HH NEPAL The Insiders' Guide

Your guide to Nepal’s must-see temples, treks,

national parks – and more – by our local experts HH Contents

Annapurna Circuit Overview Contents Kathmandu Nepal Overview 3 Greater Nepal 32 Top 10 Experiences In Nepal 3 Nepal’s Top National Parks 33 Climate and Weather 8 Safari Experiences 35 Where to Stay 9 Adventure Activities 37 Nepalese Cuisine 11

Cultural Highlights 12 Trekking In Nepal 39 Pokhara Etiquette and Faux Pas 14 Essential Trekking Tips 40 Travel Safety and What to Pack 42 Earthquake Survival Tips 15 Trekking Food 44 Getting Around 18 Top Trekking Routes 45 Visa and Vaccinations 20 Easy Treks and Short Hikes 48 Greater Nepal

Kathmandu And Surrounds 22 Essential Insurance Tips 51 Must See and Do 23 Our Contributors 53 Day Trips From Kathmandu 24 See Our Other Guides 53

Getting Around 26 Get a Quote 54 Trekking Guide

Pokhara And Surrounds 27 Must See and Do 28 Day Trips From Pokhara 29 Getting Around 31

2 Welcome! Nepal is a destination that knows how to leave a lasting impression. Whether it’s the natural beauty of Everest and the Himalayas, the misty jungles of Chitwan and Bardia national parks, or the rich, colorful culture, and the kindness of the local people – it’s a country that’s truly unforgettable.

Our Insiders' Contents Pick of Nepal's Top 10 Experiences Annapurna Region Overview Bardia National Pokhara Everest Park Region

Kathmandu

Chitwan National Park

It’s no wonder Kathmandu that trekking is the most popular activity in Nepal.

Cho La Pass, Everest region Drink in the gasp-worthy

views of the Himalayas Pokhara With eight of the world’s ten highest peaks located in Nepal, and a variety of options catering for different fitness levels and endurance, it’s no wonder Greater Nepal that trekking is the most popular activity in Nepal. The Everest Base Camp Trek is by far the most popular route and takes approximately 12 days to complete.

Trekkers walk along the Khumbu Trekking Guide Valley, passing through authentic villages and visiting monasteries on their way to the tallest peak on earth. If you’re looking for more of a

Samantha McMahon challenge, the Annapurna Circuit is

3 an epic, three-week adventure most notable for the sheer variety of scenery it passes through. For novices, the Langtang Valley Trek is one of the easiest and most popular treks that takes 10-12 days. If you’re really short on time, the Kathmandu Valley Trek is the perfect option, with stunning valley

views and cultural heritage rolled into Contents just 3 days.

Offer a prayer in Boudhanath Stupa, Kathmandu Built in the 14th Century and located in the eastern outskirts of Kathmandu, Overview this temple is a UNESCO World Boudhanath Stupa Heritage Site and the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet. The entire structure is designed in Temple. Situated in the center of the the shape of a Mandala, representing a lake, it’s built in honor of the deity Ajima, Kathmandu microcosm of the universe. and the locals regularly make the trip on In Pokhara Explore the grounds – clockwise Saturday to worship her. you’ll meet – and spin the prayer wheels a variety inscribed with the famous mantra of Wander through Patan’s of native Avalokiteshvara (Om Mani Padme Hum) Durbar Square birds, with to spread some good karma. The oldest of the three UNESCO World a panoramic Pokhara Heritage-listed Durbar Squares, Patan backdrop of Cycle around Phewa Tal and Durbar Square is situated in the center rolling hills. surrounds in Pokhara of Patan, also known as Lalitpur. With nine lakes, Pokhara lives up to its As one of the oldest known Buddhist Greater Nepal label of “City of Lakes”, but Phewa Tal is cities, the Royal Palace is best known no doubt its main attraction. for its artistic prowess. The numerous Rent a bike from any of the local temples and idols within the square’s stores and cycle around the lakeshore three main courtyards (or “Chowks”) to take in the tranquil scenery. Here, are masterpieces of Newari art and you’ll meet a variety of native birds, architecture. Trekking Guide with a panoramic backdrop of rolling Spend an afternoon wandering hills and the Himalayas. through these royal grounds and visit If you have more than a day here, the street markets around Durbar take one of the brightly painted doongas Square. With almost half the local (boats) and stop off at theBarahi population working as craftsmen, it’s a

4 Spend a day exploring the traditional villages Nepalese of Bandipur cuisine is a Bandipur, located midway between hodgepodge Kathmandu and Pokhara, is an enchanting hilltop settlement that was of lip- once an important stop on the India- smacking, Tibet trade route. fiery dishes that are rich

Bandipur is a beautiful example of Contents traditional Newari culture. The town’s in spices winding lanes are dotted with 18th and bursting century architecture and teaming with with flavor. paradise of Nepalese handicrafts and farmers and traders going about their a great way to funnel tourism dollars daily business on foot. Spend a day directly to those who need it most. wandering through the local streets, Overview temples, and bazars to soak up the Get a taste of authentic unique culture. Nepalese cuisine Make sure you take your camera with Thanks to its wonderful cultural and you. The town offers breathtaking views geographic diversity, Nepalese cuisine of the Himalayan range – perfect for Kathmandu is a hodgepodge of lip-smacking, those Instagram-worthy sunset shots – fiery dishes that are rich in spices and as well as the Marsyanngdi River Valley. bursting with flavor. More often than not, the ubiquitous dal bhat – a big plate of steamed rice Pashupatinath Temple served with delicious accoutrements Pokhara of stir-fired vegetables, meat curries, spiced potatoes, and salads – will be on the menu. As will the meat-filled dumplings, Momos, the second crown Greater Nepal jewel in Nepalese cuisine. If you’re looking for more “everyday” local flavors, try choyla. This renowned Newari specialty is an appetizer made with grilled meat, typically buffalo, but chicken and other forms of meat Trekking Guide are also common. Pair it with Tongba, a naturally fermented millet alcohol, served in long bamboo canisters, and you’ll earn bragging rights to have

tasted authentic Nepalese cuisine. Mahadev Rojas Torres

5 Nagarkot Contents Overview

Go on Safari in Bardia Spend a night in a National Park homestay in Nagarkot Many Kathmandu You’ve heard of South Africa’s Big Five, If a glimpse of true Nepalese culture homestays but Bardia National Park – perhaps and family life is what you’re after, then also offer Nepal’s best kept secret – is home to there’s nothing like spending a night (or guided the Big Three: the Bengal tigers, the several) in a Homestay. tours, Asian elephants, and the greater one- Just an hour’s drive from meditiation, horned rhinoceros. Kathmandu, and uniquely surrounded Pokhara Located in the Terai Region in the far by lush rainforests and waterfalls, and (best west of Nepal, Bardia is Nepal’s largest Nagarkot is the perfect place of all) national park and wilderness area. to combine sight-seeing and an authentic Covering 968 sq kms of sal forests, unforgettable cultural experience. home- Greater Nepal grasslands, and savannahs, it’s home to For between USD $5-$30 a night, cooked more than 50 species of mammals, 400 you’ll have a basic but comfortable room Nepalese species of birds, and over 125 recorded and the chance to immerse yourself in food. species of fish. the day-to-day lives of your host family. It’s also far less tourist-focused than Many homestays also offer guided the popular Chitwan National Park tours, meditiation, and (best of all) Trekking Guide and the well-known white water rafting authentic home-cooked Nepalese food. paradise, Karnali River, is running close by. So, if you’re an outdoor enthusiast, Go white water rafting in don’t leave Bardia off your itinerary and Upper Seti

aim to spend 4-5 nights here. If floating down a sun-bathed river, Samantha McMahon

6 camping on white river beaches, and General Cost Guide getting far away from clamoring cities As a rule of thumb, the higher in sounds good to you, then you’ve got to altitude you go, the more expensive try white water rafting in Nepal. things are. But as a guide, here are some basic prices to give you an Only 30 min from Pokhara’s idea of what to expect: Lakeside, the Upper Seti River is the Dhal Bhat: Rs. 100-150 in Kathmandu’s best single-day white water rafting local markets, and at elevation of adventure. There are challenging

4,500m, expect around Rs. 200-850. Mahadev Rojas Torres

rapids for rafters and kayakers in the Drinks, such as a cup of tea: Rs. 10-30 per cup. Contents October/November season, where you Beer: A 600ml bottle local beer will cost you Rs. 250-700, depending can pass through a gorge with the high on the elevation. Annapurna Himalayas looming above. Chapati (flat bread): Rs. 10-30 per piece. If you love the great outdoors, there Momo (Nepali dumplings): Rs. 50-100. are many fantastic multi-day kayaking Western snacks: varies and more expensive than local food, but a or white water rafting tours departing 200g pack of cookies will cost Rs. 30-50 Rupees in Kathmandu, and Overview frequently from Kathmandu and up to Rs. 200 in the mountains. Pokhara. Some even combine rafting Accommodation: A basic bed in a dorm room will cost Rs. 200 or if you’re looking to stay one night in a luxury hotel, you’ll pay up to Rs. with short treks to reach some unique 13,000. landscapes, so check with local tour Trekking permits: Rs. 2,000 Rupees up to Rs. 34,000 Rupees, operators when you arrive. depending on the region. Kathmandu Porter: US $15-25 per day (including medical insurance and food). Lend a hand to rebuild Nepal Guides: US $30-40 a day (including medical insurance and food). After the devastating earthquakes in 2015, Nepal is still rebuilding from the damage, with many travelers place is a great way to start. If you’re wondering how to help. looking to give back in a more concrete Nepal is still Pokhara With tourism being one of the main way, reconstruction projects of schools rebuilding sources of income for the Nepalese and homes in rural areas are one of from the people, your return to this magnificent the highly recommended – and much damage, needed – volunteer projects.

with many Greater Nepal Cleanup in Kathmandu If that’s not for you, there are also a range of other programs like travelers teaching English, helping with women’s wondering empowerment programs, assisting how to help. disabled care, child care, medical

programs, and many more. Trekking Guide Be specific about your skills and what your time commitments are, and you’ll find there are many rewarding programs that you can weave into your

Jase Wilson travel plans.

