THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINTER 2018 UNDER THE ARIZONA SUN CARNEROS, AGAIN THE WIDOW CLIQUOT TEMPRANILLO VIDAL BLANC WITHOUT A WINERY RIESLING MASTER CLASS AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2018 | 1 Questions? Contact our National Conference Chair - Diane Meyer [email protected] or 937.558.6559 americanwinesociety.org 2 | WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG features 4 | Jim Rink 22 | J. Stephen Casscles Editor’s Note Vidal Blanc — The Workhorse Grape In this issue of the Journal we look Vidal Blanc, also known as Vidal 256, is a westward at some interesting agricultural workhorse grape variety for the eastern developments that, with or without a mas- United States. The reason for its work- 6 ter plan, certainly have transformed the face horse status is that it yields ample crops of the wine industry in at least two states. and produces quality wines. 6 | George Medovoy 24 | Kristine Austin Under the Arizona Sun Making Wine Without a Winery SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA — I couldn’t have This article is for those of us who either picked a better place to discover cannot afford to, or don’t want to, Arizona’s fascinating wine industry – and so purchase rows of stainless steel fermen- much more. ters, bladder presses, and glycol units. 10 | Roger Morris 27 | Eric Miller 10 Carneros, Again Finger Lakes (FLX) Riesling Master Class Duhig Road veers off from Route 12 and heads south, splitting in half this hilly region It’s good to have friends in high places. where Napa and Sonoma valleys come You get to lead tours to wine areas you together at the foot of the Mayacamas otherwise couldn’t afford to visit. You Mountains before both fizzle out into the get to meet your heroes, like Robert marshlands bordering San Pablo Bay. Mondavi and Pierre Clape. 15 | Review by Madeleine Vedel 30 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW The Widow Cliquot: The Story 21 Wines to Watch of a Champagne Empire 15 and the Woman Who Ruled It In her continuing column, Ellen Landis selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any Who was the Widow Cliquot? How did she occasion or celebration. build her champagne empire at a time when women rarely were given the reins 32 | Jim Rink of a business, and Europe was nearly New or Noteworthy perpetually in turmoil? According to MyNorth News Service, on 17 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW October 19, 2018, the most prestigious Tempranillo: A Global award at the 19th Annual Canberra Favorite Taking Root in Oregon International Riesling Challenge (CIRC)— Best Wine of the 2018 Challenge—was Would it surprise you to learn that given to a Michigan wine: Black Star Farms 17 Tempranillo is one the top five grape 2017 Arcturos Dry Riesling. varieties planted across the entire globe? And that Tempranillo vineyards are increasingly being planted across the Pacific Northwest? All true. 27 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2018 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 50 NO. 4 · WINTER 2018 Published by “The history of American agriculture suggests that you The American Wine Society, can have transformation without a master plan, a non-profit corporation, PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 without knowing all the answers up front.” Single copies $5.00 — Atul Gawande Copyright © 2018 by AWS, Inc. Reproduction or use of the editorial n this issue of the Journal we look westward at some interesting agricultural or pictorial content without written developments that, with or without a master plan, certainly have transformed permission is prohibited. I the face of the wine industry in at least two states. Library of Congress Class Number: TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Our very own sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, takes a look at Tempranillo, an Publisher Old World grape taking root in Oregon. And Roger Morris revisits a renaissance in David Falchek Carneros, which has learned to embrace its unique “above ground” terroir, ending Editor its quest to emulate Burgundy. Jim Rink Contributing Writers On the travel front, George Medovoy recently spent some time in Scottsdale, Kristine Austin, J. Stephen Casscles, Arizona, where he experienced three of the state’s “treasured assets:” its emerging Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, George Medovoy, wine industry, the world of tequila and great cuisine. Eric Miller, Roger Morris, Jim Rink, Madeleine Vedel Kristine Austin has some advice for home winemakers in her article titled, Editorial Office How to Make Wine Without a Winery. Here’s one secret: Use old wine barrels for Jim Rink 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive fermentation and for added complexity, make small batches of the same wine Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 in different ways for blending later. [email protected] BECOME A Unsolicited manuscripts or other Stephen Casscles gives us the inside story on a “workhorse grape” known as information will not be returned unless Vidal Blanc, and Madeleine Vedel reviews a book titled: The Widow Cliquot: accompanied by return postage. The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It. This is a book Advertising Office about a woman, and a tumultuous time in history; it’s an extraordinary tale of PO Box 889 perseverance and success. Scranton, PA 18501 888-AWS-9070 Eric Miller recently attended a Riesling master class crafted by the Finger Lakes (fax) 570.344.4825 executivedirector@ Wine Alliance. Eric provides some background on the Finger Lakes (FLX), the Wine americanwinesociety.org Alliance and offers some wine descriptions and recommendations. | Creative Production 404.925.2677 For our finale, we have “21 Wines to Watch.” In this issue, Ellen features wines from The Blue Guy, LLC Michigan, New York and Oregon. Bottle prices in this issue’s collection range from [email protected] $17 to $125. theblueguy.com Stay thirsty, 4 | WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Kristin Casler Kraft Tom Wallman Member Services Director of Jay Bileti Vice President Educational Services Joe Broski Executive Director AWS ACTIVITIES Aaron Mandel David Falchek AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Secretary Director of Competitions monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Leanne Wheeler Joe Dautlick cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–1970 1991 2002 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg 1971–1972 1992 2003 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann J. Randy Hurteau Frank C. Aquilino chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–1974 1993 2004 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Carl W. Damoth Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker 1975–1976 1994 2005 AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Jerry S. Miller George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo 1977–78 1995 2006 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Kenneth P. Brewer Janice Cobett 1979–1980 1996 2007 AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and Joseph P. Nardone Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Albert L. Guber, Jr. extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, 1981–1982 1997 2008-2009 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent John M. Hasson Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1983–1984 1998 2010-2011 Michael A. Farren Gary C. Pavlis Willis L. Parker appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at 1985–1986 1999 2012-2014 connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by Lewis H. France, Jr. Gayle M. Darugh Jane M. Duralia the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1987–1988 2000 2015-2016 Thomas C. 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