Party in the Magic Garden

ENTERTAINING STYLE

For Max (left) and Eli Sussman, summer means iced tea spiced with cardamom (p. 66).

T WAS A PERFECT JULY AFTERNOON, and the chefs Eli and Max Sussman were facing off in a heated round of Ping-Pong that Party in suggested a long family history with the sport. The two brothers were taking a break from barbecue duty at Ruschmeyer’s, the hotel and restaurant in Montauk where they did a cooking residency The Magic Ilast summer. Founded in the ’50s at the tip of New York’s Long Island and stylishly revamped a few years ago, Ruschmeyer’s is like a summer camp for adults: Cedar cabins surround a lawn (a.k.a. The Magic Garden) dotted with grills, fire pits, hammocks and an oversize tepee. The place Garden could be straight out of Dirty Dancing—only the crowd is a cross section of DURING A CHEF RESIDENCY IN THE tattooed surfers and social butterflies. HAMPTONS, ELI AND MAX SUSSMAN Ever the hosts, the Sussman brothers were flipping paprika-spiked HOST A BARBECUE THAT’S AS FUN AS veggie burgers for their guests at an impromptu afternoon party. Also on A SUMMER-CAMP COOKOUT. the menu: a version of the Middle Eastern kebabs called kofta, made

BY LAURA BEGLEY BLOOM PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADRIAN GAUT food stylist: vivian lui; prop stylist: richard vassilatos richard stylist: prop vivian lui; stylist: food

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Eli shows off his Ping-Pong skills while friends watch from a hammock in the so-called Magic Garden of Ruschmeyer’s hotel in Montauk. Party refreshments include tequila-watermelon aguas frescas, margarita-like drinks spiked with Prosecco for a bit of fizz (p. 60).

from local cod and served on a brioche hot dog bun. Iced tea Max. The duo forged direct relationships with area farmers spiked with cardamom and rosewater fit into the Middle and fishermen, who provided everything from stripers fresh Eastern theme. “It’s the perfect summery drink,” says Eli, off the dock to candy-colored heirloom tomatoes. “with a lot of character”—just like the Sussmans themselves. They’ve been shaking up the food world ever since they PENDING THE SEASON at Ruschmeyer’s was a started cooking at Brooklyn’s Mile End deli (Eli) and Roberta’s flashback for the Sussmans, who grew up going to (Max) and began publishing irreverent cookbooks with summer camp in Three Rivers, Michigan. As adults deadpan titles like This Is a Cookbook and Best Cookbook Ever. they were hired to work in the camp kitchen, with Welcome to paradise, Sussman style. Ruschmeyer’s has then 22-year-old Max in charge and 20-year-old become a Hamptons hot spot thanks to its playful atmosphere, SEli as his trusty sous-chef. The culinary ideology they carved gorgeous views of Fort Pond and farm-to-table philosophy— out there endures today. “The kids were used to chicken an ethos the Sussmans share. The brothers’ party in The Magic nuggets and peanut butter sandwiches,” says Eli. “We tried Garden turned out to be the ideal showcase for their unique to make real food and get them excited about it. We were take on Middle Eastern cuisine, which is on year-round display baking breads, making Indian feasts, roasting chickens.” at Samesa, their stand at the Berg’n beer hall in Brooklyn’s Cooking in the increasingly (and sometimes deafeningly) emerging Crown Heights neighborhood. buzzy beach town of Montauk was a bit of a change from rural “We used the bounty of Montauk and did a really cool menu Michigan, but the experiences have their parallels. “Summer with it, taking a Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern–themed comes around, you sort of shed your city skin and can reinvent inspiration but being superlocal with ingredients,” explains yourself out in the woods,” says Eli. For the Sussmans, great food should have the same elemental appeal, whether prepared in Brooklyn or by the beach. Explains Max, “Going out to eat shouldn’t be superserious or “The place could be straight out intellectual—it should be fun.” of Dirty Dancing—only with tattooed surfers and social butterflies.” Laura Begley Bloom is a writer and editor based in Brooklyn and the Hamptons. Follow her on Twitter @laurabegley. glasses from serax from glasses

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“Cooking in the Hamptons wasn’t exactly like working at a summer camp in Michigan, but the experiences have their parallels.”

