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1 The Best of

Everyone ventures to Oahu seeking a different experience. Some talk about wanting to find the “real” , some are looking for heart-pounding adventure, some yearn for the relaxing and healing powers of the islands, and others are drawn by Hawaii’s aloha spirit, in which kindness and friendliness prevail. This book is designed to help you have the vacation of your dreams. For those too excited to page through from beginning to end, this chapter highlights the very best of what and Oahu have to offer.

1 The Best Oahu Experiences To have the absolute best experiences on Hawaii and ignore the underwater Oahu, be prepared for a different culture, world, you’re missing half of what language, cuisine, and way of doing makes up this paradise. See chapter 6. things. Slow down—you’re on an island • Meet Local Folks: If you go to that operates on its own schedule. To Hawaii and see only people like the really experience Oahu, we recommend ones back home, you might as well the following: stay home. Extend yourself, leave the • Get out on the Water: You’ll take resorts and tourist quarters, go out and home memories of an emerald island learn about Hawaii and its people. Just rising out of the cobalt sea with white smile and say “Howzit?” which means wispy clouds set against an azure sky, “How’s it going?”—and you’ll usually or the Waikiki shoreline colored by make a new friend. Oahu is remark- the setting sun. There are many dif- ably cosmopolitan; every ethnic group ferent boats to choose from, ranging in the world seems to be here. It’s fas- from tiny kayaks to 100-foot sight- cinating to discover the varieties of seeing vessels, even state-of-the-art food, culture, language, and customs. boats guaranteed to prevent seasick- • Drive to the : Just an ness. See chapter 6 for details on all hour’s drive from Honolulu, the kinds of cruises and watersports. North Shore is another world: a pas- • Plunge underCOPYRIGHTED the Water: Don mask, toral, MATERIALrural setting with magnificent fins, and snorkel and dive into the beaches and a slower way of life. Dur- magical world beneath the surface, ing the winter months, stop and where clouds of colorful tropical fish watch the professionals surf the mon- flit by, craggy old turtles lumber ster waves. See chapter 7. along, and tiny marine creatures • Watch the Hula: This is Hawaii, so hover over exotic corals. Can’t swim? you have to experience the hula. A Take one of the many submarines or hula performance is a popular way for semi-submersibles. If you come to visitors to get a taste of traditional 04_134825 ch01.qxp10/11/0711:13AMPage5

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THE BEST OAHU EXPERIENCES 7

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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OAHU Hawaiian culture. For a more gen- 1941, the day that Japanese war- uine Hawaiian hula experience, catch planes bombed Pearl Harbor. Stand- the hula halau performed Monday ing on the deck of the USS Arizona through Friday at 1pm at the Bishop Memorial, which straddles the eter- Museum. See chapter 7. nal tomb for the 1,177 sailors and • Experience a Turning Point in Marines trapped below deck when America’s History: The United the battleship sank in 9 minutes, is a States could no longer turn its back moment you’ll never forget. See on World War II after December 7, chapter 7.

2 The Best Beaches See chapter 6 for complete details on all the windward side of the island. On these beaches and their facilities. weekends, local families consider it • Waikiki Beach: This famous stretch the place to go. Weekdays, you prac- of sand is the spot that originally put tically have it all to yourself. Hawaii on the tourist map. No beach • Kahana Bay Beach Park: With salt- anywhere is so widely known or so and-pepper sand, a crescent-shaped 1 universally sought as this narrow, 1 ⁄2- beach protected by ironwoods and mile-long crescent of soft sand at the kamani trees and, as a backdrop, a foot of a string of high-rise hotels. lush junglelike valley interrupted Home to the world’s longest-running only by jagged cliffs, you’d swear this beach party, Waikiki attracts nearly beach was in Tahiti or Bora Bora. five million visitors a year from every Kahana offers great swimming (even corner of the planet. In high season, safe for children), good fishing, and it’s packed towel-to-towel, but there’s perfect conditions for kayaking. no denying the beauty of Waikiki. Combine that with picnic areas, • Lanikai Beach: Hidden, off the camping, and hiking trails, and you beaten tourist path, this beach on the have one of the best beaches on the windward side has a mile of powder- island. soft sand and water that’s safe for • Malaekahana Beach: If you’d like to swimming. It’s the perfect isolated venture back to Hawaii before jet spot for a morning of swimming and planes brought millions of people to relaxation. With the prevailing trade Oahu, back to the days when there winds, it’s also excellent for sailing were few footprints on the sand, then and windsurfing. Sun-worshipers go north to the romantic wooded should arrive in the morning, as the beach park at Malaekahana. This is a shadow of the Koolau Mountains place to sit in quiet solitude or to blocks the sun’s rays in the afternoon. beachcomb along the shore. There’s • Kailua Beach: Imagine a 30-acre good swimming most of the time, public park with a broad, grassy area and good snorkeling when it’s calm, with picnic tables, a public boat but no lifeguard. Surprisingly, very ramp, restrooms, a pavilion, a volley- few visitors come to Malaekahana— ball court, and food stands. Add a one of the best beaches on Oahu, it’s wide, sandy beach, great for diving, a true find. swimming, sailing, snorkeling, and • Sunset Beach: Surfers around the board- and windsurfing, and you’ve world know this site famous for its got Kailua Beach, which is tops on spectacular winter surf—the waves 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 9

