The Best of Oahu

1 The Best of Oahu

Everyone ventures to Oahu seeking a different experience. Some talk about wanting to find the “real” Hawaii, some are looking for heart-pounding adventure, some yearn for the relaxing and healing powers of the islands, and others are drawn by Hawaii’s aloha spirit, in which kindness and friendliness prevail. This book is designed to help you have the vacation of your dreams. For those too excited to page through from beginning to end, this chapter highlights the very best of what Honolulu and Oahu have to offer.

1 THE BEST OAHU EXPERIENCES

To have the absolute best experiences on • Meet Local Folks: If you go to Hawaii Oahu, be prepared for a different culture, and see only people like the ones back language, cuisine, and way of doing things. home, you might as well stay home. Slow down—you’re on an island that oper- Extend yourself, leave the resorts and ates on its own schedule. To really experi- tourist quarters, go out and learn about ence Oahu, we recommend the following: Hawaii and its people. Just smile and • Get Out on the Water: You’ll take say “Howzit?” which means “How’s it home memories of an emerald island going?”—and you’ll usually make a new rising out of the cobalt sea with white friend. Oahu is remarkably cosmopoli- wispy clouds set against an azure sky, or tan; every ethnic group in the world the Waikiki shoreline colored by the seems to be here. It’s fascinating to dis- setting sun. There are many different cover the varieties of food, culture, lan- boats to choose from, ranging from tiny guage, and customs. kayaks to 100-foot sightseeing vessels, • Drive to the North Shore: Just an even state-of-the-art boats guaranteed hour’s drive from Honolulu, the North to prevent seasickness. See chapter 6 for Shore is another world: a pastoral, rural details on all kinds of cruises and water- setting with magnificent beaches and a sports. slower way of life. During the winter • Plunge Under the Water: Don mask, months, stop and watch the profession- fins, and snorkel and dive into the als surf the monster waves. See chapter 7. magical world beneath the surface, • Watch the Hula: This is Hawaii, so you where cloudsCOPYRIGHTED of colorful tropical fish flit have MATERIAL to experience the hula. A hula by, craggy old turtles lumber along, and performance is a popular way for visi- tiny marine creatures hover over exotic tors to get a taste of traditional Hawai- corals. Can’t swim? Take one of the ian culture. For a more genuine many submarines or semi-submersibles. Hawaiian hula experience, catch the If you come to Hawaii and ignore the hula halau performed Monday through underwater world, you’re missing half Friday at 1pm at the Bishop Museum. of what makes up this paradise. See See chapter 7. chapter 6. 2 • Experience a Turning Point in America’s Memorial, which straddles the eternal History: The United States could no tomb for the 1,177 sailors and Marines longer turn its back on World War II after trapped below deck when the battleship December 7, 1941, the day that Japanese sank in 9 minutes, is a moment you’ll warplanes bombed Pearl Harbor. Stand- never forget. See chapter 7. ing on the deck of the USS Arizona

2 THE BEST BEACHES

See chapter 6 for complete details on all consider it the place to go. Weekdays, these beaches and their facilities. you practically have it all to yourself. • Waikiki Beach: This famous stretch of • Kahana Bay Beach Park: With salt- sand is the spot that originally put and-pepper sand, a crescent-shaped Hawaii on the tourist map. No beach beach protected by ironwoods and anywhere is so widely known or so kamani trees and, as a backdrop, a lush universally sought as this narrow, junglelike valley interrupted only by 1 jagged cliffs, you’d swear this beach was 1 ⁄2-mile-long crescent of soft sand at the foot of a string of high-rise hotels. in Tahiti or Bora Bora. Kahana offers THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE Home to the world’s longest-running great swimming (even safe for chil- 1 beach party, Waikiki attracts nearly five dren), good fishing, and perfect condi- million visitors a year from every corner tions for kayaking. Combine that with of the planet. In high season, it’s packed picnic areas, camping, and hiking trails, towel-to-towel, but there’s no denying and you have one of the best beaches on the beauty of Waikiki. the island. • Lanikai Beach: Hidden and off the • Malaekahana Beach: If you’d like to beaten tourist path, this beach on the venture back to old Hawaii, before jet windward side has a mile of powder- planes brought millions of people to soft sand and water that’s safe for swim- Oahu and there were few footprints on THE BEST BEACHES BEST THE ming. It’s the perfect isolated spot for a the sand, then go north to the romantic morning of swimming and relaxation. wooded beach park at Malaekahana. With the prevailing trade winds, it’s This is a place to sit in quiet solitude or also excellent for sailing and windsurf- to beachcomb along the shore. There’s ing. Sun-worshipers should arrive in the good swimming most of the time, and morning, as the shadow of the Koolau good snorkeling when it’s calm, but no Mountains blocks the sun’s rays in the lifeguard. Surprisingly, very few visitors afternoon. come to Malaekahana—one of the best • Kailua Beach: Imagine a 30-acre pub- beaches on Oahu, it’s a true find. lic park with a broad, grassy area with • Sunset Beach: Surfers around the picnic tables, a public boat ramp, rest- world know this site, famous for its rooms, a pavilion, a volleyball court, spectacular winter surf—the waves can and food stands. Add a wide, sandy be huge, thundering peaks reaching 15 beach, great for diving, swimming, sail- to 20 feet. In the summer months, ing, snorkeling, and board- and wind- Sunset calms down and becomes a safe surfing, and you’ve got Kailua Beach, swimming beach. It’s a great place to which is tops on the windward side of people-watch year-round, as you’ll spot the island. On weekends, local families everybody from wannabe Baywatch babes to King Kong surfers. The Hawaiian Islands 3 N N N N

