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OCTA at the Crossroads 12th Annual Convention

Tour E Salt Lake Valley Historical

Sponsored by Oregon-California Trails Association Crossroads Chapter

Thursday, August 11 , 1994 and Saturday, August 13, 1994

8:00 - 12:00 a.m. - Points of Interest (Underlined locations indicate freeguided or self-guided tours available) (For more information, see Salt Lake City Underfoot, 1993, by Mark Angus, in whose book much of this information is found)

1. PIONEER PARK. August 1, 1847, a proposal to now located (northwest comer of State and South erect a stockade of "adobes" to house the emigrating Temple Streets). He was called on the carpet by local Saints the following winter was accepted. Vetrans of authorities but his wife was adamant for health and the Mormon Battalion, who had served in New other reasons. Lorenzo's explanation satisfiedthe Mexico, and Sam Brannan, who had seen the authorities, and he was allowed to live outside the fort technique used in California, recommended the use of that winter. The other 1,671 were packed into the 423 adobe. The decision was made that the temporary houses they had contrived to build within the forts. stockade should be erected near a convenient clay One night Lorenzo put strychninearound the cabin deposit which promptly became known as the Adobe and the next morning fourteen white wolves were Yard. and Henry G. Sherwoodchained found dead. offthree blocks south and three blocks west fromthe A few of the approximately twelve thousand Temple Block, and on the site now called Pioneer American Indians who inhabited the Great Basin in Park the camp began to lay the outer stockade wall, 1847 lived in the Salt Lake Valley. In the fall a group intended to be ninefeet high. Within this adobe of Ute Indians came to the fort. One of them offered stockade log houses were commenced, using green to sell two young Indians who had been captured in a timber cut in the adjacent canyons. In three weeks the raid. When the Saints recoiled at the suggestion, the Saints had built twenty-nine log houses "between 8 Indian threatened to kill the children. After another and 9 feet high, 16 or 17 feet long by 14 feetwide," refusal, one was killed. Then Charles Decker, and roofed eleven of them with poles and dirt. 's brother-in-law, purchased the other Nine wagon companies arrived in 1847 (the andgave her to Lucy Decker Young to raise. Sally, as last, Oct. 2) with almost 2,000 persons. This was she was named, later became chief cook in the many more than was planned that spring. Additions and eventuallymarried the Pauvant were made to the south and north of the fort, which Ute chief Kanosh from southern . were called South and North Forts. They were Most forty-niners passing through Great Salt connected with the Old Fort by gates, and each of Lake Citycamped at the site, and 1850 emigrant them had gates through which the people went to and George Shepard reportedthat he "encampt at the old from their fieldsand work outside. Most of the houses fort and put our horses in a pastureat fifteen cents a were built close together as lean-tos, with the wall of head pr twenty fourhours." The structure did not the fort being the highest wall. Theroofs sloped standup well to the elements, and had outlived its towards the inside, andall the doors and windows usefulness when the city council ordered its were on the inside, so as to make the houses more crumbling walls tom down in 1851 secure against attack in case any were made. A few Adobe expert and building restorationist houses were not lean-tos. The roofs on the houses Russ Bezette claims that were the were made rather flat. The result was that nearly first Anglo-Americans to incorporate adobe into their every house leakedduring the first winter. Field mice culture. by the hundredsalso invaded theirprivacy. On the20th, Harriet P. Young, wife of 2. FIRST PIONEER CEMETERY (1847-48). Lorenzo D. Young, gave birth to malea child, which This cemetery just happened. Milton Howard was subsequently namedLorenzo Dow. He died Therlkill, aged 3, drowned in City Creek, Aug. I I, March 22, 1848. This was the first white male child 1847, and was buried here on the side of a Fremont born in G.S.L. Valley. Harriet was not impressed with Indian mound (garbagedump) the next day. He was the Valley. She told Lorenzo, "We have traveled part of the Mississippi Saints group that caught up 1,500 miles to get here, and I would willinglytravel a with Brigham'sadvance groupat Ft. Laramie, June 2, thousand miles farther (she was 9 month's pregnant) and came into the Valley, July 22. Caroline Van Dyke to get where it looked as though a white mancould Grant (age 29) wife of Jedediah M. Grant, died at live." Lorenzo, Brigham's brother, sold out his Bear River., Sept. 30, of cholera. Jedediah drove the interest in the fortand constructedthe firsthouse 75 miles to Salt Lake as quickly as possible in order (hewn log) on a city lot, where the Beehive House is to bury her in the Valley. She was laid next to Milton 2

Therlkill on the 30th. The rest of Grant's group emigrating to Salt Lake City as a concession. arrived Oct. 2nd. Nancy O'Neal Rich, age 65, a member of that group died 3 days later of exposure 6. DEVEREAUX HOUSE. This began as a and pneumonia and was buried next to Caroline. spacious cottage, built in 1857, by William Staines, Excavations in 1986 uncovered 32 bodies (9 the most respected horticulturist in the Valley, adults, the rest young persons and babies) which were Brigham Young's landscaper, and territoriallibrarian. later reinterred at Pioneer Trail State Park. The city He brought hundreds of trees to the Valley, many of cemetery was begun in 1848 at its present location. In which died early on, and had quite an orchard on this 1856, a city ordinance ended interments in locations property. His house was the site of trucenegotiations other than the city cemetery, unless special between territorialgovernor AlfredCumming and permission was granted. Bodies previously buried Brigham Young during the Utah War. Staines also elsewhere were required to be relocated except for hosted Sir Richard Burton (British author of Cityof special dispensations. A motion passed to allow the the Saints) in 1860. bodies buried here at the Indian Mound on the The house was purchased by a son of Shirtleffpropertyto remain. The cemetery was never Brigham Young in 1865, and then by Utah's first well marked, permanent headstones had not been millionaire, , in 1868. Jennings used, and the cemetery disappeared from made his fortunetransporting goods and with his consciousness until construction was begun in 1985. Eagle Emporium store (SW cornerof First South and The graves were located 30 feet west and 200 feet Main), which became the firststore in the Z.C.M.L south of the commerative marker at the northeast chain. He was the mayor of Salt Lake City, I 882- cornerof this block. 1885, and a devout Mormon with two wives. He expanded the house in 1868, adding the west pavilion, 3. RIOGRANDE RAILROAD DEPOT. then replacing the cottage with a matching east Constructed in 1909 to service the WesternPacific pavilion in the late l 870's to give the house a Second Railroad, it is currently headquarters of the Utah Empire architectural look. He named the house after Historical Society. On the main floor is a nice the Devereaux Estate in England where he was born. museum, freeto the public, which depicts Utah's He entertained such dignitariesas U.S. presidents history and diverse cultures with displays, pictures, Ulysses Grant and Rutherford Hayes. Following his and artifacts, a "prairie schooner," and handcart. The death, the mansion became an officebuilding as well society operates a gift and bookstore, which includes as a rehabilitation center foralcoholics. It is presently copies of their magazines, on the main floor and a the ChartHouse Restaurant. Restoration was required research library on the second floor. The depot is said as partof the Triad Center development on this block. to be haunted by a black-haired woman in purple velvet who was killed while retrievingan engagement 7. TRIAD BUSINESS CENTER. Begun in the ring her boyfriend had thrown onto the tracks. early 1980s, the $600 million redevelopment complex originally planned to cover 24 acres (2 1/2 complete 4. DELTA CENTER. Home of the Utah Jazz blocks). It would have included a 4-level shopping basketball team. center, three 25-story residential condominium towers, anda 600-room, 30-story hotel. In 1987 Triad 5. UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD DEPOT. This America, the holding company for Saudi businessman $500,000 depot was completed in 1909 by the Oregon and arms merchant, Adnan Khashoggi, filed ShortLine. The structureis built on piles because bankruptcy and constructionstopped aftercompletion engineers believed the site was an old river bed. The of the initial fourbuildings. The grounds areused for monument in frontexplains how Brigham was paid in summer concertsand winter ice skating. Notice the train rails and rolling stock as partial payment done fountainsand sculpture by Janet Shapero with by Mormon laborers on the transcontinentalrailroad petroglyph designs etched in glass. in 1869. Thiswas used in extending a spur from Ogden towards Salt Lake City forthe newly formed 8. CAPITOL THEATER. The second theaterbuilt Utah Central Railroad. Since the debt was never in Salt Lake City by the Orpheum vaudeville theater completely settled, William Staines was able to chain in 1913, eight years after opening its sister secure reduced passage of $40 for Mormons theater two blocks east on State Street. Notice the 3

polished granite and polychromatic terra-cotta fa�ade. The south branch of City Creek was damned up at 2 In 1927 the interior was renovated for motion p.m. on July 23, 1847, and water diverted to soften pictures, then restored in 1976 to house the Utah the ground that had broken plows of the first pioneers. Opera Company, Ballet West, Ririe-Woodbury By noon the next day, the ground had been plowed Modem Dance Company, and Repertory Dance and 5 acres had been plowed and readied forplanting Theatre. An underground tunnel connected the two potatoes, com, beans, buckwheat, and turnips. Ditches theaters and performers sometimes played both were completed by afternoon and water turned loose theaters the same night. on the potato patch.

9. FIRST TRAFFIC LIGHT INTERSECTION 12. CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. MARKS. IN AMERICA. Prior to World War I, Lester This espicopal church was designed in 1871 by Wire became a policeman in Salt Lake City. renowned New York City architect Richard Upjohn, Being young and a junior member of the force, who designed Trinity Church in Manhattan. It is the he was assigned to the dreaded duty of traffic oldest non-Mormon church in Salt Lake City. Inside, the 1857 pipe organ, built in Glasgow, Scotland, is control. His station was the intersection of, the oldest in Utah. Second South and Main Streets. Electricity was Wells Fargo had its stables across the street available on poles running down Main Street, so and a little east. he stuck a pipe in the center of the intersection, cut holes for his lights (he chose green and red 13. OLD CITY HALL (see #32). (Moved to because of similar lights he had seen on his present location on Capitol Hill, 1962.) Notice the sister's Christmas tree), built a roof over the Hupmobile sign on the brick building to the right. contraption (it looked like a bird house), and ran wires to one of the comers, where he operated 14. OLD SALT LAKE THEATER LOCATION. the device manually. Shortly after he enlisted for This structurewas added to the city when it became service in WW I. By the time of his discharge obvious that the Social Hall was much too small to handle theater goers. Church architect Truman someone else had patented his idea and gone Angeli's protege, William Folsom, designed the into production. Lester received nothing for the stately theater in 1862, using the Drury Lane Theatre invention. in London as a model. The previous year he had helped design the Tabernacleon . Like Gallivan Plaza. J.W. Gallivan was publisher of the Tabernacle, the bell-shaped interiorcreated an newspaper. Notice the 15- echo which had to be corrected-in this casewith a flat ton sandstone, copper, and glass sundial by artist ceiling. Folsom, like Angell, had no formal Kazuo Matsubayashi, called "Asteroid Landed architecturaltraining. (Both were also father-in-laws Softly." to Brigham Young.) Like the Social Hall, entrance was paid in 10. HOLMES BROTHEL (165 Regent grain, eggs, andeven needlework. A front-row-center rocking chairwas reserved for Brigham Young. He Street). One of the city's few remaining 19th­ once said: "A people need amusement as well as century bordellos. A late-comer on the block, it was religion." built in 1893 and operated as a brothel until about Unfortunately, the newer Orpheum theaters I 920. Most houses of ill-repute were contained within were more popular. Theadobe theater was tom down this area. In 1908 there were thirty-fivebrothels and in 1929 to make way for a gas station. Public 150 prostitutes in this area of town. Women-for-hire sentiment wanted the building preserved, but money paid the city a ten-dollar monthly registration fee. The was not available. The D.U.P. museum (see #35), end of institutionalizedamour began in 193 8 when completed in 1950, wasdesigned inside and out to mayor E.B. Erwin and police chief, Harry Finch, replicate this piece of pioneer history. spent 8 months injail forreceiving payoffs from sixteen brothels. 15. SOCIAL HALL. Beneath the glass frame, which is the size andshape of the original structure, 11. WESTERN IRRIGATION BEGAN HERE. 4 are the stone foundation walls of the firsttheater west was added in the 1890s. The house also served as the of the River. There is also a small historical residence of four subsequent church presidents. exhibit showing construction tools, building The beehive is the state's symbol and techniques, and old photographs. Built in1852, this represents industry. Notice the widow's walk Greek Revival playhouse seated 350. Tickets were (northeasternheritage) and the two-story veranda, a purchased with gold dust, tithing scrip, and produce. southern-colonial accommodation to Utah's long, dry City dances were held here and the entrance fees summers. Inside, the pine woodwork has been stained included a discount foradditional wives. to look like hardwood and marble. Half-hour guided The hall later housed the Latter-day Saint tours are available daily, 9:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. (10:30 College, which evolved into the LDS Business • 1:00 Sundays). College now located on South Temple (see #82). The hall was razed in 1922 as partof a $1 million 19. LION HOUSE. Completed in the drought year commercial project featuringtwenty-five automobile of 1856 , two years afterthe Beehive House, this 2.5- garages, showrooms, and workshops, which lined storyadobe structuretakes its name from the Social Hall Avenue through the 1950s. Automobile couchant lion on top of the frontporch (sculpted by advertisements can still be seen painted on young assistant church architect William Ward) and surrounding brick structures.(Pioneer Trail State Park Brigham Young's epithet "Lion of the Lord." Note the has a replica of this building in use today.) shuttered windows, tall chimneys, and tile roof; east Clara Decker, Brigham's fourthpolygamous and west exposures are topped with ten steep-roofed wifeand the one who came west with him in 1847, gables. lived in a cottage just to the north. Young, who had fifty-five wives, intended the house as an example of the way such marital 16. OLD SALT LAKE CITY LIBRARY (now, arrangements could be managed, though only a few Hansen Planetarium and Space Science Museum). of his wives lived here. The main floor contained This 1905 structure housed the territory's 1,000 bedrooms and parlors fortwelve wives and young volume library fundedby the U.S. Congress. The city children, the second floorbedrooms forchildless library was open one day per week. Today, science, wives, the upper floor twenty children'sbedrooms. A star, and laser shows are presented mornings, spacious, enclosed west porch served as a recreation afternoons, and evenings in a domed theater. area. A dining room seated -five people. Wooden pipes carried waste water fromthe sinks to 17. ALTA CLUB. Until recently a males-only club, the outside, a big help to the kitchen workers. this exclusive establishment was foundedin 1883 by Separate privies for males and femaleswere attached prominent non-Mormon businessmen and excluded to the rear. A large laundry room with an open fire Mormons, though William Jennings (Eagle and cauldrons operated twenty-fourhours a day. Emporium and Devereaux fame) was allowed Brigham didn't allow pets inthe house, but did build membership. The property was acquired froma small portals in the foundation forcats to go under daughter of Brigham. The building was built in 1897 and "mouse." A dumb waiter was funto ride ( l large, and was accessed from State Street. Twelve years or 3 small children) if not caught. later, the east wing was added and the entrance Lucy Bigelow became wife#42 in 1947 changed to South Temple Street. Across the street to when she was 17. She was both funand clever. She the west was the location of the old "Gardo" house. converted one of the rooms into a classroom and taught thechildren school until Brigham built his own 18. BEEHIVE HOUSE (Brigham Young's private school house across the streetto the east. Her Residence), Completed in 1854 of adobe block by daughter was Susa Young, mentioned in #20. Notice church builders, this was Brigham Young's official the rough-facedstone foundation. Brigham died here, residence where he lived with his second wife,Mary August 29, 1877. The building is now two restaurants. Ann Angell, and later with Lucy Decker, his first polygamous wife. Previous to this, he lived in a log 20. L.D.S. CHURCH ADMINISTRATION house and then in the "White House," located across OFFICE. This building, completed in 1917 at a cost the streetto the east. The little wing to the west of more than $ I million, houses the presiding officers served as a reception center and office. A north wing of the Mormon church and their staffs. It sits near the 5

site of Brigham's first home. It is an example ofNeo­ necessary. Classical Revival architecture, with twenty-four Below the lobby to the north is the Family Greek lonic columns weighing eight tons each. The Search Center. A staffof 200 volunteers and 130 building is constructed of steel andconcrete faced computer workstations will help you construct your with Utah granite. The interior is adornedwith "pedigree" or family tree through the world's largest Russian walnut, marble, onyx, and oriental rugs. genealogical data base and provide you with a Admission is restricted to church officers and their printout. guests. Only one woman has been officed in this 22. . This building, sometimes referred to as the "thirteenth statue was created by Springville, Utah, sculptor apostle." This was Susa Young Gates, Brigham Cyrus Dallin. This and the angel Moroni atop the Young's daughter by wife #42, Lucy Bigelow, whom LDS Temple were commissioned by church he married while crossing the plains the second time. president, . Cyrus also did the Susa married Alma Dunford, a dentist, divorced him, statue of Massassoit, the Iroquois Indian in front of and married Jacob Gates. During the 1910-20's she the state capitol building (see #33). On the west is the was on the women's general board, Hudson Bay trapper, Peter Skene Ogden, and on the founded the ReliefSociety Magazine and the Young east is the Shoshone Indian Chief, Washakie, a friend Woman's Journal, and was a delegate to the to the early settlers. Thismonument was first International Council of Women in London and displayed at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair andthen Copenhagen. stood on Temple Square until 1897. It was then ln back (facingNorth Temple Street) is the moved to the center of the intersectionof Main and Church Office Buj)djng, This 28-story highrise is South Temple Streets. Ogden and Washakie were the city's tallest building. It was constructed in 1972 added to the monument. Up to this time, Brigham was for $38 million. The history department of the church alone. It wasmoved to itscurrent location in 1994 to and library are located in the east wing, while the relieve congestion andallow pedestriansa closer genealogical departmentis located in the west wing. look. The names of the vanguardc ompany are listed Tours begin in the main lobby or on the 26th-floor on the north side. They include 140 freemen, three observation deck (nice view of the city). women, two children (Harriet Wheeler Young's), and three "colored servants." One of the servants, Green 21. MEMORIAL BUILDING Flake, drove Young's carriage into the valley (formerly the Hotel Utah). Located on ground (Brigham was riding in Wilford Woodruffs wagon). where theoriginal tithing house and Deseret Store (bishop's storehouse) and newspaper 23. MERIDIAN MARKER. This marker, fixed by (second floor)were located. Deseret (pronounced Orson Prattless than two weeks afterthe pioneers dez'-er-et') is a tenn taken from Mormon scripture, first arrived in the Valley, defines the boundaries of the Book of Mormon, and means "honey bee." This Temple Square and serves as the originating point for IO-story hotel was operated by the church from 1911 the city's streetnumbering system. The stone marker until 1987 when it was remodeled as church office was later set by U.S. surveyorgeneral David Burr. space. It reopened in 1993. In the lobby is a large The numbering may be confusing at first, but, when statue of Joseph Smith, a copy of a Mahonri Young oriented, maps are practically unnecessary and inner­ bronze. city congestion, typical of eastern cities, is virtually On east side of the mezzanine level is a non-existent. chapel (formerly the LafayetteBallroom) which Due north is Ensign Peak (see #34). servicesthree downtown L.D.S. congregations. From the lobby the hallway west leads to the 24. C.R. SAVAGE MONUMENT. On the same north end of the building and a wide-screen theater comer is a bust of C.R. Savage, pioneer photographer, for about 700 persons. The movie legacy is based whose studio was the first commercial building south loosely on the diary and experiences of a frontier of here (the old City Hall, which burned down was on woman, Mary Elizabeth Rollins Lightner, a the comer). Savage organized the popular "Old Folks polygamous wife of Joseph Smith and, after his death, Day," an annual event to get lonely, elderly people the 21st wife of Brigham Young. Tickets are free but out to a major social event. 6

