INSIDE: Converted Tuna Factory Hotel 3 Painted Donkey Carts 5 Edible Souvenirs 6 Sicily Through Its Symbols 8 y t t e

Donnafugata Golf Resort G SPECIAL REPORT: HIGHLIGHTS OF SICILY Maria Grammatico Portraits of Sicily: Three Natives and dream of ® Their Stories From Cloister to Cookies etting to the medieval walled G town of Erice is easiest and most picturesque via the globe-shaped Volume 14, Issue 6 www.dreamofitaly.com August 2015 ITA LY funiculari that leave every 10 minutes from the top of Trapani. As the pods rise, they offer vistas that distinguish Five Unique Places that city from its Sicilian fellows—the meeting of the Mediterranean and Tyhrrenian Seas, the city’s well- to Stay in Sicily preserved naval ramparts, and the wide white swathes of the salt flats f you have preconceived and more of Provence, Wales—and that produce some of the most notions about Sicily, you’re not even Northern California. delicate seasoning in the world. I alone—and we’re not talking about stereotypes of Mafia activity or Those fortunate enough to visit But once the funicular stops at the country tables laden with different parts of Sicily will foot of the snail-shaped road winding food. We’re talking about the understand both how up to Erice, the eye is drawn up to actual land and contours. geography affected its many- the town’s gray brick towers and Many people, including some layered history (first settled arched gate. The gate opens onto of the most sophisticated by the ancient Greeks, it has cobbled streets full of nooks and travelers around, believe that also been called home by the crannies that only occur when this island, just at the toe of Romans, the Byzantines, the inhabitants know they can’t build out Italy’s boot, consists mostly Normans and, finally, the or up and have to make the most of of flat, arid terrain. modern Italian nation) and what they have. how that geography can Maybe it’s the abundance of vary in just a short distance. Making the most of what was Duca di Castelmonte cacti and yucca, maybe it’s One minute you’re available applies to Maria Grammatico, the reports of strong sun (Sicily is glimpsing a sleepy hillside town, the a lifelong resident of Erice who, at closer to the Equator than almost next a valley with row upon row of age 75, still presides over the pastry anywhere else in Europe), but the truth cultivated fruit trees, the next a lively shop bearing her name. Her eyes are is, Sicily’s gorgeous coast and verdant urban vista. partly blurred by thick bifocals, but hills will remind visitors less of desert continued on page 2 continued on page 4 Sicily is the clue to everything. —Goethe Where to Stay continued from page 1

Sicily contains many geographical Sicilian Stock Exchange ( Borsa ). Scores rooms and suites decorated with quiet, surprises in its tourist lodgings, too. of merchants, bankers, and other modern elegance and comfort, many You could also take to Sicily’s business owners would convene over offering small balconies overlooking highways (be patient; there are a few cigars and good bottles of wine to the central courtyard. glitches in the region’s infrastructure) discuss deals. and try one of the following five very All meals can be different ways to stay in Sicily and add In the hotel’s upstairs bar taken in the to your experience through your and meeting rooms you rooftop garden accommodation. can see some beautiful restaurant, but paintings, commissioned the breakfast Historic Elegance in Palermo by those men, that buffet is represent Sicily’s most particularly Gaze down from the second floor onto important symbols and tempting and what is now the main lobby of natural resources. You includes fresh Palermo’s Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa, and can also see some local ricotta, you can almost imagine monks passing typically 19th-century Sicilian cannoli, cakes and serenely through its arches: From the chairs and sofas upholstered in cornetti, as well as the 16th to the 19th centuries, a Roman a striking floral silk also made usual cereals, yogurts,

5 Catholic order, the Mercederian in Sicily. The same furniture fruits, eggs and items to

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2 Fathers, maintained their main Sicilian maker sold many similar pieces toast.

t s residence in this cloister. to a famous client—the interior v u g

u designer of the Titanic. Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa A Look out again, and think about how Via dei Cartari, 18 Palermo 2 the same space might have appeared Given its previous incarnation, in the late 19th and early 20th it’s not surprising that the (39) 091 320075 www.piazzaborsa.it m centuries, when it functioned as the grand hotel is set behind the o

c Rates: From 126€ for a single to .

y Bank of Sicily, just steps from l

a 813 € for the “Regina Costanza” t

i the Via Vittorio Emmanuele. Hotel Piazza Borsa f o Those few steps mean that the suite with breakfast. m a e

r hotel itself is fairly quiet for such a Seaside Tranquility in Trapani d .

w central location. Hallways are wide

w Sicily

w and cool, leading to Let’s do some guided imagery: You’re sitting on a wrought-iron terrace, Erice Bonagio gazing at the Mediterranean. Feel the warm sun, the cool breezes from the Trapani Castellamare Palermo Cefalu sea; smell the salt water and the citrus Xitta in Golfo Taormina trees scattered around your resort environs. See the smooth yellow stone Marsala of the wall behind you and the gorgeous silk drapes that allow you to Catania shut out the light when you’re ready for a long siesta.

