Myeong-dong and ()

1. Hwangudan 2. Myeong-dong 3. Myeongdong Theatre 4. Myeong-dong Cathedral 5. Postage Stamp Museum 6. Bank of Korea Money Museum 7. Namdaemun Market 8. Sungnyemun Gate 9. Culture Station Seoul 284 10. Ahn Jung-Geun Memorial Hall—Introduction 11. Ahn Jung-Geun Memorial Hall—Exhibit Halls 12. Namsan Bongsudae Beacon Tower 13. Namsan Palgakjeong Pavilion 14. N Seoul Tower 15. Seoul City Wall - Namsan Mountain Trail 16 남Namsangol Village—Introduction 17. Namsangol Hanok Village—Traditional Korean Houses 18. Jangchungdan Park

- 1 - An altar representing the dreams of the Great 1. Hwangudan Korean Empire

The first character of the altar’s name means “circular” or “round” hence Hwangudan translates to “round altar.” The altar was built to protect the king’s authority at the end of the 19th century, when King Gojong’s power was being threatened. Here, Gojong declared as the “Daehan Empire,” offered a ritual to the heavens, and was proclaimed as emperor. In 1910, Japan took over Joseon and began building Western-style buildings in Seoul to assert their power. In the process, Hwangudan was destroyed and a hotel was built in its place. Today, Hwanggungu, a three-storied octagonal shrine, remains along with a gate and three drums with dragon decorations. The drums were constructed in 1902 inside Hwangudan Altar to commemorate Emperor Gojong’s 40-year reign. The stairs of the arched gate in front of Hwanggungu, which enshrines ancestral tablets for the gods of heaven, had a central stone slab called the “Dapdo” for the Emperor to walk on. The stone fence is adorned with stone statues of Haechi, a mythological animal believed to offer protection against fire and disasters. Hwanggungu enshrines the ancestral tablets for the gods of heaven and it is lit by natural sunlight coming in from the 24 windows on the third level. On the ceiling, there is a painting of a “Chil-jo-Ryong,” a dragon with seven claws. This dragon symbolizes the authority of the King of Joseon or the Emperor of the Daehan Empire, and Korea’s desire to become a great nation.

- 2 - A major shopping and economic hub of 2. Myeong-dong Korea

The streets of Myeong-dong are always crowded with s h o p p e r s , couples, office workers, and tourists. Popular fashion brands, famous Korean cosmetics stores, and great tasting food can be found here. The modernization of Myeong-dong began in the 1920s. With Cheonggye Stream dividing the city, the people of Joseon settled north of the stream while the Japanese settled south of the stream. Located south of Cheonggyecheon, Myeong-dong was developed into a commercial district by Japanese residents. In 1945 (the year Korea gained independence from Japan), plenty of small theatres opened up, thereby attracting many actors, musicians and artists to the area. The coffee shops and bars were frequented by artists discussing and sharing their talents, eventually making Myeong-dong the center of Korean arts and culture. In the 1960s, redevelopment took place and all the coffee shops and theaters were replaced by commercial stores, making Myeong-dong the main shopping district that it is today. Today, shopping malls, cosmetics stores, currency exchange stalls, coffee shops and restaurants can be found all around UNESCO Street, Myeong-dong 8-gil Street, Quan Chen Ru Street and the other major streets of Myeong-dong. Between 5pm and 11 pm, the streets become even more livelier with street performances and street vendors.

- 3 - The beginning of arts and culture in 3. Myeongdong Theatre Myeong-dong

Designed by Ishibashi Ryosuke, Myeongdong Theater opened its doors for the first time in 1934 as a movie theater called “Meiji jwa.” After the independence of Korea, the name was changed to Sigongkwan and it became a venue for live performances.Beginning 1957, the theater served as the National Theatre. After the National Theater moved to Jangchung-dong, the building was sold to a finance company. With the commercialization of Myeong-dong, artists left the area and the buildings became office space. Myeongdong Theatre also lost its place as the center of the arts. The Theater was about to be torn down in the 1990s but locals and artists who still cared for the theater fought to save it. The Korean government purchased the building in 2003, and after undergoing renovations, it finally opened its doors once again as a theater in 2009. The Baroque-style exterior was preserved and only the interior was renovated. On the roof of the theatre is a dome-shaped glass structure that symbolizes the “light of culture.” The sunlight passing through the glass brings light and warmth to the audience. The seats are situated close to the stage, allowing the audience to get a closer look at the actors and performers.