The 13-foothigh adobe wall around the the annual art contest, etc. Open weekdays from9 temple rests on a red sandstone base and was a.m. - 9 p.m. weekends 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. stuccoed to preserve and enhance its appearance. Its construction provided security as well as something 28. TEMPLE SQUARE, On this 10-acre block are new emigrants could to do in trade for fooduntil they located the temple, a 10,000 seat tabernacleand could get established. organ, the Assembly Hall (used fortabernacle over flowor forsmaller gatherings), two visitor's centers Abravanel Hall (Home of the Utah (where filmand displays help explain Mormon Symphony) was named aftera fonnerconductor. The beliefs), exquisite flowergardens, and public rest hall is part of a 1976 bicentennial artscomplex and is rooms. Notice the small arch at the base of the wall, located where Wilford Woodruff, fonnerpresident of north of the west entrance, which at one time was the Monnon church, operated his Valley House open to allow water fromCity Creek, used in Hotel. The church collects rent on the property of $1 powering equipment on the premises, to exit. per year. 29. MARMALADE HISTORIC DISTRICT. This 25. FAMILYHISTORY LIBRARY (Genealogical quaint section west of Capitol Hill is a national Research). Open to the public, this 5-story building historic district and once contained orchards. Water houses one of the largest book and microfilm libraries was brought fromCity Creek across the top southern in the world regarding genealogical informationfrom end of this old deltain what was called the 19th Ward various countries. Numerous volunteers are available ditch. Because the streets are namedafter fruits, this to answer questions. Open 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. section of town was called Marmalade Hill. home. Located on the southwest 26. DEUEL-CARRINGTON CABIN (1847). One comer of 100 Northand West Temple Streets. First of two surviving log cabins built by Mormon pioneers commercial store in Salt LakeCity was operated out their firstyear in the valley (the other is located at of his house by Livingston and Kinkead with $10,000 Pioneer Trail State Park). Built by Osmyn Deuel, a worthof inventory. The house was a convenient two blacksmith, as part of the north extension of the blocks away fromUnion Square (now West High original fort,it was sold two years later to Albert School) where emigrants, on arriving in the valley, Carrington (apostle from 1870 to his would go until relatives came and got them or they excommunication in 1885) who removed it to the foundout where they could settle.Livingston and southeast corner of 100 North and West Temple Kinkead relocated to Main Streeta short time later Streets. It was subsequently relocated to the southeast and Bell replaced Kinkead as a partner. comer of Temple Square and finally to its current The University ofDeseret (later University location when the buildings north and south of it were of Utah) was foundedin Pack's home in 1850. Tum completed. leftto 200 West and thennorth to 500 North.Tum right. 27. MUSEUMOF (LOS) CHURCH HISTORY LOS 19th Ward Chapel. Built in 1890 on AND ART. The museum boasts a varietyof the site of an adobe school, this Byzantine-inspired changing displays featuringsamples fromits 10,000- architecture reflects the "gay nineties." Church artifactcollection. The main floorfeatures artifacts servicesfor this congregationwere previously held in from the church's beginning in 1820 through the the Warm Springs Bath House (300 West, 800 19th-Century in Utah and a bookstore. A cassette North). The Relief Society building was erected in tape, self-guided tour is available at the frontdesk. 1908 and the social hall in the back in 1929. Today, it This and the second-floorexhibit on church prophets houses the Salt Lake Acting Company and the Utah fromJoseph Smith remain constant. The basement Arts Festival directors. Tum south on Quince Street. has a filmauditorium and some art work. The main Cross House. This stuccoed adobe saltbox artdisplay area is on the second floorand changes house on the east comer was constructed about 1884 every fewmonths. This is also where special events forDaniel Cross fromBanbury, England. A plaque on are commemorated, likethe 100th anniversaryof the the north reads "Banbury Cross," a play on the dedication of the Salt Lake Temple, the 150th nursery rhyme. anniversaryof Joseph and 's mart)'Tdom, William Morrow - John W. Taylor House 7

(390 Quince Street). William Morrowbuilt this Thomas Quayle came to Utah in 1847. Thomas was house in 1880 with some sophisticated Italianate twelve and his brother John was fourteen. Two years touches - a flatroof and molded eaves, segmented later they ran away to the Californiagold fields where window arches, a prominent bay, and an entrance to they began freighting supplies fromSacr amento to one side rather than front-center. When his wife died miningcamps. They later returned to Utah to in 1884, he sold the house to newly ordained apostle establish a freighting company, including a stint John Whitaker Taylor. His father, church president, carrying gold for Wells Fargo Company. This quaint , once hid here from federal authorities frame house with wood gingerbread trimwa s built as behind a false wall. Apostle Taylor had fifteenwives a rental property between 1884-89 as a rental unit on andlived here with one of them, May, whose nameis the north end of the block where the Hilton Hotel is inscribed in stone on the front of the house. now located. It was moved here by the Heritage In 1904, Monnon apostle was Foundation in 1975 and became its headquarters. elected to the U.S. Senate and a senate ethics Tum east on 300 North, then south on Almond. committeeprobed his affiliationwith ongoing, secret Ebenezer Beesley House (80 West 300 polygamy. Church president Joseph F. Smith testified North). To your left (northeastcomer of the next that the practice had been abolished, but Taylor and street east) is the T-shaped stuccoedadobe manor of fellow apostle Matthias Cowley, against the wishes of musician Ebenezer Beesley. Beesley was a handcart Smith, said they would not appear before the pioneer who supportedhimself initially as a committee and perjure themselves. In a face-saving shoemaker. He played the violin, became conductor move, they were asked to resign theirchurch of the MonnonTabernacle Choir and Salt Lake positions, and Taylor was subsequently Theater Orchestra, foundedthe Beesley Music excommunicated. Smoot served in the Senate for Company, was a polygamist andhad sixteen children. many years. Notice in the front that Beesley's house features August Carlson House (378 Quince another superfluous second-storydoor leading to a Street). Built in 1885 by Swedish emigrant August superficial portico. Carlson, this is one of the best examples (along with the Quayle House, 355 Quince) of Carpenter's Gothic 30. ALFRED McCUNE MANSION. This Style. Notice the quoined wood comers and the bay magnificent 3-story, 21-room Shingle Style house window topped by a small wood balustrade with one was designed by S.C. Dallas and completed in 190 I. of the ubiquitous second-story doors. Carlson became It was the first $1 million house in Utah. McCune was a bank director, university regent, and member of the born in Calcutta, India, which is reflected in the city council. distinctive Asian flair to the mansion, although the John Platts House (364 Quince Street). house is a replica of an estate he encountered on TheJohn Platts house is one of the oldest on Capitol Riverside Drive in New York City. The interior Hill, dating fromthe mid 1850s. This vernacular includes liberal use of imported materials such as house employs four external building materials. The Russian mahogany. The top flooris a ballroom. cottage received an 1860s T-shape addition. The two At age twenty-one McCune contracted to chimneys on the originalstructure recall an "I build portions of the Utah SouthernRailroad, House," patterned after Indiana, Illinois, and Iowa becoming one of the largest railroad contractors in the houses which had a central passageway and a room rocky Mountain region. He also purchased the city on either side instead of a single internalwall. trolleys. He then became partnerwith J.P. Morgan, John and his wife emigratedfrom England in William Hearst, and F. Vanderbuilt in the fabulously 1854. He was a stonemason who also served as wealthy Peruvian Cero de Pasco mines (McCune built Brigham Young's carriagedriver. He settled on the the railroad over difficultterrain to the mine). hill to raise peaches with which he paid church Alfred had a large family. His wife devoted tithing. Difficulties over the Monnon practice of most of her timehelping the youth in the church. polygamy subsequently led the Platts to disassociate Whenthe family leftUtah, she gave the house to the themselves from the LDS church. Emily Platts now defunct LDS University, which used it for the became especially bitter, forbiddingher children any McCune School of Music and Art. It served as a affiliation with Monnons. social center for receptions and seminars. It is Thomas Quayle House (355 Quince). currentlyowned by a doctor and is in the process of 8 renovation. balustrade shouting, "We have the vote!" J. Golden Kimball House (36 East 200 North). Kimball, son of Heber C. Kimball, built this 33. STATE CAPITOL BUILDING. German-born stuccoed adobe on the north end of his father's and European trained architect, Richard Kletting, won property. He is remembered forhis earthy metaphors a contest in 1911 for his design of this building. Three and "colorful" language, reflecting his occupation as a million dollars was allocated and when completed in mule skinner in Rich County. 1915, it came in underbudget at $2.7 million. Kimball-Whitney Cemetery (center of Architectural feesamounted to fifteen percent. The block, south of Golden's house). Enter from State design was inspired by the Maryland and US capitol Street. Newell K. Whitney, second bishop in the buildings and is considered one of the top three state church, and his wife,Ann Houston Whitney,Vilate capitol buildings in the . This cement Kimball, firstwife of Heber, and Ellen Sanders building has a quartzite veneer, a copper-leaf dome, Kimball (one of the first tJrree women to enter the which has been shredded twice in hurricane-strength valley) are buried here. Fifty-sixpersons were buried gales and will oxidize to a green color, and twenty· here, 33 Kimballs, 13 Whitneys, and l O others, four Corinthian columns. including hired help, friends, and 2 Indians. The 165-foothigh interior rotunda is of Seckels House (45 East 200 North). Louis Georgian marble, which was preferredover Utah Seckels and wifeSara, daughter of Heber C. Kimball, marble because of its lighter color. Between the built this edifice in 1889. The windows, designed for arches the walls are painted withmurals of Utah's a view of the Salt lake Temple, were set behind past, Sylvester Velez de Escalante discovering Utah twelve columns which represent the twelve Mormon Lake in 1776, Peter Skene Ogden discovering the apostles. Ogden River in 1826, John C. Fremont exploring the Great Salt Lake in 1843, and BrighamYoung 31. WHITE CHAPEL (Old 18th Ward Chapel). entering the valley in 1847. The other two murals Originallysituated furtherdown thehill and on the show the valley fromthe perspective of the pioneers other side of City Creek, the LDS 18th Ward as they entered and as they began building a (essentially the families of Brigham Young, Heber C. settlement. Kimball, and Newell K. Whitney)chapel was among There are statues of Brigham Young, the frrst in the valley to feature a steeple, reflecting Brigadier General Thomas L. Kane ( crucial non­ the New England ancestry of Utah's early immigrants. Mormon friend), Utah copper magnateand playboy The chapel was dismantled in 1973 and reconstructed Daniel Jaclding, andtelevision inventor Philo T. at its present location seven yearslater with new Farnsworth.The Gold Room cost $65,000 to furnish. brick. The doors, pews, pulpit, and stainedglass Notice the Russian walnut table, the Travis marble windows are preserved. Now owned by the state, the (18 colors), gold leaf, and the chandeliers. chapel is available for non-denominational On the lower floorare various displays, community functions. Open by appointmentonly. historical information,Ab Jenkins "Monnon Meteor" of Salt Flats fame, and a nice relief map of the state. 32. OLD CITY HALL. This building was Free tours begin at the map. completed in 1866 and served as city hall and Grounds. The statue of Massassoit was territorial capitol until 1894. Thelegislature met made fromthe mold belonging to the Cyrus Dallin upstairs in the Rose Room. It was designed by family. Dallin, a Utah artist, was commissioned to do William Folsom (Salt Lake Theater, GardoHouse, the original that stands today on a hill in Plymouth, Tabernacle,Manti Temple). The 60-footsquare Massachusetts, overlooking the famous Plymouth building was originally located at 120 East 100 North Rock. (where the Federal building is now) and was The Mormon Battalion Monument to the dismantled,coded, and moved block by block in 1962 east commemorates thebattalion of volunteers that to its present location. Now used by the Utah Travel participated in the war with Mexico in 1846. Notice Council, maps, books, pictures, and freeinformation the garden with a constantlychanging date. is available regarding all of Utah'sparks and forests. Entrance. West of the frontsteps is a When women became enfranchisedin 1870, women monument to Union PacificRailroad president rang the bell in the belfryand hung over the Edward Harriman.Estate taxes on Harriman's estate 9

helped finance construction of the capitol building. area without parking. In front is a statue of Eliza R. On either side of the flagpole, between two spruces Snow, eulogized here as a Mormon "priestess" and (Utah's state tree) ar twocopper beehives complete remembered forher poem, "O My Father," which with bees. acknowledges a heavenly mother. She was also one Vietnam Memorial. Located on the west of the presidents of the women's Relief Society side of the building, the 1989 sculpture by Clyde organization. Morgan depicts a soldier carrying his dead friend's Within the museum (no feebut contributions rifle. The wall behind lists Utahns who died in are wekome) are some 37 rooms featuring a wide southeast Asia. Other war monuments lie further variety of artifacts from Utah's pioneer past, including west. thousands of photographs, furniture, clothing, musical Tours begin on the lower floorevery 30 instruments, quilts, stitchery,personal items, tools for minutes, 9 - 4:30. the home and work, conveyances, maps, documents, 34. ENSIGN PEAK. Thispeak offersthe best view etc. DUP publications and souvenirs are available. of the valley. This is the first place Brigham Young Open daily except on Sunday, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. (Sunday cameto after entering the valley. According to Pres. afternoons only in the summer.) Tours are either self­ George A. Smith, speaking in the Tabernacle, June guided or with docents. The DUP operate museums in 20, 1869, [inthe Nauvoo Temple, prior to leaving for historic buildings throughout the state and maintain the west] "President Young had a vision of Joseph perhaps the largest collection of pioneer artifacts in Smith, who showed him the mountain that we now the United States. call Ensign Peak, immediately north of Salt Lake City, and there was an ensign [that] fell upon that 36. MORMON HANDICRAFT STORE. This peak, and Joseph said, 'Build under that point where store accepts articlesmade at home on consignment. the colors fall and you will prosper and have peace."' Quilt-making materials and craftsupplies are also He broughtall the apostles that were in the valley, available. The store allows persons who prefer to AlbertCarrington, and his scribe, , to work at home an outlet to markettheir creations. It is this spot, confirmed his statement that this was indeed a funst ore to browse even if you are not purchasing the place where the Mormons would settle and build a anything. temple and a city. From here the visitor can see what the 37. SALT LAKE TEMPLE. Begun in 1853, it was pioneers saw (subtract the greenery and buildings completed in 1893 at a cost of $4 million. The granite from your mind's eye), the canyons, the streams, the blocks, 3 tons each, were transported from Little lake, the canyons, and the mountains. Numerous Cottonwood Canyon, 20 miles to the south, by ox pioneer trails cross here and about one-third of all teams and later by railroad. Architect, Truman western pioneers came to or through this valley. The Angell, had no formal education as an architect and Pony Express, Wells Fargo, the telegraph, and the only two years of formal schooling. The basic Lincoln Highway (first coast to coast highway) went structure was dictated by Brigham Young based on through Salt Lake. Promontory Point (connecting revelation regardingthe matter. Construction was point of the transcontinental railroad) is less than 100 stopped during the Utah War of 1857, during the miles north of here. Notice the geologic formations building of the Union Pacific and Central Pacificrail and the various shore lines of ancient lakeBonneville. lines, which divertedlaborers, and againin the 1880s Salt Lake City owns the peak, itself. Many foreign when church propertywas confiscated by the federal visitors to Salt Lake hike to the summit. government (Edmunds-Tucker Act)because of the practice of polygamy. 35. PIONEER MEMORIALMUSEUM. The 12.5 footCyrus Dallin statue of Moroni Completed in 1950 by the Daughters of Utah Pioneers (a Book of Mormon prophet) weighs 1.5 tons, is gold­ (DUP) and the state of Utah, this 4-story edifice built leafed, stands210 feet in the air. on land leased to the DUP by the state is a loose replica of the old Salt Lake Theatre. During its nearly 38. FACADE FROM 1869 AMUSSEN thirty years' planning andconstruction, the museum JEWELRY COMPANY. This Key Bank fa�ade was the subject of some controversy regardingits was partially salvaged fromthe Amussen's jewelry placement at the top of Main Street in a residential building, designedby William Folsom, that stood a 10