7 WHAT Climate TO PACK Whether you’re & Weather planning a trek Nepal’s climate varies with or just enjoying day trips around the landscape, with four Kathmandu, distinct seasons including two follow these key monsoon seasons. The lowland steps: Terai regions enjoy hot and • Bring layers so you can adapt Contents humid, tropical conditions, throughout the and can rise above 45°C. The day. Your base mountainous north, with layer should be a synthetic T-shirt, altitudes above 3,300m, has an or a quick-dry, thin alpine climate that can drop to thermal shirt. If you’re sensitive to Overview -15°C in winter. the sun, wear long sleeves. Annapurna Range Nepal’s monsoon season • Pack clothes that Nepal’s monsoon season are light, with fast drying fabric, and starts in June, bringing rains, filling trip during this time, make sure you good breathability. the rivers, and making fields lush with have plenty of layering options and Kathmandu • Wear comfortable bright green vegetation. start your trips early in the morning so shoes – preferably The dry season starts in October you can finish before the afternoon. ones that you’ve and lasts till mid-late May. This is the Autumn typically brings clear skies, already worn in. season of clear skies, crops harvesting, amazing views of the snowy mountains, • Bring a hat and sunglasses to and you’ll find it’s freezing cold up in and dry trekking paths. protect you from the mountains. The temperature in the valley is the sun. Pokhara comfortable and warm, up to 25°C • Don’t forget Best trekking seasons during the day, and may go below zero the small things: gloves, a fleece hat, There are two time slots where the at night or when you’re above 3,500m. sun cream, and a weather is perfect for trekking. microfiber towel. Greater Nepal Traditionally, the most popular Wet season in Nepal • At higher times are called the “high touristic Mid-December to mid-February altitudes, you’ll seasons”. This lasts for two and a is wet season. It’s usually not very need more layers. Bring thermal half months in Spring (March – May) pleasant this time of year because of shorts or trousers, and two to three months in Autumn the low temperatures, but the skies a fleece jacket, and

(October – December). are very clear. a light down jacket Trekking Guide with a hood, or a Spring trekking season is typically Due to climate change, the monsoon dawn vest. Always warm, but can give hazy views of the season has also moved closer to have a wind and mountains. Mornings are clear and Autumn in recent years. This means the water-proof outer sunny, but changes rapidly from noon- rain can sometimes keep pouring until layer like a hooded soft shell jacket. 2pm. If you’re planning a trek or a day the end of October.

8 Where to Stay Whether you’re hiking in the Himalayas, strolling through medieval cities, or bargaining hard in souvenir shops, every minute in Nepal is exhilarating and exhausting in equal Contents measure. At the end of the day, you’ll need somewhere to rest your head and recharge your batteries. From guesthouses to hotels, teahouses to Overview homestays, which one’s right Streets of Thamel, Kathmandu

for you and your budget? Mahadev Rojas Torres

Guesthouses and hotels Budget rooms start from as low as

In the main tourist areas of Rs. 250 a night and include little more Kathmandu Kathmandu, Pokhara, and Chitwan, than a bed and a roof over your head. ‘Guesthouse’ you’ll find an ever-expanding range Spend a little more and you can expect in Nepal of options. your own bathroom, some windows, can mean ‘Guesthouse’ in Nepal can mean and a balcony. anything anything from a small, family-run Unless you’re going luxe, it’s worth from a small, lodge, to a generic budget hotel. Most noting that much of Nepal experiences family-run Pokhara have a large variety of rooms, so be power outages throughout the day, lodge, to sure to take a look before committing and Wi-Fi access can be erratic. a generic to stay. In Kathmandu’s bustling tourist budget hotel. district Thamel most hotels and Greater Nepal guesthouses will offer free airport pick-ups. While many have breakfast included, it’s usually a pretty bland affair. Booking ahead of time is recommended in peak seasons, but

you’ll get much cheaper rates if you Trekking Guide enquire in person.

Teahouses For those chasing mountain highs in

Mahadev Rojas Torres the Himalayas, leave the tent at home.

9 Bandipur, with Mount Everest in the background Contents Overview Mahadev Rojas Torres

Trekking trails are dotted with homestays offer a passport into simple teahouses that offer a family life and a more authentic local Kathmandu You’ll welcoming smile and a warming cup of experience. sleep well tea at the end of a hard day’s hike. For between US $5–$30 a night, For as little as Rs. 300 a night, you’ll you’ll have a basic but comfortable knowing get a firm bed, a thick blanket, and a room and the guaranteed kindness of you’re power outlet to charge your devices. your entire host family. spreading

Make no mistake – teahouse Get to know your host family your tourist Pokhara facilities are basic. Hot water, and immerse yourself in their day-to- dollars into electricity, and clean toilets are never a day lives. rural areas. guarantee. You’ll sleep well knowing you’re You’ll be expected to eat your meals spreading your tourist dollars into rural Greater Nepal at the teahouse’s own restaurant, areas that may not otherwise reap the and will be charged a fee if you eat economic benefits of tourism. elsewhere. Homestays, though, require an The higher your altitude, the higher understanding that some luxuries like the prices for luxuries like Wi-Fi, so Wi-Fi and hot water won't always be be sure to plan your triumphant available. Trekking Guide Instagram summit post accordingly. Meals here will be home-cooked Nepalese food that’s so delicious, Homestays you won’t think twice about eating If a glimpse of true rural Nepalese curried vegetables for breakfast, lunch,

culture is what you’re after, remote and dinner. McConnell Alice

10 Nepalese for the chutney, the spiciness of which ranges from extreme to super mild. Cuisine If you’re a spice-lover, let your waiter More often than not, the know when you order and they’ll be happy to accommodate. mention of Nepalese food will conjure up an image of Newari specialty dishes a plateful of dal bhat. But Choyla, an appetizer made with grilled there’s so much more to the You’ll earn

meat, is a renowned Newari specialty. Contents local food here. A blend of bragging Typically, buffalo meat (or “buff” for rights to Indian and Tibetan influences, short) is used, but chicken and other have tasted Nepalese cuisine is simple, forms of meat are also common. authentic subtle, and satisfying. From Pair it with tongba, a naturally Nepalese momos to aloo tama, get fermented millet alcohol served in ready for a mouth-watering long bamboo canisters, or raksi, a cuisine. Overview journey through Nepal with strong tasting local brew, and you’ll our pick of the country’s best earn bragging rights to have tasted signature dishes. authentic Nepalese cuisine. Another Newari specialty is a dense

Dal bhat savory pancake called bara. This is a Kathmandu Dal bhat and nepali thali are names coarsely ground batter of moong interchangeably used for the same dish. (mung bean) and black lentils, cooked This is typically a big plate of steamed on a pan with toppings of meat strips rice, served with delicious accoutrements and eggs. It’s often served with a of stir fried vegetables, meat curries, watery lentil soup. spiced potatoes, and salads. Pokhara Sometimes, dal bhat might just be Other local specialties dal (lentil soup) and bhat (steamed rice) Other dishes to try include sanya khuna with no embellishments whatsoever. – a winter soup of dried fish, aloo If you find dal bhat tarkari on the tama – potatoes cooked with bamboo Greater Nepal menu, it means vegetables are served shoots, gundruk – a salad of pickled alongside your dal bhat. and fermented greens, juju dhau – sweetened yogurt and Momos thukpa – a Tibetan meat After dal bhat, momos are perhaps noodle soup. the second crown jewel in Nepalese You’ll find thakali Trekking Guide cuisine. These meat-filled dumplings kitchens in all cities and are a permanent fixture in any towns; they are modest restaurant – regardless of what kind places serving Nepalese of cuisine they serve. cuisine alongside Tibetan Each restaurant has its own recipe specialties.

11 Cultural Highlights The cultural sites of Nepal are as impressive and unforgettable as its natural wonders. While reminiscent of the traditions of India and China, Nepal has its own Contents distinct cultural flavor. It’d take a long time to visit all of Nepal’s cultural attractions, but many of the country’s top temples and cultural Overview sites are located in or around Swayambhunath Stupa Kathmandu.

Swayambhunath Stupa statue is considered the largest and

Located on a hill 2kms west of Thamel, most beautiful stone statue in Nepal, Kathmandu Swayambhunath offers great views and is carved from a single block of black Located across the city. It’s a particularly holy basalt You can combine a trip here with on the place for Nepal’s Tantric Buddhists. It’s a walk in the nearby Shivapuri National northern nicknamed the ‘monkey temple’ and Park, further up the hill. edge of you’ll see why as soon as you arrive. Kathmandu

Changunarayan Temple valley is Pokhara Boudhanath Stupa This is the least-visited of all of a unique, To the east of central Kathmandu, this is Kathmandu Valley’s heritage sites, but open-aired considered the holiest Tibetan Buddhist would be a shame to miss. The two- temple site outside of Tibet. The building itself story Vishnu temple at the top of the dedicated Greater Nepal is steeped in Buddhist symbolism and hill is said to be the oldest temple in to Vishnu. the surrounding area is a hub of Tibetan Nepal, and represents a turning point in life and culture in Nepal. Nepali architecture and culture.

Budhanilkantha Dakshinkali

Located on the northern edge of This Kali temple, on the southern Trekking Guide Kathmandu valley is a unique, open- edge of the Kathmandu Valley, is aired temple dedicated to Vishnu. The where animal sacrifices (especially of temple houses a stone statue of the goats and chickens) are made. Only Hindu deity, depicted lying in a pool of visit if you’re not squeamish at the

water and surrounded by serpents. The sight of blood! Mahadev Rojas Torres

12 Contents Overview

A young man selects mustard seeds at the top of a hill in Nama Bouddha Mahadev Rojas Torres

Pashupatinath The three Durbar Squares

This is Nepal’s holiest Hindu site. Kathmandu Durbar Square, with its Kathmandu Located on the banks of the Bagmati eclectic mix of architectural styles; Patan River that runs through Kathmandu, Durbar Square, with its fine museum; it’s always abuzz with pilgrims and and Bhaktapur Durbar Square, an sadhus (Hindu holy men). This is a place open-air museum of traditional crafts, of somber worship, as Pashupatinath are fantastic places to soak up the local is also the city’s most important culture and colorful atmosphere. Pokhara cremation ground. The Living Goddess Manakamana At one of the Durbar Squares, you might be lucky enough to catch From the highway town of Kurintar, a glimpse of the Kumari, or Living Goddess. Greater Nepal located on the Trisuli River between The Kumari is a young girl believed to be the incarnation of the Kathmandu and Pokhara, is a long goddess Talein. She is worshiped by the local Newari people, some and scenic cable car leading up to the Hindus, as well as the Nepali Buddhists. Though each of the major Manakamana temple. Although the old kingdoms of the valley have their own living goddess, the most famous is the Royal Kumari of Kathamandu. temple itself is being rebuilt after the She is usually hidden away inside the Kumari Ghar, but during 2015 earthquake, it still attracts pilgrims Trekking Guide major festivals, she makes an appearance in the Durbar Square – from around India and Nepal, who it’s believed that her powers are so strong that even a glimpse of believe their wishes will be granted if her brings good luck. Crowds of people wait below her window in the Kumari Chowk, the courtyard of her palace. Even though her they pray here. The ride up on the cable irregular appearances last only a few seconds, the atmosphere here car makes for a fantastic day trip from is always charged with devotion and awe. either Pokhara or Kathmandu.

13 Etiquette elderly host take a seat before you do. Never point the soles of your bare feet and Faux Pas towards anybody while sitting. As a popular tourist destination, Finally, be careful not to cross over Nepal is used to the presence food or a person while they’re seated on of tourists, so many of the local the floor. people are mostly tolerant Etiquette at cultural sites towards various cultural

In some Hindu temples, such as the Contents differences. Nevertheless, the Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu, prominent religions of Hinduism

non-Hindus are not allowed to enter. Mahadev x2 Rojas Torres and Buddhism permeates Buddhist shrines, however are OK. much of the local culture. It’s While visiting a Buddhist shrine, dress a good idea to keep in mind a respectfully – cover shoulders and knees.

Physical Overview few etiquette pointers while Shorts are also fine as long as they are interacting with locals and touch is knee-length. reserved for visiting places of religious While praying, don’t go counter- friends and importance. clockwise around stupas. It’s considered relatives, to bring bad luck.

