrance

M.X.D. Enterprise System - Korea

Perfume List

Geranium Bourbon Oil Extra Ylang Ylang Abs. Extra Geranium Oil Extra

Neroli Bigarade Petale Oil Extra

Rose Turkish Oil Extra

Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Ylang Oil I Ylang Ylang Oil III

Absolutes

Blackcurrant Bud Abs. Blackcurrant Bud Abs. Extra Broom Abs. Extra

Jasmine Egyptian Abs. Extra

Mimosa French Abs. Extra Mimosa India Abs. Extra Mimosa Morocco Abs. Extra

Orange Flower Water Abs. Extra Orris Abs. Extra Osmanthus Abs. Extra

Rose Morocco Abs. Extra

Violet Leaf Abs. Violet Leaf Abs. Extra Violet Leaf Abs. MD Violet Leaf Egyptian Abs. Extra

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Mane SA - France

Raw Materials Catalog

Rose Turkish Oil - Turkey Molecular Distillations Violet Leaf Absoflor

Natural Absolutes Jasmin Abs. MD Wild Orchid Absoflor

Jasmin Egypt Abs. - Egypt Mimosa Abs. MD Natural Molecules

Mimosa Abs. French - France Rose Abs. MD Benzyl Acetate

Narcissus Abs. - France Sambac Abs. Indian MD Farnesol

Orris Abs. - Morocco Absoflors Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Orris Butter - Morocco Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol - Via Black Currant Bud Absoflor Fermentation Rose Pays Abs. - France Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol - Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey Jonquil Absoflor Ex Rose Oil Rose Turkish Abs. MD - Turkey Magnolia Flower Absoflor Terpineol ( Alpha ) Violet Leaf Abs. - France Mimosa Absoflor

Natural Concrete Narcissus Absoflor

Jasmin Egypt Concrete - Egypt Orange Flower Absoflor Orris Absoflor Mimosa Concrete - France Osmanthus Absoflor

Narcissus Concrete - France Pittosporum Absoflor

Rose Pays Concrete - France Rose Absoflor Rose Turkish Concrete - Turkey Syringa Flower Absoflor Violet Leaf Concrete - France Tuberose Absoflor

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MelChem Distribution - USA

Natural Aroma Chemicals

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Nat. Anisyl Acetate Nat. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Nat. Anisyl Alcohol Nat. Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate Nat. Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Nat. Benzyl Acetate Nat. Terpineol Alpha Nat. Cinnamyl Acetate Nat. Citronellol Nat. Citronellyl Acetate Nat. Citronellyl Butyrate Nat. Citronellyl Propionate Nat.

Dimethyl Anthranillate Nat.

Farnesol Nat.

Geraniol Nat. Geranyl Acetate Nat. Geranyl Butyrate Nat. Geranyl Propionate Nat.

Heliotropine Nat.

Ionone Alpha Nat. Ionone Beta Nat. Ionone Mixture Nat.

Linalool Oxide Nat. Linalool Nat.

Nerol Nat. Neryl Acetate Nat.

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Millennium Chemicals - USA

Fragrances Bases & Aromatic Chemicals

Tropical Jasmine

Aromatic Chemicals

Alpha Terpinene P & F FCC Alpha Terpineol P & F FCC

Citronellol 96 FCC Citronellol AJ, FCC Citronellol Prime Citronellyl Acetate Extra

Di Hydro Linalool

Geraniol 80 Geraniol BJ, FCC

Geraniol Fine FCC Geraniol Prime Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC Geranyl Acetate Extra FCC

Hydroxy Residue Hydroxycitronellal Pure FCC

Linalool Coeur Linalool Pure FCC

Terpineol 350 Terpineol Supra ( Alpha )

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Moelhausen S.p.A. - Italy

Fine Essential Oils

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil Geranium Oil Africa Geranium Oil Bourbon Barbot Geranium Oil China Geranium Oil Egypt

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil Turkey

Ylang Ylang Oil Ylang Ylang Oil II

Concretes

Rose Concrete

Absolutes

Mimosa Abs.

Osmanthus Abs.

Rose Turkey Abs.

Violet Leaf Abs.

241

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Moraflor Produits Aromatiques - France

Specialties & Essential Oils

FLORAL NOTES Specialties or Reconstitute Oils

Full Geranium Oil MF Geranium Oil STD Jasmine Geranium Rose Oil MF

Lilac Jasmine Oil MF

Rose Lilac Oil MF

Violet Rose Oil MF

Essential Oils Violet Oil MF

Cananga - Java Ylang Oil Std Ylang III Oil MF Geranium Bourbon - Reunion Geranium - China Geranium - Egypt

Neroli - Egypt

Palmarosa - Guatemala

Rose - Egypt

Ylang Extra - Madagascar Ylang I - Madagascar Ylang II - Madagascar Ylang III - Madagascar

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Muller & Koster - France

Essential Oils

Geranio Africa Pelargonium Capitatum Geranio Bourbon Pelargonium Capitatum Geranio Tipo Bourbon Pelargonium Capitatum Geranio China Pelargonium Capitatum

Iris Resinoide Iris Florentina

Palmarosa Cymbopogon Martini

Rosa Bulgara Essenza Rosa Gallica Rosa Marocco Assoluta Rosa Centifolia Rosa Turca Assoluta Rosa Gallica

Violetta Assoluta Viola Odorata

Ylang Ylang Cananga Odorata

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Naradev - Hong Kong

Essential Oils

Cananga

Geranium Bourbon Type Geranium Chinese Geranium Egyptian Geranium Moroccan Geranium over Roses

Neroli Bigarade Extra Neroli Bigarade Moroccan Neroli Bigarade Selecta Neroli Bigarade Spanish Neroli Bigarade Tunisian