little south. The building had a balcony which was U.S. senator, and part-owner (with David Keith, see used as a bandstand forafternoon concerts. The #49) of the Mormon Tribune (anti-Mormon second floor was the residence of Carl Amussen and newspaper), beginning in 1905. He contributed his three wives. Of 18 children, the youngest, Flora, toward constructionof the Cathedral of the Madeleine became wifeof Mormon church president Ezra Taft (see # 72) and St. Ann's Orphanage. From 19 l I until Benson. his death (he was killed when hit by a car here on Main Street in 1918) he served on the board of 39. ZION'S COOPERATIVE MERCANTILE trustees of Catholic University of America. His son, INSTITUTION (ZCMI). ZCMI was created in Thomas, Jr., foundedUtah's chapter of Alcoholics 1868 by the LOS church to facilitateself-sufficiency, Anonymous. get a better financialreturn forthe small businessman or farmer by cutting down on middlemen and 42. MORMON TRIBUNE BUILDING. The overhead, coupled with a boycott of non-Mormon Mormon Tribune, now the Salt Lake Tribune, was merchants. Eventually there were 146 cooperative foundedin 1870 by Mormons unhappy with Brigham branches throughout the territory, making ZCMI the Young's blending of church and state. They employed oldest quasi-department store chain in the United New York Herald reporter Oscar Sav.)'eras chief States. Part of the 1876 cast iron fa�adehas been editor, and the paper turneda critical eye on local retained. culture. This was a hit among sophisticates but loathed by rank and fileMormons. The original 40. EAGLE EMPORIUM (now Zion's First officeswere on I 00 South Street Gust west of the National Bank). This is the oldest commercial Dinwoody Cabinet Shop, (37 West 100 South). building in downtown Salt Lake City. It was This structure, built in 1937, is located on constructed in 1863 to house William Jennings's ground once occupied by the Salt Lake House, one mercantile business (see his Devereaux House, #8). lt of Salt Lake City's oldest hotels. The Pony Express became the original home of ZCMI in 1868 when still and Overland Stage officeswere immediately south. a single story, then Zion's First National Bank in At this hotel in l 859 a member of cattle-rustler Cub 1890. In 1916 the bank had the stone building refaced Johnson's gang shot and maimed rival outlaw Bill with a Neo-Classical veneer of terra-cotta. Notice the Hickman. When an accomplice stormed Hickman's terra-cottaeagle over the entrance and a four-faced, room, a revolver in each hand, Hickman's guard 120-year-old brass clock in front. stabbed him eleven times with a bowie knife.(On Jennings immigrated fromEngland when he ChristmasDay of the same year, Hickman was was twenty-six years old, working as a butcher (his severely wounded in the thigh in a shootout with Lot father's trade)and tanner before earning his first Huntington in front of the Townsend House hotel the million. He made his fortuneas a freighter and then next block west, where the Salt Palace arena once supplying grain to the Overland Stage Company, stood.) Four years later at the same hotel, the same investing profitsin railroading and banking. He guard fatallystabbed one of Johnson's group, this became a director ofDeseret National Bank. time in the presence of witnesses. He was arrested and executed, signaling the demise of Hickman's 41. KEARNS BUILDING. A magnificent building "hounds." completed in 1911 forThomas Kearns, this IO-story During the Utah War, two "spies" were held "skyscraper" is the best preserved Sullivanesque at the Salt Lake House until shot. This is also where (style developed by Louis Sullivan) highrise in the Sir Richard Burton (Cityof the Saints)stopped after intermountain west. It was built of concrete with a arriving in the valley in 1860 and where Atlantic terra-cottafaiyade facing the streetand brick faiyades Monthly correspondent Fritz Ludlow interviewed on the sides. Most strikingare the 7 life-sizefemale gunslinger Orrin in1862. figurines supporting lanternsat the second-story level. They are said to bear the face ofKearn'sdaughter. 43. SITE OF THE PONY EXPRESS ST ATION. Kearnsbuilt a magnificenthouse on South Temple Streetsnow used as the Governor'sMansion (see 44. HERALD BUILDING. This 5-story building #77). was constructed in 1905 forthe Salt LakeHerald, a Kearns was a Utah mining entrepreneur, now-defunctnewspaper foundedin 1870 (same year 11

as the Mormon Tribune) thatwas pro-Mormon and designed by Richard Kletting. sympathetic to Democrats. It ceased publication in 1920. Lamb's Cafe has occupied the ground floor 48. LOLLIN BUILDING. John Lollin, a Danish since 1919. immigrant, operated the popular saloon. He financed this building in 1894 to house the Hudson Bay Fur 45. WALKER CENTER. When completed in Company and Ella Becker Millinery. He lived in a 1912, this 16-story commercial style building was the third-floor apartment. tallest between Chicago and San Francisco (built a year after Salt Lake's first "skyscrapers," the 11-story 49. KEITH BUILDING. Built in 1902 at a cost of Boston and Newhouse buildings, 1 1/2 blocks south). $150,000, this 3-story buildingfirst housed the Keith­ Built of steel, concrete, and brick, it also features O'Brien Company dry goods store. David Keith and considerable terra-cotta ornamentation. Walker lifelongfriend Thomas Kearns discovered the Silver Brothers Bankerswas the first bankingestablishment King vein in Park City which produced $10 million in in Utah Territory. gold, silver, and lead. Keith and Kearns purchased the The four Walker brothers established the SaltLake Tribunein 1905, and Keith was president of Walker Brothers Dry Goods mercantile business in numerous banks, railroads, and fraternities, and a 1859, selling provisions to Johnston's Anny (Utah member of Utah's constitutional convention. His War) stationed at Camp Floyd, 40 miles southwest of house (see #76) was also close to his friend, Kearns. the city. When Brigham Young founded ZCMI, the (Begun in 1928, Sam Weller's Bookstore, perhaps the Walkers sided with others who disagreed with church best in the city, has occupied this location since policies and were excommunicated. 1961.) The Walker brothers began negotiating loans in a back room where their iron safe held gold dust 50. JUDGE BUILDING (Railroad Exchange). and coins. They eventually owned mines, hotels, an Mary Judge constructed this 7-story "fire-proof' opera house, and interest in railroads and factories. building in 1907 as offices for22 railroad companies. The dry goods declined, but the bank thrived. Mary Harney, of Irish descent, married Irish The rooftop cupola is illuminated at night to immigrant John McBrehoney, who changed his name indicate the weather forecast, blue when the weather to Judge when he arrived in the United States. John is fair, flashing blue for a fair-weather forecast, red was a partner with Thomas Keams and David Keith during a storm, and flashing red when a storm in the Silver King Mine in Park City and worked six approaches. days a week, seeing Mary only on Sundays, dying of dust inhalation in 1892. Mary subsequently invested 46. NATIONAL BANK OF THE REPUBLIC dividends in real estate, endowed the Catholic high (now West One Bank). Constructed in 1923 on the school on 1100 East Streetwhich bears her name, and site of the "White House Hotel", an early hotel contributed toward construction of the Cathedral of popularwith visitors at the tum of the century, this the Madeleine. bank financed many of the brothels, saloons, and On the sixth floor in 1985, Mormon gambling halls in town, including the most opulent of document dealer Mark Hoffinankilled collector the group, KarrickHall, for the founder of the bank, Steven Christensen with a pipe bomb to prevent Lewis Karrick. exposure as a forger.

47. KARRICK HALL. Lewis Karrick, founder of 51. and 52. BOSTON AND NEWHOUSE the bank, previously mentioned, built this gambling BUILDINGS. Designed by famous New York hall in 1887. Upstairs were apartments for8 architect Henry Ives Cobb, these I I-story highrise prostitutes, several of whose namesremain on their buildings, built in 1911, have a distinctiveeastern doors (not open to the public). He also headed the urban look. Financed by Samuel Newhouse and local vigilante Karrick Guards. Hemade an named afterhis Boston Consolidated Mine Company, unsuccessful bid formayor on the Liberal Party (anti­ and his own name, they contributed to his dream of a Mormon) ticket. When his fortunedwindled, and miniature Wall Street in Salt Lake City. Notice the followinga series of illnesses, he committeds uicide. three-part design - main floors, vertical office floors, Thisand the building to the south were both and massive cornice - which imitate the base, shaft, 12 and capital of a classical column. On the Boston stocks through the 1950s. The building, designed by building notice that the huge coat-of-arms shields Mormon architects, Lewis Cannon and John Fetzer, (cartouches) under the second-story dentiled cornice now accommodates attorneys and architects. are replicated at the top of the building. Like the Boston building, the Newhouse is a stone-faced, steel 56. CITY AND COUNTY BUILDING(and structure with classical details. Notice the carved Utah's First Capitol Building). December 18, 1888, stonework at the upper level, especially the industrial mention is first made that there was a need for a new and agricultural symbols including a garland of corn government building. The Mormon-dominated stocks. Inside is a marble staircase and copper mail People's Party was in power, as usual, but was being drop. seriously challenged by the non-Mormon Liberal Samuel Newhouse made his multi-million­ Party. The mayor and council chose to build on the dollar fortunein freightingand mining. Son of vacant comer west of City Hall, where the Federal Russian-Jewish immigrants, he grew up in New Yark Building is now, and estimated the building to cost City and earned a law degree there beforeheading $150,000. By the time the foundationwas in place, west and is said to have been successfulin part $22,000 had been spent. The Liberal Party candidates because of his flamboyance. He and his wife, Ida, formayor and the City Council in 1990 blasted the typifiedthe frenetic 1890s, shuttling between project as an extravagantwaste of taxpayers' money. mansions in Salt Lake City, Long Island, London, and Voters agreed and Salt Lake City had its first non­ Paris. After a number of financialreversals, Mormon mayor and city council. Once in office they Newhouse was forcedinto bankruptcy, and he and Ida reversed themselves fora time and work continued. separated in 1915. Newhouse then lived for a few Then the work stopped. Cost estimates had doubled to years in his nearbyNewhouse Hotel but eventually $300,000. The architectwas firedand work stopped leftfor Paris where he died in 1930. (The Newhouse forfive months. Influentialpersons wanted the Hotel, also I I -stories, was a 300-room hotel with a building moved to its present location, and they had replica of the Louis XV Room at Versailles, located allies in the Liberal Party. Now it was the People's on the southwest cornerof Main and 400 South. It Party's tum to rail against lavish spending. went into gradual decline and was demolished in the New architectural competition was 1980s. It is now a parking lot.) Ida lived in the announced and a local firmwon with a Richardsonian Belvedere Apartments (next to the Social Hall, #15, Romanesque design.The current site was selected by built in 1919) beforeshe moved to the Beverly Hills March, 1991. The foundation at First South remained Hotel. for years and was a source of derision against local government. The estimated cost of construction had 54. COMMERCIAL CLUB. This impressive 6- risen to $377,978. Trouble startedimmediately. The story Second Renaissance Revival building was ground was too soft, filled with clay and quicksand. constructed in 1909 at a cost of nearly $400,000 and The footingscost $40,000 more than expected. The was intended by its architects as a smaller version of city preferred hiring married men, paying $2.25 for the New York City Athletic Club. Its polychromatic laborers and $4.50 forstone cuttersper day. One city terra-cotta panels of colorfulmosaics make it easily councilman charged discriminationagainst single one of the most attractivecommercial structuresin men. Arguments erupted over pay and workers often the downtown area. A basement swimmingpool is no went on strike.No Mormon dignitary was invited to longer used. Today the building houses a private the cornerstonelaying in 1892. The depression of nightclub and offices. 1893 complicated matters. Unemploymentin Utah was 20 percent. Workers were sometimes paid in 55. SALT LAKE STOCK AND MINING script and worked reduced hours so more workers EXCHANGE. This Neo-Classical Revival, 2-story, could find could work. Two elaborate fountains and T-shaped, sandstone building was constructedin 1908 eighteen stained glass windows were scrapped. The to house a stock exchange. Organized in 1888, the building was dedicated Dec. 28, 1894. The city and exchange dealt almost exclusively in mining and county both bonded in order to pay offthe finalcosts petroleum stock and operated by open auction system. amounting to more than $900,000 and Wilford In 1897 seats sold for$16; two yearslater they soId Woodruff,Mormon president, was invited to offera for $400. The exchange was busy trading uranium prayer. The county retired its bonds in 1926, paying a 13

total of$852,000. The city didn't finish paying its Underground tunnels connect the apartments with portion until 1954. By then it had spent $1.5 million. Temple Square and the church's Administration On March 13, I 934, an earthquake of Building. magnitude 6.1 shook northern Utah andseverely Notice a portionof the original wall damaged the City/County Building. It was during the surrounding Brigham Young's compound on your left. depression; minor repairs were made and business continued. A courageous decisionwas made in the 59. PIONEER MEMORIAL CEMETERY 1970s to spend the $30 million necessary to (Brigham Young's Grave). Ten persons are buried extensively renovate the building and retrofit it on here, including fivewives, a son, a daughter, and two base-isolation springs to minimize future earthquake grandchildren. Two popular Mormon hymns, "O My damage. Work was finally completed in 1989. Father" and "Come, Come Ye Saints," and their The facesand figures of men and women authors are remembered, also. Both hymns reflect important to Utah's history can be found in the Mormon beliefs and attitudes. exterior stone work, as well as Masonic symbols of brotherhood, sacrifice, and eternity. Nearly 300 trees 60. JOSEPH RAWLINS HOUSE. Joseph Rawlins of forty-fivevarieties enhance the IO-acre grounds was a "Jack Mormon" (lapsed) son of a Mormon that at various times served as a stopping place for bishop who had a successful law practice and was emigrants, a hay market, a roundup point forcattle elected a U.S. congressman in 1892. He is credited drives, and a baseball diamond. Free tours are with having achieved statehood for Utah (1896). His available twice a week (call aheadfor times) or guide Victorian Italianate home is best known for its 2- yourself around. story, slanted bay windows with bowed eave. Notice also the oxbow lintels. The retaining wall outside the 57. PROMISED VALLEY PLAYHOUSE (First home is original andhelps to enclose the campus of Orpheum Theater, 1905). This was the city's first Rowland Hall - St. Marks Episcopal school. quality vaudeville theater and was connected to the second (see #8) by tunnels underground. Notice the 61. PRISCILLA JENNINGS HOUSE. After her 12-foot statue of Venus on top andrelief male and millionaire husband andmayor William passed away, female heads over the entrance. The fa�adewas Priscilla, a polygamous wifeand prominent leader in designed by architect Carl Neuhausen who also the women's Relief Societyorganization, had this designed the Keams mansion (see#77) and the Neo-Classical Revival Style house built about 1901. Cathedral of the Madeleine (see# 73). The interior is Note the two gabled bays, the pediments with equally festive. The LDS church restored this theater modillions, the heavy cornice and

5:30 p.m.; tours 1:00 p.m. Notice the etched window transoms and wrought iron doors. This showpiece was designed by Frederic Hale 74. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. Built in and built in 1900 for David Keith, an immigrant from 1906, this Scottish-influenced Gothic Revival church Nova Scotia, who was partner with Thomas Kearns is noted for its red sandstone exterior, quarried from (his neighbor and fellow Canadian in the next block) Red Butte Canyon, its prominent rectangular tower, in Park City's Silver King mine. and stained glass windows. It was designed after the The interior is equally impressive. The medieval cathedralat Carlisle, complete with original skylight on the second floor mezzanine came crenelated bastions. It has an artesian well in the from Tiffany's of New York City, as did most of the basement. Construction was overseen by Utah chandeliers. Other features include a cathedral-like architect Walter Ware. Open for services only, octagonal rotunda, a ballroom, and a wine cellar. The Sundays 8:30 a.m. and 11 :00 a.m. butler's pantry was equipped with a warming table The Presbyterian church started schools through which hot water circulated. A walk-in wherever they could and staffed them with refrigerator was cooled by one ton of ice. In the teacher/missionaries. Mormons attended in large laundry, wet clothes were hung in a closet through numbers as they frequently had better teachers or which hot air circulated. curriculum. Presbyterians also established At the street curb in front of the mansion are Westminster College on 1300 East and 1900 South well preserved stone carriage steps and a horse hitch. and provided funding and control until recently. A grand carriage house to the east, set back fromthe Actress Maude Adams was a student here. street behind an entrance bracketed by stone bowl­ shaped planters, was built to include a bowling alley, 75. ENOS WALL MANSION (411). Enos, a shooting gallery, and servant's quarters. mining magnate who helped develop an ore reduction While Keith and Kearns were employed by process at the Bingham Copper Mine, was non­ the Woodside Mine in Park City, they noticed that the Mormon and opposed to polygamy. As a Mason and vein of ore extended to a neighboring property, which president of the Alta Club, he saw to it that Mormons they purchased and developed on their own. Not as were excluded fromthese institutions. Ironically, his successful in his personal lifeas in business, Keith's mansion now houses the LDS Business College. first wife reportedly left him for another man, and his Daniel Jackling (see #82) betteredhim in processing youngest daughter bore his adopted son's child. For low-grade ore successfully and became his enemy in the rest of her life she wore a heavy black veil and the process. rarely left the house, eventually committing suicide. Designed by Richard Kletting and The house was bought in 1914 by Mayor Ezra constructed around an existing brick house built by Thompson, later renovated by Terracor land Mormon Abraham Smoot before he became a U.S. developers. senator, Wall's $300,000 renaissance villa contained fireplaces in all six bedrooms, a ballroom on the third 77. THOMAS KEARNS (GOVERNOR'S) floor, and a rooftoppromenade. Unnoticeable behind MANSION (603). This French-inspired the veneer is reinforcedconcrete - the first residence Chateauesque mansion was designed by Carl in Utah to utilize this medium. Wall's mansion was Neuhausen (also Cathedral of the Madeleine) and sold to the Jewish Community Center in 1926, resold built in 1902 with a limestone exterior and exotic in 1950 to an insurance agency, and finally purchased imported wood interior. Chateauesque prevailed by the LOS church in 1961. Other buildings were among the wealthy duringthe gilded age of "robber added in 1962 when it became LDS Business College. barons," beginning with William Vanderbilt. Through the efforts of a recent president the mansion Highlights include the three-story, round, comer itself has been restored. towers, the front portico supported by marble columns, rounded dormers, and oolitic chimneys. On 76. DAVID KEITH MANSION (529). This Neo­ the south side notice the balcony colonnade and Classical REVIVAL limestone masterpiece recalls a rococo window trim. On theeast side, two relief Greek temple with its central block and symmetrical images of Atlas appear to supportthe weight of the wings, massive columns supporting a broad pediment, cornice. double portico, andstone foundation and balustrades. On the interior, a large reception hall in 16