Don’t reach out to shake hands who would Kathmandu In Nepal, a handshake is not the norm Respect the locals hug each when greeting someone you’ve just met Expect homeless alm seekers in all the other or – especially when it’s a member of the temples, shrines, and public places. touch the opposite sex. Though this can get annoying after elder’s feet Physical touch is reserved for friends a while, just be mindful that Nepal is when they and relatives, who would hug each other a poor country. Old people who are meet. Pokhara or touch the elder’s feet when they meet. abandoned by their families have Instead, join your hands together and nowhere to go and turn to the streets greet people with a ‘Namaste’ – just as for begging. you would in India. It’s okay to throw a penny to them, as Greater Nepal it might help them get their next meal. Always finish your food However, it’s discouraged to provide for When offered a meal, try to finish the children begging on the streets, as this food served on your plate. An unfinished might encourage them to pursue this as plate says to your hosts that you a career. thought the meal wasn’t satisfying. If Trekking Guide you’re worried that the food is too much No whistling to handle, just politely ask your host to We know the latest Taylor Swift song is remove some of it before you touch it. annoyingly catchy, but keep in mind that It’s also ingrained in the culture to it’s considered inauspicious and bad luck be respectful of elders, so always let an to whistle inside the house.

14 Travel Safety Tourism is a mainstay of the local economy, and coupled with the natural friendliness and religious nature of the local people, Nepal is a relatively safe country for Contents travelers. But, as with all journeys, it’s important to be prepared before you go.

Bribes and corruption Overview There are a number of checkpoints run by the police in Kathmandu and throughout Nepal. Sometimes, attempts are made close to these border posts to small amounts of marijuana can result extort money from foreigners. in a five-year jail sentence. Never get Kathmandu Another increasing problem are involved in drugs in Nepal. When taking attempts to set up partnerships with a taxi, ask foreign visitors. Be vigilant and avoid Common scams the driver offering to carry jewelry to a “business Always keep your credit card with you to use the contact” overseas in exchange for and don’t let it out of your sight when meter. payment. Alert the local police if you are making purchases. Travelers have Pokhara approached. returned to find thousands of dollars Drugs and drug smuggling are also of internet porn charges on their cards taken very seriously in Nepal. Even after it’d been skimmed. When taking a taxi, ask the driver to Greater Nepal use the meter. Many refuse and then try and charge exorbitant rates, so agree on the fare before you get into the cab. Another common scam in Nepal is when a child approaches tourists and

asks them to buy some milk for a baby. Trekking Guide When the tourist goes to the shop, they are charged an inflated sum of money. Afterwards, the milk is returned by the kid to the shop where both share

Mahadev Rojas Torres in the profits.

15 Earthquake safety Nepal is one of the world's most earthquake-prone countries. Unsafe buildings, patchy disaster response systems, and difficult terrain add to the risks. Before you leave, register your travel plans with your government, and have a

designated emergency contact at home Contents who knows your itinerary. When you arrive, take note of safe areas near your accommodation. They should be open spaces away from overhanging buildings, trees, powerlines, and bridges. Keep your phone, some Overview food, water, water purification tablets, money, first aid kit, charged power bank, important phone numbers, and One way of breaking the scam is to documents like your passport and travel open the bottle for the child, which will insurance policy in your daypack. This will Kathmandu then benefit the children. Have a be a basic emergency kit. There are some dance bars in Nepal, designated If an earthquake does occur, crouch on particularly in Kathmandu, where emergency the ground, cover your head with your tourists are charged large amounts for contact at arms, and hold on as soon as you feel the drinks and harassed. It’s also advisable home who ground shaking. not to leave any drinks unattended knows your If you’re inside, take cover under a Pokhara because drink spiking, leading to itinerary. sturdy piece of furniture, or against an robbery, does happen. inside wall. Keep away from windows and anything that could fall on you, especially Theft in Nepal Greater Nepal Theft is becoming a problem in Nepal, and there have been incidents of trekkers being confronted by groups of men demanding money, as well as muggings and robberies in the cities.

Always be vigilant as to where your Trekking Guide belongings are, and don’t leave your valuables on display. Festival season – between October and November – sees a proportionate increase of crime in Nepal.

16 Dashain Festival Rebuilding Nepal: The Australian Himalayan Foundation

When the 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit Nepal on 25th April 2015, it caused nearly 9,000 deaths and destroyed countless lives, livelihoods, homes, and infrastructure.

The second earthquake, which hit on May Contents 2015, was even more damaging – devastating hundreds of remote communities in the extremely poor (and under-resourced) region of the lower Solukhumbu. Over 35,000 classrooms were damaged, leaving more than a million children without

a safe, permanent place to learn. Overview The Australian Himalayan Foundation (AHF) – one of our Footprints Network Partners – were one of the first NGOs on the ground to provide relief assistance in the form of food heavy furniture. If you’re in bed, stay there and other essential supplies. and cover your head with a pillow. If you’re With more than 200 of the 300+ schools Kathmandu outside, find an open place. Don’t supported by AHF’s flagship Teacher Training hesitate to & Quality Education Program in urgent need After the earthquake, immediately of rebuilding or repair, they leapt to action move to your safe area, taking your bargain and and provided 19 temporary learning spaces. emergency kit with you. Don't go into negotiate Using contemporary seismic design buildings as the aftershocks can be nearly the prices principals, and working with the pro bono assistance of Australian engineering and as strong as the initial earthquake. down. You’ll Pokhara architectural firms, the AHF pioneered an Get in touch with your embassy and get more innovative, lightweight, steel-frame design emergency contact to tell them where you respect for schools. Using this technology, they have are, but conserve your phone’s battery. from the so far completed the repair and retrofit of 20 classrooms in five schools, with a further If you’re trapped in rubble, keep still locals. 18 planned over the next 12 months. Greater Nepal to avoid stirring up dust and save your Today, reconstruction continues across energy; only call for help when you can Nepal and the country is getting back on hear people nearby. its feet. Trekking trails in the Everest and Annapurna regions are open and clear, and the seven UNESCO World Heritage cultural Bargaining in Nepal sites across the Kathmandu Valley, including

Although travelers don’t have a habit of Bhaktapur, have also reopened. Trekking Guide bargaining back home, it’s a culture of Now, more than ever, Nepal needs support Asian markets to do so, and permeates of tourism as it rebuilds, so the best way for travelers to support the country is to visit. almost everything in Nepal. Don’t hesitate Learn more about the AHF at www. to bargain and negotiate the prices down australianhimalayanfoundation.org.au – you’ll get more respect from the locals.

17 Getting Lukla Airport Around They say that the best things never come easy, and the same can definitely be said about traveling around Nepal. Although the distances are Contents not especially far, given the mountainous terrain, unpredictable weather, and old vehicles, getting around Nepal can be quite the challenge. Overview

Always plan ahead Whether you choose to fly, travel by bus, taxi, motorbike, or even hitch- hike, the biggest rule is to play it for many visitors. It’s certainly the safe. It’s always worth planning your fastest way to travel across Nepal. Kathmandu route before you travel and allowing When faced with the prospect of a The most yourself extra days on either side of cramped 24-hour bus ride, shelling popular form flights, treks, or tours. Roadblocks, out US $100 for an internal flight of transport breakdowns, and landslides are not certainly seems like a small price to in Nepal, uncommon, and these can all result in pay! Although, as flights are especially the humble unexpectedly long journeys. weather-dependent, they can often be bus ride, Pokhara cancelled, rearranged, or redirected can quickly Air travel at the last minute. It’s always worth turn into a Flying is the transport of choice bearing this in mind if you're planning rollercoaster a tour or a trek. of epic proportions. Greater Nepal Bus travel The most popular form of transport in Nepal, the humble bus ride, can quickly turn into a rollercoaster of epic

proportions. Take your pick of minibus, Trekking Guide local bus, or tourist bus, squeeze into a seat or climb up top and settle in for an often sweaty and uncomfortable (but incredibly scenic) ride. Prices vary

Cassie Wilkins hugely, but for the 210km long journey

18 from Kathmandu to Pokhara (6-11h), you can expect to pay anywhere from US $5 for a local bus to US $30 for a luxury tourist bus with AC and Wi-Fi.

Motorcycle Nepal’s mountain roads are ideal for experienced motor biking enthusiasts,

with rates normally starting at around Contents Rs. 500 a day for a scooter. Just be sure to check that your insurance covers you for riding motorcycles before you head off into the hills.

Private car Overview A private car is considerably faster than

a bus and a lot more comfortable and Cassie Wilkins convenient. If you’re traveling with family or a group of friends, this might to get from a smaller village to a main be the better option. It’s also possible city, you can always try and flag down Kathmandu to hire cars for multi-day trips around a private car. Passengers usually have Nepal from US $60 a day, including fuel to pay the return fare, even if they are and a driver. Top tip: If you're trying only going one-way, so the drivers are often more than willing to pick you up A view of the Annapurnas range from Bandipur for a heavily-discounted rate. Pokhara Taxis and rickshaws Mostly found in the bigger cities, Nepali taxis can be hired for local or long-distance journeys and are ideal for Greater Nepal exploring the Kathmandu Valley. Although most taxis have meters, drivers are generally reluctant to use them, and you’ll have to negotiate for the lowest rates.

These days, rickshaws are only really Trekking Guide found in Kathmandu and the Terai. A pleasant and scenic way to travel through the winding streets, a ride in a rickshaw is often a tourist attraction

Mahadev Rojas Torres in itself.

19 Visas and Dashain Festival Vaccinations With just under 600,000 visitors every year, Nepal is used to the influx of travelers, so they’ve made things easy when it comes to obtaining Contents visas. But there are still a few details you need to know before you go.

Visas on arrival Visitors of most nationalities can Overview obtain a visa on arrival (by air or by land). Simply fill in some forms, wave your passport, flash some cash, and you’ll generally be crossing over with It’s not possible to use Indian Rupees, no problems. Of course, there are Nepalese Rupees or credit card to pay Kathmandu some fine prints, but it’s all pretty for the visa. Visitors can straightforward. There are only twelve nationalities stay for a You must have over 6 months’ validity who aren’t eligible for visas on maximum of remaining in your passport after your arrival: Afghanistan, Cameroon, 150 days in planned return date, and you need a Ethiopia, Ghana, Iraq, Liberia, Nigeria, any calendar passport-sized photograph along with the Palestine, Somalia, Syria, Swaziland, year. Pokhara visa fee in US$ (for overland crossings) or and Zimbabwe. Indian nationals equivalent international foreign currency don’t require a visa to enter Nepal on arrival in Tribhuvan Airport. and visitors from other South Asian countries and China will be granted one Greater Nepal Phewa Tal, Pokhara free 30-day visa per calendar year.

Types of visas There are three options for visas on arrival: 15/30/90 day visas at US

$25/40/100 respectively. It’s easy to Trekking Guide extend your visa in-country too, and visitors can stay for a maximum of 150 days in any calendar year (January 1st to December 31st).

Jamie-Leigh Hecht If you’re planning a side trip to Tibet,

20 Nepal, but it’s always worth checking which vaccinations are recommended and ensuring you’re up-to-date with all your booster jabs. Although you can get vaccinations in Kathmandu, it’s generally better (and often cheaper) to get them before you travel.

