The Jewish heritage in Catalonia Ι 3 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι INDEX
Index
THE CATALAN CALLS 5
GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA 17
BARCELONA'S CITY MUSEUM 27
PORTBOU AND WALTER BENJAMIN 33
THE CATALAN PYRENEES 37 Ι 5 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN CALLS
THE PYRENEES
GIRONA BARCELONA BESALÚ TORTOSA CASTELLÓ D'EMPÚRES I The Catalan Calls
GIRONA BESALÚ CASTELLÓ D'EMPÚRIES BARCELONA TORTOSA Ι 7 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN CALLS
Girona
The Call, or Jewish quarter, of Girona is situat- Jewish religion: synagogues to pray, gather and ed in the very centre of the medieval town. The study in; a slaughterhouse to provide kosher first record of Jewish presence in the city dates meat; ritual baths (mikveh), etc. The Call, or Jewish back to 890, even though it is quite possible From the 12th to the 15th century, the main that they had settled in the area before then. quarter, of Girona part of the Jewish society of Girona was com- The “callis judaicus” is mentioned for the first posed of craftsmen, though there were also a time in a document dating from 1160, and it is situated in the few well-to-do families who held the positions had been inhabited from the 12th century to of political and economic power within the al- the end of the 14th century. The main artery very centre of the jama. In spite of an enforced absence of more was the current Força Street, which crosses the than five hundred years, the memory of the medieval town. quarter from North to South. The Call had its Jewish presence in Girona is still alive in the moment of splendour in the 13th and 14th cen- Call. Currently, the Patronat Call de Girona is in tury, during which time the Jewish population charge of the preservation, promotion and dif- was increasing and becoming an organized fusion of this heritage, which is a fundamental community, with all the necessary buildings part of our history. to comply with the precepts and traditions of
PLACES OF INTEREST ACTIVITIES FURTHER INFORMATION ·· Bonastruc ça Porta Centre, housing the Mu- ·· Museum: permanent collection and tempo- ·· Museum of Jewish History and Nahmanides seum of Jewish History and the Nahmanides rary exhibitions Institute of Jewish Studies Institute of Jewish Studies ·· Guided tours C. Força, 8 – 17004 GIRONA ·· Força Street, Sant Llorenç Street, Cúndaro ·· E. E. Schalit Judaic Library Tel. +34 972 216 761 Street, Cathedral, Arab Baths, Gironella Tower ·· Training seminars and programme of lec- www.girona.cat/call and former Sant Domènec Convent (University) tures at the Institute [email protected] ·· Activities and workshops for families and children ·· Musical evenings in the Call ·· European Day of Jewish Culture ·· Girona Temps de Flors Ι 8 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN CALLS
Besalú
The oldest record that we have of the Jewish · From 1391 to 1436: The beginning of the community in Besalú dates back to 1229, al- decline of the Jewish community of Besalú. though the existence of a Jewish settlement In 1415 the closure of the Jewish quarter The history of the in the 9th century is considered to be proved. was ordered and by 1436 no more Jews re- From the 13th century on there can be made mained in Besalú. Jewish community of three chronological divisions of the history of The history of the Jewish community of Besalú the Jewish community in Besalú: Besalú is marked by is marked by the existence of many renowned · From 1300 to 1342: Besalú belonged to the doctors, such as Abraham des Castlar (personal the existence of many community of Girona doctor to Peter IV of Aragon, called “the Cere- monious”) and Bendit des Logar, both men- renowned doctors. · From 1342 to 1391: The Golden Age of the tioned in the book Eben Boan, by Kalonymos Jewish community of Besalú. Independence ben Kalonymos of Arles (1323) as two of the ten from the collective in Girona. During these leading physicians of the period. The discovery years, considerable economic activity took of the Mikveh in 1964, and of the remains of the place; relations with important Catalan Jew- synagogue bear testimony of the importance ish communities were maintained. of the Jewish heritage in Besalú.