French oak boasts a mosaic floorof hand-cut marble, Prussian immigrant, owned a downtown shop that and the dining room exhibits Russian mahogany walls sold "groceries, cigars, and tobacco." He was a and ceiling. A multi-headed shower closet was among founderof Congregation B'Nai Israel and helped the technical innovations in the mansion, which also organize the Liberal Party. He built this 2.5-story included three vaults forjewels, silver, and wine. brick Victorian Queen Anne with rusticated stone Neighbors commented that a ton of coal was required trim in 1889. It is known forits fancywoodwork. It daily in winter forheat. Faulty wiring of a Christmas has been recently renovated into an inn favoredby treein 1993 led to a tragic firethat caused millions of newly-weds. Each room has its own sauna, king-size dollars in damage. Normally open to the public bed, large-screen TV, and is uniquely decorated (train Tuesday afternoons,June through October. room, modem, carriage, sea, etc.). Thomas Kearnsimmigrated fromCanada and married his partner John Judge's niece (see #50). 81. MORRIS EVANS HOUSE (701). This ivy­ Kearn'swife and children lived several years in covered English Tudor Revival house, with a water Switzerland aftera kidnapping threat. Aftera visit to tank in the attic forindoor flushing toilets, was built the mansion in1903, - whom in 1911 forMorris Evans. The house has two marble Keams resembled in appearance - commented m a bathrooms. Evans made his fortunein cattle and coal, friendthat the guest list at Kearn'shome included a but his passion was sports. He owned a sporting Catholic bishop and a Mormon polygamist apostle goods store, sponsored bicycle races, andhelped with a plural wife.In addition to Kearns's mining underwrite the Salt Lake Bees, the city's firstbaseball fortune, he served as a U.S. senator and publisher of team (Triple A, PacificCoast League). The Bees the Salt Lake Tribune newspaper. In 1918 he was moved to Californiato become the Hollywood Stars fatally hit by a car on Main Street. in 1925 but returnedin 1958 to be managed by Enid Cosgriff,the country's firstfemale manager. 78. MATTHEW WALKER MANSION (610). This mansion was built in 1904 forMatthew, co­ 82. DANIEL JACKLING HOUSE. This founderwith his brothers of Walker Bank, by surprisingly modest Colonial Revival house, designed Frederic Hale, who also designed the Keith Mansion by Walter Ware and built in the 1890s forWilliam across the street. Notice the mansion's red tile roof, Sherman, was acquired in 1904 by Daniel Jackling, arched colonnade, cream-colored stucco exterior, and one of the wealthiest men in the state. The house was broad balcony. In the foyer,Walker had an Aeolian reportedly acquired forhis mistress. The "Copper organwith pipes extending to the third floorwhere a Prince," as Jackling wasknown, became a multi­ Tiffany's skylight and chandelier graced the ceiling. millionaire developing Bingham Canyon after Enos Other luxuries included a wine cellar, bowling alley, Wall, discoverer, was unable to extractthe mineral and stable. fromlow-grade ore. A graduate of Missouri School of Mines, Jackling inventeda successfulseparation 79. MASONIC TEMPLE (650). Built in 1926 the process (making a life-longenemy of Wall, see #75). architectural style - evident in the massive rectangular A statue of Jackling stands in the state capitol form,the pairof sphinx at the entrance,the papyrus rotunda. blossom columns, rope molding, and winged solar Jackling was Utah's most famous playboy. disk of Horus - is Egyptian Revival. Even the flagpole He reportedly courted several life-longlovers, bases bear papyriformembellishment. Also notice the financeda Commercial (now Regent) Streetbrothel, Masonic compass and square in the frieze. To the and hosted extravagant parties on his private railroad right of the entrance, behind papyrus blossom vases, a cars and luxury yachts. Jacklingdivided his evenings ramp leads to a small door with Horus and scarab between this house and Hotel Utah, which he helped reliefs through which caskets are passed after fund. He later moved to San Francisco, where he funerals. The interior includes a 1,400-seat occupied the Mark Hopkins penthouse. auditorium, an Aztec banquet hall, and fraternallodge rooms in Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish, and American 83. UNIVERSITY OF UT AH AND FORT Colonial styles. DOUGLAS. The Universityof Utah was chartered in 80. EMMANUEL KAHN HOUSE (678). Kahn, a 1850 as the University ofDeseret, though lack of 17

funds kept the school closed from 1852 until 1869 as to make you realize the enormity of , when John Park was namedthe first president. Park suffice it that I found them a community of traitors, held an M.D. fromNew York University andunder murderers, fanatics, and whores. The people publicly his leadership the school became a legitimate rejoice at the reverse to our arms and thank God that institution of higher learning. He retired before the the American government is gone, as they term it, school changed its name or moved to its current while their prophet and bishops preach treason from location. The first librarywas completed in 1900 and the pulpit. Federal officers are entirelypowerless and contained 13,000 volumes. The first two buildings on talk in whispers for fear of being overheard by the hill (President's Circle) were designed by Richard Brigham's spies. Brigham Young rules with despotic Kletting in 1899 and 1901. sway and death by assassination is the penalty of FortDou2Jas - originally Camp Douglas, disobedience to his command." named in honor of Stephen A. Douglas - is a 120-acre Conner wantedto arrest Young but could not Civil War garrison founded in 1862 by the Third receive permission from San Francisco. Undeterred, California Volunteer Infantry ordered here to defend he trained his cannons on Young's house downtown mail routes and telegraph lines and assure that Utah and temporarily stationed guards a block away from remain in the Union. They had been ordered to Ft. Young's house. Connor began the firstdaily Crittenden (previously Camp Floyd, Utah War), but newspaper in the territory, the Union Vedette, which Conner said conditions there were unacceptable (too propagandizedthe northern view of the war and run-down, too far from Salt Lake City). He moved his encouraged non-Mormonsto immigrate to Utah to troops to the east bench of Salt Lake City, claiming a exploit mineral wealth, which Conner felt would section of land two miles square with headquarters in "revolutionize the odious system of church the exact middle. At first troops were quartered in domination which has so long bound down a deluded tents and dugouts, but these were quickly replaced by and ignorantcommunity." Connor's troops were Jog andadobe structures. assigned prospecting missions, and they found rich Later the fortheld "prisoners of war" - 300 silver veins in Little Cottonwood Canyon (Alta) to the German nationals found living in the United States at east and Bingham Canyon (Kennecott Copper) to the the outbreak of World War I, along with socialists, west. pacifists, and an assortment of "radicals." During MeanwhileBrigham Young ordered the World War II, Germans, Italians, and Japanese were mayor to declarethe camp a nuisance because of its confined, some of whom are interred in the fort proximity to the city water supply (water from Red cemetery. After Pearl Harbor, the U.S. Army's Ninth Butte Creek was preempted leaving the north and east Service Commandtransferred here fromthe San end of the city without water), but this scheme failed. Francisco Presidio forgreater security. Much of this Demonstrating the contempt Conner feltfor Young, history is capturedin museum presentations. Im Conner had his soldiers break into the city jail to museum tours: Tuesday - Saturday, 10:00 a.m. - release a comrade who had been arrestedfor assault. 4:00 p.m. (closed for lunch). Meanwhile Young established a ring of informers to Patrick Connor. Patrick Edward Conner monitor activity at the fortand report church was born in Kerry, Ireland, immigrated, and enlisted members suspected of conducting business with in the U.S. army at age nineteen. In the war with Connor. Women seen near the camp were Mexico (1846) he became a captain, was wounded, excommunicated. Ironically, like Col. Albert S. and discharged to join the "California gold rush, later Johnston before him, Connor and Young never met. becoming postmasterof Stockton, California. In May, ThatConner and his troops were trigger­ 1852, he was one of twenty select men (Calif. happy is indicated by the murder of four Shoshone Rangers) chosen to apprehend Mexican bandit, Indians caught stealing horses in 1862, their first year Joaquin Murietta. Muriettasuffered ten or eleven in the territory. The Indians returnedthe favor, wounds before Conner delivered the fatal shot. murdering a group of miners. Connor retaliated by When the Civil War erupted in 1861, Conner leading his troops on a midnight march to Bear River, reenlisted. Arriving in Utah, Colonel Connor's first attacking an Indianencampment there and leaving reportto his commanding officerin San Francisco 300 men, women, andchildren dead and seventy foreshadowed hostility: "It would be impossible for tepees destroyed. This action resulted in Connor's me to describe what I saw and heard in Salt Lake. So [brevet] promotion to brigadier general. 18

He was offeredthe rank of Colonel, turnedit City blocks were ten acres in size, divided up into down, and mustered out of the military to pursue eight lots, each lot being 1.25 acres in size. City lots mininginterests. He foundedthe town of Stockton stopped at 900 South. Further south was considered (Tooele County, named afterhis previous hometown "The Big Field" and was agricultural, not residential of Stockton, Calif.), made a pretty good living, died property. The firstblocks south were divided into S­ in Utah, and is buried in the Ft. Douglas cemetery in a acre plots, 100 acres to the block. Still furthersouth prominent spot. were I 0-acre plots. Five-acre plots extended 2100 Cemetery. The cemetery contains the South. Blocks were 2-streets wide and 4-streets long. remains of PatrickConner, those killed in the Battle The lone surviving block, intact, is now Liberty Park, of Bear River, along with hundreds of other veterans, which was purchased by Salt Lake City from past and present. There is also an impressive Brigham Young's estate, which had title to the full monument to the Germanprisoners of World Wars I 100 acres. and II that died or were killed here. The Chase Mill. The pond in the park is fed Research Park. Used forresearch in by Emigration Creek and, in pioneer times, a branch computer graphics, bio-medicine, and bio-chemistry. of Red Butte Creek. At their confluencethe "old Land is leased by the University of Utah to any Chase Mill" was built in 1852. This adobe and lime company willing to conduct on-going research. Snake mortar mill is the oldest surviving mill in the valley. venom, artificial heart, cold fussion, andresearch on Brigham Young was a partnerin the mill. the perfect treeis or has been done here. Northwest Isaac Chase House. Built in 1854 and Pipeline built such an energy efficient building that badly in need of repairs, this home belonged to mill the air-conditioning must be turned on in winter, foreman, Isaac Chase. The original baking ovens in sometimes, because of the heat buildup fromordinary the basement areespecially interesting. It is now light. houses the museum of Utah Folk Art. Open daily in Tenth Ward Chapel (800 East between 400 summer, 12:00 - 5:00 p.m. and 500 South). This is the oldest chapel in Seven Canyons Fountain. Philanthropist continuous use in the city. O.C. Tanner offeredthe city $250,000 on a matching basis to build this unique fountainthat has Utah Lake 84. WILFORD WOODRUFF FARMHOUSE on one end, the Great Salt Lake on the other, AND VILLA (1604, 1622 S 500 E). The Wilford connected by the Jordan River. Into the Jordan flow Woodrufffamily compound began in 1860 as a 2- the seven creeks that flowfrom the mountains to the room log cabin, which expanded as more children east. Where possible, native vegetation and rock from were bornto become this 2-story stuccoed structure those seven canyons was used in the fountain. Mr. with a rear saltbox extension. It was built on the bank Tanner remembered playing in the streams as a child of Parley's Creek, almost exactly where the first in the valley and wanted to provide the same group of pioneers on July 22, 1847, camped before experience forfuture generations. His creation did moving two miles north to plant crops. Woodruff, a exactly what he envisioned. You will see children Mormon apostle and later church president, served as having a wonderfultime playing inthe various president of the Utah Horticultural Society and the streams and lakes. Deseret Agricultural andManufacturing Society. It was here on twenty acres of ground (four 10-acre plots) that he planted and experimented with a variety of crops. Next door to the south, more than thirty years later, Pres. Woodruffbuilt his VictorianQueen Ann villa. A stone in the frontgable fai;:ade is carved with his name and the year, 1891. He died two years later. The Box Style house to the south was built by his son, Asahel Hart Woodruff,in 1907. Woodruff property extended west to 300 East Street.

85. LIBERTY PARK, MILL, CHASE HOUSE. SALT LAKE CITY - "This is the Place!" (Background Infonnation, Dale Morgan's The Great Salt Lake)

Significant Events in or around the Salt Lake Valley 1776 Catholic Fathers Dominguez and Escalante follow the Old Spanish Trail. Miera's map indicated a Buenaventura River draining the Great Basin to the Pacific Ocean. 1823 John H. Weber, one of Ashley's group, discovered Weber Canyon and River. 1824 Provost entered the valley from Taos (New Mexico). 1824 (Late fall) Jim Bridger followed the BearRiver from Cache Valley to the Salt Lake Valley. 1825 (May 20) Peter Skene Ogden entered valley from north as head of the Snake River Expedition forthe Hudson's Bay Company. 1826 Four of Ashley's men (James Clyman, Louis Vasquez, Henry Fraeb, and possibly Black Harris) circumnavigate the Great Salt Lake in 40 days. No outlet from the lake found. 1827 Jedediah Smith, coming back from Southern California came through Skull VaJley with Evans and Gobel. (1828) Ogden located, followed and named the Marys River afterhis Indian wife. Fremont, in 1845, went down the same river and named it the Humboldt aftera famous German scientist. (1832) Nathaniel Wyeth (later established Fort Hall) met Army Captain Bonneville by the Salmon River. Bonneville had taken 20 wagons over South Pass to the Green Riverand built a fort that the mountain men named "Fort Nonsense." ( 1833) Bonneville got as close to the Great Salt Lake as the Bear Lake rendezvous. He sent a group under Joe Walker to explore the Jake, but they ended up in California andreturned along Marys River and never saw the lake. Nevertheless, the captain identifiedthe lake on subsequent maps with his name. (Self advertisingpaid off; at least the ancient lake now bears his name.) (1834) Wyeth established FortHall (named afterone of his backers, Henry Hall). 1840 (Dec) Osborne Russel, who helped Wyeth build Fort Hall in 1834, camped with a few French Canadians and half­ breeds below the confluence of theWeber and Ogden Rivers. 1841 (Feb-Mar) Russel spent time with the Indian, Wanship, where Salt Lake City is. They chatted and hunted together. Wanship's son spent the winter on Antelope Island. 1841 (Aug) The Bidwell-Bartleson company with 32 men, includingBenjamin Kelsey, with his wife and baby andnine wagons, came down the Bear River to the Great Salt Lake. They went north of the lake. Two days before the springs at Pilot Peak, Kelsey abandoned his wagon. The rest of the company abandoned their wagons at the base of the Pequops mountains in Nevada. 184 l (Fall) Osborne Russel, with two friends, returned to Bear River delta to hunt. Then returned to Fort Hall. 1842 (Spring) Russel made his last visit to the Great Salt Lake. Hunting had changed. The beaver were gone. Only the bones of dead buffaloremained of this once plentiful beast. He would no longer come here to hunt. 1843 Fremont boated to Fremont Island (he called it "DisappointmentIsland"). He was following the Oregon Trail and took a detourto see the Great Salt Lake. 1844 Returning from Southern California, Fremont followed the Spanish Trail to Utah Lake but failed to far enough north to realize the relationship between Utah and Great Salt Lakes. He traveled3,500 miles and foundno Buenaventura River. 1845 Fremont entered Utah from the south along the White River (southof the Colorado), through Spanish Fork Canyon, the Salt Lake Valley, andpioneered the trail to the Humboldt River that became known as the "Hastings Cutoff." 1846 Miles Goodyear, the red-haired, independent mountain man, established Fort Buenaventura in a grove of treesjust above the confluence of the Ogden and Weber Rivers. 1846 (Spring) Hastings, Hudspeth, Clyman, and a fewothers follow Fremont's trail east. 1846 John McBride's father's group was told by Joe Walker at Fort Bridger (Joe was driving 400-500 Calif. horses east) that the Salt Lake Valley would be an excellent place to settle because of good land, good water, good climate, and no Indians. A fewcurious ones in the group detoured at Soda Springs andfollowed the Bear River to the Great Salt Lake. They saw Ft. Buenaventura and City Creek before catching up to their group at Ft. Hall. Walker said he did not have a good opinion of the new Salt Lake cutoff. 1846 (July 17) With Hudspeth as guide the Bryant-Russel pack train, including three men from the Harlan-Young wagon train, leave Ft. Bridger and head forthe Weber River. They arethe first to take the "Hastings Cutoff. They follow Lost Creek Canyon west to the Weber River by Croyden, detour to East Canyon, north to Morgan, and down the Weber River past Devil's Gate. Once in the valley they do not see Goodyear's fort hidden in the trees. 2

1846 (Hours later) The Harlan-Young wagon train, numbering 40 wagons, was led by Hastings from Ft. Bridger down Echo Canyon to the Weber River. Hudspeth returnedfrom the valley with two men and meet Hastings at the mouth of Echo Canyon. They proceed down the Weber River. 1846 (A few days later) The Hoppe-Lienhard group of young men and light wagons leftthe Ft. and followed the tracks leftby the Harlan-Young train all the way to Ogden and Salt Lake with little difficulty. 1846 (July 27) T.H. Jefferson'sgroup leftthe Ft. and followedeveryone ahead. By forcedmarching they caught the proceeding trains at Adobe Rock in Tooele Valley, Aug. 8th. All the wagons that would follow Hastings Cutoffthis year, except the Donner-Reed party, were now together, perhaps 66 in number. 1846 (July 31) Afterresting at Ft. Bridger three days, the Donner-Reed partywith 23 wagons, including the "Palace," headed for Echo Canyon and the Weber River. (Aug 6) They find a note in a cleftstick by the side of the trailon the Weber River. Hastings advised against going down the river, especially with Reed's wagon. (Aug 8) Riding hard enough to almost kill their horses, Reed, Pike, and Stanton catch up to Hastings at Adobe Rock after 10 p.m. (Aug 9) Hastings returnedto Parley'sCanyon with Reed. (Aug 10) Hastings wanted to returnto his group but is persuaded to climb to the top of the hill (Big Mountain). He explained as best he could which way Reed's group should go. l day They travel up Main Canyon to the head of Dixie Hollow (6 miles). 2 days They travel down Dixie Hollow, around Broad Hollow, to East Canyon Creek. 8 days Cross East Canyon Creek 13 times in 8 miles and climb 4 miles up Big Mountain to the summit (Aug 21). They are overtaken on the 6th day by the 3 wagons of the Graves family. 8 days They can't get through Parley's Canyon. They ascend over LittleMountain and, at the mouth of Emigration Canyon, they climb the brutal Donner Hill rather than cut more trees and bushes in the mouth of the canyon.They camp in future Salt Lake City, Aug. 29. They leftFt. Bridger 14 days behind Hastings. They are now 23 days behind and exhausted.