Agrigento Are you there yet? If so, stay serene Falconara Siracusa when you realize that your new favorite place is a converted tuna Ragusa Ibla factory, two words that don’t normally Donnafugata inspire that relaxed, vacation vibe. Trapani’s newest, and unique, resort, Hotel La Tonnara di Bonnagia, is on the Teatro Massimo in Palermo is road to the stunning hilltop medieval Rustic Charm in Xitta these foods through regular cooking town of Erice, and feels similarly classes. Every Thursday night is “ pizza removed from time. You may know a great deal about and ricotta night,” when everyone joins Italy’s agriturismi, farms that offer in even if they haven’t signed up for a The building itself was constructed in dining, accommodations, and a peek class. A pristine blue pool is the 17th century, so surrounded by olive don’t let any modern trees, several acres of ideas of “factory” garden walks and tennis cloud your view—this courts, all centered on the tonnara features thick colorful and charming walls, a turreted tower, farmhouse and inn. and lots of arched gateways, more like a Rooms and suites are seaside chateau than simple; think “shabby anything industrial. Hotel La Tonnara Hotel La Tonnara chic,” but impeccably clean and furnished with Trapani is well known for its salt flats, into agricultural life, but you may not everything you need for a laid-back which also border thousands of acres have stayed at one of Sicily’s baglio, or week or few days in the Sicilian sun.

of marine-life reserve, making the traditional farmsteads. In Xitta, en Photographs, tools and collectibles line 5 1 0

Hotel La Tonnara unusually quiet, a route to Agrigento (famous for the the walls and enhance the feeling that 2

t perfect place for romance, retreat, or Valley of Temples), the Curatolo family s continued on page 10 u g

even rejuvenation—skip the operates the Duca di Castelmonte u “Wellbeing Oasis” and just hang out at Agriturismo out of the baglio they have A the gorgeous pool, which may be this owned since the early 19th century. dream of 3 hotel’s best feature, with fantastic ®

views of Monte Cofano and a path to Step through the cool, old-fashioned m o c .

the clear sea waters, where guests can dining room/restaurant into the sunny y ITALY l a

Kathleen A. McCabe t

go snorkeling with equipment on loan courtyard and you may find the family i Editor in Chief and Publisher f from the front desk. matriarch leaning over a wrought-iron o m a e balcony, her snow-white hair perfectly Executive Editor: Bethanne Patrick r d Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe .

However, don’t expect luxury. The coiffed and her black-cotton dress w

Design: Kim Leaird w

dining room is lovely and food is perfectly starched. She gazes down as w www.leaird-designs.com adequate, but not resort level. Rooms her son “ Toto, ” or Alfonso, explains the are also adequate—furnished with ricotta-making process. Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a spare pieces, and not at all fancy. The year. Delivery by mail is $87 in the U.S., Canada and location is also well removed from Fresh ricotta is not actually a cheese; its abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $77 per year. Subscriptions include online access to Trapani center, so unless you have a official description in Italian is latticio, more than 125 back issues and regular e-mail updates. car, you’ll be hard pressed to find or “milk product.” It’s made from Three ways to subscribe: other dining and entertainment whey, and the reason this is important 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, Denver, CO 80201 options. The Hotel La Tonnara isn’t for is that the best farms and organic food 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-297-3708 the busy sightseer; it’s for the quiet producers have understood for 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, nature- and history-lover looking for thousands of years that using Mastercard and American Express accepted) time to walk, swim and think. everything is economical—and can be Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] delicious. Hotel La Tonnara di Bonagio Resort Advertising opportunities are available. E-mail: [email protected] Piazza Tonnara Bonagia Toto Curatolo and his family are rightly Copyright © 2015 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights Valderice proud of their baglio’s products, which Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - (39) 0923 431111 include olive oil, cheeses and caponata mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide v information that is accurate and reliable; however, www.tonnaradibonagia.it from their eggplant crop. Guests can Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that Rates: Start at 125€ per night for a double and can take part in various stages of making may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com go up to 678€ for a suite. Breakfast is included. s Italy’s largest opera house. Portraits of Sicily continued from page 1