PLACES OF INTEREST ACTIVITIES FURTHER INFORMATION ·· Mikveh (purifying Jewish baths) ·· Besalú, Jewish town ·· Besalú Tourist Office ·· Remains of the Synagogue ·· Evening theatrical tours (summer) Plaza de la Libertad,1 ·· Visitor Centre of the Jewish quarter ·· European Day of Jewish Culture 17850 Besalú ·· Cultural Centre Curia Real (former home of ·· Medieval History Course Tel. +34 972 591 240 [email protected] the Astruc family) ·· Medieval Besalú ·· Guided tours around the Jewish Quarter (Mikveh/Synagogue/Documentary on the rebuilding of the Synagogue) Ι 11 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN CALLS
Castelló d’Empúries
The primitive Jewish quarter started to develop The community had its own cemetery, situated at the beginning of the 13th century in the Puig near Rec del Molí. The nine Hebrew gravestones de l’Eramala area, around the first synagogue. which are kept at the Museu d’Història Cúria- The community had its In 1238 the Count of Empúries granted a priv- Presó come from this necropolis. ilege to the Jewish community, and a new pe- own cemetery, situated The first baptisms of Jews are documented at riod of prosperity began for them, which was the end of the 14th century, but the largest-scale crucial for their expansion and growth towards near Rec del Molí. and most numerous conversions took place in the area of Puig Mercadal, then the center of 1417, when almost 200 Jews were baptized. commerce and handicrafts of the village, as well as the place of residence of the Counts. Despite all that, in 1442 the Jewish community tried to reorganize itself, and recovered the old A new synagogue was built there in 1284, synagogue of Puig de l’Eramala, since the new which was expanded and restored in 1321. The one had been sold and turned into a guest building, turned into a private home, still exists house in 1420. today.
PLACES OF INTEREST ACTIVITIES FURTHER INFORMATION ·· Museu d’Història Medieval Cúria-Presó (Mu- ·· European Day of Jewish Culture ·· Tourist Office of Castelló d’Empúries. seum of Medieval History Court-Prision) ·· Festival Terra de Trobadors (Medieval festival) Tel. +34 972 156 233 ·· Basílica de Santa Maria. Museum of the ·· Ruta de l’Art (art exhibition) [email protected] Parish ·· Guided tours in the old Jewish quarter www.castelloempuriabrava.com ·· Medieval Walls. Gallarda Gate ·· Local Archive of Castelló d’Empúries ·· Urban framework of the old Jewish quarter. [email protected] ·· Ecomuseu Farinera (museum) ·· Aiguamolls de l’Empordà (Natural Park Swamps of the Empordà) Ι 12 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN CALLS
Barcelona
There is documentary evidence of the pres- ulation. However, the attack on the communi- ence of Jews in Barcelona prior to the existence ty in August 1391 greatly reduced the Jewish of a Jewish quarter in the city, although it is population in the city to a point from which The earliest record uncertain whether a Jewish community had it never recovered. Its final expulsion was or- been formed at that time. The earliest record dered by royal decree in 1492. All that has been of a Jewish district in of a Jewish district in Barcelona is from the 11th preserved of this mediaeval district is the lay- century and makes mention of a street with out of the streets, which have been signposted Barcelona is from the the words “solebat ire ad callem judaicum”. so that visitors can explore them in quiet con- th Call means ‘narrow street’ or ‘alley’ and came templation. Some of the buildings have been 11 century. to refer to the whole network of streets where restored, such as the one in which the Call In- Jews lived. Meanwhile, the Jewish community terpretation Centre is now housed. Here, infor- was referred to as the Aljama. At its peak, the mation is provided on the history of the district Jewish population reached 3,500, which at the during the period when it was inhabited by the time represented 10% of the city’s entire pop- Jewish community.