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Kailua H3 MOKULUA Aiea SEABIRD H1 Halawa Hts. WilsonWilson SANCTUARIES Ka TunnelTunnel la Pearl HHarborarbor n Lanikai M i oa a n n y. a 78 a Hw l e o o lik PaliPali Maunawili le a e 61 Waimanalo R ik TunnelsTunnels Hwy d L y. . U.S.U.S. . 63 w H Bay li Waimanalo NavalNaval BBasease a 72 P Tantalus HonoluluHonolulu HonoluluHonolulu EAST OAHU Int.Int. AirportAirport PunchbowlPunchbowl CraterCrater MMakapuuakapuu N H1 Makiki PPtt im it Hawaii Kai 72 z Hw Manoa Valley y. Honolulu Harbor SANDYSANDY BEACHBEACH PARKPARK Waikiki DiamondDiamond Hanauma Bay KAPIOLANI PARK KokoKoko HeadHead CCraterrater HeadHead 6 • Waimea Bay: Here is one of Oahu’s USA” (Why-a-mee-ah), it’s pronounced most dramatic beaches. During much Why-may-ah. of the winter—October to April—huge • Pokai Bay: If you dream of a pow- waves come pounding in, creating dered-sugar sand beach, a place you can strong rip currents. Even expert surfers swim, snorkel, and probably be the only think twice when confronted with one on the beach (on weekdays), try 30-foot waves that crash on the shore this off-the-beaten-path shoreline. Sur- with the force of a runaway locomotive. rounded by a reef, the waters inside are It’s hard to believe that during the sum- calm enough for children and offer mer this same bay is glassy and calm—a excellent snorkeling. Come with aloha great place for swimming, snorkeling, spirit and a respect for local customs— and diving. Oh, and by the way, despite the residents here don’t see too many what the Beach Boys croon in “Surfin’ visitors.

3 THE BEST SNORKELING & DIVING SITES

A different Hawaii greets anyone with a a great place to shoot photos—schools of mask, snorkel, and fins. Under the sea, lemon butterflyfish and ta’ape are so THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE you’ll find schools of brilliant tropical fish, comfortable with divers and photogra- slow-moving green sea turtles, darting game phers that they practically pose. Eagle 1 fish, slack-jawed moray eels, and prehis- rays, green sea turtles, manta rays, and toric-looking coral. It’s a kaleidoscope of white-tipped sharks occasionally cruise color and wonder. For more on exploring by, and eels peek out from the wreck. Oahu’s underwater world, see chapter 6. • Kahuna Canyon: One of the most • Hanauma Bay: It can get very crowded, magical summer dive spots is Kahuna but—for clear, warm, calm waters, an Canyon. Walls rise from the ocean floor abundance of fish that are so friendly to create the illusion of an underwater they’ll swim right up to your face mask, Grand Canyon. Inside the canyon, a beautiful setting, and easy access— crab, octopi, slipper, and spiny lobsters there’s no place like Hanauma Bay. Just abound (be aware that taking them in wade in waist deep and look down to the summer is illegal), and giant trev- see more than 50 species of reef and ally, parrotfish, and unicorn tangs con- inshore fish common to Hawaiian gregate. Outside, you’re likely to see the waters. Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow occasional shark in the distance. inner bay—it’s really like swimming in • Shark’s Cove: Braver snorkelers might

THE BEST SNORKELING & DIVING SITES DIVING & SNORKELING BEST THE an outdoor aquarium. Serious, experi- want to head to Shark’s Cove, on the enced divers shoot “the slot,” a passage North Shore just off Kamehameha through the reef, to gain access to Highway, between Haleiwa and Witch’s Brew, a turbulent cove, and Pupukea. Sounds risky, we know, but other outer-reef experiences. we’ve never seen or heard of any sharks • Wreck of the Mahi: Oahu is a wonder- in this cove; and in summer, this big, ful place to scuba dive, especially for lava-edged pool is one of Oahu’s best those interested in wreck diving. One of snorkeling spots. Waves splash over the the more famous wrecks in Hawaii is the natural lava grotto and cascade like Mahi, a 185-foot former minesweeper, waterfalls into the pool full of tropical which is easily accessible just south of fish. Deep-sea caves to explore are to Waianae. Abundant marine life makes it the right of the cove. • Kapiolani Park Beach: In the center of because it has easy access to the sandy 7 this beach park, a section known as shoreline and the waters are usually Queen’s Beach or Queen’s Surf Beach, calm. Bonus: It’s right next door to the between the Natatorium and the Waikiki Aquarium, in case you see any flora or Aquarium, is great for snorkeling. I fauna and would like more information. prefer the reef in front of the Aquarium