Either way, it’s always worth Contents consulting with your local doctor or nurse for up-to-date travel and inoculation advice at least 6 weeks before your planned departure date.

Recommended vaccinations Overview The main recommended vaccinations for Nepal are Hepatitis A, Typhoid, and Meningitis. Boosters are also Bhutan, or India, it’s worth paying US recommended for Tetanus, Polio,

$20 to upgrade your single-entry visa to Mumps, and Measles. Kathmandu a multiple-entry visa at the Kathmandu You can Depending on your travel plans, you Central Immigration Office. speed up may also consider inoculations against your visa Japanese Encephalitis, Hepatitis B, and Fast-track your visa application Rabies. This is especially important if To avoid queuing at immigration, you process by you have young children, are coming for can speed up your visa application applying for an extended period of time, working in Pokhara process by applying for a visa from a visa from health care, or visiting rural areas and your nearest Nepalese embassy, or your nearest the Terai. completing the application form online Nepalese before your departure. embassy. Greater Nepal Just bear in mind that the slightly chaotic nature of TIA Airport means that you’ll probably end up waiting just as long for your bags at the luggage claim belt.

For up-to-date visa information, Trekking Guide please visit: www.nepalimmigration. gov.np

Required vaccinations

No immunizations are required to visit Jamie-Leigh Hecht

21 Contents Overview Kathmandu

Pokhara HH KATHMANDUand Surrounds Greater Nepal

he capital of Nepal is choked with bustling rickshaw-lined streets, fragrant with incense, and populated by UNESCO World

THeritage Hindu, Buddhist, and Newari temples. It’s enough to Trekking Guide awe even the most seasoned travlers. But step outside the chaotic city and explore the terraced rice fields and the sacred towns around Kathmandu valley too. Discover centuries-old, medieval towns of Patan, Bodhanath, and Bhaktapur to get a tast of authentic, local Newari Culture, and get ready to be transported to another time.

22 KATHMANDU Must See and Do

Swayambhunath Swayambhunath – or the Monkey Temple as it’s commonly referred to – is an incredible place to soak up views

of the Himalayas and the stretching Contents sea of colorful houses.The traditional Entrance to Swayambhunath Buddhist stupa is second in importance only to Boudhanath in Nepal. It’s definitely worth the long walk up the Inside Thamel, you can find stone-cut staircase. ample amounts of live music, food, clothing, and trekking supplies, all Overview Boudhanath (Boudha) within walking distance. Boudhanath is undoubtedly one of the most incredible sites in Nepal, and Pashupatinath arguably one of the most important Pashupatinath is one of the most

Buddhist sites in the world. important places for Hindu people in Kathmandu When you’re inside, make sure you Kathmandu, as it’s where many of the walk clockwise – or sunwise as it was city’s Hindus are cremated. originally referred to – around the Of course, it’s important to practice 4 MUSTS Stupa. Spin the prayer wheels as such the utmost sensitivity when witnessing Our Insider’s Pick of Kathmandu’s too, it’s offensive to do the opposite. the cremations. Top 4 Local

For those who visit, you’ll find a Experiences: Pokhara Thamel surprisingly serene and thoughtful • Get a haircut! Thamel is the central tourist district in atmosphere, populated mostly by men Seriously, it’s quite Kathmandu. Here you’ll literally find clad entirely in white with shaved heads, the experience and it usually comes everything you need for your Nepalese except for a small tuff at the back. with a bonus Greater Nepal adventure. These mourners will spend up to shoulder massage. If the shopping doesn’t interest two weeks - sometimes more – in the • Visit Jazz you, check out the impressive variety temple to grieve for their loved ones. Upstairs on Wednesday nights of restaurants. Try the vegetarian- – very worthwhile. friendly Places Restaurant. After a Kathmandu Durbar Square • Go climbing at long trek, the chocolate soufflé will This is one of the best places to see Astrek Climbing Trekking Guide blow your mind! Also, don’t be shy – try ancient Newari carvings, which are both wall in Thamel. some Nepali dishes at one of the many beautiful and incredibly intricate. • Take a language traditional restaurants. It’s a UNESCO heritage site, along class – Nepali is surprisingly easy to Coffee lovers can find warm coffee with other Newari sites like Patan learn the basics. and tasty cakes at Himalayan Java. and Bhaktapur.

23 KATHMANDU

Day Trips Langtang Valley from Kathmandu

There’s plenty to see inside Kathmandu, but while you’re in Nepal, you’ve got to catch Contents a glimpse of the beautiful landscape and the Himalayas. From mountain biking to hiking, here are the best day trips to explore more of this incredible part of the world. Overview Jase Wilson Bhaktapur In the past, Bhaktapur was a cultural, Get a Rs. 50 bus ticket from the Ratna political, and economic powerhouse of Park bus stop, close to Thamel, and Kathmandu Bhaktapur is the Newari kingdom, which ruled over expect the trip to take around an hour. said to have Kathmandu Valley. It’s a must-see sight Alternatively, pay around Rs. 1,500 the most in Nepal, and is located roughly 13kms for a taxi to go one-way, but don’t from the center of Kathmandu. forget to bargain. temples Bhaktapur is said to have the most per square temples per square kilometer in all Patan (Lalitpur) kilometer in Pokhara of Nepal, and is an excellent place to Patan is the center of fine art, as well all of Nepal. shop for traditional handmade art and as Hindu and Buddhist culture, and is souvenirs. one of the three ancient Royal Cities of the Kathamandu Valley alongside Greater Nepal Swayambhunath Kathmandu and Bhaktapur. Here, you’ll see architecture and handicrafts similar to those in Bhaktapur. However it’s much closer to Thamel and is today more-or-less

located inside Kathmandu, on the south Trekking Guide side of the Bagmati River. Don’t miss the UNESCO World Heritage listed Patan Durbar Square. Taking a taxi from Thamel should

Jase Wilson cost less than Rs. 500-600.

24 KATHMANDU

Langtang Contents Overview Jase Wilson

Mountain biking around Getting to Shivapuri requires either

Kathmandu a 1h mountain bike ride or a Rs. 1,000 Kathmandu Generally, Renting a mountain bike in Kathmandu taxi. The views and trails are worth it! the Eastern is relatively easy, with many shops in Leave early if you’re planning a day side of Thamel offering guided trips or bikes trip here – it’s a full day of adventure. Kathmandu for rent. Himalayan Single Track, for Valley example, rents bikes for US $25 a day, Rock climbing provides and is the best source of information around Hattiban Pokhara some of regarding routes. Head down to Astrek Climbing Wall to the most Generally, the Eastern side of ask about rock climbing day trips. attractive Kathmandu Valley provides some of The closest rock climbing area to bike routes. the most attractive routes. These can Greater Nepal be explored from Panauti, or Dhulikel, Nagarkot, as well as Shivapuri National Park to the north.

Hiking Shivapuri

National Park Trekking Guide Just outside of Kathmandu is a 3,000m peak with stunning views of Kathmandu Valley. The hike is quite steep and goes along cut stone steps

almost the entire way. Samantha McMahon

25 KATHMANDU

Getting Around Kathmandu Local maps If you fly in, pick up a free Kathmandu Valley map at the airport. Streets are not often named in Kathmandu except for major roads and in most cases, directions are given relative to the nearest chowk, or square. If you have a smartphone, download an offline version of Google Maps before you arrive to Contents help navigate. Getting around on foot Traveling on foot is the best way to soak up the local atmosphere and explore a specific the city is Hattiban, which is located area, but be warned – it’s not always a very close to the beautiful Neydo pleasant walk. Opt for public transport to get

The forests between places of interest. Overview Buddhist Monastery, inhabited mostly Rickshaws and taxis by young children. surrounding Hattiban Rickshaws can be found around Thamel and taxis are parked near all major streets. All Yoga or meditation are a great taxis have meters and you should insist on it being used. Before 9pm, rates start at Rs. 14 The best places for yoga or mediation place for and after 9pm, they are Rs. 21. If a driver uses are Last Resort, Hattiban Resort and walking, his meter, it's courteous to tip up to a third of Kathmandu Neydo Monatery. mountain the metered price. The forests surrounding Hattiban biking, or If you’re heading out on a day trip, you can are a great place for walking, mountain going on a hire a taxi one-way. Expect to pay Rs. 300 one-way to Patan and Rs. 800 -1,200 to biking, or going on a meditation retreat meditation Bakhtapur from Thamel or the airport. at the stunning Neydo Monastery. retreat. For longer trips and to hire a taxi by the day,

negotiate directly with the driver. Haggle hard Pokhara Trekking in Langtang and if you’re not satisfied with the rate, don’t National Park be afraid to walk away – there are plenty of other drivers who are willing to take you. It’s possible to do a short six-day trek Getting around by bus to Langtang National Park from Blue and green buses loop around the city Greater Nepal Kathmandu. The bus leaves from along the Ring Road and costs around Rs. 20- Gongabu Bus Park to Syabrubesi. It’s 35 depending on the distance. These will take you to many of the main attractions. best to use a travel agent to arrange Though there are very few signs, these are the tickets the day before (at a fee). Be well set up for travelers and every bus has a sure to bring your passport and arrange cashier/attendant who can tell you where it

a TIMS trekking permit in advance. stops and when you’ve arrived. The locals are Trekking Guide The bus ride will take most of the usually also very friendly and helpful, so don’t be afraid to ask around. first day, however, it’s also possible to Buses for longer trips within the valley trek from Syabrubesi to Kyanjin Gompa, are also available to Patan, Bakhtapur and with views of Shishanpagnma and the Boudhanath. Langtang Himalayas throughout.

26 Contents Overview Kathmandu

Pokhara HH POKHARAand Surrounds Greater Nepal

ubbed the "City of Lakes", this tranquil gateway to the Annapurna has something for every traveler. Grab a

Dbrightly-colored, handcrafted boat and float along the Trekking Guide serene Phewa Lake; hike through small villages and jungles to Sarangkot Hill to watch the epic sunrise over the Himalayas; or get your heart pumping with world-class paragliding, complete with panoramic views of the snow-capped mountains… Whatever your adventure, there’s plenty to discover in Pokhara.

