INSIDE: Converted Tuna Factory Hotel 3 Painted Donkey Carts 5 Edible Souvenirs 6 Sicily Through Its Symbols 8 y t t e Donnafugata Golf Resort G SPECIAL REPORT: HIGHLIGHTS OF SICILY Maria Grammatico Portraits of Sicily: Three Natives and dream of ® Their Stories From Cloister to Cookies etting to the medieval walled G town of Erice is easiest and most picturesque via the globe-shaped Volume 14, Issue 6 www.dreamofitaly.com August 2015 ITA LY funiculari that leave every 10 minutes from the top of Trapani. As the pods rise, they offer vistas that distinguish Five Unique Places that city from its Sicilian fellows—the meeting of the Mediterranean and Tyhrrenian Seas, the city’s well- to Stay in Sicily preserved naval ramparts, and the wide white swathes of the salt flats f you have preconceived and more of Provence, Wales—and that produce some of the most notions about Sicily, you’re not even Northern California. delicate seasoning in the world. I alone—and we’re not talking about stereotypes of Mafia activity or Those fortunate enough to visit But once the funicular stops at the country tables laden with different parts of Sicily will foot of the snail-shaped road winding food. We’re talking about the understand both how up to Erice, the eye is drawn up to actual land and contours. geography affected its many- the town’s gray brick towers and Many people, including some layered history (first settled arched gate. The gate opens onto of the most sophisticated by the ancient Greeks, it has cobbled streets full of nooks and travelers around, believe that also been called home by the crannies that only occur when this island, just at the toe of Romans, the Byzantines, the inhabitants know they can’t build out Italy’s boot, consists mostly Normans and, finally, the or up and have to make the most of of flat, arid terrain. modern Italian nation) and what they have. how that geography can Maybe it’s the abundance of vary in just a short distance. Making the most of what was Duca di Castelmonte cacti and yucca, maybe it’s One minute you’re available applies to Maria Grammatico, the reports of strong sun (Sicily is glimpsing a sleepy hillside town, the a lifelong resident of Erice who, at closer to the Equator than almost next a valley with row upon row of age 75, still presides over the pastry anywhere else in Europe), but the truth cultivated fruit trees, the next a lively shop bearing her name. Her eyes are is, Sicily’s gorgeous coast and verdant urban vista. partly blurred by thick bifocals, but hills will remind visitors less of desert continued on page 2 continued on page 4 Sicily is the clue to everything. —Goethe Where to Stay continued from page 1 Sicily contains many geographical Sicilian Stock Exchange ( Borsa ). Scores rooms and suites decorated with quiet, surprises in its tourist lodgings, too. of merchants, bankers, and other modern elegance and comfort, many You could also take to Sicily’s business owners would convene over offering small balconies overlooking highways (be patient; there are a few cigars and good bottles of wine to the central courtyard. glitches in the region’s infrastructure) discuss deals. and try one of the following five very All meals can be different ways to stay in Sicily and add In the hotel’s upstairs bar taken in the to your experience through your and meeting rooms you rooftop garden accommodation. can see some beautiful restaurant, but paintings, commissioned the breakfast Historic Elegance in Palermo by those men, that buffet is represent Sicily’s most particularly Gaze down from the second floor onto important symbols and tempting and what is now the main lobby of natural resources. You includes fresh Palermo’s Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa, and can also see some local ricotta, you can almost imagine monks passing typically 19th-century Sicilian cannoli, cakes and serenely through its arches: From the chairs and sofas upholstered in cornetti, as well as the 16th to the 19th centuries, a Roman a striking floral silk also made usual cereals, yogurts, 5 Catholic order, the Mercederian in Sicily. The same furniture fruits, eggs and items to 1 0 2 Fathers, maintained their main Sicilian maker sold many similar pieces toast. t s residence in this cloister. to a famous client—the interior v u g u designer of the Titanic. Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa A Look out again, and think about how Via dei Cartari, 18 Palermo 2 the same space might have appeared Given its previous incarnation, in the late 19th and early 20th it’s not surprising that the (39) 091 320075 www.piazzaborsa.it m centuries, when it functioned as the grand hotel is set behind the o c Rates: From 126€ for a single to . y Bank of Sicily, just steps from l a 813 € for the “Regina Costanza” t i the Via Vittorio Emmanuele. Hotel Piazza Borsa f o Those few steps mean that the suite with breakfast. m a e r hotel itself is fairly quiet for such a Seaside Tranquility in Trapani d . w central location. Hallways are wide w Sicily w and cool, leading to Let’s do some guided imagery: You’re sitting on a wrought-iron terrace, Erice Bonagio gazing at the Mediterranean. Feel the warm sun, the cool breezes from the Trapani Castellamare Palermo Cefalu sea; smell the salt water and the citrus Xitta in Golfo Taormina trees scattered around your resort environs. See the smooth yellow stone Marsala of the wall behind you and the gorgeous silk drapes that allow you to Catania shut out the light when you’re ready for a long siesta. Agrigento Are you there yet? If so, stay serene Falconara Siracusa when you realize that your new favorite place is a converted tuna Ragusa Ibla factory, two words that don’t normally Donnafugata inspire that relaxed, vacation vibe. Trapani’s newest, and unique, resort, Hotel La Tonnara di Bonnagia, is on the Teatro Massimo in Palermo is road to the stunning hilltop medieval Rustic Charm in Xitta these foods through regular cooking town of Erice, and feels similarly classes. Every Thursday night is “ pizza removed from time. You may know a great deal about and ricotta night,” when everyone joins Italy’s agriturismi, farms that offer in even if they haven’t signed up for a The building itself was constructed in dining, accommodations, and a peek class. A pristine blue pool is the 17th century, so surrounded by olive don’t let any modern trees, several acres of ideas of “factory” garden walks and tennis cloud your view—this courts, all centered on the tonnara features thick colorful and charming walls, a turreted tower, farmhouse and inn. and lots of arched gateways, more like a Rooms and suites are seaside chateau than simple; think “shabby anything industrial. Hotel La Tonnara Hotel La Tonnara chic,” but impeccably clean and furnished with Trapani is well known for its salt flats, into agricultural life, but you may not everything you need for a laid-back which also border thousands of acres have stayed at one of Sicily’s baglio, or week or few days in the Sicilian sun. of marine-life reserve, making the traditional farmsteads. In Xitta, en Photographs, tools and collectibles line 5 1 0 Hotel La Tonnara unusually quiet, a route to Agrigento (famous for the the walls and enhance the feeling that 2 t perfect place for romance, retreat, or Valley of Temples), the Curatolo family s continued on page 10 u g even rejuvenation—skip the operates the Duca di Castelmonte u “Wellbeing Oasis” and just hang out at Agriturismo out of the baglio they have A the gorgeous pool, which may be this owned since the early 19th century. dream of 3 hotel’s best feature, with fantastic ® views of Monte Cofano and a path to Step through the cool, old-fashioned m o c . the clear sea waters, where guests can dining room/restaurant into the sunny y ITALY l a Kathleen A. McCabe t go snorkeling with equipment on loan courtyard and you may find the family i Editor in Chief and Publisher f from the front desk. matriarch leaning over a wrought-iron o m a e balcony, her snow-white hair perfectly Executive Editor: Bethanne Patrick r d Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe . However, don’t expect luxury. The coiffed and her black-cotton dress w Design: Kim Leaird w dining room is lovely and food is perfectly starched. She gazes down as w www.leaird-designs.com adequate, but not resort level. Rooms her son “ Toto, ” or Alfonso, explains the are also adequate—furnished with ricotta-making process. Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a spare pieces, and not at all fancy. The year. Delivery by mail is $87 in the U.S., Canada and location is also well removed from Fresh ricotta is not actually a cheese; its abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $77 per year. Subscriptions include online access to Trapani center, so unless you have a official description in Italian is latticio, more than 125 back issues and regular e-mail updates. car, you’ll be hard pressed to find or “milk product.” It’s made from Three ways to subscribe: other dining and entertainment whey, and the reason this is important 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, Denver, CO 80201 options.