4 THE BEST GOLF COURSES

Oahu is golf country, with 5 municipal, 9 • Makaha Resort Golf Club (& 808/ military, and 20 private courses to choose 695-7111 or 808/695-5239): Readers from. The courses range from 9-hole of Honolulu magazine named this chal- THE BEST OF OAHU municipals, perfect for beginners, to lenging course Oahu’s best. An hour’s championship courses that stump even the drive from the crowds of Honolulu, this pros. See chapter 6 for complete details. William Bell–designed course is in • Ko Olina Golf Club (& 808/676- Makaha Valley on the island’s leeward 5309): Golf Digest named this beautiful side. Incredibly beautiful, sheer, 1,500- 6,867-yard, par-72 course one of foot volcanic walls tower over the “America’s Top 75 Resort Courses” course, and swaying palm trees and bright bougainvillea surround it; an when it opened in 1992. The rolling 1 fairways and elevated tees and a few too occasional peacock even struts across many water features (always where you the fairways. “I was distracted by the THE BEST WALKS don’t want them) will definitely improve beauty” is a great excuse for your score at day’s end. your game or humble your attitude. & • Turtle Bay Resort (& 808/293-8574): • Olomana Golf Links ( 808/259- Of the two courses to choose from here, 7926): This gorgeous course in we recommend the 18-hole Arnold Waimanalo is on the other side of the Palmer Course (formerly the Links at island from Waikiki. The low-handicap Kuilima), designed by Arnold Palmer and golfer may not find this course difficult, Ed Seay. They never meant for golfers to but the striking views of the craggy get off too easy—this is a challenging Koolau mountain ridges are worth the course. The front 9 holes, with rolling greens fees alone. The par-72, 6,326- terrain, only a few trees, and lots of wind, yard course is popular with local resi- play like a course on the British Isles. The dents and visitors. The course starts off back 9 holes have narrower, tree-lined a bit hilly on the front 9, but flattens fairways and water. In addition to ocean out by the back 9. The back 9 have views, the course circles Punahoolapa their own special surprises, including Marsh, a protected wetland for endan- tricky water hazards. gered Hawaiian waterfowl.

5 THE BEST WALKS

The weather on Oahu is usually sunny, • Diamond Head Crater: Most everyone with trade winds providing cooling can make this moderate walk to the breezes—perfect for a walk. Below are our summit of Hawaii’s most famous land- favorites, from city to trail. mark. Kids love the top of the 760-foot 8 volcanic cone, where they have follows Waihi Stream and meanders 360-degree views of Oahu, up the lee- through the forest reserve past guava ward coast from Waikiki. The 1.4-mile and mountain apple trees and wild round-trip takes about an hour. See ginger. The forest is moist and humid chapter 6. and inhabited by nothing more danger- • Makiki–Manoa Cliffs Trails: A ous than giant bloodthirsty mosquitoes. 15-minute drive from downtown, this See chapter 6. walk passes through a rainforest and • Chinatown: Honolulu’s Chinatown along a ridgetop with nonstop views. appeals to the senses: The pungent The somewhat strenuous loop trail is aroma of Vietnamese pho mingles with one you’ll never forget, but it’s more the sweet scent of burning incense; than 6 miles long, gains 1,260 feet in vendors and shoppers speak noisily in elevation, and takes about 3 hours to the open market; retired men tell stories finish. The views of the city and the over games of mah-jongg; and the con- shoreline are spectacular. See chapter 6. stant buzz of traffic all contribute to the • Manoa Falls Trail: This easy .75-mile cacophony of sounds. No trip to Hono- (one-way) hike is terrific for families; it lulu is complete without a visit to this takes less than an hour to reach idyllic exotic, historic district. See chapter 7. Manoa Falls. The often-muddy trail THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE

1 6 THE BEST VIEWS

• Puu Ualakaa State Park: Watching the You’ll feel like you’re standing on the sun set into the Pacific from a 1,048- edge of the world. See chapter 7. foot hill named after a sweet potato is • Diamond Head Crater: The view from actually much more romantic that it atop this world-famous 720-foot-tall sounds. Puu Ualakaa translates into sleeping volcano is not to be missed.

THE BEST VIEWS BEST THE “rolling sweet potato hill,” which refers The 360-degree view from Koko Crater to how the early Hawaiians harvested to Barbers Point and the Waianae the crop. Don’t miss the sweeping pan- mountains is worth the 560-foot hike. oramic views, which extend from Dia- See chapter 6. mond Head across Waikiki and • Lanikai Beach: This is one of the best downtown Honolulu, over the airport places on Oahu to greet the sunrise. and Pearl City, all the way to the Watch the sky slowly move from pitch Waianae range. Catch great photo ops black to burnt orange as the sun begins during the day, romantic sunset views to rise over the two tiny offshore islands in the evening, and starry skies at night. of Mokulua. This is a five-senses experi- See chapter 7. ence: birds singing the sun up; a gentle • Nuuanu Pali Lookout: Oahu’s best- breeze on your face; the taste of salt in looking side, the Windward Coast, can the air; the smell of the ocean, the sand, be seen in its full glory from the and the fragrant flowers nearby; and the Nuuanu Pali Lookout, a gusty perch set kaleidoscope of colors as another day amid jagged cliffs piercing the puffy dawns. See chapter 6. white clouds that go racing by. One • Puu O Mahuka Heiau: Once the larg- thousand feet below, the island is a est sacrificial temple on Oahu, Puu O carpet of green that runs to an azure Mahuka Heiau is now a state historic Pacific dotted by tiny offshore islets. site. Located on a 300-foot bluff, the heiau encompasses some 5 acres. Hawai- walk on the stones—it’s very disrespect- 9 ians still come here to pray—you may ful. The view from this bluff is awe- see offerings such as ti leaves, flowers, inspiring, from Waimea Bay all the way and fruit. Don’t disturb the offerings or to Kaena Point. See chapter 7.

