DISCOVER TASMANIA Your Holiday Planner

discovertasmania.com 2 The Western Wilderness WORLD HERITAGE 4 WILDERNESS AREA

CRADLE MOUNTAIN 6 Reinvigorate or relax

TARKINE 13 A pristine wilderness

WARATAH 14 A town built of tin

CORINNA 15 Where nature is key

TULLAH, ROSEBERY, ZEEHAN 16 Towns rich in mining history

STRAHAN AND THE 18 GORDON RIVER Cruise capital of the wilderness

QUEENSTOWN 24 A mining relic of a different kind

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 26 Lake St Clair, Derwent Bridge Tarraleah, & Bronte Park

MOLE CREEK 28 Above and below, endless wonder

EVENTS 30 The Western

Wilderness For detailed information on things to see and do look for the official Western Wilderness Visitor From the vibrancy of cosmopolitan Hobart the imagination of the adventurer can Guide, available throughout to its gourmet rival Launceston, from conceive, whether on land or sea. The Tasmania, and online visit the untamed vastness of the south west curious can discover and learn of our tasmaniaswesternwilderness.com.au to the agricultural Midlands, from the heritage, and the foodie can enjoy fine breadbasket of the north west’s red soil wine, fresh produce and first-class cuisine. to the white beaches and fishing villages But for those who also have a passion for of the sunny east coast, Australia’s Island the beauty of landscape unadorned, and Acknowledgements Editorial by Tim Dub State is a place of bewitching diversity. crave the mystery of the forest, the majesty Design by Caramel Creative Tasmania caters for a variety of interests, of mountains, and the rush of wild rivers, it and as many recreational pursuits as is the Western Wilderness that awaits. (left) Bird River. Glenn Gibson

discovertasmania.com 3 World Heritage Wilderness Area

Whilst civilisation in all its glory is a reflection of our achievements, wilderness is an expression of something immeasurably greater, that requiring nothing of us, provides relief from human bustle and if we are open to the experience, a window to our souls.

The area is judged so precious that no less than 1.38 million hectares have been given World Heritage listing.

4 The Western Wilderness With its jagged mountains, wild tannin- Follow the Murchison Highway and the road representing the world’s largest carnivorous dark rivers, ancient forests and heath, eventually leads to Cradle Mountain, at the marsupials, and the platypus and echidna the Tasmanian wilderness is a place of very heart of this extraordinary region. its earliest mammals. Aboriginal sites have spectacular beauty, much of it so remote been dated back to 36,000 years, even The area is judged so precious that no and inaccessible that only the intrepid or before the last Ice Age when inexorable less than 1.38 million hectares have been the foolhardy will ever enjoy its secrets. glaciers shaped the deep valleys and given World Heritage listing, meeting seven buttongrass moorlands. But the more sedentary also have a chance of the ten possible criteria for inclusion, to witness the wonders of wilderness by one of the highest ratings of anywhere But there is something more special about driving along the Lyell Highway, which in the world. There is a profusion of rare wilderness than mere facts can convey. traverses the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers plants found only in Tasmania, and the National Park for 60 or so kilometres animal kingdom achieves superlatives (above) Gordon River Cruises. between Derwent Bridge and Lake Burbury. too, with the Tasmanian devil and quolls George Apostolidis discovertasmania.com 5 Cradle Mountain Reinvigorate or relax

He called the chalet “Waldheim”, meaning “Forest Home”, and it became a welcoming destination to many visitors over the years that followed.

6 The Western Wilderness Gustav Weindorfer’s vision for Cradle Mountain

The incomparable beauty of Cradle Mountain and its surrounding area is enjoyed by countless thousands every year. This is possible, largely due to the selfless idealism and enduring vision of one man - Gustav Weindorfer who emigrated from Austria to Australia in 1900 at the age of 26, where he quickly discovered a passion for the Australian bush. In the summer of 1910, Gustav and his wife Kate climbed Cradle Mountain, and Weindorfer gazing all around at the spectacular view made his famous pronouncement, “This must be a national park for the people for all time. It is magnificent and people must know about it and enjoy it.” His epiphany was to transform their lives.

They purchased 200 acres of land in a valley near Cradle Mountain and Gustav started to build an alpine chalet next to an ancient forest of King Billy pines. By Christmas 1912, they were ready to receive their first guests. He called the chalet “Waldheim”, meaning “Forest Home”, and it became a welcoming destination to many visitors over the years that followed. Tragically, Kate died in 1916 after a long illness, and Gustav moved permanently to Waldheim. With the hospitality and generosity of this exceptional man as a recurring theme, their story is told through exhibits in a replica chalet, on the same spot as the original building, not far from Gustav Weindorfer’s grave where he has rested since 1932.

In May 1922, an area of some 6,400 hectares from Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair was declared a “scenic reserve and wildlife sanctuary”. The work that had begun on the mountain top was completed in December 1982, when the area was added to the World Heritage list, ensuring its unique wonders are protected for “all time”.

(left) Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake. Paul Sinclair discovertasmania.com 7 Wild open moorlands are cut through by plunging gorges where waterfalls rush into streams that burble through forested valleys ...

Day walks at along the banks of the Pencil Pine River, The Dove Lake Loop Track is a perennial the “Enchanted Stroll” is just a twenty favourite. In a perspective that constantly Cradle Mountain minute circuit from Cradle Mountain Lodge, changes, Cradle Mountain soars high above The ten or more day walks within the while the eight hour return hike to “Cradle the lake, its jagged spires reaching up from domain of Cradle Mountain must rank Mountain Summit” presents a far more sheer walls with gothic splendour. strenuous challenge. as the finest in Australia. Wild open The surface of Dove Lake can sparkle with moorlands are cut through by plunging An invaluable aid is the Day Walk Map mirror-like clarity, or ripple and writhe gorges where waterfalls rush into streams sold at the Visitor Centre, where staff can blackly in the breeze, in service to the that burble through forested valleys, and discuss which tracks are most suitable, mountain as a moat to its castle. The track innumerable lakes and tarns delight, some how the weather is looking, and the gear winds around the lake to return along the surprisingly located hundreds of metres up that is appropriate for a particular walk. In a western shore for an easy two hours of pure the mountain’s flanks. With terrain of such valley where rainfall averages two metres a magic, and deep satisfaction. variety and exceptional beauty, there is a year, good boots and rainwear are essential Cradle Mountain. Image courtesy of walk here for everyone. A pleasant meander items for most outings. Cradle Mountain Lodge

8 The Western Wilderness The magic of snow

There is something almost visceral in the excitement of waking to find that the browns and greens of yesterday have been replaced by a mantle of white, as snow flutters gently down and a shaft of sunlight pierces the leaden sky to energise the landscape with a scintillating brilliance.

Waldheim Cabin is always attractive, but the thick snow adds magic to its weathered boards and shingled roof, a picture-book improbability from the pages of Snow White or Hansel and Gretel. The wombat shuffling by, coolly indifferent to the presence of people, heads for the hills in a landscape now formed from contour and light, topped by the wedding- cake extravaganza of the mountain Day Spas in the pools in beautiful surrounds, as well as itself. pampering treatments such as facials The Lodge at Cradle Mountain is Wilderness and body scrubs. Both men and women transformed into an alpine chalet, If climbing the summit is not your thing are catered for and swimwear is required as exotic as anything in Aspen or St. Cradle Mountain offers some genuine for the hot pools. Advance bookings are Moritz, and ice thickens on the small rejuvenation in the form of day spas. recommended as both spas are proving to lake with the solitary pencil pine ‘Calm Day Spa’ at Cradle Mountain be very popular. where platypus were playing the Chateau, and ‘The Waldheim Alpine night before. Spa’ at Cradle Mountain Lodge offer The Waldheim Spa. Cradle Mountain massages, steam rooms and hot tubs or Lodge. George Apostolidis

