Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents

Volume 21 (1936-1938) Edited by J. H. B. Bell CONTENTS

ARTICLES The Late King George V 1 Editorial 2, 274 Scottish and its Relation to Mountaineering Abroad :– The General Aspect. By W. N. Ling 5 Remarks on Snow and Ice Conditions. By G. G. Macphee 85 Some Contrasts. By G. A. Solly 173 Rock . By E. A. M. Wedderburn 247 Scenery and Photography. By H. Gardner Ski-running. By H. MacRobert 379 No Chimney Corner. By R. S. H. 8 Days that are Past. By J. G. Inglis 9, 178 Man, it’s Great! By D. Myles 15 The Campsie . By J. N. Orr 18 Twelve Hours Up. By J. K. W. Dunn 34 Hummel Doddies. By B. H. Humble 27 Benighted on the Moor of Rannoch. By W. J. G. F. 29, 165 The “ Guide Book” 37 The Spell of . By C. R. P. Vandeleur 93 Sealladh Bho Eigne. By R. S. H 100 Beinn Mhor, . By J. MacLennan 101 The North-west Renfrewshire Hills. By G. F. Todd 105, 192 Sunrise from . By G. R. Roxburgh 110 Agag’s Groove. By A. C. D. Small 112 Joys of the Hut. By J. L. Aikman 163 Initiative in Climbing. By J. H. B. Bell 187 High Coolin Dawn. By B. H. Humble 197 Defeat. By W. H. Murray 237 A Dog’s Day. By R. Anderson 245 Under the Western Horizon. By E. W. Hodge 255 Recent Climbs in Coire Ardair:— Introduction. By J. H. B. Bell 262 The Pinnacle Buttress. By E. A. M. Wedderburn 263 The Centre Post. By J. H. B. Bell 399 The North Post. By I. H. Ogilvie 403 The Rocks North of the Posts. By I. H. Ogilvie 405 Chi! Chi! Chi! By J. G. Inglis 267 and and the National Trust for . By A. W. Russell 269 Old Numbers of the Journal. By R. M. G. Inglis 271, 339

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 1 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents

A Sunset. By R. S. H. 276 The Friendly Road. By T. R. Barnett 320 The Galloway Hills. By J. Dow 327 Fourteen Hours on the Observatory Ridge. By W. M. Mackenzie 337 Mist. By J. Cummings 359 Cobbler Calling. By B. H. Humble 392 Keats and Ben Nevis. By W. Garden 407 The Great Gully of Sgor nam Fiannaidh. By W. H. Murray 414

ILLUSTRATIONS— Etive and 1 Falls of Glomach—The Chasm 14 Man, it’s Great! 15 The Blanefield Face of the Campsie Fells 20 William Wilson Naismith 40 Winifred’s Pinnacle, 50 On Beinn Laoigh 54 The Cruachan Horseshoe 55 Brocken Spectre, 85 Beinn Laoigh from shoulder of Beinn Dubhcraig 93 Beinn Mhor, South Uist 101 Agag’s Groove, Buachaille Etive 112 S.M.C. at 122 Bruach na Frithe 122 Loch Coruisk and Sgurr Dubh 126 The Sunlit Ridge, 150 Frozen Waterfall, Carn Dearg North-West, Ben Nevis 163 Ben Achallader from Crannach Wood 165 A Pine Forest, the Monadhliaths 178 Sunset from A’ Chioch 197 Dawn on the North-East Buttress, Ben Nevis 200 and from Sgurr Dearg Ben Vair 216 The Tinto Indicator 222 Ben Nevis, North-East Buttress 237 Looking South from the Easains 244 Macleod’s Maidens 255 Village Bay and Dun Island, St. Kilda 260 Macleod’s Maidens 260 The Pinnacle Buttress, Coire Ardair (Sketch) 264 J. H. Bell 278 Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis ; Exit of South Castle Gully 281 Ben Nevis – Coire Leis and the C.I.C. Hut 282 Ben More, Mull, from 307 Alpine Sunrise 310

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 2 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents

On Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan 314 Ailama 314 from the Rimpfischhorn 315 Sail Mhor, Ben Eighe, from Liathach 315 and Ben Nevis from Peak, 318 An Alp, Typical of Switzerland 319 A Sea Loch, Typical of Scotland 319 The East End of Loch Affric 322 The Murder Hole of Loch Neldricken from the North 328 Mullwharchar and Ranges from North-East 329 Loch Doon from the South 329 Church Door Buttress, Western Edge 341 Ben Macdhui, Ski-ing 379 Ski-ing on Stob Coire an Lochain 382, 383 Stob Coire Sputan Dearg, Ben Macdhui 387 Ski Club Hut, 390 Ski-ing on Sgoran Dubh Mor 390 Scottish Ski-ing Country 391 Swiss Ski-ing Country 391 South Peak of the Cobbler 394 The Cliffs of Coire Ardair (Sketch) 398 The Cliffs of Coire Ardair 404 Jericho Wall, Great Gully, Sgor nam Fiannaidh 414 Stac Lii; St Kilda Village ; Conachair ; Western Horizons 430

IN MEMORIAM— W. W. Naismith. By Gilbert Thomson 40 H. Cockburn. By J. H. B. Bell 45 Prof. J. E. A. Steggall. By H. W. Turnbull 46 A. I. M’Connochie. By Wm. Garden and E. A. Baker 47 L. W. Hinxman. By T. F. S. Campbell 117 Sir F. O. Schuster. By G. A. Solly 118 H. C. Boyd. By J. H. Bell 119 W. Low. By C. W. Walker 121 W. Brunskill. By W. Barrow 213 J. Grove. By W. Nelson 214 G. L. Collins. By G . A. Solly 215 J. Rennie. By A. E. Maylard 277 J. H. Bell. By W. N. Ling 278 F. C. Squance. By Gilbert Thomson 279 G. B. Gibbs. By W. A. Mounsey 280 Dr C. Wilson. By W. N. Ling 357 M. Matheson. By D. Mackay 358 H. F. B. Sharp. By C. W. Walker 358

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 3 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents

T. F. S. Campbell. By R. A. Robertson 418 J. G. Stott. By R. A. Robertson 421 D. A. Archie. By Gilbert Thomson 422 P. Donald. By A. Harrison 423 T. J. Gibson. By A. E. Robertson 424

NEW CLIMBS 49, 200, 341, 427

NOTES AND EXCURSIONS 68, 132, 222, 286, 366, 429

S.M.C. ABROAD 68,137,292,436

REVIEWS 71, 144, 224, 296, 368, 439

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 54, 122, 216, 281, 360, 425

JUNIOR MOUNTAINEERING CLUB OF SCOTLAND 74, 150, 231, 302, 374, 446

ERRATA Page 300, line 6, for “ Mercanton “ read “ Montandon. Page 333, line 8, for “ 331-333 “ read “ 330-332.” Page 334, line 4, end of line, for “ II “ read “ III.”

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 4 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Names of Authors Aikman, J. L.: Joys of the Hut, 163 Aikman, J. L.: Warning to Hill Walkers, 222 Aitken, D.: Rock-fall in Arran, 290 Anderson, A.: Agag’s Groove, 204 Anderson, A.: Chasm, Buachaille Etive, 135 Anderson, R.: A Dog’s Day, 245 Anonymous: J.M.C.S., First Ten Years, 150

B., J.: The Ridge, 306 Bamett, Rev. T. R.: The Friendly Road, 320 Bell, J. : Aonach Dubh via Pleasant Terrace, 49 Bell, J. H. B.: Amphitheatre, Aonach Dubh, 50 Bell, J. H. B.: Pinnacles, 434 Bell, J. H. B.: Buachaille Etive, Central Buttress, 134 Bell, J. H. B.: Coire Ardair, Centre Post, 399 Bell, J. H. B.: Coire Ardair, Recent Climbs, introduction, 262 Bell, J. H. B.: Green Gully, The Comb, Ben Nevis, 350 Bell, J. H. B.: Initiative in Climbing, 187 Bell, J. H. B.: Observatory Buttress, Left Wall, 202 Bell, J. H. B.: Observatory Ridge, West Face, 352 Bell, J. H. B.: Rubicon Wall, Ben Nevis, 434 Bell, J. H. B.: South Trident Buttress, Ben Nevis, 136, 433 Bell, J. H. B.: Stob Coire an Lochain, Bidean, 134 Bell, J. H. B.: Zero Gully, Ben Nevis, 200 Brown, R.: Upper Couloir, , and Brocken Spectres, 305

Cummings, J.: Mist, 359

Dow, J.: The Galloway Hills, 327 Dunn, J. K. W.: Twelve Hours Up, 24

F., W. J. G.: Benighted on the Moor of Rannoch, 29, 165 Frere, R.: Gullies of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean, 354

Garden, W.: Keats and Ben Nevis, 407 Gardner, H.: Scenery and Photography, 307 Gibbs, G. B.: Letter re Ossian’s Cave, 68 Gilmour, W. A. : Climbs on Aonach Dubh, West Face, 433

Hamilton, J. F.: Agag’s Groove, 204

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 5 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Hamilton, J. F.: Central Buttress, Coire Mhic Fhearchair, 211 Higgins, R. S.: No Chimney Corner, 8 Higgins, R. S.: Sealladh Bho Eighe, 100 Hodge, E. W.: Garbh Chioch Mor, 289 Hodge, E. W.: Sea Mountaineering, 429 Hodge, E. W.: Under the Western Horizon, 255 Humble, B. H.: Cobbler Calling, 392 Humble, B. H.: Coronation Day on Ben Nevis, 289 Humble, B. H.: High Coolin Dawn, 197 Humble, B. H.: Hummel Doddies, 27 Humble, B. H.: Accidents in Scotland, 290

Inglis, J. G.: “Chi! Chi! Chi!” 267 Inglis, J. G.: Days that are Past (1882), 9, 178 Inglis, R. M. G.: Old Numbers of the Journal, 271, 339

Ling, W. N.: General Aspect of Scottish Mountaineering to Mountaineering Abroad, 5

Macdonald, J. Y.: The — A Warning to Photographers, 435 Macdonald, J. Y.: Height of Angel’s Peak and Neighbouring Cols, 288 Mackenzie, W. M.: Buachaille, Central Buttress, 286 Mackenzie, W. M.: Sgurr Alasdair, variation of Abraham’s Route, 286 Mackenzie, W. M.: Rubicon Wall, Ben Nevis, variation of final pitches, 287 Mackenzie, W. M.: Fourteen Hours on Observatory Ridge, 337 Mackinnon, T. D. : Stob Coire nam Beith, 205 MacLennan, J.: Ben Mhor, South Uist, 101 Macphee, G. G.: Snow and Ice in Scottish Mountaineering compared to Mountaineering Abroad, 85 Macphee, G. G.: Creag Coire na Ciste, South Gully, 203 MacRobert, H.: Golden Eagles in Arran, 436 MacRobert, H.: Ski-running, 379 Martin, A. A. B.: Aonach Dubh via Pleasant Terrace, 49 Murray, W. H.: Buachaille, Gully to South of Chasm, 432 Murray, W. H.: , , North-East Buttress, 208 Murray, W. H.: Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, Great Gully, 414 Murray, W. H.: Church Door Buttress, new route on West Face, 341 Murray, W. H.: Defeat, 237 Murray, W. H.: Sgurr na h-Uamha, South-West Buttress, 342 Myles, D.: Man, it’s Great! 15

Nettleton, M. B.: , note on gully on South Face, 432

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 6 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Nettleton, M. B.: Bidein an Eoin Deirg, 432 Nettleton, M. B.: Mullach an Rathain, Liathach, South Arete, 431 Nimlin, J. B.: Raven’s Gully, Buachaille, 348

Ogilvie, I. H.: North Post, Coire Ardair, 403 Ogilvie, I. H.: Rocks North of the Posts, Coire Ardair, 405 Ogilvie, I. H.: Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, Slanting Gully, 135 Orr, J. N. : The Campsie Fells, 18

Parker, J. A.: The Tinto Indicator, 222 Powell, L. S.: Water Pipe Gully, Skye, 430

Roberts, E. E.: Connival, 287 Roxburgh, G. R.: Sunrise from Ben More, 110 Russell, A. W.: Glen Coe and Glen Etive and the National Trust for Scotland, 132, 269

Seligman, Letter re International Committee of Snow, 70 Small, A. C. D.: Agag’s Groove, 112, 204 Small, A. C. D.: Buachaille Etive, new climbs, 344 Small, A. C. D.: Stac Polly, 133 Snell, N. L.: , Black Spout, 289 Solly, G. A.: Some Contrasts in Scottish Mountaineering compared with Mountaineering Abroad, 173 Solly, G. A.: Ossian’s Cave, 69 Steven, C. R.: Lady’s Gully, South Wall, Buachaille Etive, 343 Steven, C. R.: Buachaille, D Gully Buttress, 290 Stewart, M. B.: Aonach Dubh, West Face, 135

Todd, G. F.: The North-West Renfrewshire Hills, 105, 192 Turnbull, H. W.: , new climbs, 53

Vandeleur, C. R. P.: Spell of Ben Lui, 93

Wedderburn, E. A. M.: Pinnacle Buttress, Coire Ardair, 263 Wedderburn, E. A. M.: in Scotland compared with that Abroad, 247 Wilson, A. R.: Garbh Bheinn, Ardgour, South-east Chimney, 206 Wilson, J. D. B.: Aonach Dubh, C Buttress, West Face, 433 Wilson, J. D. B.: Climbs on Aonach Dubh, West Face, 433 Wilson, J. D. B.: Gully, 52

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 7 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Subject Index This Index contains Illustrations, S.M.C. Abroad, Club Proceedings, and Skye, which in former Indexes have been sectionised separately. (Heavy type has been used for titles of Articles.)

Accidents, note on, 275, 290 A’ Chioch, Skye, photo of sunset from, 197 A’ Chir, No. 3 Gully, rockfall in, 290 Ailama, photo, 314 Alpine Sunrise, photo, 310 Angel’s Peak. See Cairntoul Aonach Dubh. See Bidean nam Bian Aonach Eagach, gully on South face, note, 432 Archie, D. A., obituary, 422 Arran, Golden Eagles in, 436 Avalanches, notes on, 90

Ballooning near Glasgow, ref. to, 43 Bell, J. H., obituary and photo, 278 Ben, Beinn— Achaladair, photo, 165 a’ Bheithir, view from Sgurr Dearg, 216 Cruachan, Horseshoe, photo, 55 –view from, photo, 318 Eighe, Coire Mhic Fhearchair, Central Buttress, direct route, 211 Eighe, Coire Mhic Fhearchair, diagram of, 212 Eighe, Sail Mhor, photo, 315 Ghlas. See Lawers, Ben Ghlas, Scot. Ski Club Hut and photo, 390 Lui, Spell of Ben Lui, 93 Central Couloir, photo of party, 54 Macdhui, ski-ing on, photo, 379 –Stob Coire Sputan Dearg, –photo, 386 Mhor, South Uist, 101 Mhor, South Uist, Coire Hellisdale, climbs, 101 Mhor, South Uist, buttresses, 101-104 –gullies, 104 –photo, 101 More, Mull, magnetic rocks, 429

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 8 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

More, , Sunrise, 110 Nevis, Fourteen Hours on the Observatory Ridge, 337 –Joys of the Hut, 163 –Ascent in 1818 by John Keats, 407 –Carn Dearg, North-West, gully to L. of Raeburn’s Buttress, 1st ascent, 427 ––waterfall on, photo, 163 –Coire Leis, photo, 282 –Creag Coire na Ciste, South Gully, 1st ascent, 203 –Douglas Boulder, West face, new route, 203 –Green Gully, 350 –Hut, photo, 282 –North-East Buttress, photo, 200, 237 ––type of rock, 188 –Observatory Buttress, L. wall, 1st ascent, 202 –Observatory Buttress, photo, 200 –Observatory Ridge, photo, 200 ––West face, 352 ––winter ascent, 337 ––Rubicon Wall, 434 –––variation of final pitches, 287 –South Castle Gully, exit, photo, 281 –South Trident Buttress, 433 –Tower Gap Chimney, note on, 90 –Trident Buttress, new route, 136 –Zero Gully, 1st ascent and photo, 200 Starav, view of, 1 Bidean nam Bian Aonach Dubh, Amphitheatre, 50 B Buttress, climb continued., 135 C Buttress, West face, 49 D Buttress, West face, new climb, 433 Knife Edge Buttress, 52 Ossian’s Cave, face, 49 –visits, 69 Pleasant Terrace, 49 Winifred’s Pinnacle, photo, 50 Church Door Buttress, photo, 341 West face, new route, 341 Crypt Route, 434 Stob Coire nam Beith, chimney between Buttresses 3 and 4, 205

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 9 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Stob Coire an Lochain, North ridge, gully between South and Central Buttress, climbed, 134 Bidein an Eoin Deirg, arete, 432 Black Spout. See Lochnagar Blaven, A Dog’s Day, 245 Boyd, H. C, obituary, 119 Braeriach Pinnacles, climbs on, 434 Brocken Spectre, 305 photo, 85 Bruach na Frithe, photo, 122 Brunskill, W., obituary, 213 Buachaille Etive Mor, Agag’s Groove, 112 A December Night on the Crowberry Ridge, 237 Twelve Hours Up, 24 Agag’s Groove, 1st ascent, 113 –described, 204 –photo, 112 Central Buttress, climbs on, 134, 286 Chasm, notes on pitches, 135 gully to South of, 1st ascent, 432 Crowberry Gully, winter ascent, 24 Crowberry Ridge, new climbs, 344 D Gully Buttress, note on, 290 Fracture Route, 345 Garrick’s Shelf described, 238 Helical Route, 346 High Level Traverse, 346 Hyphen Rib, 347 Lady’s Gully, South Wall, 343 Raven’s Gully, 1st ascent, 348

Cairngorms, ski-ing on, 382-83, 386, 388 Cairntoul, Angel’s Peak, height of, 288 Campbell, T. F. S., obituary, 418 Campsie Fells, 18 climbs mentioned, 19-23 geology, 18 photo, Blanefield Face, 20 Carn Gorm Loch, Strathvaich, height, 426 Caves near Connival, , 287 Chasm. See Buachaille Etive Mor Chi ! Chi ! Chi ! verses, 267

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 10 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Clachaig Gully. See Great Gully, Sgurr nam Fiannaidh Climbing Down, necessity of proficiency, 92 Cobbler, Cobbler Calling, 392 climbs on, 392-98 early ascents, 395 South Peak, photo, 394 Cockburn, H., obituary, 45 Collins, G. L., obituary, 215 Compass, Silva, 367 warning to photographers, 435 , Assynt, caves, 287 Corrieyairack, Ghost of, 326 Crampons, note on, 88 Creag Coire na Ciste. See Ben Nevis Creag Meaghaidh— Recent Climbs in Coire Ardair, 262, 399 Coire Arder, Apollyon Ledge, 263 B Buttress, 400 photograph of cliffs, 404 Pinnacle Buttress, chimneys, 264 described, 263 diagram of, 264 type of rock, 187 Posts, Centre, 399 –North, 403 –rocks to North of, 405 –South, 401 Raeburn’s Gully, 263 sketch of cliffs, 398 Vanishing Ledge, 264 Cruising Holiday, hire of yacht, 435 Crypt Route. See Bidean nam Bian Cuillin Ridge, traverse, with times, 306

Dawn from the Cuillin described, 197 Days that are Past, 9, 178 Defeat, A December Night on the Crowberry Ridge, 237 , ski-ing on, photo, 391 Donald, P., obituary, 423 Douglas Boulder. See Ben Nevis

Eagle’s Buttress. See Lochnagar Equipment, notes on, 87, 174

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 11 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Falls of Glomach, photo, 14

Galloway Hills, 327 bibliography, 336 expeditions in, 333 groups, 332 landowners, 356 place names, 328 routes to, 330 Garbh Bheinn, Ardgour, Great Ridge, South-East Chimney, ascent, 206 diagram of face, 207 North-East Buttress, ascent, 208 Garbh Chioch Mor. See Sgurr na Ciche Gibbs, G. B., obituary, 280 Gibson, T. J., obituary, 424 Glencoe and Glen Etive and the National Trust for Scotland, 132, 269 Glencoe, Meet, New Year, 1937, Press account of, 216 Glen Doll Gully, 52 Glissading, notes on, 89 Golden Eagles in Arran, 436 Grove, J., obituary, 214 Gullies, care required in, 89

Hebrides, Motor Yacht Cruise to, 255 High Coolin Dawn, 197 Hill Walkers, warning to, 222 Hinxman, L., obituary, 117 Hornberg, view from, 391 Hummel Doddies, 27 Hut, Charles Inglis Clark Memorial See Ben Nevis

Ice-axe, notes on, 87 sling, necessity of, 87 Ice Conditions in Scotland, 88 Initiative in Climbing, 187 Isle of May, Pilgrim’s Haven, pinnacle, 53

“Journal,” S.M.C., Old Numbers of, 271, 339 Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland. The First Ten Years, 150 Sectional News. (See also 75, 231, 374)

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 12 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Edinburgh, 74, 155, 302, 448 Glasgow, 79, 157, 303, 446 , formation, 375, 448 Perth, 161, 306, 447

Keats and Ben Nevis, 407 King George V., In Memoriam, 1

Liathach, Mullach an Rathain, South Arete, 431 Loch Affric, East end, photo, 322 Coruisk, photo, 126 Doon, photo, 329 Etive, view of, 1 Lomond, frozen in 1895, 43 Neldricken, photo, 328 Lochnagar, Black Spout, left-hand branch, first summer ascent, 289 Eagle’s Buttress, asc, 209 Low, W., obituary, 121

M’Connochie, A. I., obituary, 47 Macleod’s Maidens, photo, 254, 260 from Beinn a’ Bheithir, 216 Matheson, M., obituary, 358 Meets. See under Scottish Mountaineering Club Merrick Range, photo, 329 Mist, a poem, 359 Monte Rosa, photo, 315 Mountain Sense, note on, 189 Mountaineering Rules, notes on, 189 Mullach nan Coirean, view from, photo, 307

Na Gruagaichean, photo, 150 Naismith, W. W., obituary, 40 National Trust for Scotland, purchase of Forest of Dalness and part of Glencoe, 132, 269-70 New Climbs, information in detailing, 190 Nights out on the , notes on, 174

Photography, cameras, 316 films, 317 hints, 307-19 Pine Forest, photo, 178

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 13 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Pinnacle Buttress. See Creag Meaghaidh Pitons, use of, 6 Place-names, Galloway Hills, 328

Rannoch Moor, benighted on, 29, 165 Rannoch Wall. See Buachaille Etive Mor Renfrewshire Hills— The North-West Renfrewshire Hills, 105, 192 description, 193 geology, 106 main summits, 106 ski-ing possibilities, 194 view from, 195 Rennie, J., obituary, 277 Reviews— Alpine Climbing on Foot and Ski (Wedderburn), 298 Armathwaite (Pilkington), 226 Ascent of Nanda Devi (Tilman), 370 Attack on Everest (Macintyre), 227 Ben Nevis Guide, S.M.C. (Macphee), 37 Blank on the Map (Shipton), 439 Camp Six (Smythe), 296 Climbs in Alps and Caucasus (Mummery), 226 Collected Poems of G. W. Young, 145 Cwm Idwal Dist. Guide (Climbers’ Club), 226 Everest, The Challenge (Younghusband), 146 Everest, The Unfinished Adventure (Ruttledge), 369 Glyder Fach Group (Climbers’ Club), 296 Great Gable Guide ( and Rock C.C.), 223 Highlands of Scotland (Quigley), 144 Hill Writings (Doughty), 297 Himalayan Assault (Morin), 439 Himalayan Campaign (Bauer), 368 Island Memories (Dougal), 297 Italian Alps (Freshfield), 371 Mountain Days in Highlands and Alps (Walker), 371 Mountain Scene (Smythe), 297 Night Climbers of Cambridge, 371 Over Tyrolese Hills (Smythe), 144 Playground of Europe (Stephen), 226 Rock Climbing and Mountaineering (Brunning), 146 Safety in the Mountains (N. Z. Mountaineering Clubs), 373 Scrambles among the Alps (Whymper), 226