7 THE BEST ADVENTURES FOR THRILLSEEKERS

See chapter 6 for details on these and • Leap into the Ocean: Even though all many other adventures. the signs say dangerous, stay off the rocks, a favorite pastime on Oahu is • Soar in Silence in a Glider: Soaring THE BEST OF OAHU through silence on gossamerlike wings, climbing the stone precipice at Waimea with a panoramic view of Oahu, is an Beach Park and leaping into the ocean. unforgettable experience. Glider rides This is for experienced swimmers in are available at Dillingham Air Field, in summer only, as the thundering winter Mokuleia, on Oahu’s North Shore. The waves drive everyone from the sea, glider is towed behind a plane; at the except the professional surfers and the right altitude, the tow is dropped, and very, very stupid. you (and the glider pilot) are left to soar • Venture into the Deep: It’s Hawaii— in the thermals. you have to see what’s under the waves. 1 Try scuba diving; you can enjoy a

• Surf Waikiki in a Hawaiian Outrigger THE BEST PLACES TO DISCOVER THE REAL OAHU Canoe: It’s summertime and there’s a “scuba experience” with absolutely no South Pacific swell rolling into Waikiki previous diving experience. Here’s your from Tahiti; here’s your chance to try opportunity to glide weightlessly surfing—in a Hawaiian outrigger through the ocean while you admire the canoe. Numerous beach concessions on multicolored marine creatures. Waikiki Beach offer the chance to pad- • Eyeball-to-eyeball with a Shark: You’re dle an outrigger canoe and surf back 4 miles out from land, which is just a into Waikiki. Not only do you get a speck on the horizon, with hundreds of great view of the beach from offshore, feet of open ocean. Suddenly from out but the thrill of actually catching a wave of the blue depths a shape emerges: the and gliding back into shore. sleek, pale shadow of a 6-foot-long gray • Float on the Thermals on a Tandem reef shark, followed quickly by a couple Hang Glider: See things from a bird’s- of 10-foot-long Galápagos sharks. eye view (literally) as you and an Within a few heartbeats, you’re sur- instructor float high above Oahu on a rounded by sharks on all sides. Do you tandem hang glider. panic? No, you are on the North Shore Shark Adventure.

8 THE BEST PLACES TO DISCOVER THE REAL OAHU

Oahu isn’t just any other beach destina- worth getting to know. If you want to tion. It has a wonderfully rich, ancient meet the “local” folks who live on Oahu, history and culture, and people who are check out the following: 10 • Watch the Ancient Hawaiian Sport of Before you leave, be sure to check out Outrigger Canoe Paddling: From Feb- the lei sellers on Maunakea Street (near ruary to September, on weekday eve- N. Hotel St.), where Hawaii’s finest leis nings and weekend days, hundreds of go for as little as $3.50. See chapter 7 canoe paddlers gather at Ala Wai Canal for neighborhood walking tours and and practice the Hawaiian sport of details on where to buy leis. canoe paddling. Find a comfortable • Observe the Fish Auction: There is spot at Ala Wai Park, next to the canal, nothing else quite like the Honolulu and watch this ancient sport come to Fish Auction at the United Fishing life. See the Calendar of Events in chap- Agency, Pier 38, 1131 N. Nimitz Hwy., ter 2, “Planning Your Trip to Oahu.” Honolulu (& 808/536-2148). Fisher- • Attend a Hawaiian-Language Church men bring their fresh catch in at 5:30am Service: Kawaiahao Church (& 808/ (sharp) Monday through Saturday, and 522-1333) is the Westminster Abbey of the small group of buyers bids on all Hawaii; the vestibule is lined with por- manner of fish. The auction lasts until traits of the Hawaiian monarchy, many all the fish are sold. It is well worth get- of whom were coronated in this very ting up early to enjoy this unique cul- building. The coral church is a perfect tural experience. See the Fish Markets setting to experience an all-Hawaiian section of chapter 8. THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE service, held every Sunday at 9am, com- • Get a Bargain at the Aloha Flea Mar- 1 plete with Hawaiian song. See p. 159. ket: For 50¢ admission, it’s an all-day • Buy a Lei from Vendors in China- show at the Aloha Stadium parking lot, town: A host of cultural sights and where more than 1,000 vendors sell experiences are to be had in Honolulu’s everything from junk to jewels. Go Chinatown. Wander through this sev- early for the best deals. Open Wednes- eral-square-block area, with its jumble day, Saturday, and Sunday from 6am to of exotic shops offering herbs, Chinese 3pm. See the box “Favorite Oahu Expe- groceries, and acupuncture services. riences,” in chapter 6.

9 THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS

• Halekulani (& 800/367-2343 or • Embassy Suites Hotel–Waikiki Beach 808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com): Walk (& 800/EMBASSY [362-2779] Halekulani translates into “House or 808/921-2345; www.waikikibeach. Befitting Heaven,” an apt description embassysuites.com): This ultra-luxuri- THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS & HOTELS LUXURY BEST THE for this luxury resort spread over 5 acres ous one- and two-bedroom-suite hotel of prime Waikiki beachfront property. chain (known for its complimentary, When money is no object, this is the all-you-can-eat, cooked-to-order break- place to stay. The atmosphere of ele- fast and evening manager’s cocktail gance envelops you as soon as you step reception) has one of the most central into the lobby. Even if you don’t stay locations in Waikiki and is loaded with here, drop by at sunset to sip on a mai amenities. When you pencil it out, it’s tai at the gracious House Without a actually a good “deal” for families. See Key and listen to Sonny Kamehele sing p. 87. Hawaiian songs as a graceful hula • Royal Hawaiian (& 800/325-3535 or dancer sways to the music. See p. 87. 808/923-7311; www.sheraton.com): Hidden in the jungle of concrete build- courses, and Waikiki Beach. You could 11 ings that make up Waikiki is an oasis of spend your entire vacation here and verdant gardens and a shockingly pink never leave the property. See p. 83. building. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel, • Kahala Hotel & Resort (& 800/367- affectionately called the “pink palace,” 2525 or 808/739-8888; www.kahala is known around the world as a symbol resort.com): Since 1964, when Conrad of luxury. Since the first day it opened Hilton first opened this hotel as a place in 1927, the Royal has been the place to for rest and relaxation, far from the stay for celebrities, including Clark crowds of Waikiki, the Kahala has Gable, Shirley Temple, President Frank- always been rated one of Hawaii’s pre- lin Roosevelt, the Beatles, Kevin Cost- mier hotels. A venerable Who’s Who of ner, and others. Its location is one of the celebrities have stayed at the hotel, best on Waikiki Beach. See p. 89. including every president since Richard THE BEST OF OAHU • Moana Surfrider Hotel, A Westin Nixon, a host of rock stars from the Resort (& 800/325-3535 or 808/922- Rolling Stones to the Beach Boys, and a 3111; www.moana-surfrider.com): Step range of actors from John Wayne to back in time to Old Hawaii at the Bette Midler. The Kahala is a com- grand Moana Surfrider Hotel, built in pletely up-to-date resort, with exotic 1901. Entry is through the original Asian touches, but it retains the grace colonial porte-cochere, past the highly and elegance of a softer, gentler time in polished wooden front porch, with the islands. See p. 108. 1 white wooden rocking chairs, and into • J. W. Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa at