PLACES OF INTEREST ACTIVITIES FURTHER INFORMATION ·· Call Interpretation Centre (Centre d’Inter- ·· Activities at the Call Interpretation Centre ·· Call Interpretation Centre pretació del Call) ·· Permanent Exhibition on Mediaeval Barcelona. Plaza Manel Ribé s/n ·· The Domus Romana (Roman house) and the MUHBA 08002 Barcelona. silos of the Call ·· Barcelona Jewish Film Festival Tel. +34 933 042 680 ·· Plaça Sant Lu (square containing Jewish ·· European Day of Jewish Culture [email protected] gravestones with inscriptions) ·· Guided tours of the Call (Old Jewish Quarter) ·· City History Museum of Barcelona Ι 15 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN CALLS
Tortosa
Tortosa is the capital of the county of Baix Ebre. Jewish community, which is how the so-called It is a strongly walled city with clear traces of a call vell (old Jewish quarter) came to be created. wealthy past, both during the Roman period This is the earliest record of the existence of a The castle of La Suda and in mediaeval times, when the city was un- quarter exclusively occupied by Jews in Torto- der Arab rule. The castle of La Suda is a dominant sa. However, there is documentary evidence of is a dominant feature feature of the city and offers a wonderful pan- their presence dating back to the 6th century in oramic view. Meanwhile, the old quarter con- the form of the famous trilingual tombstone, of the city and offers a tains a series of remains from different periods which is on display at the permanent exhibition and cultures. The most noteworthy landmarks of the cathedral. A new Jewish quarter was built wonderful panoramic include the cathedral of Santa Maria, the Episco- at the turn of the 13th century. Both quarters still view. pal Palace and the streets of the Jewish quarter. preserve the labyrinthine layout of their streets After conquering Muslim Turtuxa, Ramon Beren- and some place names. guer IV donated the former Arab shipyards to the
PLACES OF INTEREST ACTIVITIES FURTHER INFORMATION ·· The Célio tower ·· European Day of Jewish Culture ·· Municipal Institute of Cultural and Tourism ·· Portal dels Jueus [The Jews’ Gate] ·· Guided tours of the Call (old Jewish quarter) Activities ·· Castle of La Suda ·· Exhibition dancing by the Jewish giant Rambla Felip Pedrell 3 ·· Museum of Tortosa figures: Caixixa and Bonjuà 43500 Tortosa Tel.: 977510144 [email protected] Ι 17 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA II Girona, Patronat Call de Girona Ι 18 Ι 19 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA
A DIFFERENT MUSEUM, WITH A STORY TO TELL IN THE JEWISH QUARTER The Museum of Jewish History explains the In the heart of the Jewish Quarter of Girona, history of the Jewish communities which were courtyards have retained the breath of Jewish part of our country during more than six centu- life of centuries gone by. Its nooks and crannies ries. In spite of many years of forced absence, are brimming with familiar smells, pleasing si- due to the Expulsion in 1492, Girona has held lence and inner life. Places shared with the Law on to the memory of those who, in their wis- and the tradition, with ancestors, and with the dom, gave the city the name of “Mother City of memory; bright green gardens, full of the smell Israel”. This Museum gathers their heritage, and of wet earth, and of the playful tinkling of wa- displays a legacy which is an indispensable ter. Spaces of the Jewish Quarter that were part of the history and the memory of the city. built under the shelter of ancestral rites and eternal traditions, areas for a life led within an intimate and safe world; serene little spots, de- tached from the bustle and noise of the streets of the city.
· GROUND FLOOR Audioguide · 1st FLOOR
1 COURYARD
2
3
SHOP
GATEWAY FORÇA STREET Ι 20 Ι 21 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA
CALLS: THE JEWISH QUARTERS IN CATALONIA THE DIASPORA The Jewish quarters of Catalan cities were In the year 70 of the Christian era, the Roman called “Calls”. They contained synagogues, army, commanded by General Titus stifled a bath-houses, bakeries, slaughterhouses and nationalist revolution which had started in the other places which were necessary for Jew- province of Judea, in the Middle Eastern Med- ish life. For some time life went on with a fair iterranean. The repression was brutal and the amount of harmony and tranquillity. In the capital, Jerusalem, was destroyed. Few years 15th century however, attacks and anti-Jewish later, a new attempt of revolution was again attitudes turned the Calls into marginalized ar- stifled by the Romans. This led to the expulsion eas and places of compulsory reclusion for the of the Jewish population living in the area, who Jewish population. were dispersed over other Roman provinces, including Tarraconense, in Hispania. This phe- nomenon is known as Diaspora.
