Baoding Comes Clean
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Inside: Nov/DecTianjin Issue BAODING COMES CLEAN Will Blue Skies Return to China's Most Polluted City? Follow us on WeChat Now Advertising Hotline 400 820 8428 城市漫步北京 英文版 11 月份 国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press ISSN 1672-8025 NOVEMBER 2016 主管单位 :中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 :五洲传播出版社 地址 :北京市海淀区北三环中路31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 总编辑 Editor in Chief 慈爱民 Ci Aimin 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 李靥 Li Ye 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静,李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland Food & Drink Editor Noelle Mateer Staff Reporter Dominique Wong National Arts Editor Andrew Chin Digital Content Editor Justine Lopez Designers Li Xiaoran, Iris Wang 阿咪啄啄 AMAZE Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Mia Li, Dominic Ngai, Tongfei Zhang, Emma Huang, Emma Marshall, Jonty -云南私房菜&威士忌酒吧- Dixon, Lena Gidwani, Zhou Na, Zoey Zha, Zhang Mei, Liz Phung Yunnan Cuisine & Whiskey Bar Urbanatomy Media Shanghai (Head office) 上海和舟广告有限公司 周一至周日 每天一道新菜半价! 上海市蒙自路 169 号智造局 2 号楼 305-306 室 邮政编码 : 200023 豽ݩ蹭 Room 305-306, Building 2, No.169 Mengzi Lu, Shanghai 200023ܖ玖Ղ૱ᶲԎ豽Ӿ遬ᐣԯੜ᳁ 电话 : 021-8023 2199 传真 : 021-8023 2190 (From February 13) Beijing 广告代理 : 上海和舟广告有限公司 北京市东城区东直门外大街 48 号东方银座 C 座 9G 邮政编码 : 100027 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie Oriental Kenzo (Ginza Mall), Building C, Room 9G, Dongcheng District, Beijing 100027 电话 : 010-8447 7002 传真 : 010-8447 6455 Guangzhou 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司 广州市越秀区麓苑路 42 号大院 2 号楼 610 房 邮政编码 : 510095 Room 610, No. 2 Building, Area 42, Lu Yuan Lu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou, PRC 510095 电话 : 020-8358 6125, 传真 : 020-8357 3859-800 Shenzhen 广告代理 : 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司 深圳市福田区彩田路星河世界大厦 C1-1303 C1-1303, Galaxy Century Building, Cai Tian Road, Futian District, Shenzhen 电话 : 0755-8623 3220, 传真 : 0755-8623 3219 Operations Manager Ning Zhu Sales Manager Henry Zeng Sales Emma Cao, Daisy Lu, Jessica Zhou, Haley Tao Marketing Manager Justin Culkin Marketing Assistant Vivid Zhu CEO Leo Zhou Sales Project Director Henry Zeng Editorial Director Ned Kelly Financial Manager Laura Lu HR/Admin Director Penny Li Digital Projects Manager Vickie Guo Digital Content Manager Bridget O'Donnell Digital Timi Shi, Sybil Zhang, Joseph Liao, Miller Yue General enquiries (010) 8447 7002 Editorial (010) 8447 6455 [email protected] Events (010) 8447 6455 [email protected] Distribution/Subscription (010) 8447 7002 [email protected] Marketing (010) 8447 7603 [email protected] Advertising (010) 8447 7073 [email protected] 广告经营许可证 : 京海工商广字第 8069 号 法律顾问 : 大成律师事务所 魏君贤律师 Legal Advisor: Wei Junxian, Dacheng Law Firm 国际标准刊号 ISSN 1672-8025 国内统一刊号 CN 11-5232/GO 定价 : 25.00 元 邮发代号 : 2-930 部分非卖品 , 仅限赠阅 2 | NOVEMBER 2016 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITOR’S NOTE DEALS NOVEMBER We're giving away tickets to some of IT IS ALL TOO EASY TO BECOME TRAPPED IN THE BEIJING BUBBLE, OR, CONVERSELY, the very best Beijing That’s to think that you must travel deep into China to find intrigue. You don’t. As such, it has become a yearly tradition at to dedicate an autumn issue to somewhere just parties, openings, beyond the city limits. Two years ago, we traced the route of the proposed Seventh Ring Road, profiling the shows and talks all villages and commuter cities that will be dragged into Beijing’s orbit. Then, in 2015, we explored the huge changes taking place in rapidly urbanizing Tongzhou (that counts month, alongside as ‘outside the city,’ right?). We return to Hebei once again this year, as we visit nearby Baoding. free meals, drinks, Our neighbor to the southwest carries an uncomfortable reputation. Best known outside China as the country’s most-polluted city, there is plenty to dislike about Baoding. But as is often the case, one finds cause for optimism in unlikely places: The discounts and city’s air quality has improved dramatically in the last two years (which in turn improves ours here in Beijing) and, ironically, the alternative energy sector is booming. From page giveaways. All you 42, you can read our account from the heart of Hebei’s industrial belt. Elsewhere in the magazine, Dominique Wong speaks to a photographer profiling have to do is scan China’s ‘left-behind’ children (page 10); Andrew Chin tells us about one of China’s hottest indie bands, Future Orients (page 32); Jonty Dixon chats with Academy Award- winner Tim Robbins (page 36); Zhang Mei, founder of WildChina, takes us on a cu- the QR code below, linary journey through Yunnan (page 54); and Noelle Mateer previews this month’s TechCrunch Beijing (page 39) before bringing you her characteristically judicious round- follow us on WeChat up of the latest food and drink openings (from page 58). and keep an eye out for your chance to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too. Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Thats_Beijing twitter.com/ThatsBeijing facebook.com/ThatsBeijing WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2016 | 3 QUOTE OF THE ISSUE “Shanghai people don’t go to parks, they just go to IKEA” An employee at a Beijing IKEA explains the difference between branches in the two cities, page 8 6 CITY 8 A BRIGHT IKEA The Swedish home store fights back9 A PARKVIEWagainst loiterers TO KILL Architects and neighbors discuss Beijing’s15 WHAT’S hippest THE mall WORD? 9 This month’s Urban Dictionary tackles awkwardness 16 LIFE & STYLE 18 PUSS IN BOOTS Stylish footwear for Beijing this winter20 TO THE FUTURE Is TechCrunch 2016 worth the hefty22 JIMMY ticket WHO?price? 16 Jimmy Choo gives back to budding Chinese designers 28 ARTS 30 GRIME OF THEIR LIVES Elijah and Skilliam bring grime to the32 worldTHE FUTURE (and now IS Beijing) NIGH Indie band Future Orients on their36 ROBBINS icy rock YOUR UNCLE 34 Tim Robbins brings his latest show to the Beijing stage 52 EAT & DRINK 58 H O T C HI C K P E A S MoxiMoxi does Hummus like Beijing59 ON hasA ROLL never seen We’ve found killer bahn mi, you’re welcome60 BOTTLE IT UP 59 Taps are fine, but some of the best beers come in bottles 4 | NOVEMBER 2016 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM THE WRAP 42 GOING GREEN We see how China’s most polluted city cleans up 10 NO CHILD LEFT BEHIND 54 ME AND YUNNAN Grandma The rural children growing up with A journey through rural Yunnan begins with ham WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2016 | 5 CITYCITYTHE BUZZ FORBIDDEN FLAMES Firefighters complete a fire drill at Taihe Temple last month. It's the largest fire drill the Palace Museum has carried out in recent years. QUOTE OF THE MONTH RANDOM NUMBER “There were no clear warning signs. We were not aware the animals would be roaming free” 102 … is the depth, in meters, of a proposed railway station … said a woman who was severely injured in a tiger attack at a Beijing at Badaling, the most visited section of the Great Wall. As wildlife park. The woman, surnamed Zhao, was dragged away by a well as becoming the world’s deepest high-speed train tiger after she exited her car while driving through Badaling Wildlife station, it will also be the world’s largest, with a total World with her family. The woman’s 57-year-old mother was also area of 36,000sqm. The station is being built as a part attacked after coming to her daughter’s aid, and she subsequently of the Beijing-Zhangjiakou Railway, which will connect died of blood loss. Zhao claims that because of insufficient safety the three main venues of the 2022 Winter Olympics. warnings, the park should bear “70 percent” of the responsibility for Advanced explosion techniques will be used to protect her injuries. the nearby Great Wall. 6 | NOVEMBER 2016 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Edited by Dominique Wong / [email protected] UBER ANNOYING ASK A LAOBEIJING We met Li, 44, outside Yonghegong Car-hailing services like Didi and Uber are facing tough new restrictions, with its drivers now required to hold a local household registration (hukou) for the city Is filial piety less in which they operate. It is feared that the important in today’s regulations will result in a sharp drop in China? And is that the number of cars available in places like necessarily a bad thing? Beijing, where a vast majority of rideshare “Filial piety is an essential part of Chinese society. In app drivers are undocumented migrants fact, there is a Chinese idiom [baishanxiaoweixian] which (less than 3 percent of Didi drivers in states that respect for your elders is the most important Shanghai have a local hukou, the company virtue. claimed). Transport authorities have also You can see that filial piety is still important by looking introduced a minimum engine size that at online comments left on news articles about people could disqualify many of the small and mid- who’ve mistreated their parents. They all criticize the sized cars used by Didi and Uber drivers in misbehaving children. the capital. It’s true, though – modern life has changed people’s situations. It’s not as simple any more; young people want to travel, live and work overseas and be more ZHONGGUANCUN’S BIG APPLE independent. Life in China is so different. It’s developed very quickly and, for many, it’s fast-paced and tiring. Most parents understand this. They don’t want their children to feel pressured about their choices. So, as long as they are OK and in good health, some parents allow their kids to leave.