3/10/2009 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 Check for updates on the web now! Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. Important E vents Influenced Styles of the Crinoline Period Click to advance through the time line Check for $7,200,000.00 JusGitusin eSmippe1859 Garth Moribalridill 185218601863 Charles Darwin publ18501861ishe186918511862186318671858186518611857 – s-1865 1870his theory of evolution in EmancLouiChars iNapolpatlesi onWore onPrt hbeoc meclomamets e at st heNapolion Empr endseon esl staveshe Euge Thiry innird te heand and Uni tbehetgie Sedns Stc tondoat e s EbeCongrneIsezeQueeHaraacsCharUnirs Butpas epeM.nt reVisl ’SidetHses TrBazarSt rcoopstWorngeitAbrhecCioranskat “iMorpatrkiavitThee ahamchis crnveontl Re,purtont opeeWarf rntor asiOrilntunineils cnshicnueLi hasAcstagei nt ihegiontcfnncheioutals tcne tf, atmagazistol heci ofeforAlurisai nir ontocnolUnit sable ihelasts crie ofprupyoadzeasiska ineSpet sneacablItd,eshi asdf i, tcrngs papealbeiheStom cscisintalhmy natgie LandBrats pltr ”nssrheoduc ee ntpats witdipubl etRusi dingsGrnethed Parr iThrmacantscniat ansfori oneionColhis cnelotl.ehigeng.s French Republdeics ibegnc omher e cs ltothehe Sescond Empire 1850 1851 1852 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1865 1867 1869 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 2 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. The style lines for women’s dress at the beginning of the crinoline period were like those of the late Romantic Period. Click image to toggle view C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 3 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 1 3/10/2009 The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c. 1857 contributed to the continuing popularity of very wide skirts. Click to rotate 360° C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 4 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in the 16th and 18th Centuries. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 5 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 6 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 2 3/10/2009 Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, women’s rights advocates had attempted to reform women’s dress proposing the bloomer dress. The support provided by hoops helped to make women’s skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and the bloomer costume faded away. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 7 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Women’s under drawers were made of cotton. X Click to Enlarge C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 8 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise. X Click to Enlarge C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 9 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 3 3/10/2009 Over the chemise, went a corset. X X Click to Enlarge C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 10 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover. X Click to Enlarge C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 11 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Next, the hoop was added. Click on image to rotate 360° C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 12 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 4 3/10/2009 And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel. XX Click to Enlarge C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 13 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Dresses were usually two piece, had a full gathered or pleated skirt, and a dropped shoulder line. XX • Daytime dresses had high necks • Evening dresses had low, often off-the-shoulder necklines Click on image to Enlarge C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 14 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. To go outdoors any of several garments might be worn. • A shawl, perhaps one of the Kashmir shawls popular since the beginning of the century •A short jacket •A mantle C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 15 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 5 3/10/2009 Accessories of Note Under sleeves and Chemisette Footwear Parasol Miser’s Purse Jewelry C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 16 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. A man’s undergarments included under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an undershirt. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 17 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 18 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 6 3/10/2009 And over that trousers, held up by suspenders. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 19 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Next, a vest. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 20 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Men could choose from several different jacket types. • Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear • Frock coat for daytime • Sack jacket for less formal occasions C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 21 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 7 3/10/2009 For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 22 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Accessories of Note Suspenders or Braces Hats Pocket Watch and Fob Ties C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 23 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were dressed much as adults. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 24 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 8 3/10/2009 With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that became know as the haute couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal women from all over the world. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 25 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Military conflicts inspired some fashionable styles. X • The Garibaldi Blouse from the X red shirts worn by the soldiers fighting under General Giuseppe Garibaldi for the liberation of Italy • Zouave jackets worn by Algerian soldiers and adopted by an American Civil War regiment. Click to enlarge image C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 26 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes specifically for bathing and riding horseback. XX Click to enlarge image C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 27 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. 9 3/10/2009 By the end of the decade of the 1860’s, the fashionable silhouette had changed. It featured: SkirtNot fullness a gathered,A higher moved butwaistline more a gored to the skirt back. C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 28 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c. 1850 - 1869 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc. For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org/collections Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html 19th Century Shoes http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_S hoes/19th_Century.htm C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N 29 THE CRINOLINE PERIOD c.