THE BEST SNORKELING & DIVING SITES 9 can be huge, thundering peaks reach- the summer this same bay is glassy and ing 15 to 20 feet. In the summer calm—a great place for swimming, months, Sunset calms down and snorkeling, and diving. Oh, and by becomes a safe swimming beach. It’s a the way, despite what the Beach Boys great place to people-watch year- croon in “Surfin’ USA” (Why-a-mee- round, as you’ll spot everybody from ah), it’s pronounced Why-may-ah. wannabe Baywatch babes to King • Pokai Bay: If you dream of a pow- Kong surfers. dered-sugar sand beach, a place you • Waimea Bay: Here is one of Oahu’s can swim, snorkel, and probably be most dramatic beaches. During much the only one on the beach (on week- of the winter—October to April— days), try this off-the-beaten-path huge waves come pounding in, creat- shoreline. Surrounded by a reef, the ing strong rip currents. Even expert waters inside are calm enough for surfers think twice when confronted children and offer excellent snorkel- with 30-foot waves that crash on the ing. Come with aloha spirit and a shore with the force of a runaway loco- respect for local customs—the resi- motive. It’s hard to believe that during dents here don’t see too many visitors.

3 The Best Snorkeling & Diving Sites A different Hawaii greets anyone with a for those interested in wreck diving. mask, snorkel, and fins. Under the sea, One of the more famous wrecks in you’ll find schools of brilliant tropical Hawaii is the Mahi, a 185-foot for- fish, slow-moving green sea turtles, dart- mer minesweeper, which is easily ing game fish, slack-jawed moray eels, accessible just south of Waianae. and prehistoric-looking coral. It’s a kalei- Abundant marine life makes it a great doscope of color and wonder. For more place to shoot photos—schools of on exploring Oahu’s underwater world, lemon butterflyfish and ta’ape are so see chapter 6. comfortable with divers and photog- • Hanauma Bay: It can get very raphers that they practically pose. crowded, but—for clear, warm, calm Eagle rays, green sea turtles, manta waters, an abundance of fish that are rays, and white-tipped sharks occa- so friendly they’ll swim right up to sionally cruise by, and eels peek out your face mask, a beautiful setting, from the wreck. and easy access—there’s no place like • Kahuna Canyon: One of the most Hanauma Bay. Just wade in waist magical summer dive spots is Kahuna deep and look down to see more Canyon. Walls rise from the ocean than 50 species of reef and inshore floor to create the illusion of an fish common to Hawaiian waters. underwater Grand Canyon. Inside Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow inner the canyon, crab, octopi, slipper, and bay—it’s really like swimming in an spiny lobsters abound (be aware that outdoor aquarium. Serious, experi- taking them in the summer is illegal), enced divers shoot “the slot,” a pas- and giant trevally, parrotfish, and sage through the reef, to gain access unicorn tangs congregate. Outside, to Witch’s Brew, a turbulent cove, you’re likely to see the occasional and other outer-reef experiences. shark in the distance. • Wreck of the Mahi: Oahu is a won- • Shark’s Cove: Braver snorkelers derful place to scuba dive, especially might want to head to Shark’s Cove, 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OAHU on the North Shore just off Kame- • Kapiolani Park Beach: In the center hameha Highway, between Haleiwa of this beach park, a section known and Pupukea. Sounds risky, we know, as Queen’s Beach or Queen’s Surf but we’ve never seen or heard of any Beach, between the Natatorium and sharks in this cove; and in summer the Waikiki Aquarium, is great for this big, lava-edged pool is one of snorkeling. I prefer the reef in front Oahu’s best snorkeling spots. Waves of the Aquarium because it has easy splash over the natural lava grotto access to the sandy shoreline and the and cascade like waterfalls into the waters are usually calm. Bonus: it’s pool full of tropical fish. Deep-sea right next door to the Aquarium in caves to explore are to the right of the case you see any flora or fauna you cove. would like more information about.

4 The Best Golf Courses Oahu is golf country, with 5 municipal, 9 • Makaha Resort Golf Club (& 808/ military, and 20 private courses to choose 695-7111 or 808/695-5239): Read- from. The courses range from 9-hole ers of Honolulu named this challeng- municipals, perfect for beginners, to ing course Oahu’s best, and in 2002 championship courses that stump even the the readers of Golfweek rated it in pros. See chapter 6 for complete details. Hawaii’s top 10. An hour’s drive from • Ko Olina Golf Club (& 808/676- the crowds of Honolulu, this William 5309): Golf Digest named this beauti- Bell–designed course is in Makaha ful 6,867-yard, par-72 course one of Valley on the island’s leeward side. “America’s Top 75 Resort Courses” Incredibly beautiful, sheer, 1,500- when it opened in 1992. The rolling foot volcanic walls tower over the fairways and elevated tees and a few course, and swaying palm trees and too many water features (always bright bougainvillea surround it; an where you don’t want them) will def- occasional peacock even struts across initely improve your game or humble the fairways. “I was distracted by the your attitude. beauty” is a great excuse for your & score at day’s end. • Turtle Bay Resort ( 808/293- & 8574): Of the two courses to choose • Olomana Golf Links ( 808/259- from here, we recommend the 18- 7926): This gorgeous course in hole Course (for- Waimanalo is on the other side of the merly the Links at Kuilima), designed island from Waikiki. The low-handi- by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay. They cap golfer may not find this course never meant for golfers to get off too difficult, but the striking views of the easy—this is a challenging course. craggy Koolau mountain ridges are The front 9 holes, with rolling terrain, worth the greens fees alone. The par- only a few trees, and lots of wind, play 72, 6,326-yard course is popular with like a course on the British Isles. The local residents and visitors. The course back 9 holes have narrower, tree-lined starts off a bit hilly on the front 9, but fairways and water. In addition to flattens out by the back 9. The back 9 ocean views, the course circles Puna- have their own special surprises, hoolapa Marsh, a protected wetland including tricky water hazards. for endangered Hawaiian waterfowl. 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 11