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 14 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Snow on the Equator (Tilman), 369 Snow Structure and Ski Fields (Seligman), 225 Songs for Climbers (Humble and McLellan), 440 Spirit of the Hills (Smythe), 71 Technique of Alpine Mountaineering (S.A.C.), 224 Voyage de Saussure hors des Alpes (Gos), 146 Wanderings among High Alps (Wills), 371 Wayfaring round Scotland (Humble), 146 Young Men in the Arctic (Glen), 71 Road, The Friendly, 320 Rock Climbing, 247 Rock climbing, best method of learning, 5 Rope, notes on, 86, 189 Rubicon Wall. See Ben Nevis

St Kilda, visit to, and photo, 260, 430 Stac a’ Biorrach, 260 Schuster, Sir F., In memoriam, 118 Scottish Mountaineering Club – Abroad, 68, 137, 292, 436 Club Room in Synod Hall, Edin., 64 Guide Books— Lowlands, decision against publication, 61 Meetings, Annual General, and Dinners (1935), 59; (1936), 219; (1937), 364 Meets— Aviemore, 124 , 360 Dalmally, 54 Fort William, 281, 427 Glen Coe, 216 Sligachan, 122 , 360 , 425 Office-Bearers. See Annual General Meeting for Year –Harrison, Alex., Hon. Secretary, 1930-35, 65 –Parry, Chas. W., Hon. Editor, 1933-35, 66 –Thomson, Edward C, Hon. Treasurer, 1928-36, 220 Rules, Alteration of No. 22, 61 Subscription, commutation of, 61 Scottish Mountaineering and its Relation to Mountaineering Abroad— The General Aspect, 5 Remarks on Snow and Ice Conditions, 85

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 15 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Some Contrasts, 173 Rock Climbing, 247 Scenery and Photography, 307 Ski-running, 379 Scottish Ski Club Hut, 384, 390 Sea Mountaineering, 429 Sealladh Bho Eighe, 100 Sgoran Dubh Mor, ski-ing on, photo, 390 Sgurr Alasdair, Abraham’s Route, variation, 286 Sgurr nan Ceannaichean, gullies, 355 Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, photo, 314 Sgurr na Ciche, Garbh Chioch Mor claimed as separate mountain, 289 Sgurr Dubh, photo, 126 Sgurr nan Fheadain, Waterpipe Gully, new pitch, 430 Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, Great Gully, 1st ascent, 414 Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, Jericho Wall, 1st ascent, 416 Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, Jericho Wall, photo, 414 Sgurr na Lapaich, Affric, photo, 322 Sgurr a’ Mhadhaidh, Slanting Gully, last pitch climbed direct, 135 Sgurr na h-Uamha, South-West Buttress, 1st ascent, 342 Sharp, H. F. B., obituary, 358 Ski-ing, 380-91 bibliography, 380-81, 391 centres, 382, 384, 386 note on, 88 Skye, stretchers installed by Club, 136, 274 Sligachan, Meet, Easter, 1936, and photo, 122 Snow conditions in Scot., notes on, 88, 366 Spectre of the Brocken, photographed, 86 Squance, F. C, obituary, 279 Stac Polly, West Buttress, climbs on, 133 Steggall, Prof. J. E., obituary, 46 Stob Coire nam Beith. See Bidean nam Bian Stob Coire an Easain, Mamores, view from, 244 Stob Coire an Lochain. See Bidean nam Bian Stob Gabhar, upper couloir, 90, 305 Stobinian, ski-ing on, photo, 382 Stott, J. G., obituary, 421 Stretchers installed by Club at Glencoe, Hut, and Skye, 136, 274 Sunset, 276

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 16 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index

Thunderstorms, 175 Tinto, diagram of indicator, 222 Tower, etc. See Ben Nevis Tramps and Tinkers, tales of, 321-2 Trident, etc. See Ben Nevis Twelve Hours Up, 24

Under the Western Horizon, 255

Warning to Hill Walkers, 274 Waterpipe Gully. See Sgurr Fheadain Weather, Scottish Hill, notes on, 173 Wilson, Dr C., obituary, 357

Zero Gully. See Ben Nevis

Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 17 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Contents

Volume 22 (1939-1941) Edited by J. H. B. Bell CONTENTS

ARTICLES The Club in Retrospect:– Its Origin and Growth. By A. E. Maylard 6 Some Reminiscences. By Gilbert Thomson 14 The First Official Meet. By Professor T. H. Bryce 24 The Alpine Club and the S.M.C. By G. A . Solly 26 The 1897 Meet on “S.S. Erne.” By Walter Barrow 29 “,” 3, 265 Feet. By T. F. S. Campbell. 32 The Journal. By F. S. Goggs- 33 Pan. By the Rt. Hon. Lord Tweedsmuir 41 Spring. By T. F. S. Campbell 43 Salvationist and Ultramontane. By J. H. B. Bell 44 Sir Hugh T. . By J. A. Parker 45 Harold Raeburn. By W. N. Ling 47 A Short History of Scottish Climbing :– Up to the Outbreak of the War of 1914-18. By H. MacRobert 50 From 1918 to the Present Day. By E. A. M. Wedderburn 98 Rum. By E. W. Hodge 59 The Inaccessible Pinnacle. By Lawrence Pilkington. 63 The Monadh Liath “.” By J. Gall Inglis 109 The Geology of Glen Coe. By E. B. Bailey 116 A New Year Camp. By G. G. Elliot 126 The Conquest of Buachaille Etive. By Aodh Macbaph 123 Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge, Blaven, and Clach Glas. By I. G. Charleson 127 Valhalla. By J. H. B. Bell 161 Notes on the Cheviot Hills. By A. W. Peacock and J. Dow 176 Night Up There :– Nights Out. By E. A. M. Wedderburn .177 on Ben Nevis. By W. H. Murray 244 The Adventures of Past Presidents. By W. N. Ling, H. MacRobert, & P. J. H. Unna 277 Glow-worms and Summer Nights. By T. M. Wedderburn and E. W. Hodge 353 Challenge. By J. C. 183 The Furthest Hebrides. By E. W. Hodge 184 A Crowberry Commentary. By A. C. D. Small 190 Rock Climbs on the Cobbler. By J. B. Nimlin, B. H. Humble, & G. C. Williams 221 A Visit to the in 1875. By W. A . Smith 234, 309 “The Inferior Mountains.” By J. F. A. Burt 240

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 18 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Contents

Reverie. By R. M. G. Inglis 262 The Lowther Hills. By J. Rooke Corbett 287 Electric Storms. By J. H. B. Bell 291 Dirrie More Roundabout. By J. McCallum Young. 305 The Lone Climber. By J. S. M. Jack 308 Old Tracks and “Coffin” Roads and Cross-Country Routes in the North-West Highlands. By A. E. Robertson 327 Night Up There. Verses by G. D. V 352 Since War Began. By C. R. Steven 362 A Ben Nevis Constellation of Climbs. By J. H. B. Bell 367 The Glomach Falls and . By Allan Arthur 377

ILLUSTRATIONS– Wm. W. Naismith 1 A. E. Maylard 1 Gilbert Thomson 1 The Club at Inveroran, Easter 1894 6 Sgorr Dhonuill from North 12 The Head of 30 Rum from Rhudunan 31 Joseph Gibson Stott 33 from Loch Coulin 38 North Peak of the Cobbler from the South 39 Sir Hugh T. Munro 46 Harold Raeburn 47 The Inaccessible Pinnacle 63 The Rosa Pinnacle, Cir Mhor 70 , South-West Buttress 70 Strone Ulladale, West Harris 71 Ben Cruachan, Main Top and Stob Dearg, from Drochaid Glas 74 Lower 75 “At the Dinner.” Sketch 81 Falls of Glomach 97 Aonach Air Chrith, North Face 104 Coire nam Beith, from the Road. Geological Sketch 116 Glen Coe, from the Study 118 A New Year Camp, Braeriach 120 A.R.P. on Buachaille Etive 120 Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Dearg, from Marsco 128 Ascending Sgurr na Forcan – 145 Wind-furrowed Snow 161 On Ben Nevis, looking South-East 168 Cruises in Search of Mountains, 1936-40 184 Rannoch Wall, Agag’s Groove 192

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 19 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Contents

Diagrammatic Sketch of Crowberry Ridge 193 Rannoch Wall, Route 1 197 Rannoch Wall, Red Slab Route 197 John Buchan, Lord Tweedsmuir 200 The Ben More Range from Beinn Odhar 208 Summit of the Cobbler 221 The Cobbler from the Upper Corrie 224 South Peak, Cobbler. Diagrammatic Sketch 224 South Peak of the Cobbler 225 North Peak, Cobbler. Diagrammatic Sketch 228 Cobbler Cave. Diagrammatic Sketch 232 Loch Avon and Shelter Stone Crag 240 Cir Mhor from Caisteal Abhail 241 Sir Henry Alexander 256 Cloud Horizons 277 Beinn Fhionnlaidh (Ula) 278 Stob Coir’ an Albannaich and Loch Dochard 301 Loch Luchd Choire, Creag an Duine 308 Loch Etchachan 309 Red Craig, Clova – the Parapet 316, 317 Rosa Pinnacle, South Ridge 317 Ben Nevis 327 Loch Monar, looking West 331 East End of Loch Affric 340 The Moor of Rannoch 345 Mam na Cloich Airde 358 Ben Nevis, Alpha Route 372 Ben Nevis, the Orion Climbs 372 Orion 372 Ben Nevis, Delta Route 373 Ben Nevis, V Traverse 373 Frank Sidney Goggs 380

IN MEMORIAM– James Gall Inglis. By F. S. Goggs 140 Francis Greig. By S. F. M. Cumming 141 Alfred Harker. By A. E. Robertson 142 Robert E. Osborne. By J. G. Osborne 144 Lord Tweedsmuir. By S. A. Gillon 200 Col. T. H. Smith. By G. R. Donald .205 Alex. M. Buchanan. By G. M. Lawson 207 Sir Henry Alexander. By W. Garden 255 John R. Levack. By J. A. Parker 257 Frank Sidney Goggs. By W. N. Ling, H. MacRobert, and Allan Arthur 380

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 20 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Contents

Robert Corry. By R. Jeffrey 383 E. W. Steeple. By H. MacRobert and J. H. B. Bell 384

NEW CLIMBS 63, 134, 197, 248, 315

NOTES AND EXCURSIONS 82, 149, 211, 263, 387

S.M.C. ABROAD 85, 153, 215

REVIEWS 87, 155, 215, 269, 325, 389

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 74, 145, 208, 259, 322, 385

JUNIOR MOUNTAINEERING CLUB OF SCOTLAND 93, 159, 219, 275, 392

THE S.M.C. AND THE WAR 260, 325

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 21 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Names of Authors Anon.: , double traverse, 268 Anon.: Pitons on Crowberry Ridge, 151 Arthur, A.: Glomach Falls and Glen Affric, 377

Bailey, E. B.: Geology of Glen Coe, 116 Barrow, W.: Yachting Meet description, 29 Bell, J. H. B.: Belial’s Binge, 252 Bell, J. H. B.: Ben Nevis Constellation of Climbs, 367 Bell, J. H. B.: Ben Nevis, North-West Face, Observatory Buttress, 68 Bell, J. H. B.: Electric Storms, 291 Bell, J. H. B.: Jubilee of the S.M.C., 1 Bell, J. H. B.: Lochnagar, Parallel Buttress, 137 Bell, J. H. B.: Lochnagar, Tough Brown Ridge, 149 Bell, J. H. B.: Margaret Gruer, biographical note, 84 Bell, J. H. B.: Maud Buttress, Creag Mellon, 254 Bell, J. H. B.: Prof. N. Collie, biographical note, 80 Bell, J. H. B.: Salvationist and Ultramontane, 44 Bell, J. H. B.: Sgoran Dubh, Robert’s Ridge, 135 Bell, J. H. B.: Valhalla, 161 Bennet, J.: , Moss Gully, 139 Brown, R.: Narnain Buttress, 266 Bryce, T. H.: First S.M.C. Meet described, 24 Burt, J. F. A.: The Inferior Mountains, 240

C. J.: Challenge, 183 Campbell, T. F. S.: An Caisteal, 32 Campbell, T. F. S.: Spring, 43 Charleson, I. G.: Traverse of Cuillin Ridge and Clach Glas, 127 Corbett, T. R. : The Lowther Hills, 287 Coxon, L. S. : Cioch na h’Oighe, 70 Cram., A. L. : The Munros, 150 Cross, S. H. : Buachaille, Shackle Route, 73

Donaldson, R. G.: Second Traverse of Cuillin Ridge and Clach Glas, 132 Dow, J. : Notes on the Cheviot Hills, 174 Elliot, G. G.: A New Year Camp, 120 Ferguson, J. G.: Lochnagar, Eagle Buttress, 253 Ferguson, J. G.: New Climbs in the Clova District, 315

Gillon, S. A.: Early ascent of , 211 Goggs, F. S. : The Journal, 33 Grant, H. W.: Buachaille, North Buttress, New Routes, 318 Hamilton, J. F.: Rosa Pinnacle, South Ridge, 320

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 22 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Heath, P. R. L.: Coire Ardair, 150 Hewit, J. R. : Narnain Buttress, 266 Hodge, E. W. : Furthest Hebrides, 184 Hodge, E. W. : Mirage, 84 Hodge, E. W. : Rosa Pinnacle, South Ridge, 387 Hodge, E. W. : Rum, 59 Hodge, E. W. : Summer Nights, 357 Hodge, E. W. : Water-pipe Gully, 84 Humble, B. H. : Aonach Beag, South-West Buttress, 03 Humble, B. H. : Rock Climbs on the Cobbler, 221

Inglis, J. G.: Monadh Liath Munros, 109 Inglis, R. M. G.: Carn Gorm Loch, 151 Inglis, R. M. G.: Reverie, 262

Jack, J. S. M.: The Lone Climber, 308 Jeffrey, R. : Foreword to No. 128, 97

Laidlaw, D.: Sugach Buttress, 213 Lester, W. R.: Jubilee Letter, 2 Ling, W. N. : Harold Racburn, 47 Ling, W. N. : Night Up There, 277

Macbaph, Aodh : Conquest of Buachaille, 123 M’Laren, K. : Broad , North-East Slabs, 266 M’Laren, K. : Fan Rib, Sgoran Dubh, 320 M’Laren, K. : Ladhar Bheinn, Moss Gully, 139 M’Laren, K. : Lochnagar, Creag an , North-West Gully, 252 Macphee. G. G.: Ben Nevis, Good Friday Climb, 134 MacRobert, H.: Night Up There, 280 MacRobert, H.: Scottish Climbing to 1914, 50 Maylard, A. E.: Origin and Growth of S.M.C., 6 Murray, W. H.: Blood and Glucose Diet, 132 Murray, W. H.: Cobbler, North Peak, North Rib, 199 Murray, W. H.: Crowberry Gully, 152 Murray, W. H.: Hogmanay on Ben Nevis, 244 Murray, W. H.: Raven’s Gully, Buachaille, 153 Murray, W. H.: Stob Coire nam Beith, Deep-cut Chimney, 152

Nettleton, M. B.: Lurg Mhor, 264 Nettleton, M. B.: Sgurr na Lapaich, Gully, 66 Nettleton, M. B.: Sgurr na Stri, West Face, 68 Nimlin, J. B. : Rock Climbs on Cobbler, 221

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 23 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Ogilvie, H. I.: Buachaille, January Jigsaw, 198 Ogilvie, H. I.: Buachaille, Red Slab Route, 197 Ogilvie, H. I.: Buachaille, Satan’s Slit, 197 Ogilvie, H. I.: Ben Nevis, Evening Wall, 248 Ogilvie, H. I.: B. Nevis, Compression Crack, 248 Ogilvie, H. I.: B. Nevis, Great Tower, 266 Ogilvie, H. I.: B. Nevis, Tower Face, Comb, 249 Ogilvie, I. H.: , South-East Face, 69

Parker, J. A.: Ben Cleuch Panorama, 263 Parker, J. A.: Can be seen from South Uist ?, 149 Parker, J. A.: District of Visible Sea Horizon, 264 Parker, J. A.: Sir Hugh Munro, 45 Paterson, K. A. W. : Paulus Peak, Greenland, 212 Peacock, A. W. : Notes on Cheviot Hills, 170 Pigott, A. S.: Rosa Pinnacle, East Face, 71 Pilkington, L.: Inaccessible Pinnacle 63 Plackett, R. L.: Stob, Coire nam Beith, Buttress 2a, 251

Ritchie, G. S.: New Climbs in Clova District, 315 Robertson, Rev. A. E. : Old Tracks and Coffin Roads in the North-West Highlands, 327 Robertson, R. A. : Jubilee Letter, 2 Rucksack Club Journal, Garbh Bheinn, North Face, 267 Rucksack Club Journal, Garbh Bheinn, North-East Buttress, 267 Rucksack Club Journal, Sgurr a’ Ghreadhaidh, Slab Route, 267 Rucksack Club Journal, Sgurr Dearg, South Buttress, 70 Rucksack Club Journal, Strone Ulladale, 72

Scott, J. : , North-East Slabs, 266 Scott, J.: Fan Rib, Sgoran Dubh, 320 Simmonds, B. N. : Skye Munros in a Day, 213 Small, A. C. D. : Avalanche Accident, 83 Small, A. C. D. : Crowberry Commentary, 190 Small, A. C. D. : Crowberry Ridge, Girdle Traverse, 268 Smith, W. A.: Visit to Cairngorms in 1875, 234, 309 Stangle, F. G.: Comb Gully, B. Nevis, 65 Steven, C. R. : Since War Began, 362 Stott, J. G.: Jubilee Letter, 33

Thomson, Gilbert: Reminiscences of the S.M.C, 14 Tweedsmuir, Lord: Pan, 41

Unna, P. J. H.: Night Up There, 283

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 24 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Valentine, G. D.: Night Up There, 352

Walker, T. B. D.: Cuillin Ridge, Walker, T. B. D.: Clach Glas, 265 Wedderburn, E. A. M.: History of Scottish Climbing from 1918 to 1939, 98 Wedderburn, E. A. M.: Nights Out, 177 Wedderburn, T. M. : Glow-worms, 353 Williams, G. C. : Rock Climbs on the Cobbler, 221 Wood, J. R.: Crowberry Ridge, Wood, J. R.: Girdle Traverse, 268 Woods, W. L.: Cuillin Main Ridge, 265 Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, 151 Young, J. M’C.: Dirre More Roundabout, 305 Zenthon, E. R. : Buachaille, Pluto’s Pilgrimage, 251

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 25 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Subject Index (Heavy type has been used for titles of Articles.)

Accidents.1937-39, 82;1939-40, 213 Alexander, Sir H., obituary, and photo. 255 Alpine Club, Note on, 28 An Caisteal, poem, 32 “ Anti-sun,” 166 Aonach Beag, South-WestButtress, 1st ascent, 63 photo, 70 Aonach Air Chrith, North face, photo, 104 Attadale, tracks, 335 Avalanche accident, 83 Beinn a’ Bheithir, Sgurr Dhonuill, photo, 12 Ben Cleuch, Panorama described, 263 Beinn Cruachan, Main Top and Stob Dearg, photo, 74 Beinn Eighe, from Loch Coulin, photo, 38 Beinn Fhionnlaidh from the Lodge, photo, 278 Ben Lomond, ascent in 1734, 211 Ben More, Perth group, photo, 208 Ben Narnain, Arrowhead Buttress, 321 Buttress, South-East arete, 266 Sugach Buttress, first winter ascent, 213 Ben Nevis, A Constellation of Climbs, 367 Valhalla, 161 Alpha Route, 371 photo, 372 Carn Dearg Buttress, Evening Wall, 248 Comb Gully, first ascent, 65 Hesperides Ledge, 250 Tower Face, 249 Delta Route, 371, 376 photo on, 373 Girdle Traverse of, 373-376 Good Friday Climb, 134 Great Tower, new route from Eastern traverse, 266 Long Climb, 370, 376 North-East Buttress, and Observatory Ridge, photo, 327 Observatory Buttress, North-Westface, first ascent, 68 Orion Climbs, sketches, 372 Raeburn’s Buttress, Compression Crack, 248 Ridges compared, 163 Sunrise from, desc, 246 Tower Ridge, winter ascent, 164 V traverse, 372

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 26 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

photo, 373 View to South-East, photo, 168 Winter Camp on Summit, 244 Bidean nam Bian, Crypt Route, 83 geological sketch, 116 Stob Coire nam Beith, Buttress 2A, 251 Deep-cut Chimney, winter ascent, 152 Blaven and Cuillin Ridge, complete traverse, with times, 127, 132 Blood and Glucose Diet, notes on, 132 Braeriach, camping in winter on, 120 Broad Cairn, North-East slabs, ascent, 266 Brown, R., obituary, 144 , snow formation, photo, 161 Buachaille Etive Mor, The Conquest of Buachaille Etive, verses, 123 Crowberry Commentary, 190 Agag’s Groove, photo, 192 Central Buttress, photo of party on, 120 Crowberry Gully, winter ascent, 152 Crowberry Ridge, detailed examination, 190 diagrammatic sketch, 193 Girdle Traverse, 268 pitons on, 151 North Buttress, Belial’s Binge, 252 Crack and Groove, 319 Judas Rib, 319 North-East Zigzag, 319 Pluto’s Pilgrimage, 251 Shackle Route, 73 Slanting Groove, 310 Rannoch Wall, January Jigsaw, 198 Red Slab Route and photo, 197 Route I., photo, 197 Satan’s Slit, 197 Raven’s Gully, 2nd ascent, 153 Buchanan, A. M.: obituary, 207

Cairngorms, A Visit to the Cairngorms in 1875, 234, 309 A.R.P. in, 276 seven highest climbed in a day, 388 Cairngorm, spring near summit, 238 view from, 238 Cairngorm Club, reference to foundation of, 15 Carn Gorm Loch, Strathvaich, height of, 151 Cave Meets, origin of name, 19

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 27 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Challenge, verses, 183 Cheviot Hills, 170 access to, 170, 172-176 bibliography, 175 rock scrambles on, 173 Roman Camp and Road, 172 Cioch na h’Oighe, Arran, new route, 70 Cir Mhor, photo, 241, 317 Rosa Pinnacle, East face, Easter Route, 71 Rosa Pinnacle, photo, 70 South Ridge, 320, 387 Clachlet, view from, photo, 277 Climbing, Scottish, short history, 50, 98 Cloud Horizons, photo, 277 Corrie Ardair, Pinnacle Buttress, 1st ascent, 150 . See Glen Doll Cobbler, Rock Climbs on the Cobbler, 221 Bibliography, 233 Cave, sketch of, 232 Caving, 232 Centre Peak Climbs, 227 North Peak Climbs, 199, 229-231 South Peak Climbs, 224-226 summit, photo, 221 view of, from Upper Corrie, 224 winter conditions on, 232 Collie, Prof. J. N., biographical note, 80 Corry, R., obituary, 383 Cram, A. L.: all tops in Munro’s Tables climbed by, 150 Creag an Dubh Loch, North-West Gully, 1st ascent, 252 Creag an Duine, Loch Luchd Coire, photo, 308 Creag Mellon, Glen Doll, Maud Buttress, 254 Crook Inn, first S.M.C. Meet at, 24 Cuillin Main Ridge and Blaven, traverse of, 127, 132, 265 Cuillin Main Ridge, traverse, 265 , night out in storm on, 280

Dinner, at the, sketch, 81 Dirrie More Roundabout, 305

Earliest Mountaineering Club in Scot., reference to, 15 Electric Storms, 291

Falls of Glomach, photo, 97

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 28 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Gaiter Club, 10 Garbh Allt, Strath Nethy, 235 Garbh Bheinn, Ardgour, North face, new route, 267 North-East Buttress, 267 Gas Masks, climbing in, photo, 120 Geology of Glencoe, 116 Glen Affric and the Glomach Falls, 377 Glen Clova, Red Craig, North-West Buttress, new climbs, 316 South-East Buttress, new climbs, 317 Parapet, photo, 316, 317 Glen Coe, Geology of Glen Coe, 116 photo from The Study, 118 Glen Doll, Coire Fee, Comb, 1st ascent, 315 Slanting Gully, 315 Glenelg to Glengarrv and Lochaber, 336 Glen Nevis, photo, 75 Glen Strath Farrar to . 332 Glomach Falls and Glen Affric, 377 Falls of, photo, 97 Glucose and Blood Diet, notes on, 132 Goggs, F. S., obituary, and photo, 380 Gorton to Glen Lyon, 347 Green Loch, 236 Greig, F., obituary, 141 Gruer, Margaret, death of, 84 Harker, A., obituary, 142 Hebrides, The Furthest Hebrides, 184 Flannan Isles and Chapel, 186 Monach Islands, 187 Shiant Isles, 185 Military Patrols after 1745, 348 History of Scottish Climbing : Up to 1914, 50 1918 to 1939, 98 Horizon, distance of, 264 Hunter, T. D., obituary, 207 Inferior Mountains, 240 Inglis J. G., obituary, 140 Ireland, doubt if seen from South Uist, 84, 149 Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland Down, J. R., death of, 392 important ascents by members, 101-108

