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Miszellen Zur Gartengeschichte Und Gartendenkmalpflege Klaus

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Miszellen Zur Gartengeschichte Und Gartendenkmalpflege Klaus AHA! Miszellen zur Gartengeschichte und Gartendenkmalpflege ERWARTUNGEN AN DEN ERDBEERZÜCHTER IM WANDEL DER ZEIT Klaus Olbricht Europas ursprüngliche Erdbeeren reichhaltigsten Muster und die höchsten Aromasummen mit instrumenteller Analy- ange bevor die Kulturerdbeere, Fra- tik nachgewiesen.1 Die Früchte dieser Art Lgaria × ananassa Duch., vor rund weisen ein intensives und einzigartiges 260 Jahren als europäisches Kind Aroma auf, das durch fruchtige, blumige amerikanischer Eltern (F. chiloensis (L.) und laktonartige (wie Pfi rsich, Kokos u. ä.) Miller × F. virginiana Miller) zunächst auf- Noten gekennzeichnet ist. Untersuchungen grund spontaner Hybridisierung entstand, zur Diversität der Fruchtqualität erbrachten wurden in Europa vor allem Walderdbeeren bei F. vesca ein sehr breites Spektrum, jede (Fragaria vesca L.), Moschuserdbeeren (Fra- der Akzessionen (geographische Herkünft e) garia moschata Weston) und Hügelerd- besitzt ein typisches Muster.2 Gleiches gilt beeren (Fragaria viridis Weston) als Obst für die Zucker- und Säuregehalte. Die stoff - gesammelt, selektiert und in Kultur genom- liche Zusammensetzung der Aromamuster men. Diese Erdbeeren haben ihr Verbrei- der F. viridis ist hingegen wesentlich weni- tungsgebiet im eurasischen Raum, vom ger reichhaltig und die Aromasummen sind Baikalsee bis an die europäischen Außen- geringer. Dennoch sind ihre Früchte sehr grenzen, wobei die Walderdbeere F. vesca angenehm frisch-fruchtig im Aroma und mit drei Unterarten auch in Nordamerika wurden in einigen Regionen unter der Be- vorkommt. Sie besiedeln vorzugsweise zeichnung Hügelerdbeere oder Pressling ge- Waldränder; F. viridis ist kalkanzeigend und sammelt, in den Niederlanden wohl auch auch auf Wiesen in Höhen lagen anzutreff en. unter der Bezeichnung »Judenerdbeere«3 Leider sind Anbau und auch Züchtung auf kultiviert. F. viridis liefert die einzigen wirk- der Wildartebene in Europa nahezu ver- lich festen Früchte der gesamten Gattung. loren gegangen. Kultivare von F. vesca Aus diesem Grund ist diese Art neuerdings (bekannt oftmals unter der Bezeichnung von besonderem züchterischem Interesse. Monats erdbeeren als forma semperfl orens) Moschuserdbeeren werden heute noch und von F. moschata existieren immer noch im Piemont nahe Mailand angebaut. Dort in Hausgärten, werden als Gourmetfrüchte wurde die alte Tradition des Anbaus der sogar über den Großhandel vertrieben oder ›Profumata di Tortona‹ auf Initiative der in bestimmten Regionen erwerbsobstbau- Slow Food Bewegung mit Hilfe eines von lich kultiviert. Die Aromamuster von F. der Kommune geförderten Konsortiums vesca und F. moschata sind im Vergleich zu wiederbelebt. Heute bauen neun Betriebe unseren Kultursorten, aber auch im Ver- die Früchte auf insgesamt etwa 1800 ha an, gleich zu den anderen Wildarten (ca. 22 mit einer jährlichen Gesamternte von etwa Arten und vier Hybridarten sind weltweit 36 Tonnen. Hauptsächlich werden lokale bekannt) quantitativ und qualitativ sehr Märkte, Restaurants etc. beliefert, auch in stark ausgeprägt. Entsprechend außerge- den