- 4 - 4. Myeong-dong Cathedral The symbol of the Korean Catholic Church

Located on the highest hill in Myeong-dong, Myeong-dong Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Seoul. It became even more famous after the Pope’s visit in 2014. The Cathedral was designed by the French priest Father Coste, and constructed by Korean Catholic volunteers with the help of skilled bricklayers from the Qing Dynasty of China. The building was completed in 1898. It consists of a 45-meter-high (148 feet) bell tower, the main sanctuary, and an underground sanctuary. The bell is rung three times a day as a reminder for prayer time. The stained glass window of the chapel illuminates the gray brick columns and creates a serene and tranquil atmosphere. By the choir platform on the second floor is the first pipe organ to be installed in a Catholic church in Korea. Remains of the five saints and four martyrs are enshrined in the underground sanctuary. Behind the main chapel is a statue of the Virgin Mary, the Patroness of Korea and people’s guardian during the pro-democracy movement in the 1970s and 1980s.

- 5 - History of Korean postal services 5. Korea Postage Stamp Museum and postage stamps

Located on the basement level of the Korea Post Tower, the Korea Postage Stamp Museum displays all the postage stamps that have been printed in Korea, as well as stamps from around the world. Here, you can see the world’s first postage stamp, “Penny Black,” and Korea’s first postage stamp, “Moonwe Stamp.” In the exhibition room, you can see how Korean postmen and the postal services have changed over the years. Through the changes you can also see how the Korean society and culture have progressed. Unique stamps from around the world like vinyl record stamps, 3-dimensional stamps, hologram stamps, coded stamps, and many more can be seen at the museum. The cartoon character stamps section is very popular among kids. You can also make your very own stamp here.

- 6 - 6. Bank of Korea Money Museum Money and Humanity

Construction of this Renaissance-style building began in 1907. The building was originally intended to be used for The First National Bank of Japan. Halfway through the construction, the Bank of Joseon purchased the site. Construction was completed and the building was used as the head office of the Bank of Joseon from 1912 onwards. In 1945, the bank changed its name to the Bank of Korea. In 2000, it was renovated and reopened as the Bank of Korea Money Museum. The museum consists of two exhibition halls: one on the first floor and one on the second floor. The first floor takes you through the history of Korean currency and other currencies from around the world. You’ll also find ancient Japanese coins and a currency plate from China. If you have any Korean bills, try scanning them through the counterfeit detector to check whether your money is real or not. On the second floor, you will find a model of a vault. You can take pictures holding bags of money in front of the vault. There is also a digital money waterfall, in which you can put your hand to touch the money of the country you want to learn about. If you touch the money, the information corresponding to the country you chose will pop up on the screen. On the hallway of the second floor is a bench made of recycled money. If you sit on the bench, you’d be sitting on approximately 86 million won!

- 7 - 7. Namdaemun Market 600-year-old Traditional Market

In 1414, Joseon Dynasty’s King Taejong established a market in the Namdaemun area of the Seoul City Wall where circulation of goods and commodities was greatest. The government built shops around Namdaemun and rented out the shops to traders. Word spread very fast and soon enough, the market thrived with merchants and goods from around the nation. In the wake of the Korean War, items from American military bases including chocolates, army supplies, cameras, watches, and other imported goods began to circulate secretly in the market. Whenever officers would enter the market, traders would instantly pack up and disappear. Over a period of 40 years, the city of Seoul redeveloped and modernized the market little by little. New buildings were erected, and the Namdaemun Market you see today was completed in 2005. The Namdaemun Market houses over 10,000 shops that carry mostly children’s clothing, accessories, eye glasses and cameras. But with the increasing number of foreign tourists, shops selling traditional Korean goods like dried seaweed and ginseng have also increased. The back alleys lined with delicious eateries also attract plenty of visitors. Home-made noodle soup, braised cutlass fish, king-sized dumplings, and fried fish cakes are just a few of the mouthwatering dishes you’ll find here.