CRADLE MOUNTAIN CRADLE MOUNTAIN CHATEAU

Set among snow gums in alpine be pampered with a massage and an 3718 Cradle Mt Road, wilderness, Cradle Mountain Chateau outdoor hot tub in Calm Day Spa, or Cradle Mountain TAS 7310 is your base for adventure. Enjoy dine on some of Tasmania’s freshest T 1800 656 111 F 03 6225 3909 the many guided activities available, produce and fine wines in the two [email protected] www.puretasmania.com.au see the superb collection of nature restaurants and bar. photography in The Wilderness Gallery,

discovertasmania.com 9 People walk in the door thinking they are vicious and savage, and walk out with an “ entirely different perception. CRADLE MOUNTAIN CRADLE CHALET BOUTIQUE LUXURY LODGE

part of the wilderness.” Several years later, A Devil’s when Wade discovered a devil that had Playground died from devil facial tumour disease on “Raising a joey devil is an amazing the road near his home at Cradle, he was experience” says Tasmanian Wade determined to try to save his childhood companions, work that is now his passion. 4.5 star accommodation and restaurant Anthony, owner of the Devils at Cradle on the edge of the tranquil Cradle sanctuary. “Working with them every day, Mountain wilderness. Renowned for The conservation facility he founded you realise it is an absolutely extraordinary combining the natural beauty of the area rehabilitates orphaned devils and operates with the intimacy, privacy and personal animal, and something you just don’t want breeding and camera-based research touch of a boutique luxury lodge. to lose”. programs, with tours for the public that 1422 Cradle Mountain Road, include the transforming opportunity to Moina TAS 7310 Wade spent much of his childhood fishing, stroke a devil. T 03 6492 1401 F 03 6492 1144 bushwalking and camping with his father, [email protected] www.cradlechalet.com.au in a landscape where devils were a familiar (above) Tasmanian devil. Garry Moore

cradle mountain CRADLE VALLEY devils@cradle (tasmanian devil sanctuarY) LEMONTHYME LODGE

Explore the mysterious world of the Tasmanian devil at this unique alpine conservation park, located just 500m from the Cradle Mountain National Park. Experience a close up encounter while learning about these amazing animals.

Advanced bookings recommended for • Close to Cradle Mountain night feeding tours @ 5.30pm (also • Luxury wilderness retreat 8.30pm during daylight savings). • Fantastic food • Fine wine Open daily from 10.00am. • Inspiring waterfall walks • Tree top cabins 3950 cradle mt road, cradle mountain tas 7306 Dolcoath Road off Cradle Mt Road, t 03 6492 1491 Moina TAS 7310 F 03 6492 1451 T 03 6492 1112 F 03 6492 1113 [email protected] [email protected] www.devilsatcradle.com www.lemonthyme.com.au

10 The Western Wilderness  The Wilderness followed Ansel Adams as an inductee in the International Photography Hall Gallery of Fame, and was the first Australian to achieve that honour. His definitive work The Wilderness Gallery would be a featuring the Tasmanian wilderness is significant attraction in any of the recognised with a permanent display. major cities of the world, but its actual A changing program of exhibitions by location is somehow completely leading contemporary photographers appropriate. With displays of 250 from around the world showcases the pictures in 10 linked rooms arranged very best of environmental photography, around a central enclosed garden, it and in a perfect prelude to spectacular is the largest privately-owned gallery Cradle Mountain down the road, is a dedicated to photography in the timely reminder of just how beautiful our southern hemisphere, rivaled in the world can be for those with the eye to northern hemisphere only by the Ansel perceive. Adams Gallery in Yosemite National Park, The Wilderness Gallery, Cradle Mountain California. In 2003 Peter Dombrovskis Chateau. George Apostolidis

CRADLE MOUNTAIN CRADLE MOUNTAIN HUTS

Discover the rare beauty and A truly spectacular journey to revive the T 03 6392 2211 extraordinary diversity of Tasmania’s senses. [email protected] world heritage-listed Cradle Mountain www.cradlehuts.com.au – Lake St. Clair National Park. Walk the Departs daily between October and 60km Overland Track and unwind in May. From $2,550 per person all the warmth and comfort of private hut inclusive. 184accommodation x 85 Cradle eachCountry evening. ad:Layout 1 19/11/08 11:32 AM Page 1

Spend some time exploring this magnificent part of Tasmania. Whether your interest is history and culture, wildlife and nature or gourmet food and wine, we have abundant attractions for you to discover.

From painstakingly preserved heritage, to a vibrant modern city, a seaside haven to Australia’s premiere mountain wilderness destination, countless farms set on rich chocolate soils and a thriving arts and crafts community, Devonport & Cradle Country is ready to surprise and delight you with every twist in the road. www.cradlecountry.com.au

discovertasmania.com 11 The sustained physical effort of a multi-day hike strengthens, cleanses and invigorates the body ...

The world-famous There are several choices of how to go. You Sharing a sense of real achievement, can earn your stripes as an uncompromised the probability is that companions will Overland Track adventurer carrying 20 kg or so, with tent become friends as the walk unfolds through an area of outstanding natural The “Overland Track” is one of the world’s and supplies for the six day duration, perhaps finding room to overnight beauty and unimaginable antiquity. The great walks. At approximately 70 km occasionally in the public huts along the sustained physical effort of a multi-day from Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair, hike strengthens, cleanses and invigorates way. Or you can book the more indulgent it lies entirely within the World Heritage the body, calms the chatter of mind and option to join a guided tour carrying no Wilderness Area, reaching through moors creates space for the more subtle and more than a light pack, and enjoy excellent powerful experience that immersion in and rainforests, and past waterfalls, lakes meals with fine wines in private cabins with nature can allow; a deep harmony of spirit, and mountains. Much of it is board-walked, hot showers, a pleasure greatly enhanced a rediscovery of nothing less than the and the trail is now so popular that in the by a hard day on the trail. Though the miracle of life, and a sense of joy. summer months, a permit system limits the emphasis clearly differs, both options are Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair National number of walkers at any one time. equally satisfying. Park. Chris Bell

cradle mountain cradle mountain Helicopters

Our helicopter flights will take you over magnificent mountains, deep valleys and gorges and glacial lakes created thousands of years ago. Spectacular scenery on a flight you will long remember. t 03 6492 1132 [email protected] www.adventureflights.com.au

12 The Western Wilderness Day walks and guided walks Tarkine in the Tarkine

There are many walking choices in A pristine the Tarkine to bring you closer to wilderness the wonders of the rainforest or the scintillating drama of the wild west coast. As the largest temperate rainforest in Consider a fully supported guided tour Australia, and the second largest in the over several days with the passionate world, the Tarkine is a rare and precious founders of Tarkine Trails, where fine wilderness, and the last refuge for more food and excellent company bring than fifty species of threatened birds and security and comfort to an adventure far animals. Dry eucalypt and mixed forest, distant from the beaten track. riverbank, heathland and moorland are in its area too, with great tracts of wet Choose from many self-guided walks too, eucalypts where trees average more such as from the eco-resort of Corinna. than forty metres high. Scarce huon The Whyte River Walk gives a sense of pines grow on the Tarkine’s southern the majestic isolation of the forest and reaches along the Pieman River, and its a chance to glimpse a platypus or trout, northern boundary is marked by another or for a longer walk the four-hour return magnificent waterway, the pristine Arthur ascent of Mount Donaldson rewards with River. Other remote rivers such as the a birds-eye view over the Tarkine’s deep Pedder, Thornton, Rapid and Donaldson interior and the Southern Ocean to rush from the mountains to the sea, where the west. the coast defines the Tarkine’s western A short distance from Waratah, a have traversed two oceans before landfall boundary. walk to Philosophers Falls combines or head south amid massive sand dunes Here, gigantic waves from the Southern beguiling history, magnificent forest, a toward Sundown Point. Ocean pound rugged rocks or burst onto magical river, tree ferns, and a tumbling Whether next to a lake, alongside a river, kilometres of deserted fine-sand beaches falls named after James ‘Philosopher’ up a mountain, deep in the pristine forest and undulating dunes of almost sensual Smith, who was prospecting for tin or along the deserted beaches of the beauty, and of inconceivable antiquity. and silver at the headwaters of the magical shoreline, there is a walk in the One of the world’s great archaeological Arthur River. Tarkine perfect for everyone, from armchair regions, these coastal heathlands conceal At the Edge of the World viewing ambler to avid adventurer. Aboriginal middens, including the biggest platform at Arthur River experience the in Australia, accumulated by the Tarkiner power of the Roaring 40s winds that people over thirty millennia. Forest Plateau, Tarkine Trails. Eli Greg

Step into the rainforest from the track, and immediately there is a stillness, the CoRinnA air cool as the dankness of decay mixes CoRinnA WiLDERnESS EXPERiEnCE with the cleansing aroma of cool-climate herb and spice. Fallen branch and living Corinna unlocks the secrets of the trunk are cloaked in a mantle of life, as Tarkine rainforest and wild west fungi, mosses and lichens drape every coast like nowhere else. Relax in comfortable eco retreats, enjoy surface in a soft beard-like growth of intimate river, rainforest and coastal saturated green. Sassafras, Celery-Top Pine experiences. Become immersed in the and Leatherwood reach skyward but are Tarkine rainforest that surrounds this lively eco friendly township. dwarfed by the great Myrtle-beech, some sixty metres high, with great burls erupting Corinna a refreshing escape from from their ancient trunks. mass tourism.

