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GRAND CANYON GUIDE: Hike, Raft and Climb

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GRAND CANYON GUIDE: Hike, Raft and Climb GRAND CANYON GUIDE: Hike, Raft and Climb JUNE 2007 NOT SO MERRILY A September monsoon downpour drenches kayakers and rafters grand canyon paddling and rowing on a between-rapids stretch of the Colorado River in Marble Departments Canyon, the watercourse entrance to the Grand Canyon. See story, page 44. GARY LADD guide n To order a print of this photograph, see information below. 2 DEAR EDITOR 18 adventures in the planet’s grandest canyon FRONT COVER Captured at dawn from a North Rim vantage point at Cape Royal, 3 ALL WHO WANDER Wotans Throne (background), with its 7,633-foot summit, is visible from most The gift of the Canyon. developed viewpoints on the Grand Canyon’s rims. See story, page 28. GARY LADD n To order a print of this photograph, see information below. june 2007 8 Falling for Falls A remote trail plunges down to mystical waterfalls. 4 VIEWFINDER BACK COVER With nary a Grand Canyon wall in sight, this ethereal wisp TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARRY LINDAHL Arizona's best campsite is revealed. of a waterfall at Deer Spring evokes visions of wood sprites and nymphs rather Guide: Adventures on the North Rim 5 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP than Colorado River runners and hikers. See story, page 8. LARRY LINDAHL Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures. n To order a print of this photograph, see information below. 16 Condor Love 50 ALONG THE WAY A vulture threesome and an uncle biologist stave off extinction. A boatman’s tale turns on sounds BY FRANK JENNINGS PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS PARISH in the dark in a hidden slot. Guide: Condor-watching 52 HIKE OF THE MONTH Trekking The Battleship. 20 Geologist’s Paradise Stately formations of the Grand Canyon preserve the tale of the Earth. 54 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE contents BY IVO LUCCHIT TA PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY LADD Meander to Marble Viewpoint Guide: Four Science Tours features quiet splendor. 2 8 PORTFOLIO Point of View The Canyon’s overlooks always offer a mind-wrenching surprise. BY CHARLES BOWDEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACK DYKINGA 42 Trash, Treasure & Tragedy Museum houses 800,000 artifacts that tell the Canyon's rich history. BY ADELHEID FISCHER 44 Into the Maw Hermit Rapids teaches the meaning of life — and the value of fear. TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY LADD Guide: Five Whitewater Rafting Outfitters 4 8 Mule Sense Mule skinner gulps, swears and gets used to living on the edge. BY LEO W. BANKS PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN COOGAN FRUITFUL FUN Kids of all ages dash for sweet treats during the “Fruit Scramble” event at the 4th Annual Natoni Horse Race onlineon the arizonahighways.com Navajo Indian Reservation. See story, page 16. TOM BEAN FRONTThe Grand COVER Canyon Navajo is sohoop grand dancer that Tyrese one Jensen, could float7, competes in outer in thespace 16th and Annual still World be in Championshipsight of it. When Hoop you Dance look Contest at it heldthat at way, the Heardnowhere Museum on Earthin downtown seems tooPhoenix. far away See story, from page Arizona’s 32. JEFF naturalKIDA BACKwonder. COVER If you’ve A hiker never amounts been, to ora T eveniny Tim if onyou the just window visited last "sill"week, of Los now Gigantes is the Buttes time toArch get near to the LukachukaiGrand Canyon. Mountains See where onto the go Navajoand what Indian to Reservation. do while you’re See story, there page with 24. our TOM Roaming TILL n To order a print of this photograph, see information on opposite page. Rim-to-Rim and Grand Canyon Adventure guides. Visit arizonahighways.com and click on our June “Trip Planner.” Photographic Prints Available HUMOR Our writer shares the secret of his seven-year, n Prints of some photographs are "14-day-diet" success. available for purchase, as designated in captions. To order, WEEKEND GETAWAY Go shoe shopping on the Colorado River. call toll-free (866) 962-1191 or visit EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan your Arizona getaway with our www.magazineprints.com. events calendar. Gray Skies, Brilliant Flowers Getting up early on a particularly gray, windy and very possibly doomed effort to save the survivors with minifloods wet English morning, I switched my computer on and JUNE 2007 VOL. 83, NO. 6 and efforts to trap trout along certain stretches of river. all who wander all saw that the March 2007 digital edition of Arizona Publisher WIN HOLDEN The Gift As we assembled this special Grand Canyon issue, I recalled Highways had arrived. I was stunned by the wildflower Editor PETER ALESHIRE that trip and the chub and realized that the fish’s predicament section as the photographs are so beautiful. They almost Senior Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN of the Canyon captures a lot about human beings’ complicated relationship Managing Editor SALLY BENFORD brought tears to my eyes. It was a good reminder that in Book Division Editor BOB ALBANO An endangered fish and a to this great canyon. The editors set out to crowd the wonders this world filled with so much turmoil, there is still a Books Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL of the Canyon all into one issue, as you can see from the map Special Projects Editor JOBETH JAMISON bemused writer seek deep lessons great deal of beauty around us. I am so thankful that the Editorial Administrator NIKKI KIMBEL below that pinpoints the locations of the stories. magazine has such dedicated and talented photographers Editorial Assistant PAULY HELLER We offer a search for the source of mystical North Rim dear editor who can produce such wonderful images that truly Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER STANDING HIP DEEP ATOP SLIPPERY ROCKS washed by the waterfalls, a geologist’s view of superb scenery, the heartening reflect this. It has certainly cheered me up, and somehow Photography Editor JEFF KIDA milky blue Little Colorado River, I watched the prehistoric return of the condors and the revealing adventures of a river the weather outside doesn’t seem to matter that much any more! Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY monster wriggle in the net. guide, a photographer, a mule skinner and others who love this Deputy Art Director SONDA ANDERSSON PAPPAN Barbara Holloway, Buxted, Uckfield, East Sussex, United Kingdom Art Assistant DIANA BENZEL-RICE Glenn Dorster, field biologist with the Arizona Game and stunning landscape. Alas, we could have used your gray, wet and windy weather this year. But we had only a little winter rain and Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY Fish Department, cheerfully plucked the misshapen humpback But holding the issue in my hands, I realize it’s all hubris. so few spring flowers — except on the pages of the magazine. —Peter Aleshire, Editor Production Director MICHAEL BIANCHI chub from the net and plopped him down onto his portable Who can fit the Canyon onto a few sheets of paper? Who Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON fish scale, determined to help an ancient survivor hang on a can “save” a species older than his own by manipulating the Webmaster VICKY SNOW little longer. ecology of a river? Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO Reflections on Lake Powell hike, “Rock On,” as your February 2007 The chub and other unique desert river fish thrived in Instead, I again dimly sense the lesson of the Canyon. Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN I just received the March ’07 issue and “Hike of the Month.” the Colorado for at least 4 million years, despite the river’s Its oldest rocks date back to when life was but a smudge of wanted to send you a picture of where I Part of the Agua Fria National Finance Director BOB ALLEN cataclysmic floods and late-summer trickles. green slime. All of our great striving on the planet equals just by Peter Aleshire, editor put my mom’s ashes near Halls Crossing. Monument, Badger Springs is an Information Technology CINDY BORMANIS Then soaring dams turned the great river into a chain of a thin layer of rock teetering atop a sequence a mile deep. The I read your column, “The Eternal important archaeological site as well Inquiries or orders Toll-free: (800) 543-5432 reservoirs that now sustain Los Angeles and Phoenix. Instead ugly fish in my hands and I can only savor our little bit of time, Choice — Fish or Take Pictures.” Lake as a critical riparian area for a myriad Phoenix area or outside the U.S. (602) 712-2000 of carrying tens of millions of tons of mud a year through the but the Canyon continues. Or visit arizonahighways.com Powell is bittersweet for me as it’s the last of species, including pronghorn and Canyon and generating 100,000-cubic-feet-per-second (cfs) So perhaps we need not worry if we cannot fit the whole arizonahighways.com @ place my mom was on this Earth before migratory birds. The close proximity For Corporate or Trade Sales Dolores Field (602) 712-2045 floods, the river now runs a reliable 5,000 to 25,000 cfs year- Canyon onto these pages. It is ambitious enough just to offer her plane went down. She adored Lake of the monument to population centers Letters to the Editor [email protected] round and gets its sediment mostly from a few tributaries like this glimpse, a quick wriggle through a river that flows finally 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009 editor Powell and spent many trips there. After (metro Phoenix and Flagstaff) makes it an the Little Colorado and the Paria rivers. to the sea. I put her ashes in the stream, a huge rock ideal area to enjoy for many. Governor The changes have wiped out most of the Canyon’s native JANET NAPOLITANO fell and I knew then that it was the right Unfortunately, the monument’s Director, Department of Transportation fish species, including the 6-foot-long predatory Colorado place for her to be, eternally.
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