- 8 - Sungnyemun, the main gate of the 8. Sungnyemun Gate 600-year-old city of Hanyang

King Taejo of the Joseon Dynasty built a fortress wall encircling the entire capital city for protection and defense. The fortress wall had a gate on each side (north, south, east, and west). The south gate is officially called by the name Sungnyemun (meaning Gate of Exalted Ceremonies) even though it has been more commonly known as Namdaemun (literally the Great Southern Gate). Sungnyemun was the gate the king used during official processions, and it was also the gate through which goods and products from provinces entered the capital, hence becoming the main gate. Different from the other gates, Sungnyemun’s tablet has its name written vertically. King Taejo believed that a fire would reach Palace and the capital city as they faced Gwanaksan Mountain, which was shaped like the flames of a fire. Sungnyemun indicates fire, which is from the harmony of the five elements and if written vertically, the Chinese character looks like a fiercer fire that would provide protection. The bullet marks on the faded walls are scars from the fierce battle between Korea and Japan when armies were forced to disband in 1907. In 2008, the roof and the second level of the gate were destroyed in a big fire. After extensive research and construction, Sungnyemun has been restored to its near-original appearance.

- 9 - The old Seoul Train Station becomes 9. Culture Station Seoul 284 a cultural space

Seoul Station began operation in 1900 as a small train station and was originally called Namdaemun Station. Japan’s South Manchuria Railway Company wanted to use the station to gain a foothold on Manchuria, so in 1925, the station was renovated into a building with the same architectural style as Tokyo Station and renamed as Gyeongseong Station. After Korea’s liberation from Japan in 1945, Gyeongseong Station was renamed Seoul Station and became a meeting place for locals. With the completion of a new Seoul Station in 2004, the old Seoul Station was vacated. The project to restore the former Seoul Station and convert it into a cultural complex began in, 2008. The restoration project was known as “Culture Station Seoul 284,” reflecting the building’s designation as Historic Site No. 284. When you enter “Cultural Station Seoul 284,” you will see the Main Hall and the dome. On the ceiling, there is a stained glass depicting a traditional Korean dance symbolizing unity called Ganggangsullae. The second floor was once used as a barber shop and restroom when it was first built. Now, the space displays photos of the station before and during renovations.

- 10 - 10. Ahn Jung-Geun A Memorial Hall that commemorates Memorial Hall—Introduction the achievement of Ahn Jung-geun.

With the goal of colonizing Asia, Japan invaded Korea in 1909 and established an era of imperialism. In March of the same year, Ahn Jung-geun, along with 11 comrades, got together in Primorsky Krai, Russia and formed a secret group called Dongui Danjihoe, a secret society whose name roughly translates into the Society of Patriots. The members severed the top part of their left-hand ring finger to convey their loyalty and determination to the underground liberation movement. With his blood, Ahn wrote “Daehan Dongnip” (Korean Independence) on the Korean flag. In October 1909, Ahn assassinated Ito Hirobumi, a four-time Prime Minister of Japan and former Resident-General of Korea, at Harbin Station in China, shouting “Hurrah, Independence of Korea!” He was arrested on the spot and taken to a Japanese jail in Lushun, China. He was executed in 1910. The Memorial Hall was built to commemorate Ahn Jung-geun and his fellow Dongui Danjihoe members. The memorial hall is configured as a cluster of 12 columns that shoot up from the sunken base. The number 12 symbolizes the unsung heroes of Dongeui Danjihoe. The transparent column represents the patriotic sacrifice of Ahn Jung-geun. The memorial stones at the Memorial Hall were inscribed with writings of Ahn. In front of the Hall, you can see the statue of Ahn Jung-geun holding the Korean flag. On the way to the Memorial Hall there’s a black piece of granite with the inscription of one of Ahn’s writing.

- 11 - 11. Ahn Jung-Geun Memorial A look into the noble life of Hall—Exhibit Halls Ahn Jung-geun

In the Worship Hall, on the 1st basement level, there is a seated statue of Ahn wearing a white hanbok (traditional Korean clothes). Behind it hangs a large Korean flag with “Korean Independence” written in Ahn’s blood. Exhibition Hall 1 takes you through the life of Ahn beginning from his childhood to the social circumstances that shaped Ahn into the Korean independence activist that he was. Exhibition Hall 2 displays Ahn’s activities in and outside of Korea including the justice army and the Danjihoe. Exhibition Hall 3 contains materials related to the Harbin incident, and the autobiography which Ahn recorded during his imprisonment called “Ahn Eung-chil’s Life History”. Ahn Eung-chil was his childhood name. “On Peace in East Asia,” a book that Ahn wrote to encourage peace in the three Eastern countries (Korea, China and Japan) can also be found here. Although Ahn was only 31 years old when he died, his martyrdom inspired Korea’s strong will of independence against Japanese imperialism. His sacrifice must be remembered by today’s youth and by the future generations.