Palmarosa

Rose Bulgarian Distilled Extra Rose Moroccan Extra Rose Turkish Rose Turkish Extra

Ylang Core Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang I Ylang Ylang II Ylang Ylang III Ylang Ylang Super Extra

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Narain Terpene & Allied Chemical - India

Aromatic Chemicals

Geranyl Acetone

Para Cresyl Acetate Para Cresyl Methyl Ether Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether

Aroma Chemicals

Linalool

245 Glen O. Brechbill

Nardev - Israel

Essential Oils

Polarome’s Complete Essential Oil List

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil - Bourbon Geranium Oil - China Geranium Oil - Egypt Geranium Oil - Morocco

Palmarosa Oil - Guatemala Palmarosa Oil - India

Rose Oil - Bulgaria Rose Oil - Morocco Rose Oil - Turkey

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Natural Sourcing, LLC - USA

Essential Oils

Cananga, Indonesia

Geranium, China Geranium Rosat, Egypt Geranium Rose, Zimbabwe

Neroli, Spain

Palmarosa, India

Rose Otto, Bulgaria

Ylang Ylang Extra, Spain

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O’Laughlin Industries - Hong Kong

Herbal Extracts, Mints & Essential Oils

Fragrance & Flavor Ingredients

Alpha Terpineol

Benzyl Acetate

Cinnamyl Acetate

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Oliganic - USA

Essential Oil Crop Calendar

Cananga - Indonesia

Geranium - China Geranium - Egypt Geranium - Morocco Geranium - Reunion

Palmarosa - Brazil Palmarosa - India

Rose - Bulgaria Rose - Morocco Rose - Turkey

Ylang Ylang - Comores Ylang Ylang - Madagascar

249

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Oregano - Turkey

Essential Oils

Rose Rosa Damascena - Turkey

250

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Organica Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. - India

Fine Chemicals by Family

Benzyl Iso Eugenol

Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Tiglate

Floral

Alpha Damascone

Beta Damascone

Damascenonel

Iso Damascone

Rose Oxide

251

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PCAS - France

Specialty Chemicals Odor Classification

White Flowers Geranyl Tiglate Glycoacetal 236 Anisyl Formate Methyl Phenyl Acetate Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Cinnamonitrile Cyclomugual Orris Violet

Iso Hexenyl Tetrahydro Irisone Crystals Benzaldehyde Para Tertio Butyl Cyclohexanone Linalyl Propionate Jasmine Floral Muguet Aldehyde Benzyl Iso Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Piperonyl Acetate Hexyl Iso Butyrate

Terpineol Crystals Alpha Tetrahydrofleurol

Rosy Floral

Citronellyl Formate

Ethyl Geranate Ethyl Phenylacetate

Geranic Acid Geranyl Butyrate Geranyl Formate

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PFW Aroma Chemicals - The Netherlands

Fine Chemicals

Cyclomyral

Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate

Floralyn

Iso Jasmone

Orinox

Ribes Mercaptan

Rose Nitrile

Verotyl

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P.P. Sheth & Co. - India

Essential Oils

Cananga Oil

Rhodinol Rose Oil Bulgaria

Ylang Ylang Oil I Ylang Ylang Oil Extra

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Paul Kaders GmbH - Germany

Fine Aroma Products

Boronia Absolue Nerolin Yara Yara ( Beta Naphtol Methylether ) Cananga Oil PEA ( Phenylethyl Alcohol ) Geranium Oil Rosalin ( Trichloromethyl Jasmin Concrete / Absolute phenylcarbinylacetate )

Neroli Oil Bigarade Terpineol

Palmarosa Oil

Rose ( Concrete / Absolute ) Rose Oil

Tuberose ( Concrete / Absolute )

Ylang Ylang Oils

Aromatic Chemicals

Acetophenone Amylsalicylate

Benzylacetate

Geraniol

Methyl Acetophenone

Nerolin Bromelia ( Beta Naphtol Ethylether )

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Payan Bertrand SA - France

Essential Oils, Absolutes & Specialties

Cananga Oil Mimosa India Abs. Mimosa Morocco Abs. Geraniol natural Geranium Bourbon Orange Flower Abs. Geranium China Oil Oranger Flower Water Abs. Geranium Egypt Oil Orris Abs. Osmanthus Abs. Methyl Anthranilate natural Rose Morocco Abs. Neroli Morocco Oil Rose Turkey Abs. Neroli Tunisia Oil Nerolidol natural Violet Egypt Abs. Violet French Abs. Orange Bitter Oil Concrete Palmarosa Oil Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol natural Orris 15 % Concrete Orris 8 % Concrete Rhodinol natural Rose Bulgarian Oil

Ylang Ylang Extra Oil Ylang Ylang I Oil Ylang Ylang III Oil

Absolutes

Broom Abs.

Jasmine Egypt Abs. Jasmine India Abs.

Mimosa French Abs.