There is a sense of the sacred in the Tarkine, of the seeming eternity of the natural world, and a link to Gondwana, a Main Road, time so unimaginably distant that Australia Corinna TAS 7321 T 03 6446 1170 itself was not yet formed as an island. [email protected] A precious place indeed. www.corinna.com.au

discovertasmania.com 13 Though smaller scale mining developments continue today, Waratah is now peaceful and dignified, with a sense of both its place in history and of the specialness of its location. In the town centre are the spectacular Waratah Falls. If you look one side of the bridge across the Waratah River, you will see a serene lake that overflows gently in a puddling current beneath your feet. Look the other side, or better, continue on around the curving road to the lookout provided for the purpose, and you will see a gushing torrent that divides and fans into separate channels that crash Waratah down a blackened cliff face to feed the river below in a great forested ravine that reaches to a distant bend.

In the Old Power House you can fossick A town built his dog as a companion, he set off with a among the ruins and view some of the “presentiment” that he should look again remaining equipment, but if the two of tin around Mount Bischoff, even though others hour return stroll is too much, then next to Smith’s hut, is the Waratah Museum The tiny hut in the middle of Waratah is had been there before. Shortly after finding and Gift Shop. It contains exhibits so quaint it looks unlike any real home, the falls which today bear his name, he of early photographs, artefacts and more like something imagined in a folk-tale discovered tin on 1 December 1871. minerals and is in the former court house. of dark forests, wicked witches and lost The mine soon became the world’s richest Opposite is the Athenaeum Hall, built children. The hut is a replica, but the life tin mine. By 1905, sixty-five thousand around 1887, that features a prominent of its original owner, James ‘Philosopher’ tonnes of ore per annum yielded dividends portrait of “Philosopher” Smith. Nearby Smith, is scarcely less remarkable than that of more than two million pounds into the is an excellent display on the site of the described in any bedtime fairy tale, and his economy. To service the mine, Waratah Kenworthy Stamper Mill that delivers an transformation in fortune, as momentous quickly developed into a substantial town absorbing account of the town, its colourful as any “happy ever after” ending that such with three hotels and a population of some mining history, and an insight into the a tale would dare to invent. 2000 people, and when a 78 km rail-link to cheerful resilience of its people. By the late 1800’s the Tasmanian economy the port at Burnie was completed in June was struggling, and Smith believed it 1884, the town enjoyed a rumbustious could be rescued by the discovery of prosperity, at least until the mine closed mineral wealth. With meagre rations and in 1935. Native Waratah. Ken Boundy

WARATAH WARATAH WARATAH WARATAH CAMPING GROUND KENWORTHY’S STAMPER MILL MUSEUM AND GIFT SHOP

Waratah Camping Ground offers Kenworthy’s Stamper Mill was Set beside Philosopher Smith’s Hut, lakeside caravan, motor home and operated on the slopes of Mt Bischoff this museum is run on a volunteer camping sites close to town. A great by Dudley Kenworthy. Recently, basis and houses collections of early base to explore Corinna’s Tarkine volunteers relocated it and restored photographs, artefacts and minerals. Wilderness and Cradle Mountain it to working condition. Kenworthy’s The Gift Shop sells souvenir items. National Park. Stamper Mill is open daily.

Smith Street, Smith Street, Smith Street, Waratah TAS 7321 Waratah TAS 7321 Waratah TAS 7321 T 03 6439 7100 weekdays www.warwyn.tas.gov.au T 03 6439 1252 www.warwyn.tas.gov.au www.warwyn.tas.gov.au

14 The Western Wilderness Corinna

Where nature Huon Pine, are identified by displays. A is key longer day walk to a mountain top reveals panoramas that reach back to Gondwana Encircled by the ancient trees of the Tarkine Land before the creation of island on the banks of the timeless Pieman River, Australia, as the forest stretches to the sea. the once unruly gold-mining township of The essential Corinna experience is the Corinna has been revitalised as a green- day-trip along the Pieman in a 1939 energy eco-resort, with superb hospitality, Huon pine river-cruiser to Pieman Heads. quality accommodation and excellent Here the river meets the storm-wracked facilities. Sometimes the rain falls with Southern Ocean at a white sand beach an insistent thrum, but often Corinna is where a colourful community of shack shrouded in a cathedral-like stillness so dwellers witness mighty waves which complete that the sound of the barge that have tangled tree trunks as a child will CORINNA TARKINE HOTEL occasionally carries travellers across the AND TANNIN throw matchsticks, in an ever-changing river from the road to Strahan, reverberates melodrama of land, sea, and sky. over the mirroring surface of the Pieman with a bell-like clarity. Beachcomb here, and breathe deep of the Roaring Forties trade winds that, off 20,000 Corinna is the perfect haven from which to kilometres of cleansing ocean, energise experience this unforgettable wonderland and invigorate this spectacular coast. of nature in its pristine splendour, and as And in the evening, enjoy fine cuisine Tannin is the alluring restaurant a springboard for a range of activities for housed in the new Tarkine Hotel, and the best Tasmanian wine on the recreation or adventure. Canoe or kayak the newest addition to the Corinna balcony of the Tarkine Hotel, as the setting community. Enjoy the fresh local upon the remote waterways, or by dingy, produce with a unique Tassie twist. sun bathes the sky in red and pink over visit Lovers Falls, a thirty five metre torrent Bookings recommended. matchless Corinna, a one-off tourism jewel of water into an exquisite rain-forested Main Road, in Australia’s glittering crown. gully. There are several walks, such as the Corinna TAS 7321 T 03 6446 1170 board-walk stroll along the Pieman, where [email protected] (above) Arcadia II, Corinna. Susan Smith www.corinna.com.au the trees including the rare and ancient Corinna Rainforest. Ken Boundy discovertasmania.com 15 Tullah

Next to the beautiful Lake Rosebery, Tullah Emu Bay Railway. The “Wee Georgie boat or kayak. The majestic landscape can sits beneath the 712 metre Mt Farrell, Wood” steam locomotive still runs for be appreciated from the Murchison Dam often shrouded in mist and named after a 1.6 km train ride from the middle of or, just four kilometres out of town, drive Thomas Farrell, the hotel keeper, farmer town to recreate the bustle, clamour and across the Mackintosh Dam, a fantastic and part-time prospector who in 1892 excitement of the original experience. vantage point for differing aspects of the first discovered the silver-lead ore that Though Lake Rosebery is a relatively new spectacular landscape. The more strenuous the town was established to mine, just six creation, it is a natural complement to hike up Mount Farrell itself, opens up years later. These days, after an easy drive the town’s mountain-circled location and evocative views to the receding shades of along the Murchison Highway, it’s difficult a wonderful resource for several water- blue and grey that are the distant peaks of to imagine that until the early 1960s, the based recreational activities, such as the the magnificent western wilderness. only mechanised access to Tullah was by ever-popular fly-fishing. Tullah’s lakeside the two-feet gauge Tullah Tramway that lodge ensures a tranquil base for a peaceful ran as a siding off the wonderfully-named waterside stroll, and to explore the lake by Lake Rosebery. Joe Shemesh Rosebery