THE BEST VIEWS 11

5 The Best Walks The weather on Oahu is usually sunny, • Manoa Falls Trail: This easy .75-mile with trade winds providing cooling (one-way) hike is terrific for families; breezes—perfect for a walk. Below are it takes less than an hour to reach idyl- our favorites, from city to trail. lic Manoa Falls. The often-muddy • Diamond Head Crater: Most every- trail follows Waihi Stream and mean- one can make this moderate walk to ders through the forest reserve past the summit of Hawaii’s most famous guava and mountain apple trees and landmark. Kids love the top of the wild ginger. The forest is moist and 760-foot volcanic cone, where they humid and inhabited by nothing have 360-degree views of Oahu up more dangerous than giant blood- the leeward coast from Waikiki. The thirsty mosquitoes. See chapter 6. 1.4-mile round-trip takes about an • Chinatown: Honolulu’s Chinatown hour. See chapter 6. appeals to the senses: The pungent • Makiki–Manoa Cliff Trails: A 15- aroma of Vietnamese pho mingles minute drive from downtown, this with the sweet scent of burning walk passes through a rainforest and incense; vendors and shoppers speak along a ridgetop with nonstop views. noisily in the open market; retired The somewhat strenuous loop trail is men talk story over games of mah- one you’ll never forget, but it’s more jongg; and the constant buzz of traf- than 6 miles long, gains 1,260 feet in fic all contribute to the cacophony of elevation, and takes about 3 hours to sounds. No trip to Honolulu is com- finish. The views of the city and the plete without a visit to this exotic, shoreline are spectacular. See chapter 6. historic district. See chapter 7.

6 The Best Views • Puu Ualakaa State Park: Watching set amid jagged cliffs piercing the the sun set into the Pacific from a puffy white clouds that go racing by. 1,048-foot hill named after a sweet 1,000 feet below, the island is a carpet potato is actually much more roman- of green that runs to an azure Pacific tic that it sounds. Puu Ualakaa trans- dotted by tiny offshore islets. You’ll lates into “rolling sweet potato hill,” feel like you’re standing on the edge which refers to how the early Hawai- of the world. See chapter 7. ians harvested the crop. Don’t miss • Diamond Head Crater: The view the sweeping panoramic views, which from atop this world-famous 720- extend from Diamond Head across foot-tall sleeping volcano is not to be Waikiki and downtown Honolulu, missed. The 360-degree view from over the airport and Pearl City, all the Koko Crater to Barbers Point and the way to the Waianae range. Catch great Waianae mountains is worth the 560- photo ops during the day, romantic foot hike. See chapter 6. sunset views in the evening, and starry • Lanikai Beach: This is one of the skies at night. See chapter 7. best places on Oahu to greet the sun- • Nuuanu Pali Lookout: Oahu’s best- rise. Watch the sky slowly move from looking side, the Windward Coast, pitch black to burnt orange as the sun can be seen in its full glory from the begins to rise over the two tiny off- Nuuanu Pali Lookout, a gusty perch shore islands of Mokulua. This is a 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OAHU five-senses experience: birds singing historic site. Located on a 300-foot the sun up; a gentle breeze on your bluff, the heiau encompasses some 5 face; the taste of salt in the air; the acres. Hawaiians still come here to smell of the ocean, the sand, and the pray—you may see offerings such as fragrant flowers nearby; and the ti leaves, flowers, and fruit. Don’t dis- kaleidoscope of colors as another day turb the offerings or walk on the dawns. See chapter 6. stones—it’s very disrespectful. The • Puu O Mahuka Heiau: Once the view from this bluff is awe-inspiring, largest sacrificial temple on Oahu, from Waimea Bay all the way to Puu O Mahuka Heiau is now a state Kaena Point. See chapter 7.

7 The Best Adventures for Thrill-Seekers See chapter 6 for details on these and • Leap into the Ocean: Even though all many other adventures. the signs say DANGEROUS, STAY OFF • Soar in Silence in a Glider: Soaring THE ROCKS, a favorite pastime on through silence on gossamer-like Oahu is climbing the stone precipice wings with a panoramic view of Oahu at Waimea Beach Park and leaping is an unforgettable experience. Glider into the ocean. This is for experienced rides are available at Dillingham Air swimmers in summer only, as the Field, in Mokuleia, on Oahu’s North thundering winter waves drive every- Shore. The glider is towed behind a one from the sea, except the profes- plane; at the right altitude, the tow is sional surfers and the very, very stupid. dropped, and you (and the glider • Venture into the Deep: It’s Hawaii— pilot) are left to soar in the thermals. you have to see what’s under the • Surf Waikiki in a Hawaiian Outrig- waves. Try scuba diving; you can enjoy ger Canoe: It’s summertime and a “scuba experience” with absolutely there’s a South Pacific swell rolling into no previous diving experience. Here’s Waikiki from Tahiti; here’s your chance your opportunity to glide weightlessly to try surfing—in a Hawaiian outrigger through the ocean while you admire canoe. Numerous beach concessions the multicolored marine creatures. on Waikiki Beach offer the chance to • Eyeball-to-eyeball with a Shark: paddle an outrigger canoe and surf You’re 4 miles out from land, which is back into Waikiki. Not only do you get just a speck on the horizon, with hun- a great view of the beach from offshore, dreds of feet of open ocean. Suddenly but the thrill of actually catching a from out of the blue depths a shape wave and gliding back into shore. emerges: the sleek, pale shadow of a 6- • Float on the Thermals on a Tandem foot-long gray reef shark, followed Hang Glider: See things from a quickly by a couple of 10-foot-long bird’s-eye view (literally) as you and Galápagos sharks. Within a few heart- an instructor float high above Oahu beats, you’re surrounded by sharks on on a tandem hang glider. all sides. Do you panic? No, you are on the North Shore Shark Adventure.