you can still see their twinkle as she pastry and eyes close as groans of two-week trip sponsored by her son, wraps beautiful assortment boxes of pleasure prove that these old- Jehr Schiavo. Now an internationally the almond-based cakes, cookies and fashioned baked goods have 21st- known hair stylist, Jehr is also a confections that her bakery is justly century staying power. No wonder the devoted son, and wanted his mother to famous for around the world. nuns preferred to keep the sugary see the entire island, as well as spend a secrets of their preparation to few days in the town that meant so But it’s not just her use of themselves! much to her own mother. local almonds that show Grammatico’s canny use of Fortunately, there’s no worry Jehr visited several times on his own, resources. As her popular that Grammatico will do but didn’t return until a few years after memoir Bitter Almonds something similar. She meeting and marrying his wife Jeanette explains, when she was 11 employs quite a few younger in 2003. Their first visit as the famiglia her mother sent her to be family members and Erice di Schiavo was in 2007, when their m

raised in a local convent o residents who plan to keep daughter LouLou turned three. c . r k c

because there wasn’t enough i her bakery going for a long Although after her fourth summer in l f

, t food in post-World-War-II s time to come. Maria Castellammare they took a break, they o b l a i

Italy to feed their entire v Grammatico was given have returned for her 9th, 10th, 11th family. From 1951 to 1963, Pasticceria Grammatico almonds in bitterness, but and 12th birthdays, so often now that

5 Grammatico was raised by, she’s turned them into a very LouLou Schiavo considers 1

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2 and then worked for, the nuns. The sweet legacy. Castellemmare a second home.

t v s

order was well known for px roducing u x g x

u sweet, fancy treats for sale to wealthy Pasticceria Maria Grammatico And why shouldn’t she? Her A families and for grand occasions. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 14 grandmother grew up on that town’s Erice 4 Via Ferrantelli and attended the Chiesa Although the techniques were (39) 0923 869390 di San Guiseppe, speaking the region’s www.mariagrammatico.it m supposed to be the province of the dialect. Jehr Schiavo now speaks some o c .

y nuns, Grammatico was a quick learner Italian, but not his mother’s Sicilian; he l a t

i with a superb memory. She paid A New Chapter in A says it sounds so familiar still, “the f o attention to the supplies and methods way an old song can be remembered.” m a e

r needed to turn out trays of almond- Family History d .

w paste cookies or feather-light, custard- Schiavo believes w

w filled Genovese. When she left the In 1917, Anna D’Angelo Castellammare today convent at 26, the nuns allowed her to and her three eldest looks like La Jolla might keep only a small amount of almonds children left have appeared two and a tiny stove. She began to practice Castellammare del Golfo hundred years ago, its and refine the recipes she’d memorized for New York City, rugged coastline scattered to her own exacting standards. where Anna’s husband with sandy beaches, and had emigrated a year cacti popping up from the Today the bakery produces over two before. Although he gold and green hillsides. dozen varieties of pasticcini, as well as would eventually prove The entire family loves to jams and preserves from Grammatico’s unstable, the couple had Jeanette, LouLou and Jehr Schiavo feast on sfincione, a sort of own recipes. All are made from local six more children. Jean, open-faced pizza covered ingredients: Almonds from Avola, milk born in 1924 in Detroit, was the last with sardines; calamari totani; toasted from nearby dairies, and organically and most doted on, growing up sesame-seed cookies, the enormous grown fruits. hearing her mother’s tales of the local capers, and much more. beautiful seaside Sicilian town of the In the shady garden behind the family’s roots. After the requisite daily stop at the Grammatico’s tiny shop, visitors from market (Schiavo reminisces fondly of all over the world sit and sample treats However, it wasn’t until Jean’s 70th “fresh baked bread with nutmeg from on fluted paper trays. One bite of a birthday that she was able to visit, on a Domingo Panificio’s coal oven”), they Sicily is the largest island feast on local fruits, from baby pears to Bertolino is a fifth-generation white peaches to cherries and figs. His Wheels cart painter. Five generations! After a morning at the seaside, they That covers more than a return to a lunch, usually heavy on Keep on century of events that have more produce from the frutte e verdure brought modernity to an stalls. An afternoon siesta is followed Turning island suspicious of change—