Named after the British Prime Minister at of Tasmania’s greatest novelist, the author the time, Rosebery has been a mining town Richard Flanagan, whose early imagination for over a century, and it is the active zinc was fashioned by the dense mysteries mine that defines its character today. Zinc of the rainforest, the savage beauty of lead ore was discovered in 1893, since when the rivers and the stark majesty of the mining has made an enormous contribution surrounding mountains. to Tasmania’s economy. Rosebery’s copper, gold, lead, zinc and silver mines have been Near the town centre, Stitt Falls is reached the most productive of any on the west in a short walk through rainforest or out coast, with an estimated yield of $8 billion. of town, a three hour return walk through At the Heritage Centre, with admission by forest along an old tram route concludes at gold coin donation, there is an interesting the base of Montezuma Falls, Tasmania’s display of historical mining photographs, highest waterfall. The park-like rainforest memorabilia and artifacts, which tell the of leatherwood, myrtle, sassafras, giant Framed by the dappled sheen of the forest fascinating tale of a mining town. tree ferns and eye-catching fungi is home above it, Rosebery’s popular community- You can follow a scenic drive over the hills to several bird species, such as White’s run golf course, with its “up” and “down” for a lofty perspective down onto Rosebery thrush, which forages quietly on the ground eighth hole is the steepest, and may well in its forest-shrouded setting, or there are and, when disturbed, settles again only a be the prettiest green in the whole of a number of great walks in and around short distance away. The track can also be Australia. town. This was the childhood playground accessed on a 4WD tour. Montezuma Falls. Joe Shemesh 16 The Western Wilderness Zeehan to Strahan railway link in 1892, so an assortment of folk as will inevitably that by the turn of the century, Zeehan had be attracted to the prospect of any great Zeehan become Tasmania’s third largest town. The fortune. area remains an active centre for mining and although Zeehan’s glory years have Entrance to the restored Gaiety Theatre is In 1642, Abel Tasman became the first passed, there are several attractions of from the West Coast Pioneers Museum next European to sight the island that now considerable interest. door, which houses one of the finest mineral bears his name, and his brig, a tiny displays in the world. More history is found vessel by today’s standards, was called Often in these west coast townships, little in the Spray Tunnel, a ten minute drive from the Zeehaen. Its namesake, the town of remains to suggest the excitement that the main street, where you can walk through Zeehan, was established to service the must have accompanied their heyday. a tall but narrow keyhole-shaped tram tunnel mining industry, after silver and lead were Zeehan is different, its grandeur from one hundred metres long. Look for souvenirs discovered in 1882, but initially growth when it was known as the “Silver City” of Zeehan from the minerals, or locally made of the settlement was impeded by its still evident in some of the main street jams and preserves on sale in several pretty inaccessible location. buildings, prompting the visitor to imagine shops that share the main street terrace, and a time when the streets would have echoed take away your own memories, from a town This changed with the completion of the to the sound of merriment and mayhem, that once so rich in wealth, is now so rich road from Trial Harbour in 1889, and the with fortunes made and lost by as varied in history.

West Coast exotic mineral crystals, and exhibits on flora, fauna and photography. There are Pioneers Museum even surgical instruments from the time, that now seem more akin to implements of Housed in what has been described torture. In the sheds outside, great steam as one of the finest buildings ever locomotives, polished and gleaming, constructed in Zeehan, the West Coast beckon seductively amongst other arcane Pioneers Museum would be considered an machinery and other intriguing exhibits. invaluable asset in any major metropolis, and is all the more extraordinary to The displays serve as an inspiring tribute discover in this remote Tasmanian to the ingenuity and fortitude of the men location. Some 25,000 visitors every and women whose toughness unlocked year are inspired by this great collection, the western wilderness, and give a celebrating not only Zeehan’s past, but humbling appreciation of the scale of the also the origins and fates of several other difficulties they faced and overcame. west coast mining ventures too.

The thirteen galleries include a priceless display of crocoite amongst many other West Coast Pioneer Museum. Rick Eaves

ZEEHAN WEST COAST STRAHAN WEST COAST QUEENSTOWN & ROSEBERY PIONEERS MUSEUM VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE WEST COAST CABIN & TOURIST PARKS

World class mineral collections, Call the friendly staff now to help you The West Coast Cabin & Tourist Parks historic memorabilia, photographic discover the rainforests, waterfalls in Queenstown & Rosebery offer a galleries, classic loco’s, underground and lakes that surround Tullah and range of accommodation styles to suit mine simulation, blacksmith workshop, Rosebery, and explore Zeehan, a town your needs. mining machinery, police station, court rich in mining heritage and history. house and historic gaiety theatre. Queenstown Cabin & Tourist Park 17 Grafton Street, Queenstown TAS 7467 T 03 6471 1332 F 03 6471 1125 West Coast Pioneer Museum Zeehan Esplanade, Strahan TAS 7468 [email protected] T 03 6471 6225 F 03 6471 6650 T 1800 352 200 westcoastcabins.com.au [email protected] [email protected] Rosebery Cabin & Tourist Park www.westcoastheritage.com.au www.westernwilderness.com.au 1 Park Street, Rosebery TAS 7470 T 03 6473 1366 F 03 6473 1594

discovertasmania.com 17 Strahan and the Gordon River

Cruise capital of identifying with a larger community or after the facility was closed in 1970, leaving “tribe”, through language, customs, and fishing for abalone, crayfish and shark as the wilderness intermarriage. Though the area was also the major commercial occupation. Tourism The nineteenth-century terrace of buildings, visited by other bands, the “Toogee” or was limited mainly to some cruising on the now used as pubs, shops and cafes, are “South–west” tribe” lived in the Macquarie Gordon River. Harbour region, migrating every year dwarfed by the giant catamarans moored The worldwide publicity from environmental along the coast to the far north and back, at jetties across the street, as the sun sets protests in 1982 over the plan to dam the crossing waterways with canoes fashioned over the silky black vastness of Macquarie Franklin, and the declaration of a World from bundles of bark. Living in harmony Harbour and the street lights flicker on in Heritage Area on its doorsteps, were to with the land and its seasons, they ate picture-pretty Strahan. This is truly a place change Strahan yet again. These days, shellfish, seals, penguins and mutton of stories, but as the sleek Gordon River Strahan teems with visitors, the sky birds, and were among the last to actively cruisers attest, hearing them is made easy buzzes with the sounds of seaplanes or resist the loss of their homelands. for the visitor, adding layers of interest to helicopters, speedboats and yachts ply the experiences that would be worthwhile for A harsh convict settlement was established harbour, and people fly from interstate to their recreational content alone. Since the by the British on Sarah Island in Macquarie spend a day on the renowned ‘Piners and Europeans arrived, many of the forces that Harbour in 1822. Logging and boat Miners’ guided day tour of the west coast. have shaped Tasmanian history in general, building became the convicts’ trade using have found particular expression in this The popularity of these activities the Huon pine that grew abundantly in remote west coast township, starting with necessitates forward planning by visitors the area, though after the penal colony the discovery of Macquarie Harbour by the to ensure they allow enough time in closed in 1830, the forests continued to whaler/adventurer, Captain James Kelly, Strahan, and that they book both their attract timber workers. By 1900, Strahan in 1815. accommodation and activities in advance. had became Tasmania’s third-largest For tens of thousands of years, Aboriginals port servicing the inland copper and lead had lived in small groups or “bands”, mines, but the population declined to 300 Gordon River Cruise, Strahan. Rick Eaves 18 The Western Wilderness STRAHAN Macquarie Harbour Wilderness, the river’s surface reflects the GORDON RIVER PADDLE and Sarah Island rainforest in mirror-perfect symmetry during a tranquil glide to Heritage Landing for a Through a wilderness of compelling beauty, board walk stroll through the ancient trees, a cruise on the Gordon River transports its including a two thousand year-old fallen passengers to another world and another giant that still flourishes. time. The second stop is on Sarah Island, once Cruise to Heritage Landing on the The boat speeds across the sheltered Australia’s most hellish convict settlement, Lady Jane Franklin II; paddle upstream waters of Macquarie Harbour to the where the guide’s performance resurrects intimately exploring the Gordon River; enjoy a delicious picnic lunch in evocatively titled Hell’s Gates for a sight a colourful cast of characters and their the rainforest, before meeting your of the vastness of the Southern Ocean sometimes horrible histories. afternoon cruise back to Strahan. beyond, before returning to slow at the T 1800 656 111 F 03 6225 3909 mouth of the Gordon River. Darkened by [email protected] www.puretasmania.com.au tannins from deep within the South West Strahan. Mike Fry