8 The Best Places to Discover the Real Oahu Oahu isn’t just any other beach destina- worth getting to know. If you want to tion. It has a wonderfully rich, ancient meet the “local” folks who live on Oahu, history and culture, and people who are check out the following: 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 13

THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS 13 • Watch the Ancient Hawaiian Sport services. Before you leave, be sure to of Outrigger Canoe Paddling: From check out the lei sellers on Maunakea February to September, on weekday Street (near N. Hotel St.), where evenings and weekend days, hun- Hawaii’s finest leis go for as little as dreds of canoe paddlers gather at Ala $3.50. See chapter 7 for neighbor- Wai Canal and practice the Hawaiian hood walking tours and details on sport of canoe paddling. Find a com- where to buy leis. fortable spot at Ala Wai Park, next to • Observe the Fish Auction: There is the canal, and watch this ancient nothing else quite like the Honolulu sport come to life. See the Calendar Fish Auction at the United Fishing of Events in chapter 2, “Planning Agency, Pier 38, 1131 N. Nimitz Your Trip to Oahu.” Hwy., Honolulu (& 808/536-2148). • Attend a Hawaiian-Language Fishermen bring their fresh catch in at Church Service: Kawaiahao Church 5:30am (sharp) Monday through Sat- (& 808/522-1333) is the Westmin- urday, and the small group of buyers ster Abbey of Hawaii; the vestibule is bids on all manner of fish. The auc- lined with portraits of the Hawaiian tion lasts until all the fish are sold. It monarchy, many of whom were coro- is well worth getting up early to enjoy nated in this very building. The coral this unique cultural experience. See church is a perfect setting to experi- the Fish Markets section of chapter 8. ence an all-Hawaiian service, held • Get a Bargain at the Aloha Flea every Sunday at 9am, complete with Market: For 50¢ admission, it’s an Hawaiian song. See p. 197. all-day show at the Aloha Stadium • Buy a Lei from Vendors in China- parking lot, where more than 1,000 town: A host of cultural sights and vendors sell everything from junk to experiences are to be had in Hon- jewels. Go early for the best deals. olulu’s Chinatown. Wander through Open Wednesday, Saturday, and Sun- this several-square-block area with its day from 6am to 3pm. See the box jumble of exotic shops offering herbs, “Favorite Oahu Experiences,” in Chinese groceries, and acupuncture chapter 6.

9 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts • Halekulani (& 800/367-2343 or • Embassy Suites Hotel–Waikiki 808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com): Beach Walk (& 800/EMBASSY or Halekulani translates into “House 808/921-2345; www.waikikibeach. Befitting Heaven,” an apt description embassysuites.com): Just opened for this luxury resort spread over 5 in 2007, this ultra-luxurious one- acres of prime Waikiki beachfront and two-bedroom-suite hotel chain property. When money is no object, (known for its complimentary, all- this is the place to stay. The atmos- you-can-eat, cooked-to-order break- phere of elegance envelops you as soon fast and evening manager’s cocktail as you step into the lobby. Even if you reception) has one of the most central don’t stay here, drop by at sunset to sip locations in Waikiki and is loaded on a mai tai at the gracious House with amenities. When you pencil it Without a Key and listen to Sonny out, it’s actually a good “deal” for Kamehele sing Hawaiian songs as a families. See p. 88. graceful hula dancer sways to the • Royal Hawaiian (& 800/325-3535 music. See p. 89. or 808/923-7311; www.sheraton.com): 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OAHU Hidden in the jungle of concrete enough (about a 15-min. walk) to buildings that make up Waikiki is an shops and restaurants—this is a per- oasis of verdant gardens and a shock- fect location. See p. 104. ingly pink building. The Royal Hawai- • Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach ian Hotel, affectionately called the Resort & Spa (& 800/HILTONS or “pink palace,” is known around the 808/949-4321; www.hiltonhawaiian world as a symbol of luxury. Since the village.com): Waikiki’s biggest resort, first day it opened in 1927, the Royal this place is so big it even has its own has been the place to stay for celebri- post office. Some 3,000 rooms are ties, including Clark Gable, Shirley spread over 20 acres with tropical gar- Temple, President Franklin Roosevelt, dens, thundering waterfalls, exotic the Beatles, Kevin Costner, and others. wildlife, award-winning restaurants, Its location is one of the best on nightly entertainment, two brand- Waikiki Beach. See p. 91. new state-of-the-art spas, 100 differ- • Moana Surfrider Hotel, A Westin ent shops, children’s programs, Resort (& 800/325-3535 or 808/ fabulous ocean activities, a secluded 922-3111; www.moana-surfrider. lagoon, three swimming pools, com): Step back in time to Old Hawaiian cultural activities, two Hawaii at the grand Moana Surfrider minigolf courses, and Waikiki Beach. Hotel, built in 1901. Entry is You could spend your entire vacation through the original colonial porte- here and never leave the property. See cochere, past the highly polished p. 85. wooden front porch, with white • Kahala Hotel & Resort (& 800/ wooden rocking chairs, and into the 367-2525 or 808/739-8888; www. perfectly restored lobby with its kahalaresort.com): Since 1964, when detailed millwork and intricate plas- Conrad Hilton first opened this hotel ter detailing on the ceiling. Time as a place for rest and relaxation, far seems to slow down here, tropical from the crowds of Waikiki, the flowers arranged in huge sprays are Kahala has always been rated one of everywhere, and everyone in the Hawaii’s premier hotels. A venerable lobby seems to be smiling. At check- Who’s Who of celebrities have stayed in, guests are greeted with a lei and a at the hotel, including every presi- glass of fruit juice. This is a hotel not dent since Richard Nixon, a host of only with class, but also with historic rock stars from the Rolling Stones to charm. See p. 90. the Beach Boys, and a range of actors • W Honolulu (& 800/782-9488 or from John Wayne to Bette Midler. 808/922-1700; www.whotels.com): The Kahala is a completely up-to- It’s expensive, but worth every penny, date resort, with exotic Asian to be totally pampered in a low-key, touches, but it retains the grace and elegantly casual hotel that caters to elegance of a softer, gentler time in the business traveler but takes excel- the islands. See p. 111. lent care of vacationers, too. The W • J. W. Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa Honolulu can be summed up in a at Ko Olina Resort (& 800/626- nutshell by the button on your room 4446 or 808/679-0079; www.ihilani. phone that says “whatever/when- com): Located in the quiet of Oahu’s ever.” That’s what we call service! If west coast, 25 minutes west of Hon- you’re craving peace and quiet—away olulu International Airport—and from the crowds of Waikiki but close worlds away from the tourist scene of 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 15