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Penta Manufacturing - USA

Natural Chemicals

Geranium Oil Ethyl Caprate Terpineol Geranium Oil pure Geranium Oil Bourbon Farnesol Geranium Oil Chinese Geraniol, natural Ex-Citronella Oil Neroli Bigarade Oil Geraniol, natural Ex-Palmarosa Geranium Terpenes Palmarosa Oil Indian Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Butyrate Rose Oil Otto Geranyl Formate Geranyl Iso Butyrate Ylang Oil Extra Geranyl Iso Formate Ylang Oil # 1 Geranyl Iso Valerate Ylang Oil # 2 Geranyl Propionate Ylang Oil # 3 Ionone Floral Waters Ionone - alpha Ionone - beta Orange Flower Water Linalool natural Ex-Basil Aromatic Chemicals Linalool natural Oxide

Acetophenone Methyl Hexyl Ketone Anisic Aldehyde Anisyl Acetate Nerol Anisyl Alcohol 2-Octanol Cinnamyl Acetate Citronellol Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Citronellyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Citronellyl Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate Citronelly Propionate Phenyl Ethyl Propionate

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Perfume & Flavor Manufacturers - Australia

A Complete Listing

Cananga Hook F & Thomas Oil Cassis Bud Oil

Geranium Macorism Oil Geranium Oil - Africa, Bourbon, China, Egypt, Morocco Geranium Rose Oil

Jasmin Oil - Grandiflorum Jasminum Oil - Grandiflorum

Palmarosa Oil

Rosa Centifolia Oil - Bulgaria, France, Morocco Rosa Damascenia Oil - Bulgaria, France, Morocco Rose Oil - Bulgaria, Russia, Turkey Rose Otto Oil - Bulgaria

Ylang Ylang Oil

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Peter Jarvis Cosmetic Developments Ltd. - U.K.

Botanical Listing

Floral Waters

Flroal Water Neroli

Floral Water Rose Floral Water Rose Hip

Extracts

Geranium EG Geranium EO

Jasmin EG Jasmin EO

Neroli EG Neroli EO

Orange Blossom EG Orange Blossom EO

Rose EA Rose EG Rose EO

Violet EG

Ylang EO

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Petigara Chemicals - India

Natural Products

Geranium Oil

Jasmine ( Grandi Florum ) Abs. Jasmine ( Grandi Florum ) Concrete Jasmine Sambac Abs. Jasmine Sambac Concrete

Mimosa Abs. Mimosa Concrete

Nagarmotha Oil

Palmarosa Oil

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Petit Marie - Brazil

Lista De Produtos

Cananga Oil Acetato Geranila Flor De Laranja Eter Acetato Nerila Flor De Laranjeira ( Floralin ) Geranium Egyptian Oil Acetato Para Cresila Floralozone Acetofenona Floropal Ylang Ylang Oil Alcool C - 9 Florosa Alcool C - 10 Formiato Geranila Absolutes Aldeido Alfa Amil Cinamico Aldeido Anisico ( Aubapine ) Geraniol Extra Cassis Bourgeons Abs. Aldeido C - 12 Laurico Aldeido Ciclamen Hidroxi Citronelal Flor De Laranjeira Abs. Aldeido Muguet Hidroxi Citronelal Di Metil Acetal ( Oxi- Acet. Citro ) Hyacinth Body # 3 Jasmine Abs. Jasmin Egipto Abs. Benzil Iso Eugenol Ionol ( B.H.T. ) Ionona Alfa Hol. Mimosa Abs. Ciclosia Base Ionona Beta Citronelol Extra Ionona St Narcissus Abs. Iris Concrete ( Orris ) Damascenia 185 Iris Anthene Rosa Abs. Damascenone Irival Damascone Alfa Irone Alfa Tuberosa Abs. Damascenone Beta so Damascone Di Hidro Eugenol Iso Eugenol Violeta Folhas Abs. Di Hidro Iso Jasmone Iso Jasmone Di Metil Benzil Carbinol Resinoid Di Metil Fenil Etil Carbinol Jasmal Di Metil Octanol ( Pelargol ) Jasmolactona Iris Resinoide ( Lirio ) Dorina Jasmonato Metila Jasmonil ( Jessemal ) Aromatic Chemicals Etil Linalol Jasmophore Jessemal Acetato Benzila Fleur D’Orange Floraline Acetato Cinamila Fleuramone Lilial

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Limonil Linalol Liral

Metil Ionona Gamma Metil Iso Eugenol Metil Nonil Cetona Metil Octin Carbonato Mirabelle 2000

Nerolina Bromelia Nonadienal ( CIS 6 Nonelal )

Propionato Citronelila Propionato Geranila Propionato Nerila

Rodinol Rosa Wardia Rosalva Rosetone ( Rosafix - Rosacetal )

Salicilato Benzila

Tuberato Metila

Wardia

Yara Yara Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang I Ylang Ylang II Ylang Ylang III

262 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils, Inc. - USA

Essential Oils

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil Bourbon Geranium Oil Chinese Geranium Oil Egyptian

Neroli Oil Moroccan, Tunisian

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil Bulgarian, Turkish

Ylang Ylang Extra Oil Ylang Ylang I Oil Ylang Ylang II Oil Ylang Ylang III Oil

263

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Polarome Intenrational - USA

Product Listing

Bourgeons De Cassis Jasmin Abs. - Various sources Ylang Ylang Concrete Jonquil Abs. Cananga Decolorized Extracts Cananga Oil Mimosa Abs. French Mimosa Abs. Moroccan Blackcurrant Extract Natural 4/07 Geranium Oil Bourbon Geranium Oil Chinese Orange Flower Abs. Aromatic Chemicals Geranium Oil Egyptian Orris Liquid ( Absolute ) Geranium Oil Moroccan Alpha Terpineol Natural Rose De Mai Abs. French Alpha Terpineol Synthetic Neroli Oil Moroccan Rose Abs. Maroc Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Neroli Oil Tunisian Rose Abs. Turkish Amyl Salicylate