· 1st FLOOR · 1st FLOOR Ι 22 Ι 23 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι GIRONA, PATRONAT CALL DE GIRONA
THE CULTURAL LEGACY MOSES BEN NAHMAN - THE MASTER FROM GIRONA The Catalan Jews were renowned philoso- The highest religious and legal authority of phers, poets, writers, astronomers, astrologers, his time on the Iberian Peninsula was born in cartographers and physicians. An important Girona around 1194. This distinguished phi- part of medieval knowledge comes from dis- losopher, talmudist, cabbalist, poet and phy- tinguished personalities of Catalan Judaism. In sician is also known as Ramban, Nahmanides Girona, Jewish wisdom had its exponent in the or Bonastruc ça Porta. Towards the end of his prestigious school of the Kabbalah, which gave life he went to Israel, from where he wrote the city universal fame. letters expressing his longing for Girona. He died in Akko around 1270. His bronze seal has been conserved; it bears a Hebrew inscription: “mosse barbi nahman gerondi nu’ah nefesh haz- aq” (Moses, son of Rabbi Nahman, from Girona, be brave).
· 2nd FLOOR · 2nd FLOOR
COURYARD COURYARD GARDEN GARDEN THE JEWISH HERITAGETHE JEWISH INCATALONIA ΙGIRONA,PATRONAT CALLDEGIRONA 1 2. Reception area 1. Entrance GROUND FLOOR 6. The Cemetery 6. The community the nucleusof synagogue, 5. The Diaspora 4. The (Calls)Quarters 3. JewishCatalonia: theJewish Aljamas 2. The theJewishquarter 1. In st Ι 24 FLOOR -MUSEUM 6 SHOP 6 5 FORÇA STREET FORÇA 6 2 4 GARDEN 2 1 3 1
OLD STREET OF THE JEWISH QUARTER 3 13. Temporaryexhibitions 12. Exile 11. The Converts andExpulsion violence 10. Difficult relationships and 9. Science andknowledge the master from Girona Nahman- Ben 8. Moses 7. The cultural legacy 2. Library 1. Conference Room 2 rd nd FLOOR -INSTITUTE FLOOR -MUSEUM 13 12 2 COURTYARD 8 7 9 11 2 WC 10 1 GARDEN Ι 27 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι BARCELONA'S CITY MUSEUM III Barcelona's city Museum Ι 28 Ι 29 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι BARCELONA'S CITY MUSEUM THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι BARCELONA'S CITY MUSEUM
MEDIEVAL BARCELONA’S JEWISH COMMUNITY INTERNAL ORGANISATION LIFE IN THE CALL Before the Jewish quarter came to exist, it is The Usatges (Usages) of Barcelona (1053-1071) The aljama’s internal organisation was estab- ucational institutions. They also unfolded their In the year 1079 the Jewish population num- weavers, book binders, goldsmiths, coral mer- on record that there were Jews in Barcelona, include some provisions relating to Jews. The lished by the Jews themselves, whose self-gov- own culture there and created masterpieces bered about seventy families, whereas by the chants, shoemakers, money-lenders, inn-keep- although it is not known whether they already first documentary record of a Jewish quarter in ernment was confirmed by royal privilege. that would come to form part of universal Jew- 14th century it comprised some four thousand ers and merchants. Some of the Jews here also formed a community. Barcelona dates from the 11th century, mention- ish literature. The ordinances enacted by the people. The growth in the number of families devoted themselves to the cultivation of their The community was ruled by an oligarchic ing a street that solebat ire ad callem judaicum. aljama were often confirmed by the monarchs. and the arrival of Jews who had been expelled land while others stood out as physicians, who Towards the year 850, a tradition recalls the ex- regime, formed by the community’s rich and In the religious sphere, the administrators of the from France made it necessary to expand the were highly esteemed by the Christians. Many istence of a letter from the gaon Amram of Sura, The word call means “little street” or “alley”. learned members; the leaders were called sec- community had to maintain the public worship, Jewish quarter, so the Call Menor or Minor Call held political offices within their community, in Babylonia, to the Jews of Barcelona. In 877 This name came to extend itself to the whole retarii or neemanim. A council of ten members, provide kosher food and organise burials. A was created. like that of secretary, or administrative offic- the Jew called Judacot acted as the emissary set of streets occupied by the Jews, that is to based on the model of Barcelona’s municipal court with expert judges who acted according es, like those of porter or undertaker, while yet between Charles the Bald and the