benachbarten Gebieten von Genua und wöhnlich sind auch ihre sensorischen Mailand.4 Verwendung fi nden die Früchte Eigenschaft en. Bei F. moschata wurden die als Frischware, für Gebäck, Eis, Marmelade, 56 Erwartungen an den Erdbeerzüchter im Wandel der Zeit Likör und vieles mehr. Auch für das Dresd- erdbeeren (F. moschata) und Selektionen aus ner-Radebeuler Elbtal sind Erdbeeren als dem Formenkreis der amerikanischen Chile- Nebenkultur zum Wein verbürgt.5 Sehr (F. chiloensis) und Scharlacherdbeere (F. vir- wahrscheinlich ist davon auszugehen, dass es giniana) handelte. Die Erdbeeren wurden in sich um Walderdbeeren (F. vesca), Moschus- Spanschachteln verpackt, diese in großen 1 | Fragaria × vesca ›Fontaine‹: Eine Wilderdbeersorte für Tisch, Balkon und als Bodendecker, Fotografi e: Klaus Olbricht, 2013. 57 AHA! Miszellen zur Gartengeschichte und Gartendenkmalpflege Weidenkörben verstaut. 1901 konnte man in Auch Chemnitz und Berlin wurden beliefert. der »Gartenfl ora: Zeitschrift für Garten und Der erste deutsche Erdbeerzüchter Franz Blumenkunde« lesen: Göschke aus Köthen entwickelte Sorten von F. moschata und beschreibt in seinem »Buch »[…]neuerdings sind die grossartigen An- der Erdbeeren«7 auch entsprechend Sorten pflanzungen auf den durch Reblaus ver- von F. vesca. Heute wird versucht, an diese wüsteten Weinbergen in der Lößnitz bei Tradition anzuknüpfen. Ein Beispiel ist die Dresden hinzugekommen, etwa 4-500 ha. Neuzüchtung Fragaria × vesca ›Fontaine‹, Vom Hauptort Kötzschenbroda, wo in der die aus der Kreuzungsarbeit mit einer euro- Saison täglich eine Erdbeerbörse abgehal- päischen Walderbeere (Fragaria vesca) und ten wird, wurden 1892 vom 27. Mai bis 15. einer japanischen Wilderdbeere (Fragaria Juni 39436 kg per Bahn versandt, 1899 vom iinumae Makino) entstanden ist (Abb. 1). 29. Mai bis 1. Juli 41021 kg; mindestens Um über alte Sorten und die Weinberg- eben so viel ging direkt nach Dresden.«6 erdbeeren historische Belege und eventuell 2 | In einem ehemaligen Weinberg in Dresden überdauerte Weinbergerdbeere, off enbar eine »Chile-Erdbeere«, aufgefunden von M. Köhler, Fotografi e: Klaus Olbricht, 2015. 58 Erwartungen an den Erdbeerzüchter im Wandel der Zeit auch überlebende Pfl anzen in den Weinber- schützter Anbau unter Folie und Glas) und gen des Dresdner Elbtales zu fi nden, arbei- die Forderungen der Vermarktung (Trans- ten das Institut für Landschaft sarchitektur portfähigkeit, Festigkeit) eine entschei- und das Institut für Botanik der TU Dres- dende Rolle. den sowie das Senckenberg-Institut Görlitz mit dem Züchtungsunternehmen Hansa- Die Kulturerdbeere als typisches Beispiel bred zusammen. Es konnten bereits Akzes- der Domestikation von Kulturpfl anzen sionen in ehemaligen Weinbergen bzw. an deren Rändern gesammelt werden (Abb. 2). Bei der Züchtung neuer Erdbeersorten Das Auffinden historischer Quellen wird wurde in der Vergangenheit das Aroma eine langwierige Arbeit werden, bevor ein gegenüber einem hohen Ertrag, der Frucht- vollständiges Bild gezeichnet werden kann. größe, der Fruchtfestigkeit und der Trans- Züchterische Aktivitäten führten indes portfähigkeit lange vernachlässigt. Durch zu einer Neuaufl age von Gourmet-Erdbee- diese Fokussierung auf wirtschaftlich ren, die im Hegelschen Sinne als eine »Auf- relevante