Palmarosa Oil Brazil Violet Leaf Abs. Benzyl Acetate Palmarosa Oil Guatemala Benzyl Acetate pure Palmarosa Oil India Ylang Ylang Abs. Benzyl Propionate Benzyl Salicylate Rose Oil Bulgarian Concretes Rose Oil Maroc Citronellyl Formate Rose Oil Turkish Geranium Concrete Decolorized Citronellyl Nitrile Cyclamen Aldehyde Ylang Ylang Complete Jasmin Concrete - Various sources Ylang Ylang Extra Jonquil Concrete Ethyl Caproate Ylang Ylang I Ylang Ylang II Orange Flower Concrete Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Ylang Ylang III Orris Concrete 8 % Orris Concrete 15 % Iso Eugenol Absolutes Iso Eugenyl Acetate Rose Concrete Maroc Broom Abs. - ( Genet ) Rose De Mai Concrete French Leaf Alcohol ( Cis 3 Hexenol ) Lily Aldehyde Geranium Abs. Violet Leaf Concrete Linalool Ex Ho Oil ( Natural ) Linalool Ex-Bois De Rose

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Nerolin Bromelia Nerolin Yara Yara

Phenyl Carbinyl Acetate ( Rose Crystals ) ( Rosalin ) Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate

Rose Crystals

Strallyl Propionate

Terpineol 318 Terpineol Alpha Natural Terpineol Alpha Synthetic

Yara Yara Crystals

265

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Premier Chemical Corporation - India

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga Oil Yara Yara

Geranium Oil

Jasmine Grandiflorum Abs. Jasmine Sambac Abs.

Neroli Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Aromatic Oils

Alpha Ionone Anisic Aldehyde

Benzyl Acetate Beta Damascone Beta Ionone (P/G)

Cyclo Rosan

Dihydro Iso Jasmone

Gamma Methyl Ionone Geranyl Acetone

Ionone 100%

Methyl Ionone

Rose Oxide

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Prima Fleur - USA

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Geranium Jasmine Abs. Pelargonium Graveolens Jasminum Grandiflorum Geranium Jasmine Sambac Abs. Pelargonium Graveolens Jasminum Sambac Geranium De Madagascar Pelargonium Graveolens Mimosa Abs. Acacia Decurrens Neroli Citrus Aurantium Narcissus Abs. Narcissus Poeticus Palmarosa Neroli Abs. Cymbopogon Citrus Aurantium

Rose Rose Abs. Rosa Damascena Rosa Centifolia Rosehip Total Rose Abs. Rosa Canina Rosa Damascena Rose Bourbon Abs. Ylang Ylang # 1 Rosa Borboniana Cananga Odorata Ylang Ylang # 2 Tuberose Abs. Cananga Odorata Polyanthes Ylang Ylang # 3 Cananga Odorata Violet Leaf Abs. Ylang Ylang Extra Viola Odorata Cananga Odorata Ylang Ylang Complete Cananga Odorata

Absolutes

Frangiapani Abs. Rosa Borboniana

267

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Privi Organics Ltd. - India

Product

Alpha Ionone Alpha Ionone Pure

Beta Ionone

Citronellyl Acetate Citronellyl Nitrile

Floralscone

Gamma Methyl Ionone Geranyl Acetate

Ionone 100 %

Methyl Ionone

Nerol Neryl Acetate

Styrallyl Acetate

268 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Prodarom - France

Training Manual For Student Perfumer’s

Main Olfactory Groups

Floral

Carnation

Gardenia Geranium

Hyacinth

Iris

Jasmin

Lilac Lily

Muguet

Rose

Violet

Ylang Ylang

Jasmine

Jasmin

Ylang Ylang

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Prodasynth - France

Aroma Product Line

Allyle Caproate Geranonitrile Rhodinol natural Anisque Alcool Geranyle Acetate natural Rosavertol Acetate Anisque Aldehyde Geranyle Acetate Prime Anisyle Acetate Geranyle Acetate Pure Terpineol Aurantiol Geranyle Benzoate Pure Geranyle Butyrate Fine Benzyle Acetate Geranyle Butyrate natural Geranyle Caprylate Benzyl Eugenol Geranyle Methyl Ether Benzyl Iso Eugenol Geranyle Phenyl Acetate Benzyle Acetate Geranyle Propionate Geranyle Propionate natural Cinnamyle Acetate Heliotropine Cironellol A.J. Hydroxycitronellal Citronellol natural Hydroxycitronellol Citronellyle Acetate Citronellyle Acetate natural Linalool Coeur Citronellyle Butyrate Linalool Naturel 99% Citronellyle Buyrate natural Linalool 925 Citronellyle Caproate Linalool Pur FT Citronellyle Phenyl Acetate Citronellyle Propionate Nerol Citronellyle Propionate natural Nerol natural Corps Cassis ( thiomenthone ) Nerolidol Neryle Acetate Di Hydro Linalool Neryle Acetate natural Neryle Propionate Geraniol BJ Geraniol natural Phenyl Ethyle Acetate Geraniol Prime Phenyl Ethyle Butyrate Geraniol Pur Phenyl Ethyle Cinnamate Geraniol Special 98% AT Phenyl Ethyle Propionate

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Puressence Wuersten Inc. - Switzerland

Essential Oils

Cananga Oil Violet Leaves

Geranium Oil Ylang Ylang

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Complete

Concretes

Broom

Carnation

Geranium

Hyacinth

Jasmin Jonquil

Orangeflower Orris Osmanthus

Rose

Tuberose

271

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Quality Analysis Ltd. - U.K.