STRAHAN STRAHAN strahan GORDON RIVER CRUISES THE BONNET ISLAND EXPERIENCE WOrLD hErItaGE CrUIsEs

Cruise across Macquarie Harbour on Visit a remote island; enjoy gourmet Cruise the Gordon River in the locally the Lady Jane Franklin II; glide past local specialties; observe Little owned and operated ‘MV Eagle’. Departs ancient rainforest, mirrored in the Penguins at dusk; hear tales of Strahan for Sarah Island via Hells Gates Gordon River; go ashore at Heritage shipwrecks and rescue, storms and and Heritage Landing. Buffet lunch is Landing; visit Sarah Island hearing survival; and when darkness has fallen, included. Departs 9am, returns 2.45pm stories from convict days. cruise back to Strahan in comfort. daily. Advance bookings recommended.

T 1800 656 111 F 03 6225 3909 T 1800 656 111 F 03 6225 3909 the Esplanade, strahan tas 7468 [email protected] [email protected] t 03 6471 7174 or 1800 611 796 www.puretasmania.com.au www.puretasmania.com.au F 03 6471 7431 [email protected] www.worldheritagecruises.com.au

discovertasmania.com 19 Sawmilling and Sensuous shapes, polished and inviting in Piners and sassafras, huon pine and myrtle are formed Woodworking into platters, bowls, spoons, vases and miners occasional oversize statuary, so inviting Snowy Morrison left school at 14 to join his It’s the early morning sight of the as to compel a caress. Timmy Halton is 27 father in the Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill Landrover Defender that gives the first and has worked as woodturner for the past on the waterfront, one of just four that still indication the Piners and Miners tour eight years. mill the precious timber. His own son works is something unusual. The $200,000 alongside him now, the fourth generation Myrtle is his favourite. “ It can be cricket- vehicle has been stretched like a limo. of Morrisons in the family business. In ball red, or yellow, grey, green, pink or After a short drive out of town, the 4WD his 60s, Snowy has seen changes over brown. You don’t know what you’ve got till stops and manoeuvres to straddle the years, though the timbers remain the you cut it open - it’s like opening a present railway tracks. With the push of a button same. “Now you have the craft industry, every day”. everything is used”, it transforms into a “Hi-Rail” and is off he explains. The sawmill and gallery are open seven again along the West Coast Wilderness days. Railway, and into the rainforest. The Strahan Woodworks Gallery is as smooth, opulent and subtly lit as the mill next door is rough, ready, and open. Strahan Woodworks. Rick Eaves

strahan STRAHAN strahan woodworks WEST COAST VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE

The West Coast Visitor Information Centre has a wealth of information, maps and guides. It is your one stop shop for all Strahan accommodation, all cruises on the Gordon River, West Coast Wilderness Railway and attraction bookings.

Woodturning workshop, crafts and fine Adjoining the visitor centre is the art gallery, located halfway between Reflections Exhibition, an award the town shops and post office on the winning display which tells the story waterfront. Visit us and enjoy the total of Macquarie Harbour. sensual experience.

Esplanade, Strahan TAS 7468 12 the Esplanade, strahan tas 7468 T 1800 352 200 t 03 6471 7244 www.westernwilderness.com.au [email protected] [email protected] www.strahanwoodworks.com.au

20 The Western Wilderness STRAHAN ...the driver’s hands don’t touch STRAHAN VILLAGE the steering wheel as he delivers a gripping commentary...

The Ship that Set on the shores of Macquarie Harbour on Tasmania’s historic West Never Was Coast, Strahan Village offers stylish cottages, terraces and well-appointed Australia’s longest running play, The Ship rooms on the waterfront esplanade or that Never Was, tells the true tale of a overlooking the port and harbour. group of convicts who successfully escape the hellish penal colony on Sarah Island The Esplanade, Strahan TAS 7468 by building their own sailing ship. The plot T 1800 656 111 F 03 6225 3909 is as full of twists and legal loopholes as [email protected] www.puretasmania.com.au any Hollywood thriller but this energetic show carries its audience with it in a way A surreal sight, the driver’s hands don’t achieved by very few screen dramas. STRAHAN touch the steering wheel as he delivers PINERS ANd mINERS a gripping commentary of the struggle The theatre itself on the Esplanade in between the successful Bowes Kelly and Strahan is small and intimate so the the vanquished James Crotty, two mining audience is very aware of the physical pioneers who established rival mines, reality of the performance. An ingenious towns and railway lines. use of props is accomplished as a casual accompaniment to the lively and humorous Add in magnificent rainforest, stops narrative, so that a complex assembly at heritage railway stations, sweeping of spare parts miraculously transforms Discover West Coast heritage by mountain panoramas, a pleasant bush into a credible boat, or reassembles into Hi-Rail 4WD; follow a riverside walking walk down the banks of a rushing river, something completely different. track to savour a gourmet barbecue by fine wine and a sumptuous banquet in a the harbour; explore the abandoned ghost town, and by the end, this tour has Throughout, there is liberal use made of port of East Pillinger and cruise back to Strahan. established its credentials as not just out audience participation. If this makes you of the ordinary - but absolutely amazing. nervous, don’t imagine sitting at the back T 1800 656 111 F 03 6225 3909 will protect you. “Go with the flow” for an [email protected] Piners and Miners. Image courtesy of www.puretasmania.com.au Pure Tasmania adventure of a lifetime.

strahan STRAHAN strahan bungalows MOTEL STRAHAN

Motel Strahan offers comfortable contemporary accommodation on the edge of Tasmania’s World Heritage Wilderness. Accommodation is stylish and includes king size beds, Austar, air-conditioning, tea/coffee making facilities, TV/DVD players and ensuite.

Well appointed and modern two Enjoy the multitude of wilderness bedroom fully self contained activities, arts/crafts or simply enjoy apartments. Queen bed in main the atmosphere of our little fishing bedroom & two singles in the second village. bedroom. One apartment caters for disabled. Friendly welcome on arrival. 3 Andrew St, Cnr andrew & harvey streets Strahan TAS 7468 strahan tas 7468 T 03 6471 7555 t 03 6471 7268 F 03 6471 7268 F 03 6471 7807 [email protected] [email protected] www.strahanbungalows.com.au www.motelstrahan.com.au

discovertasmania.com 21 strahan sharOnLEE strahan Things to see exploration or visit Tasmania’s longest VILLas anD MarsDEn COUrt beach, Ocean Beach, to see the incredible and do migrating mutton birds return from their daily feed. Whilst the magical day long cruise down the Gordon River is the signature The Henty dunes are a world of lunar experience, there are a host of other ways form and sculpted contour that appeal to enjoy your time in Strahan. to hikers, sandboarders and quad bikers alike. Hop on board a steam train that For complete serenity, paddle yourself Located in spacious gardens, Marsden runs through rainforest over some of Court and Sharonlee Strahan Villas up the river with a guide or for a grander the steepest inclines of any railway in offer self contained studio and two perspective fly by plane or helicopter. Australia, traversing forty bridges in thirty bedroom apartments. An ideal base for discovering the attractions of Strahan Charter a boat for a sailing expedition or five kilometres. There’s golf if you want and and surrounding World Heritage area. sign up for a skippered trip through the Australia’s longest running play, galleries wondrous harbour and sea, with deep sea and exhibitions, arts and crafts, and of andrew street, strahan tas 7468 t 03 6471 7224 F 03 6471 7375 fishing and cray fishing as options too. course, innumerable places to eat. [email protected] Enjoy! www.marsdencourt.com.au A speedboat can blast you up the King www.sharonleestrahanvillas.com.au Gordon River Paddle. Image courtesy of River to connect with a 4WD for further Pure Tasmania

strahan STRAHAN ALOFT BOUTIQUE strahan strahan seaplanes anchor down holiday units ACCOMMODATION & helicopters