by a snack of fruit, and then a few s which explains the various i b r hours of work for everyone (LouLou Imagine a culture o scooters and motos that C has been homeschooled for many without books, Franco Bertolino Bertolino also paints with years). newspapers, or text- intricate traditional designs. based signs. How would you The main colors used were once This year, the Schiavo family switched remember important dates in history, yellow and red, Sicilian colors, but things up a bit and spent a few weeks learn about current events, or know today anything in the rainbow will do on the island Lampedusa. “I always whom to call when for the best as Bertolino festoons pieces with thought Sicily felt rustic, but groceries? flowers, repeating patterns, scenes of Lampedusa gives rough around the festivals, and even mythology. edges new meaning,” says Jehr In Sicily for hundreds of years, most of Schiavo. “However, Rabbit Beach there the population was illiterate—just like The writer John Keahey made

is in a class of its own when it comes to most of the population elsewhere. But Bertolino famous in his 2011 book 5 1 0

beaches—beyond stunning, if there clever business owners realized that by Seeking Sicily, devoting an entire 2

t could be such a thing.” painting symbols and figures on the chapter to the cart-painting workshop. s u g

vehicles they used could help them Bertolino shared an anecdote with him u Schiavo says that the Sicilian landscape attract customers, who would then about how, when he was a little boy, A continues seeping into recognize them again he and his friends would torment cart 5 him, from water to and again. These drivers by hanging on to the backs of

mountains to people, owners were the first the carts and shouting insults. m o c .

including their adoration donkey-cart painters. y l a t

over children. And his When his father found out about this, i f greatest inspiration for Today, gaily he beat his son with an umbrella and o m m a o e c . r

his signature “Jehrcut” r decorated donkey made him sit and watch father and k d c . i l f

may have come directly carts virtually grandfather in their workshop. “My w , 5 w 1 c i

from Sicily, too: His represent Sicily for father told me ‘Learn the craft while w v Uncle Tony, one of the Bertolino’s Studio thousands of tourists, you are sitting there,’” Bertolino told three D’Angelo children who snap endless Keahey. “So I did.” born in Castellammare, had a rule for photos of the wooden conveyances packing: “Lay everything out on the and buy souvenir versions from Now in his 50s, Bertolino’s face and bed that you’d like to take. When you miniature to huge. While other people thoughts contain many generations of think you’re done, put half away, and consider the carts a symbol of history, sadness at what will soon be lost. Very pack the rest.” Schiavo says he was there’s one man who still considers few painted carts are still in active use; right, and that the rule applies as much them his life’s work. most are brought out only for festivals to fashion and beauty as it does to and parades, and those grow fewer travel. Franco Bertolino is the last donkey-cart every year as well. Sometimes people painter in Sicily. In his studio on Salita bring a family collection out for an Domingo Panificio Rabbit Beach Ramirez behind the cathedral, he plies exhibition, but there are fewer and Piazza Europa, 12 Via Ponente his trade and paintbrush with fewer carretieri, or cart drivers, too. Castellammare del Golfo Lampedusa devotion, knowing that while no one (39) 0924 082254 (39) 0922 975901 else may continue with that same Franco Bertolino devotion, the carts he finishes will be Salita Artale, 8 important reminders of Sicily’s not-so- Karrenbemaler long-ago daily life. Palermo v (39) 347 0576923 in the Mediterranean Sea. Edible Souvenirs: Bringing

friend who grew up in a Some years after broom and thistle — bet, when in Sicily, is to head to home with two Sicilian the soil nurtures apple and chestnut Castelbuono and find “The Manna parents (both had emigrated trees — the chestnut honey is a Man,” Giulio Gelardi. A to the USA in the 1950s) particular delicacy. Deep brown and www.facebook.com/MannaGelardi recalls that every meal was a groaning deeply flavored, it’s wonderful on board of food, from yogurt or ice cream. Citron or Etrog antipasti to primi to Bonus: In the village of contorni to secondi to Zafferana Etnea you can Imagine a lemon. Now, imagine that dolci. That might have find a museum lemon has skin as thick as its inner stemmed, for many dedicated to pulp. You’re pretty close to knowing Sicilian-Americans, beekeeping. what a Sicilian etrog, or citron fruit, from the post-war looks like. You won’t be able to scarcity of food at To buy: Chestnut smuggle one past customs, but don’t home. However, it honey is readily fret: The two best ways to enjoy the must also have Chestnut honey available in Sicilian citron are great souvenirs. The first is