Product List

Cananga Oil - Java Violet Leaf Abs. - France

Geranium Oil - Egypt Floral Waters

Palma Rosa Oil - India Rose Water Distilled Rose Water Triple Distilled Rose Oil - Russia Rose ( Otto ) Oil CO2 - England, Morocco Rose ( Otto ) Oil - Turkey

Ylang Ylang No. I, II, III - Comoros

Absolutes

Carnation Abs. - France

Genet Abs. ( Broom ) - Italy

Jasmin Abs. - Egypt, Ukraine

Linden Blossom Abs. - France

Mimosa Abs. - Morocco

Narcisse Abs. - France

Osmanthus Abs. - China

Rose Abs. - Egypt

Tuberose Abs. - India

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Rai Ingredients - Brazil

Raw Materials

Aldehyde C - 08 Aldehyde C - 09 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Aldehyde Amyl Cinnamic Alpha Damascone Amyl Salicylate

Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Salicylate

Citronellol Pure

Dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate

Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Pure

Hedione

Isoeugenol

Lilial Linalol Lyral

Methyl Antranilate

Rose Acetol

Terpineol Pure

273

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Raj Aromatics Aroma Corporation - India

Esential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Geranium Oil E

Clos D’Aguzon S.A. - France

Geranium Oil Geranium Oil Bourbon Geranium Oil Chinese

Neroli Oil

Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Oil I Ylang Oil II Ylang Oil III Ylang Oil STD

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Rhodia Organics - France

Fine Products

Alpha Ionone

Beta Ionone

Methyl Ionone

Petunial

Rhodiaflor Rosilial Rosilial Plus Rose Oxide ( High CIS )

Styrallyl Acetate

275

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Robertet SA - France

Natural Ingredients

Geranium Abs. Rose Turkey Abs. Gernaium Oil Rose Turque Essence

Iris Beurre Essence Tubereuse Abs. Iris Concrete Tubereuse 181 Iris Noir Abs. Irisodor Violet Leaves Abs. Iris Resinoid Ylang Abs. Jamaica ( Honeysuckle ) Oil Ylang Extra Oil Jasmin Chassis Abs. Ylang 1 Oil Jasmin Egyptian Ylang 3 Oil Jonquille Abs. Jonquille Jacinthe Abs.

Mimosa Abs. Mimosa Abs. Essence Mimosa Abs. Morocco Mimosa Odor Essence

Neroli Oil

Orris Concrete Natural Orris Concrete Natural Essence Osmanthus Abs. Osmanthus CC Abs. Osmanthus NT 5232 Osmanthus 7600 Abs. Osmanthus Sub Abs.

Rose Moroccan Oil Rose Oil Turkey Commercial Rose Otto Turque Oil

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Rosetta Enterprises, LLC - USA

Products

Cananga Java Native FCC

Geranium Bourbon Geranium Chinese Geranium Egyptian

Neroli Bigarade

Palmarosa FCC

Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang First Ylang Ylang Second Ylang Ylang Third

Aromatic Chemicals

Iso Eugenol

Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl Formate Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate

277

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SAT Group - India

Essential Oils

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil

Jasmine Oil

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose ( Abs. ) Oil Rose Oil Indian

Tuberose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Perfume Oils / Attars

Gardenia Perfume Oil

Jasmine Perfume Oil

Rose Perfume Oil

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SRS Aromatics Ltd. - U.K.

Perfumery Specialties

Specialty Bases Magnolia Flower Oil A Narcisse Abs. France A Magnolia Leaf Oil A Narcise Abs. France 2633 Bourgeon De Cassis Recobalm 5 Neroli Oil Tunisian Oranger Abs. Tunisia A Cyclamene 4430 P/A Oranger Abs. Tunisia 2868 Cyclamia 3990 P Rose Oil Turkey A Osmanthus Abs. Rose Oil Turkey 1282 Geranox Base 4524 P Rose RC 2165 Rose Abs. Rose Abs. Turkey A Hydroxalia Special 4761 P/A Ylang Oil Extra 1596 Rose Abs. Turkey 3219 Ylang Oil I 1924 Rose Abs. Egyptian Irisox 511 M Ylang Oil II 2641 Rose Abs. Morocco 3223

Jasmania Base 3874 P Absolutes Tuberose Abs. India A Jasminella 901 P Blackcurrant Buds Abs. 1918 Violet Leaves Abs. Neorosal 16 G Blackcurrants Buds Abs 1999 Violet Leaves Abs. Egypt A Blackcurrant Buds Abs. 191 Rose Recobalm 127 P/A Concretes Rose De Mai Absolue Recobase 1 Broom Abs. I Broom Abs. Italy 1495 Orris Concrete 15 % A Tuberose Super 4478 P Orris Concrete 15 % 2938 Tuberose Synthetic 4477 P Jasmine Abs. Egypt A Orris Concrete 8 % 2939 Jasmine Abs. Egypt 2455 Orris Concrete 8 % A Ylanox 3520 P Jasmine Abs. India A Jasmine Abs. India 1057 Natural Extracts Essential Oils Jonquil Abs. France A Acacia Flower Extract Blackcurrants Buds MD 63 % CIT Mimosa Abs. France A Mimosa Abs. Broom Tops Extract Geranium Oil Bourbon Type 1730 Mimosa Abs. France 2274 Geranium Oil Egyptian Rose Petals Extract Narcisse Abs. 3201