- 12 - 12. Namsan Bongsudae Bongsudae, Joseon’s System of Beacon Tower Communication

Located next to Palgakjeong Pavilion on Namsan Mountain, Bongsudae was used to send signals during the Joseon Dynasty. This communication facility sent out smoke in the daytime and fire at night to let people in the area know what was going on. One beacon was lit at normal times, two when an enemy appeared, three when an enemy approached the border, four when an enemy invaded the border and five beacons were lit when a battle with an enemy had begun at the border. In 1883, Percival Lowell, an American astronomer visiting Joseon, saw the torch of the Namsan Bongsudae and remarked that it looked like a light coming from another world. This news traveled around the nation and made it to the King at Gyeongbokgung Palace, from where the beacon can be clearly seen. The Bongsudae’s system of communication disappeared in 1895 when telegraphs and telephones were introduced in Korea. The tower you see today is a restored version. It was rebuilt in 1993 after careful study and research of maps from the Joseon era. Every day at noon, guards patrol the area and reenact the Beacon Fire Lighting Ceremony for tourists. When the last smoke is let out, which represents peace, you can take pictures with the Bongsudae guards.

- 13 - 13. Namsan Palgakjeong Pavilion on Namsan Mountain Palgakjeong Pavilion

Palgakjeong was built in 1968. Initially, Mokmyeoksinsa Shrine, which was built by King Taejo in 1395, used to sit here. So, the people of Joseon used to call Namsan Mokmyeoksan Mountain. King Taejo used to refer to the mountain god as Mokmyeok the Great and built Mokmyeoksinsa for rituals performed in the spring and fall. To protect this sacred mountain, he closed off the mountain to the public, and prohibited cutting trees or using the mountain as burial ground. But in the 1920s, Japan built botanical gardens and parks on the mountain and moved Mokmyeoksinsa to Inwangsan Mountain. Since 1945, Namsan has become a place for rest leisure. A pavilion was built to provide a sitting area for visitors and it was designed following an ancient Eastern philosophy that compares the world of the gods to a circle and the human world to squares, thereby creating an octagon in the center. This octagonal pavilion signifies a place between the world of the gods and the world of humans. At the square in front of the Palgakjeong is a water fountain. This place that offers peace and relaxation to tired hikers and locals amidst the hustle and bustle of the city life.

- 14 - 14. N Seoul Tower A Landmark of Seoul

Built in 1975, N Seoul Tower stands on top of Namsan Mountain. N Seoul Tower was originally a radio wave tower built to transmit TV and Radio waves. The tower was opened to the public in 1980, and it has since become one of Seoul’s most famous attractions. The tower measures 236 meters (774 feet) in height. If you add the height of Namsan Mountain, the tower stands at 479.7 meters (1573.8 feet) above ground. Take the high speed elevator to reach the observatory in just 30 seconds. The colorful video art on the ceiling of the elevator will make you feel like you walked into another world! The observatory has glass walls, giving you a 360o view of Seoul. On a clear day, you can see as far as Yongmunsan Mountain in Yangpyeong to the east, Hangang River and the Yellow Sea to the west, Namhansanseong Fortress to the south, and Songaksan Mountain in North Korea to the north. The restaurant above the observatory is famous among couples, and it completes a full 360o turn every 90 minutes. The outdoor observation platform, which is often featured in Korean dramas and shows, has hundreds of padlocks hanging on the fence. Countless visitors attach their locks here every day. You can also write your name and a lock and hang it here!