Mormon Settlement in Utah (Yearly Summaries in bold print follow yearly dates) (B.H. Robert's L.D.S. Chronologyand Dale Morgan, Utah Historical Quarterly, July, 1959)

1846 day organizing the camps of the Saints. At this time the Early in the year the Saints commenced to leave camp consisted of fourhundred wagons, very heavily Nauvoo, fleeing from the mob, which later drove the loaded. The teams were too weak for rapid journeying. remnants out and took forciblepossession of the city. Most of the families had provisions forseveral months, Plans call forremoval to the Rocky Mountains. The some were quite destitute. Nauvoo Temple was dedicated. While traveling March 1846 During the month thecamps of the through Iowa, the exiled Mormons were called upon Saints inIowa traveled about one hundred miles. The to raise five hundred men to participate in the war roads were almost impassablemost of the way, and the with Mexico. Slow travel through Iowa kept them Saints sufferedmuch fromcold and exposure, the from pushing further west. Winter Quarters is weatherbeing very windy and stormy. established on the Missouri River. June 14 Pres. Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, January 13 140 horses and 70 wagons were Geo. Miller and Parley P. Prattarrived on the banks of reported ready forimmediate service. the Missouri River, with theirrespective companies. A February 4 The Mormons, also referred to as ferryboat was built. Saints(a contraction from"Latter Day Saints," which 30 U.S. Army Capt. Allen arrived at Council itself derives fromthe real name of the church "The Bluffs,and on thefollowing day he met with the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-daySaints"), authorities of the church, showing his authority for commenced crossing the Mississippi River at Nauvoo for raising fivehundred volunteers fromthe camps of the the purpose of movingwest. Saints. The same day Pres. Young and Capt. Allen 15 Apostles Brigham Young, , and addressed the brethren who had assembled, and the Apostle Geo. A. Smith, with their families, crossed the general council voted unanimously to comply with the Mississippi River. They traveled nine miles, andcamped requisition fromthe government. on Sugar Creek, where Pres. Young spent the following July Fourteencompanies encamped on the bluffs 3

near the Missouri River. James Bridger who considered it imprudent to bring a 16 Four companies of the volunteers were brought large population into the Great Basin, until it could be together in a hollow square and mustered into service by ascertained that grain could be raised there. their respective captains. July 20, they commenced their July 20 Eighty-one members of the Battalion march towards Fort Leavenworth. On the 22nd the fifth re-enlisted for six months at Los Angeles. They were and last companyof the Mormon Battalion left. ordered to San Diego as a provost guard to protect the August l The Battalion, numbering 549 souls, citizens from Indian raids, etc. Those who did not including officers, privates and servants, arrived at Fort re-enlist, organized into companies for traveling, and Leavenworth. marched northeast. September 10 Thebattle of Nauvoo began. Thefew 21 Orson Pratt and went into the remaining Saintsat Nauvoo, of whom only about one valley, and a circuit of about twelve miles was made hundredand twenty-five were able to bear arms, were beforethey got back to camp at 9 p.m. Wrote Orson attacked by about eighteen hundred men, who with five Pratt, "Mr. Snow and myself ascended this hill (Donner pieces of artillery bombarded the city forseveral days. Hill at the mouth of Emigration Canyon), from the top of The attackers were prevented from entering Nauvoo by which a broad open valley, about twenty miles wide and the defenders who fired on the enemy with cannons made thirtylong, lay stretched out before us, at the north end of of steamboat shafts. which the broad water of Great Salt Lake glistened in the October 7 The teams which were sent back to help sunbeams, containing high mountainous islands from the poor away from Nauvoo, arrived at the Mississippi twenty-five to thirty miles in extent. After issuing from River, opposite Nauvoo. The camp of the poor was the mountains among which we had been shut up for organized and started West. Flocks of quails, a many days, and beholding in a moment such an extensive providential supply of food, visited the camp and were scenery open before us, we could not refrain from a shout easily caught. of joy which almost involuntarily escaped from our lips 13 Capt. P. St. George Cooke assumed command the moment this grand and lovely scenery was within our of the Mormon Battalion at Santa Fe, by order of General view." Kearney. The twopioneers descended the butte at the mouth of December Winter Quarters, afterwards known as the canyon, and proceeded over the gentle declivity of the Florence, Nebraska, consisted at this time of 538 log east slopes of the valley to a point on one of the several houses and 83 sod houses, inhabited by 3,483 souls, of streams that enter from the east range of mountains, whom 334 were sick and 75 were widows. There were where tall canes were growing, "which looked like 814 wagons, 145 horses, 29 mules, 388 yoke of oxen and waving grain." The course they had followed bore a little 463 cows. Theplace was divided in 22 Wards, each southwestward, and on reaching the stream(Parley's presided over by a Bishop. TheWard on the east side of Creek) they remembered that the instructions of President the river contained 210 souls. Young had been to tum to the north on emerging into the 1847 valley and thereplant theirseeds. The Mormon Battalion arrived in California. The Accordingly they turned northwardfrom this point, vanguard company of pioneers, under the leadership designing to reach anotherstream that they could see of Pres. Brigham Young, crossed the plains and emerging from a canyon into the valley, along the course mountains to the valley of the Great Salt Lake, where of which a few scattered cottonwood trees and they founded Great Salt Lake City. After the return underbrushgrew. The two pioneers had but one horse to the Missouri River the First Presidency of the between them, so that they walkedand rode in turns. Church was reorganized. About two thousand souls Orson Prattwalked northwardalone until he arrived at and nearly six hundred wagons arrived in G. S. L. the south branch of City Creek and thus became the first Valley in the fall. of the pioneers to stand upon the present site of Salt Lake April 16 The pioneer company was organized with City. He later described his feelings: "I gazed on the 73 wagons, 143 men, 3 women and2 children--148 souls. surrounding scenery with peculiar feelings in my heart. I 16 Capt. Brown's sick detachment of the Monnon felt as though it was the place for which we had so long Battalion reached Ft. Laramie, and continued the sought." following day westward, intending, if possible, to 22 Two groups entered the valley this day. A party overtake the pioneers, who had passed twelve days of nine, headed this time by Orson Pratt and Geo. A. before. Smith rode out into the valley to explore it, directingthe June 27 The pioneers crossed the South Pass of the main camp to proceed with the road making down into Rocky Mountains. On the followingday they met Capt. the valley. 4

Arrivingat the gorge at the entrance of the valley, a light thunder shower. Pratt's exploring party concluded that by cutting away the 24 Brigham Young's Group. On the 22nd this rear thick timber and underbrush, together with some digging, division of the camp (15 wagons) made but four miles, a better and saferroad could be made than the one which Elder Woodruffdeclares to be the worst fourmiles leading over the steep and dangerous hill passed over by of the journey. The next day President Young passed the Donner party the previous year. A note calling the over Big Mountainand fromits summit he had a view of attention of the working camp to this factwas leftin a part of Salt Lake Valley. "I ascended and crossed over conspicuous place, and the explorers moved on. "For the Big Mountain, when on its summit 1 directed Elder three or fourmiles north," writes Orson Pratt, "we found Woodruff, who kindly tendered me the use of his the soil ofa most excellent quality. Streamsfrom the carriage, to tum the same halfway round, so that I could mountains and springs were very abundant, the water have a view ofa portion of Salt Lake Valley. The Spirit excellent, and generally with gravel bottoms. A very of Light rested upon me, and hovered over the valley, and great variety ofgreen grass, and very luxuriant, covered l felt that there the saints would find protection and the bottoms formiles where the soil was sufficiently safety. We descended and encamped at the foot of the damp, but in other places, although the soil was good, the Little Mountain. grass had nearly dried up forwant ofmoisture. We. "I started early this morning(24th) and aftercrossing foundthe drier places swarming with very large crickets, Emigration Canyon Creek eighteen times, emerged from about the size of a man's thumb. This valley is the canyon. Encamped with the main body at 2 p. m. surrounded with mountains, except on the north: the tops About noon, the five-acrepotato patch was plowed, when of some of the highest being covered with snow. Every the brethren commenced planting their seed potatoes. At one or two miles streams were emptying into it fromthe five, alight shower accompanied by thunder and a stiff mountains on the east, many ofwhich were sufficiently breeze." large to carry mills and other machinery. As we 25 Religious services were held. proceeded towards the Salt Lake (northwest) the soil 26 Brigham Young, with apostles Heber C. began to assume a more sterile appearance, being Kimball, Willard Richards, WilfordWoodruff, George probably at some seasons of the year overflowedwith A. Smith, EzraT. Benson, future apostle Albert water. We foundas we proceeded on, great numbers of Carrington,and company scribe William Clayton, hot springs issuing from or near the base ofthe climbed to the top of the knob hill, "Ensign Peak." mountains. These Springswere highly impregnated with There were tworeasons. First, the leader ofthe salt and sulphur: the temperature ofsome was nearly Church wanted to walk the land that he had seen in vision raised to the boiling point. We traveled forabout 15 miles in the Nauvoo Temple prior to coming west, according to aftercoming down into the valley the latter partof the George A. Smith, counselor to President Young. Young distance the soil being unfitfor agricultural purposes. believed that the peak he now stood on was the hill of his We returnedand foundour wagons encamped in the dream. valley, about fivemiles fromwhere they left the canon Second, Brigham wanted to get a view of the [canyon]." (The main group camped on thenorth side of countryside.To the north, they saw an arm ofthe lake Parley's Creek, between 1300 and 1700 South and 300 and mountainsstretching nearly a hundred miles. The and 600 East.) west had the toweringpeaks rising near the Utah and 23 The camp was moved two miles north and Nevada border. To the south the pioneers saw the Salt camped where the present city/county building is located. Lake Valley, hemmed by the Wasatch and Oquirrh Orson Pratt offereda prayer ofthanksgiving and of ranges. This hike confirmed President young's belief that dedication. Afterthis there was reenacted the scenes of this "was the right place" for the pioneers to stop and organized industrywe have witnessedat Mt. Pisgah and stay. GardenGrove in Iowa, andat the foundingof Winter That day the pioneers flewa banner ( or using Isaiah's Quarters--men divided into groups--some to clear the word an "ensign"), and in the process the hill came by its land preparatory to plowing; others to unpack and get name. Some people later said it was an American flag. ready the plows; others to care forthe stock and perfect More likely the make-shiftbanner was Elder Kimball's the camp arrangements. At the firstattempt at plowing yellow bandanna attached to Willard Richard's walking the ground was foundhard and dry, and several plows cane. The emblem was not so important as what it were broken in the effort. A company was set at work to symbolized. The hill became knownas "Ensign Peak" put a dam in the creek and flood the land--the beginning and has taken partof many annual celebrations. (A ofUtah irrigation. Several acres were plowed that nonprofit organization is trying to raise over $300,000 to afternoon,and towards evening the valley was visited by restore the peak to its original appearance and make it a 5

first class interpretive site by the state's Centennial "inheritances" was not practical in terms of the American celebration in 1996.) political and economic system; the settlers upon it could 27 Some Ute Indians visited the pioneer camp. The have no valid title until the Indian tide had been Twelve and a fewothers started west fromthe pioneer extinguished, formalsurveys made, and the land placed camp on an exploring expedition. Crossing the stream upon the market by the U.S. government. These things which formsthe outlet ofUtah lake, they named it the did not come to pass forseveral decades, and meanwhile Jordan River, and then proceeded to Black Rock, squatter titles developed in Utah as elsewhere. eighteen miles further, where the company took a bath in 3 Orson Pratt and Henry G. Sherwoodchained off the lake. three blocks south and three blocks west from the Temple 28 The exploring party returned to camp, a council Block, and on the site now called Pioneer Park the camp was held and the Temple Block located. Brigham began to lay the outer stockade wall, intended to be nine designated the spot where the pioneers would build feet high. another temple. That night Brigham inquiredof the 10 Within this adobe stockade log houses were assembled camp: "Shall we look further to make a commenced, using green timber cut in the adjacent location upon this spot and lay out and build a city?" It canyons. was voted that the city be erected where the camp now 18 Nearly halfofthe pioneers left G.S.L. Valley stood, and that Brigham and his brethren among the with ox teams, on their return to Winter Quarters fortheir Quorum of the Twelve should be a committee to lay out families. the city and to apportion the "inheritances" (lots). Young 26 The second company of returningpioneers left then said: "We propose to have the temple lot contain 40 for Winter Quarters. acres (later reduced to the current 10), to include the September 3 The returning Battalion boys, having ground we are now on - what do you say to that? All crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains, reached the place right? where the unfortunate Hastings company had perished 29 The sick detachment of the Mormon Battalion, the previous winter. A number of humanbodies were yet which had wintered at Pueblo, arrived in G.S.L. Valley, lying unburied on top of the ground. A few days later the accompaniedby the Saints from Mississippi. This soldiers were met by Samuel Brannan, James Brown and increased the number in camp to about four hundred others, on the Truckee River. Brannan broughtword souls. from Pres. Brigham Young for thosewho had no means August 1 A proposal to erect a stockade of of subsistence to remain in California and work during "adobes" to house the emigratingSaints the following the winter, andcome to the valley in the spring. About winter was accepted. half of the company then returned to California, got work 2 A survey of the city was commenced. at Sutter's Fort. There was nothing haphazard about theorigins of Salt 20 Harriet P. Young, Lorenzo's wife, gave birth to LakeCity. Ifever there was a plannedcommunity, it was a male child, namedLorenzo Dow. He died March 22, this one. Theplat itself was patternedafte r one originated 1848. This was the first white male child born in G.S.L. in 1833 by Joseph Smith, the Mormon Prophet. Streets, Valley. Harriet was not impressed with the Salt Lake as provided by this plat, were eight rods (132 feet) wide, Valley. Lrenzo sold out his interest inthe fortand made to run with the cardinaldirections and to cross at constructedthe frrsthouse (hewn log) on a city lot, where right angles, while the square blocks into which the land the Beehive House is now located (northwest comer of was divided were ten acres each, exclusive of the streets. State and South Temple Streets). He was called on the The southeast comer of this block was fixed as zero point carpetby local authorities but his wife was adamant for for beginning the survey of the city. (It was also used for health and other reasons. Lorenzo's explanation satisfied subsequent U.S. Land Office surveys, becoming the Salt the authorities and he was allowed to live outside the fort Lake Prime Meridian.) Street names were ordinal that winter. numbers as they emanated out following compass 1848 directions from this meridian. Gold was discovered in California by members of Some of the apostles had been allowed, in the the Mormon Battalion. Winter Quarterswas vacated summer of 1847, to select their own "inheritances," and most of the Saints who had spent the winter there mostly property frontingon the Temple Block, and at that removed to Great Salt Lake Valley. About one time Young had picked out for himself and family the thousand wagons arrived in the valley during the block immediately east of the Temple Square. year. Ogden was founded by Capt. James Brown and The structure thus given Salt Lake City lastingly others. influenced its development. To treatland indefinitely as January 24 Gold (about $40 worth that day) was 6

discovered in Sutter's mill race, which had been dug by The winter was severe. The heavy snow made it the Mormon Battalion boys. impossible to get firewood and animals could not forage. February 2 By the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, People ate wolves, hawks, crows, dogs, and animals that Mexico, Upper California, including what is now Utah, had been dead some time. Those with surplus food were was ceded to the United States. asked to give to the bishops to impart to the poor. The March 6 The G.S.L. City fort contained 423 houses harshness of winter, constant hunger, and a meager and 1,671 souls. The adjoining farming fieldconsisted of harvest the previous year and the pull of what some 5,133 acres of land, of which 875 acres were sown with called "Californiafever" created discontent and some winter wheat. loaded theirwagons and prepared to leave in spring. June Pres. Young startedfor G.S.L. Valley, with a Heber C. Kimball was moved upon to prophesy, ''Never company consisting of 1,229 souls and 397 wagons. He mind, boys, in less than one year there will be plenty of was followed by Heber C. Kimball's company of 662 clothes and everything that we shall want sold at less than souls and 226 wagons, and Willard Richard's company, St. Louis prices." Brighan Young also encouraged the consisting of 526 souls and 169 wagons. The last wagons people, "God has appointed this place for the gathering of leftWinter Quarters July 3rd, leaving that place almost His Saints, and you will do better right here than you will destitute of inhabitants. by going to the gold mines.... We have been kicked out of Myriads of big crickets came down fromthe the frying-paninto the fire,out of the fire into the middle mountains into G.S.L. Valley, and began to sweep away of the floor, and here we are and here we will stay.... As fieldsof grain and com. The grain, however, was mostly the Saints gather here andget strongenough to possess saved by the arrival of immense flocks of sea gulls, the land, God will temper the climate, and we shall build which devoured the crickets. a city and a temple to the Most High God in this place. 6 Capt. James Brown entered into negotiations with We will extend our settlements to the east and west, to Miles M. Goodyear, an Indian trader, located on the the north and to the south, and we will build towns and present site of Ogden City, for the purchase of all the cities by the hundreds, and thousands of the Saints will lands, claims and improvements, owned by Goodyear, by gather in fromthe nations of the earth .... We have the virtue of a [alleged] Spanish grant. Brown paid $3,000 finestclimate, the best water, and the purest air that can (he brought $5,000 in Mormon Battalion money from be foundon the earth;there is no healthier climate Calif. in January) for the improvements, and soon after anywhere. As forgold and silver, and the rich minerals of located himself there. the earth, there is no other countrythat equals this; but let August 9 The G.S.L. fort contained 450 buildings them alone; let others seek them, and we will cultivate and 1,800 inhabitants. There were three saw mills and the soil." one temporary flouring mill running, and others in course Main Streetbegan to take shape, with stores built on of construction. comers or anywhere else, on small and large plots of October I At a public meeting, it was voted to build land, and not twenty feetback fromthe sidewalk. Still the a council house by tithing labor, andDaniel H. Wells was ten acre blocks remained as the basic structureof the city, appointed superintendent of its erection. and until the pressure of population forced the expansion 1849 of Salt Lake into fringeareas, first in the late 1860's and Utah Valley and Sanpete Valley were settled. 1870's, up on the sloping north benches that were carved Ditches were dug. The cemetery laid out. G.S.L. into the small squares familiarly called the "Avenues," Valley was surveyed by Capt. Howard Stansbury and and later out beyond Ninth South Street, where blocks Lieutenant John W. Gunnison, according to order were laid out as oblongs (100 acre blocks, Liberty Park, from the government. The Perpetual Emigration forexample). Fund established. About fivehundred wagons and As earlyas the spring of 1849, ditches were dug along fourteen hundred immigrating Saints, in fivedifferent both sides of all streets to convey water diverted from the companies, arrived in the valley, besides a number of creeks, primarily, Cityand Red Butte Creeks. This water Californiaemigrants who, during their sojourn served alike for drinking, culinary, and irrigation among the Saints, were converted to "Mormonism" purposes. Not for some years did the settlers generally and remained in the valley. In consequence of the begin to put down wells, and it was manyyears before scanty harvest of 1848, breadstuff and other the increasing growth of Salt LakeCity impelled the provisions became very scarce in the valley, and many development of municipal (and ultimately sanitary)water of the people were compelled to eat raw hides and to supplies. Fencing, ditching, and the building and dig sego and thistle roots, formonths, upon which to maintenance of bridges across the ditches became a main subsist. preoccupation of bishops of the nineteen wards 7