the perfectly restored lobby, with its Ko Olina Resort (& 800/626-4446 THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS detailed millwork and intricate plaster or 808/679-0079; www.ihilani.com): detailing on the ceiling. Time seems to Located in the quiet of Oahu’s west slow down here, tropical flowers coast, 25 minutes west of Honolulu arranged in huge sprays are everywhere, International Airport—and worlds and everyone in the lobby seems to be away from the tourist scene of smiling. At check-in, guests are greeted Waikiki—the Ihilani (which means with a lei and a glass of fruit juice. This “heavenly splendor”) is the first hotel in is a hotel not only with class, but also the 640-acre Ko Olina Resort. It fea- with historic charm. See p. 88. tures a luxury spa and fitness center, • Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach plus championship tennis and golf. The Resort & Spa (& 800/HILTONS plush rooms are spacious, with huge [445-8667] or 808/949-4321; www. lanais and lagoon or ocean views from hiltonhawaiianvillage.com): Waikiki’s some 85% of the units. With luxury biggest resort, this place is so big it even like this, who misses Waikiki? See has its own post office. Some 3,000 p. 113. rooms are spread over 20 acres with • Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/203- tropical gardens, thundering waterfalls, 3650 or 808/293-6000; www.turtle exotic wildlife, award-winning restau- bayresort.com): After a $35-million rants, nightly entertainment, two renovation, this once sterling hotel is brand-new state-of-the-art spas, 100 back. The resort is spectacular: an different shops, children’s programs, hour’s drive from Waikiki, but eons fabulous ocean activities, a secluded away in its country feeling. Sitting on lagoon, three swimming pools, Hawai- 808 acres, Turtle Bay is loaded with ian cultural activities, two minigolf activities and 5 miles of shoreline with 12 secluded white-sand coves. All the renovated (hardwood floors, poster rooms have great views, but the separate beds with feather comforters) and have beach cottages are positioned right on their own check-in and private con- the ocean (the views alone are worth the cierge. See p. 111. price). The 42 bungalows have been

10 THE BEST BARGAIN ACCOMMODATIONS

It is possible to stay on Oahu without hav- small, family-owned hotel is a great ing to take out a second mortgage. Here bargain for frugal travelers. What you are some options. get here is old-fashioned aloha in cozy • The Breakers (& 800/426-0494 or accommodations along the lines of 808/923-3181; www.breakers-hawaii. Motel 6—basic and clean. And you com): Full of old-fashioned Hawaiian can’t do better for the price—this has to aloha—and it’s only steps from the be the bargain of Waikiki. For $55 sands of Waikiki—this two-story hotel (about the same price a couple would has a friendly staff and a loyal follow- pay to stay in a private room at the ing. Each of the tastefully decorated, hostel in Waikiki), you get a room in THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE large rooms comes with a lanai and a the older Mauka Wing, with a double bed or two twins, plus a kitchenette 1 kitchenette, with prices starting at $130. See p. 95. with refrigerator and stove. See p. 105. • Hawaiiana Hotel (& 800/367-5122 • Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (& 866/638- or 808/923-3811; www.hawaiiana 8229 or 808/638-8829; www.keiki hotelatwaikiki.com): “The spirit of Old beach.com): Snuggled on a large lot Hawaii”—The hotel’s slogan says it all. with its own 200-foot stretch of white- This intimate low-rise hotel has guest sand beach between two legendary rooms that feature kitchenettes, two North Shore surf spots (Waimea Bay beds (a double and a single, or a queen and Banzai Pipeline), this collection of and a sofa bed), a view of the gardens, studio, one-, and two-bedroom cottages offers affordable family bungalows with

THE BEST RESORT SPAS RESORT BEST THE two swimming pools, and a location a block from the beach. Rooms start at complete kitchens—if you can live $125. See p. 95. without being right on the ocean, the • Royal Grove Hotel (& 808/923- garden units start at $135. See p. 112. 7691; www.royalgrovehotel.com): This

11 THE BEST RESORT SPAS • Abhasa Waikiki Spa in the Royal (soaking in a sweet-smelling hot bath), Hawaiian Hotel (& 808/922-8200; to shiatsu massages, but their specialty www.abhasa.com): This contemporary is a cold-laser, antiaging treatment that spa, spread out over 7,000 square feet, promises to give you a revitalized face in concentrates on natural, organic treat- just 30 minutes. See p. 91. ments in a soothing atmosphere, where • Ihilani Spa at the J. W. Marriott the smell of eucalyptus wafts through Ihilani (& 800/626-4446; www. the air. Experience everything from the ihilani.com): An oasis by the sea, this latest aromatherapy, to thalassotherapy 35,000-square-foot facility, filled with 13 Pampering in Paradise

Spa-goers in Hawaii look for a sense of place, steeped in the culture. They want to hear the sound of the ocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caress of the warm breeze. They want to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatments that can only be found in the islands. And now they can. With so much to offer, the spas of Hawaii, once nearly exclusively patronized by women, are now attracting more male clients. Special massages are offered for children and pregnant women, and some spas have programs to nurture and relax brides on their big day.