- 15 - 15. Seoul City Wall - A 600-year-old Fortress Wall Namsan Mountain Trail

The Seoul City Wall has lived through the 500 years of Joseon and it has survived until today. The Namsan trail is part of Zone 3, which runs from Gwanghuimun Gate to Namsan Mountain and all the way to Sungnyemun Gate. It is 5.2 km (3.2 mi) long and takes about 3 to 4 hours to finish. The wall was constructed in three phases, 1396, 1422 and 1704. You can tell when a section was built just by looking at the bricks. The bricks were inscribed with the village name from where the construction workers were from. So if a section of the wall collapsed, the village people who built that section would be responsible for rebuilding it. Between 1910 and 1950, many parts of the wall were destroyed due to the Japanese occupation and the Korean War. Major reconstruction took place from 1975 to 1981. As you walk along the Namsan area, you will find a hidden gate. This gate was built to secretly deliver army supplies and forces. During the Joseon era, there was an activity called “Excursions Along the Wall,” where people would walk along the wall and enjoy the scenery of Hanyang.

- 16 - 16. Namsangol Hanok Discovering the Joseon Lifestyle at a Village—Introduction Traditional Korean Village

Namsangol Hanok Village was created by bringing in five traditional Korean houses over a period of four years since 1933, and then landscaping traditional gardens around them. Three pavilions named Cheonugak, Gwaneojeong and Cheongnyujeong were also built for people to rest and enjoy the view. A traditional Korean music hall was also built so that visitors could listen to traditional music during their visit. This place used to be called “Cheonghakdong,” which literally translates to “blue-green crane,” referring to the beautiful green nature that surrounds the village. During the Joseon era, scholars and aristocrats would walk around the pavilions and houses while enjoying the beauty of nature. At the hanok village, you can experience the lifestyle of Joseon through the houses, the furniture, and everyday objects that represent the resident’s social class. On the stage behind Cheonugak Pavilion, traditional music, dance, and martial arts are performed frequently for visitors. At the traditional arts and craft hall, you can see various products made using traditional Korean crafts.

- 17 - 17. Namsangol Hanok A walk around a beautiful Village—Traditional Korean Houses Korean village

At Namsangol Hanok Village, you can see five traditional Korean houses, all different in structure depending on the purpose and the social status of the owner. Towards the end of the 19th Century, Korean society went through a big change due to corruption, Western cultural influence, and the rise of modern philosophy. The chaos caused traditions to disappear and the differences between classes started to blur. Items and features that would normally be seen in the houses of noblemen can be seen in the houses of commoners. For example, adobe bricks or railing on the maru, which is equivalent to today’s living room, are originally features of noblemen’s houses that can be seen in commoners’ houses. But features like the raised gate, the low chimney or the separate ritual room can only be seen in a nobleman’s house. These traditional houses offer various seasonal programs where you can experience traditional Korean culture first hand. You can go inside a hanok, try on the traditional Korean clothing called hanbok and take pictures, and you can also taste traditional teas and deserts. And on certain days, you can also see an actual traditional Korean wedding ceremony.

- 18 - 18. Jangchungdan Park A shrine built by Emperor Gojong

Park has great significance in Korean history. During the Eulmi incident of 1895, when Japanese forces invaded Gyeongbokgung Palace and assassinated Joseon’s Empress Myeongseong, the guards and servants who stood by the empress and protected her until the very end were also brutally killed. Emperor Gojong built a shrine called Jangchungdan to remember and comfort the souls of the dead. But in 1932, Japan destroyed Jangchungdan and in its place built Bakmunsa, a temple that commemorates Ito Hirobumi, who led the Korean invasion. Bakmunsa was eventually torn down in 1945. The inscription on Jangchungdan Monument, a symbol of Jangchungdan Park, was written by Emperor Sunjong, the last emperor of Korea, while he was the crown prince. There are also many relics related to Korean independence such as the Parijangseobi Monument. This monument was erected in memory of a petition for Korean independence sent to the 1919 Peace Conference in Paris during Korea’s March 1st Independence Movement. There is also a statue of Martyr Lee Jun, a Korean independence activist who was sent by Emperor Gojong as a secret envoy to the Hague in 1907. Supyogyo Bridge and a supyo, an instrument used to measure the water level during the Joseon Dynasty, were both located on Cheonggyecheon Stream in Jongno. But when restoration of the Cheonggyecheon Stream began, they were both moved to this park. If you walk under the bridge, you can have a better look of the granite stones used to build the bridge.

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