Beet Hummus Pistachio and Yellow Active 20 min; Total 2 hr 20 min Lentil Dip Makes 4 cups Active 15 min; Total 35 min Makes 3 cups 2 lbs. red beets, scrubbed 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 cup yellow lentils (7 oz.), rinsed and picked over 2 Tbsp. ground coriander 1 2/3 cups unsalted pistachios 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (8 oz.) ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, coarsely ¾ cup tahini chopped Kosher salt ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Warm pita bread, for ½ cup water serving ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a medium enameled cast-iron 2 Tbsp. ground coriander casserole, cover the beets with Beet hummus is Kosher salt water and bring to a boil. Cover chickpea-free but ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf flavored like the and braise in the oven for about parsley classic with tahini, 2 hours, until very tender. Using garlic and spices. a slotted spoon, transfer the Warm pita bread, for serving beets to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, slip 1. Cook the lentils in a medium off the skins. Cut the beets into saucepan of boiling water 1-inch pieces, spread them on until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. a baking sheet and refrigerate Drain well. Tequila-Watermelon 1. In a small saucepan, combine until cold, about 1 hour. Aguas Frescas with the water and sugar and bring 2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, 2. In a food processor, combine Prosecco just to a boil, stirring until the toast the pistachios over sugar is completely dissolved. the braised beets with the garlic, moderate heat, stirring, until page 58 Transfer the simple syrup to coriander and lemon juice and deep golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Total 30 min a heatproof bowl and let cool. pulse until finely chopped. With Let cool completely. Makes 12 drinks the machine on, slowly drizzle 3. In a food processor, pulse 2. In a food processor or in the olive oil until incorporated ½ cup water the pistachios with the garlic blender, puree the watermelon and the beet puree is smooth. ½ cup sugar until the nuts are finely chopped. in batches until smooth. Strain Scrape into a bowl and whisk in With the machine on, slowly 1 chilled seedless the puree into a large bowl or the tahini. Season with salt and drizzle in the olive oil, then driz- watermelon (15 lbs.), rind pitcher. Stir in the simple syrup, serve with pita bread. discarded and tequila, lime slices, 3 mint zle in the water and lemon juice watermelon cubed sprigs and ½ cup of water. MAKE AHEAD The hummus can and puree until smooth. Add (20 cups) be refrigerated overnight. the coriander and lentils and 3. To serve, pour the water- pulse until smooth. Season the ¾ cup tequila blanco melon agua fresca into ice-filled dip with salt. Scrape the dip 6 limes, thinly sliced glasses, leaving 1 inch at the top. into a bowl, stir in the parsley Top off the drinks with Prosecco 3 mint sprigs, plus mint and serve with pita bread. leaves for garnish and garnish with mint leaves. MAKE AHEAD The dip can be MAKE AHEAD The strained e Ic refrigerated for 2 days. watermelon juice can be refrig- 1 bottle chilled Prosecco erated overnight.