Today’s Hawaiian spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. Forget plain, ordi- THE BEST OF OAHU nary massages—now you can try Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aromatherapy (with sweet-smelling oils), craniosacral (massaging the head), shiatsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncture points), Thai (another oil-less massage involving stretching), and hot stone (with heated, and sometimes cold, rocks). There are even side-by-side massages for couples. The truly decadent might try a duo massage—not one, but two massage therapists working on you at once. Massages are just the beginning. Body treatments, for the entire body or for just the face, involve a variety of herbal wraps, masks, or scrubs using a range of ingredients from seaweed to salt to mud, with or without accompanying 1 aromatherapy, lights, and music. THE BEST RESORT SPAS After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an array of water treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and an assortment of colored crystals, oils, and scents. Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer a range of alternative health-care procedures, such as acupuncture and chiropractic, and other exotic treatments such as ayurvedic and siddha from India or reiki from Japan. Once your body has been pampered, spas also offer a range of fitness facilities (weight-training equipment, racquetball, tennis, golf) and classes (yoga, aero- bics, step, spinning, stretch, tai chi, kickboxing, aquacize). Several even offer adventure fitness packages (from bicycling to snorkeling). For the nonadventur- ous, most spas have salons, dedicated to hair- and nail-care and makeup. If all this sounds a bit overwhelming, not to worry, all the spas in Hawaii have individual consultants who will help design an appropriate treatment program to fit your individual needs. Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. But to banish your ten- sion and stress? The expense may be worth it. Massages are generally $100 to $135 for 50 minutes and $145 to $180 for 80 minutes; body treatments are in the $100 to $180 range; and alternative health-care treatments can be as high as $150 to $220.

floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking spa combines Hawaiian products with lush tropical plants, is truly a spa in the traditional therapies to produce some literal sense of the word, meaning “health of the best water treatments in the by water.” The modern, multistoried state. You’ll also find a fitness center, 14 tennis courts, and aerobic and stretch- the last whiff of fragrant maile, their sig- ing classes. See p. 113. nature scent, this is truly a “heavenly” • Serenity Spa Hawaii (Outrigger Reef experience. Try something unique, like on the Beach & 808/926-2882; www. the Polynesian Nonu, a Samoan-inspired serenityspahawaii.com): This 5,000- massage using stones and the nonu square-foot spa has an extensive menu of plant, or the Ton Ton Amma, a Japanese treatments from Hawaiian lomilomi to amma massage with ton-ton pounders. hot lava rock to the very popular “Golden See p. 87. Touch” massage, which helps you get a • Turtle Bay Resort (& 800/203-3650; glowing tan with applications of skin www.turtlebayresort.com): This Zen- conditioners, tanning accelerators, and like spa, positioned on the ground floor SPF sunscreen. See p. 92. and facing the ocean, has six treatment • Spa Suites at the Kahala (& 808/739- rooms, a meditation waiting area, an 8938): The Kahala has taken the con- outdoor workout space, and a complete cept of relaxation to a new level with fitness center and private elevator to former garden-view guest rooms con- rooms on the second floor that are verted to individual spas, each with a reserved for guests getting spa treat- glass-enclosed shower, private changing ments. For the ultimate in massages, area, infinity-edge deep soaking Jacuzzi book the oceanside cabana and listen to THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE tub, and personal relaxation area. No the gentle lull of the waves as they roll 1 detail is overlooked, from the warm into the North Shore. See p. 111. foot bath when you arrive to the • Waikiki Plantation Spa, Outrigger refreshing tea served on your personal Waikiki on the Beach (& 808/926- enclosed garden lanai after your treat- 2880; www.waikikiplantationspa.com): ment. See p. 108. Located in the penthouse of the Outrig- • SpaHalekulani, Halekulani Hotel, ger on the Beach hotel and overlooking Waikiki (& 808/923-2311; www. the heart of Waikiki is this boutique spa halekulani.com): Focusing on the healing with an “island-style” menu of treat- traditions of the Pacific islands—Samoa, ments from massages to facials to body Tonga, and Tahiti, as well as Hawaii—this wraps and polishes, all using the spa’s boutique oasis in Waikiki’s most luxurious own private label of lotions and oils. An THE BEST RESTAURANTS BEST THE hotel defines pampered comfort in a nur- express elevator zips you up to the 17th turing setting designed to relax even the floor, where a lanai allows you to relax most tense. From the time you step into in total serenity. See p. 89. the elegantly appointed, intimate spa to

