Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents Volume 21 (1936-1938) Edited by J. H. B. Bell CONTENTS ARTICLES The Late King George V 1 Editorial 2, 274 Scottish Mountaineering and its Relation to Mountaineering Abroad :– The General Aspect. By W. N. Ling 5 Remarks on Snow and Ice Conditions. By G. G. Macphee 85 Some Contrasts. By G. A. Solly 173 Rock Climbing. By E. A. M. Wedderburn 247 Scenery and Photography. By H. Gardner Ski-running. By H. MacRobert 379 No Chimney Corner. By R. S. H. 8 Days that are Past. By J. G. Inglis 9, 178 Man, it’s Great! By D. Myles 15 The Campsie Fells. By J. N. Orr 18 Twelve Hours Up. By J. K. W. Dunn 34 Hummel Doddies. By B. H. Humble 27 Benighted on the Moor of Rannoch. By W. J. G. F. 29, 165 The “Ben Nevis Guide Book” 37 The Spell of Ben Lui. By C. R. P. Vandeleur 93 Sealladh Bho Eigne. By R. S. H 100 Beinn Mhor, South Uist. By J. MacLennan 101 The North-west Renfrewshire Hills. By G. F. Todd 105, 192 Sunrise from Ben More. By G. R. Roxburgh 110 Agag’s Groove. By A. C. D. Small 112 Joys of the Hut. By J. L. Aikman 163 Initiative in Climbing. By J. H. B. Bell 187 High Coolin Dawn. By B. H. Humble 197 Defeat. By W. H. Murray 237 A Dog’s Day. By R. Anderson 245 Under the Western Horizon. By E. W. Hodge 255 Recent Climbs in Coire Ardair:— Introduction. By J. H. B. Bell 262 The Pinnacle Buttress. By E. A. M. Wedderburn 263 The Centre Post. By J. H. B. Bell 399 The North Post. By I. H. Ogilvie 403 The Rocks North of the Posts. By I. H. Ogilvie 405 Chi! Chi! Chi! By J. G. Inglis 267 Glen Coe and Glen Etive and the National Trust for Scotland. By A. W. Russell 269 Old Numbers of the Journal. By R. M. G. Inglis 271, 339 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 1 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents A Sunset. By R. S. H. 276 The Friendly Road. By T. R. Barnett 320 The Galloway Hills. By J. Dow 327 Fourteen Hours on the Observatory Ridge. By W. M. Mackenzie 337 Mist. By J. Cummings 359 Cobbler Calling. By B. H. Humble 392 Keats and Ben Nevis. By W. Garden 407 The Great Gully of Sgor nam Fiannaidh. By W. H. Murray 414 ILLUSTRATIONS— Loch Etive and Ben Starav 1 Falls of Glomach—The Chasm 14 Man, it’s Great! 15 The Blanefield Face of the Campsie Fells 20 William Wilson Naismith 40 Winifred’s Pinnacle, Bidean nam Bian 50 On Beinn Laoigh 54 The Cruachan Horseshoe 55 Brocken Spectre, Liathach 85 Beinn Laoigh from shoulder of Beinn Dubhcraig 93 Beinn Mhor, South Uist 101 Agag’s Groove, Buachaille Etive 112 S.M.C. at Sligachan 122 Bruach na Frithe 122 Loch Coruisk and Sgurr Dubh 126 The Sunlit Ridge, Na Gruagaichean 150 Frozen Waterfall, Carn Dearg North-West, Ben Nevis 163 Ben Achallader from Crannach Wood 165 A Pine Forest, the Monadhliaths 178 Sunset from A’ Chioch 197 Dawn on the North-East Buttress, Ben Nevis 200 Lochaber and Loch Leven from Sgurr Dearg Ben Vair 216 The Tinto Indicator 222 Ben Nevis, North-East Buttress 237 Looking South from the Easains 244 Macleod’s Maidens 255 Village Bay and Dun Island, St. Kilda 260 Macleod’s Maidens 260 The Pinnacle Buttress, Coire Ardair (Sketch) 264 J. H. Bell 278 Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis ; Exit of South Castle Gully 281 Ben Nevis – Coire Leis and the C.I.C. Hut 282 Ben More, Mull, from Mullach nan Coirean 307 Alpine Sunrise 310 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 2 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents On Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan 314 Ailama 314 Monte Rosa from the Rimpfischhorn 315 Sail Mhor, Ben Eighe, from Liathach 315 Loch Etive and Ben Nevis from Taynuilt Peak, Ben Cruachan 318 An Alp, Typical of Switzerland 319 A Sea Loch, Typical of Scotland 319 The East End of Loch Affric 322 The Murder Hole of Loch Neldricken from the North 328 Mullwharchar and Merrick Ranges from North-East 329 Loch Doon from the South 329 Church Door Buttress, Western Edge 341 Ben Macdhui, Ski-ing 379 Ski-ing on Stob Coire an Lochain 382, 383 Stob Coire Sputan Dearg, Ben Macdhui 387 Ski Club Hut, Beinn Ghlas 390 Ski-ing on Sgoran Dubh Mor 390 Scottish Ski-ing Country 391 Swiss Ski-ing Country 391 South Peak of the Cobbler 394 The Cliffs of Coire Ardair (Sketch) 398 The Cliffs of Coire Ardair 404 Jericho Wall, Great Gully, Sgor nam Fiannaidh 414 Stac Lii; St Kilda Village ; Conachair ; Western Horizons 430 IN MEMORIAM— W. W. Naismith. By Gilbert Thomson 40 H. Cockburn. By J. H. B. Bell 45 Prof. J. E. A. Steggall. By H. W. Turnbull 46 A. I. M’Connochie. By Wm. Garden and E. A. Baker 47 L. W. Hinxman. By T. F. S. Campbell 117 Sir F. O. Schuster. By G. A. Solly 118 H. C. Boyd. By J. H. Bell 119 W. Low. By C. W. Walker 121 W. Brunskill. By W. Barrow 213 J. Grove. By W. Nelson 214 G. L. Collins. By G . A. Solly 215 J. Rennie. By A. E. Maylard 277 J. H. Bell. By W. N. Ling 278 F. C. Squance. By Gilbert Thomson 279 G. B. Gibbs. By W. A. Mounsey 280 Dr C. Wilson. By W. N. Ling 357 M. Matheson. By D. Mackay 358 H. F. B. Sharp. By C. W. Walker 358 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 3 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Contents T. F. S. Campbell. By R. A. Robertson 418 J. G. Stott. By R. A. Robertson 421 D. A. Archie. By Gilbert Thomson 422 P. Donald. By A. Harrison 423 T. J. Gibson. By A. E. Robertson 424 NEW CLIMBS 49, 200, 341, 427 NOTES AND EXCURSIONS 68, 132, 222, 286, 366, 429 S.M.C. ABROAD 68,137,292,436 REVIEWS 71, 144, 224, 296, 368, 439 PROCEEDINGS OF THE CLUB 54, 122, 216, 281, 360, 425 JUNIOR MOUNTAINEERING CLUB OF SCOTLAND 74, 150, 231, 302, 374, 446 ERRATA Page 300, line 6, for “ Mercanton “ read “ Montandon. Page 333, line 8, for “ 331-333 “ read “ 330-332.” Page 334, line 4, end of line, for “ II “ read “ III.” Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 4 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index Names of Authors Aikman, J. L.: Joys of the Hut, 163 Aikman, J. L.: Warning to Hill Walkers, 222 Aitken, D.: Rock-fall in Arran, 290 Anderson, A.: Agag’s Groove, 204 Anderson, A.: Chasm, Buachaille Etive, 135 Anderson, R.: A Dog’s Day, 245 Anonymous: J.M.C.S., First Ten Years, 150 B., J.: The Cuillin Ridge, 306 Bamett, Rev. T. R.: The Friendly Road, 320 Bell, J. : Aonach Dubh via Pleasant Terrace, 49 Bell, J. H. B.: Amphitheatre, Aonach Dubh, 50 Bell, J. H. B.: Braeriach Pinnacles, 434 Bell, J. H. B.: Buachaille Etive, Central Buttress, 134 Bell, J. H. B.: Coire Ardair, Centre Post, 399 Bell, J. H. B.: Coire Ardair, Recent Climbs, introduction, 262 Bell, J. H. B.: Green Gully, The Comb, Ben Nevis, 350 Bell, J. H. B.: Initiative in Climbing, 187 Bell, J. H. B.: Observatory Buttress, Left Wall, 202 Bell, J. H. B.: Observatory Ridge, West Face, 352 Bell, J. H. B.: Rubicon Wall, Ben Nevis, 434 Bell, J. H. B.: South Trident Buttress, Ben Nevis, 136, 433 Bell, J. H. B.: Stob Coire an Lochain, Bidean, 134 Bell, J. H. B.: Zero Gully, Ben Nevis, 200 Brown, R.: Upper Couloir, Stob Ghabhar, and Brocken Spectres, 305 Cummings, J.: Mist, 359 Dow, J.: The Galloway Hills, 327 Dunn, J. K. W.: Twelve Hours Up, 24 F., W. J. G.: Benighted on the Moor of Rannoch, 29, 165 Frere, R.: Gullies of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean, 354 Garden, W.: Keats and Ben Nevis, 407 Gardner, H.: Scenery and Photography, 307 Gibbs, G. B.: Letter re Ossian’s Cave, 68 Gilmour, W. A. : Climbs on Aonach Dubh, West Face, 433 Hamilton, J. F.: Agag’s Groove, 204 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 5 Volume 21 [XXI; Nos. 121-126] 1936–1938 Index Hamilton, J. F.: Central Buttress, Coire Mhic Fhearchair, 211 Higgins, R. S.: No Chimney Corner, 8 Higgins, R. S.: Sealladh Bho Eighe, 100 Hodge, E. W.: Garbh Chioch Mor, 289 Hodge, E. W.: Sea Mountaineering, 429 Hodge, E. W.: Under the Western Horizon, 255 Humble, B. H.: Cobbler Calling, 392 Humble, B. H.: Coronation Day on Ben Nevis, 289 Humble, B. H.: High Coolin Dawn, 197 Humble, B. H.: Hummel Doddies, 27 Humble, B. H.: Mountain Accidents in Scotland, 290 Inglis, J. G.: “Chi! Chi! Chi!” 267 Inglis, J. G.: Days that are Past (1882), 9, 178 Inglis, R. M. G.: Old Numbers of the Journal, 271, 339 Ling, W. N.: General Aspect of Scottish Mountaineering to Mountaineering Abroad, 5 Macdonald, J. Y.: The Compass— A Warning to Photographers, 435 Macdonald, J. Y.: Height of Angel’s Peak and Neighbouring Cols, 288 Mackenzie, W. M.: Buachaille, Central Buttress, 286 Mackenzie, W. M.: Sgurr Alasdair, variation of Abraham’s Route, 286 Mackenzie, W. M.: Rubicon Wall, Ben Nevis, variation of final pitches, 287 Mackenzie, W. M.: Fourteen Hours on Observatory Ridge, 337 Mackinnon, T. D. : Stob Coire nam Beith, 205 MacLennan, J.: Ben Mhor, South Uist, 101 Macphee, G.