sign in sign up
<<
Home , Calf of Eday, Eday, Eynhallow, Faray, Flag of Orkney, Helliar Holm

ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:38 Page 474

NORTH ISLES - EDAY - “THE ISTHMUS ISLE” t

h mum height of 101m at the g i r

y Ward Hill (HY552300), p o

c from which there is an n w

o excellent panoramic view of r

C the . There are also good panoramas from Flaughton Hill (HY554320, 100m), Vinquoy Hill (HY561385, 76m) and the Red Head (HY570405, 70m). Because of its central position Eday has good Aerial view of Eday from the northwest - The Calf and Calf Sound are on the left, the isthmus is in the centre views in all directions. This He asked his wife, of whom interior was divided by - over the east-facing entrance position was convenient in he was not overfond, to stones and he entrance faced passage and The roof lintels the past when much jump onto the end of the west. The lower chamber is form the floor of the upper was exported to other peat- stone to assist with rocking still intact, but is normally chamber. less islands as fuel. it into position. Her sub- full of water. The well-built stantial weight was suffi- interior is rectangular and The restored Vinquoy cham- Age The Stone of cient to move the stone, but divided into three compart- bered cairn (HY560381, Setter (HY564371) is one of as she jumped up and down ments by two pairs of 72m) is near the top of the 's most spectacular she overbalanced and fell upright which eponymous hill and has a standing stones, its ancient into the hole, closely fol- almost touch the roof. There fine view to the south. This appearance and height lowed by the monolith. The is an extra compartment -type tomb is (4.5m) adding to the drama stone was secured upright of its central location over- The Stone of Setter is the tallest monolith in Orkney with stones and the wife looking Calf Sound. It is allegedly remains beneath it EDAY (ON Eid-ey, Isthmus only takes 's placed at a focal point in the to this day. Isle) Formed mostly from Islander aircraft, not island landscape and can be Middle , Boeings, and is situated near seen from most of the cham- Braeside Eday is less fertile, and has the Bay of (ON bered cairns. This standing (HY536375) has been much much more peat cover than Lund-inn, Woodland, HY564342). stone has luckily so far robbed but is a small tripar- the other North Isles. The The name suggests that there escaped the attention of tite Orkney- type red sandstone is exposed in may have been trees here in those who steam-cleaned the cairn. Interestingly the pas- spectacular cliffs at the Red Norse times. Certainly at Brodgar and sage is at a slight angle to Head (HY570405). Eday low ebbs the remains of stones, and it is still covered the axis of the cairn, and freestone, from a quarry trees can be seen at the Bay with a marvellous selection directly faces the Stone of near Fersness (HY536336), of Mussetter, which is just of lichens. is said to have been used in across the isthmus which Setter. Two pairs of stalls and the upright back stone the building of St Magnus gives the island its name. Due to weathering the remain, while traces of the Cathedral. monolith resembles a walls can be made out. Like , Eday has a hand, but local lore has it The island also has its own hilly centre with agricultural that it was put there by a Nearby, Huntersquoy London Airport! This one land around the shores. laird. He had carefully pre- chambered cairn (HY562377) Most of the cultivated land pared the socket and the is on two levels and is simi- London Airport is at the south end, and in the stone was in place on an lar to on north on the shores of Calf earth ramp ready to slide Rousay. The upper chamber Sound. The island is 12km into position, but despite is largely gone, but is of the (7.5 miles) long and 3km (2 strenuous efforts his men Bookan-type, where the miles) wide, with a maxi- were not able to move it.

474 475 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:38 Page 476

NORTH ISLES - EDAY EDAY - “THE ISTHMUS ISLE”