27 POKHARA Must See 4 MUSTS The museums you and Do shouldn't miss... Pokhara Museum Learn more about Paraglide in Sarangot the region you're Attach yourself to a complete stranger, traveling in, its history, and the glide 8,000ft in the air surrounded by lifestyle of the the Himalayan Mountains, and you locals in Western Nepal. won’t be able to wipe the smile off Contents your face. The 25-minute winding Jeep The International Mountain Museum ride up the mountain to the peak of Turner Ellen Venture into Sarangot is an experience like historical records, no other. Hike to World Peace Pagoda documents, The adrenaline begins during this (Shanti Pagoda) and journals

of successful Overview ride, with instructors pumping music Opened in 1999 atop a hill overlooking mountaineers who through the speakers as you watch Phewa Tal, the tower offers great views conquered eight Pokhara valley get smaller and smaller of the Annapurna mountains, including of the mountain while you travel higher and higher. Fishtail, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, peaks above 8,000m in Nepal. Your allocated instructor gives you a and Annapurna III. You can also try quick run through of the procedure The easiest way to get here is via taxi Kathmandu your climbing and suddenly, you’re attached to him (Rs. 1,000 return, including wait time), abilities here on and you’re running off a cliff – as crazy but you can also make it into a fantastic their 6m-high rock. as that sounds. day trip. Head to the south side of Annapurna Phewa Tal – either on foot or across the Regional Museum Here, you’ll find Float along Phewa Tal lake on boat – and follow a pretty steep a large collection

Surrounded by monkey-filled forests hike through the forest. of flora and Pokhara and snow-capped mountains, Phewa fauna living in the Annapurna area. Tal or Phewa Lake is undoubtedly Explore mystical caves Gurkha Memorial Pokhara’s main attraction. Don’t Caves hold secrets, history, and mystery. Museum reserve just one day for this adventure Sita, Gupteshwor, Mehendra and This museum Greater Nepal – there’s plenty to explore here. Devi’s Fall caves are no exception. holds the historical The local community has preserved The natural formations within these record of the great Gurkha Army who its beauty by restricting motorized caves are precious to the locals and they fought on behalf boats from accessing the lake. You can regularly journey inside to worship. of the United rent a bright, hand-crafted wooden One of the major attractions here is Kingdom and were famous for their boat and sail in tranquility. the adventure into the Chameri Gufa Trekking Guide fearless discipline Don’t miss a small stop-off at the (“Bat Caves”), deep below Pokhara city. and commitment. Barahi Temple, situated in the center. Not only will you be among hundreds Immerse yourself It was built in honor of the deity Ajima, of sleeping bats, but you also get the in their photos, and the locals regularly make the trip true caving experience by climbing out stories, medals, and uniforms. on Saturday to worship her. the other end!

28 POKHARA

Day Trips Annapurna Trek from Pokhara

If you're an adventure-lover and prefer exploring the great outdoors, then base yourself Contents in Pokara over Kathmandu. From mountain biking, hiking, and paragliding, to simply enjoying the mountain views, there are lots of unforgettable experiences to be had around Overview this lakeside city.

Day hikes one of the best is to take a boat to the

While Pokhara is a good start and starting point and walking through Kathmandu There are end point for multi-day treks in the forest for about 30min. various Annapurna Himalayas, there are also At the top are great views across ways to hike some good day hikes from the city. the city, lake, and mountains. The Shanti Stupa (aka the Peace For something longer and more here: one Pagoda) lies to the east of the lake, challenging, hike up to Sarangkot, on of the best and is perfect for a half-day trip. This the western side of the lake. This is a is to take Pokhara white structure was built in 1973 by a much higher lookout point. a boat to Japanese Buddhist organization. The hike here will take you through the starting There are various ways to hike here: small villages and farmland, and the point. views of the Annapurna on the other Greater Nepal side of the hill are spectacular on a clear day.

Mountain biking Mountain bikes can be rented in

Pokhara and are a fantastic way to Trekking Guide explore the unique landscape of Pokara Valley. Hiring a guide is a good idea, but not essential for all routes. Circling Fewa Lake is a great way Begnas Lake

Ellen Turner Ellen to exercise the legs and lungs, and

29 POKHARA

Miya Gaon Contents Overview Ellen Turner Ellen

the path is fairly straightforward. This Himalayas at the starting point are

route takes about five hours, or can impressive, and the river follows a Kathmandu For a taste be extended by taking smaller paths shallow gorge. Water levels are most of white beneath Sarangkot. suitable in October-November. water For a longer ride, there’s a fine road, rafting and paved only in its earliest sections, Rupakot kayaking, following the ridge between two About an hour’s drive from Pokhara is head to the beautiful lakes, Rupa Tal and Begnas the stunning Rupakot Resort. A day Pokhara Upper Seti. Tal, and then westwards to Besisahar. trip here is worthwhile for the million- This network of trails can be explored dollar views. in one or several days, so enquire at Perched high above Rupa and Pokhara bike shops to plan your ride. Greater Nepal

White water rafting and kayaking in Upper Seti For a taste of white water rafting and kayaking, head to the Upper Seti,

about 45 mins drive from Pokhara. Its Trekking Guide name comes from the whitish waters. The river has some technical rapids that will be a good challenge for experienced kayakers. The views of the Annapurna

30 POKHARA

Getting Around The views Pokhara from Arriving to Pokhara Rupakot are By far the most popular way to get to of the kind Pokhara is by bus from Kathmandu. These run from Thamel almost every 15 mins that you can from 7:30am through to late afternoon. usually only Night buses are available, but the ride is get when painful. Greenline operates a bus service every day for around USD $23 with Contents trekking in lunch included. Lumbini the area. Yeti Airlines, Buddha Air, and Simrik Air are reputable airlines that operate regular flights (US $117, 40 mins) – also Begnas Lakes, and with an expansive from Kathmandu – that can be purchased view of the snow-capped Annapurna online and at the last minute. The flights

offer the benefit of a bird's eye view of Overview Himalayas and terraced farmland the countryside and of the panoramic below, the views from Rupakot are of mountains themselves. the kind that you can usually only get Exploring on foot when trekking in the area. Pokhara’s a fairly small city and can be easily explored on foot. Walking is You can also hike the 90 mins necessary to get to places where vehicles round-trip to the nearby Miya Gaon, or bicycles can't reach. Kathmandu unusual in these parts for being a Bicycles, motorbikes, and scooters Muslim village. Another great way to explore the city is by Begnas Lake, located below Miya bicycle. These can be hired in Lakeside for around Rs.100-300 per day. Motorbikes and Gaon, is also a quieter alternative to scooters are also available, but make sure nearby Fewa Lake, in Pokhara. you have a valid motorcycle license before

you get on. Pokhara Overnight trip: Lumbini Local transport If you have a bit more time to spare Minivans operate on most of the popular routes and taxis are available throughout and can stay overnight, visit Lumbini, the city. on the plains. This is Buddha’s Greater Nepal birthplace. While the site was ‘lost’ for many centuries, nowadays it’s been developed into a fascinating park, with Buddhist monasteries and temples built by many Buddhist countries and

organizations. Trekking Guide If you’re especially interested in archaeology, you might want to make the trip to Tilaurakot, to the west of Lumbini – the center of the ancient Lumbini Shakya kingdom.

31 Contents Overview Kathmandu

GREATER Pokhara HH Ellen Turner Ellen NEPAL Greater Nepal

ost travelers heading to Nepal think only of its impressive mountains. They dream of summiting Mt Everest, or Moffering a prayer and dining with monks inside thousand- year-old monasteries perched atop impossible cliffs. But did you Trekking Guide know, you can also go on safari to spot Bengal tigers, mountain bike through lush forests, and even go on multi-day kayaking adventures? With over 16 national parks, wildlife reserves, and conservation areas with abundant biodiversity, it’s time to head into the jungle and uncover a different side of Nepal.

32 GREATER NEPAL

Nepal’s Top Sagamartha National Park National Parks

Whatever kind of natural experience you’re after, chances are you’ll find it in Contents Nepal. In the jungle national parks of Chitwan and Bardia, you can come face-to-face with rhinos and maybe even spot a tiger. In the Everest region, be awed by numerous peaks Overview above 6,000m. And in the

remote far west of the country, Turner Ellen you can get away from it all – including other people. extremely successful rhino conservation

efforts, and there are now more than Kathmandu The Bardia 600 of the great animals in the park. National Jungle parks and reserves Busy Sauraha is the most popular Park in the Located on the hot, jungly plains point of access, but there are quieter of Nepal, the Chitwan and Bardia lodges and homestays spread far west is National Parks, and the Koshi Tappu throughout the region. recovering and Parsa Wildlife Reserves are ideal The Barauli Community Homestay, well, and is Pokhara ways to get up close and personal with in particular, allows you to get to know a good place wildlife in Nepal. the local Tharu people, as well as join to look Chitwan National Park has run wildlife safaris. for Royal Although previously decimated in Bengal Greater Nepal the decade-long Maoist insurgency, the Tigers. Bardia National Park in the far west is recovering well, and is a good place to look for Royal Bengal Tigers. A visit here can be combined with a

ten-day white water rafting trip down Trekking Guide the Karnali River. The Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve, in the east, is a bird-spotter’s dream, with 439 species of birds living in and

Ellen Turner Ellen around the marshes and wetlands.

33 GREATER NEPAL

The Parsa Wildlife Reserve, which is adjacent to Chitwan, used to be a If you’re not royal hunting reserve, but is now Nepal’s on a tight largest protected area for wildlife. It’s budget, particularly notable for its tropical and helicopter subtropical forests. tours are Around Kathmandu a stunning way to

For a quick trip from Kathmandu city, Contents the Shivapuri-Nagarjun National Park witness the

is the best option. grandeur Samantha McMahon Though split in two between of the Shivapuri in the north, and Nagarjun landscape Mountain parks in the west, the main point of interest is and move and reserves the Shivapuri entrance, by the town of around The Sagarmatha National Park is the Overview Budhanilkantha. quickly. area around Mt. Everest (known as Stop here to check out the Floating Sagarmatha in Nepali). Vishnu Statue surrounded by serpents, Completing the Everest Base Camp and then hike in the park. trek is one way to see the park, as is

Leopards are occasionally seen in the the Gokyo Lakes trek. Kathmandu area, though it’s unlikely you’ll encounter If you’re not on a tight budget, them in the day. helicopter tours are a stunning way to witness the grandeur of the landscape and move around quickly. Aside from the mountains, the bird

life is especially important in this park, Pokhara and you can see Nepal’s national bird, the colorful danphe. Within the Dhaulagiri Himalayas is the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve. Greater Nepal Although extremely isolated – you can trek for three days here and not encounter a settlement – Dhorpatan is a stunning place to incorporate treks between Upper Dolpo and the

Annapurna region. Trekking Guide It’s the only hunting reserve in Nepal, and is home to a large variety of mammals, including the elusive snow leopards, red pandas, musk deers, and Sunrise in Bandipur

Samantha McMahon blue sheep.

34 GREATER NEPAL Safari Experiences

While people flock to Africa to see the Big Five, Nepal has its own wildlife safari: rhinoceros, elephants, tigers,

gharial crocodiles, deer, and Contents an abundance of bird-life. When you’ve had your fill of the mountains, head south to the national parks and wildlife reserves on the plains. The Overview best time to visit the jungle is between October and March.