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Violet Extract Geraniol BJ Neryl Iso Butyrate Geraniol Fine Neryl Propionate Aroma Chemicals Geraniol Prime Geraniol Special Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Acetophenone Geranyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Allyl Caproate Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate Alpha Ionone Geranyl Acetate Extra Phenyl Ethyl Caprylate Anisyl Acetate Geranyl Acetate Prime Phenyl Ethyl Crotonate Geranyl Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Formate Benzyl Acetate Geranyl Iso Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Benzyl Salicylate Geranyl Nitrile Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate Geranyl Tiglate Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Cinnamyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Citronellol 96 FCC Heliotropin Citronellol A.J. Hexyl Salicylate Rhodinol Citronellol C Hyacinthal 469 G/B Rhodinyl Acetate G FCC Citronellol CJ FCC Hydroxycitronellal BJ Ribes Mercaptan Citronellol 80 Hydroxycitronellal Pure Rosalin ( Rose Acetate ) Citronellol Prime Hydroxy Dimethy Acetal Citronellol RH Styrallyl Acetate Citronellol Select Ionone AB Citronellol Terpenes Iso Rosal 38 C Terpineol Citronellyl 2 Methyl Butyrate Terpineol 350 Citronellyl Acetate Extra Jasmine Concrete ( Hexane ) Terpineol Alpha Citronellyl Butyrate Terpineol Alpha P&F FCC Citronellyl Crotonate Lilanate 3275 P Terpineol Chinese Timbreone Citronellyl Iso Valerate Lilial Methyl Anthranilate Terpineol B.P Citronellyl Nitrile Linalool Coeur Terpineol PQA Citronellyl Propionate Linalool Oxide Terpineol Super Citronellyl Senecioate Linalool Pure Terpineol Technical Citronellyl Valerate Linalool Special Cyclomyral Methyl Hexyl Ketone Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Methyl Ionone Gamma Di Hydro Linalool Methyl Ionone Terpenes Di Hydro Terpineol

Ethyl Caproate Nerol BJ Nerolex Floralyn Nerolin Bromelia Nerolin Yara Yara Geraniol 60 Neryl Acetate Geraniol 90 Neryl Butyrate

280 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Sarcom Inc. - USA

Fine Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Cananga Indonesia

Geranium China Geranium Egypt

Aromatic Chemicals

Benzyl Acetate 99 % China Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China

DMBC - Acetate China

Heliotropin 99 % China

Iso Eugenol USP Indonesia

Neroline Bromelia China Neroline Yara Yara China

Rosalin China

Styrallyl Acetate 98 % India

Terpineol PG China Terpineol MU China

281

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Science Lab - USA

Essential Oils

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil Algerian FCC Geranium Oil Bourbon Geranium Oil Chinese

Palmarosa Oil Palmarosa Oil FCC

Rose Hip Oil Refined Rose Oil Artificial Rose Oil Artificial NF Rose Oil Turkish Rose Oil Turkish FCC

Ylang Ylang Oil

282

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Seema International - India

Product List

Cananga Oil

Geraniol Oil Ex-Palmarosa Geranium Oil

Jamrosa Oil Jasmine Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil G - II 100 Rose Oil natural 101

Yara Yara Oil Ylang Ylang Oil

Attars Indian Specialty Perfumery Compounds - Floral

Rose G - 1 Rose G - 11 Rose Oil Natural ( 99.2 % ) Rose Water

283

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh - Germany

Products

Cananga Oil Java

Geranium Oil - Bourbon, China

Jasmin Abs. - India

Neroli Oil - Morocco, Tunesia

Palmarosa Oil - India

Rose Oil - Bulgaria, Turkey

Ylang Ylang I - Commoro Ylang Ylang II - Commoro Ylang Ylang III - Commoro

284

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Sensient Technologies Corporation - USA

Fragrances

Product List

Hexyl Salicylate

Iso Amyl Salicylate

285

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Shanghai M & U International Trade Co., Ltd. - China

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Geranium Oil

Aromatic Chemicals

Allyl Caproate Anisic Aldehyde Anisyl Alcohol

Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Salicylate

Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Acetate

Iso - Amyl Salicylate

Neroline Bromelia Neroline Yara Yara

Styrallyl Acetate

Terpineol

286

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Shreeji Aroma - India

Essential Oils & Aromatic Chemicals

Jasmin Abs Iso Damascone Iso Eugenol Palmarosa Linalool Rose 4 Distilled Rose Abs. Methyl Antranilate Methyl Ionone Aromatic Chemicals Nerol Super Alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Neroline Bromalia Alpha Damascon Alpha Ionone Rhodinol Amyl Salicylate Rose Crystals Rose De Mai Benzophenone Rose Oxide Benzyl Acetate Styrallyl Acetate Citronellol Citronellyl Acetate Terpiniol Citronellyl Formate Cyclorose Yara Yara Ylang Ylang Floral

Geraniol

Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Geraniol Extra Geranium Geranyl Formate Geranyl Nitrile Geranyl Propionate

Hedione Hydroxy

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Sigma Aldrich - USA

Essential Oils

Cananga Oil

Geranium Bourbon

Nerolin Bromelia Nerolin Yara Yara > 99 %

Rose Crystals > 97 % Rose Oil, Turkish

Ylang Ylang Oil Ylang Ylang Oil I Ylang Ylang Oil II Ylang Ylang Oil III

288

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Silvestris & Szilas Ltd. - Hungary

Essential Oils

Geranium Oil ( Geranium Macrorrhizum )

Neroli Oil ( Citrus Sinensis )

Rose Oil ( Rosa Damascena )

Ylang-Ylang Oil ( Cananga Odorata )

Herbal Extracts

Lemon Balm ( Melissa Officinalis )

289

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Som Santi House - India

Natural Products

Geranium Oil - Nat.

Jamrosa Oil - Nat. Jasmine Abs. - Nat.