Barcelonans, say, the Jewish quarter, and the community of government, supervised the governance of the to Jewish law and with the monarch’s consent, The synagogue formed the centre of the com- others were butchers, slaughtering animals for delivering ten pounds of silver to Bishop Frodoí Jews was called the aljama. The municipal au- secretarii and watched over the executive body. had the right to pass sentence between Jews munity; the scola was the place where the most food, or practised other trades. Likewise, some for the repair of his church. Jews were among thorities had no jurisdiction whatsoever over Each community had the authority to enact in civil and criminal suits. The Jews, called “the important feasts were held - circumcision, Bar people held religious offices, such as rabbis and the dead in Al-Mansur’s assault on Barcelona the Call, which was under the direct authority ordinances (taqqanot), which were regulations king’s purse and treasure”, were required to pay Mitzvah, the public celebration of the Sabbath, the teachers of the Talmudic school. (year 985) and the properties of those who had of the king or the royal bailiff, although already established to rule the religious, economic, so- taxes: each year the king obliged them to pay a Rosh Hashanah (New Year), Shabuot (Pentecost), th Because of their knowledge, the foremost mem- no heirs passed into the hands of the count. from the 14 century there were enacted ordi- cial, educational, ethical and community life of set amount. This financial contribution was dis- Sukkot (Feast of Tabernacles), Pesach (Passover), bers of the Jewish community formed part of nances that were restrictive for Jews, relating its members. Within the Call, the Jews lived ac- tributed by the secretaries of the aljama among Hanukah (Festival of Lights), Tischa B’Av (Com- the royal court and held such general public of- only to situations or actions outside the Call. cording to the Hebrew religious calendar, ob- the heads of families. To simplify the collection memoration of the Temple) and Purim (Feast of fices as bailiff, tax collector or ambassador. Last- serving the Sabbaths and the religious festivities of this tax, collects (groups of Calls) were creat- Queen Esther) - and it was also the place where ly, it should be noted that numerous Jews made according to their laws and customs, studying ed, which also had to pay right of purveyance assemblies and meetings were held, where a name for themselves in the cultural world the classical texts such as the Bible and the Tal- and special taxes when the king needed money news was announced, where trials took place, as philosophers, men of letters, scientists and mud, marrying and divorcing according to Jew- for a war or coronation festivities. The Jews also where the laws were applied, etc. With respect translators, many of whose works have passed ish law, appearing before the rabbinic court (bet maintained and cared for the lions and other to their working life, most of the Jews in the Call down to our days. din) when there were suits between them, and wild animals owned by the king. were craftsmen and workmen, such as silk veil maintaining their own social, religious and ed- etritxol Av. Catedral P Palla
Pl. del Pi
Nous Sant Sever 3 Pietat
ys t
Ban 4 Pl. Rei 5 2 aradís
7 P
Boqueria Bisbe
Sant Honor a 6 1 8 Call Llibreteria Pl. St. Ferran Jaume Jaume I Ι 30 Ι 31
THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι BARCELONA'S CITY MUSEUM THE JEWISH HERITAGEAvin IN CATALONIA Ι BARCELONA'S CITY MUSEUM Pl. St. yó
Lleona Miquel t
a
t
u
i
Rauric C
THE QUARTERS OF THE CALL THE MAJOR CALL THE MINOR CALL The fact that the Call was an enclosed place did The Call Major or Major Call occupied the north- The Call Menor or Minor Call is also known as
etritxol etritxol Av. Catedral Av. Catedral P not necessarily mean that the Jews lived in isola- east sector of the Roman city. From the Roman P Call de N’Àngela or Call d’En Sanahuja, the lat- Palla Palla tion. On Montjuïc, or Mount of Jews, in addition urban development of Barcelona there remain ter names referring to owners of plots there. The Pl. Pl. to the cemetery the Jews possessed crop lands vestiges of the wall inside the houses between del Pi neighbourhood is an urban development that del Pi and some houses. On the plain of Barcelona Carrer dels Banys Nous and Carrer de l’Arc de was planned in the 13th century and is formed Nous Nous Sant Sever they had many plots, mainly of vineyards, veg- Sant Ramon del Call. The Roman streets that Sant Sever 3 by five blocks, with a synagogue and a square, Pietat Pietat etable gardens, cultivated fields and fruit trees; have been preserved are those of Sant Domènec situated at the foot of the outer part of the New ys ys t t