Spot rhinos, elephants, Now, there are more than 600 of and crocodiles the enormous animals in the park, and Kathmandu Traveling The Chitwan National Park, accessible you’re guaranteed to see at least one. through from Kathmandu and Pokhara, has Other animals and birds live in and the jungle run a very successful rhinoceros around the park, including elephants, conservation project. gharial crocodiles, deer, and vultures. on an ox In 2016, it celebrated the second There are various ways to go on safari cart is much consecutive ‘zero-poaching’ year, and in Chitwan, including on foot, via jeep, by quieter than Pokhara has roughly doubled its population ox cart, or on elephant back, although going in a of one-horned rhinoceros in the past the latter is not ethically recommended. motorized decade. While many tourists flock to busy vehicle, and Sauraha, there are some more peaceful is far less Greater Nepal and eco-friendly ways of experiencing disruptive the park: to the wildlife. Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge, on the edge

of Chitwan, offers a range of lovely Trekking Guide safari options. Traveling through the jungle on an ox cart is much quieter than going in a motorized vehicle, and is far less Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge

Elen Turner Elen disruptive to the wildlife. You are more

35 GREATER NEPAL

Spot tigers in Bardia National Park Bardia National Park, in the far west of Nepal, is less crowded than Chitwan, so offers a more rugged safari experience. While Royal Bengal Tigers live in various parts of Nepal, and are pretty elusive, you have a chance of spotting

them here. Contents The Karnali River runs very close to Bardia, so a unique way of experiencing this park is to combine it with a ten- day white water rafting trip down the Karnali. Overview

Narayani River Bird watching in Koshi Tappu

Elen Turner Elen Wildlife Reserve Bird enthusiasts will love Koshi Tappu likely to see shy animals this way. You on Nepal’s eastern plains. It also makes can also take on-foot safaris. for an excellent day trip from Pokhara. Kathmandu Guests The wetland area is home to over stay in Barauli Community Homestay 400 bird species. You can spot various permanent Stay at the Barauli Community species of storks, ducks, geese, eagles, Homestay to learn about the local tents close terns, lapwings, kingfishers and more. Tharu people and experience the jungle to the Tented camps – both luxury and at a slower pace. animals, and quite basic – have been set up in the Pokhara Join the Homestay’s own jeep help with area, and cater specifically to bird tours within the park, or take a sunset feeding and watchers. bicycle tour down to the banks of the bathing. Narayani River. Greater Nepal Chitwan National Park Tiger Tops Elephant Camp The ethics of elephant tourism in Asia are problematic, but Tiger Tops Elephant Camp was developed in consultation with professional Trekking Guide elephant welfare experts. Guests stay in permanent tents close to the animals, and help with feeding and bathing, as well as collect grass for

these majestic creatures. Samantha McMahon

36 GREATER NEPAL

Adventure Summit of Lobuche Peak Everest Region Activities If you love adventure and adventure sports, Nepal is your playground. With the mighty Himalayas, fast flowing rivers, safaris and jungles, world Contents famous thermal, and more,

you’ll be spoilt for choice here. Samantha McMahon

Trekking in Nepal world has to offer. If you’re already a keen Famous for being home to the world’s mountaineer, this will be your paradise.

You’ll be Overview highest mountain, Nepal is one of constantly the top destinations for trekkers and White water rafting in Nepal mountaineers from all around the world. From these mountains flow numerous in awe and The Everest Base Camp and fast-flowing rivers, which means some pinching Annapurna Circuit are perhaps the two of the best white water rafting in the yourself to most well know treks in Nepal, however world. There are a variety of grades make sure Kathmandu the options are endless. to tackle on the river with multiple or what you When you’re on one of the many trails single-day trips available. are seeing in any of the Himalayan regions of Nepal, The Bhote Kosi is a couple of hours is actually you’ll be constantly in awe and pinching north east of Kathmandu, and is perfect real. yourself to make sure what you’re seeing for a day trip. The landscape here is is actually real – so make sure you bring dominated by mid-sized hills and lots of Pokhara a camera. little farming villages along the bank. TIPS FOR For more on trekking, head to the The other option from Kathmandu is BOOKING A Trekking in Nepal section of this guide to Trisuli, about three hours west of the RAFTING TRIP get you started! city. This popular river is open for rafting When booking a

trip, take note of Greater Nepal all year round. the ratio of safety Mountaineering in Nepal From Pokhara, the best single- kayakers to rafters. If you’re feeling even more adventurous day white water rafting trip is on the Some companies or want something more challenging Upper Seti. This offers challenging try to save costs than trekking, Nepal is also the perfect rapids for rafters and kayakers in the by reducing the number of safety place to learn and try mountaineering. October/November season where you kayakers, but if Trekking Guide There are many experienced guides can pass through a gorge with the high anything goes who will take you to “trekking peaks” Annapurna Himalayas looming above. wrong on the water, you’ll want and teach you some of the basics of For a longer adventure, the Sun Kosi, plenty of these mountaineering, while being exposed known as the "river of gold", is an eight- guys around. to some of the most amazing views the day trip. It passes through high hills and

37 GREATER NEPAL dense jungle, and the rapids are mostly For those who are relatively fit, are mid-sized. experienced riders, or those looking If you want to combine trekking with to challenge themselves tremendously, rafting, try the 12-day Tamur River. Upper Mustang and the Annapurna The first three days involve trekking Circuit are popular multi-day high in the mountains. The river itself mountain biking destinations. These is challenging, and best suited to may involve some tough climbing, but experienced rafters. will reward you with some exhilarating Soaring

downhill slopes. on top of Contents Canyoning in Jaibire Canyon If multi-day trips at high altitude the hills in Why not turn your rafting trip into sound a bit daunting, the Kathmandu Sarangkot a two-day water adventure and add valley might be for you. This ride is an canyoning in Jalibire Canyon to the fun. becomes a unique cultural experience, experience Here, you can enjoy repelling down as you pedal through local villages and you won’t Overview beautiful waterfalls, sliding down see places that are less frequented by soon forget. mother nature’s water slides, and take a tourists. If you’re based in the capital, plunge into the waterhole to work your check out the trails among Shivapuri way through the canyon. National Park. It’ll keep the adrenalin pumping and a Pokhara also offers numerous nervous smile on your face. options. If you’ve just finished a trek TIPS FOR Kathmandu and want to enjoy Pokhara’s relaxing ORGANIZING A Thermal paragliding atmosphere, hire a bike and enjoy a nice BIKING TRIP in Pokhara flat ride around the famousFewa Lake. Both Kathmandu and Pokhara have If you’re looking for more of a Another thing Nepal – or more numerous bike specifically, Pokhara – is famous for is challenge, head into a bike shop near shops, where you its thermal, which makes for paragliding Lakeside and speak to the local guides can hire or buy Pokhara bikes, and also heaven. Soaring on top of the hills in who will take you to some of the more organize bike trips. Sarangkot with an incredible view of difficult trails. If you want to ride the Himalayas is an experience you won’t by yourself, they’ll soon forget. If you are a real adventure- Jungle safaris in Nepal give you plenty of Greater Nepal lover, you can also ask your pilot to It might not come to mind when you information and often free maps t do some acro-moves to test out the think of Nepal, but Chitwan National o show you where strength of your stomach. Park, in the country’s flat region, offers to go. a jungle experience like no other. In Kathmandu, Mountain biking around Nepal Take a jeep or elephant safari, or if the tourist hub of Thamel is the best With the majestic Himalayas as a you’re really brave, a walking safari to Trekking Guide place to start when backdrop – or for the more adventurous see if you can spot the elusive Bengal looking to hire a bike riders, part of the trail – it’s easy tiger and greater one-horned rhino. bike or book a trip, to see why there’s a boom in mountain Safaris are easily organized through and in Pokhara, the main streets biking as an attraction for travelers and the numerous hotels and guesthouses around Lakeside. locals alike. in Chitwan upon arrival.

38 In association with Contents Overview Kathmandu

TREKKING Pokhara HH Mark Whitman IN NEPAL Greater Nepal

ith eight of the ten highest mountains in the world, and some of the most beautiful landscapes only accessible Won foot, it's easy to see why Nepal draws over a million trekkers to its borders every year. Although “trekking in Nepal” often Trekking Guide conjures up images of rugged, blizzard-defying types who brave Everest’s ominous cliff faces, today, there are options for travelers of every fitness level. From what to pack to how to choose the best route for you, we asked our partners from Kandoo Adventures to share their top insider tips and expert advice.

39 TREKKING IN NEPAL Essential Trekking Tips What’s the difference between trekking and hiking? What guides do you use and what do you wear? With so many options for your walking Contents holiday, it can sometimes seem a little daunting to decide on the perfect option. Whether you’re a novice or a pro, a little planning before you go can make all the difference. Overview

Trekking vs hiking Mark Whitman We’re often asked “what’s the difference between a trek and a hike?” Top trekking seasons

The simplest answer is that a trek The two best seasons to trek in Nepal Kathmandu June to consists of multiple walking days, while are February to end of May and August a hike is generally done in a single day. September through to November. is the Being such an epic country to The weather is generally dry during explore, Nepal generally offers trekking these periods and the conditions are monsoon routes that are at least three days in ideal to take in the spectacular vistas. season, length. June to August is the monsoon where the Pokhara While there are several hikes around season, where the Eastern and Eastern and Kathmandu, these don’t even come Southern sides of Nepal receive loads Southern close to what you can experience on a of rainfall. sides of Nepalese trek. Spring brings out the blossoming Nepal Greater Nepal rhododendrons which sets the forests receive Top trekking regions alight with color. loads of There are ten trekking regions in Nepal, rainfall. all of which offer something completely Altitude sickness unique and wonderful. Many of the treks in Nepal are

If pushed for a favorite, the classic conducted at high altitude. Therefore, Trekking Guide Everest Base Camp Trek is hard to beat, altitude sickness is a serious concern as is the famous Annapurna Circuit. and should never be taken lightly. Both treks take you into the absolute There are very little treatments wilds of Nepal where towering giants available for altitude sickness and soar above you. you’ll need to monitor yourself

40 TREKKING IN NEPAL

instructions as he will know the best course of action at all times. Make sure to bring What to do in an emergency several If an accident does occur on your trek, under get your guide’s attention immediately. layers, a He will contact the relevant authorities quality to organize a rescue. Depending on fleece, where you are, you may need to be Contents and an carried by a porter. If you’re seriously outer shell unwell then a helicopter rescue is not Mark Whitman waterproof uncommon, but be aware of the heli- carefully. Make sure you don’t push jacket.w vac scam (see sidebar). yourself hard and remember to take If you are in danger and are insured in plenty of fluids. Always descend with us at World Nomads, contact our Overview swiftly if symptoms occur. Emergency Assist team immediately.

Basic gear Although you’ll most likely be The Heli-vac Scam

trekking in the dry months, high If you get Acute Mountain Sickness Kathmandu (AMS), you’ll feel very un-well. The altitude means that it can still get suggestion from the guide that you very cold, particularly at night when need evacuation off the mountain temperatures often fall below sounds appealing, but be aware. You might be taken for a ride in an entirely freezing. different way than you expect. Wearing layers is key. Make sure to As it turns out, these unscrupulous Jase Wilson bring several under layers, a quality guide companies also operate the Pokhara fleece, and an outer shell waterproof helicopter evacuation services and the hospital you’re taken to, so jacket. they have a strong financial incentive to get you off the mountain – whether you needed the emergency medical treatment or not. Good trekking boots are key, as is an Though your insurance may cover the costs, sadly your trip of-a- all-weather sleeping bag. lifetime is now over, as you won’t be returned to where you were Greater Nepal evacuated from. You’re not going to have the great experience the Who’s who in your crew rest of your party will talk about forever; you’ve been ripped-off, not Depending on who you decide to trek monetarily, but they stole your experience! with, you’ll most likely have one senior So, before you agree to a helicopter evacuation, borrow the guide’s satellite phone and call the World Nomads Emergency Assistance guide, an assistant guide, and porters team. Medical staff will assess your condition and discuss options

to carry bags. with your guide. If evacuation is really necessary, we’ll get you off the Trekking Guide These guys work extremely hard mountain quickly. and often have fascinating stories to But in most cases, mild AMS simply requires you to descend to a lower altitude for a day, and then you can catch up to your party. That way, tell if you’re willing to listen. years later you can all stand at the bar in the pub, and talk about that Take the time to get to know them great adventure you had together. and always follow your lead guide’s

41 TREKKING IN NEPAL

What Everest region to Pack They say that the key to any trek is to pack light and only bring the essentials. But what is essential? And what should you bring vs what can Contents you buy there?