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 29 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Meets, 93, 159 Office-bearers, 93, 159, 275 Photo Exhibition, 94 Sectional News, Glasgow, 95, 159, 275 , 275 Inverness, 276 London Association, 160, 276, 392 Perth, 160, 276 , from Poolewe, 328 to Coulin and Strathcarron, 330 to Dundonnell and Ullapool, 329 Kintail to Glen Cannich and Loch Affric, 339 Ladhar Bheinn, Moss Gully, 1st ascent, 139 Levack. J. R., obituary, 257 Ling, W. N., mountaineering record abroad, 75 Loch Affric, East end, photo, 340 Loch Avon, photo, 240 , New Year Meet, 1939, at, 74 Loch Coulin, photo, 38 Loch Dochard, photo, 301 Loch Etchachan, photo, 309 Loch Monar, looking west, photo, 331 Loch Nevis, photo, 30 Lochaber to Rannoch, 343 Lochnagar – Eagle Buttress, 253 Parallel Buttress, 137 Tough Brown Ridge, new descent, 149 Lone Climber, verse, 308 Lowther Hills, access to, 288 bibliography, 290 described, 287 paths on, 290 tops, 288-289 Lurg Mhor, summit ridge, 264 Mam na Cloich’ Airde, photo, 358 Matterhorn, double traverse in 24 hours, 268 Maylard, A. E., photo, 1 Mirage, A, 84 Monadh Liath Mountains, The Monadh Liath Munros, 109 Carn Dearg, possible climbs on, 110-112 doubtful tops in, 111-112

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 30 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Geal Charn, gully on, 115 view from, 112 Moor of Rannoch, photo, 345 Munro, Sir Hugh T., biography, memoir, and photo, 45 Naismith, W. W., photo, 1 New Year Camp, 120 Night Up There, verses, 352 Adventures of Past Presidents, 277 Glow-worms and Summer Nights, 353 Hogmanay on Ben Nevis, 244 Nights Out, 177 Ogilvy, H. I., death of, 258 Old Tracks and “ Coffin “ Roads and Cross-country Routes in the North-West Highlands, 327 Osborne, R. E., obituary, 144 Pan, 41 Paulus Peak, Greenland, 1stascent, 212 Poolewe to Kinlochewe, 328 Prince Charlie, references to, 329, 332, 337, 338 Raeburn, H., biography, memoir, and photo, 47 Rannoch to Gorton and Argyllshire, 346 Rannoch Station to Kingshouse, 345 Red Craig. See Glen Clova Reverie, verse, 262 Reviews– Adventures of a Mountaineer (Smythe), 270 Alpine Album (Smythe), 272 Alpine Pilgrimage (Kugy), 269 Alps, The (Irving), 216 Alps in 1864 (Moore), 89 Always a Little Further (Borthwick), 155 Approach to the Hills (Meade), 217 Assam Adventure (Ward), 390 British Hills and Mountains (Bell, Bozman, and Blakeborough), 271 By Many Waters (Haldane), 272 Camera in the Hills (Smythe), 216 Days of Fresh Air (Amery), 215 Edward Whymper (Smythe), 269 English Lakeland (Wallace), 391 Five Miles High (Bates), 390 Hills of Lakeland (Cooper), 88 Himalayan Honeymoon(Pares), 270 Himalayan Quest (Bauer), 87 Lakeland through the Lens, 272

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 31 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Mountaineering (Peacocke), 390 Mountain Way (Irving), 87 Old Strathclyde (Humble), 157 Peaks and Lamas (Pallis), 215 Pictures and Memories (Clark), 217 Rock Climbs (Frere), 89 Scotland under Trust, 155 Ten Great Mountains (Irving), 271 Unclimbed New Zealand (Pascoe), 88 West Highlands and Hebrides, Geology (Harker), 389 Rum, 59 Allival, East Face, 59 Askival, description to Trallval, note, 60 East Ridge, note on, 60 South-East Face, first ascent, 69 Barkeval, crag to South-West, note on, 59 expeditions on, 60-61 general description of, 59 Rock, type of, 59 sea cliffs, climbing possibilities, 60 Sgurr nan Gillean, cliff, 60 view of, from Rhudunan, 31 Saddle, Sgurr nan Forcan, photo of party, 145 Salvationist, origin of name, 44 Scottish Climbing, pioneers of, 50-57 outstanding events, 58 short history of, 50, 98 Scottish Mountaineering Club The Club in Retrospect– Origin and Growth, 6 Reminiscences, 14 First Meet, 1891, Crook Inn, 24 Alpine Club and the S.M.C., 265 Yachting Meet, 1897, 29 Abroad, 85, 153, 215 Club Rooms, history of, 21-23 meetings, 1938-39, 148 formation of, 7, 14 Founders of, photographs, 1 “Guide Books,” 9, 35 Hut, Charles Inglis Clark Memorial, 12 Journal, early history, 9, 33-40 Jubilee of, I letters from original members, 2

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 32 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Meetings, Annual General, and Dinners (1938), 78; (1939), 210; (1940), 324 Meets, Cave, origin of name, 19 Aviemore, 385 Cluanie, 145 Crianlarich, 208, 322 Fort William, 259 Inveroran, 1894, photo, 6 Tomdoun, 146 Office-Bearers since formation, 5, 37, 153 Roll of Honour, 1940-41, 260, 325 Sgoran Dubh, Fan Rib, 320 Roberts Ridge, 135 Sgurr Alasdair from Marsco, photo, 128 Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, view from, 277 Sgurr na Ciche, photo, 30 Sgurr Dearg, Inaccessible Pinnacle, and photo, 63 South Buttress, 1st ascent, 70 view of, from Marsco, photo, 128 Sgurr an Fheadain, Water-pipe Gully, note, 84 Sgurr a’ Ghreadhaidh, Slab Route, 267 Sgurr na Lapaich, Ross, snow Gully from Garbh Coire, 66 Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, new route on, 151 Sgurr na Stri, West Face, 1st ascent, 68 Shelter Stone, A.R.P. at, 276 Shelter Stone Crag, photo, 240 Since War Began, 362 Skye Munros in a day, 213 Snow, wind furrows, photo, 161 Solly, G. A., mountaineering record, 5 Spring, poem, 43 Steeple, E. W., obituary, 384 Stob Coire an Albannaich, photo, 301 Stott, J. G., photo, 33 Strathcarronto Monar, Cannich, Tomich, and Fort Augustus, 331 Strone Ulladale Precipice, Harris, 1st ascent, 72 photo, 71 Sunset from Ben Nevis described, 166 Thomson, Gilbert, photo, 1 Tweedsmuir, Lord, obituary and photo, 200

Uist, South, doubt if Ireland seen from, 149 Ultramontane, origin of name, 44 Valhalla, 16.1 Visit to the Cairngorms in 1875, 234, 309

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 33 Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 Index

Winter Camping and Equipment, 244 photo, 120

Volume 22 [XXII; Nos. 127-132] 1939–1941 34 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Contents

Volume 23 (1942-1947) Edited by J. H. B. Bell CONTENTS

ARTICLES The Last Day on Buachaille. By W. H. Murray 1 Some Notes on the Forest History of the Highlands. By Dr G. K. Fraser 8 Some Variations and Discoveries on Lochnagar. By J. H. B. Bell 28 Our Eagles and their Prey. By G. D. Valentine 53 The Spring Cuillin. By J. D. B. Wilson 61 Coast and Hill Paths around the . By B. H. Humble 68 The Moorfoot Hills. By R. M. Gall Inglis 74 Hill-men. By J. McCallum Young 78 General Wade’s Highland Roads. By Rev. A. E. Robertson 81 The Knees of the Gods. By John Buchan (Lord Tweedsmuir) 82 For a Scottish Mountaineer who is a Prisoner of War. By J. C. 89 Some Glen Almond Climbs (and Others). By the Editor and M. B. Nettleton 90 Cairn on Ben Lawers. By H. MacRobert 94, 191 Sligachan and some Early Visitors. By G. D. Valentine 117 Ben A’n. By J. B. Nimlin 134 Recent Rock Climbs on Ben Nevis. By B. P. Kellett 139 Memorable and Long Days among the Scottish Mountains. By A. Arthur 153, 352 Days with Friends. By C. W. Parry 162 Libyan Mirage. By J. C. 171 The Scottish Mountains in Art. By J. F. A. Burt 172 Scotland, 1926. By C. W. P. 176 Reflections on Laoigh and Neighbouring Hills. By C. E. Andreae 177 New Climbs in Arran. By G. C. Curtis and G. H. Townend 180 Water Power Development in the Highlands. By G. Peat and A. Harrison 197 Roads and Tracks through the Northern Highlands. By J. A . Parker 211 The Peeblesshire Hills. By W. L. Coats 217 At Sligachan – The Classic Age. By G. D. Valentine 224 Arran, 1944. By G. C. Curtis and G. H. Townend 238 The First Spring. By G. D. V. 245 A Holiday in the Early Forties. By A. H. Hendry 246 Scottish Climbing Clubs. A Survey. By the Editor 252, 295, 452 Preservation of Scottish Mountain Land for the Nation. By P. J. H. Unna 261 The Evidence of Things not Seen. By W. H. Murray 281 To the Cuillin. By D. J. F. 286 Bad Weather and Bivouacs. By W. M. Mackenzie 287 June in Skye. By J. S. M. J. 308 Rock Climbing around Dundonnell. By E. C. Pyatt 309 Mr Pepys goes “Munroing.” By W. J. Bannister 315

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 35 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Contents

Notes on the Northern Area. By E. W. Hodge 322 A Survey of Mountain Accidents in Scotland, 1925-45. By B. H. Humble 325 A Record of Ben Nevis Climbs. By B. P. Kellett 333, 408 The Snow and Ice Climbs of Glencoe. By W. M. Mackenzie 365 The Great Gully of Garbh Bheinn. By W. H. Murray 379 Forestry in the . By G. K. Fraser 384 New Routes in Glencoe. By W. H. Murray 397 Golden Eagles in Arran. By G. C. Curtis and G. H. Townend 415 The British Mountaineering Council and the Association of Scottish Climbing Clubs. By J. K. W. Dunn 422 Mountain Accidents in Scotland from 1st March 1945 to 1st March 1947 430 J. Logan Aikman. By A. Harrison and J. W. Baxter 446

ILLUSTRATIONS – Pine Forest – Ballochbuie and Lochnagar 1 Buachaille Etive Mor 4 Ancient Scots Pine Forest – Glen Cannich 16 Looking up Glen Derry 17 Oak-Birch Forest – Looking towards 24 The Cliffs of Lochnagar 28 New Year on Stob Ghabhar 49 Sea and Islands from Sgurr Alasdair 53 The 56 Coire na Creiche 64 The Dubhs from Sgumain 65 Beinn Mhor (Loch Eck) from Puck’s Glen 68 The New Year Meet (1943): Beinn a’ Chreachain 72 Loch Goil 72 Sligachan in 1873 86 The Cairn on the Top of Ben Lawers 94 The Pinnacle, Meall Dubh, Glen Almond 94 J. Norman Collie 95 G. A. Solly 98 Loch Coruisk 117 Sgurr Alasdair Massif 132 South Face of Ben A’n. Sketch 136 Ben A’n – The Rent 138 Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis – North Wall, Route B. 139 Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis – North Wall (from Castle Ridge). Sketch 152 Carn Elrick 154 The Pools of Dee 155- Easter Meet (1939), Cluanie 160 The Aonachs, from the Easains 161 Cir Mhor – North-East Face 180

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 36 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Contents

 and the Fannichs 181 Thormaid agus Mhic Coinnich 197 Roughburn Dam, 200 The Chisholm’s Pass, Glen Affric 201 Loch Quoich and 210 Strath na Sheallag 211 Panorama over Knoydart from Ben Aden 228 Sron na Ciche 234 Sgurr Mhic Coinnich 235 Ben Tarsuinn, Bhradain Face. Sketch 240 South Face of Cir Mhor. Diagram 242 Caliban’s Creep, Cir Mhor 243 Ceum na Caillich, Broomstick Ridge 243 E. A. M. Wedderburn 264 (from Beinn Tulaichean) 270 Bidean nam Bian from Buachaille Etive Mor 281 Diagrams of Snow Shelters 290 “The Mountaineer”(Lomond Mountaineering Club) 308 : Face of Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill. Sketch 308 An Teallach 309 Mr Pepys goes “Munroing” 318 Mr Pepys sounds the Waters and leads the Coach through 319 Ben Nevis : North-East Buttress and Observatory Ridge 338 Roping Down 339 Arnold Brown 340, 341 Chombu, Sikkim 340 Panorama from Inverinate 352 Aonach Eagach 365 Stob Coire nan Lochan 378 Garbh Bheinn, Ardgour 379 Birch in Rothiemurchus Forest. • 388 Loch Lubnaig 389 Loch Voil and Ben Vorlich 396 Lagangarbh 397 Caisteal Abhail: South Face. Sketch 418 Lochnagar: Gargoyle Direct. Sketch 427 Creag an Dubh Loch : North-West Buttress 428 James A. Parker 432 S. M. C. Party on Ben Nevis: Easter 1892 433 443

IN MEMORIAM – Gilbert Thomson. By A. E. Maylard and J. A. Parker 35 David A. Clapperton. By S. F. M. Cumming 38

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 37 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Contents

William Fraser. By A. E. Robertson 39 Ernest A. Baker. By J. M. Davidson 39 Lawrence Pilkington. By D. F. Pilkington. 42 Mrs Macrae of Glenbrittle. 42 John Norman Collie. By Wm. Garden 95 Godfrey A. Solly. By W. N. Ling, 98 Sir Geo. Adam Smith. By J. H. B. Bell 100 Percy A. Hillhouse. By Jas. Craig 101 Hugh Gardner. By F. D. C. Allen 102 Chas. E. Bell. By J. S. M. Jack 103 John Campbell of Sligachan. 104 Walter A. Reid. By J. A. Parker 190 A. M. M. Williamson. By W. Ross McLean 263 E. A. M. Wedderburn. By J. H. B. Bell 264 B. P. Kellett 269 R. A. Brown. By H. MacRobert 341 William Lawson. By G. Beck-Slinn 342 James A. Parker. By Wm. Garden . 432 William R. Lester. By J. H. B. Bell 434 Norman L. Hird. By R. Jeffrey . 435 Robert G. Napier. By J. L. Aikman 435 G. D. Valentine. By J. H. B. Bell 436 Walter Nelson. By J. Neil Orr 438 Matthew V. Hunter. 439

NEW CLIMBS 43, 109, 194, 276, 349, 426

NOTES AND EXCURSIONS 51, 109, 191, 276, 349, 450

S.M.C. ABROAD 7, 356, 453

REVIEWS 52, 114, 195, 275, 348, 454

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 48, 105, 187, 270, 343, 440

J.M.C.S. 116, 196, 280, 362

S.M.C. AND THE WAR 108, 274, 446

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 38 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Names of Authors Andreae, C. E.: Reflections on Laoigh and Neighbouring Hills, 177 Arthur, A.: Some Memorable and Long Days among the Scottish Mountains during the last Fifty Years, 153, 352

Bannister, W. J.: Mr Pepys goes “Munroing,” 315 Bell, J. H. B.: Foreword to “Some Glenalmond Climbs,” 90 Scottish Climbing Clubs: A Survey, 252, 295, 452 Sgoran Dubh, No. 2 Buttress, 47 Some Variations and Discoveries on Lochnagar, 28 Buchan, John: The Knees of the Gods, 82 Burt, J. F. A.: The Scottish Mountains in Art, 172

C, J.: For a Scottish Mountaineer who is now a Prisoner of War, 89 Libyan Mirage, 171 Coats, W. L.: The Peeblesshire Hills, 217 Conacher, H. R. J.: Cairn on Ben Lawers, 191 Cunningham, R. W. B.: The Four Highest Cairngorms, 193 Curtis, G. C.: Arran, 1944, 238 Crags near Largs, 276 Golden Eagles in Arran, 415 New Climbs in Arran, 180 Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh Tairneilear Face, 276

Dunn, J. K. W.: British Mountaineering Council and the Association of Scottish Climbing Clubs, 422

Ewen, W. A.: Gargoyle Direct, Lochnagar, 426 Raeburn’s Gully, Lochnagar, 451

Fraser, D. J.: To the Cuillin, 286 Fraser, G. K.: Forestry in the Scottish Highlands, 384 Notes on the Forest History of the Highlands, 8 Frere, R. B.: Clach Bun Rudhtair, 355 Some New Routes in the Cairngorms, 349

Galloway, A. A.: , West Face, and , 111 Grant, H. W.: , Arran, No. 2 Chimney, 45

Harrison. A.: J. Logan Aikman, 446 Water Power Development in the Highlands, 197 Hendry, A. H.: A Holiday in the Early Forties, 246 Hodge. E. W.: Notes on the Northern Area, 322 Howe, D. W.: The Lovat Scouts, 358

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 39 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Humble, B. H.: A Survey of Mountain Accidents in Scotland,1925-45, 325. See also 279, 430 Coast and Hill Paths around the Firth of Clyde, 68

Inglis, R. M. G. : Climbing from an Indian Station, 361 The Fara and Meall Cruaidh, 113 The Moorfoot Hills, 74

Jack, J. S. M.: June in Skye, 308 Johnstone, G. S.: Beinn a’ Chliabhain and Creag Dubh, 350 Kellett, B. P.: Aonach Beag, North-East Ridge, 110 Ben Nevis, No. 2 Gully, 109 Recent Rock Climbs on Ben Nevis, 139 Record of Ben Nevis Climbs, 333, 408 Lomond Mountaineering Club Journal: C. Dearg, Ben Nevis, The Crack, 429 Coire Daimh, , 451 Crowberry Tower, East Face, 349

McIntyre, D. B.: Waterpipe Gully, 450 Mackenzie, W. M.: Bad Weather and Bivouacs, 287 The Snow and Ice Climbs of Glencoe, 365 McPherson, D.: Attempted ascent of Chombu, Sikkim, 356 MacRobert, H.: Cairn on Ben Lawers, 94 Murray, W. H.: New Routes in Glencoe, 397 The Evidence of Things not Seen, 281 The Great Gully of Garbh Bheinn, 379 The Last Day on Buachaille, 1

Neill, J.: An Teallach, 278 C. Dearg Mheadhonach, 278 Suilven, 278 Window Buttress, Sgurr Dearg, Skye, 278 Nettleton, M. B.: Meall Dubh, Glen Almond, 92 Stuchd an Lochain, 51 Nimlin, J. B.: Ben A’n, 134

Odell, N. E. : Creag Dallaig, Glen Shee, 193

Parker, J. A.: Roads and Tracks through the Northern Highlands, 211 Parry, C. W.: Days with Friends, 162 Scotland, 1926, 176 Peat, G. : Water Power Development in the Highlands, 197 Plackett, R. L.: Stob Coire nan Lochan, South Buttress, 44 Variations on Route 1, Carn Dearg, 51

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 40 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Pyatt, E. C.: Buachaille, D. Gully, 112 Creag Coire na Ciste, Centre Rib, 44 Rock Climbing around Dundonnell, 309

Ritchie, G. J.: Creag an Dubh Loch, North-West Buttress, 427 Sgoran Dubh, No. 1 Buttress, 43 Robertson, A. E.: General Wade’s Highland Roads, 81 Old Post Road, Poolewe to Kinlochewe, 51 Rucksack Club Journal: Rannoch Wall, Overhanging Crack Route, 110

Scott, D.: , Winter Climb, 428 Scott, J. F.: Indicator Wall, Ben Nevis, 46 Simmonds, B. N. : Neck Gully Exit from Crowberry Gully, 194 Slack, A.: Stack Polly West Rib, North Side, 111 “Sligachan Climbers’. Book”: Marsco, West-South-West Crag, 192 Smith, W. : North Wall Direct;.the Cobbler, South Peak, 349 Steven, C. R.: , South-East Buttress, 352 Climbing in the Course of Duty, 357 Inaccessible Pinnacle, 351

Thompson, G.: Creag an Dubh Loch, 277 Thompson, S.: Main Cuillin Ridge, with Blaven, 277 Townend, G. H. : Arran, 1944, 238 Crags near Largs, 276 Golden Eagles in Arran, 415 New Climbs in Arran, 180 Sgurr a’ Mhadhaidh, Tairneilear Face, 276 Unna, P. J. H. : Letter re Preservation of Scottish Mountain Land for the Nation, 261

Valentine, G. D.: At Sligachan – The Classic Age, 224 Our Eagles and their Prey, 53 Sligachan and some Early Visitors, 117 The First Spring, 245

Wigham, E. L.: The Castles, Face Climb, Skye (Direct), 450 Wilson, J. D. B.: The Spring Cuillin, 61

Young, J. McC.: Knoydart Hill-men, 78

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 41 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Subject Index (Heavy type has been used for titles of Articles.) (B. followed by page number refers to the Bulletin.) Accidents – A Survey of Mountain Accidents in Scotland, 1925-45, 325 Accidents on Scottish Hills from 1st March 1940 to 1st February 1945, 279 Mountain Accidents in Scotland, 1945 to 1947, 430 A’ Chir, Buttresses, 182, 241 An Teallach, photo, 309 Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill, East Ridge, 278 face of, diagram, 308 Aonach Beag, photo, 161 North-East Ridge, 110 Aonach Dubh,”B” Buttress, North Wall, 1st ascent, 407 Aonach Eagach, under winter conditons, 369 photo in winter, 365 Aonach Mor, photo, 161 South-East buttress, two routes, 352 Arran, Arran, 1944, 238 Golden Eagles in Arran, 415 New Climbs in Arran, 180 Association of Scottish Climbing Clubs, B.13 Atholl, Duke of, obituary, 48

Bad Weather and Bivouacs, 287 Baker, E. A., obituary, 39 Ballochbuie, photo, 1 Barn of Bynack, centre, 350 Bell, C. E., obituary, 103 Ben, Beinn – A’n, Ben A’n, 134 The Rent, 138 South face, diagram, 136 a’ Chliabhain, Haakon’s Highway, 1st ascent, 350 a’ Chreachain, photo, 72 Avon, Clach Bun Rudhtair, 355 Dearg, Ross, Coire Ghranda, B.18 Eunaich, winter climb in North-East Coire, 429 Fhada, photo, 443 Hope, West face, 111 Klibreck, Buttress, new climb, 112 Lawers, The Cairn on Ben Lawers, 94, 191

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 42 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Group at Cairn in 1878, photo, 94 Lui, Reflections on Laoigh and Neighbouring Hills, 177 Mhor (Loch Eck) from Puck’s Glen, photo, 68 Mhuinidh, climbs, B.17 Nevis, Recent Rock Climbs on Ben Nevis, 139 Record of Ben Nevis Climbs, 333, 408 Carn Dearg, North-West – Baird’s Buttress, 1st ascent, 145 Cousins’ Buttress, 148 direct, 408 Crack, 1st ascent, 429 Deep Chimney, 1st ascent, 409 Flake Chimney, 1st ascent, 141 Harrison’s Climb, direct start, 148 Lüscher’s Climb, 148 Macphee’s Climb, direct finish, 142 Nelstrop and Byrom’s Climb, 145. North Wall from Castle Ridge, diagram, 152 Route 1, variations, 51 Route 2, 1st ascent, 142 Route A, 1st ascent, 140 Route B, 1st ascent, 141 direct start, 408 photo, 139 Straight Chimney, 1st ascent, 409 Classification of all recorded climbs to April 1944, 149 Comb, Pigott’s Chimney, 148 Tower Face Route, 143 Creag Coire na Ciste, Central Rib, 1st ascent, 44 Final Tower, 1st ascent, 143 South Gully, 412 Gardyloo Buttress, 333 Crack in Tower Face, 336 Green Gully, lower half, 412 Gullies, No. 2, 1st summer ascent, 109 No. 2. Gully Buttress, upper half, 413 No. 3 Gully Buttress, 412 Thompson’s Route, 1st ascent, 146 No. 5 Gully, The Pitch, 410 No. 5 Gully Buttress, Easy Chimney, 410 Minus Two Buttress, left-hand route, 338 right-hand route, 340 Moonlight Gully Buttress, diagonal route, 146 right-hand chimney, 142