There is a burnt S M H

mound exposed by a small A C

stream at Warness R (HY553285), where burnt stones once used for cooking can be seen. Eday has sev- eral other burnt mounds indicating a considerable population at that time. Church chambered cairn is largely destroyed Spiral-marked stone from Church chambered cairn Iron Age, and Norse fortified house here, over Calf Sound. It became quently of Carrick, a Braeside chambered cairn faces the stone of Setter Eday is unique while parts of walls, midden famous as the penultimate title he was allowed to take among the larger islands in built of large blocks of red turf. Good examples are at and artefacts which may scene of a latter day pirate by renaming his property at having no obvious sandstone and has two pairs Linkataing (HY554393), date from the Neolithic to drama in 1725, when Calf Sound, in 1630. Lands site. However the Castle of of side chambers, which where a dyke can be traced Norse times have been “Pirate Gow” was captured were conveyed to him in Stacklebrae (HY564288) at have low entrances and are for 350m, enclosing a pre- found here. The name by his one time school mate 1632 by Charles I and the south end may well be rectangular in plan. The historic roundhouse. A sad- Veness (ON Ve-ness, Holy and owner of Carrick, James formed into the grand- concealing a multiperiod cells are about 1.5m high, dle quern can be seen in the Headland) is also interest- Fea, and surrendered to the sounding “ of settlement site. Similarities while the main chamber ruins. Two standing stones ing, suggesting the presence authorities. Carrick”. to ruins at Tuquoy in reaches nearly 3m. The and a stalled tomb are on the of a chapel here either in suggest that there east-facing entrance passage slope above. early Viking times or later. The original building of John Stewart (b. c1568) was may have been an important is about 4m long. The southeast end of Eday is 1633 includes the low, crow- the third son of Earl Robert

Further remains of dykes S quite fertile, while both the stepped part of the house, Stewart and Jean Kennedy. M

Bronze Age The Fold of can be made out round the H Bay of Greentoft and courtyard and arched gate- The four brothers did not A

C Bay are excellent way to the sea. The builder seem to be very friendly, and Setter (HY564375) is a ruined United Presbyterian R Bronze Age enclosure 85m Church (HY558325) which places to keep boats. was John Stewart, brother of 1596 John was tried in in diameter, possibly used was built in 1831 using Patrick Stewart, under for “consulting for livestock. Eday has a stones quarried from a large Scottish Connection whom he was “Master (heir) with Alyson Balfour, and large number of sub-peat nearby cairn. A broken spi- Carrick House has a fine of Orkney”. He was created Witch, for the destructioune dykes, many of which have ral-marked stone was saved setting, with a superb view Lord Kinclaven and subse- of Patrik Erll of Orkney by been revealed by peat cut- here, the rest of which is pre- Vinquoy chambered cairn interior showing cells Vinquoy chambered cairn interior showing cell and entry ting, suggesting that it may sumably somewhere in the have been much more fertile abandoned church. It is in the past before the peat somewhat ironic that the started to form around tomb survived for 5,000 1000BC. These dykes can be years, but its nemesis did not seen in several banks, often last for 100! partly exposed above the Plan of Braeside chambered cairn Huntersquoy chambered cairn lower entrance Plan of Huntersquoy chambered cairn upper level S M H A C R

476 477 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:38 Page 478

NORTH ISLES - EDAY EDAY - “THE ISTHMUS ISLE”

tablet set in the wall is thought to have come some thirty years later from Sound, when the estate was owned by Arthur Buchanan. The house can be visited by arrangement with Mrs Joy, Tel (01857) 622260.