Clean, warm and cosy atmosphere. Offering 4.5 Star Luxury Serviced Our seaplane flights take you over Our reputation for comfortable beds Apartments, ideally located only 500 the mighty Gordon & Franklin Rivers, speaks for itself. Two bedrooms with meters from the village center and dense rainforests and wild ocean queen queens, laundry and barbeque shores of Macquarie Harbour. Aloft is beaches of the west coast. Incredible facilities. Park outside your door. All perfect for a romantic or adventure scenery on a flight you will long cottages are ground level. getaway. remember.

annette & Max deverell 15 Reid Street, t 03 6471 7718 10 andrew st, strahan tas 7468 Strahan TAS 7468 [email protected] t 03 6471 7006 F 03 6471 7897 T 03 6471 8095 M 0427 778 577 www.adventureflights.com.au [email protected] [email protected] www.anchordowncottages.com.au www.aloftaccommodation.com

22 The Western Wilderness The clackety-clack, billowing clouds and shrieking whistle from the steam engine make for an unforgettable day trip.

Now the railway is restored, the strahan West Coast formidable terrain that originally DrIFtWOOD strahan VILLas Wilderness Railway presented such difficulties ensures an exhilarating journey through dense The West Coast Wilderness Railway is rainforest, past cavernous gorges, an engineering marvel. It was built to rushing rivers and toy-town stations. carry heavy equipment out to the mines The clackety-clack, billowing clouds in Queenstown and bring copper back and shrieking whistle from the steam to Strahan, covering 35 kilometres and engine make for an unforgettable day crossing no fewer than 40 bridges. Some trip, a unique fusion of fairground of the intervening hills are very steep, fun, immersion in nature and history Eight quality self-contained one and but with an ingenious toothed third rail two bedroom apartments at ground revisited. The train runs in both that engages with a cog system under floor with undercover parking. Option directions between Strahan and the locomotive, known as the “Abt” after of two queen beds or queen/single Queenstown. beds. Short walk to town centre. its Swiss inventor, it can pull itself up Laundry & BBQ facilities. inclines impossible for ordinary trains. Advance bookings are highly After 67 years of operation the railway recommended. 34 harvey st, was dismantled in 1963, nature rapidly strahan tas 7468 West Coast Wilderness Railway. Image t 03 6471 7618 reclaiming the line as its own. courtesy of Pure Tasmania [email protected] www.driftwoodstrahanvillas.com.au

STRAHAN WEST COAST strahan STRAHAN WILDERNESS RAILWAY OrMIstOn hOUsE THE CRAYS ACCOMMODATION

Ride a steam train into history; cross Beautifully restored, spectacular Harbour Harbour or wilderness views from all high bridges through narrow gorges; views, friendly welcome. Ensuites, comfy 1, 2, and 3 bedroom, architect marvel at the feats of the past as you beds, individual reverse cycle air-con, designed self contained units. Under follow the route the pioneers built today’s comforts. Ground floor accomm, cover parking, guest laundry and a more than a century ago. cosy lounge bar, off-street parking, discount to guests on locally caught internet. cont breakfast included. crayfish.

T 1800 656 111 F 03 6225 3909 1 Esplanade West, 59 The Esplanade, [email protected] strahan tas 7468 Strahan TAS 7468 www.puretasmania.com.au t 03 6471 7077 T 03 6471 7422 M 0419 300 994 [email protected] [email protected] www.ormistonhouse.com.au www.thecraysaccommodation.com

discovertasmania.com 23 Living Art in a Queenstown Mining Town As a tutor and lecturer at the Tasmanian School of Art in the eighties, Raymond Arnold had ample opportunity to indulge his passion ignore this reflex, linger awhile and look for bush walking and nurture an A mining relic of with innocent eyes. a different kind increasing familiarity with the south The hills around are the antithesis of and west coasts of Tasmania. His Queenstown greets visitors with an wilderness, yet have an airy wildness interests, reflected in his art at that ingenious sign, its letters cut through and a liberating sense of scale that stirs time, concerned the relationships a sheet of untreated iron, the ochres, the imagination, the human intervention between industry and nature, and reds and oranges of the rust echoing the so extensive it provokes marvel at its the interaction of human activity and more muted tints of the bare mineral-rich wantonness as if defiantly appropriate landscape. mountains that surround it. As the fine to the grandeur of the topography. With After several years based in Paris, museum amply records, it is first and the soaring shapes of the mountains laid this internationally recognised artist foremost a mining town, whose main street bare in the way that a B&W photograph now lives in Queenstown where he resembles a movie set with the occasional emphasises form over texture, a rich has established “Landscape Art example of creaking nineteenth century palette of creams and lilacs are revealed in Research Queenstown”, (LARQ) a pub, or more substantial civic building. the subtle hues of the stone. Above it all is cultural landmark in the town. This At one end is the West Coast Wilderness Mount Lyell, dressed in salmon pink and not-for-profit studio/gallery exists as Railway terminal past the Empire Hotel, at waiting for the sunset to suffuse it with a a ‘wilderness’ art space where Arnold the other end is the mountain. display of brilliant colour, in an unlikely and can pursue his own art practice. The glorious collaboration of the industrial and gallery is open to the public February After the lushness of west coast forest, the natural worlds. Queenstown can reward to June. the first sight of Queenstown’s barren in unexpected ways. surrounds can be unsettling, as if the Landscape Art Research Gallery, Queen- The Galley Museum, Queenstown. stown. Rick Eaves precedence given to the industrial, but Rick Eaves

QUEENSTOWN QUEENSTOWN QUEENSTOWN THE EMPIRE HOTEL PENGHANA BED & BREAKFAST MT LYELL ANCHORAGE

Offering quality budget accommodation Experience and treasure the luxury Beautiful 1890’s mine manager’s and fantastic meals all day, every of old world hospitality and fine residence. Recently refurbished, 4 day. Built in 1901, this heritage hotel dining at Penghana Bed & Breakfast, bedrooms, 4 bathrooms including 2 new features rooms with en-suites or shared a National Trust Mansion surrounded luxurious ensuites. Communal kitchen, facilities, licensed restaurant, bar, and by rainforest overlooking Queenstown lounge & fireplace. Doubles $120 - $160. car parking. and Mt Owen. Singles/family rates on request.

Opposite the West Coast Wilderness Hosts: Maureen & William Kerr 15-17 Cutten St, Queenstown TAS 7467 Railway Station, 2 Orr Street, Queenstown 32 Esplanade, Queenstown TAS 7467 T 03 6471 1900 F 03 6471 1911 TAS 7467, T 03 6471 1699 T 03 6471 2560 M 0422 990 510 M 0428 429 962 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.empirehotel.net.au www.penghana.com.au www.mtlyellanchorage.com

24 The Western Wilderness Wilderness on the Move

The Lyell Highway from Strahan to Hobart, crosses the watershed dividing the wet western side from the much drier lower eastern part of the island, as you drive the fifty-six kilometres through the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park. Along the way are three outstanding features - a falls, a lookout and a riverbank - that give a sampling of the wonders of the bush, and of the majesty of Tasmania’s Western Wilderness.