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 43 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

North-East Buttress, Bayonet Route Direct, 145 Indicator Wall Variation, 145 Route 1, 1st ascent, 46 Orion Face, Beta Route with direct finish to the Basin, 338 Long Climb, B.17 Upper Traverse, 1st ascent, 145 photo, 338 Observatory Buttress, direct finish, 146 Observatory Ridge, direct route, 1st ascent, 147 left-hand route, 1st ascent, 147 Newbigging’s Route, left-hand variation start, 147 Newbigging’s Route, right-hand variation start, 147 West face, variation finishes – Crack and Groove, 337 Easy Way, 337 Rubicon Wall, alternative finish, 149 Slav route, 338 South Trident Buttress – Bottom Tier, 1943 Route, 143 Bottom Tier, 1944 Route, 411 Middle Tier, Groove Climb, 1st ascent, 143 Slab Climb, 411 Tower Ridge, Broad Gully Route, 1st ascent, 144 Douglas Boulder, North-West face, left-hand chimney, 414 right-hand chimney, 413 Great Tower, Rotten Chimney, 1st ascent, 146 Ogilvy’s Route, 1st ascent, 146 Italian Climb, 1st ascent, 144 Lower East Wall Route, 1st ascent, 145 Secondary, Vanishing Gully, 1944 Route, 414 1931 Route, variation start, 144 Nuis, Anvil Gully, 1st ascent, 421 A face route, 181 Tarsuinn, Bhradain Face, diagram, 240 Hanging Gully, 1st ascent, 239 Meadow Climb, 1st ascent, 239 No. 2 Chimney, 1st ascent, 45 Bidean, Aonach Dubh, “B.” Buttress, North Wall, 407 Church Door Buttress, 112 Climbs under winter conditions, 367, 369, 376 Coire an Gabhail, Echo Crag, 1st ascent, 406 Lost Buttress, 1st ascent, 405 Upper Gorge of Allt , 1st ascent, 405 photo, from Buachaille, 281 Stob Coire nam Beith, No. 5 Buttress, 1st ascent, 403

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 44 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

No. 6 Buttress, 1st ascent, 404 Stob Coire nan Lochan, South Buttress, 1st ascent, 44 Twisting Gully, 1st ascent, 404 view of, from Aonach Eagach, 378 Bivouacs, Bad Weather and Bivouacs, 287 British Glaciological Society, 354 British Mountaineering Council and the Association of Scottish Climbing Clubs, 422 Brown, R. A., obituary and photo, 340, 341 Buachaille Etive Mor, The Evidence of Things not Seen, 281 Last Day on Buachaille, 1 Central Buttress North-East Crack, 1st ascent, 401 Gangway, 1st ascent, 402 Lady’s Gully true right fork, 1st ascent, 402 Waterslide Wall, 1st ascent, 402 Climbs under winter conditions, 371 Crowberry Gully, winter ascent, 1 Neck Gully exit from, 1st ascent, 194 Crowberry Ridge, Fracture Route, 1st ascent, 400 Grooved Arete, 1st ascent, 400 Crowberry Tower, East face, 1st ascent, 349 D Gully, 1st direct through ascent, 112 Great Gully Buttress, 1st ascent 397 New Routes, 1947, in Brief, B.16 North Buttress, East Wall, Bottleneck Chimney, 1st ascent, 398 Crow’s Nest Crack, 1st ascent, 399 Hangman’s Crack, 1st ascent, 398 Shattered Crack, 1st ascent, 399 North face, photo, 4 Rannoch Wall, Autumn Slab, 1st ascent, 401 Curving Groove, 1st ascent, 400 Juniper Groove, 1st ascent, 400 Overhanging Crack Route,1st ascent, 110

Cairngorms, four highest, 193 new routes in the Cairngorms, 349 six highest climbed in a day, 452 Cairn Lochan, Savage Slit, 1st ascent, 349 Caisteal Abhail, 1st ascents – Buttress 1, Avalanche Gully, 418 Portcullis Buttress, lower rocks, 417 V Gully, 419 Buttress 2, Rift, 419 Buttress 3, 419 Buttress 6, Hellfire Crack, 420

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 45 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Rampart, 420 Campbell, J., of Sligachan, 104 Carn a’ Claise, B.17 Carn Dearg Mheadhonach, East Buttress, 278 Carn Elrick, photo, 154 Ceum na Caillich, Broomstick Ridge, 243, 352, 421 Chills, 292 Chombu, Sikkim, photo, 340 Cioch na h-Oighe, Midnight Ridge, 243 Twilight Slabs, 244 Cir Mhor, North-East face, 186, 245 photo, 180 Rosa Pinnacle, 112 Keyhole Crack, 421 South face, Caliban’s Creep, 184 photo, 243 Cubic Route, 1st ascent, 242 diagram, 242 East Wall Climb, 185 Fourth Wall, 1st ascent, 416 Green Gully, 1st ascent, 417 Prospero’s Peril, 186, 243 South Ridge, 241 Souwester Slabs, 242 Clapperton, D. A., obituary, 38 Cluanie Inn.(closed), Club Group, Easter 1939, 160 Clyde, Coast and Hill Paths around the Firth of Clyde, 68 Cobbler, South Peak North Wall Direct, 1st ascent, 349 Coire na Creiche, photo, 64 Collie, J. Norman, obituary and photo, 95 Creag an Dubh Loch, Labyrinth, 32, 277 North-West Buttress and line diagram, 427-428, B.17 Creag Dallaig, Glen Shee, climbs, 193 Creag Dubh (Arran) Fifteen Minute Ridge, 351 Cruach Ardrain, photo, 270 Cuillins, Main Ridge, with Blaven, 277 The Spring Cuillin, 61 To the Cuillin, verses, 286

Days with Friends, 162 Druim Shionnaich, Silver Slab Climb, 277 Dundonnell, Rock Climbing around Dundonnell, 309

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 46 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Eagles, Our Eagles and their Prey, 53 Evidence of Things not Seen, 281 Exhaustion, 293

Fara, The, as a view-point, 113 Forest, Forestry in the Scottish Highlands, 384 Notes on the Forest History of the Highlands, 8 Fraser, Wm. obituary, 39 Frostbite, 292

Gairich, view of, 210 Garbh Bheinn, Ardgour, The Great Gully of Garbh Bheinn, 379 photo, 379 Gardner, Hugh, obituary, 102 Glen Affric, Chisholm’s Pass, photo, 201 Glen Almond, Some Glen Almond Climbs, 90 Meall Dubh, 92 Glen Cannich, 16 Glen Coe, New Routes in Glencoe, 397 The Snow and Ice Climbs of Glencoe, 365 classification of main climbs under winter conditions, 379 Glen Derry, photo, 17 Glen Orchy, Coire Daimh, 451 Goatfell, Rosa Slabs, 421 Golden Eagle, photo, 56 Guides, professional, in Britain, 425

Hillhouse, P. A., obituary, 101 Hird, N. L., obituary, 435 Holiday in the Early Forties, 246 Hunter, M. V., obituary, 439

Inverinate, panorama from, 352

June in Skye, verses, 308 Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland, 116, 196, 280, 362, B.11, 15 Hut at Steall, B.12

Kingshouse, New Year Meet 1942, 49 Kinlochewe-Poolewe track, 51 Knees of the Gods, 82 Knoydart Hill-men, 78 Knoydart, panorama over, photo, 228

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 47 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Lagangarbh, photo, 397 Largs, The Crags near Largs, 276 Lawson, W., obituary, 342 Lester, W. R., obituary, 434, photo, 433 Liathach, new climb on, B.17 Libyan Mirage, poem, 171 Loch Broom to Bonar Bridge, 451 and the Fannichs, photo, 181 Loch Coruisk, photo, 117 Loch Goil, photo, 72 Loch Lubnaig, photo, 389 Loch Quoich and Gairich, photo, 210 Loch Voil and Ben Vorlich, photo, 396 Lochnagar, Variations and Discoveries on Lochnagar, 28 cliffs, photo, 28 climbs on, 29-32 Creag an Dubh Loch, 277 North-West Buttress, and line diagram, 427-428, B.17 Raeburn’s Gully 451 view of, photo, 1 West Buttress Gargoyle Direct, and line diagram, 426-427 Luib, New Year Meet, 1942, 48

Mackenzie, John (guide), photo, 197 Macrae, Mrs, of Glenbrittle, 42 Marsco, West-South-West crag, 1st ascent, 192 Meall Dubh, Glen Almond, The Pinnacle, photo, 94 Meets, see Scottish Mountaineering Club Memorable and Long Days among the Scottish Mountains, 153, 352 Moorfoot Hills, The, 74 Mountain Accidents, 279, 325, 430

Napier, R. G., obituary, 435 Nelson, W., obituary, 438 Northern Highlands, Notes on the Northern Area, 322

Oak-birch, near Ben Venue, photo, 24

Parker, J. A., obituary and photo, 432 Peeblesshire Hills, 217 Pepys goes “Munroing,” and two illustrations, 315 Pilkington, L., obituary, 41 Pine Forest, photo, 1, 16 Poolewe-Kinlochewe Track, 51

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 48 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Pools of Dee, photo, 155 Preservation of Scottish Mountain Land for the Nation, 261

Reid, W. A., obituary, 190 Reflections on Laoigh and Neighbouring Hills, 177 Reviews – Brenva (Graham Brown), 275 British Mountaineers (Smythe), 114 British Mountain Heritage (Gardner), 114 Climbing in Britain (Barford), 454 Highland Holiday (Poucher), 275 In the Rain and the Sun (Amery), 455 Mountain Holidays (Smith), 455 Mountain Photography.(Milner), 455 Mountain Vision (Smythe), 52 On Scottish Hills (Humble), 454 Over Welsh Hills (Smythe), 52 Scotland through the Lens (Poucher), 195 Songs of Skye (Humble), 275 Upon that Mountain (Shipton), 195 Roads and Tracks through the Northern Highlands, 211 Roping Down, photo, 339 Rothiemurchus Birches, photo, 388 Roughburn Dam, Loch Laggan, photo, 200

Salisbury Crags, B.17 Scotland, 1926, poem, 176 Scottish Climbing Clubs: A Survey – Pre-History, 252 History, 1886-1914 – Aberdeen andNorth-East Scotland, 306 Cairngorm Club (1887), 258 District Clubs, 304 Dundee Rambling Club (1886), 255 Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland (1925), 295 Ladies’ Scottish Climbing Club (1908), 260 Old Scottish Mountain Clubs, 307 Scottish Mountaineering Club (1889), 259 Scottish University Clubs, 297, 452 Representatives’ Meeting, 353 Younger Glasgow Clubs, 300 Scottish Mountaineer who is a Prisoner of War, For a, 89 Scottish Mountaineering Club – Abroad, 7, 356, 453

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 49 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

Club Room Meetings, 346, B.9, 10, 14 District Reports, B.14, 15 Guide Books, 53, 18 Huts, C.I.C., B.6 Lagangarbh, B.7 photo, 397 Meetings, Annual General,and Dinners (1941), 50; (1942), 106; (1943), 188; (1944), 273; (1945), 345; (1946), 440, B.2 Meets – Crianlarich, 105, 187, 270, 343 Dalwhinnie, 440 Glencoe, 271 Joint Meet with the Alpine Club, 445 , 108 Kingshouse, 49 Kintail, 443 Loch Awe, 272 Luib, 48 Newtonmore, 442 Tyndrum, 49 Office-bearers. See Annual General Meeting for Year Honorary President, 189 Aikman, J. Logan, Hon. Secretary, 1935-46, 446 Qualifications for membership, B.19 War records of members, 108, 274, 446 Scottish Mountains in Art, 172 Sgoran Dubh, No. 1 Buttress, 43 No. 2 Buttress, 47 No. 3 Buttress, Cripple’s Cleft, 1st ascent, 350 Sgurr, Sgor – Alasdair, former name of, 352 massif, photo, 132 sea and islands from, photo, 53 Dearg, Inaccessible Pinnacle Variation, 351 roping down, photo, 339 Window Buttress, 278 Dubh from Sgurr Sgumain, photo, 65 Fheadain, Waterpipe Gully, 450 photo, 64 a’Mhadaidh (Tairneilear face) Variation, 276 Mhic Coinnich, photo, 235 na Caorach, Cioch, B.17 nam Fiannaidh, West Gully Clachaig, 1st ascent, 406 Sligachan and Some EarlyVisitors, 117

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 50 Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 Index

The Classic Age, 224 in 1873, photo from drawing. 86 Smith, Sir G. A., obituary, 100 Snow Shelters, diagrams, 290 Solly, G. A., obituary and photo, 98 Spring, The First, verses, 245 Sron na Ciche, Eastern Gully, 277 photo, 234 Stack Polly, West Rib, North side, 1st ascent, 111 Stob Coire nam Beith, winter climbs, 376 No. 5 Buttress, 1st ascent, 403 No. 6 Buttress, 404 Stob Coire nan Lochan,winter climbs, 367 photo, 378 Twisting Gully, 404 Stob Ghabhar, snow climb, photo, 48 Strath na Sheallag, photo, 211 Stuchd an Lochain, 51 Suilven, 278 Thomson, G., obituary, 35 Thormaid agus Mhic Coinnich, photo, 197 Tyndrum, Lead Mines, climbs at, B.17 Valentine, G. D., obituary, 436 Wade’s Highland Roads, 81 War, 1939-45, The – The S. M. C. and the War, 446 Members’ records, 108, 274, 446 Water Power Development in the Highlands, 197 List of Projects, 209 The Legal Aspect, 205 Wedderburn, E. A. M., obituary and photo, 264 Williamson, A. M. M., obituary, 263

Volume 23 [XXIII; Nos. 133-138] 1942–1947 51 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Contents

Volume 24 (1948-1951) Edited by J. H. B. Bell CONTENTS

ARTICLES Mountain Howffs. By John B. Nimlin 1 A Camp on Rum. By Tom Weir 9 Rights of Way. By G. D. Cheyne 14 Winter Days on Bidean nam Bian. By D. B. M’Intyre 21 Mountain Memories. By Rev. A. E. Robertson . . . 25, 81 The Approach Route to Beauty. By W. H. Murray . 32 Buachaille Etive Revisited. By T. Evershed Thomson 39 The Terrible Modern Horrors of Glencoe. By D. Myles 41 The Mountains of Rum. By J. G. Parish 42 A Note on the Climbing in Harris. By E. C. W. Rudge 52 Crossing. By Tom Weir 86 Camping and Climbing in Lewis and Harris. By R. G. Folkard 9ff Highland Patrol. By E. W. Hodge 105 Mountain Casualties. By D. G. Duff Ill Munro’s Tables. By John Dow and E. C. Thomson . 118. On Editing the “ Southern Highlands “ Guide. By J. D. B. Wilson 122 Some New Climbs in the North-West. By J. H. B. Bell 127 “The Songs of Craig and Ben.” By Arthur Geddes 142 Vignettes of Earlier Climbers. By Lord Mackay 169 Snow on the Cuillin. By Tom Weir 181 Easter 1947 on Ben Nevis. By Michael Ward 185 Meets, 1897-1950. By W. N. Ling 190 Chancellor Gully. By Campbell R. Steven 194 Deep Gash Gully. By Hamish G. Nicol 199 The Black Spout Pinnacle of Lochnagar. By William D. Brooker 202 The Growth of the S.M.C. By E. C. Thomson 206 The View from the C.I.C. Hut. By R. M. G. Inglis 214 National Parks in Scotland. By J. K. W. Dunn 216 National Parks in Scotland. By J. G. Osborne 312 Food. By Pat Bell 221 A Climbing’ Hazard. By Ian W. Craig 227 The Scottish Himalayan Expedition. By W. H. Murray 265 Mountains of Central Africa. By A. L. Cram 256, 278 Circumpolar Ice – The South Orkneys. By D. H. Mating 280 Mountaineering in Greenland. By H. I. Drever 285 Climbing on Upernivik Island. By T. J. Ransley 287 The First Season in the Alps. By Alex. Harrison 288

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 52 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Contents

Rock Climbing in the Northern Highlands. By Frank Cunningham 295 Hill Crossing to Harris. By J. McCallum Young 308 Mountain Bird-Watching. By George Waterston. 316 The Shelter Stone of Loch Avon. By Richard Brown 321

ILLUSTRATIONS – A. Ernest Maylard 1 A Snow Howff 2 Cobbler View 7 Summit of Trallval 8 Aonach air Chrith 26 The Saddle from Upper Bridge of Shiel 31 The Terrible Modern Horrors of Glencoe, 1946 41 Isle of Rum: Sgurr nan Gillean 48 Climbs on Ruinsval. Sketch 49 R. A. Robertson 64 Liathach: Mullach an Rathain 73 The East End of Loch Affric 81 Cliffs of the Clo Mor, Sutherland 88 Balnakeil Bay and the Rocks of Faraid Head 96 Strone Ulladale, Harris 104 Fan Gully Buttress, Ben Ime 123 The Lawers Range from the Road to Lochs 126 Cliffs of , Ross 130 Looking North from Sgurr Thearlaich 135 137 In Gardyloo Gully, Ben Nevis 145 New Year Morning 1949 from the summit of Beinn Ghlas, Lawers 152 The Buachaille 169 The Northern Cuillin, from Blaven 176 Descent of Knight’s Peak, Sgurr nan Gillean 184 Climbing the Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar 193 The Black Spout Pinnacle, Lochnagar. Sketch 205 The View from the C.I. C. Hut. Sketch 215 Beinn na Seilg, . Sketch 230 Loch Etchachan 243 Loch Callater 246 Cir Mhor 249 New Year Meet, 1950, Corrie 250 Bidean nam Bian, from Callert 255 The Panch Chuli 265 Route followed by the Scottish Himalayan Expedition, 1950. Sketch 267 Camp 3, North Face, Bethartoli Himal 270 North Ridge of Uja Tirche 272

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 53 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Contents

Uja Tirche, North Ridge 275 The Scottish Himalayan Expedition 1950 278 Mullach an Rathain, Liathach 297 Mullach an Rathain, from Am Fasarinen. Sketch . 298 Beinn Eighe, Triple Buttress, Coire Mhic Fhearchair 299 Gorm Loch Mor and Ben Lair 302 Beinn Airidh Charr. Sketch 302 Suilven, Caisteal Liath 304 Stac Polly. Sketch 305 Poldubh Climbs, Glen Nevis. Sketch 323 Loch Etive and Ben Nevis from the Taynuilt Peak, Cruachan 330 William Garden 335

IN MEMORIAM – A. Ernest Maylard (A.E. Robertson) 61 R. A. Robertson (Euan B. Robertson) 63 Murdo MacDonald (G.T. Glover) 65 Jack MacRobert (J.S.M. Jack) 66 F. O. Bower (J.H.B. Bell) 146 James C. Thomson (E.C. Thomson) 147 Henry E. G. Tyndale (W.N. Ling) 149 Sir Iain Colquhoun, mention 149 A. D. Smith, mention 149 J. E. Mclntyre, mention 149 Edward J. McCandlish (J.H.B. Bell) 240 George Duncan (D.P. Levack) 240 Lord Moncrieff (A.E. Robertson) 242 Joseph M. Davidson (W.N. Ling) 243 J. Rooke Corbett (R.M.G. Inglis) 244 Alan Johnson, JMCS (T.J. Ransley) 244 William Garden (D.P. Levack) 335 Percy J. H. Unna (W.N. Ling) 338 Alastair C. McLaren (L.G. Shadbolt) 339 A. J. Paton (A. Harrison), 341 W. A. Mounsey (J.H.B. Bell), 342 Edred M. Corner (J.H.B. Bell), 342 E. W. Green (J.H.B. Bell), 342 J. M. S. Roberts, mention 342

MOUNTAIN ACCIDENTS 78, 159, 259, 352

NEW CLIMBS 55, 133, 229, 323

NOTES AND EXCURSIONS 75, 160, 260, 354

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD 71, 155, 252, 348

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 54 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Contents

BOOKS AND JOURNALS 79, 164, 261, 356

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 67, 150, 246, 342

J.M.C.S 166, 263, 358

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 55 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Index

INDEX Accidents, 78, 159, 259, 352 A’Chailleach, Glencoe, South-East Gully, 332 A’Chioch, Applecross, 296 A’Mhaighdean, Pillar Buttress, 302 Africa, Mountains of Central, 256, 278 Allival, Rum, new climbs, 43 Alps, the first season in, 288 An Teallach, new routes, 303 Aonach air Chrith, photo, 26 Approach Route to Beauty, 32 Arrochar, new climbs, 140 Ashval, Rum, new climbs, 47 Askival, Rum, Atlantic Ridge, 133 new climbs, 44, 133

Balnakeil Bay, and Faraid Head, photo, 96 Beinn, Ben – A’an , 123 Airidh Charr, sketch of routes, 302 Alder, Central Gully, winter climbs, 76 Cottage, 355 Avon, song of, with music, 144 Bhan, Applecross, 296 a’ Chlaidheimh, 302 Cruachan, view fr. Taynuilt Peak, photo, 330 Damph, 297 Dearg Mhor, new route, 303 Dearg, Ross, Ghrannda Slabs, 127, 308 cliffs, photo, 130 Eighe, new routes on, diagram, 299 Fhada, Glencoe. See Bidean Fhada, Kintail, Needle’s Eye Buttress, 235 Ghlas, Lawers, view from, photo,. 152 Ime, Fan Gully Buttress, photo, 123 Lair, 302 Lawers Range from Lochs Road, photo, 126 Upland shieling settlement, 161 a’ Mhuinidh, new routes, 128, 129, 301 Nevis, Easter 1947 on Ben Nevis, 185 Carn Dearg North-West, Caterpillar Crawl, 238 Harrison’s Climb, 238 Carn Dearg South-West, climbs, 56, 323 Comb Gully, 188 Gardyloo Gully, in, photo, 145

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 56 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Index

Gargoyle Wall, 329 Minus 2 Gully, 329 No. 2 Gully Buttress, 55 Raeburn’s Arete, Macphee’s variation, 237 Raeburn’s Buttress, the Crack, 237 Rubicon Wall, 76 Tower Cleft, 238 na Seilg, Ardnamurchan, climbs on, 229 Starav, North Corrie, 261 Tarsuinn, Arran, Swildon’s Gully, 141 Wyvis, Coire Mor, route in, 307 Bidean nam Bian, Winter Days on Bidean, 21 Aonach Dubh, East Face, 354 F ar Eastern Buttress, 139 Beinn Fhada, North-West Face, new climbs, 234 Sron na Lairig, 333 Gearr Aonach, chimney and face, 234 new climbs, 139, 354 photo, 255 Stob Coire nam Beith, winter route, 331 Stob Coire nan Lochan, Boomerang Gully and West Face, 139 Dorsal Arete, 333 S.C. Gully, 21-24 Bird Watching, Mountain, 316 Bonaidh Donn, Kinlochewe, new climbs, 129 Bower, F. O., obituary, 146 Buachaille, Buachaille Etive Revisited, 39 Blaeberry Rib, 331 photo, 169 Stob Coire Altruim, Central Couloir, first winter ascent, 330 Buachaille Beag, four gullies on, 331

Cairngorms, notes on, 77 Cairn o’ Claise, Craig Herrich, 76 Carn Mairg, 125 Casualties, Mountain, 111 Chancellor Gully, Glencoe, first asc, 194, 354 Circumpolar Ice, South Orkneys, 280 Mountaineering in Greenland, 285 Climbing on Upernivik Island, 287 Cir Mhor, Caliban’s Creep, variation, 141 sketch, 249 Clachaig Gully, winter ascent, 77 Clark, Dr W. Inglis, age, 355

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 57 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Index