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Grilled Squash, Corn and 2. Meanwhile, make the vinai- Kale Salad with Sunflower grette In a blender, combine Seed Vinaigrette all of the ingredients except the olive oil and salt and blend until Total 45 min; Serves 8 slightly chunky. With the blender SALAD on, drizzle in the olive oil until 2 yellow squash, quartered the dressing is smooth. Season lengthwise with salt. 2 zucchini, quartered 3. Add half of the vinaigrette to lengthwise the salad and toss to coat. 4 ears of corn, shucked Serve, passing the remaining dressing on the side. 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing WINE Zippy, citrusy coastal Kosher salt and pepper white: 2014 Casal de Ventozela Loureiro Vinho Verde. 2 cups shredded red cabbage Kohlrabi Slaw with 1 cup alfalfa or broccoli Harissa Dressing sprouts Total 25 min 4 cups chopped kale Makes about 6 cups VINAIGRETTE 4 kohlrabi (1¼ lbs.), peeled 1/3 cup salted roasted and cut into thin julienne sunflower seeds ½ small red cabbage, finely ½ shallot, chopped shredded (4 cups) 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 large carrots, peeled and The spice mix coarsely grated za’atar flavors a 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice sunflower seed ½ small red onion, finely dressing for squash- ¼ cup lebneh or full-fat chopped and-corn salad. Greek yogurt 1/3 cup chopped cilantro 3 Tbsp. water leaves and stems 1½ Tbsp. za’atar ¼ cup chopped parsley ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup Kewpie mayonnaise Roasted Garlic and olive oil and wrap in foil. Roast Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice Sumac Tzatziki for 45 minutes, until tender. wine vinegar 1. Make the salad Light a grill. Active 20 min; Total 2 hr 30 min Let cool. Squeeze out the cloves In a large bowl, coat the squash, 3 Tbsp. harissa Makes 3½ cups and mash until smooth. zucchini and corn with the 2. Peel the cucumber and grate 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 head of garlic 1/4 cup of olive oil and season it on the smallest holes of a box 1 Tbsp. sugar with salt and pepper. Oil the ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil grater. Squeeze out all of the grate and grill the vegetables Kosher salt 1 European cucumber liquid. In a small bowl, mix the over moderate heat, turning cucumber with 1 teaspoon of Combine all of the ingredients Kosher salt occasionally, until lightly salt and let stand for 10 minutes. in a large bowl and toss to coat. charred and just tender, about 3 cups full-fat Greek yogurt Squeeze out all of the liquid Season with salt. 10 minutes for the squash and 2 Tbsp. chopped dill again. Combine the garlic and zucchini and 15 minutes for the MAKE AHEAD The kohlrabi slaw cucumber in a bowl. Add the 1½ Tbsp. sumac corn. Cut the squash and zuc- can be refrigerated overnight. remaining olive oil as well as all chini into 2-inch pieces and 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar of the remaining ingredients, return to the bowl. Cut the corn ½ tsp. garlic powder season with salt and mix well. kernels off of the cobs and add Refrigerate the tzatziki for at to the bowl; let cool to room 1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Cut least 1 hour before serving. temperature. Stir in the red 1 inch off the top of the garlic. cabbage, sprouts and kale. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon of the

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The Sussmans use local cod to create an intensely seasoned seafood version of the Middle Eastern meat kebabs called kofta. They also opt to skip the meat when making burgers; instead, their patties combine roasted zucchini, panko and parsley, with smoked paprika for a nice kick.

Fish Kofta Sandwiches Canola oil Zucchini Burgers with 2 baking sheets in a single layer. Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 30 min 8 top-split hot dog buns Roasted Garlic Tzatziki Roast until golden, turning the Serves 8 (preferably brioche) and Active 40 min; Total 3 hr squash and rotating the baking Kohlrabi Slaw (p. 62) sheets halfway through, 1 hour. KOFTA Serves 8 Let cool to room temperature. 2 lbs. skinless cod fillets, 1. Make the kofta In a food 3 lbs. zucchini, sliced into cut into 1-inch pieces processor, pulse the fish until ½-inch-thick rounds 2. In a bowl, combine both paprikas with the cayenne, gar- 2 garlic cloves, minced chopped and chunky. Scrape 3 lbs. yellow squash, sliced lic and 1 tablespoon of salt. into a bowl, add all of the into ½-inch-thick rounds ½ cup minced red onion remaining ingredients and mix In a food processor, pulse the Extra-virgin olive oil 2 Fresno chiles, minced well. Form into eight 6-inch- squash and zucchini with the Kosher salt and pepper paprika spice mix in 2 batches ½ cup chopped curly parsley long cylinders and refrigerate until finely chopped. Transfer on a parchment-lined baking 1 Tbsp. smoked paprika 2 Tbsp. ground coriander sheet for at least 30 minutes. to a large bowl. Stir in the panko 1 tsp. sweet paprika 2 Tbsp. ground cumin and parsley and mix gently. 2. Make the glaze In a small 1 tsp. cayenne 2 Tbsp. za’atar bowl, whisk together all of the 3. Form the mixture into eight 2 garlic cloves, minced 4-inch burgers about 1 inch 2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce ingredients except the canola thick. Arrange the burgers on oil, buns and slaw. 4 cups panko 2 tsp. kosher salt a parchment-lined baking sheet 3. Light a grill. Brush the kofta ½ cup chopped parsley 1 tsp. black pepper and refrigerate for 1 hour. with 2 tablespoons of canola Potato rolls, kale leaves, 2 large eggs, beaten 4. On a griddle, heat 2 table- oil. Grill over moderate heat until sliced tomato and spoons of olive oil. Cook the 1 cup dry breadcrumbs golden, about 8 minutes. Cover Roasted Garlic and Sumac and grill over low heat, brushing Tzatziki (p. 62), for burgers over moderately high GLAZE with the glaze and turning occa- serving heat until well-browned and ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil sionally, until cooked through, heated through, 5 to 7 minutes 1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In per side. Set the zucchini ¼ cup rice wine vinegar about 15 minutes more. Serve a large bowl, toss the zucchini the kofta in the hot dog buns, burgers on the rolls and serve 1 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce and yellow squash with 6 table- topped with the kohlrabi slaw. with the toppings. spoons of olive oil. Season with ½ tsp. za’atar BEER Light-bodied, summery WINE Dry Riesling: 2014 salt and pepper and spread on ½ tsp. smoked paprika Tatomer Vandenberg. ale: Evil Twin Bikini Beer.

