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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LEIGH GrIffITHS; JOÃO CANZIANI; MORGAN OMMER; MARTIN MOrrELL ON THE COVER Sunset from the rooftop of The Funny Lion facing Baquit Island in Palawan. Photographed by June features Al Linsangan. 66 Delta Blues Sailing deep into southern Vietnam’s Mekong waterways, Rachna Sachasinh finds the region in a state of change. Photographed by Morgan Ommer. 76 Coast to Coast Island-hopping across El Nido and Coron, Eloise Basuki discovers this pocket of the Philippines is an ecological wonder that also feels like home. Photographed by Leigh Griffiths. 76 98 86 86 66 Above and Beyond Enjoy up to 50%* savings on your food bill L The French Alpine EL R villages of Chamonix R at TWG Tea with your American Express® and Megève are TIN MO TIN reinventing Platinum Credit Card. R MA themselves as ; R E summer playgrounds. 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TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / JUNE 2018 5 In Every Issue T+L Digital 8 Contributors 10 The Conversation 12 Editor’s Note 14 Deals 62 Wish You Were Here 106 contents 19 Reasons to Travel Now 28 Literary City Three of Kolkata’s 44 Wait, This is Athens? A short See southern Thailand’s natural top scribes give us the lowdown drive from the city center, the wonders; surf Bali’s waves after on the West Bengal capital’s beaches, hotels and restaurants dark; get the Midas touch in a book-loving identity. of the revived Athenian Riviera Macau spa; and more reasons to 32 Manila on the Fly Scale sky-high offer a revelatory new way to explore the region. ropes above the jungle and soar experience the Greek capital. 24 The Rise of Redfern from an inner-city trapeze—the The streets of a once-gritty Philippine capital has thrills for Special suburb in Sydney are now home all ages. One for the Ages In this year’s to some of the city’s hottest small 51 38 Hot Pursuit On a pilgrimage to family special, we look at bars, top-ranking restaurants and Iceland’s famed geothermal vacations tailored to different creative endeavors. springs, discovering a hidden pool kinds of broods. Sorted by age 26 Made in Hong Kong Despite inside a remote cave means going and number of children, we’ve UI importing most of its food, Hong outside your comfort zone. organized dream destinations by M Kong has a growing appetite for 40 Fun Comes to Frankfurt The family dynamics, from baby’s first HIVA SA local artisanal production. We S city that was once just Germany’s holiday to multi-generational F find some homemade goods for buttoned-up business capital now adventures with the whole crew. SY O your shopping list. TE blossoms with great culture and R cuisine. Y LOW; COU LE R BE M ANTOS; KIANTOS; OEL S J ON AAR AL, GUANGZHOU; AL, GUANGZHOU; IENT R IN O R A AND M F Y O TES R T: COU F LE M 19 28 24 51 O FR 6 JUNE 2018 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GUANGZHOU; AARON JOEL SANTOS; KIMBERLEY LOW; COURTESY OF SHIVA SAMUI t +l d i g i t a l +LOOKOUT Visiting a new resort on Una-Una, a volcanic isle in Central Sulawesi; thiS Month ON TRAveLANDLEISUreASIA.coM Bali’s best hotels for UncoVERING THE SAIGon’S ThrIVING AN EPIC TREkkING foodies; a stunning new SEcrEts OF OKInawa LIVE MUSIC SCENE ADVEntURE IN INDIA resort on the southern This lush Japanese Vietnamese musicians are On a homestay hop with a tour coast of Sri Lanka; the archipelago boasts a culture making waves with bold sonic company that helps tiny latest travel deals and all of its own, not to mention statements that fly in the face villages thrive, a writer finds sugar-sand beaches and of censorship and give voice to mystery and magic in the much more. verdant, subtropical forests. a generation. subcontinent’s mighty peaks. travelandleisureasia.com OLETTI F TO IS CR S A M HO T AO; AO; B U V DOWNLOAD US FOLLOW US KEEP UP WITH US HANH K ; T+L TABLET EDITIONS twIttER.com/ Sign up for our newsletter Available on iOS, Android, trAVLEISUREasIA for monthly highlights and offers from SUKAWA Win 8 and Zinio Desktop facEbook.COM/ AT trAVELLEISUREasIA T+L Southeast Asia. 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Centara Grand is Grand Centara you. andindeliblememoriesfor experiences the natural choice for a picture-perfect holiday. apicture-perfect for choice the natural [email protected] [email protected] 1 02 1011234 ext 4/27/2561 BE 17:28 contributors | J UNE 2018 1 2 Merritt Leigh Gurley Griffiths WRITER PHO TOGRAPHER “One for the Ages” “Coast to Coast” Page 51 Page 76 — — With two toddlers, the We sent the Australian Chiang Mai–based writer was photographer to the 1 prepped to write our Family sustainable seas of northern Special. “In Asia everybody Palawan. “The Funny Lion is wildly forgiving of kids. resort in Coron organized an Show up at dinner and the amazing island-hopping tour. waitresses will dedicate the Swimming in the clearest next two hours to babysitting. waters surrounded by Far from being angry, they colorful fish and coral is hard are delighted you brought to beat, but crashing a tribal two agents of chaos to destroy wedding on a small island their restaurant.” Must-get was something I’ll remember travel accessory? The 1st until I die.” And what of his Class Kid travel pillow, which daredevilry diving in with inflates on the floor in front blacktips at Apulit Island? of a child’s plane seat so they “Don’t get me wrong, I draw can lie flat, but not on top of the line at baby sharks.