Languedoc-Pézenas, a Figure That Has Been Emmanuel Pageot
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XXXXXXXXXX Regional profile Pézenas This Languedoc enclave, known for its distinctive, generous reds, is the latest to seek full appellation Pézenas status. James Lawther MW meets the established at a names and exciting newcomers behind the drive glance Potential surface area 1,500ha AS THE LANGUEDOC rebuilds its hierarchy of of olive trees also in evidence, and, if wild Delimited appellations, there’s one name that’s likely to fennel characterises the plant life of the communes figure more prominently in coming years, and southern reaches, the rosemary and thyme of 15 (Adissan, Aspiran, that’s Pézenas. Bottlings of red Languedoc- the garrigue can be found further north. Caux, Fontès, Pézenas have been permitted since 2006 but As with much of the Languedoc, viticulture Fouzilhon, Gabian, now the region is chasing full appellation has been practised in the region for centuries, Lieuran-Cabrières, status, following in the footsteps of Terrasses the Greeks and Etruscans introducing Montesquieu, du Larzac in 2014 and Pic St-Loup in 2016. cultivation. In Gallo-Roman times the town of Neffiès, Nizas, Heading up the quest are the region’s Pézenas was a strategic point in trading routes Paulhan, Péret, established names of Prieuré St-Jean de and the discovery of amphorae provides Pézenas, Roujan, Bébian, Domaine de Nizas, Domaine Les evidence of viticultural activity. In the Middle Vailhan) Aurelles and Domaine Le Conte des Floris, not Ages the religious orders took on the mantle Area under to mention the ubiquitous Jean-Claude Mas. – the chapel at St-Jean de Bébian was built in production 156ha But in support are a growing number of 1150. And from the 13th to 18th centuries, Production (2015) relatively recent but highly motivated royal patronage from successive French kings 6,100hl or newcomers. These are domaines owned by provided privilege and protection, allowing 813,000 bottles novice producers or ‘néo-vignerons’ as they the area to prosper further. Producers have been dubbed, as this is their first In the 18th century a number of sizeable 32, including 3 winemaking venture. viticultural estates evolved, some, such as cooperatives period of prosperity was finally brought to a for inclusion in the Pézenas appellation Above: old Carignan Bounded by Faugères to the west, the Nizas and Belles Eaux, still recognisable today, Permitted grape close with the arrival of odium and phylloxera increases. Permitted grape varieties are the vines at Mas Gabriel in Hérault river to the east, Picpoul de Pinet to albeit in modified form. varieties Syrah, in the vineyards, between 1880 and 1892. classic Languedoc varieties of Syrah, Grenache, the village of Caux the south and the foothills of the Montagne The spread of viticulture in the 19th Grenache and Replanting followed and, after several Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. Noire to the north, Pézenas appears as an century initially owed much to the production Mourvèdre decades of evolution since, modern Pézenas Terroir is the defining feature of each intermediary zone between the coastal plain of vermouth in this corner of southern France. (minimum 70%), now sees a delimited zone of 15 communes appellation and Pézenas has its own identity. and the more dramatic higher reaches of the Plantings of both red and white grapes then Carignan, Cinsault and 1,500ha (hectares) producing 3.6 million ‘We’re an equitable balance between the Languedoc. The land varies in altitude from increased during the industrial revolution, the Maximum yield bottles of red AP Languedoc (2015). Included organic southern plain and inorganic northern 20m to 300m in the northwest, providing a clamour for table wine that could now be 45hl/ha in this statistic are just over 800,000 bottles of slopes,’ says Domaine Turner Pageot’s ripple of hills and valleys with a tiny village transported by rail to Paris driving demand. Average yield Languedoc-Pézenas, a figure that has been Emmanuel Pageot. Climatically, Pézenas could never far away. Copses of green oak appear In the district of Pézenas, 77% of the cultivable 35hl/ha constantly rising as the number of parcels that be described as middling Mediterranean, in between the vineyards, the occasional cluster land was taken up by vineyards, but this Photograph:SamGibson have been identified and officially authorised the absence of a strong maritime influence ➢ 56 | April 2017 • DECANTER DECANTER • April 2017 | 57 PEZENAS Lac du MONTAGNE A75 Hérault NOIRE Salagou LANGUEDOC A75 or moderation due to altitude. The climate is Montpellier N Clermont- l’Hérault warmer than Terrasses du Larzac and, with a Faugères A9 FAUGERES yearly rainfall of 550mm-600mm, drier than Pic St-Loup, if not as extreme as La Clape Pézenas D2 A75 (350mm). PICPOUL Sète Béziers DE PINET Lieuran- Soil types are varied and include schist in Agde Mediterranean Cabrières