THE CRINOLINE PERIOD C

3/10/2009

C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869

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Important E vents Influenced Styles of the Crinoline Period

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The style lines for women’s dress at the beginning of the crinoline period were like those of the late Romantic Period.

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The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c. 1857 contributed to the continuing popularity of very wide skirts.

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Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in the 16th and 18th Centuries.

Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor.

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Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, women’s rights advocates had attempted to reform women’s dress proposing the bloomer dress. The support provided by hoops helped to make women’s skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and the bloomer costume faded away.

Women’s under drawers were made of cotton.

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Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise.

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Over the chemise, went a corset.

X X

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Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover.

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Next, the hoop was added.

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And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel.

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Dresses were usually two piece, had a full gathered or pleated skirt, and a dropped shoulder line.

XX • Daytime dresses had high necks • Evening dresses had low, often off-the-shoulder necklines

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To go outdoors any of several garments might be worn.

• A shawl, perhaps one of the Kashmir shawls popular since the beginning of the century •A short jacket •A mantle

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Accessories of Note

Under sleeves and Chemisette Footwear

Parasol Miser’s Purse Jewelry

A man’s undergarments included under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt.

Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat.

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And over that trousers, held up by suspenders.

Next, a vest.

Men could choose from several different jacket types.

• Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear • Frock coat for daytime • Sack jacket for less formal occasions

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For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats.

Accessories of Note

Suspenders or Braces Hats

Pocket Watch and Fob Ties

Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were dressed much as adults.

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With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that became know as the haute couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal women from all over the world.

Military conflicts inspired some fashionable styles.

X • The Garibaldi Blouse from the X red shirts worn by the soldiers fighting under General Giuseppe Garibaldi for the liberation of Italy • Zouave jackets worn by Algerian soldiers and adopted by an American Civil War regiment.

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Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes specifically for bathing and riding horseback.

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By the end of the decade of the 1860’s, the fashionable silhouette had changed. It featured:

SkirtNot fullness a gathered,A higher moved butwaistline more a gored to the skirt back.

For Further Study

Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org/collections Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

19th Century Shoes http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_S hoes/19th_Century.htm

For Further Study

Paisley Shawls http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/paisley/paisleyex2.html http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/shawls/dp_index.htm

Hoopskirts http://www.greenlightwrite.com/hoopskirt.htm http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/installations/hoopskirts.shtml http://demode.tweedlebop.com/crinoline.html

Charles F. Worth, Couturier http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm

Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.

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Image Credits

Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York Public Library of Digital Images. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ]. Image of Cage Crinoline, c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke, [ www.suziclarke.co.uk ]. Image of Harper’s Front Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward, [ www.magazineart.org ]. Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ]. Image of Drawers, c. 1850-1860, courtesy of Donna Neary, [ www.heritagestudio.com ]. Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ]. Image of Farthingale and Panier, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ]. Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of the Garibaldi Blouse, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Image of Swimwear, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, [ www.antique-fashion.com ], c. 2005. Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [ www.clipart.com ]; Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.;