Clothes for hiking If you’re reaching higher altitudes, you’ll need more layers. Bring thermal shorts or trousers, a fleece jacket, and a light Overview down jacket with a hood or dawn vest.

The outer layer is very important and Mark Whitman has to be wind and water-proof. A light membrane or soft shell jacket with a walk in. Remember, you’ll be walking in hood is your best option. these for 4-8 hours a day. Kathmandu Be prepared When hiking or trekking below Sky running trainers: Some people say to put 3,500m, wear light quick-dry trekking hiking in heavy shoes that keep your on more trousers, and a T-shirt. Be prepared ankle stable aren’t very good, as the to put on more layers like windproof body loses the knowledge of keeping layers like jacket and trousers when the sun goes balance. They recommend using lighter windproof behind the clouds or as it gets windy. and softer shoes, for sky running. If jacket and Pokhara Temperatures will drop below wear these, you’ll need ankle support in trousers freezing in the mountains, even at the the form of special bandages. when the altitude of 3,500m, so be sure to always Light trainers or sandals: When you sun goes have a second (or third!) layer with you. come to a lodge to stay overnight, behind the Greater Nepal you’ll definitely want to take your shoes clouds. The right shoes for a trek off! So, bring a pair of light trainers or below 6,000m sandals (better with the covered tip) and If you’re trekking below 6,000m, you’ve let your boots dry overnight. Whatever got three options for footwear. shoes you decide to use for trekking,

Mid/high trekking boots: These will make sure that the sole is not slippery, Trekking Guide provide great ankle support. Get a and has good grip on the rocks. mid-weight hiking boot with a leather or Gore-Tex membrane for water Sleeping bags resistance. Make sure these are the right If you choose to take the teahouse size for your foot and are comfortable to trek route and sleep in lodges, you can

42 TREKKING IN NEPAL easily survive without a sleeping bag. Lukla to Mona Most of these lodges will provide warm blankets. However, your own can be a good idea because: 1. It’s more hygienic. 2. The lodge may be short of blankets during the high season. 3. At night, when the temperature

drops in the mountains, you might Contents want to use both your sleeping bag and a blanket.

Backpacks and important accessories If you hire a porter, a 30-40L backpack Overview will be enough for you to pack your

jacket, snacks, documents, thermos, Mark Whitman and a bottle of water. If you plan to carry everything and What to pack vs what don’t want to use a porter, you’ll need to buy there Kathmandu Hundreds a bigger backpack. Find a backpack Hundreds of trekking shops in of trekking that will ergonomically distribute the Kathmandu and Pokhara will be happy shops in load. It should have a solid frame and to equip you with all the necessary waterproof material to keep your back gear, so don’t worry if you arrive a little Kathmandu and belongings dry. underprepared. and Pokhara

Trekking poles will also come in Be aware though that the will be Pokhara handy, and provide great protection products you buy in Nepal are made happy to for your knees when you’re walking up locally and won’t last forever – it‘s equip you. and down hills. likely that you’ll leave most of them behind after your trek. Greater Nepal There are a number of outdoor clothing shops on Tridevi Marg in Kathmandu where you can purchase the real-deal, top quality branded gear, including fleece and GoreTex jackets,

down jackets, and shirts. Trekking Guide We’d highly recommend you buy your trekking shoes well in advance and choose a trusted brand. Be sure to start wearing your shoes too some time before coming to Nepal!

43 TREKKING IN NEPAL

Trekking Most menus in Nepal consist of potato, noodle, soup, rice, and bread Food dishes, as well as Dhal Bhat and egg / porridge dishes. If there’s one thing that

It’s more of a gamble than anything Prathap Nair trekking for eight hours does, else when you order. Each tea house it’s working up an appetite. In offers a different version of the same the good old days of trekking thing and you never really know what Mealtimes in Nepal, you really only had

you’re going to get till you get it. Makes are a busy Contents one option on your menu – sure to try the Sherpa stew though! affair. Dhal Bhat. Today, with tourism Most tea houses now offer up Trekkers soaring in the tiny mountain western-style options too, such as pizza, from all nation, food options have pasta, and steak. Be warned – these are over the become varied and often not what you would expect back home area literally Overview delicious. and can often be disappointing. descend upon tea Full board treks vs a la carte Mealtimes houses en Until recently, most trekking agencies Mealtimes are a busy affair. Trekkers masse. offered full-board treks – your meals from all over the area literally descend were provided and you ate what you’re upon tea houses en masse. Kathmandu given. However, with the modernization Food is operated on a first-come- of tea houses in Nepal, more and more first-serve basis, so make sure you DEALING WITH RUBBISH trekkers expressed a wish to try the local order as soon as you arrive to avoid Sadly, along your cuisine on offer. And why wouldn’t you? disappointment. trek you’ll notice It’s now far more common to Food comes out quickly and you get the lack of garbage purchase a half-board trek and choose a lot for your money. Although food management. Pokhara your dinner from the extensive menus is exceptionally cheap, try to budget Due to the rapid available. This option offers far more around US $20 per day to accommodate westernization of Nepal, the country variety to your daily meals, gives you an all meals and (more importantly) drinks! hasn’t quite opportunity to interact with the locals, figured out a way Greater Nepal and allows for a much more authentic Bring your own food to deal with all of the trash left by experience. With so much walking, you’ll need to tourists – Please keep up your strength. Make sure you don’t add to this What’s on offer bring along some energy bars to snack problem! Thanks to a booming tourist industry, on as you walk. These are great energy Always keep your trash with you tea houses now offer menus with 30 or boosters and they’ll get you through the Trekking Guide until you reach the 40 options. long uphill grinds. nearest vehicle- Dhal Bhat is still a favorite among Saying that, there are a number of accessible road. many trekkers as most tea houses will shops and bakeries along the major This includes drink bottles purchased refill any empty section of the plate as trekking routes that will supply you with at tea houses. you go. plenty of snacking options if you wish.

44 TREKKING IN NEPAL Top Trekking Routes in Nepal Whether you’re looking to challenge yourself and scale the jagged peaks into the heavens, or prefer to hop between local Contents villages and get beneath the surface of Himalayan life, there’s a trek for you in Nepal. But which route is best? Well, that depends on your choice of difficulty, Overview number of days, budget, time

of year, and trekking style. Mark Whitman

Everest Base Camp Trek Gokyo valley where they visit the five

This is by far the most popular trek holy lakes and ascend over Cho La Pass Kathmandu One of in Nepal. The route receives over – one of the most stunning passes in all the best 30,000 trekkers every year and takes of Nepal. approximately 12 days to complete. This route is far quieter than the moments is Trekkers walk along the stunning classic route and takes on average three getting up Khumbu Valley, taking in the authentic more days to complete. close to the villages and monasteries on their way infamous Pokhara towards the tallest peak on earth. Annapurna Circuit Khumbu The view of Everest from Kala Often described as one of the greatest Icefall. Pattar is one of the best views in the treks on earth, the Annapurna Circuit world and undoubtedly, one of the best is an epic adventure over three long Greater Nepal moments is getting up close to the weeks. The trek is most notable for infamous Khumbu Icefall. the sheer variety of scenery the route passes through. Gokyo Lakes Trek You begin in sub-tropical meadows This is a favorite among serious before ascending up through trekkers. If the classic Everest trail rhododendron forests, alpine hills, and Trekking Guide seems a little too tame, then the Gokyo finally into semi-arid terrain. Trek might just be for you. The highest point is at Thorung La While the destination remains the Pass (5,416m), where you’re greeted same, the route deviates significantly. with 360 degree vistas that will stay Trekkers are taken on a loop into the with you for a lifetime.

45 TREKKING IN NEPAL

Gokyo Lakes Trek Contents Overview Mark Whitman

Manaslu Circuit as "one of the world's most beautiful

Relatively unknown, the Manaslu Circuit valleys”, the Lantang Valley Trek has Kathmandu Although it is far quieter than either the Annapurna earned an exceptional reputation receives less or Everest regions. among trekkers. Although it receives less than 2,000 than 2,000 This is one of the easiest treks in trekkers annually, the Manaslu Circuit is trekkers Nepal and offers hikers the chance to quite possibly the greatest trek in Nepal. annually, see stunning mountain scenery without

The route winds its way up through the Manaslu going too far. Accessible to adults and Pokhara five climatic zones and takes in eight Circuit children, the Langtang Valley Trek offers world-famous peaks! is quite an exceptional mix between scenery and The highlight of this stunning trek is possibly the cultural heritage. Larkya La Pass, which, at over 5,000m, greatest Located near Kathmandu, this trek is Greater Nepal is one of the most dramatic passes in the trek in definitely worth a try if you’re short on Himalayas. Nepal. time or just starting out. Be warned though. This is a high- altitude trek which should only be Jomsom Muktinath Trek attempted by experienced trekkers, If you’re pushed for time, then the with altitude sickness an important Jomsom Muktinath Trek can be Trekking Guide consideration. Set aside at least two completed in as little as 5 days. The weeks to complete this circuit. altitude is fairly low, and inexperienced trekkers will find this an ideal entry-level Langtang Valley Trek trek. Just make sure you’ve packed the Described by travel writer Bill Tilman right gear.

46 TREKKING IN NEPAL

The Mustang region is one of the Because of its low altitude and most stunning areas of Nepal and the generally pleasant temperature, the The Jomsom Muktinath Trek is actually Helambu Trek has grown in popularity in Helmabu part of the larger and far more famous recent years and is now one of the best Trek is Annapurna Circuit. short-trek options in Nepal. ideal for Along the route, you’ll witness eight Despite its accessible location near of the world’s 20 tallest mountains Kathmandu, the route is incredibly families and including Machhapuchhare, Annapurna tranquil. You’ll get none of the crowds travelers wanting a

I, and Nilgiri. that swarm the more famous routes. Contents The route follows in the footsteps of The trek begins an hour from short-but- the ancient trade route along the Kali Kathmandu in the town of Sundarijal. beautiful Ghandaki river. You’ll visit ancient forts, From there, you trek up into the local trek that large caves, and glorious monasteries. hills past forests of rhododendrons, isn't too Until 2008, the Mustang Region was a beautiful waterfalls, and glorious peaks. strenuous. semi-autonomous kingdom and much of Considering the low altitude of the Overview the local heritage still flourishes, making trek, the views along the route are the Jomsom Muktinath Trek a great spectacular. The largest peaks on offer cultural experience. include Langtang and Ganesh. The Helambu Trek is also one of the

Helambu Trek most cultural treks in Nepal. Hikers visit Kathmandu The Helmabu Trek is ideal for families a number of traditional villages where and travelers wanting a short-but- people’s ways of life have changed little beautiful trek that isn't too strenuous. over the centuries.