Ban some of these plots must have been their own Ban 4 Pl. Rei Castle, that is to say, outside the city wall. Pl. Rei 5 2 aradís
and Sant Honorat, once the decumani mino- aradís P while others formed securities. The areas on the 7 P Bisbe ri; Carrer de la Volta, the present-day Carrer de Boqueria Bisbe The Minor Call was not directly connected to the Boqueria
Sant Honor a 6 plain where they had the most properties were, 1 Sant Honor a Sant Sever and Baixada de Santa Eulàlia; a for- 8 Call Llibreteria Major Call. Its limits were Carrer de la Boqueria, Call Llibreteria among others, Magòria, Bederrida, Les Corts, Pl. St. Pl. St. mer cardo minimus, and Carrer del Call, the old Ferran Jaume Jaume I Carrer d’en Rauric, Carrer de la Lleona and Carrer Ferran Jaume Jaume I the foot of Collserola, the area round the Count’s Avin cardo maximus that stretched from the Roman d’Avinyó. It had two gates: one at the foot of
Channel (today known as Rec Comtal), etc. They Rauric yó gate and that was diverted at a certain moment Avin also had houses and workshops at Plaça de Sant Pl. St. Pl. St. yó
the outer part of the New Castle, and the other t Miquel t Miquel
Lleona Lleona a
a t
in time, adopting the form that it still has today. t
u
u
i
i Jaume and stalls at the market of Plaça del Blat. Rauric
at Carrer de la Boqueria, adjacent to Carrer d’en C C Around El Miracle (the place where Carrer del There are also traces of another cardo minimus, Rauric, which may possibly be the gate men- Paradís now stands, where the Roman temple now disappeared, and other medieval alleys. tioned in a record from the year 1255. had been located), in the 11th century there lived the Jewish money-changers Bonhom, Enees The limits of the Major Call were Carrer del Call 1. The entrance of the Major Call Carrer de la Boqueria was the street that led to and David, in a setting that recalls a residential and Castell Nou to the south; Carrer de Sant the quarter. Diverse alleys led off from it to Plaça 2. Carrer de Sant Honorat area and that would later be left outside the pre- Honorat (and more precisely the line of hous- de la Trinitat (which disappeared on building cinct of the Major Call. es between Carrer de Sant Honorat and Carrer 3. Carrer de Sant Sever and Baixada de Santa Eulàlia Carrer de Ferran). This street was occupied later
del Bisbe), to the east; Carrer de Sant Sever and etritxol Av. Catedral by the converted Jews who established them-
P In the medieval Barcelona there were two Jew- Baixada de Santa Eulàlia as far as the Roman 4. Carrer de Sant DomènecPalla del Call selves there with their businesses: goldsmiths, ish quarters: the Call Major or Major Call, and wall, to the north, and a median line between Pl. veil weavers, tailors, shoemakers, etc. 5. delCarrer Pi de l’Arc de Sant Ramon del Call the Call Menor or Minor Call, also called the Call Carrer de l’Arc de Sant Ramon del Call and Car- Carrer de la Volta del Remei, on entering from d’En Sanahuja or Call de N’Àngela. They were not rer dels Banys Nous, to the west; in the middle 6. Carrer de MarletNous Sant Sever connected to one another but it is believed that th Carrer de la Boqueria, may be seen still to pre- of the 13 century, however, the king authorized Pietat th 7. Carrer dels Banysys Nous serve a medieval tower-house from the 13 cen- when the urban development began of Carrer gates and windows to be opened in the Roman t Ban Pl. Rei tury. The street had been called Carrer de l’Arc
dels Banys Nous, Carrer de la Boqueria and Car- aradís wall and the boundaries were extended with the 8. Carrer del Call P d’en Sanahuja in former times. Looking up the rer d’Avinyó, that is to say, when these streets Boqueria Bisbe cut through the old Roman wall, the connection urban development of Carrer d’Avinyó and Car- Call Sant Honor a Llibreteria street from Carrer de Ferran, one sees the rear Pl. St. was much more direct. Between the two Calls rer dels Banys Nous. Ferran Jaume Jaume I part of the tower-house, which has been re-
was the Castell Nou or New Castle. The building Avin formed much less than the front part. Rauric yó called the Banys Nous or New Baths, which were Pl. St.