5 something to do with gourmet and gift shops. to buy some candied rind, known in 1 0

2 the amazing variety of natural Don’t neglect the other types of Sicilian Sicily as succade.

t s resources available in Sicily, from vines honey, because there are many, u g

u drooping with grape clusters to trees including cactus, dill, honeysuckle and The second is to A crowded with almonds to seas teeming thistle. seek out one of the 6 with fish. many fresh and Manna Eletta, or Ash-Tree Sap light colognes and h

m Forget the ceramics and wood perfumes carrying the o c .

y carvings; the best souvenirs of Sicily You may be familiar with the phrase ancient fruit’s oils. While we don’t l a t

i are not just edible, but locally grown. “manna from heaven,” meaning recommend trying to bring back fresh f o Here are a few of the most delectable delicious sustenance provided by a citron ( cedro in Sicily), if you do m a e

r items available that you can easily cart creator—but in Sicily, manna is a real manage to stash one or two in your d .

w home—since they’re not fresh food, foodstuff, a sweetener that is harvested suitcase, try using it in a salad. w

w customs won’t slap you on the wrist. from the ash tree. The narrow-leaf ash The bonus is that these are also things produces this low-glucose substance in To buy: Candied citrus rind can be that will keep for a while and allow the Madonie Mountains, and although it found in many Sicilian gift shops and you happy memories of your trip each originates as syrup, like maple syrup supermarkets. It’s often the final time you open a bottle, jar or tin. in North America, instead of being ingredient in traditional cannoli, too. tapped, it is allowed to run out of holes Mount Etna Chestnut Honey in the bark and to harden in the sun (it Marsala Wine never touches the bark itself). The cool, dry air of Mount Etna fosters You aren’t wrong if you’re planning to new growth, although it does take 700 The pale result is cut into short lengths buy a bottle of Sicilian marsala so that years for volcanic lava to produce that for sale. Its health properties are much your aunt can make your favorite growth. The broom plant, with its touted by Sicilians, who claim it cures chicken dish—you’re just not well- many flowers, is the first to appear— everything from constipation to acquainted enough with this historied and it attracts honeybees. There are diabetes, but the truth is that it just tipple, which is technically a fortified several apiaries around Etna, often tastes good—like a cross between beverage as it’s made by adding appearing to be piles of colorful maple-sugar candy and mild honey. brandy to wine. The process, called in wooden boxes—get a little closer, and perpetuum or solara, involves drawing you’ll hear the buzz. To buy: It isn’t easy to find manna, but wine from some casks and adding it to some pharmacies stock it. Your best others at regular intervals until the `Sicily is sometimes nic k

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www.dreamofitaly.com 7 August 2015

Sicily Through Its oday Sicily is officially part of Italy—but don’t try to tell Sicilians that they are the same as Italians. The island has a long, rich history and a deep, complex culture that has many ties to the T mainland, but remains separate and distinctive even in the 21st century. Although after the Italian Unification in 1860 some differences were downplayed, the post-World-War-II autonomous regional status granted to Sicily encouraged Sicilians to once again fly their flag. fF On that flag is the Sicilian trinacria, a symbol we’ll describe further in a moment. The thing to note here is that Sicily’s character can be seen in its colorful, storied symbols, each one representing history, culture and resources.

The Trinacria of the three-legged motif, no one has different from other cultures adoring precise answers. We do know that the statues of chickens, pigs or even wax Sometimes known as the triskelion, this Spartans used a three-legged circular fruit. pictograph consists of a head of symbol on their battle shields to Medusa, the mythological gorgon represent strength, and we also know

5 representing excellence, with hair that the motif has been adopted and 1 0

2 made out of snakes; three ears of adapted by other cultures, from the

t s wheat, or corn to represent fertility; Manx (the Normans brought it to them u g

u and three legs, each bent at the knee, in from Sicily), the Danish and the Celtic A a pattern suggesting rotation and peoples. 8 circularity. Visitors will find the trinacria sculpted

m in stone, baked in ceramics, molded Fish is the mainstay of an island o c .

y out of dough, carved from wood, and community like Sicily. Fresh sardines, l a t

i stitched on silk. completely unlike the canned varieties f o you might be used to in this country, m a e

r The Fish abound, and are served fried, baked, d .