THE BEST BARGAIN ACCOMMODATIONS 15 Waikiki—the Ihilani (which means hotel is back. The resort is spectacular: “heavenly splendor”) is the first hotel an hour’s drive from Waikiki, but in the 640-acre Ko Olina Resort. It eons away in its country feeling. Sit- features a luxury spa and fitness cen- ting on 808 acres, Turtle Bay is loaded ter, plus championship tennis and with activities and 5 miles of shoreline golf. The plush rooms are spacious, with secluded white-sand coves. All with huge lanais and lagoon or ocean the rooms have great views, but the views from some 85% of the units. separate beach cottages are positioned With luxury like this, who misses right on the ocean (the views alone are Waikiki? See p. 117. worth the price). The 42 bungalows • Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/ have been renovated (hardwood 203-3650 or 808/293-6000; www. floors, poster beds with feather com- turtlebayresort.com): After a $35 mil- forters) and have their own check-in lion renovation, this once sterling and private concierge. See p. 115.

10 The Best Bargain Accommodations It is possible to stay on Oahu without to be the bargain of Waikiki. For $47 having to take out a second mortgage. (about the same price a couple would Here are some options. pay to stay in a private room at the • The Breakers (& 800/426-0494 hostel in Waikiki), you get a room in or 808/923-3181; www.breakers- the older Mauka Wing, with a double hawaii.com): Full of old-fashioned bed or two twins, plus a kitchenette Hawaiian aloha—and it’s only steps with refrigerator and stove. See p. 108. from the sands of Waikiki—this two- • Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (& 866/ story hotel has a friendly staff and a 638-8229 or 808/638-8829; www. loyal following. Each of the tastefully keikibeach.com): Snuggled on a large decorated, large rooms comes with a lot with its own 200-foot stretch of lanai and a kitchenette, with prices white-sand beach between two leg- starting at $125. See p. 96. endary North Shore surf spots • Hawaiiana Hotel (& 800/367-5122 (Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline), or 808/923-3811; www.hawaiiana this collection of studio, one-, and hotelatwaikiki.com): “The spirit of two-bedroom cottages offers afford- Old Hawaii”—The hotel’s slogan says able family bungalows with complete it all. This intimate low-rise hotel has kitchens—if you can live without guest rooms that feature kitchenettes, being right on the ocean, the garden two beds (a double and a single, or a units start at $120. See p. 116. queen and a sofa bed), a view of the • Rainbow Inn (& 808/488-7525): gardens, two swimming pools, and a This private tropical garden studio location a block from the beach. has panoramic views of Pearl Harbor, Rooms start at $125. See p 97. the entire south coast of Oahu, and • Royal Grove Hotel (& 808/923- the Waianae and Koolau mountains. 7691; www.royalgrovehotel.com): A large deck and full-size pool are just This small, family-owned hotel is a outside your door. Rainbow Inn is a great bargain for frugal travelers. What short drive from all of Oahu’s attrac- you get here is old-fashioned aloha in tions, yet far enough away to provide cozy accommodations along the lines you with lots of peace and quiet. At of Motel 6—basic and clean. And you $115 a night, this is one of Oahu’s can’t do better for the price—this has best deals. See p. 110. 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OAHU