290

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Some Extracts - India

Products

Imported Essential Oils - Natural

Cananga Oil - Indonesia

Geranium Oil - China

Neroli Oil Perf - Africa

Ylang Ylang Oil Extra - Haiti

Indigenus Essential Oils

Geraniol Palm ( HY ) 95 % Geranyl Acetate Palm ( HY ) 95 %

Linalool Acetate Basil/Citrata 85 % Linalool Acetate Basil/Citrata 90 % Linalool Basil/Citroata 96 % Linalool Basil/Citroata 98 %

291

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Sovimpex - France

Produits

Cananga Orange Amere Osmanthus Geranium - Chine Geranium - Egypte Rose

Neroli - Egypte Tubereuse Neroli - Maroc Neroli - Tunisie Violette

Palmarosa - Inde Aromatiques De Synthese

Rose - Bulgare Acetate Benzyle Rose - Maroc Aldehyde C - 8

Ylangs - Comores Citronellol Ylangs - Madagascar Lilial Derives Natureles Linalol Synthetique

Geraniol Methyl Anthranilate

Iso Eugenol Neroline Yara - Yara Neroline Bromelia Linalol Rosaline Rhodinol Salicylate Amyle Absolute / Concretes

Genet

Jasmin

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Spectrum Chemicals - USA

Fine Chemicals

Cananga Oil

Geranium Oil Bourbon Geranium Oil Chinese

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Hip Oil refined Rose Oil artificial Rose Oil Turkish

Ylang Ylang Oil

293

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Sundial Fragrances & Flavors - USA

Aromatic Chemicals

Allyl Caproate Linalool Extra 99 % Amyl Salicylate Linalool Oxide 95 % Linalool Pure 99.5 % Citronellal 80 Linalool Special 96 % Citronellol 80 Linalool Supra FCC 99.7 %. Citronellol Prime Citronellol AJ FCC Nerol 50 % Citronellyl Acetate Extra 95 % Nerol 70 % Nerol 80 % Di Hydro Linalool 97 % Nerolex 95 % Nerol FCC Neryl Acetate 45 % Geraniol 60 % Geraniol 70 (BJ) FCC Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate FCC Geraniol 80 % Phenoxy Ethyl Propionate Geraniol 90 % Phenyl Ethyl Acetate FCC Geraniol Fine FCC Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol USP/FCC Geranyl Nitrile 91 % Phenyl Ethyl Formate Geranyl & Neryl Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate FCC Geranyl Acetate 60 % FCC Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate FCC Geranyl Acetate Extra 98 % FCC Geranyl Acetate Prime 80 % Terpineol Alpha Extra 90 % Terpineol Alpha 95 % Hydroxycitronellal BJ/CJ 99 % Terpineol 101 Alpha 94 % Hydroxycitronellal Pure 99 % FCC Terpineol 200 Alpha 94 % Terpineol 318 Prime 98 % Ionone Alpha Terpineol 350 95 % Ionone Alpha 70 % Terpineol Alpha P & F FCC Ionone Alpha 80 % Total Terpineol Alpha Supra FCC 99 % Ionone AB 80 % Total Ionones Ionone Beta

Linalool 925 92.5 % Linalool Coeur 97 %

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Sunrose Aromatics - USA

Fine Essential Oils

Key: Orange Blossom Abs.

O - Organic Rose Abs., Bulgaria Rose Abs., Morocco ONC - Organic, not certified Wildcrafted Essential Oils WC - Wild crafte Geranium, India (WC) Geranium, Bourbon (O) Geranium, E. Yunnan, China Rosalina (WC) Geranium, India (WC)

Jasmine Grandiflorum - 10% in Jojoba Jasmine Sambac

Neroli Neroli - 10% in Jojoba

Palmarosa India (WC)

Rosalina (WC) Rose Otto - 10% in jojoba Rose Otto, Bulgaria

Ylang Ylang #3 Pure Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Ylang Extra ONC

Absolutes

Jasmine Abs., Egypt

295

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com Glen O. Brechbill

Symrise GmbH & Co. KG - Germany

Fragrance Ingredients

Alcohol C - 9 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Aldehyde C - 11 MOA Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Amyl Salicylate N/ISO Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Anisic Aldehyde Pure Phenyl Propyl Alcohol Anisyl Acetate Profarnesal Anisyl Alcohol Projasmon P

Benzophenone Resedafol Benzyl Acetate Rholiate Benzyl Acetone Rosaphen Benzyl Salicylate Rose Oxide D Rose Oxide Inactive Cinnamyl Acetate Rose Oxide Inactive High Cis Citronellyl Formate Rose Oxide L

Di Phenyl Oxide Styrallyl Acetate

Farenal Farnesol Special Farnesyl Acetate Florazon Floropal

Hexyl Salicylate

Iso Damascon Iso Eugenol Methyl Ether

Jacinthaflor

Lactojasmone Lactoscaton

296 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Synaco Group - Belgium

Essential Oils

Geranium Oil - China, Egypt

Jasmin Absolute Jasmin Concrete

Neroli Oil

Palmarosa Oil

Rose Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

297 Glen O. Brechbill

Synarome - France

Specialty Products

Bulgaflor Jasmin 8842 - 1 Anisque Aldehyde Di Methyl Jasmin Concreatarome Acetal Cassiarome Jonquille 2130 - RI Cassiarome FM CIS - Jasmone Cassis 7808 - 1 Lilas Mauve RH CIS - Jasmone II Corolia 7000 - 3 ( sans Hydroxy Citronellal ) Lilum FM Corps Iris 4720 Diantharome RI Luteal Corps Rose

Fleur De Jasmin Magnolia « S » Formiate De Rhodinyle Fleur De Jasmin RH Muguet Des Bois 11793 ( sans Hydroxy Citronellal ) Geraniol Palmarosa Fleur De Rose Narcisse 2573-RI-4 Flroeal Neroli 1747 T Hydroxycitronellal Di Ethyl Acetal Neroli 1927 Gardenia 361 - BM - 2 Jasmylone 99 Gardenia 361 - RI Odory’s 946 RH Gardenia Fleur Synthetique ( sans Hydroxy Citronellal ) Linalol Naturel Geranoxal Odorys RH ( sans Hydroxy Citronellal ) Hexarol 2358 Orisarome Hexarol RH ( sans Hdyroxy Citronellal ) Pelvial Humus RH Phenylal ( sans Hydroxy Citronellal ) Phenylal FM Physalis Iris Concretarome 2900 Iris V Aromatic Chemicals Natural Irisarome Acetate De Cinnamyle Jacinthe BC RI Acetate De Rhodinyle Natural Jasmarome Absolute Anisque Aldehyde Di Ethyl Acetal Jasmin 8188 - 1