Climbing Hazard, 227 , Harris, 52 Clo Mor, Sutherland, cliffs, photo, 88 Cobbler, S. Peak, new climbs, 141 Colquhoun, Sir Iain, obituary, 149 Corbett, J. Rooke, obituary, 244 Corner, E. M., obituary, 342 Creag an Dubh Loch, Hanging Garden, 136 Labyrinth, 354 Creag an Fhir Shaighde, L. Callater, Central Slabs Cleft, 138 Cuillin, Snow on the, 181 .. main ridge traverse, 354 Northern, from Blaven, photo, 176

Davidson, J. M., obituary, 243 Deep Gash Gully, Skye, 199 Duncan, Geo., obituary, 240

First Aid, notes on, 114 , Creag Dionard, new route, 307 Food, 221 , 297

Garbh Bheinn, ardgour, Coire Beag and Mor, 140 North Face, 260 Garden, Wm., obituary, and photo, 335 Gillon, Stair A., vignette, 174 Glencoe and Ardgour Guide, corrections, 260 Glencoe, Terrible Modern Horrors of, verses and cartoon, 41 Glen Nevis Gullies, 56 Glen Ulladale, possible climbs, 100 Goatfell, Am Binnein, the Slabs, 236 Rosa Slabs, 237, Stachach Buttress, 236 Green, E. W., obituary, 342 Growth of the S.M.C., 206 Gruinard Bay, climbs round, 132

Harris, Climbing in Harris, 52,96 Hill Crossing to Harris, 308 Highland Patrol, 105 Himalayas, The Scottish Himalayan Expedition 1950, 265 Bethartoli Himal, camp, photo, 270 Route map of, 267

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 58 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Index

Panch Chuli, photo, 265 party, photo, 278 Uja Tirche, North Ridge, photos, 272, 275 Howffs, Mountain, 1 photos, 2, 7 Husival Mor, North-East Face, possible climbs, 101

Inveroran Hut, 163

Johnson, Alan, obituary, 244 J.M.C.S., 166, 257, 263, 358

Lewis and Harris, Camping and Climbing in, 96 Liathach, Coire na Caime, Buttress, climb, 130 P. C. Butt, 298 Mullach an Rathain, photo, 73, 297 sketch of, from An Fasarinen, 298 Loch Affric, East end, photo, 81 Callater, looking east, photo, 246 Etchachan, photo, 243 Muick, photo, 137 Gorm Mor and Ben Lair, photo, 302 Lochnagar, The Black Spout Pinnacle, 202 Black Spout Pinnacle, diagram, 205 Creag an Dubh Loch, Labyrinth, 354 Eagle Ridge, photo, 193 Giant’s Head Chimney, 232 Parallel Buttress, direct start, 233 Lui Beg Bridge, 160

McCandlish, E. J., obituary, 240 McDonald, Murdo (Keeper), obituary, 65 Mclntyre, J. E., obituary, 149 McLaren, A. C, obituary, 339 MacRobert, Jack, obituary, 66 Maylard, A. E., obituary, and photo, 1, 61 vignette, 172 Mealisval, Harris, climbs, 104 Meets. 1897-1950, reminiscences of, 190 Moncrieff, Lord, obituary, 242 Mounsey, W. A., obituary, 342 Mountain Memories, 25, 81 Mountains of Central Africa, 256, 278 Munros and Tops, 75, 77, 260, 355

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 59 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Index

Munro’s Tables, two contrasting views, 118

Naismith, W. W., vignette, 170 National Parks in Scotland, 216, 312 North-West, New Climbs in, 127 Northern Highlands, Rock Climbing in, 239, 295

Ossian’s Cave, Glencoe, 76

Parker, J. A., Memorial Bridge, 80, 160 Paton, A. J., obituary, 341 Polldubh Crags, climbs on, and sketch, 56, 323

Raeburn, Harold, vignette, 174 Rescue Parties, organisation and conduct, 116 Reviews, 79, 164, 261, 356 Rights of Way, 14 Roberts, J. M. S., obituary, 342 Robertson, R. A., obituary and photo, 63 Rock-climbing classification, 162 Ruinsval, Rum, new climbs, 48, 327 diagram, 49 Rum, A Camp on Rum, 9 The Mountains of Rum, 42

Saddle, from upper Bridge of Shiel, photo, 31 Scottish Himalayan Expedition, 1950, 265 map of route, 267 Scottish Mountaineering Club – The Growth of the S.M.C., 206 Abroad, 71, 155, 252, 348 Annual Meeting and Dinner, 67, 155, 251, 342 Genealogical Tree, 207 Meets, 67, 150, 246, 343 photo, Arran, New Year, 1950, 250 Scottish Rights of Way Society, 17 Sgor, Sgurr – Alasdair, Commando Crack, 325 former name, 76 na Caorach, Applecross, Cioch, 131, 296 Coire Lochain, Skye, Shelf Route, 231 Dearg, S. Buttress, Central Route, 326 an Fhidleir, new route, 304

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 60 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Index

Fhuaran, gully on North face, 261 nan Gillean, Rum, photo, 48 nan Gillean, Knight’s Pk., on, photo, 184 Third Pinnacle, 163, 354 view of, from Blaven, photo, 176 a’ Ghreadaidh, Coruisk Buttress, 231 a’ Mhadaidh, Foxes Folly, 326 Mhic Coinnich, Jeffrey’s Dyke, 135 Ruadh, Academy Ridge, 296 Thearlaich, looking North from, photo, 135 na h-Uamha, South-West face, 230 na h-Ulaidh, North Gully, 77 Red Gully, 233 Sgoran Dubh, new climbs, 60, 137, 334 Rose Ridge, identification, 138 Shelter Stone of Loch Avon, 321 , new routes, 301 Smith, A. D., obituary, 149 Snow on the Cuillin, 181 “Songs of Craig and Ben,” 142 “Southern Highlands” Guide, Editing, 122 Sron na Ciche, new routes, 59, 136, 231, 326 Coire a’ Ghrunnda, White Slab Route, 354 Stac Polly, new routes and diag., 305 Strone Scourst, Harris, 52 Strone Ulladale, Harris, climbs on, 53, 98 photo, 104 Suilven, new routes, 306 photo, 304 Sutherland Crossing, 86

Tamanaisval, Harris, climbs on, 103 Teinnasval, Harris, climbs on, 101 Thearlaich Dubh Gap, new climb, 327 Thomson, Gilbert, vignette, 173 Thomson, J. C, obituary, 147 Trallval, Rum, new climbs, 46, 133, 328 summit, photo, 8 Trespass in Scotland, 18 Tyndale, H. E. G., obituary, 149

Uig Hills, Harris, 101 Unna, P. J. H., obituary, 338, 346 View from the C.I.C. Hut, 214

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 61 Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 Index

Vignettes of Earlier Climbers, 169

Wind Slab, note on, 75 Winter Ascents, first, claims to, 163

Young, Geoffrey W., vignette, 177

Volume 24 [XXIV; Nos. 139-142] 1948–1951 62 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Contents

Volume 25 (1952-1955) Edited by J. H. B. Bell CONTENTS

ARTICLES King George VI 1 The Forgotten Corrie. By C. M. Dixon 2 New Year Howffs. By B. H. Humble 14 Alone on Ben More, Mull. By lan W. Craig 19 Norwegian Mountains: Storen in Mist. By J. Stewart Orr 21 Lofoten. By Tom Weir 26 Stedtind. By Richard A. Brown 29 Return. (Verse) By Wilfred Noyce 34 New Ways on Beinn Lair 35 List of Scottish Mountains 2,500 Feet and under 3,000 Feet in Height. By J. Rooke Corbett 45, 136 Freedom of the Hills. (Verse) By D. J. Fraser 52 The Corrour Tragedy 53 I Love the Hills. (Verse)By J. S. M. Jack 76 Winter Climbing on Lochnagar and the Cairngorms. By Wm. D. Brooker 101 Parallel Gully “ B,” Lochnagar. By Tom Patey 115 A Far Cry to Lochow. By J. F. A. Burt 120 A Cairngorm Odyssey. By R. B. Frere 124 Some Observations on “Munro’s Tables.” By R. M. Gall Inglis 132 Third on the Rope. By G. S. Ritchie 137 Back Bearings on Merrick. By I. W. Craig 142 Looking after your Climbing Boots. By Fred Lang 146 The Meteorology of the Scottish Mountains. By K. K. Hunter 193 Nepal Himalaya, 1952. By Tom Weir 214 Beinn a’ Bhaile. By R. W. MacLennan 221 Climbing Munros makes one Fit. By P. L. J. Heron 223 Notes on Climbing in Harris. By G. Scott Johnstone 225 The Kingdom of the Snow. (Verse.) By D. J. Fraser 254 On Ancient Hills. (Verse) By Jeff Mason 254 Mountain Lover. (Verse) By K. G. P. Hendrie 275 Photography for Mountaineers. By D. J. Fraser 293 The Forgotten Corrie Again. By C. M. Dixon 307 Attempt on . By Harold Raeburn 315 First Aid and Mountain Rescue. By A. I. L. Maitland 327 On Disappointing Summers. By Professor G. Manley 334 We Sail Again. By E. W. Hodge 342 Opening of the Ling Hut 368

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 63 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Contents

Epistle to Tom Mackinnon. (Verse) By Boab 391

ILLUSTRATIONS— Crack of Dawn, Sgurr Mhic Coinnich 1 The Cliffs of Coireachan Ruadha. Sketch 5 Fluted Buttress, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich S Beinn Airidh a’ Charr 8 Rulten, Lofoten 32 Fhada Cliffs, Beinn Lair. Sketch 37 Fionn Cliff, Beinn Lair. Photos and Sketch 41 A’ Mhaighdean, Pillar Buttress. Sketch 63 The Ben Lui Range from above Inversnaid 73 Beinn Dubhcraig 80 Loch Laggan and Creag Meaghaidh 101 Lochnagar in Winter 108 Shadow Buttress “ A,” Lochnagar 118 Parallel Gully “ B,” Lochnagar (lower half) 118 Slopes of 123 Rothiemurchus Forest, Lower Glen Einich 125 Peaks from An Stac 132 Sgorr na Caorach, Cioch, North Wall Route 149 Creag an Dubh Loch, North-West Gully149 Creag an Dubh Loch: Central Gully, False Gully, North-West Gully 156 Garbh-Bheinn Ardgour, S. Wall of Great Ridge 156 Lochan na h’Earba, Creag a’ Chuir 175 Newtonmore Meet, 1953 178 Mackinnon’s Peak, Nepal Himalaya 193 Brocken Spectre, Liathach 200 The 20,000-foot Peak of South Rolwaling 209 Nepal Himalaya. Sketch Map 215 Gauri Sankar 216 New Year on Stob Ghabhar 233 Chimney Arete, Cobbler, North Peak 240 Cluanie Once More! 250 Climbing Friends—Ling and Glover 255 The Saddle 264 On Beinn Laoigh 273 The Summit of Stuc a’ Chroin 293 On the Carn Mor Dearg Arete 300 The Cliffs of Bealach Buttress 309 The Routes of Bealach Buttress. Two Sketches and Key 310, 311 Ushba from the South-west 316 Ushba. Sketch Map 320 Summit of North Rona 341

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 64 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Contents

Whiten Head, Sutherland 341 The Clam, Lochnagar 348 Douglas Gully, Lochnagar, the 200-foot Upper Wall 348 A’ Cheir Gorm, Foinaven 357 Harry MacRobert 364 Cairngorms Nature Reserve, Map of 388

IN MEMORIAM— Geo. P. Baker 71 Robt. S. Low 73 Jas. E. McLaren 74 Lord Macmillan 169 Louis St Clair Bartholomew 170 John C. James and Crichton Allan (J.M.C.S.) 172 William N. Ling 255 George T. Glover 257 Harrison Barrow 259 Hugh J. Craig 260 James McCoss 261 J. J. St Clair 262 Herbert Tomkinson; Cecil E. E. Riley; J. Neil Orr; John E. Blow; C. G. Andrews 262 Harry MacRobert 364 Walter Barrow 366 Stair A. Gillon 367 J. Walter Buchan ; J. C. Maclaurin ; R. T. Sellar 368

MOUNTAIN ACCIDENTS 97, 190, 286, 385

NEW CLIMBS 58, 147, 230, 347

NOTES AND EXCURSIONS 98, 190, 287, 387

S.M.C AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD 88, 184, 276, 378

BOOKS AND JOURNALS 99, 191, 291, 390

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 77, 173, 263, 369

J.M.C.S 85, 181, 272, 375

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 65 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Index

INDEX Accidents, 97, 190, 286, 385 Alone on Ben More, Mull, 19 A’ Mhaighdean, new climbs, 63, 64 An Caisteal, Coolin, North Buttress, 239 Andrews, C. G., obituary, 202 Aonach Bcag, new climbs, 100 Ardgour, Garbh Bheinn, new climbs, 107, 358 South Wall, photo, 150 Ardgour, Sron a’ Garbh Coire Bhig, climbs on, 358

Back Bearings on Merrick, 142 Baker, Geo. P., obituary, 71 Barra, Muldoanich, 345 Barrow, H., obituary, 259 Barrow, W., obituary, 360 Bartholomew, L. St C, obituary, 170 Beinn Airidh a’ Charr, climbs on, 65 photo, 8 Beinn Arcuil, South Rib, 60 Beinn a’ Bhaile, 221 Beinn Bhan, Applecross, A’ Chioch, North Gully, 231 Beinn Bhrotain, Fingal’s Buttress, 251 Beinn a’ Bhuird, new climbs, 245, 249, 349 Beinn a’ Chasgain Mor, new climbs, 148, 356 Beinn Dearg Mor, new climbs on, 149, 233 Beinn Dubhcraig, photos, 80, 123 Beinn Eighe, Coire Mhic Fhearchair, 354 Beinn Fhada, Kintail, new climbs, 70, 153 Ben Klibreck, new climbs on, 191 Beinn Lair, New Ways on, 35 Beinn Lair, new climbs, 35, 150, 234 cliffs and route photos, 37, 41 Ben Lui, Couloir, photo, 273 Range from Inversnaid, photo, 73 Ben Macdhui, new climbs, 158, 250, 351 Beinn a’ Mhuinidh, new climbs, 02, 235 Ben Nevis, new climbs, 69, 244, 357 Descent to Carn Mor Dearg Arete in winter, note and warning, 287, 389 Beinn Tarsuinn, Arran, Caisteal Coire nam Meann, 168 Bidean nam Bian— Aonach Dubh, new climbs, 68, 162, 241,363 Gearr Aonach, new climbs, 241, 361

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 66 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Index

Stob Coire nam Beith, Red Caves Gully, 362 Stob Coire nan Lochan, new climbs, 164, 243, 302 Winter ascents, 360 Blow, J. E., obituary, 262 Boots, Care of, 146 and midwinter ice, 287 Braeriach, new climbs, 67, 252, 353 Broad Cairn, Coffin Chimney, 158 Brocken Spectre, photo, 200 Buachaille, new climbs, 159, 191, 239, 360 Buchan, J. W., obituary, 368

Cairngorm Odyssey, 124 Cairngorm, Coire an’t-Sneachda, new climbs, 246, 353 Cairngorms, Cuillin seen from ?, 98, 388 Nature Reserve and Map, 387 Carn Etchachan, new climbs, 112, 352 Carn Mor Dearg Arete, notes, 287, 389; photo, 300 Caucasus Range— Attempt on Ushba, map and photo, 315 Cir Mhor, Rosa Pinnacle, East Wall, 70 Climbing in Harris, 225 Climbing Munros makes one Fit, 223 Cluanie Inn, photo, 250 Cobbler, North Peak, Chimney Arete, photo, 240 Coigach Peaks from An Stac, photo, 132 Coireachan Ruadha, Skye,new climbs, 11, 237, 307, 310 Corbett’s Tables of the 2,500-foot Mountains of Scotland, 45 note on, 136 Cornwall Cliffs, climbing on, 288 Corrour Tragedy, 53 Creag a’ Chuir, Ardverikie, photo, 175 Creag a’ Coire Etchachan, The Bastion, 246, 351 Creag an Dubh Loch, new climbs, 68, 156, 347; photos, 149, 156 Creag Meaghaidh, photo, 101 Creag Shomairle, Sutherland, new climb, 236 Craig, H. J., obituary, 260 Craig Herrich, Caenlochan Glen, new climb, 247 Cuillin Main Ridge Traverse times, 388 Cuillins seen from Cairngorms ?, 98, 388

Disappointing Summers, 334

Epistle to Tom Mackinnon, verses, 391 Exposure tragedies, 56

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 67 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Index

Far Cry to Lochow, 120 First Aid and Mountain Rescue, 327 Foinaven, Creag Dionard, new climbs, 67, 355 A’ Cheir Gorm, new climbs and photo, 356 Forgotten Corrie, The, 2, 307 Freedom of the Hills, verses, 52 Fuar Toll, Mainrachean Buttress, 152

Garbh Bheinn, Ardgour, climbs, 167, 243, 358 Great Ridge, South Wall, photo, 156 Gillon,. Stair A., obituary, 367 Glen Einich, photo, 125 Glen Lyon, shielings in, 289 Glover, G. T., obituary and photo, 255

Handa, notes on, 344 Harris, new climbs, 225-229 Himalaya, Nepal (1952), 214 Gauri Sankar, photo, 216 Mackinnon’s Pk., photo, 193 South Rolwaling, photo, 209

I Love the Hills, verses, 76

J.M.C.S., 85, 181,272, 375

King George VI, obituary, 1 Kingdom of the Snow, verses, 254

Liathach, new climbs, 152, 190, 191 Ling, W. N., obituary and photo, 255 Loch Avon, Kiwi Slabs, 247 Lochan na h-Earba, photo, 175 Lochnagar, Clam, photo, 348 Douglas Gully, photo, 348 New climbs, 67, 153, 244, 248, 348 Parallel Gully “ B,” 115 photo, 118 Shadow Buttress “A,” photo, 118 Winter Climbing on, 101 photo, 108 Lomond Hills, Carlin Maggie, ascent, 98 Low, Robt. S., obituary, 73

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 68 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Index

Mackinnon, Tom, Epistle to, verses, 391 Maclaren, Jas. E., obituary, 74 Maclaurin, J. C, obituary, 368 Macmillan, Lord, obituary, 169 MacRobert, H., obituary and photo, 364 (Monar), new climb, 357 Marsco, West-South-West Crag, Central Buttress, 239 , Coire Fee, new climb, 159 Meall Gorm, Applecross, new climb, 232 Merrick, Back Bearings on, 142 Meteorology of the Scottish Mountains, 193 Midwinter Ice and Boots, 287 Mingulay, 344 Mountain Rescue and First Aid, 327 Munro’s Tables, Observations on, 132 Munros and tops, ascent of, 289, 389

New Ways on Beinn Lair, 35 New Year Howffs, 14 Norwegian Mountains, 21 Rulten, Lofoten, photo, 32

On Ancient Hills, verse, 254 Orr, J. N., obituary, 262

Photography for Mountaineers. 293

Quinag, Climb on Buttress to East of Barrel Buttress, 67

Return, verses, 34 Reviews, 99, 191, 291, 390 Riley, C. E. E., obituary, 262 Rona, North, notes on, 342 summit, photo, 341 Ruadh Stac Mor, new climbs, 148 Rum, new climbs, 61

Saddle, The, photo, 264 St Clair, J. J., obituary, 262 Scottish Mountaineering Club— Abroad, 88, 184, 276, 378 Annual Meeting and Dinner. 81, 177, 269, 372 Ling Hut, opening, 368

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 69 Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 Index

Meets, 77, 173, 263, 370 photo at Newtonmore, 178 Sellar, R. T., obituary, 368 Sgurr Banachdich, new climbs, 58, 237 Sgurr na Caorach, new climbs, 151, 230 Cioch, North Wall, photo, 149 Sgurr Dearg, new climbs, 166, 238 Sgurr nam Fiannaidh. Clachaig Gully, 243 Sgurr na Laocainn, Torr na Iolaire, new climbs, 65 Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, new climbs, 59, 165 Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. The Forgotten Corrie, 2, 237, 307 Coireachan Ruadha cliffs, sketch. of climbs, 5, 310, 311 photo, 309 Crack of Dawn, photo, 1 Fluted Buttress, photo, 8 Sgurr Sgumain, new climbs, 58, 61 Sgurr Thearlaich, Quiver, 61 Sgoran Dubh, 3 Buttress, new climb, 159 Sron a’ Garbh Coire Bhig, Ardgour, new climbs, 358 Sron na Ciche, new climbs, 59, 61, 166, 236 Stac Polly, new climb, 235 Stob Ghabhar, Upper Couloir Keyhole, 98, 164 New Year on, photo, 233 Strath na Shellag, new climbs, 148, 232, 234 Stuc a’ Chroin, summit, photo, 293 Summers, Disappointing, 334

Teallach, An, Sgurr Ruadh, new climb, 233 Third on the Rope, 137 Tomkinson, H., obituary, 262 , Dun Cruit, 345

We Sail Again, 342 Winter Climbing on Lochnagar and the Cairngorms, 101 Whiten Head, Sutherland, caves and stacks, 343 photo, 341

Volume 25 [XXV; Nos. 143-146] 1952–1955 70 Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 Contents

Volume 26 (1956-1959) Edited by J. H. B. Bell CONTENTS

ARTICLES Kangchenjunga, 1955. By Tom McKinnon 1 The Scottish Women’s Himalayan Expedition. By Monica Jackson and Betty Stark 8 On the Possibility of seeing the Cuillin from the Cairngorms. By Guy Barlow 16 Fellow Traveller. By Iain H. Ogilvie 25 The Slide Collection. By Robert Grieve 29 A Nameless Sport. By E. W. Hodge 34 Some Early Climbs in the Cuillin. By W. Wickham King 37 Mountain Ploys (Verses). ByJ. K. Annand 39 Welcome Back to Tom McKinnon (Verses). By “Boab” (R. Grieve) 83 The Spell o’ the Hills (Verses). By D. J. Fraser 84 The Mustagh Tower. By T. W. Patey 101 The South Post of Coire Ardair. By C. G. M. Slesser 115 Skis in Scottish Mountaineering. By Geoffrey J. F. Dutton 121 Evaluation of a Risk. By I. G. Cumming and C. G. M. Slesser 126, 254 Spring Climbs in the High Atlas. By Tom Weir 138 The Zero Gully Affair. By Tom Patey 205 Two Hundred Kilometres on Ski in the Jotunheim. By Theo. Nicholson 216 The First Ascent of Dalness Chasm : Central Prong. By Tom Weir 225 The Pinnacle Again. By W. D. Brooker .229 Peaks and Passes in Kurdistan. By Tom Weir 235 Pitons. By John B. Nimlin 245 Rock Climbs in Galloway. By A. G. Waldie 251 Climbing in the Staunings Alps, Greenland. By D. J. Bennet 311 The Crossing to Syd Kap. By C. G. M. Slesser 322 The Crossing to Mesters Vig. By K. Bryan 324 The 3, 000-foot Mountains and Subsidiary Tops of Macgillycuddy’s Reeks. By W. M. Docharty 329 Point Five: A Ben Nevis Saga. By Ian Clough 335 Rakaposhi—The Taming of the Shrew. By T. W. Patey 343 Mountain Vigil (Verses). By D. J. Fraser 355 Great Central Groove, The Brack. By Pat Mitchell 356 Edinburgh Andean Expedition, 1958. By William Wallace 359

ILLUSTRATIONS – Lochnagar, Black Spout Pinnacle 1 Kangchenjunga, South-West Face 2 On the Upper Icefall, Kangchenjunga 2 Camp 3 on Upper Icefall, Kangchenjunga 7

Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 71 Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 Contents