11 The Best Resort Spas • Abhasa Waikiki Spa in the Royal converted to individual spas, each with Hawaiian Hotel (& 808/922-8200; a glass-enclosed shower, private chang- www.abhasa.com): This contempo- ing area, infinity-edge deep soaking rary spa, spread out over 7,000 square Jacuzzi tub, and personal relaxation feet, concentrates on natural, organic area. No detail is overlooked, from the treatments in a soothing atmosphere, warm foot bath when you arrive to the where the smell of eucalyptus wafts refreshing tea served on your personal through the air. Experience every- enclosed garden lanai after your treat- thing from the latest aromatherapy, ment. See p. 111. to thalassotherapy (soaking in a • SpaHalekulani, Halekulani Hotel, sweet-smelling hot bath), to shiatsu Waikiki (& 808/923-2311; www. massages, but their specialty is a cold- halekulani.com): Focusing on the laser, anti-aging treatment that prom- healing traditions of the Pacific ises to give you a revitalized face in islands—Samoa, Tonga, and Tahiti, as just 30 minutes. See p. 91. well as Hawaii—this boutique oasis in • Ihilani Spa at the J. W. Marriott Waikiki’s most luxurious hotel defines Ihilani (& 800/626-4446; www. pampered comfort in a nurturing set- ihilani.com): An oasis by the sea, this ting designed to relax even the most 35,000-square-foot facility, filled tense. From the time you step into the with floor-to-ceiling windows over- elegantly appointed, intimate spa to looking lush tropical plants, is truly a the last whiff of fragrant maile, their spa in the literal sense of the word, signature scent, this is truly a “heav- meaning “health by water.” The enly” experience. Try something modern, multistoried spa combines unique, like the Polynesian Nonu, a Hawaiian products with traditional Samoan-inspired massage using stones therapies to produce some of the best and the nonu plant, or the Ton Ton water treatments in the state. You’ll Amma, a Japanese amma massage also find a fitness center, tennis with ton-ton pounders. See p. 89. courts, and aerobic and stretching • Turtle Bay Resort (& 800/203-3650; classes. See p. 117. www.turtlebayresort.com): This Zen- • Serenity Spa Hawaii (Outrigger like spa positioned on the ground floor Reef on the Beach & 808/926-2882; facing the ocean has six treatment www.serenityspahawaii.com): This rooms, a meditation waiting area, an 5,000-square-foot spa has a very outdoor workout space, and a com- extensive menu of treatments from plete fitness center and private elevator Hawaiian lomilomi to hot lava rock to rooms on the second floor that are to the very popular “Golden Touch” reserved for guests getting spa treat- massage, which helps you get a glow- ments. For the ultimate in massages, ing tan with applications of skin con- book the oceanside cabana and listen ditioners, tanning accelerators, and to the gentle lull of the waves as they SPF sunscreen. See p. 94. roll into the North Shore. See p. 115. • Spa Suites at the Kahala (& 808/ • Waikiki Plantation Spa, Outrigger 739-8938): The Kahala has taken the Waikiki on the Beach (& 808/926- concept of relaxation to a new level 2880; www.waikikiplantationspa. with former garden-view guest rooms com): Located in the penthouse of 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 17

THE BEST RESORT SPAS 17

Pampering in Paradise

Spa-goers in Hawaii look for a sense of place, steeped in the culture. They want to hear the sound of the ocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caress of the warm breeze. They want to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatments that can only be found in the islands. And now they can. With so much to offer, the spas of Hawaii, once nearly exclusively patron- ized by women, are now attracting more male clients. Special massages are offered for children and pregnant women, and some spas have programs to nurture and relax brides on their big day. Today’s Hawaiian spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. Forget plain, ordinary massages—now you can try Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aro- matherapy (with sweet-smelling oils), craniosacral (massaging the head), shiatsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncture points), Thai (another oil-less massage involving stretching), and hot stone (with heated, and sometimes cold, rocks). There are even side-by-side massages for cou- ples. The truly decadent might try a duo massage—not one, but two mas- sage therapists working on you at once. Massages are just the beginning. Body treatments, for the entire body or for just the face, involve a variety of herbal wraps, masks, or scrubs using a range of ingredients from seaweed to salt to mud, with or without accom- panying aromatherapy, lights, and music. After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an array of water treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and an assort- ment of colored crystals, oils, and scents. Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer a range of alternative health care procedures such as acupuncture and chiropractic, and other exotic treatments such as ayurvedic and siddha from India or reiki from Japan. Once your body has been pampered, spas also offer a range of fitness facilities (weight-training equipment, racquetball, tennis, golf) and classes (yoga, aerobics, step, spinning, stretch, tai chi, kickboxing, aquacize). Sev- eral even offer adventure fitness packages (from bicycling to snorkeling). For the nonadventurous, most spas have salons, dedicated to hair- and nail- care and makeup. If all this sounds a bit overwhelming, not to worry, all the spas in Hawaii have individual consultants who will help design an appropriate treatment program to fit your individual needs. Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. But to banish your ten- sion and stress? The expense may be worth it. Massages are generally $100 to $135 for 50 minutes and $145 to $180 for 80 minutes; body treatments are in the $100 to $180 range; and alternative health-care treatments can be as high as $150 to $220. 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 18

18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OAHU the Outrigger on the Beach hotel and using the spa’s own private label of overlooking the heart of Waikiki is lotions and oils. An express elevator this boutique spa with a “island-style” zips you up to the 17th floor, where a menu of treatments from massages to lanai allows you to relax in total facials to body wraps and polishes, all serenity. See p. 90.