Redhouse (HY556385), Carrick, Calf Sound and the Red Head above Papleyhouse, at the north end of Eday, is a 19th century , which over- looks the Sound of . It consists of a dwelling house with byres, a barn, stable Veness from the east and other outbuildings, all of at the edge of the Mill Eday Heritage Walk, in the (HY560288), where there is a which are substantially (HY564368) from which north of the island, starts from good beach. This signposted intact. It is in the process of excellent views may be had. the shop and takes in the hide walk follows the shore and renovation and makes a very The moors have most of at Mill Loch, Braeside, cliffs to the Point of Warness interesting visit, which is a Orkney's breeding Huntersquoy and Vinquoy and returns to the road via the Whimbrel, as well as Hen chambered cairns and farm of Greentoft. Hannah’s Carrick House dates from 1633 fine counterpoint to the ancient sites on the island. Harriers, Short-eared Owls, Vinquoy Hill. Either return (HY557287), now a poysoning.” The "witch" wait long for his comeu- Merlin and Arctic Skuas. directly or via Carrick House had been accused by a pance. He was caught and Wildlife The Red Head and the road to the shop. The Thomas Paplay, a servant of killed by John in cliffs are not very high at On the the low walk can be continued north John. Alyson and even her only 18 days later. Needless 70m, but the bright red (45m) cliffs of the Grey to Noup Hill and the Red seven year-old daughter to say the “Master of colour of the Eday Marl Head hold nesting seabirds. Head, from where there are were brutally tortured for Orkney” escaped again, this more than makes up for the Orkney’s largest Cormorant good views over Westray and days to gain “confessions”. time by simply ignore sum- lack of height. This type of colony is at the southeast Calf Sound. A track runs over mons to court in Edinburgh. rock does not erode to leave end of the island and many the Muckle Hill of John was of course acquitted many ledges, but Fulmars Great Black-backed Gulls Linkataing, to the road, pass- as both Paplay and Balfour The Carrick Estate and manage to find spaces all the nest nearby. The mostly ing Papleyhouse with its near- retracted their “confessions” Sound in came th same. Some Puffins, stoney beaches of Calf by 19 century farmstead. before being executed. The into the possession of the Razorbills, Kittiwakes and Sound are well worth check- inquisitor, who was parson Fea family through the mar- Shags also nest here, while ing for transitory migrants. The Warness Walk Starting of and Patrick’s riage of James Fea to Janet there are colonies of Herring from Backaland Pier take the chamberlain, did not need to Buchanan. An armorial and Greater Black-backed The Sands of Doomy with road to the Bay of Greentoft Standing stone near Greentoft the adjacent Loch of Doomy Bay of Greentoft in the south has an attractive sandy beach Gulls on the slopes near the Redhouse is a 19th century croft above Paplayhouse cliffs. Vegetation on Noup (HY558340), Mill Bay Hill has to contend with acid (HY570360) and the Bay of peat and salt blast. London (HY564343) are all Nevertheless the moors and shallow, and good places to clifftops are very colourful observe waders. The variety in summer with all the wild of habitats and large amount flowers in bloom. of unfarmed land ensures the presence of a varied flora. In Red-throated Divers nest on summer the wild flowers are the lochs and there is a hide particularly colourful.

478 479 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:38 Page 480

NORTH ISLES - EDAY EDAY - “THE ISTHMUS ISLE”