Miquel t Lleona a
public and unrestricted by reason of religion, t
u i race or gender, may also be considered to stand C adjacent to the two Calls. Ι 33 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι PORTBOU AND WALTER BENJAMIN IV Portbou and Walter Benjamin Ι 34 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι PORTBOU AND WALTER BENJAMIN
Portbou and Walter Benjamin
Walter Benjamin’s time in the town of Portbou, later, he committed suicide when the Spanish on the northern tip of the Costa Brava, on the police informed him that he would be repa- border between Catalonia and France, amount- triated. He died in this small, beautiful town “It is more difficult to ed to little more than 12 hours. His memory, on the Catalan coast. Although the facts of however, endures to this day. his death were suppressed by the Franco re- honour the memory of gime for decades, following the restoration of The German Jewish thinker (Berlin, 1892-Port- the anonymous than democracy the truth has been recovered and bou, 1940) crossed the French-Spanish border dignified. on 25th September in an attempt to escape that of the renowned. from the Nazis. He planned to make his way to ‘There is no document of civilisation that is not Historical construction Portugal and board a ship for America. One day at the same time a document of barbarism’. is devoted to the memory of the anonymous”. Walter Benjamin, 1840
PLACES OF INTEREST ACTIVITIES FURTHER INFORMATION ·· “Passages” Memorial to Walter Benjamin, by ·· Benjamin route. Cross-border route for GPS [email protected] Dani Karavan. devices. ·· Portbou Town Council ·· Portbou cemetery. ·· “PASSATGES”. Border Film Festival. Tel. + 34 972 390 284 ·· Portbou international railway station. ·· International Symposium on Walter Benjamin. [email protected] ·· MUME. Exile Memorial Museum, La Jonquera. ·· Graphic Design Fest. www.walterbenjaminportbou.cat Ι 37 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN PYRENEES V The Catalan Pyrenees Ι 39 THE JEWISH HERITAGE IN CATALONIA Ι THE CATALAN PYRENEES
The Catalan Pyrenees
The Pyrenees is the vast mountain range that de Sant Maurici National Park, the only national separates northern Spain from the rest of Eu- park in Catalonia. With over 300 km of ski slopes, rope, and is fascinating for its stunning natural 10 alpine and 6 Nordic ski resorts, and many oth- The area’s unique landscapes. Stretching 450 km from the Bay of er activities to enjoy in the snow, this is a para- Biscay to the Mediterranean, the range forms a dise for snow sports enthusiasts. The most rug- cultural heritage natural frontier where water, forests and valleys ged trails are ideal for mountain biking and the dominate the landscape, and where many an MTB centres in the area offer plenty of options can be seen in its exciting sensation awaits you, because the Pyr- for exploring the countryside and reaching the enees is synonymous with thrills and adventure. most hidden spots. museums, traditional Are you ready to discover it? The area’s unique cultural heritage can be seen local festivals, PIRINEUS is a tourism brand representing the full in its museums, traditional local festivals, reli- range of tourism activities on offer within the gious murals and Romanesque architecture, religious murals eleven regions located in the Catalan Pyrenees. giving us an idea of how it might have been to and Romanesque The main goal of the Pirineus brand is to pro- live there in the Middle Ages. Particularly worthy mote and consolidate the extensive tourism of- of mention are the nine Romanesque churches architecture, giving us fering that exists in the Catalan Pyrenees and to in the Boí Valley, which received UNESCO World boost its own, special identity as a unique area Heritage designation in 2000. an idea of how it might and landscape. Unique cuisine and a wide variety of accom- have been to live there All sorts of attractive outdoor activities and modation, with over 600 hotels, 100 hundred sports are available in the area, such as skiing, campsites and 500 rural houses, make the Cat- in the Middle Ages. trekking, mountain biking, water sports, hiking alan Pyrenees an authentic treasure just waiting or cycling, all in the spectacular setting of nine to be discovered. natural parks and the Aigüestortes and Estany
FURTHER INFORMARTION ·· Pirineus Tel. +34 93 484 99 00 [email protected] www.visitpirineus.com Costa Brava Girona Tourism Board Image Archive Josep Maria Oliveras · Aniol Resclosa · Pedres de Girona · Manel Puig · Santi Font · Pilar Parcerisas · Barcelona's city Museum · City Council of Tortosa · Maria Geli · Oscar Vall · City Council of Santa Pau Ajuntament Ajuntament de la Comtal Vila de Castelló de Besalú d’Empúries