Paragon cinema was designed to seat 1100 patrons, The car park to Nelson Falls, twenty five now reduced to far more opulent seating minutes from Queenstown, is reached Theatre for just sixty. shortly after entering the National park Another remarkable man has looked with from the west. Through temperate rain Perhaps, even more remarkably Dr the eyes of an artist, and seen the beauty in forest that includes seven species Stevenson has made a sixty-minute film, Queenstown that can be so easily missed of fern, a pleasant stroll of just ten “A Brief History of this Spot”, that looks if just passing through. Dr Alex Stevenson minutes brings you to the falls. Torrents at the story of the Paragon Theatre and was born in Zimbabwe, and after working in of water may divide into channels, that Queenstown, from now right back to the several locations around the globe, came split again, and again into quickening Big Bang, 14.5 billion years ago. to Queenstown as a GP. In 2003, he bought flows, to blanket the cascading tiers of shiny rock with spuming white, and the dilapidated 1932 cinema, the Paragon In the ultimate endorsement of a particular thunder into the pool below. Theatre, and gradually restored its original place, this is a man who has an interest in Art Deco glory with the addition of some the history of time itself, who has chosen About twenty-five kms further on is hi-tec improvements, such as a state-of- Queenstown to enjoy the present. Donaghys Lookout. Though just twenty the-art laser lighting system, and a new minutes from the road, the panorama digital projector. Indicative of the affluence would scarcely be different if you were of Queenstown at the time, the original Paragon Theatre, Queenstown. twenty days away. On the horizon is the jutting quartzite peak of Frenchmans Cap, glinting white. Far below is the junction of the Collingwood and STRAHAN WEST COAST QUEENSTOWN Franklin Rivers, and on every contour of VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE THE PARAGON THEATRE hill and valley, is a forest of green as far as the eye can see.

Another ten kilometres on you can stop at the banks of the Franklin River. This is a peaceful place, the gentle tinkle and murmur of the water in a very different mood from the rushing river The welcoming staff at the West Coast Queenstown’s Heritage Listed Paragon Visitor Information Centre can help Theatre presents “A Brief History of this that many kilometres downstream was you uncover the riches of Queenstown Spot.” A spectacular film and light show the focus for conservation struggles and make your western wilderness featuring the history of the theatre and experience one to remember. West Coast. Licensed. Cafe showcases some thirty years ago. gourmet Tasmanian produce. “Rest awhile, take it in. Let nature talk Esplanade, Strahan TAS 7468 1 McNamara Street, T 1800 352 200 Queenstown TAS 7467 and drink of her wisdom”. www.westernwilderness.com.au T 03 6471 1217 [email protected] [email protected] www.theparagon.com.au

discovertasmania.com 25 Lake St Clair - The end Central of the Overland Track There are some places which though they are in landscapes of exceptional HIghlands loveliness, are more than just beautiful. They have a quality of significance too, their location is not arbitrary, but intended and satisfying. Lake St Clair is such a place.

Is it history that speaks, or some other energy, as the breeze ripples the surface, etching dancing lines across Australia’s deepest freshwater lake? Teasing the summits, the blue sky holds an occasional fluff of candyfloss cloud, an ethereal companion to residues of snow in the scratched gullies on the mountain flanks, above the eucalypts that frame the lake. The trees gently sway, their branches lightly touching as a lover’s caress, to the music of the leaves that whisper and hum the secrets of the forest.

Trout fishing is popular in season with a permit, and a ferry runs the 13km to Narcissus Bay from near the visitor’s centre, with its restaurant and informative displays. Walks in this magnificent wilderness are also a great option with tracks to suit all ages and abilities.. The Aboriginals, attuned to its mysteries, called the lake “Leewuleena” or “Sleeping Water”. They, too, would have looked Walks in this magnificent wilderness are across at the same mountains under the same everchanging sky. In a world also a great option with tracks to suit all transformed, Lake St Clair slumbers on. ages and abilities.. Lake St Clair. Jo Shemesh

Derwent Bridge - He has called it “The Wall” and this work in progress, is open to the public to view. The Wall His work is phenomenally affecting, When wood-sculptor Greg Duncan, visiting achieved by reconciling impossible from South Australia, first saw Derwent opposites, with masterful technical Bridge, he had the strong sense that this precision. The scenes are highly stylised was where he should live. He made an offer and not true to life at all, but have so much on land which was accepted, fully nine tactile realism and fluidity that if the figures years later. were to step from the wall, it would hardly surprise - an extraordinary achievement, In 2005, Greg started a monumental and a landmark on the road from Strahan art project - a great frieze illustrating Tasmania’s rural life and history, carved in to Hobart. huon pine. Each panel is 3 metres high and when completed in five years time, it will be 100 metres in length. The Wall. James Lauritz

26 The Western Wilderness Fly fishing

This is a landscape of mountain and heath, of muted brown and pastel green flecked with orange and red from shrubs huddling between stunted snow gums that lean as if in deference to the prevailing winds. Nature is king in this “land of a thousand lakes”, the wild and unforgiving Central Highlands of Tasmania, where brown trout flourish in the chilled waters of countless tarns and streams.

As the thinning mists diffuse the rising sun across dappled water, the air fresh with the scent of mountain and the stillness all- of light on its underbelly, and the first fish fine wines satisfy as a worthy conclusion to pervasive, a place of sovereign beauty and of the day is in the bag. Later, a cooked the best fly-fishing in the world. utter tranquillity, the hunt begins for the breakfast at the lodge before sight fishing, elusive trout. A tremor on the line, a flash and in the evening, Tasmanian cuisine and Trout fishing. George Apostolidis

Tarraleah Wildside Restaurant has a list of over 300 dairy and a church, it is the general store wines. A five-star Lodge is exquisitely that has traded since the 1950’s which has & Bronte Park appointed with its own hot-tub bathhouse outlived the rest. It sells groceries, fuel The remote lakes and rivers of the Central in an adjacent chalet that opens to views and a range of hunting and fishing gear Highlands are home to the world’s best across the River Nive, for a true sense of to a clientele drawn largely from Bronte trout fishing, but this wild and beautiful nature in the raw. Originally built in the Park Highland Village. This resort features place can be easily accessed from several 1930’s, several renovated cottages are once a lodge, spa cottages, cabins, dorms and again furnished in Art Deco style. tourist resorts that combine the lure of the a campsite so there is a something here wild with luxury, excellent amenities and The other “Hydro” town resurrected as an for everyone wishing to enjoy the delights fine cuisine. oasis for dedicated anglers, is Bronte Park, of nearby Lake Big Jim or any of the other Once a town for many thousands of just twenty kilometres north of Tarraleah myriad waterways that make the Central workers on the region’s great Hydro-Electric and almost exactly at the geographic “dead Highlands a perfect retreat from the urban power schemes, Tarraleah has a “Library” centre” of Tasmania. Once with a police sta- melee, and a dreamscape for discerning bar boasting 120 malt whiskeys and its tion, post office, school, cinema, hospital, fishermen from around the world.

HOBART TASMANIAN TRAVEL DERWENT BRIDGE – HOBART BRONTE PARK HIGHLAND CABINS & INFORMATION CENTRE RIVERS RUN TOURING ROUTE AND COTTAGES AT BRONTE PARK

For ideas, suggestions, advice and Take in the beauty of Tasmania’s forests, Fully self-contained modern local secrets that will make your lakes and rivers. Travel to Hobart via accommodation, offering spa cabins, Tasmanian holiday just perfect for Derwent Bridge, Bronte Park, Miena, family cottages and studio apartments. you, contact the Tasmanian experts Tarraleah, Wayatinah, Ouse, Hamilton, Visit Bronte Park on route from Strahan – Tasmanian Travel & Information Bothwell, Westerway, Maydena, for kayaking, bushwalking, guided trout Centre. Strathgordon and New Norfolk. fishing, boat hire and wildlife tours.

Hobart Airport and Corner Elizabeth [email protected] Marlborough Highway, & Davey Streets, Hobart TAS 7000 www.riversrun.net.au Bronte Park TAS 7140 1800 990 440 T 03 6289 1029 [email protected] [email protected] www.hobarttravelcentre.com.au www.highlandcabinstasmania.com.au

discovertasmania.com 27 Mole Creek

Mole Creek is surrounded by countryside of great rustic charm and natural beauty, both above and below ground.