( ecclesiasticaldistricts similarto parrishes, use of the speculation .... Farming land was divided and given out in word actually began in Illinois where cities are divided small parcels, so that all could have a proper proportion, into political wards) into which Salt Lake City was ... The enforcement of this rule made the settlementof the initially divided - these bishops being invested with the city andthe farming lands verycompact, and created a civil powers of magistrates - and that these bishops had community of interest which would not have been felt their troubles is abundantly reflected in the scoldings under other circumstances. periodically incorporated into the sermons of Brigham ... Farming land south of thecity was surveyedinto Young. five acre lots to accommodate mechanics and others who During the winter and springof 1849, the city would reside in the city. Next to the five acre lots the ten cemetery was laid out, an armorybuilt on the hill north of acre lots were laid out; then the twenty acres followed by the Brigham Young's property, andconstruction begun on the forty and eighty acre lots, upon which farmers could the Council House, the city's firstpublic building situated build and reside. All these were, for safety and present at the southwest corner of South Temple andM ain convenience, enclosed in one common fence, each owner Streets. Upon foundation and first storywalls constructed of land building in proportion to the amount he had in his of red sandstone, it had a second story of adobe, field, and the fence to be erected in such a manner as to surmountedby a cupola which makes it instantly be satisfactoryto men appointedto inspect and accept of recognizable in any early view of Salt Lake City. A fire it when completed." on June 21, 1883, destroyed not only this building, which MAIN STREET had served everypublic purpose, but the collection of the The very firststores to be built in Salt Lake City were great pioneer photographer, Charles R. Savage, in his not located on Main Street, but it was not long before this studioto the south. street became the chief commercial center of thecity. It will now be appreciated how young a settlement Not until 1849 was the firstregular stock of goods was that City of the Great Salt Lake into which poured a brought to Utah. James M. Livingston and CharlesA. host of California goldseekers beginning inJune, 1849. Kinkeadwith goods valued at $20,000 established their Among those recording their impressions was a store in the adobe house of John Pack in the Seventeenth Pittsburgher who, on July 22, 1849, spoke fora great Ward at the southwestcomer of First North and West many who would share his sentiments in timeto come: "I Temple. Thelocation was convenient to Union Square shall never forget the first sight of this valley. It shall [West High School] where many of the immigrants ever remain on my mind as the most beautiful spectacle I stopped temporarily upon theirarrival in the valley. ever beheld ... The Whole valley is surrounded by snow­ During 1850 they erected thefirst store building on Main capped mountains, forminga complete basin ... occupied Street, about a third of a block south of the Council by the Mormons, who build their houses entirely of sun House then being built on the southwest corner of Main dried bricks. Their city occupies more ground than and South Temple. The firm of Livingston and Bell, Pittsburgh, but each man has a large piece of ground successors to the firm of Livingston and Kinkead, built around his dwelling. The bridges are all good, the streets the old Constitution Building, the firsttwo-story and roads wide, and the fences very regular. commercial building in the city. George Q. Cannon, who became a Mormon apostle in That same year, 1850, the second mercantile firm, 1860, recalled the early city, "A united effortwas made Holliday and Warner, set up business in Salt Lake City. to fence the city. Instead offencing each lot separately, By the year 1854, as many as 8 stores were built on Main each ward [an area of nine square blocks] was fencedin Street and 6 more in other parts of thecity. one field, and each owner of a lot in a ward built his For a numberof years the east side of Main between proportionof the fence. Thismade the work of fencing South Temple and First South was occupied by the lots comparatively easy, and it answeredevery residences, including that of Bishop , purpose forseveral seasons. The streets were all kept Jedediah M. Grant, first mayor of Salt Lake and open, but not at theirpresent width. The owners of lots counselor to Brigham Young, and Ezra T. Benson cultivated the streets in front of their premises, leaving no [grandfatherof the Church President by the same name]. more than a sufficientspace fortravel. At the end of each Daniel H. Wells [second mayor of Salt Lake City, street leadingout of the ward into the mainthoroughfares counselor to Brigham Young, and Lt. General in the which ran around each ward, there were bars, which Nauvoo Legion or Territorial Militia-he was in charge of every one who passed in or out with a team or on 3,000 Mormon militia duringthe Utah War, 1857-58] horseback was required to be careful in putting up. There soon purchased the Benson home, thereafter known as was no monopoly of land allowed. No man was permitted the "Wells Mansion," where he lived formany years. to take up a city lot or farming land forpurposes of Later, on that same property, was built the Templeton 8

Hotel, then converted to officespace, and is the current 1850 location of Zion's First National Bank. In Utah Valley, where a number of new settlements It was on the Grant property that Z.C.M.I. [Zion's were founded during the year, the Saints had trouble Cooperative Mercantile Institution], America's first with the Indians. The firstmissions of the church departmentstore, was built in 1869. William Jennings, were opened in France, Italy and Denmark, Utah's first millionaire, built his Eagle Emporium on the Switzerland and in Hawaii (Sandwich Islands). The southwest comer of Main and First South. When Territory of Utah was created by act of Congress. Z.C.M.I. opened, Jennings purchased stock in the new January The British Mission contained about institution, and his Emporium became the firsthome of 28,000 Saints, having increased more than ten thousand the Z.C.M.I. during the last sixteen months. Apostle Parley P. Pratt's William S. Godbe, another extremelysuccessful companyexplored the southerncountry as far south as merchant, opened business on the southeast comer of the the mouth of the Santa Clara River, beyond the Rim of sameintersection. Soon the Walker brothers opened shop the Basin. south on the same block. 8 On this and the following day a battlewas fought For the firstseveral decades Main Streetwas between the "minute men" (Nauvoo Legion - Mormon definitely "small town." The unpaved roadway was dusty militia) and about seventy Indian warriors under Big Elk, in summer and muddy in winter. close to Utah Fort (now Provo), in which several were killed and wounded on both sides. The Indians retreated January l The first$1 bill of "Valley Currency" to the mountains. was signed by B. Young, H. C. Kimball and T. Bullock. June The water was higher in G.S.L. Valley than February 14 G.S.L. City was divided into nineteen ever beforesince the pioneers arrived. A number of ecclesiastical Wards of nine blocks each. The country bridges were washed away and other damage done. lying south of G.S.L. City into four Bishop's Wards, Emigrants en route to California passed through G.S.L. namely, Canyon Creek (afterwards Sugar House), Mill City almost daily. Creek, Holladay (afterwardsBig Cottonwood) and South 4 Parley's Canyon, Utah, was opened fortravel Cottonwood. under the name of the "Golden Pass;" Parley P. Pratt, March 8 A convention, which was held forthree proprietor. The toll was 75 cts. foreach conveyance days, a State constitution forthe proposed State of drawn by two animals, and l O cents for each additional Deseret was adopted. Almon W. Babbitt was soon after draught, pack or saddle animal,etc. The Newark sent as delegate to Congress, with a petition asking for Rangers, of Kendall County, III., was the firstcompany admission into the Union. to followApostle Pratt through the pass, which opened a 15 sold a peck of potatoes for $5 in new road through the mountains fromthe Weber River to G.S.L. City, which was considered cheap. G.S.L. Valley. April 9 By this time the people in the forthad 15 Apostle arrived fromKanesville, commenced to move out to their city lots. Iowa, and reported eight hundred wagons with June 16 Partiesfrom the east en route forthe "Mormon" emigrants organized forcrossing the plains. California gold mines began to arrivein the valley, and 28 Capt. Howard Stansbury andsuite, having during thesummer they traveled through by thousands. completed their surveys, leftthe City, on their return to (10,000 passed by the 6,000 living here.) They brought Washington, D.C. all kinds of merchandise, wagons, tools and farming September 9 Theact of Congress providing for implements, etc., which were sold to the Saints below the organizationof the Territory of Utah was approved. original cost, in exchange for provisions. The original size was about 225,000 square miles, being July 21 The firstendowment in G.S.L. Valley was bounded on the north by Oregon, east by the summit of given to Addison Pratt on EnsignPeak. the Rocky Mountains, south by the 37th parallel of north 28 Captain Howard Stansbury and party of latitude, and west by California. surveyors arrivedin the valley, accompanied by Lt. John 20 Brigham Young was appointed governorof Utah W. Gunnison. Territory: BenjaminD. Harris, of Vermont, secretary; October 6 The PerpetualEmigration Fund, P.E.F. Joseph Buffmgton,of Pennsylvania, chief justice; Perry (poor people were assisted withexpenses and were C. Brocchus, of Alabama, and Zerubbabel Snow, of supposed to pay the loan back, without interest, as soon Ohio, associate justices; Seth M. Blair, of Utah, U.S. as possible) was commenced. A "Carrying Company" attorney,and Joseph L. Heywood, of Utah, U.S. marshal. for carrying goods and passengers fromthe Missouri October 13 Bishop Edward Hunter arrived with River to the valley was organized. the firstcompany of P.E. Fund emigrants from the United 9

States. 14 The legislative assembly of Utah Territory November 27 The Warm Springs bath-house, memorialized Congress for the construction of a great north of the City, was opened. national centralrailroad from the Missouri Riverto the 1851 Pacific Coast. At the same session, the legislature Great Salt Lake City, Utah, was incorporated and petitioned Congress for the establishment of a telegraph the firstofficers elected. The first territorial line across the continent. legislature convened in G.S.L. City and passed July 27 It was 127 degrees F. in the sun, in G.S.L. important laws. In the spring of the year school City. houses were built in most of the wards in the city, and August 29 (Sunday) The revelation on celestial also in the country wards. A railroad (with wooden marriage was first made public. It was read in rails) was built from town to Red Butte Canyon, to conference. Apostle Orson Pratt, who was dropped from bring rocks to the Temple Block. Cedar City, Iron theTwelve for disagreeing with the principle at first, Co., North Willow Creek (now Willard City), Box delivered the first public discourse on that principle. Elder Co., and Nephi, Juab Co., North Ogden, September 3 The first company of P.E. Fund Weber Co., Santaquin, Utah Co., and Carson County emigrants arrived at G.S.L. City from Europe with 31 (now in the State of Nevada) were settled this year. wagons. San Bernardino was founded in southern California. 1853 Missions were opened in New South Wales and India. This year the Indians under Chief Walker waged January 9 The bill incorporating G.S.L. City was war against the citizens of Utah, of whom a number passed by the general assembly of Deseret. Jedediah M. were killed. The "Spanish wall" was built in part Grant was appointed mayor by Governor Brigham around G.S.L. City, as a means of protection against Young. the Indians. Summit County, Utah, was settled by 27 Officialnews of the organizationof the Territory Samuel Snyder, who built saw-mills in Parley's Park; of Utah first reached G.S.L. City. Brigham Young took a settlement of Saints (Fort Supply) was commenced the oath of office as governor of the Territory of Utah. on Green River. September Chief Justice Brandenbury, Associate January I The Social Hall was dedicated. Judge Perry E. Brocchus and Secretary Benjamin D. 16 The ship Forest Monarch sailed from Harris deserted their officialposts in Utah and went to Liverpool, England, with 297 Scandinavian Saints. the States, takingwith them the $24,000 which had been This was the first large company of Saints who appropriated by Congress for the legislature. emigrated to Utah fromScandinavia. 29 Fillmore, Millard Co., Utah, which had just been February 14 The Temple Block was consecrated settled by Anson Call and thirty families, was selected for and the ground broken for the foundation of the the capitol of the Territory. (It is in the middle of the Temple. state.) June High water did much damage in G.S.L. November 11 The "University of the State of City. City Creek cut a deep channel through the Deseret" (later the Univ. of Utah) was opened in G.S.L. Seventeenth Ward. City. July 18 Alexander Keel was killed by Indians December 1 The Britishmission consisted of 44 under the chief Walker, near Payson, Utah Co. This conferencesand 679 branches, with 32,894 members was the commencement of the "Walker" Indian war. about twice the number on this continent.). This is the October 6 According to the Bishops' reports greatest number of Saints ever reported in that mission. read at conference, the number of souls in the various 1852 settlements in the territorywas as follows: Great Salt First public announcement regarding plural Lake City: 1st Ward, 260; 2nd Ward, 149; 3rd Ward, marriage. About twenty companies of emigrating 170; 4th Ward, 183; 5th Ward, 69; 6th Ward, 206; 7th Saints (10,000 persons) arrived in the valley which Ward, 384; 8th Ward, 236; 9th Ward, 298; 10th included most of the Saints who had been located Ward, 219; 11th Ward, 180; 12th Ward, 345; 13th temporarily in and about Kanesville (Council Bluffs), Ward, 454; 14th Ward, 662; 15th Ward, 501; 16th Iowa. Ward, 444; 17th Ward, 406; 18th Ward, 241; 19th February The TerritorialLibrary was opened in the Ward, 572. Great Salt Lake County: Butterfield Council House, with Wm. C. Staines, as librarian. Settlement, 71; West Jordan, 361; Mill Creek, 668; Congress had appropriated $5,000 towards the purchase Big Cottonwood, 161; South Cottonwood, 517; Little of books, which were selected by Delegate, Dr. John Cottonwood, 273; Willow Creek, 222. Utah County; Bernhisel. 10

Dry Creek, 458; American Fork, 212; Pleasant Grove, resulted in opening up that part of Utah south of the 290; Provo: 1stWard, 423; 2nd Ward, 264; 3rd Great Basin to settlement. Ward, 248; 4thWard, 424; Mountainville no report; May After a "talk" with Pres. Brigham Springville, 799; Palmyra, 404; Payson and Summit, Young, the Indian chief Walker, surrounded by his 427; Cedar Valley, 115. Juab County: Salt Creek, braves, and Kanosh, chief of the Pauvan Indians, 229. Sanpete County: Manti, 647; Pleasant Creek, entered into a formaltreaty of peace at Chicken 118. Millard County: Fillmore, 304. Iron County: Creek, Juab Co. This ended the Ute war, during Parowan, 392; Cedar, 455. Tooele County: which 19 white persons and many Indians had been Grantsville, 215; Tooele, no report. Davis County: killed, a number of the smaller settlements had been North Kanyon, 574; Centreville, 194; North broken up, and their inhabitants moved to the larger Cottonwood, 413; Kays Ward, 417. Weber County: towns. EastWeber, 233; Ogden: 1stWard, 449; 2ndWard, December A petition praying forthe 683; 3rd Ward, 200; Willow Creek, 163. Box Elder, reappointment of Brigham Young to the governorship 204. of Utah, and signed by Col. Steptoe and the leading 26 Capt. JohnW. Gunnison, of the U.S. officials and business men of G.S.L. City, was sent to Topographical Engineer Corps, and seven other men, Washington, D.C. were killed by Indians, near the swamps of the Sevier 1855 River, in revenge for the killing of an Indian and the This year walls were built around some of the wounding of two others, alleged to have been settlements in Utah as a means of protection against perpetrated by a company of emigrants bound for the Indians. The County Court House, the "Lion California. House" and other notable public and private November 2 Thirty-nine men, equipped with buildings were erected. During the summer farming implements, seeds and other things necessary grasshoppers did serious damage to crops, destroying for establishing a new settlement, left for Green River nearly everything green in many parts of Utah. The County. They arrived at Fort Bridger Nov. 12th. loss and suffering aggravated by drought, the Previous to this Brigham Young purchased from combined evils causing a great failurein crops. In James Bridger a Mexican grant for30 square miles of trying to establish a settlement (now Moab) near the land and some cabins, known as Ft. Bridger. This Elk Mountains (now La Salle Mountains), Utah, was the firstproperty owned by the Saints in Green troubles arose with the Indians and several of the River County. brethren were killed. A settlement of the Saints was December 29 The so-called Spanish wall built established on Salmon River, Oregon (now in Idaho). in part around G.S.L. City this year was twelve feet May 5 The Endowment House was dedicated. high, six feet thick at the base, tapering to two feet six September 2 The Ute and Shoshone Indians met inches six feet from the ground, and preserving that in frontof the Deseret News office and entered into a thickness to the top. It was six miles in length. treaty of peace. (Surrounded city except on the Jordan River side. 12 W.W. Drummond (a major cause of the There are 6 blocks to the mile.) "UtahWar") was appointed successor to the late 1854 Leonidas Shaver as associate justice of Utah. This year the crops in Utah were partly destroyed 1856 by grasshoppers; the so-calledWalker war was In the forepartof this year there was great scarcity terminated and the Deseret alphabet was formulated. of provisions in Utah. Many domestic animals died Hundreds of emigrating Saints from Europe died from starvation. A general reformation took place fromcholera while sailing up the Mississippi and throughout the church, most of the Saints renewing Missouri Rivers and crossing the plains. their covenants by baptism. This reformation February 7 John C. Fremont, with a company of extended to the several missionary fieldsin different nine whites and twelve Delaware Indians, arrived at parts of the world. Many of the Saints from Europe Parowan, Iron Co., in a state of starvation. One man sufferedseverely in crossing the plains and mountains had fallen dead fromhis horse near the settlement, with handcarts. and others were nearly dead. Animals and provisions January At a mass meeting held in G.S.L. City, were supplied by the Saints, and, after resting until steps were taken fororganizing the B.Y. Express the 20th, his company continued to California. Carrying Company, to carry a daily express from the April A number of Elders were called on a Missouri River to California. In subsequent meeting mission to the Indians in southern Utah. This directly shares were taken to stock a thousand miles of the 11

