ENTERTAINING STYLE For Max (left) and Eli Sussman, summer means iced tea spiced with cardamom (p. 66). T WAS A PERFECT JULY AFTERNOON, and the chefs Eli and Max Sussman were facing off in a heated round of Ping-Pong that Party in suggested a long family history with the sport. The two brothers were taking a break from barbecue duty at Ruschmeyer’s, the hotel and restaurant in Montauk where they did a cooking residency The Magic Ilast summer. Founded in the ’50s at the tip of New York’s Long Island and stylishly revamped a few years ago, Ruschmeyer’s is like a summer camp for adults: Cedar cabins surround a lawn (a.k.a. The Magic Garden) dotted with grills, fire pits, hammocks and an oversize tepee. The place Garden could be straight out of Dirty Dancing—only the crowd is a cross section of DURING A CHEF RESIDENCY IN THE tattooed surfers and social butterflies. HAMPTONS, ELI AND MAX SUSSMAN Ever the hosts, the Sussman brothers were flipping paprika-spiked HOST A BARBECUE THAT’S AS FUN AS veggie burgers for their guests at an impromptu afternoon party. Also on A SUMMER-CAMP COOKOUT. the menu: a version of the Middle Eastern kebabs called kofta, made BY LAURA BEGLEY BLOOM PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADRIAN GAUT food stylist: vivian lui; prop stylist: richard vassilatos richard stylist: prop vivian lui; stylist: food JUNE 2016 56 FOLLOW US @FOODANDWINE Entertaining Style Party in The Magic Garden Eli shows off his Ping-Pong skills while friends watch from a hammock in the so-called Magic Garden of Ruschmeyer’s hotel in Montauk. Party refreshments include tequila-watermelon aguas frescas, margarita-like drinks spiked with Prosecco for a bit of fizz (p. 60). from local cod and served on a brioche hot dog bun. Iced tea Max. The duo forged direct relationships with area farmers spiked with cardamom and rosewater fit into the Middle and fishermen, who provided everything from stripers fresh Eastern theme. “It’s the perfect summery drink,” says Eli, off the dock to candy-colored heirloom tomatoes. “with a lot of character”—just like the Sussmans themselves. They’ve been shaking up the food world ever since they PENDING THE SEASON at Ruschmeyer’s was a started cooking at Brooklyn’s Mile End deli (Eli) and Roberta’s flashback for the Sussmans, who grew up going to (Max) and began publishing irreverent cookbooks with summer camp in Three Rivers, Michigan. As adults deadpan titles like This Is a Cookbook and Best Cookbook Ever. they were hired to work in the camp kitchen, with Welcome to paradise, Sussman style. Ruschmeyer’s has then 22-year-old Max in charge and 20-year-old become a Hamptons hot spot thanks to its playful atmosphere, SEli as his trusty sous-chef. The culinary ideology they carved gorgeous views of Fort Pond and farm-to-table philosophy— out there endures today. “The kids were used to chicken an ethos the Sussmans share. The brothers’ party in The Magic nuggets and peanut butter sandwiches,” says Eli. “We tried Garden turned out to be the ideal showcase for their unique to make real food and get them excited about it. We were take on Middle Eastern cuisine, which is on year-round display baking breads, making Indian feasts, roasting chickens.” at Samesa, their stand at the Berg’n beer hall in Brooklyn’s Cooking in the increasingly (and sometimes deafeningly) emerging Crown Heights neighborhood. buzzy beach town of Montauk was a bit of a change from rural “We used the bounty of Montauk and did a really cool menu Michigan, but the experiences have their parallels. “Summer with it, taking a Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern–themed comes around, you sort of shed your city skin and can reinvent inspiration but being superlocal with ingredients,” explains yourself out in the woods,” says Eli. For the Sussmans, great food should have the same elemental appeal, whether prepared in Brooklyn or by the beach. Explains Max, “Going out to eat shouldn’t be superserious or “The place could be straight out intellectual—it should be fun.” of Dirty Dancing—only with tattooed surfers and social butterflies.” Laura Begley Bloom is a writer and editor based in Brooklyn and the Hamptons. Follow her on Twitter @laurabegley. glasses from serax from glasses JUNE 2016 58 FOLLOW US @FOODANDWINE Entertaining Style Party in The Magic Garden “Cooking in the Hamptons wasn’t exactly like working at a summer camp in Michigan, but the experiences have their parallels.” Beet Hummus Pistachio and Yellow Active 20 min; Total 2 hr 20 min Lentil Dip Makes 4 cups Active 15 min; Total 35 min Makes 3 cups 2 lbs. red beets, scrubbed 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 cup yellow lentils (7 oz.), rinsed and picked over 2 Tbsp. ground coriander 1 2/3 cups unsalted pistachios 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (8 oz.) ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, coarsely ¾ cup tahini chopped Kosher salt ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Warm pita bread, for ½ cup water serving ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a medium enameled cast-iron 2 Tbsp. ground coriander casserole, cover the beets with Beet hummus is Kosher salt water and bring to a boil. Cover chickpea-free but ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf flavored like the and braise in the oven for about parsley classic with tahini, 2 hours, until very tender. Using garlic and spices. a slotted spoon, transfer the Warm pita bread, for serving beets to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, slip 1. Cook the lentils in a medium off the skins. Cut the beets into saucepan of boiling water 1-inch pieces, spread them on until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. a baking sheet and refrigerate Drain well. Tequila-Watermelon 1. In a small saucepan, combine until cold, about 1 hour. Aguas Frescas with the water and sugar and bring 2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, 2. In a food processor, combine Prosecco just to a boil, stirring until the toast the pistachios over sugar is completely dissolved. the braised beets with the garlic, moderate heat, stirring, until page 58 Transfer the simple syrup to coriander and lemon juice and deep golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Total 30 min a heatproof bowl and let cool. pulse until finely chopped. With Let cool completely. Makes 12 drinks the machine on, slowly drizzle 3. In a food processor, pulse 2. In a food processor or in the olive oil until incorporated ½ cup water the pistachios with the garlic blender, puree the watermelon and the beet puree is smooth. ½ cup sugar until the nuts are finely chopped. in batches until smooth. Strain Scrape into a bowl and whisk in With the machine on, slowly 1 chilled seedless the puree into a large bowl or the tahini. Season with salt and drizzle in the olive oil, then driz- watermelon (15 lbs.), rind pitcher. Stir in the simple syrup, serve with pita bread. discarded and tequila, lime slices, 3 mint zle in the water and lemon juice watermelon cubed sprigs and ½ cup of water. MAKE AHEAD The hummus can and puree until smooth. Add (20 cups) be refrigerated overnight. the coriander and lentils and 3. To serve, pour the water- pulse until smooth. Season the ¾ cup tequila blanco melon agua fresca into ice-filled dip with salt. Scrape the dip 6 limes, thinly sliced glasses, leaving 1 inch at the top. into a bowl, stir in the parsley Top off the drinks with Prosecco 3 mint sprigs, plus mint and serve with pita bread. leaves for garnish and garnish with mint leaves. MAKE AHEAD The dip can be MAKE AHEAD The strained e Ic refrigerated for 2 days. watermelon juice can be refrig- 1 bottle chilled Prosecco erated overnight. JUNE 2016 60 FOLLOW US @FOODANDWINE Entertaining Style Party in The Magic Garden Grilled Squash, Corn and 2. Meanwhile, make the vinai- Kale Salad with Sunflower grette In a blender, combine Seed Vinaigrette all of the ingredients except the olive oil and salt and blend until Total 45 min; Serves 8 slightly chunky. With the blender SALAD on, drizzle in the olive oil until 2 yellow squash, quartered the dressing is smooth. Season lengthwise with salt. 2 zucchini, quartered 3. Add half of the vinaigrette to lengthwise the salad and toss to coat. 4 ears of corn, shucked Serve, passing the remaining dressing on the side. 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing WINE Zippy, citrusy coastal Kosher salt and pepper white: 2014 Casal de Ventozela Loureiro Vinho Verde. 2 cups shredded red cabbage Kohlrabi Slaw with 1 cup alfalfa or broccoli Harissa Dressing sprouts Total 25 min 4 cups chopped kale Makes about 6 cups VINAIGRETTE 4 kohlrabi (1¼ lbs.), peeled 1/3 cup salted roasted and cut into thin julienne sunflower seeds ½ small red cabbage, finely ½ shallot, chopped shredded (4 cups) 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 large carrots, peeled and The spice mix coarsely grated za’atar flavors a 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice sunflower seed ½ small red onion, finely dressing for squash- ¼ cup lebneh or full-fat chopped and-corn salad. Greek yogurt 1/3 cup chopped cilantro 3 Tbsp. water leaves and stems 1½ Tbsp. za’atar ¼ cup chopped parsley ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup Kewpie mayonnaise Roasted Garlic and olive oil and wrap in foil. Roast Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice Sumac Tzatziki for 45 minutes, until tender. wine vinegar 1. Make the salad Light a grill. Active 20 min; Total 2 hr 30 min Let cool.