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Start with great ingredients, and handle them with care. A high-performance versatile knife like the Shun Premier Kiritsuke has a premium “super steel” cutting core and a ﬁ ne edge that’s perfect for mincing this vinaigrette’s apples and radishes. The drag-reducing hammered ﬁ nish and sharp double-beveled edge let you slice steaks cleanly—keeping more juices inside, where they belong.

PHOTO: EVA KOLENKO

Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Apple-Radish Vinaigrette ACTIVE: 30 MIN • TOTAL TIME: 30 MIN • SERVES 4 Cardamom Rosewater Iced Tea Coffee-Cardamom Granita Ingredients page 56 Active 20 min; Total 3 hr; Serves 8 Active 10 min; Total 25 min plus chilling cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling the 4 tsp. instant coffee grate and brushing the steaks Serves 8 ½ tsp. ground cinnamon Two 1-inch-thick boneless rib eye steaks 1/2 cup green cardamom pods (2 oz.) ¼ tsp. ground cardamom (1½ pounds total), at room temperature 2 1 black tea bags Salt and pepper ½ cup sugar 1/2 cup honey 3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar 3 cups hot water e Ic ¼ cup minced radish 3/4 cup heavy cream Combine all of the ingredients in a ¼ cup minced crisp, sweet apple, such as Honeycrisp medium bowl and whisk until the sugar is 8 drops of rosewater dissolved. Pour the mixture into a 9-by- Directions 1. In a small skillet, toast the cardamom 13-inch metal baking pan and freeze for 1. Light a grill and oil the grate. Brush the steaks all pods over moderate heat, stirring, until 1 hour. Scrape the frozen granita around over with olive oil and season generously with salt very fragrant and deep golden, about the edges into the center and freeze for and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning 5 minutes. Transfer to a heatproof bowl. about 2 hours longer, scraping every once, until medium-rare, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to Add the tea bags and 8 cups of hot water 30 minutes, until the granita is icy and a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. and let steep for 15 minutes. Strain the flaky throughout. 2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix the cup of olive tea into a bowl and stir in the honey. Cover MAKE AHEAD The granita can be frozen oil with the vinegar, radish and apple. Season the and refrigerate until cold. for up to 3 days. Scrape it once more vinaigrette with salt and pepper. Carve steaks against 2. Pour the tea into 8 ice-filled glasses. before serving. the grain. Serve with the vinaigrette. Top each serving with 1½ tablespoons of heavy cream and 1 drop of rosewater. For more information, MAKE AHEAD The strained cardamom tea can be refrigerated for 3 days. visit shun.kaiusaltd.com

Hamptons Insider’s Guide Writer Laura Begley Bloom, who lives part-time in the Hamptons town of Amagansett, shares her essential addresses. The list covers everything from her favorite clam and lobster shacks to the reservations-only places where one might spot Jerry Seinfeld having dinner.