w broiled, stuffed, you name it; squid w

w Truly Sicily’s most representative fish and octopus also show up prepared in would be the sarduzza or nunnata, many delicious ways—but don’t forget depending on which dialect you seafood, from shrimp to clams and In Sicily, those three legs are meant to favor—in English, that’s just plain old more, or ocean catch like swordfish, represent the three points of the “whitebait,” meaning the immature sea bream, and grouper, all tasting island’s triangle; even the ancient versions of sardines and anchovies. better than you’ve ever imagined this Greek poet Homer referred to Sicily While the older fish are eaten, too, and protein could. with the word thrinakie, meaning three- in preparations so numerous you peaked. Those three points consist of could have nothing else every day on The popular Italian “Feast of the Seven three large capes equidistant from each your Sicilian vacation without being Fishes” Christmas Eve tradition may other, pointing in their respective bored, the “small fry” are considered a have originated in Sicily, although no directions, the names of which were great delicacy because they can be one is really sure exactly how many Pelorus, Pachynus and Lilybaeum. In eaten whole. fish dishes should be consumed (some fact, Sicily probably received the say six, some seven, some even go up trinacria from the ancient Greeks, There’s even a special Sicilian dish to 13 for Jesus Christ and his apostles). specifically from Crete. called polpetti di neonata that is a kind There’s no danger that in Sicily there of whitebait meatball. While Sicilians won’t be a good selection of different Although there are many historical love eating the sarduzza, they also love types. guesses about the origin and meaning making representations of it, no There are seven UNESCO Symbols

The Fruits foodies know from the San Pellegrino these structures shows that deep down soda that highlights its bittersweet, they understand the part they played It would be tough to choose just one nearly cola-like flavor. Chinotto fruit is in the island’s past. fruit to represent Sicily. In another usually smaller, rounder, and slightly article in this month’s issue, we mention lumpier than a clementine. The Volcano citron, mulberries, olives, almonds, and grapes—but what about the India fig, The Towers Mount Etna is probably the best-known the prickly pear, the chinotto, the orange, symbol of Sicily—and one of its most and the peaches grown on the slopes of Sicily’s coastline is full of towers, potent symbols, too. The active Etna that cannot be replicated whether they’re structures built as a stratovolcano (meaning a volcano anywhere else in the world? made of alternating layers of lava and ash, which gives them their unique Ripe, sweet fruit is a nearly universal cone shape) is called Muncibeddu human symbol of abundance, and (“beautiful mountain”) in local dialect Sicily’s green, green valleys crammed and considered a living, breathing with orchard trees in neat rows, the organism.

healthiest grapevines you’ll ever see, 5 1 0

and hothouses nurturing citrus 2

t provide so many varieties of fruit that s u g

it’s surprising the cornucopia symbol kind of early-warning system against u didn’t start there. pirates, parts of castles, or integrated A into churches and fortress walls. Early 9 settlers, including the Phoenicians,

built some; Romans added on; Arabs m o c .

built others; Normans constructed in y l a t

their own style; and the Bourbons did The largest active volcano in Europe, i f the same. currently standing about 10,910 feet o m a e

makes it by far the largest of the three r d .

Sometimes a single building has active volcanoes in Italy, being nearly w w

towers from more than one of these three times the height of the next w Many of the fruits came to the island eras, all of them showing how difficult largest, Mount Vesuvius. Mount Etna is from other places, an excellent it is to defend a place with three points one of the most active volcanoes in the reminder of the historical layers in sitting in the middle of two seas and world and is in an almost constant Sicily’s past—but even if some oranges readily accessible to three continents. state of eruption. The most recent was come from Valencia, the Sicilian sun Today, towers look quaint and in 2007. and soil make the oranges grown there romantic, but for centuries they were absolutely unforgettable. On one hand, the only way whoever was in charge of Although Etna has never wreaked the poverty and infrastructure mean that a particular Sicilian town could fend kind of sudden havoc that Vesuvius many Sicilians eat locally whether they off a new wave of invaders. did on Pompeii, its fitful slumbers mean want to or not; on the other hand, the that seismologists never know exactly superb produce means that when they Towers also provided pre-aeronautics how its next eruption will transpire. do eat locally, they’re eating better than Sicily with a means of surveying large But what the volcano threatens—and we who dine on imported melons. amounts of coastline and farmland, sometimes takes away, as it did in the which is why fortresses at places like historic 1669 eruption—it also gives Be sure to try the tabaccheria peaches, Erice and Cefalu were so well back. Wine made from Etna-cultivated often called “donut peaches” here, as maintained. While modern Sicilians vines has intense minerality and well as the lesser-known citrus fruits, may play up the quaint and romantic acidity, completely different from other including the chinotto, which some factors of their towers, their pride in Sicilian whites and reds. World Heritage sites on Sicily. Where to Stay continued from page 3