road. died in the mountains, and the handcarts had to be February The Indians stole many cattle and gradually abandoned as the relief teams from the horses in Utah and Cedar Valleys. On Feb. 21st they valley were met. When the company passed Florence, killed two herdsmen west of Utah Lake, and on the Neb., Aug. 25th, it consisted of 576 persons, 146 22nd a posse of ten men with legal writs called at an handcarts, 7 wagons. Indian camp in Cedar Valley to arrest the murderers. December 2 About sixty mule and horse teams A fight ensued, in which one Indian and a squaw were started fromG.S.L. City to meet Capts. Hodgett's and killed and Geo. Carson, one of the posse, mortally Hunt's wagon companies. On the 10th, and the wounded. He died on the 23rd. On that day Gov. followingsix days Capts. Wm. B. Hodgett's and John Brigham Young, by proclamation, ordered out part of A. Hunt's companies of emigrants arrived in G.S.L. the Utah militia to fightthe Indians. This difficulty City, after much suffering, being helped in by the with the natives is known as the "Tin tic War." relief trains sent out from the Valley. March 23 The ship Enoch train sailed from 1857 Liverpool, England, with 534 Saints. It arrived at The winter of 1856-57 was excessively severe, snow Boston May 1st. (Previous emigration from Europe fallingto a depth of eight feet in various place in the went through New Orleans.) From that city the. valleys of Utah. The harvestof 1857 was the best emigrants traveled by rail via New York to Iowa City, Utah ever had up to that time. Influenced by Iowa, whence the journey across the plains this year falsehoods, circulated by Judge W.W. Drummond was commenced by wagons and handcarts. Five and others, the Federal government sent an army to handcart companies would cross the plains this year. Utah. The Elders (missionaries) were called home September 26 The first two companies of from foreignmissions, and the Saints who had settled immigrating Saints, which crossed the plains with in Carson Valley, on Salmon River, on Green River handcarts, arrived at G.S.L. City. They were met and and in Southern California were advised to abandon welcomed by the First Presidency of the Church, a their locations and return to places nearer the brass band, a company of lancers, and a large headquarters of the church. concourse of citizens. Capt. Ellsworth's company had March 30 Judge W.W. Drummond, in framing left Iowa City June 9th, and McArthur's June 11th. the letter of his resignation as chief justice of Utah, When they started, both contained 497 souls, with 100 wrote a number of falsehoodsagainst Gov. Brigham handcarts, 5 wagons, 24 oxen, 4 mules and 25 tents. Young and the people of Utah, thereby influencing the Six days later the Welsh handcart company arrived government to send troops against the "Mormons." safely. April 15 , having arrived in the October 28 Capt. Edward Martin's handcart States, with the Utah mail, wrote a letter to the New company, detained by the unusual early snow storms York Herald, refuting Drummond's falsehoods. of the season, was met by Joseph A. Young, Daniel W. June 12 Senator Stephen A. Douglas, in a Jones and Abel Garr, at a point sixteen miles above political speech, delivered at Springfield, Ill., the Platte bridge. Three days later the company characterized "Mormonism" as a loathsome ulcer of arrived at Greasewood Creek, where fourwagons of the body politic, and recommended that Congress the relief company, in charge of Geo. D. Grant, should apply the knifeand cut it out. loaded with provisions and some clothing were July 11 AlfredCumming, of Georgia, was awaiting them. appointed governor of Utah. (This began 40 years of November 9 Capt. James G. Willie's handcart federally appointed non-Mormon governors to run company arrived aftergreat sufferings from scarcity the Territory). of provisions, cold and over-exertion in the 18 The Tenth Infantry,the vanguard of the Utah mountains. It leftIowa City, Iowa, July 15th, with expedition, began marching from Fort Leavenworth 120 handcarts and six wagons, numbering about five for the West, under command of Col. E. B. hundred souls, of whom 66 died on the journey. Alexander. The artillery and Fifth Infantry followed 13 Joseph A. Young and Abel Garr arrived in a few days later. The command of the whole G.S.L. City with the news that the last companies of expedition was given to Gen. W.S. Harney. emigrants were perishing in the mountains. More 24 The people of G.S.L. City and vicinity teams and provisions were immediately forwarded to celebrated the 10th anniversaryof the arrival of the help them in. pioneers by a feast, near the head of Big Cottonwood 30 Edward Martin's handcart company arrived Canyon. While the festivities were going on, after extreme suffering. Many of the emigrants had Abraham O. Smoot and Judson Stoddard arrived 12

from Independence, Mo., without the mails, the December 4 Capt. John R. Winder was postmaster there having refused to forwardthem. appointed to take charge of a picket guard, to be They reported that General Harney with 2,000 stationed at Camp Weber, at the mouth of Echo infantry, and a proportionate number of artillery and Canyon, to watch the movements of the U.S. soldiers cavalry, were ordered to Utah. during the winter. Two weeks later, when deep snow August 1 The Utah militia was ordered to be kept fell in the mountains, this guard was reduced to ten in readiness foran expedition to the mountains, to men. The remainder of the militia returned to their prevent the entering of the approaching army, if homes for the winter. necessary. 1858 28 Col. Albert Sidney Johnston was appointed Awaiting the arrival of the Federal army from the successor to Gen. W.S. Harney as commander of the East, the Saints in Utah abandoned G.S.L. City and Utah expedition. all their northern settlements and moved south, but September 8 Capt. Stewart Van Vliet, of Gen. most of them returned after peace was restored. Barney's staff,arrh:ed in G.S.L. City and the Nearly all the Elders (missionaries) who had been on followingday had an interview with President Young. foreign missions returned home. After a few days' stay he returned to his escort on The Utah War, when the Mormons all but came to Ham's Fork, and thence proceeded to Washington, blows with the U.S. government, attracted national with Representative John M. Bernhisel, where he attention, and many correspondents flockedinto the used his influence in favor of the Saints. city in the spring of 1858 to describe it for the world. 11 The Mountain Meadow massacre took place. One writing to the New York Herald in June, 1858, 15 Gov. Brigham Young declared the Territory described that curiosity, the useless city wall, then of Utah under martial law and forbadethe troops to undertook to paint a picture of the city proper. "The enter G.S.L. Valley. Large numbers of armed militia town is sparsely covered with houses; in the major were ordered to Echo Canyon and other points to part of it there are only two or three little habitations intercept the soldiers and prevent their access to the on a square block, and it will be remembered that the valley. blocks are very large. The houses are built close to the 17 Col. Philip St. George Cooke left Ft. sides of the blocks, the rest of the ten acres being tilled Leavenworth with the second division of the "Utah as gardens and fields; thus the city at present contains Army." numerous small fields of wheat and some very fine 29 General Daniel H. Wells left G.S.L. City for gardens. The houses are all built of adobe•.. Probably Echo Canyon, where he established headquarters. no other city in the world of this size presents to the About 1,250 men, from the several militia districts, eye of the approaching voyageur so magnificent a were ordered to Echo Canyon, where they engaged in prospect; the exact space it occupies, the streets set as digging trenches across the canyon, throwing up it were in a jewel of rippling brooks which glisten breast works, loosening rocks on the heights, etc., bright as silver in the sunlight, their breadth and preparing to resist the progress of the army. regularity, the rows of young verdant trees that October 5 Lot Smith, with a small company of border upon them, the lively color of the houses, the men, surprised and burned twotrains of government beautiful gardens and orchards, with the small fields stores, between the Big Sandy and Green Rivers thick covered with flowingwheat, give to it an aspect (Simpson's Hollow). singularly attractive .... This city, so beautiful, so 10 The officersof the Utah expedition held a isolated from the rest of the world... is the work of but council of war at Ham's Fork, and decided that the ten years, and that too in a barren valley, without army should march to G.S.L. Valley via Soda Springs. spontaneous vegetation higher than a willow bush." The followingday the march was commenced, but [A very accurate diorama of the city as it looked in afterseveral days of slow and exhaustive traveling, 1970 can be seen on the main floor of the LDS Church the expedition was forcedto return. History Museum, west of Temple Square.) November 4 Col. Albert Sidney Johnston joined February 24 Col. Thomas L. Kane arrived in his command on Ham's Fork, with a small G.S.L. City by way of Panama and Southern reinforcement.Five hundred animals perished from California. He came voluntarily for the purpose of cold and starvation around the U.S. army camp on bringing about a peaceful solution of the existing Black's Fork. Ten days later, the "Utah Army" went difficultiesbetween the United States and Utah. After into winter quarters at Camp Scott, two miles from conferring with Gov. Brigham Young and other the site of Ft. Bridger and 115 miles from G.S.L. City. leading citizens, he went out to the army, at Ft. Scott 13

(near Ft. Bridger). There he had an interview with from Europe was again encouraged forthose who had the new governor, Alfred Cumming, who concluded sufficientmeans. The Deseret Alphabet was first to accompany him to G.S.L. City. introduced. March 21 The citizens of G.S.L. City and the 1860 settlements north of it agreed to abandon their homes General Albert Sidney Johnston, left Utah with a and go south, all the information derived from part of the Federal army, which had been stationed at Eastern papers being to the effect that the Camp Floyd, Cedar Valley, since 1858. Pony Express approaching formidable army was sent to destroy began. Sir Richard Burton (The City of the Saints) them. Their destination, when starting, was by some visited the city. A large immigration arrived in Utah supposed to be Sonora. fromEurope. Last year handcarts used. April 5 Gov. Alfred Cumming and Col. Thos. L. February 7 The Social Hall was reopened for Kane, with a servant each, left the army at Ft. Scott public amusements, which had been discontinued for the Valley. They arrived in G.S.L. City on the there for three years. 12th. The new governor was kindly received by Pres. March 1 Gen. Albert Sidney Johnston, Brigham Young and other leading citizens and commander of the "Utah Army," left Camp Floyd for treated everywhere with "respectful attention." Washington, D.C. He had never visited G.S.L. City 19 Gov. Alfred Cumming and Col. Thos. Kane since he passed through with his army on June 26, examined the Utah library, where James W. 1858. (His return trip was over Simpson's road, Cummings showed them the records and seal of the through Provo Canyon and up the Heber Valley to U.S. District Court, alleged to have been destroyed by the Golden Pass Road, bypassing Salt Lake City.) He the Mormons. This accusation was one of the reasons allegedly never saw Brigham Young. Philip St. why the army was ordered to Utah. A few days later George Cooke, formerlycommander of the Mormon the governor sent a truthful report to the government Battalion, succeeded Johnston in the command. in relation to the affairs in the Territory. April 7 The first "Pony Express" from the West May The citizens of Utah, living north of Utah arrived, having left Sacramento on the evening of County, abandoned their homes and moved April 3rd. Two days later the first "Pony Express" southward, leaving only a few men in each town and from the East arrived, having left St. Joseph, Mo., on settlement to burn everything, in case the the evening of April 3rd. approaching troops, on their arrival in the valley, August 25 Sir Richard Burtonentered the Valley. should prove hostile. After a relatively quick trip in an overland stage, June 7 Ex-Gov. L.W. Powell, of Kentucky, and Richard Burton, emerging fromthe mouth of Major Ben McCullough, of Texas, sent as peace Emigration Canyon, penned the following: "The commissioners by the Federal government, arrived in valley presently lay before our sight. At this place the G.S.L. City. They met with Pres. Brigham Young and pilgrim emigrants, like the hajjis of Mecca and others in the Council House and the difficulties Jerusalem, give vent to the emotions long pent up between the U.S. and Utah were peaceably adjusted. within their bosoms by sobs and tears, laughter and IO Col. Kane arrived in Washington, D.C. Soon congratulations, psalms and hysterics. It is indeed no afterwardshe reported the situation in Utah to Pres. wonder that the children dance, that strong men Buchanan. cheer and shout, and that nervous women, broken 26 The army, under Col. Albert Sidney Johnston, with fatigue and hope deferred, scream and faint; passed through G.S.L. Cityand camped on the west that the ignorant should fondly believe that the 'Spirit side of the Jordan River. It subsequently marched to of God pervadesthe veryatmosphere,' and that Zion Cedar Valley, and there located Camp Floyd, about on the tops of the mountains is nearer heaven than forty miles from the city. (The agreement stipulated other partsof earth. In good sooth, though 40 miles and could not include northern areas or Utah uninfluenced by religious fervor- beyond the natural Valley.) satisfactionof seeing a bran-new Holy City- even I 1859 could not, after nineteen days in a mail-wagon, gaze The Federal judges in Utah exercised undue upon the scene without emotion." authority and caused considerable difficultyby 1861 instituting court proceedings against the leaders of the Utah was divided, and the western part organized church and others. A number of settlements were into the Territory of Nevada. A large number of founded in Cache Valley. Provo Valley, Utah, was church teams ("Down and Backers") were sent to the settled at Heber, Midway and Charleston. Emigration Missouri River forthe poor Saints. The U.S. soldiers 14

stationed at Camp Floyd were withdrawn fromUtah. the southern settlements in Utah were strengthened The overland telegraph line was completed from the by the arrival of new settlers from the north. About States via G.S.L. City to California. In the fall of the one hundred thousand pounds of cotton was raised in year a large number of people were called from the Washington County. Jacob Hamblin, with a small middle and northern counties of Utah Territory to party crossed the Colorado River, south of St. George, settle in southern Utah, on the Rio Virgin and Santa and went to the Moquis towns via the San Francisco Clara Rivers. The city of St. George and the towns on Mountains. the upper Rio Virgin were located and the resources January 16 Lot Huntington, an outlaw, was of that country rapidly developed. killed by 0. Porter Rockwell, near Ft. Crittenden, February 6 By order of the commander the while attempting to escape from the officers. On the military post of Camp Floyd changed name to Fort followingday, while trying to effect their escape, John Crittenden. Secretary of War John B. Floyd, after P. Smith and Moroni Clawson, two other outlaws, whom the camp originally was named, had allied were killed in G.S.L. City. himself with the South against the Union. March 6 The Salt Lake Theater, which had been March 2 A bill, providing for the organization of erected the previous season, was dedicated. The Nevada Territory out of the western portion of Utah, building is 144 feet long and 80 feet wide. The pieces was approved by President James Buchanan. played at the opening performancewere "Pride of the April 23 From the 23rd to the 31st of this month Market" and "State Secrets." upwards of two hundred church wagons, with four April 8 Mr. Morrill of Vermont, introduced a yoke of cattle each, carrying 150,000 pounds of flour, bill in the U.S. House of Representatives, at leftG.S.L. Valley for the Missouri River to bring in Washington, D.C., to punish and prevent the practice the poor. They traveled in four companies. These of bigamy in the Territories of the United States. It became known as "Church Trains" or "Down and was read twice and referred to the committee on Backers." (The previous year, Joseph A. Young, Territories. This bill also made it unlawful for any Brigham's oldest son, successfully experimented with religious or charitable association in any of the U.S. driving loaded wagons to the United States and back Territories to own real estate worth more than in one season. Church emigration procedures were $50,000. significantlychanged as a result.) May Two hundred and sixty-two wagons, 293 May 17 Gov. Alfred Cumming and wifeleft men, 2,880 oxen and 143,315 pounds of flour were G.S.L. City, quietly, for the States. (Remember, he sent from Utah to assist the poor of the immigration was from Georgia.) across the plains and mountains. They traveled in six July The rest of the army at Camp Floyd, or companies. Fort Crittenden, was ordered to the States. In Col. Patrick Edward Connor was ordered to Utah consequence of this, government property and outfit with Californiavolunteers to protect the mail, stage, at Camp Floyd was sold at extraordinarily low prices. and telegraph lines, and keep an eye on the Mormons. It was estimated that $4,000,000 worth of goods was In July they took up their line of march. Finding Ft. sold for$100,000. Crittenden desolate, and not bound by previous October 18 The overland telegraph line was agreements, he brought his men to G.S.L. City's east completed from the States to G.S.L. City. Pres. bench and established Ft. Douglas. Fort Douglas Brigham Young sent the firsttelegram, which passed became the center of a military reservation, two miles over the line, to J. H. Wade, president of the square, which in the course of time set limits to the company. Six days later the firsttelegram was sent eastern expansion of the city, forcing it southeast. fromG.S.L. City to San Francisco by Brigham The Fort and its soldiers had other effects on the Young. city. Water rights from Red Butte Creek were 1862 preempted and soldiers were encouraged to prospect The people of Utah petitioned the Federal forprecious metals. Gold, silver, copper, and other government the third time for admission into the precious minerals were found. Fortunes were made, Union as a State. A large immigration arrived this roads and railroads built, and a large number of non­ year fromEurope, and the church sent teams to the Mormons were added to the population and religious Missouri River to bring most of them across the mix. Colonel Conner felt it his duty to open up the plains. In response to a call from the government a society and, aided by the completion of the company of militia went eastward to protect the mail transcontinental railroad in 1869, succeeded. He is stations against the Indians. In the fallof this year buried on Ft. Douglas grounds. 15