BREAKFAST SPOTS SEAFOOD SHACKS Estia’s Little Kitchen, Clam Bar, Amagansett Sag Harbor This open-air shack by the side It’s worth the wait at this roadside of the highway specializes in just- cabin for Latin-inspired egg dishes. harvested clams and simple 1615 Bridgehampton–Sag Harbor seafood dishes. 2025 Montauk Tpke.; estias.com. Hwy.; clambarhamptons.com. Grindstone Coffee and Donuts, The Lobster Roll, Amagansett Sag Harbor Clam Bar’s competition across the Kyle Shanahan, stepson of The road is the place for (you guessed Chew chef Michael Symon (p. 102), it) lobster rolls, hot or cold. 1980 bakes brioche-style doughnuts. Montauk Hwy.; lobsterroll.com. 7A Main St.; grindstonecoffee anddonuts.com. DRINKS Montauk’s waves The American Hotel, Joni’s Kitchen, Montauk are famous among Sag Harbor Where surfers and celebrities—like East Coast surfers. A drink here is a must—the bar Gwyneth Paltrow—go for organic feels like it’s been transported from breakfast wraps. 28 S. Etna Ave. #9; another era, full of eccentric jonismontauk.com. Hamptons characters. 49 Main St.; CLASSICS HOTELS Market Sagg Main, Sagaponack theamericanhotel.com. Nick & Toni’s, East Hampton The Chequit, Shelter Island A dashing Frenchman is Montauket, Montauk transforming an old general store The most exclusive and elusive The recently renovated Victorian This waterfront bar is a dive, but into a terrific place to get café au reservation in the Hamptons, with has been converted into a stylish the sunsets are otherworldly. lait and croissants. 542 Sagg Main a Northern Italian meets hideaway for those in the know. 88 Firestone Rd.; 631-668-5992. St.; pierresbridgehampton.com. Mediterranean menu. 136 N. Main 23 Grand Ave.; thechequit.com. St.; nickandtonis.com. Wölffer Kitchen, Sag Harbor c/o The Maidstone, MARKETS AND FARM This new wine bar from Wölffer The 1770 House, East Hampton East Hampton STANDS Estate Vineyard focuses on wine- The tavern at this historic inn This grande dame was given a Cavaniola’s Gourmet, friendly food pairings. 29 Main St.; serves great meatloaf; the dining Scandinavian-chic overhaul Sag Harbor wolfferkitchen.com. room upstairs is for more a few years back. The restaurant Michael Cavaniola left the ambitious New American cooking. specializes in Swedish-modern architecture business to build this DINNER BY THE SEA 143 Main St.; 1770house.com. cooking; the small bar serves great impressive house of cheese—plus, Navy Beach, Montauk cocktails. 207 Main St.; Meeting House, Amagansett delicious prepared foods next door. A former saloon turned nautical- themaidstone.com. Reinvented country classics in 89 Division St.; cavaniolas.com. chic restaurant opens onto a friendly neighborhood setting. Ruschmeyer’s, Montauk a pebbly crescent beach. 16 Navy 4 Amagansett Sq.; meetinghouse At this summer-camp-style hotel Balsam Farm Stand, Rd.; navybeach.com. Amagansett amagansett.com. by the sea, most of the rooms have A charming stand that sells Scarpetta Beach, Montauk an individual grill out front, and Harbor Hall, Shelter Island produce grown right out back and This outpost of the Manhattan spot nights end with s’mores around a The new lounge and bar at the other provisions. 284 Town Ln.; specializes in Italian dishes like fluke fire pit. 161 2nd House Rd.; Ram’s Head Inn has a fantastic raw balsamfarms.com. crudo. 290 Old Montauk Hwy.; chelseahotels.com/us/montauk/ bar and locally sourced menu. scarpettarestaurants.com. ruschmeyer-s. North Sea Farms, Southampton 108 Ram Island Dr.; theramshead Hidden away between Sag Harbor Sunset Beach, Shelter Island inn.com. Topping Rose House, and Southampton, this family- Bridgehampton Hotelier André Balazs’s sceney Tutto il Giorno, Southampton owned spot is worth the detour for St. Tropez–style restaurant. Big news: Star chef Jean-Georges Designer Donna Karan’s daughter farm-fresh eggs and just-cut 35 Shore Rd.; sunsetbeachli.com. Vongerichten has replaced flowers. 1060 Noyac Rd.; Gabby runs the rustic Italian, Tom Colicchio in the kitchen at this 631-283-0735. celebrity-filled spot (there’s also a luxurious Greek Revival inn. location in Sag Harbor). 56 Nugent 1 Bridgehampton–Sag Harbor St.; tuttoilgiorno.com. Tpke.; toppingrosehouse.com.

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