12 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• Alan Wong’s Restaurant (& 808/949- this shrine of Hawaii regional cuisine 2526): One of Hawaii’s premiere chefs, include: warm California rolls made Alan Wong specializes in absolutely the with salmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lob- best Pacific Rim cuisine. His restaurant ster instead of rice; luau lumpia with is always packed, although the ambience butterfish and kalua pig; and ginger- is limited and it’s located in a shopping crusted fresh onaga. Opihi shooters and mall in the suburbs—but for serious day-boat scallops in season are a must, foodies this is heaven. Masterpieces at while nori-wrapped tempura ahi is a perennial favorite. The menu changes at the beach on the North Shore and eat 15 daily, but the flavors never lose their siz- here for dinner. You will not regret it. zle. See p. 142. First, the location—literally on the • Chef Mavro Restaurant (& 808/944- sandy beach next door to the Turtle Bay 4714): Honolulu is abuzz over the wine Resort. Second, the restaurant is an pairings and elegant cuisine of George open-air beach pavilion. But the best Mavrothalassitis, the culinary wizard part is . . . the food! The menu is filled from Provence who turned La Mer (at with creative selections (the ahi and the Halekulani) and Seasons (at the lobster poke served with a wonton Four Seasons Resort Wailea) into tem- spoon) and some of the best food you ples of fine dining. He brought his will eat in Hawaii. See p. 150. award-winning signature dishes with • Olive Tree Cafe (& 808/737-0303): him and continues to prove his ingenu- This temple of Greek and Mediterra- THE BEST OF OAHU ity with dazzling a la carte and prix-fixe nean delights is the quintessential menus. See p. 141. neighborhood magnet—casual, bus- • Kaka’ako Kitchen (& 808/596- tling, and consistently great. Owner 7488): If you’re in the market for a Savas Mojarrad has a following of food- quick and healthy breakfast, lunch, or ies, hipsters, artists, and all manner of dinner at budget prices, here’s the place. loyalists who appreciate his integrity It’s not fancy; in fact, the trademark and generosity. Standards are always Styrofoam plates, warehouse ambience, high, prices reasonable, the dishes fresh 1 and home-style cooking are the hall- and homemade. Bring your own wine

marks of this local favorite in the Ward and sit down to fresh fish souvlakia, THE BEST RESTAURANTS Centre. The menu, which changes excellent marinated mussels, and sheep’s every 3 to 4 months, includes seared ahi cheese spanakopita. Mojarrad even sandwiches with tobiko (flying-fish roe) makes the yogurt for his famous yogurt- aioli for lunch; and a signature char- mint-cucumber sauce, the souvlakia’s broiled ahi steak, beef stew, five-spice ticket to immortality. Don’t miss the shoyu chicken, the very popular meat- chicken saffron, a Tuesday special. See loaf, and other multi-ethnic entrees for p.147. dinner. See p. 134. • The Pineapple Room (& 808/945- • La Mer (& 808/923-2311): This is 6573): Yes, it’s in a department store, Hawaii’s premier splurge restaurant, the but it’s Alan Wong, a culinary icon. The oceanfront bastion of haute cuisine, a food is terrific, particularly anything romantic, elegant, and expensive place with ahi (for example, the ahi meat- where people dress up—not to be seen, loaf). The room features an open but to match the ambience and food. kitchen with a lava-rock wall and abun- It’s an open-sided room with views of dant natural light, but these are details Diamond Head and the sound of trade in a room where food is king. The winds rustling the nearby coconut menu changes regularly, but keep an fronds. Award-winning chef Yves eye out for the ginger scallion shrimp Garnier melds classical French influ- scampi, nori-wrapped tempura salmon, ences with island-fresh ingredients. See and superb gazpacho made of yellow p. 120. and red Waimea tomatoes. See p. 132. • Ola at Turtle Bay Resort (& 808/293- • Roy’s Restaurant (& 808/396-7697): 0801; www.turtlebayresort.com): Even Good food still reigns at this busy, if you’re staying in Waikiki, plan a day noisy flagship Hawaii Kai dining room 16 with the trademark open kitchen. Roy changes daily, a novel experience every Yamaguchi’s deft way with local ingre- time. Yamaguchi’s special dinners with dients, nostalgic ethnic preparations, vintners are a Honolulu staple. See and fresh fish makes his menu, which p. 147.