Eigenschaft en gingen durch den hebung« der Weinbergerdbeeren in unsere sogenannten negativen Domestikations- Zeit verstanden werden könnten (Abb. 3). eff ekt - oder auch »Trichter-Eff ekt« - Aroma- stoff e und Resistenzen in den heutigen Kul- Sensorische Wahrnehmung und Züchtung turformen verloren. Die Thematisierung als Co-Evolution von solchen Eff ekten bei der Kulturerdbeere ist jüngeren Datums und wurde durch Generell unterliegt die Züchtung von Nah- Probleme mit Krankheiten bei der Kultur- rungsmittelpfl anzen einer Co-Evolution, die führung und eine durch den Verbraucher geprägt ist von der Suche nach angenehm zunehmend negativ beurteilte sensorische schmeckenden, süßen, nicht sauren, nicht Qualität von Hochleistungssorten herbei- bitteren oder adstringierenden Sorten mit geführt. Neben züchtungshistorischen hohen Erträgen. An diese sensorischen Betrachtungen sind es vor allem Inhalts- Reaktionen sind Informationen gebunden, stoffanalysen und molekularbiologische die für den Menschen essentiell sind. Süß Studien, die die genetische Erosion belegen weist auf Zucker und schnell verfügbare können.11 Energie, umami auf Proteine, Fleisch eben- Züchtung bewegt sich zwischen zwei falls auf eine Energiequelle, salzig auf konträren Ansätzen: Variabilität schaffen physiologisch wichtige Mineralien hin. und Variabilität einengen (Abb. 4). Aus die- Sauer hingegen warnt vor Unreife und bitter sem Wechselspiel entstehen neue Sorten. vor Gift en.8 Diese Wirkmechanismen gelten Die Auslese ist eine Haupttätigkeit des evolutionär. Hinzu kommt, dass bei moder- Züchters. Streng genommen ist jede Selek- nen Studien Schlüsselmotive bei der Lebens- tion der Anfang eines Trichtereff ektes und mittelwahl in folgender Reihenfolge ge- geht damit von Anbeginn der Domestika- nannt werden: Genuss und Geschmack, tion dem Menschen nützlicher Lebewesen »Convenience«, Preis, Gesundheit und die einher, die zeitlich im Neolithikum mit dem »Nachhaltigkeit« (»BIO«-Aspekt).9 Aroma Übergang der Jäger und Sammler zu den und Geschmack (»Flavour«) haben eine Ackerbauern (Gartenbauern) einzuordnen direkte Wirkung auf unser Wohlbefinden ist.12 Aufgrund beschränkter genetischer und unsere Gesundheit.10 Neben diesen sen- Ausgangsbasis am Beginn der Domes- sorisch defi nierten Anforderungen an die tikation und intensiver nachfolgender Züchtung spielen alle gartenbaulichen Züchtungsarbeit über lange Zeiträume zei- Eigenschaften und die Anbauwürdigkeit gen heute viele Kulturpflanzen nicht nur der Sorten in sich verändernden Umwelt- Steigerungen in gewünschten Eigenschaft en bedingungen und Kultursystemen (Feld, ge- wie Fruchtgröße, Ertrag und Haltbarkeit, 59 AHA! Miszellen zur Gartengeschichte und Gartendenkmalpflege 3 | Weinbergerdbeeren 2.0: Aus dem Hansabred-Züchtungsprogramm zusammengestellte Wildartselektionen mit aromatischen und optischen Überraschungen, Fotografi e: Klaus Olbricht, 2016. sondern auch negative Domestikationsef- Auswahl von vornehmlich Hochleistungs- fekte wie verringerte Metabolitenspektren sorten als Kreuzungspartner zu suchen. (Aroma) und Resistenzverluste. Diese Ver- Die der Domestikation von Nahrungs- änderungen haben ihre Spiegelung auf der mittelpflanzen immanente Suche nach genetischen Ebene. süßen,
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