A9 Sea Hérault the northwest (good for Syrah), sandstone and Péret limestone-clay, but the two defining soil types Peyne D13 Aspiran Faugères are Villafranchien gravel and basalt. Montesquieu The former is essentially riverbed pebbles, Vailhan sometimes Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like galets Paulhan Adissan roulés, and when matched with Grenache PEZENAS N9 vines contributes considerably to the full, Gabian Nizas round, generous nature of Pézenas wines. Caux A75 ‘This is serious gravel that can go down Fouzilhon Roujan D32 10m to 15m,’ explains Basile St-Germain of Domaine Les Aurelles. The basalt is unique LANGUEDOC Hérault and is formed from two ridges of volcanic lava, FRANCE Pézenas its rocky scree covering some of the 0 5 10 surrounding area. In terms of taste, Carignan kilometres seems to do well here and a touch of finesse and cool freshness is added to the wines. ➢ Six producers to watch Prieuré St-Jean de Bébian and Carmina Major are the two Pézenas Undoubtedly the leading light in cuvées, both being fleshy but firm. Pézenas, Bébian is also one of the Languedoc’s unofficial first growths. Mas Gabriel The history can be traced back to Deborah and Peter Core realised the Roman times, but its modern-day dream of owning their own vineyard in reputation was established in the 2006. They completed a winemaking 1970s when previous owner Alain course and vintage in New Zealand and Roux replanted the vineyard with Serge Schwartz, Villa Tempora another harvest in Bordeaux before mass-selection Syrah from Jean- acquiring the vineyard in Caux. Now Louis Chave, Grenache from Château Domaine Le Conte des Floris with 6.5ha they enjoy doing everything Rayas and Mourvèdre from Domaine Daniel Le Conte des Floris swapped the themselves, producing Les Trois Tempier. Present owners (since 2008), role of critic (he used to edit La Revue du Terrasses, a Carignan-based IGP red; the Russian Pumpyanskiy family has Vin de France) for winemaker in 2000. a floral white made essentially from provided further momentum with the He initially learned his new trade in Carignan Blanc; and the persistent, construction of a new winery (2016). Burgundy and this is reflected in the spicy Syrah-dominated Pézenas cuvée, Bébian wines can age. style of the wines. Each cuvée matches Clos des Lièvres. grape variety to a particular terroir and Domaine Les Aurelles the extraction is gentle, providing a Villa Tempora Basile St-Germain is a perfectionist and more delicate touch to the red wines. Serge Schwartz used to run a chain of it shows in his wines. He and his wife hotels in Paris before a lifestyle change Caroline established organically run Domaine Turner Pageot drew him south to Pézenas. A bed-and- Les Aurelles in 1995 following the sale In between her winemaking duties at breakfast was the first project, but then of the family Cognac business Léopold Prieuré St-Jean de Bébian since 2004 in 2008 he established Villa Tempora Gourmel. There are two red cuvées, the (see above), Australian Karen Turner with viticultural consultant Jean- Carignan- and Grenache-based Solen also finds time to run this 10ha property Pierre Sanson. The 7ha vineyard has a and Mourvèdre-dominant Aurel. Both with partner Emmanuel Pageot. Both mix of terroirs and is run organically. are fermented and then aged for four have extensive winemaking experience The grapes are hand-harvested and years in tank and have an estimable around the world and at one point fermented using indigenous yeasts. purity of fruit and tannin. There’s worked for Chapoutier where they were There are three Pézenas cuvées: Le also a tiny production of white made introduced to biodynamics. Their first Démon du Midi and L’Ange Vin, both from mass-selection Roussanne from vintage was 2008, the wines produced rich and generous; and Villa Tempora, Château de Beaucastel. from north-facing vineyards. Le Rouge juicy and easy drinking. Map:Maggie Nelson 58 | April 2017 • DECANTER PEZENAS If the drive for change and improvement (Allegria), pharmacist (Pech Rome) and Above: Domaine de St-Jean de Bébian and Les Aurelles there are a was initiated by the cooperatives in the 1990s, businessman (Ste-Cécile du Parc). A more l’Aster’s vineyards at number of domaines growing in stature. In it is now firmly in the hands of the independent global view of the wine world, lifestyle Péret lie at the foot of terms of vintages, 2013 and 2015 are top, but producers. The president of the local syndicat, motivation and healthy investment are the the Malhubert volcano 2014 will not disappoint. Keep an eye out for Jacques Bilhac, hails from the co-op movement elements helping to push Pézenas to the fore. the Carignan Blanc-based whites from Le but created his own Domaine de l’Aster in Clearly, surface area and production have to Conte des Floris and Mas Gabriel as well. D 2014. Other newcomers include a child increase further for Pézenas to acquire greater psychiatrist (La Font des Ormes), wine repute.