298 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Tadimety Aromatics Pvt Ltd. - India

Product Line

Citronellyl Acetate Citronellyl Butyrate Citronellyl Iso Butyrate

Geranyl Acetate DP Geranyl Acetate SP Geranyl Formate DP Geranyl Formate SP

Neryl Acetate SP

Para Cresyl Acetate Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate Phenyl Ethyl Formate Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate

Rose Crystals Ex Benzaldehyde

299 Glen O. Brechbill

Takasago International Corporation - Japan

Aroma Chemicals Compendium

l-Citronellol a-Methyl Ionone Citronellol Extra y-Methyl Ionone l-Citronellyl Acetate l-Citronellyl Formate Nerol Extra l-Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Neryl Acetate l-Citronellyl Propionate l-Citronellyl Tiglate Orantha-l-super

Di Hydro Jasmone Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether

Florantone T y-Terpineol Extra a-Terpineol P & F laevo Geraniol Ex Citronella Terpinyl Methyl Ether Geraniol Extra Tetrahydro Geraniol Geranyl Acetate Extra Treflone Geranyl Nitrile

Heliobouquet Heliotropin Diethyl Acetal Heliotropyl Acetate a-Ionone a-Ionone Extra b-Ionone cis - Jasmone

Kovanol l-Laurinal Laurinal Linascol Linalool Natural

300 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Taytonn Ptd Ltd. - Singapore

Fine Aromas

Company’s Represented:

Aroma & Fine Chemicals

CV Aroma

Capua

Citrovita

EOAS International

IFF

Miltitz Aromatics

Silvestris & Szilas

Taiwan Fine Chemicals

Toyotama

Italian

Neroli

301 Glen O. Brechbill

Thailand Institute of Science & Technology - Thailand

Essential Oils by Country

Australia France Indonesia

Boronia Abs. Broom Abs. Cananga Oil Jasmin Abs. Palmarosa Oil Brazil Jasmin Concrete Mimosa Abs. Italy Bitter Orange Oil Nerol Oil Ylang Ylang Oil Orange Flower Abs. Jasmin Abs. Rose Oil Jasmin Concrete Bulgaria Tuberose Abs. Neroli Oil Violet Leaf Abs. Orange Flower Abs. Rose Oil Mimosa Abs. Guinea China Madagascar Bitter Orange Oil Geranium Oil Palmarosa Oil Jasmin Abs. Haiti Ylang Ylang Oil Jasmin Concrete Bitter Orange Oil Morocco Comoros Hungary Broom Abs. Cananga Oil Geranium Oil Palmarosa Oil Dill Weed Oil Jasmin Abs. Ylang Ylang Oil Roman Chamomile Oil Jasmin Concrete Neroli Oil Egypt India Orange Flower Abs. Rose Oil Geranium Oil Frangipanni Abs. Tuberose Abs. Jasmin Abs. Geranium Oil Jasmin Concrete Jasmin Abs. Netherlands Neroli Oil Jasmin Concrete Rose Oil Palmarosa Oil Hyacinth Abs. Tuberose Abs. Tuberose Abs.

302 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Reunion

Cananga Oil Geranium Oil Ylang Ylang Oil

Seychelles

Neroli Oil

South Africa

Jasmin Abs. Jasmin Concrete

Spain

Orange Flower Abs.

Turkey

Rose Oil

303 Glen O. Brechbill

Thakker Group - India

Essential Oils & Fragrances

Iso Eugenol - P T Indesso Projasmon ( P - Leuramone ) - Symrise Jacinthaflor - Hungary Rose ( Base ) - Symrise Ylang Ylang Oil - Payan Bertrand Ylang Ylang Oil ( A 8147 ) - Payan Bertrand

Aromatic Chemicals

Aldehyde C - 11 - Firmenich Alfa Damascone - Armor Allyl Caproate - Symrise Anisic Aldehyde - Indian

Chrysanthem - Symrise

Dorintha - Symrise

Farsenal - Symrise Floropal - Symrise

Geranyl Tiglate - Symrise

Hedione - Firmenich

Linalool - BASF / Kurary

Mugetanol - Symrise

Phenyl Propyl Alcohol - Symrise Profarsenol / Oncidal - Symrise

304 The Floral Notes of Fragrance

Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG - Germany

Products

Citronellylbutyrate Aroma Chemicals Mugetanol Citronellylformate Citronellylisobutyrate Acetophenone Neononylacetate Citronellylpropionate Argumex HC Nerolin Yara Yara Kist. Alcohol C 8 Farnesol P Alcohol C 10 Phenylethylacetate Farnesylacetate Phenylethylalcohol Florazon Allylcaproate Phenylethylcinnamate Anisaldehyde Phenylethylisobutyrate Geranylbutyrate Anisyalcohol Phenylethylphenylacetate Geranylisobutyrate Anisylacetate Phenylpropylalcohol

Hydratropaldehyde - DMA Benzylacetate Resedafol Benzylacetone Rosaphen Isodamascone Cinnamylacetate Styralylacetate Jacinthaflor Jacynthaflor Dimethylanthranilate Terpineol pure Jasfloral Farenal Muguetalcohol Floropal

Neromagnol Geranyltiglat

Parmanyl Hexylsalicylate

Rose Oxide D Ionone pure 100 % Rose Oxide inactive Rose Oxide inactive high cis Jasmaprunat Roxe Oxide L Methylanthranilate Methylbenzoate Methylbenzoate techn.

305 Glen O. Brechbill

Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. - China