you’re part of the family for the time serious students’ (there are several of Dream of Italy ); at the winery itself, you’re there. courses offered for chefs in training, numerous photos of owner José Rallo, including a four-month stage ) labors at her husband, children and Duca di Castelmonte the Ristorante Cenobio on site. grandchildren grace the walls. The Via Salvatore Motisi, 3 Rallos are transforming how Sicilian Trapani But there’s more to this school, of wine is marketed and with this new (39) 0923 526139 v historical interest: It may be the only resort, they’re also changing the way www.ducadicastelmonte.it culinary school created by episcopal Sicily is marketed for destination Rates: In high season, a night with breakfast only decree. The Bishop of Ragusa deeded events and conferences. starts at 50€ per person and with half-board, it is the school section of the convent in his 73€. Dinner alone costs 25€ per person. will to the city of Ragusa on the Set on a gentle hill in Torre di Piombo, Utter Simplicity in Ragusa condition that it be used to keep the the Donnafugata Golf Resort and Spa has beautiful 17th-century building in everything any resort aficionado could After a devastating 1693 earthquake, active use, and that it also keep a sort want, from a trendy yet elegant lobby Ragusa divided into the Upper Town, of “Mediterranean dialogue” open that that’s a great spot for evening and Ragusa Ibla, reached by winding is central to the hearts of Ragusa’s cocktails, to a plush spa featuring some roads or stairways. people and of the most gorgeous treatment rooms It’s not the easiest surroundings. on the planet, to villas that will allow

5 place in Sicily to visit couples, families or groups of 1

0 Hotel Antico Convento

2 or the most famous, girlfriends to relax together in spacious

t Giardino Ibleo s but for fans of history comfort. u

g V.le Margherita, 41 u and architecture it A holds many jewels, Ragusa Ibla Options for meals help, too; anyone (39) 347 1472915 10 especially its over-the- who has ever visited a resort knows top Baroque www.anticoconventoibla.it that there can be dining-room fatigue. Ragusa Ibla Rates: From 74€ for a sin - m cathedral, the Duomo At Donnafugata, there’s a beautiful o

c gle room with breakfast. .

y di San Giorgio. stone dining room for breakfast, a l a t

i Pastoral Luxury at Donnafugata sunny Clubhouse with terrace for f o Across town, through a beautiful lunch, a hip wine bar for light meals, m a e

r public garden, lies a hotel that might In what might be the ultimate and Il Carrubo, a restaurant specializing d .

w not satisfy travelers in search of rococo indulgence, the Duc d’Arezzo’s spare in local Ragusan recipes, for dinner. w

w indulgence. However, the Hotel Antico Renaissance villa remains a private Convento made from the old Capuchin residence in the middle of Sicily’s most A number of conversation lounges, a monastery has severely gorgeous gorgeous and sophisticated resort. media room, a game room including appointments. Even if your room When the Donnafugata wine family backgammon and chess tables, and doesn’t have much in it beyond a bed bought the acres from the Arezzos, they several other public areas ensure that and a chair, your linens are exquisite went along with family or friendship and your views of the Val di Noto that these provisos, groups will be able to find surrounds Ragusa unparalleled. and good for quiet time away from them: The land their suites. If you still crave a little activity after a and location day or two visiting the 18 UNESCO would be worth Donnafugata Golf Resort Heritage Sites in the towns, the hotel giving the and Spa complex has a cooking academy, nobleman his Contrada Piombo

Scuola Nosco, where guests can learn own private pool Ragusa

the secrets of Sicilian and Ragusan if he so (39) 0932 914200 Donnafugata Golf Resort v cuisine, including baking, pasta demanded. www.donnafugatatagolfresort.com making and seafood recipes. However, Rates: Standard doubles from many people may prefer to simply sit The Donnafugata Winery is a family- 250€ per night, including back and enjoy the fruits of the more owned business (read more about the breakfast. vineyard in the November 2006 issue 1€ = $1.11 at press time Sicily is home to hundreds of castles.