1863 Lake Valley. Sevier Valley, Utah, was settled at Richfieldand January 5 The Daily Vidette, succeeding the Monroe. The Shoshone Indians were defeated on Union Vidette, was first issued at Camp Douglas, Bear River by Col. Connor's troops. Nearly four Utah. Like its predecessor, it was a bitter hundred wagons were sent to the Missouri River after anti-Mormon paper. the poor. In the fall Bear Lake Valley was settled by April 28 Wyoming, a village seven miles north of Apostle Charles C. Rich and others. Nebraska City, Neb., had been selected as the January 16 The Utah legislature adjourned outfittingplace for the emigrants, crossing the plains, without being able to accomplish much, as Gov. instead of Florence. About one hundred and seventy Harding vetoed nearly all the bills. church teams were sent from Utah to the Missouri 29 Col. Patrick E. Connor, with about two River this year, after the poor. hundred troops, defeated a band of Shoshone Indians, December 17 A landing and site for a church numbering over four hundred, in a ravine on Beaver warehouse, afterwards known as Cali's Landing, was Creek, near Bear River, 12 miles north of Franklin. selected by Anson Call, on the Colorado River, 125 About sixteen soldiers and some twohundred and miles from St. George, and the land along the Muddy twenty-fiveIndians were killed, including the chiefs River foundsuitable to settle on. At that time the Bear Hunter and Lehi. The savages were entirely church contemplated sending the emigrants from defeated. This is known in history as the battle of Europe, by way of Panama, the Gulf of California, Bear River; the Indians called it the "Bear River and up the Colorado River, to this landing, which was Massacre." Col. Conner was promoted to General. the head of navigation on the Colorado. The Indians wanted to retaliate but realized they were 1865 no longer a threat. Settlers rejoiced and further New settlements were foundedby the Saints on the settlement followed. Muddy, Arizona (now Nevada). A long and desperate March The bitter feelings existing between the war between the settlers in Sanpete and Sevier troops at Camp Douglas and the citizens of G.S.L. Valleys and the Indians under the chief Black Hawk, City came near terminating in a collision. A large known as the "Black Hawk" (Utah's most destructive mass meeting was held in the Tabernacle at which to life and property)was commenced. Many of the protests were entered against the infamous course settlers were killed and wounded. pursued by Gov. Harding (he vetoed all legislation January 28 The church, through its agent, passed by the Territorial Legislature causing a Francis A. Hammond, purchased the Laie plantation, political stale mate) and Associate Justices Waite and consisting of 6,500 acres of land, on the island of Drake. A petition, asking fortheir removal, was Oahu, Sandwich Islands, for$14,000, ofT. drawn up, and subsequently was forwardedto Dougherty. This place, which has since been a President Abraham Lincoln. gathering place and mission headquarters for the 3 A Congressional act creating the Territory of natives of the Hawaiian Islands, is about thirty-two Idaho was approved. A portion of northeastern Utah miles fromHonolulu, the capital of the islands. was included in the new Territory. Later (July 25, Today's Polynesian Cultural Center also occupies the 1868), this became a partof Wyoming. same land. 10 Brigham Young was arrested on a charge of February A warehouse was erected at Call's bigamy, under the anti-bigamy law of 1862, brought Landing, on the Colorado River. beforeJudge Kinney,and placed under $2,000 bonds. 4 A company for building a canal from the May Three hundred and eighty-fourwagons, 488 Jordan River near the Point of the Mountain men, 3,604 oxen, taking 235,969 pounds of flour, (Traverse Mountain, south) to G.S.L. City was partly started east to assist the poor of the immigration; organized. This canal (Salt Lake-Jordan) cost over 4,300 pounds of Utah grown cotton was sent east for $300,000 and is still in use today. (Through a series of sale, with the teams. exchange agreements, this lower quality water, 1864 adequate forirrigation, was exchanged for water The Perpetual Emigrating Fund Company sent 170 rights to the mountain streams, which was superior wagons, 1,717 oxen and 277 men to the Missouri River forculinary purposes and necessary forresidential after the poor this year. The first mining districts expansion.) were located, the firstmining companies incorporated March The people in the Utah Dixie settlements and the firstsmelting furnaces built in the territory. suffered much for the want of breadstuff, and several A number of new settlements were founded in Bear of the northerncounties were infested with the 16

measles. serious; companies of militia were sent from the 4 A grand celebration on the occasion of the North to protect the settlers; but nearly all the re-inauguration of President Abraham Lincoln was settlements on the upper Sevier and those in Kane held. County were deserted by their inhabitants, who April A special conference, held in G.S.L. City, moved to the older and stronger towns forsafety. ,,oted to erect a telegraph line through the settlements Tithing cattle sent to Antelope (sometimes called of Utah. ''Church") Island for protection from Indians. 1866 Grasshoppers destroyed the crops in different parts of The Indian war in southern Utah continued, and a the Utah Territory. No church teams were sent this number of the smaller settlements were abandoned by year to the Missouri River forthe poor. Therefore, the settlers. Ten church trains were sent to the immigration was comparatively small. Missouri River forthe poor. The rock aqueduct on January The Utah legislature petitioned North Temple Street was built. Congress to repeal the anti-bigamy law of 1862, and January 2 The members of the city council met the general assembly ofDeseret prayed foradmission for the firsttime in their new hall, or city building, into the Union as a State. recently erected on the corner of First East and First 15 The Deseret Telegraph Line was opened to St. South Streets. (It was relocated to Capitol Hill to George. preserve it). March 21 The Deseret Telegraph Co., February 12 At the municipal election, Daniel H. incorporated Jan. 18, was organized, with Brigham Wells was elected mayor of G.S.L. City. Young as president. April 18 The Indian chief Sanpitch was killed at November 13 The Union Pacific Railway was the mouth of Birch Canyon, between Moroni and completed to Cheyenne. Fountain Green, Sanpete Co. 1868 May The church trains, which this year went to During this year the grasshoppers did much damage the Missouri River forthe poor, left G.S.L. City in ten to the crops in Utah, and many of the farmers, as well companies. They numbered 10 captains, 456 as others, sought employment on the Union Pacific teamsters, 49 mounted guards, 89 horses, 134 mules, Railroad, which was now being built through the 3,042 oxen and 397 wagons; 62 wagons, 50 oxen and Territory. Names changed to Salt Lake City and 61 mules. County. Church teams were sent east for the last l Brigham Young instructed the people in time to bring in the immigration. Sanpete, Piute and Sevier Counties to collect together February 17) Hiram B. Clawson and Wm. C. in bodies of not less than 150 men, arm themselves Staines, who had been appointed church emigration well, protect their stock from the Indians, etc. agents this season, left Salt Lake City forthe East, 5 A Congressional act was approved, giving to with $27,000 to be used forgathering the poor. This Nevada a strip of country 60 miles wide, containing year about seventy thousand dollars was raised for 20,850 square miles, which was formerly a part of the emigration of the poor Saints, mainly from Great Utah. Britain, an extra effort being made on the part of the 20 A woman in Springville, Utah Co., shot and Saints in Utah forthat purpose. kiJled a man, who tried to seduce her. May 16 Samuel B. Reed, chief of construction on 31 The first circumcision of a Hebrew child in the Union Pacific Railroad, and Silas Seymour, G.S.L. City took place. constructing engineer, arrived in Salt Lake City, on December 1 TheDeseret Telegraph Line was business for their railroad. A few days later Pres. opened between Salt Lake City and Ogden. On the Brigham Young took a contract to do the grading on 8th it was opened to Logan and on the 28th to Manti. ninety miles of the road, and great numbers of men 20 In a letter, addressed to the "Leaders of the fromthe valleys turned out to labor on it. By this Mormon Church", a number of Gentile merchants in means money became more plentiful in the Territory. G.S.L. City, proposed to leave the Territory if Half the money was paid up front, the rest was to be Brigham Young would buy them out. A paid on completion of the contract. It never was, characteristic reply from Pres.Young the following totally. Money was not forthcoming. Pressure on the day was the result, and their proposition was railroad induced them to settle by offering rails and declined. rolling stock, which became part of the Mormon­ 1867 owned Utah Central Railroad. The Indian difficultiesin the South became more June The Indians continued troublesome in 17

Sanpete County, stole cattle and annoyed the settlers. officersof both roads, and a large concourse of 8 Joseph A. Young, Brigham Young, Jun., and people. John W. Young left Salt Lake City forthe head of 17 Ground was broken by Brigham Young at Echo Canyon, as agents for Pres. Brigham Young, to Ogden forthe Utah Central Railway, a branch road let contracts for grading on the Union Pacific soon afterwardsbuilt from Ogden to Salt Lake City. Railroad. 25 The firstcompany of Latter-day Saint 15 On this and the two followingdays, the immigrants who came all the way from the Missouri church teams, about fivehundred in number, sent to River by rail arrived in Ogden by the U.P.R.R. the terminus of the Union PacificRailroad this season July 25 The firstshipment of Utah ore to for the poor, left Salt Lake City. Californiatook place. It consisted of ten tons from July 4 Water was first brought on the Provo the Monitor and Magnet mine, Little Cottonwood, bench, Utah Co., by completion of a big canal from shipped by Woodhull Bros. to T.H. Selby, San the Provo River. Francisco. August 19 Col. F.H. Head, superintendent of 31 Woodhull Bros. made the firstshipment of Indian affairs, and Dimick B. Huntington (fatherof copper ore, ten tons, from the Kingston mine, slain outlaw Lot Huntington), Indian interpreter, had Bingham Canyon. a "big talk" with the Indians in Strawberry Valley, August The grasshoppers destroyed a large Uintah, and a treaty of peace was made with these portion of the growing crops in Cache, Washington, Indians, who had raided the settlements in Sanpete Kane and Iron Counties; other parts of the Territory Valley and other places. escaped the visitation and gathered abundant crops. October 16 Zion's Co-operative Mercantile 7 A mass meeting was held in Salt Lake City, Institution (Z.C.M.I.) commenced operation in Salt with a view of again appealing to Congress forthe Lake City, with Brigham Young as president. admission of Utah into the Union as a State. Co-operative stores were shortlyafterwards opened November 22 Ogden was decided upon as the in most of the towns and settlements of the Territory. junction of the Union Pacificand Central Pacific 1869 Railways. The great Pacificrailroad was completed through 24 Street lamps were firstused in Salt Lake City. the Territoryand a branch road built fromOgden to December 6 The Utah Central Railway was Salt Lake City. Salt Lake City is connected to the permanently opened fortraffic from Ogden to outside world. Farmington. January The first general directory of Salt Lake 1870's City was compiled by Edward L. Sloan. Brigham Young's response to the growing Non­ 15 The end of the Union PacificRailroad track Mormon economic influence was the creation of reached Echo, Summit. cooperative mercantile establishments, with Zions 21 An observatorywas erected on the south-east Cooperative Mercantile Institution (Z.C.M.I.), first corner of the Temple Block forscientist apostle Orson established in 1868-9, being the best known and only Pratt. Equipment was provided by the U.S. survivor. Branch stores began appearing throughout government in return forthe observationinformation the Territory. In the 1870's, until Brigham's death in to be gathered there. 1877, Mormon communities throughout the Territory March 1 Z.C.M.I. commenced business in the were asked to pool their economic resources and Eagle Emporium, Salt Lake City, owned by Utah's effortsin cooperative effortsknown to church first millionaire. members as United Orders. Some of these orders 8 The Utah Central Railway company was were successful, others were not. All were abandoned organized, with Brigham Young as president. The within a few years. Union Pacific Railroad was completed to Ogden, and 1880's a celebration held there in honor of the event. In May, 1880, Salt Lake City purchased from the April 1 Major John Wesley Powell finished his Brigham Young estate the old Brigham Young farm, explorations on the Colorado River. out beyond Ninth South Street, and opened it to the May 10 The great PacificRailroad was public in June, 1882, as Liberty Park. completed by the junction of the Union Pacificand The first telephone was introduced to Utah in Central Pacific Railroads, at Promontory, northwest 1879. In September, 1880, Z.C.M.I. held an electric of Ogden, Utah, where the last rail was laid and the light demonstration in front of its store, but electricity last spike (gold) driven, in the presence of the chief did not replace city gas lights until 1888, the same 18

year that electric trolley cars replaced horse-drawn Brigham Young for a while, and commonly known as trolleys. "Amelia's Palace," named after the daughter of the In August, 1883, the city ordered a house architect as she had helped with the design and numbering program with a view to inaugurating free decoration. mail delivery, which followed in March, 1885. In 1912, the Walker Brother's bank building 1890's became the tallest building with twelve stories. Economic, political, and legal sanctions levied Samuel Newhouse countered with the fifteen-story against the Mormon Church by Edmonds-Tucker Newhouse Hotel, in 1915. Bills in the U.S. Congress strapped the church The Medical Arts Building on East South Temple financially, disenfranchised a large portion of its Street was built in 1927. For the next 28 years, the members and forced active polygamists underground. skyline remained essentially unchanged until the First WilfordWoodruff, president of the church, declared Security Bank Building was added in 1955. Recent Sept. 24, 1990, that since the U.S. government had buildings have all been added in the last 25 years. enacted laws forbidding plural marriages and such laws had been held up in the Supreme Court as being constitutional, he was advising all Latter-day Saints (Mormons) to refrain fromcontracting any marriage forbidden by the law of the land. President Cleveland, in July, 1895, signed the enabling legislation to allow Utah to become a state. January 4, 1896, Utah became the 46th State. [A display pertaining to this was created by the Utah Historical Society and is located in the Rio Grande Building, 300 West, 300 South.) The Eagle Gate was elevated on new supporting columns to allow passage of street cars underneath in 1891. The City and County building [built by the first non-Mormon mayor] was completed in 1894 on the old Emigration Square, now Washington Square, between 400 and 500 South on State Street. The University of Utah, after occupying various valley floor locations, relocated permanently on the east bench below Ft. Douglas. After Statehood (1896) The Capitol Building, patterned after our nation's capitol in Washington, D.C., was built of local materials between 1912 and 1916 at a cost of $3,000,000, which was a million less than the temple on Temple Square had cost. The Federal Building and post officewas originally built in 1906 and enlarged in 1911. (It is now the Courthouse.) The firstskyscraper appeared in 1909 when mining magnate Samuel Newhouse built the twin eleven-story Boston and Newhouse buildings, on the east side of Main between third and Fourth South streets. In 1911, the ten-story Hotel Utah [now the Joseph Smith Memorial Building) was erected. Between the Hotel Utah and Brigham Young's Lion House was erected the old Church Office Building in 1917. Across the street, on the east corner, the Federal Reserve building in 1926 replaced the Gardo Mansion, home of successor prophets to PIONEER EMIGRATION TO UTAH

Andrew Jenson's Tabulation of Mormon Emigration, 1847 -1869 (Numbers are not exact, but best estimate)

•••••* •• - • COMPANIES · · · · · · · · · · Last Year Total Wagon Handcart Freight PEF Arrival 1847 2,000 9 2 Oct 1848 4,000 3 (divisions of single company) 19 Oct 1849 3,000 6 28 Oct 1850 5,000 10 1 14 Oct 1851 5,000 5 6 1 5 Oct 1852 10,000 23 1 16 Oct 1853 2,603 12 17 Oct 1854 3,167 8 24 Oct 1855 4,684 8 (1) 2 29 Oct r1 1856 (1) 3,756 5 5 1 5 15 Dec 1857 (2) 1,994 5 2 1 2 26 Sep 1858 179 3 6 Oct 1859 809 4 1 1 1 16 Sep 1860 (3) 1,409 6 2 3 1 5 Oct 1861 (41 1,959 13 (5 Church) many 27 Sep 1862 (5) 3,599 13 (7 Church) many 29 Oct 1863 3,646 12 (10 Church) many 15 Oct 1864 (6) 2,697 9 (6 Church) (1) 2 Nov 1865 1,301 3 29 Nov 1866 3,333 10 22 Oct 1867 660 1 (Terminus: N. Platte, Neb.) 5 Oct 1868 3,232 10 (Term: Laramie-5, Benton-5) 25 Sep Total: 68,028

( 1) Dan Jones captained the later-known Hunt Co. and wintered with the cached freight at Devil's Gate. Willie arrived 9 Nov, Martin, 30 Nov. (2) Russel, Majors, and Waddell had 6,250 specially-built wagons that could haul 5-7,000 pounds of freight, 75,000 oxen, and 5,000 employees. They lost $5 million from US Gov't. supplying Johnston's army and later funded the Pony Express at a $500,000 loss. (3) Pony Express (3 Apr 1860 · Oct 1861) used Mormon Trail over Big Mountain. 120 riders rode 650,000 miles. Only one was killed by Indians. Oct 24 · Telegraph completed. (4) Civil War (1961-4). Returning Army wagons used the Golden Pass (Parley's Canyon) route. A toll road was built down Silver Fork Canyon (Kimball Junction to Wanship), shortening the distance and became (5) the main road (except for poor emigrants) until 1869. The Overland Stage (Ben "Doc" Holladay, made a fortune, but lost it in the panic of 1873) and most traffic now followed the Overland Route from Ft. Bridger to Laramie (closer to 1-80). (6) About 400 persons came in this late independent train. Terminus this year shifted from Florence to Wyoming, Neb., 40 miles south. All teams from now on are "Church." J Note: ( 1) in the freight column means that an emigrant and freight company were combined. Andrew tried to count those that came other directions or other means or with non-church organized groups. An exact count has never been made nor could it. It is estimated that about 70,000 pioneers emigrated to Utah before the railroad came. Ensign Peak SALT LAKE CITY TOUR 34 Sons ol Ullh PionHrs · Oquirrt, Mountain Chapter Oregon California Trail Association • Cro..,oadr Chaptor Ron Aodllr•n. Guidi STATE CAPITOL BUILDING Marmalade D.U.P. (19151 Historic � 33 Avenues Historic Distritt District Mu .. ..,, 300 North 29 35 A C D

UNION SOUAR!c 32 31 City (Wast High School! Old City 19th Creek Ahor fort. immigranu (1st !mil homeI Hall Ward Canyon 5th Ave c-d here 111tU told Mccune Ch8jl61 200 North wfNln to locate. 30 41h Ave

(Old Parl< Haual • Memory Grove DrBeer 18 B7E 19 Robin,on (Univ of Oesaret Kimball! (WarVetrwl Bishop BB IOotPrt then Utah blganl Whitnoy Pollcl as B4 w 70 Dinw. son 3rd Ave Mllffll

Triad Center Ch. Mtraim HisUArt 27 LOS Chur

(BASELIIE) UP RR Depot 5 Symphony Hall !Did CH & CRSI 24 17 AIII Club 78 79 BO (History in 0.111 Centor 39 Z.C.II.L(l 868) 11 Lib; Planetari1111 Walk.Mason. Kalm stain glass) (Utah Jm 118891 Amundsen 31 (1878 cllSI iron fronU 15� Temple 4 blsketbllll New Convention Center jewlery stora balcony • !gr (Old SL !heater. (Hupmabile St Mtrks !oldest non· To University ol Utah 100 Solltll Construction Maooe Ad ... ) 14 •ignl 12 Mormon tllapel) (Plfty fJiproA) Onrund Sul!" l1ut1J

(Old Salt Palecol Eagle Empori1111 40 (1st pmd Fed. 13 (Old City Hell) (Old Well, Flf!IO end Fort Douglas BB Trib/ stree11 Bldg (See #35) Stlblesl Koams (home 1801 41 42 �h PVP 57 Drphe1111 43 PE Holmes Western irrigation 200 Soulh Tourist Info. 8 na 44.45 10 Brothel 11 began hole IOTES:

(Old NII Bonk Rip) 41 (44 •Her.;46 • Welke rs) • Vionin-making �places are II � School open to the publ�. K.Hall (gem/pros!) 47 f!!!! FREE guided or self- Gr18k 1st LOS Loi.Sil; HBey fur 48 (Tribune Publisher) guided tours 11r11 30D S..,U, CIN.rth Sunday School Keith (home #811 49 (Emlgratlan Rurl) 1v1iluble.

3 RioG Depot 50 Judge Bldg FREE bus service: jUtah Historical PIONEER PARK between 4th So & N Society! (PioneorForU First Pioneer 2 51 Bstn 53 II Sdc Ex T,mpi.; W Tamp/a & 1 Cementery Winter Olympics 2nd East; up Main to 400 Soulh 52 54 • Countdown the Capitol building. nh cc Lebor 55

56 EMIGRATIONSQUARE HILTOI HOTEL (CitylCounty Buildi!!Jil (Built by first non- 500 South Mormon mayOf)

4 w M 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

WEST m EAST IMERIDIU) to Liberty Perk