Kangbachen, The West Peak of Kangchenjunga 7 The Approach to Gyalgen Peak, Kangchenjunga 10 Route Map (sketch), Kangchenjunga .13 The Lower Icefall: Phurbi Chyachu Glacier, Kangchenjunga 15 Possibility of Seeing the Cuillin from the Cairngorms: Explanatory Diagrams 20, 22 Buachaille Etive Mor: Wappenshaw Wall 57 The Mamores from Ben Nevis, looking S.S.E. 64 The Opening of the Ling Hut 92 The Summit Plateau of Ben Nevis, from the Air 97 Crowberry Gully, Buachaille Etive Mor 101 South Face of the Mustagh Tower, and Diagram 103 On the Mustagh Tower 106 The Cliffs of Coire Ardair (sketch) 117 Evaluation of a Risk, Explanatory Diagrams 133, 255 High Atlas Mountains 143 Pinnacles of Ouanoukrim in the High Atlas 146 Eastern Buttress, Sron na Ciche, Skye 151 Djibangi and Crimson Slabs on Creagan a’ Choire Etchachan, summer and winter views 154 Robert Jeffrey 182 Climbing Style (Chimney Arete of the Cobbler) 187 Zero Gully, Ben Nevis 205 Camp in Mia Hvara Glen (Kurdistan) with Geliasin in the background 212 Dalness Chasm, The Great Barrier Pitch 220 Black Spout Pinnacle, Lochnagar 229 The Mountains of Cilo from the Demirkapu Pass (Kurdistan) 239 Unnamed Peak above Geliasin Glacier (Kurdistan) 242 The Seespitze from the Mia-Hvara Glen (Kurdistan) 242 Glenwhargan Craig, Galloway (sketch) 253 Cooran Buttress, Dungeon Hill, Galloway (sketch) 253 Sron na Ciche, Eastern Buttress (sketch) 273 Sgurr Sgumain, from Lochan Coire Lagan (sketch) 273 The Carn Mor Dearg Arete 287 November Morning, Strathfillan 290 Archibald Eneas Robertson 311 The Staunings Alps, Greenland (sketch map) 312 Bersaerker Brae, Moraine Camp (Staunings Alps) 313 Theodolite Work above Sefstrom Glacier (Staunings Alps) 313 Camp on Sefstrom Glacier (Staunings Alps) 316 Lochan above Alpe Fiord (Staunings Alps) 316 View westward from Beaufort across Sefstrom Glacier (Staunings Alps) 319 Inverarnan (Staunings Alps) 326 Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (outline drawing) 335 Point Five Gully, Ben Nevis 342 West Face, Rakaposhi (Route Sketch) 344

Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 72 Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 Contents

The 1956 Attempt on Rakaposhi: On the Monk’s Head 344 Ascent of Rakaposhi 349 Parallel Gully, Pinnacle Buttress, Coire Ardair 375 Creag an Dubh Loch, The Slabs 382

IN MEMORIAM— Alexander Fraser 69 Alexander M. (Lord) Mackay 70 John F. A. Burt 72 Geoffrey E. Howard 74 Wilson H. Hey 75 R. M. Scott 75 Robert Jeffrey 182 Arthur R. Anderson 184 T. C. Ormiston Chant 184 Sir John Maxwell 282 Arthur G. Murray 283 Eric P. Buchanan 284 Daniel McKellar 285 Archibald E. Robertson 362 Douglas C. Hutchison 366 G. B. L. Motherwell 367 Frank G. Young 367

MOUNTAIN ACCIDENTS 95, 199, 305, 413

NEW CLIMBS 40, 148, 260, 367 (SEE ALSO INDEX)

NOTES AND EXCURSIONS 95, 201, 306, 417 (SEE ALSO INDEX)

BOOKS AND JOURNALS 98, 202, 307, 419

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 76, 185, 287, 397

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD 88, 195, 297, 407 (SEE ALSO INDEX)

J.M.C.S. 84, 192, 293, 404

Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 73 Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 Index

INDEX INDEX TO NEW CLIMBS (BY DISTRICTS) ALSO TO NOTES Full-scale articles in heavy type. Ardgour, Garbh Bheinn, 179, 280 Arran, 66, 306, 387 Arrochar Area, 62, 281, 356, 386 Cairngorms— Beinn a’ Bhuird, 48, 50, 154, 380, 381 Cairngorm, 44, 50, 152, 263, 379 Carn Etchachan, 43, 152, 262, 379 Creagan a’ Choire Etchachan, 45, 50, 153, 380 Ben Macdhui (Sputan Dearg), 50, 151 Braeriach, 47, 50, 265, 380 Sgoran Dubh, 49 Galloway, 251 Glen Coe— Buachaille Etive (Dalness), 55, 173, 225 Buachaille Etive, Stob Dearg, 56, 174, 277 Beinn a’ Chrulaiste, 306 Bidean nam Bian (and Ben Fhada), 59, 62 Stob Coire nam Beith, 279, 306 Stob Coire nan Lochan, 62, 178, 280 Aonach Dubh, 60, 176 Gearr Aonach, 60 Sgorr na h’Ulaidh, 179 Lochnagar (and Angus)— Clova, Red Craig, 260 Creag an Dubh Loch, 49, 149, 376 Lochnagar, 40, 49, 148, 229, 260 Creag Meaghaidh, 65, 115, 272, 375 Ben Nevis (massif, including Carn Dearg and Polldubh), 63, 166, 205, 269, 335, 367 North-West Highlands – South of Glen – Ben Fhada, 50 Sgurr Fhuaran, 155 Applecross, 51 , 51 Maol Chean Dearg, 201 South of Loch Broom – Ben Eighe, 266 Liathach, 156 Beinn a’ Mhuinidh, 267, 385 Fionn Loch to Sheallag, 159, 269 An Teallach, 156, 383

Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 74 Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 Index

Coigach Area – Ben More Coigach, 52, 158 Stack Polly, 157, 267 Cul Beag, 383 Suilven, 268 North of Kyle Sku – Ben Stack, 382 Foinaven, 381 , 381 Ben Hope, 158 Skye (north to south)— Storr Rock, 54 Clach Glas, 396 Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, 50, 172, 390 and Thuilm, 396 Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh, 54 Sgurr Dearg, 53, 172, 275, 395 Sgurr Mhic Coinnich (Coruisk), 388 Sgurr Alasdair and Thearlaich, 52, 395 Sgurr Sgumain, 276, 391, 395 Sron na Ciche, 53, 173, 272, 392, 394 Sgurr nan Eag, 277, 391 Southern Oddments— Campsies, 306 Edinburgh Castle, 419

INDEX TO SHORT NOTES British Caucasus Expedition, 417 Carn Mor Dearg, Warning Posts, 96 Cuillin Traverse (Ladies’), 201 Hill Traverses (Long), 95 Munros and Tops, 96, 419 North-East Coastline Guide, 201 Nylon Belay Loops, 418 Torridon (Ben Eighe), 96

INDEX TO S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD Africa, 297 Alps passim, 88, 192, 297, 407 Canada, 408 Corsica, 196, 303 Greece, 94 Greenland, 195 Himalaya, 88

Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 75 Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 Index

Iceland, 303 Lapland, 94 , 95, 411 Pyrenees, 94, 410 Turkey, 411 U.S.A., 92

Volume 26 [XXVI; Nos. 147-150] 1956–1959 76 Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 Contents

Volume 27 (1960-63) Edited by G. J. Dutton CONTENTS

ARTICLES Editorial 1 With Arne Randers Heen on the Romsdalshorn. T. W. Patey 6 The Bat and The Wicked. Robin Smith 12 Lochnagar. T. Weir 21 Mountain Days. Barclay Fraser 26 Missing the Last Post. N. S. Tennent 27 We Happy Few. R. W. MacLennan 33 Another Song (Ach, mein grossen Boten). T. W. Patey 43 Modern Scottish Winter Climbing. J. R. Marshall 107 Survival. G. J. Ritchie 117 Hjornespids. M. Slesser 124 Mountain Rescue in Scotland, 1935-1960. A. I. L. Maitland 130 Glissades, Vibrams and Ice-axes. B. H. Humble 136 Some Thoughts on Mountain Psychology. D. G. Duff 142 Cairngorm Commentary. T. W. Patey 207 Twelve Nights on Schkelda. G. J. Ritchie 220 . Derek Oldman 227 The Primitive Approach. N. S. Tennent 228 Mountaineering in the New Caledonian Forest. I. H. M. Smart 233 The 1961 J.M.C.S. Expedition to the South Staunings Alps. J. Clarkson 239 A Dream. J. S. M. Jack 244 The Matterhorn North Face. T. Carruthers 245 Kindred Clubs—(Etchachan, Grampian, Carn Dearg M.C.). 250 The Country of The Blind. W. H. Murray 328 May the Fire Be Always Lit. J. Nimlin 336 The Cascade Mountains. D. J. Bennet 342 Cairngorm Langlauf. Adam Watson 348 Beinn Dearg Mor Paimireach. Malcolm Slesser 353 A Great Day. R. Grieve 356 Kindred Clubs (Greenock M.C.) 360 Glencoe Evening. H. M. Brown 392

PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS— Dr J. H. B. Bell 1 Crowberry Gully in Winter 8 Romsdalshorn—Om Sommern! 9 Lochnagar Cliffs in March 24

Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 77 Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 Contents

Slesser assaults Creag Meaghaidh 25 Nicol thinks out Parallel Gully 25 W. Wickham King 82 Tower Ridge, a well-trodden Classic 107 Near the Devil’s Point, looking to Monadh Mor 114 First winter ascent of Parallel Gully ‘B,’ Lochnagar 115 Marshall on the first run of Gardyloo Buttress 116 Patey executing the first steps of Hadrian’s Wall 117 Hjornespids, Greenland 128 British-Soviet Mountaineers Group in Glencoe 129 J. R. Marshall at Third Pitch, Bullroar, Ben Nevis 207 Ushba, Caucasus; with Ritchie on summit of E. Schkelda 222 Slioch, E. Face 223 Lochan Fada and A’ Mhaighdean 238 1961 J.M.C.S. Expedition to Greenland: Tent Peak, Wedge Peak; On the Bjornbos Glacier: Sentinel Peak 239 The Matterhorn, N. Face 246 Islands in the Clouds 247 Uniquely Scottish: Loch Cluanie (Loch Loyne) and the Glenshiel Hills 327 The Cascade Mountains, U.S.A.: Forbidden Peak 346 A Langlauf: westwards from Beinn a’Bhuird 347 The Pamirs, U.S.S.R.: Peak of Communism 354 Ladhar Bheinn: Crags of Coire Dhorrcail 374

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR The Club Library, 45 The naming of climbs, 45 Protection against falling stones, 49 Glen Nevis : All or Nothing, 147 Une Haute Route Ecossaise, 149 About a broken ankle, 151 Those J.M.C.S. Bus Meets, 153 Why do we climb?, 257 Highland Landscape, 258 Holding the axe, 259 Eating the cake, 259 Mountain Rescue in Scotland, 264 Lagangarbh, 361-4.

NEW CLIMBS (SEE INDEX) 47, 156, 265, 364

NOTES (SEE INDEX) 71, 170, 280, 384

SCOTTISH MOUNTAIN ACCIDENTS, 1959-1962 78, 177, 297, 389

IN MEMORIAM— William W. King, 81 Frank G. Young, 86

Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 78 Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 Contents

R. H. Sellers, 87 Charles W. Parry, 181 Sir Hugh MacPherson, 183 James Y. Macdonald, 184 Alan Horne, 185 Edwin Davidson, 301 Drummond Henderson, 301 Herbert W. Turnbull, 303 J. W. R. Murray, 304 A. H. Read, 305 G. K. Murray, J.M.C.S., 306 Stuart F. M. Cumming, 307 W. A. Morrison, 393 Sir James M. Wordie, 394 Robin Smith, 395 Thomas S. G. Carruthers, J.M.C.S., 396 George R. Donald, 398.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 87, 186, 308, 399

J.M.C.S. REPORTS 94, 193, 314, 402

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD 96, 194, 315, 404

BOOKS 104, 200, 321, 411

OFFICE-BEARERS 106, 205, 326, 418

Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 79 Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 Index

INDEX NEW CLIMBS (heavy type) AND DISTRICT NOTES

ARRAN— A’Chir, 269, 384 , 157 Beinn Tarsuinn, 365, 385 BenNuis,71,384 Caisteal Abhail, 365 Cioch na h-Oighe, 157 Cir Mhor, 48, 49, 269, 270, 364, 385 Coire na h-Uaimh, 49, 365 Goatfell, 156, 270

ARROCHAR— Ben Ime, 384 Ben Narnain, 70, 280 Creag Tharsuinn, 71, 170 The Cobbler, 170, 280

BEN NEVIS— Ben Nevis, 60-62, 76, 161, 172, 275, 284, 375-6, 387 Carn Dearg, 58-60, 275, 377-9 Coire Leis Shelter, 173 Creag Uamh Shomhairle, 172 Polldubh Crags, 62-6, 74 Sgurr a’ Mhaim, 161

CAIRNGORMS— Beinn a’ Bhuird, 73, 382 Ben Macdhui, 162, 276, 381 Braeriach, 73, 379 Carn Etchachan, 284, 381 Cairngorm, 55, 56, 73, 379-81 Clova, 382 Creag an Dubh Loch, 57 Expedition, 172 Lochnagar, 57, 276, 382 Sgoran Dubh, 56.

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS— Access, 289 Creag Dubh (Newtonmore), 57, 58 Creag Meaghaidh, 58, 73, 161, 284, 375, 386 Outcrops, 286 Stob Gabhar, 275

Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 80 Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 Index

GALLOWAY— Craigdews, 71

GLEN COE & ARDGOUR— Aonach Dubh, 67, 168, 279, 383 Beinn Trilleachan & Glen Etive, 163-7, 168, 278, 284, 387 Buachaille Etive Mor, 67, 168, 279, 382, 387 Clachaig Gully, 76 Coire Gabhail (Lost Valley), 169 Garbh Bheinn (Ardgour), 170, 279, 285 Gearr Aonach, 68, 169, 279 Stob Coire nan Lochan, 169, 384

HARRIS— Creagan Leathan, 266 Creag Mo, 266 Ullaval (Sron Ulladale), 51, 265-6, 280 Sgurr Scaladale, 267, 280.

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS— Access, 291 A’Mhaighdean, 54, 55 An Ruadh Stac, 160, 171; An Teallach, 385 Beinn a’Mhuinidh, 54 Beinn Bhan, 283 Beinn Dearg (Ross), 369- 70 Beinn Eighe, 53, 159, 160, 274, 368-9 Ben Hope, 72; Ben Loyal, 52 Ben More Coigeach, 368 Cnoc na Freiceadain, 72 Cul Beag, 53 Duncansby Stacks, 55 Foinaven, 51-2, 72, 370-1 Fuar Tholl, 272 Gruinard Bay, 386 Linneraineach cliffs, 73 Loch Broom, 386 Quinag, 369 Sgurr a’ Chaorachain, 160, 171, 272, 283, 385 Sgurr an Fhidhleir, 72 Sgurr nan Clach Geala, 273-4 Sgorr Ruadh, 272

Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 81 Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 Index

Stac Polly, 52-3, 368 Strath Carron, 372-3 Torr na h-Iolaire (Carnmore), 55, 161, 274

RHUM— Allival, 267 Askival, 267 Ruinsval, 47-8, 268, 280

SKYE— , 157 Bhasteir Tooth, 157 Blaven, 271 Clach Glas, 283 Coir’ Uisg, 367, 385 Cuillin Ridge, 170, 281, 282 Macleod’s Maidens, 50 Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, 158 Sgurr Dearg, 50, 271, 366 Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, 50,158 Sgurr Sgumain, 49, 50, 71 Sgurr Thearlaich, 159 Sron na Ciche, 72, 366 Storr Rocks, 159 Waterstein Cliffs, 271

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS— Access, 285 Beinn Chuirn, 285 Craig-y-Barns, 69, 70 Outcrops, 286

WESTERN HIGHLANDS— Access, 290 Ladhar Bheinn, 373-5, 386

MISCELLANEOUS NOTES Access, 288, 291 Belay Loops, 77 Cleated Rubber Soles, 292 Editor & Journal, 76, 76, 292, 388 Glasgow Clubroom, 175 Library, 176, 22, 388 Munros, 174, 286, 388 Retirals, 77,387 Russian Visitors, 173

Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 82 Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 Index

Slide Collection, 295

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD Africa, 103, 404 Alps, 96, 197, 317, 408 Greenland, 195, 316 N. America, 194, 407 N. Europe, 317 Norway, 102, 196, 407 Spain, 101, 407

Volume 27 [XXVII; Nos. 151-154] 1960–1963 83 Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 Contents

Volume 28 (1964-1967) Edited by G. J. Dutton & R. N. Campbell CONTENTS

ARTICLES The Last Twenty-Five Years. W. H. Murray 1 Eigerwandering. Dougal Haston 8 The Ugly Sister. Robin N. Campbell 13 North Face Girdle. Robin N. Campbell 16 The First Twenty-Four Months. G. J. Dutton 18 The Old Man and the Mountains. Robin Smith 28 Preservation of Scottish Mountain Land for the Nation. G. J. Dutton 32 The First Winter Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge. Tom Patey 69 Minus Three in Summer. J. R. Marshall 87 The Scottish Andean Expedition – The Sacred Mountains. Donald Bennet 89 Interlude on Veronica. Donald Bennet 95 Yerupaja. Kenneth Bryan 97 A Climb Called’King Kong’. Brian W’. Robertson 103 First Ascent of The Curtain. David Bathgate 108 The Origins of Mountaineering in Scotland. D. B. Horn 157 Grønland Langrenn (1965 Scottish Trans-Greenland Expedition). Hugh Simpson 174 Squirrels on Point Five. Brian W. Robertson 182 Scottish-Canadian Coast Range Expedition, 1965 – General Account. Derek Fabian 186 The Ascent of Mount Burkett in 500 Words. Eddie Thompson 189 Explanation Giant. David Bathgate 190 Dain’s Orain – Maclnnes’ Mountain Patrol. Tom Patey 196 Extracts from’Red Pique’. Anon. 197 A Winter’s Tale. Dougal Haston 198 Birchermuesli, Braeriach and Blunders. Robin N. Campbell 200 Lagangarbh No More. G. J. Dutton 204 The Old Man of Stoer. Tom Patey 261 Lament for the Highland Glaciers. G. J. Dutton 267 Salute to Garbh Choire Mor. W. G. Berry 273 Hard Lines from Abroad – Direkt. Dougal Haston 276 Yosemite. David Bathgate 278 Klauswernerweg. Fred Harper 280 Bonatti Pillar, 1966. Alasdair McKeith 282 The Cairngorm . B. H. Humble 286 Mount Fairweather, 1958. D. Moore 290

Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 84 Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 Contents

The Thin Red Line. Brian W. Robertson 300 Expostulation with Cruachan. W. P. Ker 304 A Hard Day’s Night. Hamish M. Brown 305 Kindred Clubs (Ochil M.C.; Braehead, , M.C.) 309

PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS – FACING PAGE The Cuillin Ridge in Spring, from Bruach na Frithe 1 Robin Smith on North Face Girdle, Aonach Dubh 14 Dr Smart upon A’Mhaighdean 15 The Moving Finger 18 Dr G. Graham MacPhee 50 Winter Cuillin Ridge from Sgurr nan Gillean 69 Robertson Embraces the Gendarme 72 Crabb and Am Basteir under Snow 73 Patey, Robertson, Crabb and the Ridge 86 Maclnnes and his Soup 86 Slesser, Nevada Cancan and Chainapuerto 87 Easy Going to the Summit of Huacratanca 102 Sgurr Mor of the Fannichs in February 103 On the Way to the Central Ice-Cap, Greenland 157 The Central Ice-Cap, Sailing Westward 172 Robertson in Point Five Gully, Ben Nevis 173 Kate’s Needle, Gilroy and , Canadian Coast Range 188 Squirrels on The Giant, Creag an Dubh Loch 189 Squirrels Abroad: the Klauswernerweg 242 J. S . M. Jack 243 Beinn Lair and Slioch from A’Mhaighdean 261 The Old Man of Stoer, Route of Ascent 268 Looking North from A’Mhaighdean one Late-Glacial Summer 269 Snowbeds, Garbh Choire Mor, September, 1966 276 Bergschrund in Garbh Choire Mor 276 Patey on Second Pitch, Old Man of 277 The Old Man of Hoy and his Conquerors 316 The North Ridge of Alpamayo 317

SKETCHES AND DIAGRAMS – Upper Cliffs of Coire Ardair, Creag Meaghaidh (Inner Corrie) 38 The Corner between Main Face & Upper Cliffs, Creag Meaghaidh 38 Cuillin Ridge, First Winter Traverse 71

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR – From the , 206 Meet Sandwich, 209 Betrayal of Trust, 210 Reaction under Stress, 314

Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 85 Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 Contents

Making the , 315 Power of Speech, 317

NEW CLIMBS (SEE INDEX) 34, 111, 210, 318

NOTES (SEE INDEX) 41, 126, 226, 340

SCOTTISH MOUNTAIN ACCIDENTS, 1963-1966 .... 49, 242, 351

IN MEMORIAM – George Graham MacPhee, 50 Allan Arthur, 51 Neil Macniven, 52 Tom Longstaff, 132 Robert Lorimer Beveridge, 135 J. Currie Henderson, 136 Lord Malcolm Douglas-Hamilton, 136 J. S. M. Jack, 243 Thomas Evershed Thomson, 245 T. Graham Brown, 246 Sir William Ross MacLean, 357 A. N. Maclaurin, 357 Alasdair MacDonald, J.M.C.S., 358.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 53, 138, 248, 358

J.M.C.S. REPORTS 56, 140, 251, 360

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD (SEE INDEX) 58, 143, 253, 361

BOOKS 61, 150, 256, 369

OFFICE-BEARERS 68, 156, 260, 376

Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 86 Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 Index

INDEX Note : Page numbers in heavy type refer to New Climbs, in light type to Notes and in italic type to Articles and Illustrations.

ARRAN – A’Chir, 340 Beinn a’Chliabin, 319 Beinn Tarsuinn, 126, 318 Ben Nuis, 127 Ceum na Caillich, 213 Cir Mhor, 34, 112-3, 126, 213, 227, 340 Coire na h-Uaimh, 319, 340 Errata in Guide, 127 Goatfell, 34, 111-2, 212, 319, 340 Torr Nead an Eoin, 112, 227, 340

ARROCHAR – Ben Narnain, 123 The Brack, 343 Creag Tharsuinn, 123 Dunleacan, 225 Glen Croe, 343. BARRA – Round of Tops, 227

BEN NEVIS – Ben Nevis, 28ff, 39, 87ff, 118-9, 127, 182ff, 220, 330-1 Carn Dearg, 39, 103ff, 108ff, 117-8, 221, 331 Polldubh Crags, 39, 331, 342.

CAIRNGORMS – Beinn a’ Bhuird,128, 217, 326 Ben Macdhui, 40, 119-20, 216, 326-7, 341 Braeriach, 120-1, 128, 200ff, 216, 273ff, ill. 276, 327-8 Cairngorm, 40, 122, 127, 217, 286ff Carn Toul, 41 Creag an Dubh Loch, 121-2, 190ff, 218, 328 Lochnagar, 218, 318 Mayar, 328.

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS – Craigellachie, 220 Creag Dubh, 39, 116, 228, 329, 342 Creag Meaghaidh, 36-9, 41-2, 116, 218-20, 228, 329, 341 Dirc Mhor, 329 Dubh-Lag, 342 Sgurr a’Mhaim, 329

Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 87 Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 Index

GENERAL SUBJECTS – Early Exploration in Scottish Highlands, 161ff Highland Glaciers, 267ff

GLENCOE, GLEN ETIVE & ARDGOUR – A’Chioch, 222 An t-Sron, 338 Aonach Dubh, 13ff, ill. 14, 16ff, 41, 122, 223-4, 336-8, 342 Aonach Eagach, 342 Beinn Fhada, 223 Beinn Mhic Chasgaig, 332 Beinn Trilleachan, 221-2, 300ff, 331-2 Bidean nam Bian, 334, 338, 342 Buachaille Etive Mor, 42, 222, 332-4, 342 Creag Bhan, 224 Errata in Guide, 228 ; Garbh Bheinn, 339 Gearr Aonach, 223, 334-5, 342 Sgor na h-Ulaidh, 339 Stob Coire nam Beith, 338 Stob Coire nan Lochan, 335-6.

HARRIS – Creag Mo, 212, 227 Sgurr Scaladale, 227 Sron Ulladale, 211, 227.