13 THE BEST SHOPPING

Products of Hawaii now merit their own • Contemporary Museum Gift Shop festivals and trade shows throughout the (& 808/523-3447): This gets our vote year, and made in hawaii is a label to be as the most beautiful setting for a gift touted. Here are a few places to score some shop, and its contents are a bonus: finds. extraordinary art-related books, avant- • Academy Shop (in the Honolulu Acad- garde jewelry, cards and stationery, emy of Arts; & 808/523-8703): The home accessories, and gift items made recent expansion of the Honolulu by artists from Hawaii and across the Academy of Arts made a good thing country. Only the best is sold here. See even better. You’ll find a stunning selec- p. 241. tion of art books, stationery, jewelry, • Honolulu Chocolate Co. (& 808/ THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE basketry, beadwork, ikats, saris, ethnic 591-2997): Life’s greatest pleasures are 1 fabrics, fiber vessels, accessories, and dispensed here with abandon: expensive contemporary gift items representing gourmet chocolates made in Honolulu, the art and craft traditions of the world. Italian and Hawaiian biscotti, boulder- See p. 241. size chocolate “turtles,” truffles, choco- • Avanti Fashion (& 808/924-1668 late-covered coffee beans, and jumbo and 808/922-2828): In authentic prints apricots in white and dark chocolate, to from the 1930s and ’40s reproduced on name a few. See p. 236. silk, Avanti aloha shirts and sportswear • Mana Hawaii (& 808/923-2220): elevate tropical garb from high kitsch to Authentically experience Hawaiian culture in the heart of Waikiki, where five THE BEST SHOPPING BEST THE high chic. Casual, comfortable, easily cared for, and light as a cloud, the silks successful Native Hawaiian partners look vintage but cost a fraction of col- have combined their talents into one lectibles’ prices. The nostalgic treasures mega-culture shop. You will find every- are available in retail stores statewide, thing from Hawaiian books to Hawai- but the best selection is in Waikiki. See ian-made gifts, clothing, jewelry, and p. 233. art, even hula implements and ukuleles, • Bailey’s Antiques & Aloha Shirts plus healing Hawaiian lotions and oils. (& 808/734-7628): Bailey’s has one of See p. 242. the largest vintage aloha-shirt collec- • Native Books & Beautiful Things tions in Honolulu, with prices ranging (& 808/596-8885): Hawaii is the from inexpensive to sky-high. Old content and context in this shop of Levi’s jeans, mandarin jackets, vintage books, crafts, and gift items made by vases, household items, shawls, purses, island artists and crafters. Musical and an eye-popping assortment of bark- instruments, calabashes, jewelry, leis, cloth fabrics (the real thing, not repros) books, fabrics, clothing, home accesso- are among the mementos in this monu- ries, jams and jellies—they’re all high mental collection. See p. 233. quality and made in Hawaii—a celebra- tion of Hawaiiana. See p. 242. • Silver Moon Emporium (& 808/637- • Zuke’s Magic & Jokes (& 808/847- 17 7710): This is an island-wide phenom- 7788): You don’t have to be Harry Pot- enon, filled with the terrific finds of ter to enter here, but you may feel like owner Lucie Talbot-Holu, who has a him. Amateur and professional magi- gift for discovering fashion treasures. cians stream into this magic store, open Exquisite clothing and handbags, rea- only on Saturday, to get the latest sonably priced footwear, hats, jewelry, “tricks” and learn the art of magic. See scarves, and a full gamut of other trea- p. 242. sures pepper the attractive boutique. See p. 248.

14 THE BEST SPOTS FOR SUNSET COCKTAILS THE BEST OF OAHU

• Sunset Lanai (in the New Otani Kai- boasts sweeping views of the South mana Beach Hotel; & 808/923-1555): Shore and Waianae Mountains and one The hau tree shaded Robert Louis Ste- of the most pleasing views of Waikiki venson as he wrote poems to Princess Beach. Surfers and paddlers ride the Kaiulani. Today it frames the ocean waves while the light turns golden and view from the Sunset Lanai, next to the crowns Diamond Head with a halo. Sip Hau Tree Lanai restaurant. Sunset a mighty mai tai while Carmen and 1 Lanai is the favorite watering hole of Keith Haugen serenade you. See p. 249.

Diamond Head–area beachgoers who • Duke’s Canoe Club (in the Outrigger THE BEST OAHU WEBSITES love Sans Souci Beach, the ocean view, Waikiki Hotel; & 808/923-0711): It’s the mai tais and sashimi platters, and crowded at sunset, but who can resist the live music during weekend sunset listening to the top Hawaiian musicians hours. See p. 104. in this upbeat atmosphere a few feet • House Without a Key (in the Haleku- from the sands of Waikiki? Come in lani; & 808/923-2311): Oahu’s quint- from the beach or from the street—it’s essential sunset oasis claims several always a party at Duke’s. Entertainment unbeatable elements: It’s outdoors on the here is tops, and it reaches a crescendo ocean, with a view of Diamond Head, it at sunset. See p. 253. offers great hula and steel guitar music, • Jameson’s by the Sea (& 808/637- and it serves one of the best mai tais on 4336): The mai tais here are dubbed the island. You know it’s special when the best in Surf City, and the view, even jaded Honoluluans declare it their although not perfect, doesn’t hurt favorite spot for send-offs, reunions, and either. Across the street from the har- gorgeous sunsets. See p. 249. bor, this open-air roadside oasis is a • Mai Tai Bar (in the Royal Hawaiian happy stop for North Shore wave Hotel; & 808/923-7311): Perched a watchers and sunset-savvy sightseers. few feet from the sand, this open-air bar See p. 149.

15 THE BEST OAHU WEBSITES

• Hawaii Visitors & Convention section on weddings and honeymoons. Bureau (www.gohawaii.com): An But keep in mind that only members of excellent, all-around guide to activities, the HVCB are listed. tours, lodging, and events, plus a huge 18 • Planet Hawaii (www.planet-hawaii. • Hawaii Radio & Television Guide com): Click on “Island” for an island- (diallists.hawaiiradiotv.com/hawaiitv. by-island guide to activities, lodging, html): A wonderful collection of links shopping, culture, the surf report, to all kinds of Hawaii websites, from weather, and more. Mostly, you’ll find radio stations playing Hawaiian music short listings with links to companies’ to the daily newspaper to where to find own websites. Click on “Hawaiian Eye” the cheapest gas. for live images from around the islands. • State of Hawaii (www.hawaii.gov): • Visit Oahu (www.visit-oahu.com): An Features information regarding parks, extensive guide to activities, dining, experiences, and activities from hiking lodging, parks, shopping, and more, and golf to theater, sports, and culture. from the Oahu chapter of the Hawaii • City and County of Honolulu (www. Visitors and Convention Bureau. co.honolulu.hi.us): Everything you may • The Hawaiian Language Website want to know from the county govern- (www.geocities.com/~olelo/hltableof ment, including what to see and do, contents.html): This fabulous site has how to procure camping permits, park easy lessons on learning the Hawaiian information, historical and culture language. information, beach safety and more. THE BEST OF OAHU OF BEST THE

1 THE BEST OAHU WEBSITES OAHU BEST THE