12 The Best Restaurants • Alan Wong’s Restaurant (& 808/ signature dishes with him and con- 949-2526): One of Hawaii’s premiere tinues to prove his ingenuity with chefs, Alan Wong specializes in dazzling a la carte and prix-fixe absolutely the best Pacific Rim cuisine. menus. See p. 146. His restaurant is always packed, • Kaka’ako Kitchen (& 808/596- although the ambience is limited and 7488): If you’re in the market for a it’s located in a shopping mall in the quick-and-healthy breakfast, lunch, suburbs—but for serious foodies this is or dinner at budget prices, here’s the heaven. Masterpieces at this shrine of place. It’s not fancy; in fact, the trade- Hawaii regional cuisine: warm Califor- mark Styrofoam plates, warehouse nia rolls made with salmon roe, wasabi, ambience, and home-style cooking and Kona lobster instead of rice; luau are the hallmarks of this local favorite lumpia with butterfish and kalua pig; in the Ward Centre. The menu, and ginger-crusted fresh onaga. Opihi which changes every 3 to 4 months, shooters and day-boat scallops in sea- includes seared ahi sandwiches with son are a must, while nori-wrapped tobiko (flying-fish roe) aioli for lunch; tempura ahi is a perennial favorite. The and a signature charbroiled ahi steak, menu changes daily, but the flavors beef stew, five-spice shoyu chicken, never lose their sizzle. See p. 146. the very popular meatloaf, and other • Cassis Honolulu (& 808/545-8100; multi-ethnic entrees for dinner. See www.cassishonolulu.com): In 2007, p. 138. Hawaii’s top chef, George Mavro, • La Mer (& 808/923-2311): This opened this casual bistro that features is Hawaii’s premier splurge restau- many of the island-influenced dishes rant, the oceanfront bastion of haute that he no longer serves at his upscale cuisine, a romantic, elegant, and Chef Mavro Restaurant (see below) expensive place where people dress since he changes that menu every 3 up—not to be seen, but to match the months. The trendy eatery (packed at ambience and food. It’s an open- lunch) also has a very hip wine bar sided room with views of Diamond (featuring the wine pairings of the Head and the sound of trade winds day). See p. 134. rustling the nearby coconut fronds. • Chef Mavro Restaurant (& 808/ Award-winning chef Yves Garnier 944-4714): Honolulu is abuzz over melds classical French influences with the wine pairings and elegant cuisine island-fresh ingredients. See p. 122. of George Mavrothalassitis, the culi- • Ola at Turtle Bay Resort (& 808/ nary wizard from Provence who 293-0801; www.turtlebayresort.com): turned La Mer (at the Halekulani) Even if you’re staying in Waikiki, plan and Seasons (at the Four Seasons a day at the beach on the North Shore Resort Wailea) into temples of fine and eat here for dinner. You will not dining. He brought his award-winning regret it. First, the location—literally 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 19

THE BEST SHOPPING 19 on the sandy beach next door to the • The Pineapple Room (& 808/945- Turtle Bay Resort. Second, the restau- 6573): Yes, it’s in a department store, rant is an open-air beach pavilion. But but it’s Alan Wong, a culinary icon. the best part is . . . the food! The menu The food is terrific, particularly any- is filled with creative selections (the ahi thing with ahi (for example, the ahi and lobster poke served with a wonton meatloaf). The room features an spoon) and some of the best food you open kitchen with a lava-rock wall will eat in Hawaii. See p. 155. and abundant natural light, but • Olive Tree Cafe (& 808/737-0303): these are details in a room where This temple of Greek and Mediter- food is king. The menu changes reg- ranean delights is the quintessential ularly, but keep an eye out for the neighborhood magnet—casual, bus- ginger scallion shrimp scampi, nori- tling, and consistently great. Owner wrapped tempura salmon, and Savas Mojarrad has a following of superb gazpacho made of yellow and foodies, hipsters, artists, and all man- red Waimea tomatoes. See p. 135. ner of loyalists who appreciate his • Roy’s Restaurant (& 808/396- integrity and generosity. Standards 7697): Good food still reigns at this are always high, prices reasonable, the busy, noisy flagship Hawaii Kai din- dishes fresh and homemade. Bring ing room with the trademark open your own wine and sit down to fresh kitchen. Roy Yamaguchi’s deft way fish souvlakia, excellent marinated with local ingredients, nostalgic eth- mussels, and sheep’s cheese spanako- nic preparations, and fresh fish makes pita. Mojarrad even makes the yogurt his menu, which changes daily, a for his famous yogurt-mint-cucum- novel experience every time. Yam- ber sauce, the souvlakia’s ticket to aguchi’s special dinners with vintners immortality. Don’t miss the chicken are a Honolulu staple. See p. 152. saffron, a Tuesday special. See p. 152.

13 The Best Shopping Products of Hawaii now merit their own prints from the 1930s and ’40s repro- festivals and trade shows throughout the duced on silk, Avanti aloha shirts and year, and MADE IN HAWAII is a label to be sportswear elevate tropical garb from touted. Here are a few places to score high kitsch to high chic. Casual, com- some finds. fortable, easily cared for, and light as a • Academy Shop (in the Honolulu cloud, the silks look vintage but cost a Academy of Arts; & 808/523-8703): fraction of collectibles’ prices. The The recent expansion of the Hon- nostalgic treasures are available in olulu Academy of Arts made a good retail stores statewide, but the best thing even better. You’ll find a stun- selection is in Waikiki. See p. 235. ning selection of art books, stationery, • Bailey’s Antiques & Aloha Shirts jewelry, basketry, beadwork, ikats, (& 808/734-7628): Bailey’s has one saris, ethnic fabrics, fiber vessels, of the largest vintage aloha-shirt col- accessories, and contemporary gift lections in Honolulu, with prices items representing the art and craft ranging from inexpensive to sky-high. traditions of the world. See p. 244. Old Levi’s jeans, mandarin jackets, • Avanti Fashion (& 808/924-1668 vintage vases, household items, and 808/922-2828): In authentic shawls, purses, and an eye-popping 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 20