MISCELLANEOUS NOTES Access, 48 (see 209) Accidents, 131, 242-3 Back Numbers, 229 Equipment, 232-3, 345-9 Errata, 48 Four Cairngorms, 344-5 Greenland Expeditions, 47, 229-231 Index, 229 J.M.C.S. Origins, 343-4 Kindred Clubs, 45 Library, 48, 131, 243, 350-1 Mountain Rescue, 232, 343 Munros, 44-5, 129-30, 231, 343 Naismith’s Formula, 45 Nevado Alpamayo, 349 Norway, 237-9 Office-Bearers, 43, 229

Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 88 Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 Index

Ordnance Survey, 130, see 206, 226, 229, see 243 Orophilately, 46 Pyrenees, 239-41, 349 Rock-Climber’s Guides, 233-6 Scottish Mountaineering Trust, 44 Squirrels, 46.

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS – A’Mhaighdean, ill. 15 , 325 Beinn a’Chaisgein Mor, 323-4 Beinn Dearg, 323 Beinn Eighe, 324 Beinn Lair, ill. 261 Ben Klibreck, 116 Foinaven, 115, 215-6, 227, 326 Glenbeg, 326 Glen na Muice, 116 Guides to, 341 Old Man of Stoer, 267ff, ill. 268, 323 Seana Bhraigh, 325 Sgurr Mor, ill. 103 Sgurr nan Clach Geala, 325 Sheallag Glacier, ill. 269 Stac Polly, 115. – Old Man of Hoy, ill. 277, ill. 316, 322-3.

RHUM – Allival, 319-21, 340 Askival, 321, 340 Ruinsival, 321-2, 340.

SKYE – Am Basteir, ill. 69 Bhasteir Tooth, ill. 73 Bidein Druim nan Ramh, 213 Bruach na Frithe, ill. 69 Caisteal a’Garbh Choire, 114, 213 Main Cuillin Ridge, 69ff, diag. 71, 226 Sgurr a’Ghreadaidh, 214 Sgurr Alasdair, 215 Sgurr a’Mhadaidh, 113 Sgurr an Fheadain, 35 Sgurr Dearg, 114, 214 Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, 41

Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 89 Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 Index

Sgurr na h-Uamha, 115 Sgurr nan Gillean, 36 Sgurr na Stri, 322 Sgurr Sgumain, 114, 214, 226 Sron na Ciche, 35, 36, 113-4, 214-5, 226.

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD – Africa, 143, 305ff, 361 Alps, 8ff, 59-61, 147-49, 198ff, 255-6, 276ff, 280ff, 365, 368 Andes, 89ff, ill. 87, ill. 102, ill. 307 Asia, 144, 254, 368 Canada, 144-7, 186ff, 253-4, 290ff, 368 Greenland, 174ff Norway, 58, 254, 364 Pyrenees, 364 United States of America, 278ff World, 368.

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – Bonskeid Crag, 225 Craig-y-Barns, 42-3, 128, 224, 339 Dumbarton Rock, 123-6 Fife Outcrops, 43 Glen Lednock, 228 Guide to Outcrops in, 228, 343.

WESTERN HIGHLANDS – Beinn Sgritheal, 216.

Volume 29 (1968–1971) Edited by G. J. Dutton & R. N. Campbell CONTENTS

ARTICLES Dedo Do Deus. Malcolm Slesser 1 The Loosening-up. G. J. Dutton 5 Hard Lines from the Past – The Zmutt Ridge of the Matterhorn, 1906. W. N. Ling 9 Goofy’ s Last Climb. Robin Smith 11 More Lines – Two Generations on Goatfell. Douglas Fraser 14 The Article. Ian Rowe 15 Strone Ulladale. John Grieve 16 A Gentleman’ s Tour of Skye. Michael Flint 19 Sesto Grado and Beyond. B. W. Robertson 22

Volume 28 [XXVIII; Nos. 155-158] 1964–1967 90 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Contents

A Bit of the Blarney. Hamish M. Brown 27 Looking Back over them All. W. M. Docharty 29 First Footin’ – A New Year Avalanche. Graham Tiso 34 The Lost Leader. Douglas Fraser 39 Munros and Munroists. G. J. Dutton 39 Kindred Clubs (The Corriemulzie Mountaineering Club). Ian Rowe 43 The Coruisk Affair. G. J. Dutton 111 Dedo De Deus – “Harvey’s” Story. E. J. Henley 121 The Shelter Stone Crag. James Renny 125 The Pin. Robert Carrington 128 Magma. G. J. Dutton .130 Scottish Expeditions to the Hindu Kush – 1965. P. N. L. Tranter 131 1968. Ian G. Rowe 135 An Excursion in Scotland. Royal Robbins 139 Coils. Ian G. Rowe 145 The Staunings Alps Again. Donald Bennet 146 And Again. Brian Hill 150 A Literary Diversion. Douglas Fraser 153 Mount Bouvier, Antarctica. A. McKeith 155 Eagle Ridge of Lochnagar in Winter. Douglas Lang 163 Mackie’ s at One. E. C. Thomson 165 The Brack. R. Richardson 227 Arran. Anonymous 231 Creag Meaghaidh Crab-Crawl. Tom Patey 231 Dun da Ghaoithe, Mull. Roger North 239 The Technical North Face of the Matterhorn. Ian G. Rowe 241 A Guided Tour. Allan Austin 242 The Ballad of Bill Murray. Tom Patey 246 Before the Flood. G. J. Dutton 247 Party. Ian G. Rowe 251 Peaks of the Far North. R. J. Jolly 252 Peaks of the Farthest North – University of St. Andrews Expedition, 1969, Upernivik Island 254 International Mount Mikkelsen Expedition, 1969 256 Dundee University Scoresby Land Expedition, 1968 259 The Sinister Coast. I. H. M. Smart 261 Creag an Dubh Loch à la Carte. John Grieve 264 The Last Ten Years. Robin N. Campbell 267 Undertones. Roger North 269 Last Farewell to the Mountains. Duncan Ban Mclntyre 270 More on Creag Meaghaidh. N. Quinn 271 Twenty-four Hours. Robin Smith 341 Shelter Stone Crag, Eaglets and a Hair Rape. Christopher North 347

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 91 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Contents

One Man’s Meet. Robin N. Campbell 351 MacFaustus –Addicts in Arran. Ian G. Rowe 355 Into the Mountain Mist. Douglas Fraser 360 An Excursion to Afghanistan (S.H.K.E., 1970). Wilfrid Tauber 361 Citadel in Winter. W. March 364 Naismith Reviewed. Trevor Ransley 369 Kingpin: A Second Ascent. D. A. Knowles 372 Behind the Ranges. Hamish M. Brown 374 In the Groove. James R. Marshall 378 Trivia on a Visit to . Roger North 382 Drug Addiction in Scottish Mountaineering. Sir Robert Christison 385 When Raindrops Keep Falling on your Cliff. Douglas Lang 388

PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS – F. Harper on Downtown Lunch, Bedtime Buttress, Creag Dubh 1 Dennis Gray Doubtful. First Winter Ascent of Apollyon Ledge, Creag Meaghaidh 12 J. Renny in Gardyloo Gully 13 J. Grieve on Aurora, Strone Ulladale 16 The Great West Wall of Strone Ulladale 11 The Great Tower under Snow 32 The Man Himself. Munro with Some Subsidiary Tops 33 Loch Coruisk 111 The Shelter Stone Crag 126 Robin Smith 127 Peaks above the Sefstroms Glacier, Greenland 148 Brian Robertson on the South Face of Huandoy 149 The Great Prow, Blaven 184 Blyth Wright on the North-West Ridge of the Fuori, Bregaglia 227 Creag Meaghaidh Girdle Traverse 232 Crowberry Gully and Tower, Buachaille Etive Mor 233 The C.I.C. Hut, Ben Nevis 248 The Elephant in Scottish Mountaineering 249 The Braes of from Sgurr na Ciche 268 Tom Patey 341 Am Buachaille 350 Ben Nevis, North Face 380 Deltaform Mountain and Hungabee, Rockies 404 A Very Old Dinner and the 1933 Meet at Corrour 405

SKETCHES AND DIAGRAMS – The Scuir of 54 Cliffs of Binnein Shuas 68 Chart illustrating Revised Naismith’ s Rule 370

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 45, 167, 273, 391

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 92 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Contents

NEW CLIMBS 48, 183, 279, 398

NOTES 76, 201, 317, 425

SCOTTISH MOUNTAIN ACCIDENTS 81, 206, 323

IN MEMORIAM – Arthur W. Russell, 88 R. W. MacLennan, 89 Ralph Dickson, 91; P. L. J. Heron, 91 H. M. D. Watson 92 James Craig, 92 W. Malcolm, 92 David Myles, 211 A. G. Waldie, 212 James Clarkson, 213 Donald G. Duff, 214 William McKnight Docharty, 215 Arthur Geddes, 216 Thomas McQuillen, 216 W. G. Marskell, 216 Standish O’ Grady, 216 James MacArtney, 330 J. R. Dempster, 331 Eric Jones, 332 Guy Barlow, 332; Arthur H. H. Ross, 334 J. W. W. Drysdale, 334 John Geddes, 334 S. Pointon Taylor, 334 Hugh Kirkland, 334 Thomas W. Patey, 433 Ian S. Clough, 439 John D. Gemmel, 440 E. N. Marshall, 440 A. Muirhead, 440 G. A. Roberts, 440

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 93, 217, 334, 441

J.M.C.S. REPORTS 94, 218, 336, 443

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD – Atlas Mountains, 178, 394-5 Canada, 97-100, 276-7, 394 Finland, 396

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 93 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Contents

Greenland, 396 Himalayas, 170-4, 275-6, 392-3 , 394 Iceland, 178-9 Kenya, 177 Lesser Antilles, 174-5; Malawi, 177 Malaysia, 393-4 Norway, 100, 179-80, 277-8; Peru, 175-6 Pyrenees, 180 Sweden, 396 The Alps, 100-2, 180-3, 278-9, 396-8 Turkey, 100 U.S.A., 97

BOOK REVIEWS 103, 219, 337, 444

OFFICE-BEARERS 110, 226, 340, 447

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 94 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Index

INDEX OF NAMES Notes –(1) Italic type indicates an Article, Letter or Note by the person named; plain type indicates a reference to the person named. (2) Only Articles, Letters and Notes have been indexed.

Agnew, D., 127, 143 Clough, I. S., 76, 264 Allan, C., 146ff Corbett, J. R., 41, 43 Allen, C. R., 259 Cousins, A. G., 111ff Anderson, W., 150ff Crawford, J., 277ff Annand, G., 126 Crichton, Q., 272 Austin, J. A., 242ff Crockett, K. V., 426 Baillie, R., 230, 392 Cunningham, J., 364ff, 430 Ball, J., 16 Docharty, W. M., 29ff, 39, 43 Band, W. T., 256 Dodson, B., 259 Barker-Wyatt, Lt. Col. D., 113-5 Donald, P., 43 Bartholomew, L. St. C., 166 Dow, J., 41 Bathgate, D., 34ff, 77, 79 Dundas, I., 356 Bell, J. H. B., 377 Dutton, G. J., 5ff, 39ff, 111ff, 130, 238, 247ff, Bennet, D. J., 81, 112, 146ff 431-2 Bethell, D., 259 Evans, R. B., 16 Biggar, P., 256 Findlay, B. S., 265 Blenkinsop, A., 150ff Fletcher, P., 273 Bonington, C. J. S., 268 Forbes, M., 127 Bower, J., 429 Forrest, D. C., 207, 202, 426 Brian, P., 135ff Fraser, D. J., 14, 39, 153ff, 360-1, 376 Briggs, D., 34ff Fraser, W., 131ff Brown, H. M., 27ff, 40, 76, 274, 323, 374ff, Fullalove, J., 23 427, 429 Fulton, I., 268, 430 Brown, J., 143 Fyffe, A., 202, 232, 264-6, 388 Brumfitt, J., 356 Gaff, R., 150ff Bryan, K., 149 Galbraith, M., 241, 356 Buchanan, E. P., 165 Gardner, J., 127, 128ff, 156 Burn, R., 41 Gibbs, G. B., 249ff Burnett, R., 126 Gillman, P., 232 Campbell, I. M., 273-4 Grassick, K., 126 Campbell, R. N., 77, 79, 267ff, 320, 351ff, Gray, D., 232 356, 381-2 Gribbon, P. W. F., 80, 256 Carrington, R., 127, 128ff, 235, 268, 359, Grieve, J., 16ff, 78, 265ff, 388 365-6 Grieve, R., 114, 167 Carvell, J., 259 Gunson, P., 146ff Chalmers, R., 146ff Hardie, G., 317 Christison, Sir Robert, 385ff Hardie, J., 264 Clark, W. Inglis, 247ff Harlin, J., 143 Cleare, J., 232 Harrison, A., 81, 166, 273

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 95 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Index

Hart, J., 365-6 Mackay, D., 166 Haston, D., 141 McKeith, A., 155ff, 231, 356, 358 Hay, J. Y. L., 126 Mackenzie, J., 320-1, 428 Heller, M. D., 256 Mackenzie, W. M., 114-5, 118 Henley, E. J., 1ff, 121ff Macniven, N., 357 Heywood, B., 259 Macpherson, D., 273 Hill, B. T., 150ff McWilliam, J., 117-8 Higgins, C., 235, 359 Mabon, D., 117 Hogg, James (The Ettrick Shepherd), 347 March, W., 229, 364ff, 392, 429, 430 Hopkins, G. M., 153-4 Marshall, J. R., 78, 202, 268, 378ff Housman, A. E., 154 Marshall, R., 381-2 Hudson, M. A., 232 Martin, B., 273 Humble, B. H., 115, 227, 392 Martin, D. B., 135ff Hunt, Lord, 114 Martin, K., 390 Hunter, G. N., 265, 272, 321, 388ff Maxfield, A. J., 77 Inglis, R. G., 167, 169, 274 Maxwell, D. C., 39 Jack, J. S. M., 81 Maxwell, E., 39 Jackson, J. R., 268 Mellor, R. A. P., 135ff Jackson, P. M., 117 Menzies, D., 165 Johnson, M., 114-5, 118 Metcalf, E., 242ff Johnstone, G., 131ff Mitchell, P., 227 Johnstone, R., 115 Moriarty, J., 243ff, 380-1 Jolly, R. J., 252-3 Morrison, J., 227 Jones, D., 146ff Morrison, M., 19 Jones, E., 17 Morrison, W. A., 165 Kellock, D., 166 Mounsey, W. A., 249ff Kirkland, D. M., 256 Munro, A., 389 Knowles, D. A., 372ff, 390 Munro, Sir H., 30, 39 Lang, Lt. Gen. Sir D., 113 Murray, W. H., 113, 119, 167-8, 246-7 Lang, D. F., 78, 163ff, 202, 265, 272, 388ff Nash, Ogden, 154-5 Langmuir, E., 34ff, 80, 118 Nicholson, I., 268, 372ff, 390, 429, 430 Lawrie, B. X., 126 Nicol, A. G., 126 Lawson, M., 165 North, Christopher, 347ff Lillie, G., 126 North, Col. R., 125, 239ff, 269, 382ff Ling, W. N., 9ff North, R. A., 135ff, 362ff Littlejohn, A., 76 Nunn, P., 317, 428-9 Lovat, L. S., 149 O’Brien, R., 259 MacArtney, J., 126, 232, 238 Ogilvie, I. H., 46ff McClure, Chief Constable A., 114-5, 118 Park, A., 45 Macdonald, P. F., 317 Parker, J. A., 39 McDowall, J., 392 Paterson, S., 149 MacEacheran, I., 126-7 Patey, T. W., 126, 139ff, 231ff, 246-7, 268, Maclnnes, H., 113, 264-5, 273, 388 318-21 Mclntyre, Duncan Ban, 270-1 Peet, G., 113, 271

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 96 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Index

Pettit, A., 257, 259, 390 Termanini, G. C., 25 Plint, M., 19ff Thompson, W., 373 Porteous, J., 127, 268 Thompson, E., 166 Prentice, G. S., 32 Thompson, E. C., 165ff Quinn, N., 163ff, 271ff, 389 Thomson, J. M., 30 Raeburn, H., 9, 125, 248 Thomson, W. S., 126 Ransley, T., 369ff Tiso, G., 34ff Reeves, M., 16 Todd, D., 156 Rennie, M., 127, 265 Topham, P., 259 Renny, J., 125ff Tranter, P. N. L., 43ff, 131ff, 376 Ribiero, C. C., 1ff, 121ff Trees, A. J., 357 Richardson, R., 227ff, 392 Turnbull, D., 274, 319, 391 Robbins, E., 139ff Vigano, C., 202 Robbins, R., 139ff Wakefield, G. B., llff Robertson, A. E., 40 Wala, J., 80 Robertson, B. W., 22ff, 143-4 Wallace, W., 77, 201, 358 Roper, I., 202 Ward, K., 166 Ross, J. N., 256 Watson, J., 259 Rowe, I. G., 15, 43ff, 145, 241ff, 251, 355ff, Watson, K., 259 361ff Watson, M., 127, 357 Runcie, A., 259 Waterston, G., 259 Sellers, R., 126 Waterston, I., 259 Shade, J. S., 256 Wedderburn, E. A. M., 166 Simpson, J., 201 Wedderburn, J„ 131ff Skidmore, W., 227ff, 428-9, 430 Whillans, D., 142, 232 Slesser, M., 1ff, 45ff, 80-1, 121ff, 257, 261ff, Whitham, D., 114 322 Wright, D. S. B., 44-5, 358-60 Smart, I. H. M., 257, 259, 261 ff Wright, T. M., 113 Smith, M., 126 Young, G. W., 377 Smith, R., 11ff, 127, 243ff, 268, 341ff Yule, F., 81 Smythe, F. S., 274 Ziebell, Major C., 257, 261ff Spence, K., 127, 268 Sproul, W., 81, 126, 361ff Stevenson, A. T. A., 256 Stewart, J. G., 320 Stewart, J. S., 81 Stewart, M., 139ff Stirling, H., 202, 358 Strange, G. S., 127 Styles, S., 79-80 Tancred, J., 135ff Tauber, W. J. A., 256, 323, 361ff Taylor, J. M., 126 Tennent, N., 146ff

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 97 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Index

INDEX OF SUBJECTS Notes –(1) Page numbers in heavy type refer to New Climbs, in italic type to Articles or Letters and in plain type to Notes. (2) Only Articles, Letters, New Climbs and Notes have been indexed.

Antarctica, Mount Bouvier, 155ff Glen Clova, 65-6, 78 Lochnagar, 63, 163ff, 202, 309, 418, 429 ARRAN – Mayar, 193, 320 A’Chir, 186, 201 Meall Dubhag, 192 Beinn Nuis, 284, 357ff, 402 Shelter Stone Crag, 125ff, 128ff, 347ff, Beinn Tarsuinn, 56, 284-5, 356 364ff Caisteal Abhail, 285 White , 65, 193, 309, 418 Cioch na h-Oighe, 56, 187 Cir Mhor, 185-6, 285, 357-8 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS – Goatfell, 14, 56, 77, 186-7 , 320 Maol Donn, 77 Binnein Shuas, 67-9, 194, 310, 320, 420 Mullach Buidhe, 187, 201 , 69-70 New Guide, 317 Creag Dubh, 66-7, 196, 310, 418-9 North, Glen , 187-8 Creag Meaghaidh, 194, 231ff, 271ff, 310-1, Torr Nead an Eoin, 56, 77, 201 321, 419-20 Sgor an Iubhair, 420 BEN NEVIS REGION – Sgurr Innse, 420 Ben Nevis, 70, 195, 311-2, 420-1, 429-30 Steall Waterfall, 321, 429 Carn Dearg, 71, 78, 195, 312, 321, 341ff, Stob Ban, 311 378ff Stob Gabhar, 70 Meall Cumhan, 421 Changes of Office, 81 New Guide, 202 Cordillera Blanca, British Expedition, 1968, Polldubh Crags, 78, 421-3 203 Brazil, Dedo de Deus, 1ff, 121ff Corriemulzie M.C., 43ff British Mountaineering Council, 45ff Coruisk, Access to, 111ff, 321 British Mountains, 29ff Czechoslovakian Mountaineers’ Visit, 80 CAIRNGORMS – Drug Addiction in Scottish Mountaineering, Avalanche in, 34ff 385ff Beinn a’ Bhuird, 62, 191, 299, 408-9 Duff, Dr. D., Memorial to, 322 Beinn Bhrotain, 299 Edinburgh, Monthly Lunch Meeting, 165ff, 323 Beinn Mheadhoin, 410 Environmental Pressure, 205-6 Ben Macdhui, 62, 190-1, 299-300, 410-2 Fiescherhorn, 11ff Braeriach, 62-3, 78, 300-2, 412 Cairngorm, 190, 302-6, 412-5, 429 GLEN COE REGION – Carn Righ, 5ff An t-Sron, 199 Carn Toul, 416 Aonach Dubh, 73-5, 78, 199, 202, 312-3, Creag an Dubh Loch, 64, 192, 265ff, 306-8, 424 388ff, 416-8, 429 Aonach Eagach, 312 Creag an Fhir-Saighde, 65 Beinn Chaorach, 71 Craig of Gowal, 193 Beinn Mhic Chasgaig, 202

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Beinn Trilleachan, 71, 195, 202, 312, 423, Liathach, 59-60, 287 430 Maol Ceann Dearg, 428 Bidean nam Bian, 196-7, 314-5, 372ff, 430 Meall Gorm, 287 Buachaille Etive Mor, 71-2, 139ff, 195-6, Sgurr a’Chaorachain, 189, 287-9, 404, 429 315-6, 423-4 Sgurr Ruadh, 189, 289, 404 Garbh Bheinn, 75, 316, 424 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS II – Gearr Aonach, 72-3, 78, 197-8, 314 New Year Meet 1971, 351ff Alladale Slabs, 57 Sgor nam Fiannaidh, Clachaig Gully, 242ff A’Mhaigh-dean, 58, 375-6 Stob Coire nam Beith, 75, 315 An Teallach, 289-90 Stob Coire a’Chearcaill, 316 Beinn a’Chasgein Mor, 58, 189 Stob Coire nan Lochan, 73, 424 Beinn Dearg, 57, 290-1, 405 Winter Climbs, 202 Beinn a’Mhuinidh, 59, 291-2, 405 Ben Lair, 189 GREENLAND – , 428 Mount Mikkelsen, 256ff, 261ff Carnan Ban, 59 Scoresby Land, 259ff, 432 Carn na h-Aire, 318 Staunings Alps, 146ff, 150ff, 204 Creag na Gaorach, 59 Upernivik Island, 80, 254ff Creag Mhor Tollaidh, 77, 292, 317, 402-4 Guidebooks, Photographs for, 80-1 Fionn Loch Area, 202 Haute Route Ecossaise, 322 Gruinard Jetty Buttress, 77, 405 Hindu Kush – Seana Bhraigh, 374-5 Expeditions to, 131ff, 135ff, 361ff Sgurr a’Mhuilinn (Fannichs), 405 Map of, 80 Sgurr Mor, 57 Honorary President, 81 Slioch, 319

INNER HEBRIDES (EXCEPT ARRAN & SKYE) – NORTHERN HIGHLANDS III – Eigg, 54-5, 399 Am Buachaille, 292, 428 Islay, 79-80, 425-6 Beinn Laoghal, 252//, 292, 405-6 Mull, 239ff Ben Hope, 252//, 427 Rhum, 51-4, 76, 427 Ben Klibreck, 428 Ireland, 3000 ft. Peaks of, 27ff Clett Rock, Holburn Hd., 292-3 Matterhom, 9ff, 241ff Creag Shomhairle, 57, 293 Metros, 169, 274 Cul Mor, 293 Motors, First Used in Mountaineering, 247ff Foinaven, 57, 188-9, 252ff, 293, 406-7 Mountain Safety, 204-5, 322 Old Man of Hoy, 294 Munros, etc., 39ff, 205, 323, 431 Quinag, 295-6 Naismith’s Rule, 369ff Sgorr Deas, 297 New Climbs 1960-9, 267ff Sgurr an Fhidhleir, 297 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS I – Smoo Cave, Durness, 407-8 An Ruadh Stac, 60 Stacan Geodh Brisidh, 294 , 427 Stack of Handa, 293-4, 318-9 Beinn Bhan, 285-6 Stac Pollaidh, 296 Beinn Eighe, 286-7, 402 Whiten Head, 408 Ben Damh, 60

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 99 Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 Index