except for a hole in the roof PIRATE GOW - A SAD 18th CENTURY TALE and in good condition, while Calf Sound was host to the final act of a latter day pirate drama in EDAY SERVICES the other (HY579385) is built 1725. was the son of a merchant, William Gow into the hillside and, though and Margaret Calder. He was born in 1698 in Wick, and the family Getting To Eday Orkney open, is also intact. moved to Stromness in 1699, where he grew up. Like many Ferries, Tel (01856) 872044 oper- , the young Gow went to sea, and in August 1724 joined the ate daily services to the island from Caroline in Amsterdam. He was made Second Mate and Gunner. . Depending on the sched- Two buildings on the shore They took on a cargo of leather, beeswax and woollen cloth at Santa ule it is possible to travel between (HY575390) opposite Carrick Cruz, which was bound for Genoa, but the crew was becoming restive Eday, Sanday and . are the remains of a 17th cen- due to poor food and conditions on board, which caused the French Loganair operate only on Captain Ferneau to have small arms made ready to enforce discipline tury saltworks built by John Wednesdays, Tel (01856) 872494, if necessary. Please refer to their latest timeta- Backaland Pier is one of the most sheltered in the North Isles Stewart. The buildings were On 3 November, in Santa Cruz, Gow and five others murdered the bles for details. about 13m long, with massive ruin, may be an early chapel. styles of furniture, bookbind- Captain, Mate, Surgeon and Supernumerary. The vessel was Eday Car Hire and Minibus end walls and are built out renamed Revenge, and for the next two months they harried ships off ing and art in wood at Tours A Stewart, Stackald Tel into the sea. Peat fires and a the Spanish coast. Two prizes were taken, but both carried cargoes (01857) 622206 Another longer walk round Redbanks, near the pier. Tel of . Running short of food and water, they made for Madeira but complex system of vents were Shop and fuel Eday Community the south end takes in the (01857) 622219. At Blett succeeded only in obtaining water, some and hens. used to evaporate the water. Enterprises Tel (01857) 622339 Ward Hill and the West Side. Studio, watercolour paintings An American timber ship was next, followed by a ship carrying wine The remains of the peatstack Accommodation B&B and self- Follow the Warness Walk and and hand-spun wool by from Cadiz. The last ship stopped was again carrying fish. Gow used for the fires lies behind released the prisoners from each earlier ship onto the next and soon catering is available on Eday. then continue via the Ward Emma Popplewell can be Please check the latest “Islands” the buildings. Salt had for word was about of their activities. Lacking provisions to cross the Hill to the road at seen. Spinning demonstra- Atlantic, they now made for Orkney, arriving at Stromness in January and VisitOrkney brochures. long been produced at home Newbigging (HY543312). tions, teas and meals are avail- 1725, changing the name to George on the way. in Orkney and this is an inter- The attractive beach at able Tel (01857) 622248. Gow called himself “Mr Smith” and played the part of a shipping trad- esting early attempt at indus- Sealskerry Bay with its small er. Unfortunately for him and his crew another ship, Margaret, was trialisation of an ancient also in Stromness. Two of its crew had jumped ship to the Caroline in EDAY ATTRACTIONS area of dunes and marsh is The CALF OF EDAY (ON process. Amsterdam and the Captain recognised the George for what she real- “by the sun” well worth scanning for Calf, as of a calf with its ly was. One of the crew, , absconded and surrendered to waders, while Sealskerry is a mother), lies to the northeast the law in Kirkwall. Ten men deserted in the longboat, and Gow had Backaland Pier Tidal Power A Tidal Test to leave Stromness on 17 February 1725. Sui Generis popular haulout for . of Eday, across Calf Sound, Facility is being installed in Standing Stone Return via the road to the where the flows through After an abortive raid on Robert Honeyman’s house, the Hall of Bay of Greentoft the Fall of Warness between Clestrain, two servant girls are said to have been abducted. They Sands of Mussetter and of the narrow sound like a . Castle of Stacklebrae Eday and the Muckle Green were soon put ashore “laden with presents” on Cava. By now the Warness Walk Doomy (HY550335) and There are several chambered authorities were alerted, a frigate was dispatched and Kirkwall pre- . Streams reach 3.6m/s thence along the B9063 to the cairns on the island, including pared for an attack. However Gow opted to head for Eday, where his Ward Hill (7knots) at springs and 1.5m/s school friend, James Fea, owned Carrick. Entering Calf Sound from pier. a long stalled cairn Flaughton Hill (3knots) at neaps in this chan- the north, the ship mis-stayed and went aground on the Calf of Eday. (HY579386) with two cham- Sealskerry Bay nel. which is not a main ship- With no longboat she could not be kedged off. Negotiations for assis- Westside Arts and Crafts The island bers, an early two-celled tomb tance failed and eventually Gow and his crew were captured by Fea ping route. Prototype tidal Sands of Mussetter has a high quality furniture and a later stalled tomb with and his men. Sands of Doomy mills up to 20m in diameter business, Sui Generis, run by four divisions. Of two John Gow and seven of his crew were hanged in London in June Loch of Doomy and generating up to 750MW 1725. Apparently he was hanged twice - the rope breaking at the first London Airport Colin Kerr, who has a show- Bookan-type chambers, one will be tested here. attempt as the hangman jerked his legs. The bodies were left in the Mill Bay room displaying various (HY579386) is complete Thames for three after which the two leaders were tarred and Mill Loch hung in chains as a warning to others. Gow had formed an attach- Stone of Setter Bookan-type cairn on the Calf of Eday Aerial view of the Calf of Eday and Calf Sound ment with a Helen Gordon while in Stromness and that they took a Braeside cairn vow at the Stone of Odin. She is said to have travelled to London to Huntersquoy cairn hold his tarry hand to break the vow. Vinquoy cairn Vinquoy Hill James Fea was reputed to have made £1,700 for his part in the cap- Noup Hill ture of Gow, but lost it in lawsuits afterwards. A strong Jacobite, Fea Red Head also owned Sound in Shapinsay and was the cousin of James Fea of Paplayhouse Whitehall in Stronsay, who probably introduced -burning to the Carrick House islands. Sound was one of the houses burnt by Cumberland s men in Calf Sound 1745. The reporter at the trial was , the editor of The Calf of Eday Spectator, who recounted his version of the story in “An Account of the Eday Coop Conduct and Proceedings of Gow”. Later these events were Mill Bay used by Walter Scott as source material for “The Pirate”, one of his Bay of London lesser novels. Church cairn