20 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OAHU assortment of bark-cloth fabrics (the and art, even hula implements and real thing, not repros) are among the ukuleles, plus healing Hawaiian lotions mementos in this monumental collec- and oils. See p. 245. tion. See p. 236. • Native Books & Beautiful Things • Contemporary Museum Gift Shop (& 808/596-8885): Hawaii is the (& 808/523-3447): This gets our content and context in this shop of vote as the most beautiful setting for books, crafts, and gift items made by a gift shop, and its contents are a island artists and crafters. Musical bonus: extraordinary art-related instruments, calabashes, jewelry, leis, books, avant-garde jewelry, cards and books, fabrics, clothing, home acces- stationery, home accessories, and gift sories, jams and jellies—they’re all items made by artists from Hawaii high quality and made in Hawaii—a and across the country. Only the best celebration of Hawaiiana. See p. 245. is sold here. See p. 244. • Silver Moon Emporium (& 808/ • Honolulu Chocolate Co. (& 808/ 637-7710): This is an island-wide 591-2997): Life’s greatest pleasures are phenomenon, filled with the terrific dispensed here with abandon: expen- finds of owner Lucie Talbot-Holu, sive gourmet chocolates made in Hon- who has a gift for discovering fashion olulu, Italian and Hawaiian biscotti, treasures. Exquisite clothing and boulder-size chocolate “turtles,” truf- handbags, reasonably priced footwear, fles, chocolate-covered coffee beans, hats, jewelry, scarves, and a full gamut and jumbo apricots in white and dark of other treasures pepper the attractive chocolate, to name a few. See p. 239. boutique. See p. 251. • Mana Hawaii (& 808/923-2220): • Zuke’s Magic & Jokes (& 808/ Authentically experience Hawaiian 847-7788): You don’t have to be culture in the heart of Waikiki, where Harry Potter to enter here, but you five successful Native Hawaiian part- may feel like him. Open only on Sat- ners have combined their talents into urday, amateur and professional one mega-culture shop. You will find magicians stream into this magic everything from Hawaiian books to store to get the latest “tricks” and Hawaiian-made gifts, clothing, jewelry, learn the art of magic. See p. 245.

14 The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails • Sunset Lanai (in the New Otani • House Without a Key (in the Hale- Kaimana Beach Hotel; & 808/923- kulani; & 808/923-2311): Oahu’s 1555): The hau tree shaded Robert quintessential sunset oasis claims sev- Louis Stevenson as he wrote poems to eral unbeatable elements: It’s outdoors Princess Kaiulani. Today it frames the on the ocean, with a view of Dia- ocean view from the Sunset Lanai, mond Head, and it offers great hula next to the Hau Tree Lanai restau- and steel guitar music—and one of rant. Sunset Lanai is the favorite the best mai tais on the island. You watering hole of Diamond Head– know it’s special when even jaded area beachgoers who love Sans Souci Honoluluans declare it their favorite Beach, the ocean view, the mai tais spot for send-offs, reunions, and gor- and sashimi platters, and the live geous sunsets. See p. 253. music during weekend sunset hours. • Mai Tai Bar (in the Royal Hawaiian See p. 105. Hotel; & 808/923-7311): Perched a 04_134825 ch01.qxp 10/11/07 11:13 AM Page 21

THE BEST OAHU WEBSITES 21 few feet from the sand, this open-air few feet from the sands of Waikiki? bar boasts sweeping views of the Come in from the beach or from South Shore and Waianae Mountains the street—it’s always a party at and one of the most pleasing views of Duke’s. Entertainment here is tops, Waikiki Beach. Surfers and paddlers and it reaches a crescendo at sunset. ride the waves while the light turns See p. 256. golden and crowns Diamond Head • Jameson’s by the Sea (& 808/637- with a halo. Sip a mighty mai tai 4336): The mai tais here are dubbed while Carmen and Keith Haugen ser- the best in Surf City, and the view, enade you. See p. 253. although not perfect, doesn’t hurt • Duke’s Canoe Club (in the Outrigger either. Across the street from the har- Waikiki Hotel; & 808/923-0711): bor, this open-air roadside oasis is a It’s crowded at sunset, but who can happy stop for North Shore wave resist listening to the top Hawaiian watchers and sunset-savvy sightseers. musicians in this upbeat atmosphere a See p. 154.

15 The Best Oahu Websites • Hawaii Visitors & Convention This fabulous site not only has easy Bureau (www.gohawaii.com): An lessons on learning the Hawaiian lan- excellent, all-around guide to activi- guage, but also a great cultural calen- ties, tours, lodging, and events, plus a dar, links to other Hawaiiana websites, huge section on weddings and honey- a section on the hula, and lyrics and moons. But keep in mind that only translations to Hawaiian songs. members of the HVCB are listed. • The Pukas in Hawaii: The Short • Planet Hawaii (www.planet-hawaii. List to Hawaii Web Sites (www. com): Click on “Island” for an hawaiiradiotv.com/puka.html): A island-by-island guide to activities, wonderful collection of links to all lodging, shopping, culture, the surf kinds of Hawaii websites, from radio report, weather, and more. Mostly, stations playing Hawaiian music to you’ll find short listings with links to the daily newspaper to where to find companies’ own websites. Click on the cheapest gas. “Hawaiian Eye” for live images from • Hawaii State Vacation Planner around the islands. (www.hshawaii.com): Helps you • Internet Hawaii Radio (www. plan your trip using the advertisers hotspots.hawaii.com): A great way supporting this private (not govern- to get into the mood, this eclectic site ment) site. features great Hawaiian music. You • State of Hawaii (www.hawaii.gov): can order CDs and also purchase a Features information regarding parks, respectable assortment of Hawaiian experiences, and activities from hiking historical and cultural books. and golf to theater, sports, and culture. • Visit Oahu (www.visit-oahu.com): • City and County of Honolulu An extensive guide to activities, dining, (www.co.honolulu.hi.us): Every- lodging, parks, shopping, and more, thing you may want to know from the from the Oahu chapter of the Hawaii county government including what to Visitors and Convention Bureau. see and do, camping permits, park • The Website information, historical and culture (http://hawaiianlanguage.com): information, beach safety and more.