OUTER HEBRIDES – Creag Tharsuinn, 430 Creag Dubh Dhibidail, 398-9 Dunleacan, 425 Creag Mo, 280 Grey Mare’s Tail, 203 Griomaval, 280, 399, 426 New Arrochar Guide, 430 Sgaoth Ard, 48, 280 The Brack, 75-6, 200, 227ff, 392 Sgurr Scaladale, 280 The Cobbler, 200 Strone Scourst, 49 The Souter (Fast Castle Hd.), 79 Strone Ulladale, 16ff, 49, 281, 317 Torre di Valgrande, 22ff Taran Mor, 280 Unna’s Rules, 391

Schiehallion, 382ff WESTERN HIGHLANDS – Scotblob, 323 An Caisteal (Loch Hourn), 60-1 SKYE – , 299, 408 An Diallaid, 400 Beinn Odhar Mor, 298, 408 Blaven, 50 281-2, 317 Bidein a’Choire Sheasgaich, 376-7 Clach Ghlas, 50 Creag a’Ghlastail (Glen Orrin), 77 Coire a’Ghreadaidh, 50, 184 Lurg Mhor, 376-7 Coire Lagain, 50 (Loch Hourn), 61 Coire a’Mhadaidh, 50 Sgurr a’Mhuilinn, 61-2, 319-20 Coire Tairnealar, 185, 201 Wilderness Areas, 167-8 Druim nan Ramh, 400 Main Cuillin Ridge, 19ff Maps of, 76 Marsco, 185 Nead na h-Iolaire, 50 New Guides, 201 Old Man of Storr, 185 Sgurr Dearg, 282, 400 Sgurr nan Eag, 183-4 Sgurr nan Gillean, 282 Sgurr a’Mhadaidh, 283-4, 317 Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, 184, 284, 400, 426 Sgurr Sgumain, 184, 400-1 Sgurr Thearlaich, 401 Sgurr Thormaid, 184 Sron na Ciche, 284, 401, 426 Talisker Bay Sea-stacks, 401

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – Beinn Cruachan, 425 Beinn Dobhrain [Dorain], 270 Beinn an Dothaidh, 200 Beinn Dubh (Glen Lochay), 321 Beinn Udlaidh, 317, 425 Craig-y-Barns, 76, 203, 317, 425

Volume 29 [XXIX; Nos. 159-162] 1968–1971 100 Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 Contents

Volume 30 (1972-1975) Edited by R. N. Campbell CONTENTS

ARTICLES Editorial. Robin N. Campbell 1 Scotland’s Semi-Permanent Snows. Gordon Manley 4 Madman’s Tour. Phillip Gribbon 15 Song of an Unfit Climber. Douglas J. Fraser 19 Salsipuedes. Yvon Chouinard 20 Pink Elephants in the Black Shoot. Robin N. Campbell 21 Old Hooligans By G. J. F. Dutton 23 A Blinder of a Day. William Skidmore 24 How They Speak. G. J. F. Dutton 29 Lean to the Left a Little. R. Schipper 30 An African Safari. Hamish M. Brown 32 The South Face of the Aiguille de Fou. Wilf Tauber 35 Hillwalking from Cape Wrath to Glasgow. A. G. Cousins . 37 The First Scottish Ice Climbers. Robin N. Campbell 48 P. J. H. Unna and the Mountainous Country Trust. Alex. Harrison 57 Beanntan Glaschu. John Mackenzie 115 Rannoch. G. J. F. Dutton 121 Club Politic. Dennis Gray 122 Old Man’s Mountain. Douglas J. Fraser 129 The Crossing of Ighil M’Goun. Donald Mill 130 Yosemite Appraised. Rab Carrington 136 Theme and Variations. W. P. Ker 138 L. C. & P. Hamish M. Brown 139 All the Way. Russell Sharp 143 Hadrian’s Wall. Ken V. Crocket 147 Hivernal. Allen Fyffe 151 The Separation of Mountains. F. F. Bonsall 153 February Thaw. G. J. F. Dutton 156 Incident at Gamrie Head. Thomas Edward 157 One Below the Belt. Colin Stead 221 Hadrian’s Wall Direct. Neil Quinn 224 The Hills. Robin Gall Inglis 227 An Approach to Reality. Hamish M. Brown 229 The Doctor Returns – Finishing Off a Top. G. J. F. Dutton 232 A Good Clean Break. G. J. F. Dutton 237 Far & Fair. Douglas J. Fraser 242 Personal Impressions While on Mount Kenya. Michael Coleman 243

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Climbers. G. J. F. Dutton 246 The Inscrutable Bregaglia East. Robin N. Campbell 247 Hingi: A Minor Baluchistan Peak. Roger North 251 The Separation of Munros. F. F. Bonsall 254 Stott’s Mountaineering Club. Robin N. Campbell 257 Editorial. Robin N. Campbell 307 J.M.C.S. JUBILEE: 1925-1975 – The Formation of the J.M.C.S. – The Beginning of the J.M.C.S. A. G. Hutchison 309 More Than Fifty Years Ago. R. N. Rutherford 310 Early Days. C. E. Andreae 312 The Glasgow Section – Climbing in the 1920’s. William B. Speirs 316 1935-1940. W. H. Murray 318 1940-1950. A. C. D. Small 322 1948-1953. Stanley Stewart 325 Sixties and Seventies. James G. Messer 327 A Hut at Coruisk. David Whitham 333 The Edinburgh Section – 1925-1939. Bill Myles 337 1945-1963. Mike Fleming 341 1963-1975. Jim Clark 344 The Smiddy, Dundonnell. Jim Clark 346 The Perth Section. J. Grant and J. Rogers 348 Stravagers and Marauders. Robert Aitken 351 Prentice Days. Barclay S. Fraser 358 Reality Recrudescent. Hamish M. Brown 363 Gamblers Atop Eden. G. J. F. Dutton 369 The Craggie. G. J. F. Dutton 370 Reluctant Zero. Ted Maden 376 Bullfighting in Arran. John Mackenzie 380

PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS – The Comb from the Ben Nevis Plateau in 1904 1 P. Gribbon on Tour on Upernivik Island, West Greenland 16 Doug Tompkins on ‘the perfect styrofoam’ of Raven’s Gully, Buachaille 17 Meadow Face, Beinn Tarsuinn, Upper Section 24 Meadow Face, Beinn Tarsuinn, Lower Section 25 Skidmore on Crux of The Blinder, Beinn Tarsuinn 64 J. R. Marshall on the First Ascent of Unicorn, Stob Coire nan Lochan 72 from Crannach Wood 115 The Brown-stained Orangutan Chipper, La Crosse Terrace Walls, Glasgow 118 Finniston Walls Inscriptions, Glasgow 118 The Kelvin Bridge, Glasgow 119

Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 102 Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 Contents

John Mackenzie on Didymograptus, Kelvin Bridge, Glasgow 119 Ighil M’Goun, Atlas Mountains, Morocco 131 The Fortress of Tizi n’Tirist, Atlas Mountains, Morocco 131 The Central Trident Buttress of Carn Dearg of Ben Nevis 186 Stead and Crocket on The Curtain, Carn Dearg of Ben Nevis 187 White Laggan Bothy during Reconstruction 194 Colin Stead in the Great Cave of Minus One Gully 221 Escaping to Reality on the Captain Scott 236 Still Life with Munro, Flute and Whisky: the lounge of the S. S. Erne 236 Beinn Alligin and 237 Iain Rowe on The Hill, Creag Dubh, Newtonmore 252 Paul Brian on the 13th Pitch, Surgeon’s Gully, Ben Nevis 253 Allen Fyffe on Dhaulagiri IV above Camp 2 268 The Approach to Piz Buin, Silvretta Group 269 Ian G. Charleson 284 Kenneth Bryan 284 Mlynara in the Czechoslovakian Tatra 285 A Newcomer to Munro’s Tables – Sgurr nan Saighead, Kintail 307 ‘Where It All Began’ – the Narnain Boulder and the Cobbler Corrie 338 J.M.C.S. New Year Meet, 1931, at Loch Awe 339 The Smiddy, Dundonnell 354 Interior of The Smiddy 355 The Slabs of Beinn Trilleachan, Glen Etive 370 Iain MacLeod on Pitch 2, the Cioch Nose, Sgurr a’Chaorachain 371 Work Party and Dog at C.I.C. Hut, Ben Nevis 386 Young & Peet, Contractors 387

SKETCHES AND DIAGRAMS – Ighil M’Goun Range, Atlas Mountains, Morocco 133

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR – Description of New Climbs, 60 Accident Reporting, 162 New Route Publication Policy, 163 The Squirrels Rights, 164 Footprint of the Gods?, 263 Old Names for New, 382

NEW CLIMBS (SEE INDEX) 65, 165, 264, 383

NOTES (SEE INDEX) 83, 184, 278, 393

SCOTTISH MOUNTAIN ACCIDENTS 90, 193, 285

IN MEMORIAM – Douglas Menzies, 102 Robert A. Peel, 103

Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 103 Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 Contents

A. Ronald G. Burn, 200; John Dow, 200 R. L. Gwilt, 201 George Murray Lawson, 201; John Gordon Lillie, 203 John Alexander Scott, 203; Wilfred Tauber, 203 W. H. Valentine, 205 Ian G. Charleson, 283; Kenneth Bryan, 284 Euan B. Robertson, 407 George M. Smith, 408

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 103, 206, 293, 409

J.M.C.S. REPORTS 106, 207, 295, 411

S.M.C. AND J.M.C.S. ABROAD (SEE INDEX) 61, 209, 299, 414

REVIEWS OF BOOKS 108, 215, 304, 417

OFFICE-BEARERS 114, 218, 306, 422

Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 104 Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 Index

INDEX OF NAMES Notes – (1) Italic type indicates an Article, Letter or Note by the person named; plain type indicates a reference to the person named. Only Articles, Letters and Notes have been indexed. The J.M.C.S. Jubilee number, No. 166, would require a veritable onomasticon and is accordingly only lightly indexed. Choinard, Y., 20 Ahlmann, H. W., 4ff Clark, J., 344ff, 346ff Aitken, R., 351ff Clark, W. Inglis, 50ff, 125 Anderson, A. J., 84, 278, 394 Clarkson, J., 189, 341ff, 346ff Andreae, C. E., 312ff Cohen, G., 393 Armour-Brown, 87 Coleman, M., 243ff Athole, 352-3 Collie, N., 48ff Baird, P. D., 11ff Corbett, J. Rooke, 282 Baker, E. A., 357 Cousins, A. G., 37ff, 88, 192, 363 Balfour, J. H., 351ff Crawford, J., 25ff Barbour, W. G., 282 Crocket, K. V., 86, 147ff, 184, 185, 186, Barclay, B., 243ff 221ff, 376ff, 394, 395 Barley, R., 85 Crymble, S., 30ff Bartholomew, B., 337 Culross, W., 308 Beattie, W., 88 Dansey, R. P., 4 Bell, J. H., 50 Davidson, C, 88 Bell, J. H. B., 21 Dewar, F. J., 257 Bennet, A. J., 189 Dick, L., 89 Bennet, D. J., 193 Dinwoodie, D., 83, 185, 186, 279 Bertram, C, 89 Dixon, D., 192 Blackie, J. S., 353 Docherty, S., 84, 185 Bonsall, F. R, 153ff, 254ff, 382 Donald, P., 153 Brooder, A., 84 Donaldson, J. C, 282, 403ff Brooker, W. D., 264 Donaldson, W., 42 Brown, H. M., 32ff, 83, 87, 130ff, 139ff, Douglas, W., 229 190, 229ff, 282, 363ff Downs, G., 87 Brown, W., 50 Drasdo, H., 3 Bryce, J., 127, 355ff Duckworth, I., 393 Buchan, A., 15 Dudgeon, D., 89 Butterfield, I., 87 Duff, D. G., 87 Byrne, S., 89 Duff, J., 188 Campbell, I. M., 190, 406 Dunn, B., 164 Campbell, R. N., 1ff, 21ff, 48ff, 185, 186, Dutton, G. J. F., 1ff, 23ff, 29, 87, 121, 156, 247ff, 257ff, 307ff 232ff, 246, 308, 369, 370ff Campbell, T. F. S., 257 Edridge, B. K. E., 189 Carrington, R, 24ff, 85, 136ff Edward, T., 157ff Carter, W. G., 87 Edwards, P., 87 Champion, D. L., 11 Fleming, M., 341ff Chisholm, G., 247 Fraser, B. S., 358ff

Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 105 Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 Index

Fraser, D. J., 19, 129, 242 Macphee, G. G., 5ff Fulton, I., 186 Macpherson, D., 354 Fyffe, A., 151ff, 281 McVean, D., 11 Geddes, M., 186 Maden, B. E. H., 376ff Gibson, J. H., 22 Manley, G., 4ff, 85 Gilbert, R., 87 Mantz, A., 247 Gordon, S., 4 March, W., 85 Grant, J., 348ff Marshall, D., 25 Gray, D., 122ff Marshall, J. R., 21ff, 185, 308, 341ff Gribbon, P., 15ff, 280 Maylard, A. E., 124 Hann, J., 7ff Mear, R., 35ff Harrison, A., 59ff, 190 Menzies, D., 87 Higgins, C, 24ff, 86 Messer, J., 307, 327ff Hinde, J., 44 Mill, D., 130ff Hirst, J., 189 Moar, M. H., 188 Hodge, E. W., 188, 189 Monro, D., 334 Humble, B., 88, 162 Mothersele, J., 279, 280 Hunter, K. K., 312 Muir, N., 84, 85, 185 Hutchison, A. G., 309ff, 310ff, 312ff Munro, H. T., 153 Imboden, L., 139ff Murray, W. H., 318ff Inglis, R. Gall, 190, 191, 229ff, 283, 394, Murray-Rust, P., 247ff 402, 404, 405 Myles, W., 307, 337ff Johnston, R., 2 Naismith, W. W., 52ff Jones, W. H., 86, 308 Nicholson, I., 85, 185, 186, 394 Keats, J., 5 Nisbet, A., 189 Ker, W. P., 138, 140 North, R, 251ff Kerr, W., 89 Nunn, P., 83, 84, 279 Lamb, H. H., 13 O’Donovan, R., 83 Lang, D., 185, 224ff Ogilvie, I. H., 189 Lawrie, B., 185 Osborne, J., 337ff Lawson, A., 130ff Paisley, J., 88 Leslie, R., 89 Parker, J. A., 50ff Lester, W. R., 257 Peet, G., 331 Lillie, G., 326-7 Pennant, T., 13ff Ling, W. N., 21 Philidius, E., 55 Little, G., 88 Pococke, Bishop, 5 MacArthur, D., 186 Popham, R., 376S McArtney, J., 123 Poucher, W. A., 193 Macdonald, A., 186 Quinn, N, 224ff Macdonald, P. F., 144, 163 Rae, I., 87 Maclnnes, H., 38 Raeburn, H., 53ff McKeith, A., 186, 283 Ramsay, G. G., 23, 48, 52, 127 Mackenzie, J., 83, 115ff, 186, 380ff Regan, D., 185 Mackinnon, L., 335 Richards, R., 244ff

Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 106 Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 Index

Robbins, R, 20 Taplin, R., 83 Roberts, E., 130ff Tauber, W., 35ff, 83, 85, 86, 189, 281 Roberts, P., 282 Thomson, E. C, 282 Robertson, A. E., 358 Tiso, G., 89 Robertson, B. W., 30 Tompkins, D., 20 Robertson, E., 87 Unna, P. J. H., 21, 57ff, 59ff Roger, G. S., 87, 282 Wallace, G. M., 83 Rogers, J., 348ff Wallace, W. M., 26 Rouse, A., 186 Walton, R. D., 189 Rowe, I. G., 151ff, 193, 280, 281, 308, 393 Watson, Jnr., A., 187, 382 Rowland, C, 394 Watson, Snr., A., 187 Rusk, A., 309ff, 312ff, 337 Watt, A. S., 13 Russell, A., 357 Wescott, F., 364 Rutherford, R. N., 30ff, 310ff, 312ff Whitham, D., 333ff Saddler, D., 144 Wilkinson, G., 331 Schipper, B., 30ff Winans, W. L., 353 Schwartz K., 84, 85, 279 Wright, B., 280 Scott, W., 258 Young, G. W., 128 Seligman, G., 4ff Shanwani, M., 251ff Sharp, R., 60, 84, 143ff Shields, G., 143ff Sinatra, F. A., 143ff Sinclair, P., 3 Skidmore, W., 24ff Slesser, M., 86 Small, A. C. D., 322ff Smart, I. H. M., 86, 188, 308 Smith, D., 144 Smith, D., 282 Smith, G. M., 87 Smith, P. Drummond, 334 Smith, R., 126 Speirs, W. B., 316ff Spink, P. C, 4 Sproul, W., 86 Squirrels, The, 164 Stead, C, 147ff, 186, 221ff, 279, 377ff, 394, 395ff Stewart, J. S., 325ff Stott, J. G., 257ff Strange, G. S., 83, 84, 279, 280 Stuart, D., 85, 279 Sunderland, S., 88

Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 107 Volume 30 [XXX; Nos. 163-166] 1972–1975 Index

INDEX OF SUBJECTS Notes – (1) Page numbers in heavy type refer to New Climbs, in italic type to Articles or Letters and in plain type to Notes. (2) Only Articles, Letters, New Climbs and Notes have been indexed. Access to Mountains, 351-358 Accident Reporting, 162

AFRICA – Atlas Mts., 130ff Drakensberg Range, 33 Kilimanjaro, 34 Mt. Kenya, 243ff Mulanje Mt., 33 Table Mountain, 32

ALPS – Aiguille des Courtes, 151ff Aiguille de Fou, 35ff Castor, 139ff Cima Zocca, 247ff Lyskamm, 139ff Monte della Disgrazia, 248ff Pollux, 139ff Punta da l’Albigna, 247

ARRAN – A’Chir, 384 Beinn Tarsuinn, 24ff, 66, 269, 384, 393 Caisteal Abhail, 66, 166, 268 Cioch na h-Oighe, 67 Cir Mhor, 66, 380ff Goatfell, 269

ASIA – Dhaulagiri (Nepal), 281 Hingi (Baluchistan), 251ff

BEN NEVIS REGION – Ben Nevis, 49ff, 55ff, 73-4, 85, 147ff, 175-6, 185-6, 222ff, 224ff, 275-6, 376ff, 389, 394 Carn Dearg, 75-6, 85, 86, 176, 275 C.I.C. Hut Extension, 394 Climate of, 4ff Meall Cumhann, 76 Polldubh Crags, 76-7 Boats, Bicycles and Bens, 230ff

CAIRNGORMS –

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Beinn a’Bhuird, 67, 172, 272-3, 386 Beinn Macdhui, 68, 172, 272, 386, 394 Bennachie, 227ff Braeriach, 69, 172 Braeriach South Plateau, 382 Broad Cairn, 71, 84, 173-4, 185, 273, 274, 280, 387 Buck of Cabrach, 394 Cairngorm, 69-70, 84-5, 172, 273, 280, 387 , 272, 387 Climate of, 13 Craigellachie, 395 Disaster of 1971, 88 Gamrie Head, 157ff , 187 Glen Feshie, 185 Lochnagar, 85, 174-5, 185, 273-4, 279, 388 Mayar, 71, 175, 388 Pass of , 85 Red Craigs (Glen Clova), 72 Rubislaw Quarry, 72 Tap o’ Noth, 227ff White Mounth, 73, 175, 273, 388

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS – Aonach Beag, 86 Aonach Mor, 86 Beinn Eunaich, 21 ff Binnein Shuas, 80, 180 Creag Chathalain, 85 Creag Doire na h’Aclaise, 85 Creag Dubh, 80, 180-1, 186, 389 Creag Meaghaidh, 81-2, 181, 186, 277, 280, 389 Sgurr a’Mhaim, 81 Changes of Office, 86, 193 Clarkson Memorial Hut, 189, 346-7 and Safety Belts, 189 Donald Duff Memorial Exhibition, 87, 281 Eagle Ski Club Jubilee, 282

GLENCOE REGION – Aonach Dubh, 78, 177, 186, 276 Beinn Chaorach, 177 Beinn Trilleachan, 30-1, 77, 178, 280 Bidean nam Bian, 178 Buachaille Etive Mor, 20, 53-4, 78, 178-9, 277, 390

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Garbh Bheinn, 79, 277, 395 Gearr Aonach, 177, 179-80, 389 Stob Coire nan Lochan, 79, 177, 186, 277

GREENLAND – Upernivik, Island, 15ff – Early History, 48ff Grading Systems, 395-6 Snow Anchors, Use of, 89-90

ISLANDS (EXCEPT ARRAN AND SKYE) – Aird Fenish Head, 286 Ben Luskentyre, 184 Creag Dhubh Dhibadail, 383, 393 Creag Mo, 165 Garry Bay, 83, 268 Griomoval, 60, 267 Islivig, 83 Mealisval, 165 Rhum, 83, 268, 278, 383 St. Kilda, 189 Sgoran Dubh Theinneasbhal, 165 Sron ri Gaoith, 83, 267 Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland, Jubilee – Edinburgh Section, 337-47 GlasgowSection, 316-36 Origins of Club, 309-15 Perth Section, 348-50 Library, 190-1, 405-6 Members – Doings of elderly, 87, 190, 406 Honours received by, 88

MUNROS, THE – Completions, 87, 189, 282, 405 Munroology, 153ff, 254ff, 282, 405 Scotblob, 188 The Great Traverse, 37ff, 88, 363ff Mountainous Country Trust, 57 Mountain Politics, 122ff, 396ff

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS – Beinn Airidh a’Charr, 168 Beinn Bhan, 384 Beinn a’Chasgein Mor, 168

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Beinn Dearg, 394 Beinn Eigne, 185, 269, 384 Beinn Laoghal, 263, 385 Beinn a’Mhuinidh, 168-9 Clo Mhor, 83, 279 Cnoc a’Mhadaidh, 84 Creag na Faolinn, 170 Creag Mhor Thollaidh, 170, 385 Creag Riabhach, 279, 394 Creag Shomhairle, 170 Creag Staonsaid, 84 Fionaven 171, 270, 279, 385 Fuar Tholl, 143ff, 166, 185 Gruinard Bay, 84, 278, 394 Inchnadamph, 185 Liathach, 394 Maol Cheann Dearg, 167 Meall Gorm, 167 A’Mhaighdean, 188 Quinag, 171 Seana Bhraigh, 270 Sgurr a’Chaorachain, 167-8, 385 Sgurr nan Clach Geala, 172, 270, 385 Sgurr a’Ghlas Leathaid, 394 Stac Pollaidh, 172, 386 New Route Description, 60, 103-4, 264-7 Rights of Way, 351-8 Sang Award, 191-2, 280-1

SKYE – Blaven, 268 Coruisk Hut, 333-6 Fiscavaig, 83, 166 Main Ridge Traverse, 87 Sgurr Coire an Lochain, 393 Sgurr a’Mhadaidh, 83 Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, 67, 383 Sgurr Sgumain, 67, 83 Sgurr Thuilm, 67 Sron na Ciche, 83 Talisker Bay, 166

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS – Beinn an Dothaidh, 182, 392 Beinn Dubh, 182, 278

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Ben More, 52 Bonskeid Crag, 182 The Brack, 278 A’Chrois, 183 The Cobbler, 86, 395 Craig-y-Barns, 82 Creag Tharsuinn, 392, 395 Creag Varr, 86, 183 Dumbarton Rock, 392 Dunleacan, 86 Glasgow, Climbing Grounds of, 115ff Glen Lednock, 82, 183, 390-2 Lang Craigs, Dumbarton, 278 Loch Humphrey Crag, 184 The Whangie, 184

SOUTHERN UPLANDS – Fast Castle Head, 393 White Laggan Bothy, 191-2 Tramps, J. G. Stott and The, 257ff Unna’s Rules, 59

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA – Yosemite, 136ff

WESTERN HIGHLANDS – Biod an Fhitich (Bundalloch), 84, 271 Creagan Duilisg (Plockton), 84 Glen Pean Bothy, 280-1 Ladhar Bheinn, 271 Meall nan Con (Ardnamurchan), 279 Meall Doire na Mnatha (Ardgour), 279 Meall nan Eun (Knoydart), 271 Meall an Fhir-eoin (Ardnamurchan), 279

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