480 481 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:38 Page 482

NORTH ISLES - GREEN HOLMS NORTH ISLES - FARAY t t h h g g i i r r y y p p o o c c n n w w o o r r C C

Aerial view of from the northwest Little Green Holm on right Grey Seals at Scammalin on North Faray Further low banks lie on the side been suggested as a possible FARAY (ON Faer-ey, Sheep about. In common with other MUCKLE GREEN HOLM of this small valley, which in location, this seems unlikely Island), is a small island small uninhabited islands RUSK HOLM is a small (possibly ON Hellis-ey, Cave or autumn is full of seals. Some of when Sweyn and his men ended between Eday and Westray there is a great feeling of space island off the west side of Holy Isle), is best known for the these ruins may relate to a small up in Sanday. has which was last inhabited in and peace. This attractive Faray on the edge of the large number of Grey Seals monastic community which is been suggested as well, but does 1946. The Faray men were island has an interesting coast Westray . It has a flock of which pup there in autumn. The said to have been here in Norse not have a suitable cave, and in great fishermen and the small with geos, caves and a sandy "Holmie Sheep", which are females come ashore first, fol- times. any case was called Eyin Helga fertile island once supported beach at the south end. similar to lowed by the males who then by the Vikings. On the east side eight farms. At the south end Sheep. The small amount of attempt to dominate a number of In the , Sweyn of there is also a there are four well-preserved There is a chambered cairn at grass means that they eat a lot cows. Although fights are rare, Asleifson and his men are said to large cave into which a boat boat nousts (HY532355) with the north end of the island of the abundant seaweed. The they are ferocious when they do have hidden from Earl Harald, could be pulled, but the entrance pointed ends. The largest is (HY527380), with some house is used by farmers from occur. The pups are born with with their boat, “in a large cave is not submerged at high water. 8m long and 2.3m wide, sug- upright slabs still in position. Westray each year when they white coats which moult to sil- on Hellisey, a craggy island gesting that a quite large boat The cairn is near the shore on come to clip the sheep and very grey at about 3 weeks. towards the sea, and there is a LITTLE GREEN HOLM is was stored here. Also in con- the west side and lies outside was previously used by kelp- great cave in the rock, and the not so well named, with very lit- nection with the fishing, the what was cultivated land. It burners. The long and There is a mound at the south sea came right up into the mouth tle grass at all. Many Grey Seals cemetery (HY528370) has may have had "horns" at each exposed position ensure that end (HY527267) with large of the cave at high tide”. The pup here too, and there is a many graves of young men corner on the exterior. Pottery, large amounts of seaweed col- upright stones which may be a saga relates that they left their Cormorant colony on the south who were lost at sea, illustrat- bones and burnt material were lect here in winter. prehistoric house while enclo- boat in the cave, borrowed a side. The combination of seals ing the dangerous living that found on excavation. sures, terraces and field bound- small boat from the monks and and exposure ensure that few was gleaned from the fishing. Wildlife Many Grey Seals aries extend across the south end went to Sanday, where Sweyn plants survive on this rocky The kirk is now a ruinous On the , come ashore on Faray, the of the island. Below an X- had a kinsman. A large cave on island. The tide flows very fast mound. a tumble of stones on the Holm of Faray and Rusk shaped sheep shelter in the val- the east side of the Muckle past the Green Holms, such that southwest corner (HY527384) Holm to pup in the autumn, ley at the north end, there are Green Holm indeed slopes up in the Sound of the Green A visit to Faray is similar to a may be two Bronze Age hous- making it the largest such various ruins (HY527273) into the cliff and its entrance is Holms and the Fall of Warness visit to . The houses es. One is a large oval struc- rookery in Orkney, with about which are probably a medieval also submerged at high tide. there is a considerable slope still look in good repair from a ture with radial partitions. The 9% of the UK population. farmstead inside a rectangular apparent on the surface. distance and there is the feel- Holm is separated at high tide Storm Petrel nest on the Holm enclosure. While Helliar Holm has also ing that there should be people from Faray by Lavey Sound. of Faray and Rusk Holm.

Seals on Muckle Green Holm in October Mother and baby Sunset over Rusk Holm Bronze Age house on the Holm of Faray

482 483