MOLE CREEK www.MOLECREEK.infO MOLE CREEK HOTEL MOLE CREEK GUEST HOUSE MOLE CREEK LODGE B&B

Famous for the Tassie Tiger Bar and gift “One of Tasmania’s best B&B’s” as Spacious ensuite accommodation, idyllic shop, delicious country style meals, quoted by THE AGE ’52 Weekends location, friendly hosts, great breakfasts - comfortable cosy accommodation with Away’. Mole Creek Guest House offers just perfect! $135 double per night. outstanding hospitality and service. warm hospitality, appealing en-suite accommodation and superb food. 484 Caveside Road, Mole Creek TAS 7304 90 Pioneer Drive, Mole Creek TAS 7304 100 Pioneer Drive, Mole Creek TAS 7304 T 03 6367 8227 T 03 6363 1102 www.molecreekhotel.com T 03 6363 1399 www.molecreekgh.com.au www.molecreekbedandbreakfast.com

28 The Western Wilderness Above and below, and bush walks follow in the footsteps of Like an antipodean Noah’s Ark, Trowunna hunters, trappers and loggers up the face Wildlife Park is home to an impressive endless wonder of the Great Western Tiers. For a man-made variety of marsupials, reptiles and birds, At the gateway to iconic Cradle Mountain, marvel, visit the superlative Wychwood and for a breeding program for Tasmanian and overlooked by the imperious Garden, one of Australia’s best. Fishing Devils. Trowunna provides a sanctuary for escarpment of the Great Western Tiers, Mole for trout is a popular pastime too in the our precious wildlife, as well as research Creek is surrounded by countryside of great many lakes and rivers nearby and cyclists and educational opportunities, and a rustic charm and natural beauty, both above can choose from four routes for differing wonderful atmosphere to reconnect with and below ground. The peaceful village with experiences; gourmet, world heritage, caves natural Tasmania. its plentiful accommodation and services, and country. With its markets, herb producers and honey makes an ideal base if touring the central To the west is the Mole Creek Karst National farms, Mole Creek is well served by nature. north of Tasmania or if spending time more Park with its spectacular gorges, nature But in this place of contrasts, from bucolic locally for the many attractions the region trails to waterfalls, underground streams peacefulness to towering grandeur and has to offer. and springs and a bewildering labyrinth of extraordinary subterranean mysteries, this is This is a bush walker’s nirvana. World over three hundred caves and sinkholes. a land that is truly unique. Heritage listed National Parks are readily The best known of the Mole Creek Caves are accessed, including the extraordinary Walls King Solomons and Marakoopa Caves, where of Jerusalem. Trails lead to spectacular the mesmerising glow-worm display is the (left) Marakoopa Cave. Paul Flood (above) Trowunna Wildlife Park. Lap Fung Lam lookouts at Alum Cliffs and Devils Gullet, largest of any public access cave in Australia. (above right) Alum Cliffs. Geoffrey Lea Join us Living with on a journey through time Tasmanian Mole Creek Caves Wildlife TROWUNNA WILDLIFE PARK

Call today for tour times, phone 6363 5182 www.parks.tas.gov.au

Open 7 days

Daily interactive and 1892 Mole Creek Road educational tours Phone 6363 6162 [email protected] Department of Primary Industries, Parks, Water and Environment Group bookings welcome www.trowunna.com.au

discovertasmania.com 29 SPRING 2010 AUTUMN 2011 Tullah Challenge SteamFest Events Date: 6th November 2010 Date: 5th – 7th March 2011 Venue: Tullah Venue: Redwater Creek Steam Railway, AUTUMN 2010 The Tullah Challenge is an annual event Sheffield Queenstown Heritage held in the lakeside village of Tullah in The weekend features extensive displays the rugged mountains and rainforests of vintage machinery, train rides, traction and Arts Festival of Tasmania’s West Coast. This event is engines, steam rollers, vintage cars, farm Date: 14th – 16th May 2010 run by local volunteers in this beautiful, tractors, tractor pulling competitions, Venue: Queenstown challenging and friendly setting with the farm practices from the steam era – e.g. Art and craft workshops, Exhibitions , generous help of our sponsors. sheep shearing, stationary engines, craft live music, films, book readings, oral displays, bands, entertainment and food histories, circus entertainment, mine and stalls. heritage tours and train rides all in a 2 ½ The Zeehan Gem day program combining contemporary arts and Mineral Fair practices with the rich cultural heritage of Date: 6th & 7th November 2010 The Wilderness Gallery Queenstown. Venue: Zeehan Primary School International Muralfest This is Tasmania’s main annual gem and Date: 24th – 30th April 2011 mineral show, and includes displays of Venue: Sheffield WINTER 2010 Gems, Jewellery, Minerals, Crystals, Opals, International Mural Fest is a truly unique Tastings at the Top Beads, Fossils and more. art competition that is held annually in Date: 26th – 28th June 2010 Sheffield - Town of Murals. In 2011, The Venue: Cradle Mountain Lodge Wilderness Gallery International Mural Fest

Cradle Mountain Lodge celebrates its SUMMER 2010 begins on April 24 and concludes on April 30. 16th year as Tasmania’s premier culinary Rosebery Sports Carnival event ‘Tastings at the Top’. A gourmet Date: 18th December 2010 Taste of the North West Venue: Rosebery Park Oval extravaganza rated among the country’s Date: 30th April 2011 The first of the annual Tasmanian best food and wine experiences; a 3-day Venue: King George V Park Christmas Carnivals Series, Rosebery hosts festival celebrating the finer things in Taste of the North West is a showcase of this exciting carnival of athletics, cycling, life - a chance to celebrate the very best in Tasmania’s North West region’s finest and wood chopping. Rosebery Park Oval, Tasmanian produce. For further information food and beverages, held in Sheffield’s Park Road, Rosebery and bookings, phone 1300 806 192 or email picturesque King George V Park with [email protected] majestic Mount Roland as a backdrop. First staged in April 2009, the event coincides with the final Saturday of Sheffield’s annual Mural Fest, ensuring two great reasons to visit Tassie’s “Town of Murals”.

Tullah Challenge. Greg Love

30 The Western Wilderness D

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Devonport SMITHTON Rocky Cape Terminal Port National Park Mt William Marrawah Latta National Park West Boat Harbour Point Table Cape Gladstone WYNYARD Bridport Eddystone Point Somerset BURNIE Narawntapu National Park GEORGE Penguin TOWN Pipers Bay VERSTONE River Derby UL DEVONPORT Yolla SCOTTSDALE of Ridgley Port Beauty Pt Sorell Beaconsfield Fires Forth Ringarooma LATROBE Hampshire Lilydale Binalong Bay The Tarkine Gunns Plains Exeter Savage River Barrington Railton Frankford ST HELENS National Park Nietta Sheffield Wilmot Sandy Cape Waratah Elizabeth Town LAUNCESTON Mathinna Scamander DELORAINE Savage River Westbury Ben Lomond PERTH Mole Creek Evandale National Park Ironhouse Point Longford Mole Creek Karst Deddington St Marys Nile Cradle Valley National Park Rossarden Fingal Corinna Cressy Douglas Apsley National S Avoca Cleveland Park Rosebery Cradle Mountain Poatina O Conara - Lake St Clair National Park Walls of Bicheno U Zeehan Jerusalem Campbell Town National Park T Miena Freycinet H Ross National Park E QUEENSTOWN Bronte Coles Bay Park Swansea STRAHAN Derwent Bridge R Tunbridge

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C Mowbray Triabunna Maria Island rt a Kempton Colebrook b Orford National Park o E H t Hamilton Darlington o r t a Mount Field Buckland e ob A Bagdad Maria id H National la to Island e e d n Park A ur N Gretna t o c lb National Park Bushy Brighton e e rt Richmond ir M oba Park D ct o H BRIDGEWATER ire ey t SORELL D Sydn Strathgordon irect t Maydena D o Hobar NEW NORFOLK Cambridge Copping Direct Brisbane t D GLENORCHY irect Canber ra to Hobart Dunalley HOBART Lauderdale

KINGSTON Low Rocky South Arm Eaglehawk Neck Point HUONVILLE Margate Snug Tasman Franklin Kettering Nubeena Southwest Cygnet Port Tasman Woodbridge National Park Geeveston Peninsula Arthur National Park Cape Pillar Hartz Mtns Cape Raoul National Park Dover BRUNY Alonnah Adventure Bay Melaleuca Southport ISLAND

South Bruny National Park South West Cape Cockle Creek Maatsuyker Group South East Cape

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Tasmania is extraordinarily diverse. Get your copy of any of our five unique Holiday Planners to help you explore the best experiences Tasmania has to offer.Visit discovertasmania.com or call 1300 TASSIE.

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