Useful Nepalese Phrases Pokhara NEPALI GREETINGS Everything’s OK: Thik cha Hi!: Namaste Let’s go: Zoom zoom or jum jum Thank you: Dhanyabaad Quickly, quickly: Chito Chito Sorry: Maaf pau Up, up: Matte Matte How are you?: Tapai lai kasto chha? I am hungry: Malai Bhok lagyo Greater Nepal All’s well with me: Malai sab thick chha I am thirsty: Malai Pyaas Lagyo What’s your name?: Tapai ko naam ke ho? I feel sick: Malai Sancho bhayena My name is _____ : Mero naam _____ ho My leg is in pain: Khutta Dukhyo

I am tired: Malai Thakai Lagyo Mark Whitman HANDY TREKKING PHRASES Yes/OK: Hoon chha Porter: Bhariya No/Not OK: Hoon na Trekking Guide Road/trail/path: Baato Which way to _____?: ____ janey baato kun ho? Uphill way: Ukaalo baato I think I am lost!: Ma haraye chhu Downhill: Oraalo I need a place to stay: Malai baas basnu paryo Cliff: Bheer Paani: Water For more great pro tips, go to Animal: Janawar Kati paisa?: How much money? www.kandooadventures.com

47 TREKKING IN NEPAL

Easy Treks Everest region and Short Hikes While Nepal is certainly famous for its epic treks like Everest Base Camp and Annapurna, these are fairly long and grueling Contents routes that require a good level of stamina and fitness. For the less experienced hiker – or perhaps families with children – there are easier options available Overview that still exposes you to the true

spirit of the Himalayas. Mark Whitman

Kathmandu Valley Trek dates back to the 5th century AD and is

Located an hour’s drive from the considered to be the oldest temple in Kathmandu One of capital, this trek is the perfect option the Kathmandu Valley. the best if you’re just passing through the city. Don’t think you’re missing out on Ghandruk Trek moments is anything though – the valley trek offers One of the best short hikes in Nepal, getting up stunning scenery, cultural heritage, and the Ghandruk Trek is a three-day hike close to the spectacular views – all rolled into just that leads you through stunning rice infamous Pokhara three days. paddies, beautiful villages, and ancient Khumbu You begin in the town of Sundarijal stone stairs. The views along the trek Icefall. before trekking up into the hills. You are simply gorgeous, including the view pass through several traditional villages, towards Annapurna South. Greater Nepal taking in the terraced rice fields and The trek is also ideal as it never lush forests. Once you arrive at Jhule ascends above 2,000m, making it village, you’re greeted with panoramic less risky if you’re prone to altitude views of the surrounding mountains, sickness and perfect for the less- including Everest. You stay overnight experienced hiker. in the village of Nagarkot, famous for The trail begins just an hour’s drive Trekking Guide its incredible sunrise views over the from Pokhara, the trekking capital of Himalayas. Nepal. Hikers make their way up dense The trek ends at the stunning forests of rhododendrons before Changu Narayan temple – a UNESCO coming upon a series of vegetable World Heritage listed site. The temple paddies on their way to the village of

48 TREKKING IN NEPAL

Ghandruk. The village is the highlight of the trek, with its bustling streets and Hundreds cultural heritage. of trekking From here, you’ll get spectacular shops in views of some of the giants of the Himalayas like Annapurna, Hiunchuli, Kathmandu and Machapuchare. and Pokhara will be happy to

Ghorepani Trek Contents Probably Nepal’s most famous short equip you.

hike, the Ghorepani Trek takes hikers Mark Whitman to the picturesque village of Ghandruk, via one of the most unforgettable The highlight of the trek is the view views in the Himalayas – Poon Hill. The from Poon Hill (3,210m) where some trek is considered fairly easy, however, of the world’s most famous peaks can Overview there’s a steep climb section on day two be seen in one magnificent panorama. that consists of 3,381 stone steps. These include Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I Like the Ghandruk trek, the Ghorepani and Annapurna South. Trek is located in the Annapurna Make sure you bring your camera region near Pokhara. Set off from along – In the early morning light, this Kathmandu Nayapul and ascend through forests of is often considered the best view in rhododendrons and rice paddies. the Himalayas.

Poon Hill Trek Conducted over four to five days, the

Poon Hill Trek is perfectly suited to Pokhara beginners and families. Although it’s one of the easier treks in Nepal, the Poon Hill Trek packs a major punch when it comes Greater Nepal to views. The sunrise over the rugged Annapurna Himalaya range is thought to be one off the best in the world. As you ascend into the hills, the scenery is constantly changing from

lush forests, to arid terrain, to farming Trekking Guide fields. Lovely family-run teahouses are dotted along the route, so there’s no need to carry any camping gear. After a fairly steep climb to the top

Mark Whitman of Poon Hill, you’ll be rewarded with

49 TREKKING IN NEPAL one of the best mountain vistas on Everest region earth.

The Royal Trek This trek was named after Prince Charles and his 90-strong crew who explored the route in 1981. It was also historically used by Nepal’s royal

family, adding to the namesake. This Contents is the ideal, easy option for travelers. Because it’s less well known compared to the other treks in the region, most of the time it’s practically empty. This hike takes you through terraced rice fields and lush forests, and you’ll Overview be greeted constantly with views of

the Annapurna Mountain Range. Mark Whitman The route is well-maintained and trekkers stay at a relatively low Panchase Trek Kandoo altitude for the duration of the One of the hidden gems of Nepal, the Adventures' Kathmandu Top 5 Pro Tips for trek. This means that even the most Panchase Trek is often looked over by First-Timers: inexperienced trekkers will be able to travelers. With a relatively low altitude • Always choose give it a go. and only four days long, the Panchase an operator with a good track record, From the highest point, you’ll be trek is the perfect option for novice particularly when it able to see Machapuchhre (fishtail) hikers or families with children. comes to safety. and Langtang Mountain. The trek Located near Pokhara, the • Monitor your Pokhara concludes when you arrive at the journey begins in style with a boat trip fellow trekkers stunning Begnas Lake, just in time for across the beautiful Phewa Lake and is carefully for any signs of altitude a nice drink! perfect for a short trip if you’re based sickness. in Pokhara.

• Take trekking Greater Nepal Once on the forest trail, you’ll come poles – they can across the World Peace Pagoda as reduce stress on you make your way down through the your joints by up to 20%. local villages, where the rustic way of • Wear your boots life still holds sway. in before the trek

Your final destination atPanchase to avoid blisters. Trekking Guide Hill (2,500m) has absolutely epic • Never ascend views. Often considered the best quickly. For more great pro view of Annapurna Massif in Nepal, tips, go to you’ll be blown away by the glorious www. kandoo adventures.com panorama.

50 Essential expenses if you’re suffering from AMS. This includes treatments like oxygen If you’re Insurance therapy in a hospital or a medical travelling center, or other medications prescribed with a by a licensed medical provider. Tips guide and World Nomads policy holders can call While Nepal is certainly the guide our emergency assistance teams, who beautiful, even the most can provide advice to help alleviate your insists on experienced traveler can get you taking

symptoms, and (if medically necessary) Contents caught by the unexpected. can arrange to heli-vac you to the an arranged Medical evacuations in Nepal nearest medical center for care. helicopter, cost upwards of US $6,000 – If you’re travelling with a guide contact the let alone the medical costs and the guide insists on you taking emergency once you get to hospital. That’s an arranged helicopter (see the scam assistance where travel insurance can on page 41), contact the emergency team Overview help. Whether you’re trekking assistance team yourself – or get yourself at altitude or you succumb someone you trust to do so – to get to a local delicacy, all World advice and confirm arrangements for Nomads travel insurance policies your evacuation, if medically required. have been designed to help Kathmandu you navigate a range of hairy Am I covered for hiking, experiences, and provide you mountaineering, or other with expert assistance when you adventure activities? need it most. Most World Nomads travel insurance plans cover hiking at altitudes under

2,000 metres/6,560 feet. However, you Pokhara Altitude Sickness may have to choose a particular plan, Acute mountain sickness (AMS) can or pay for optional adventure sport happen to anyone – even the fittest cover when you buy your policy, to trek and most experienced trekkers. Don’t up to 6,000 metres/19,685 feet, go Greater Nepal assume you’ll be right in a few days: not rock climbing, or to participate in other acclimatizing to altitude can be deadly. adventure sports we’ve mentioned in If you find yourself suffering this guide. from nausea, breathlessness, sleep Not all travel insurance plans cover deprivation, severe headaches, mountaineering, paragliding, mountain vomiting or diarrhea, you should biking, or other more adventurous Trekking Guide descend to a lower altitude until your activities, so do check the list of symptoms improve and seek medical covered adventure sports and activities advice. on our website carefully before you buy World Nomads travel insurance your policy. covers emergency overseas medical Travel insurance is not designed

51 to cover everything, and there are authentic trip without a few momos conditions, limitations, and exclusions from a dirty roadside cart. We’re here to this cover. These may include If you get to the stage where you’re to help waiting periods before cover can apply, dehydrated and possibly in need of navigate exclusions to trekking at extreme a hospital, make sure you call our how travel altitudes (above 6,000 metres/19,685 emergency assistance teams for advice. insurance feet), mountaineering, or using ropes, They’ll be happy to hear your voice, picks, and other specialist climbing whether you’re calling from the works, so if you have

equipment. So, do take the time to read bathroom floor or lucky enough to have Contents your policy wording, and make sure you made it to the toilet. questions understand the cover so there are no They can also guide you to a center about what’s assumptions or disappointments. Any of medical excellence – rather than any covered, questions, please ask. backyard setup that you might stumble what’s not upon – in your hour of desperation. covered, and Protecting your gear how to get Overview Whether you’re bringing your favourite Got questions? help, our tech or your own hiking boots, when We’re here to help navigate how helpdesk it comes to your gear, you’ll want to travel insurance works, so if you have has answers protect it. Many World Nomads plans questions about what’s covered, what’s to most can help cover the cost to replace your not covered, and how to get help, insurance Kathmandu stolen items if you’re mugged on the our helpdesk has answers to most questions trail, or if your bags are lost or damaged insurance questions. Or, simply ask us. by an airline on the way to Kathmandu. All of the information we provide When it comes to your tech, cameras, about travel insurance is a brief phones, or laptop, never check them summary only. It does not include in – travel insurance can’t help you if all terms, conditions, limitations, Pokhara you do. After all, what chance does a exclusions and termination provisions camera lens have against a UFC-loving of the travel insurance plans described. baggage handler? Coverage may not be available for residents of all countries, states or Greater Nepal Dealing with Gastro provinces. Please carefully read your Gastro can take down the hardiest of policy wording for a full description travelers – after all, it wouldn’t be an of coverage.

All of the information we provide about travel insurance is a brief summary only. It does not include all terms, conditions, limitations, exclusions and termination provisions of the travel insurance plans described. Coverage may not be available for residents of all countries, states or provinces. Please carefully read your policy wording for a full description of coverage. Trekking Guide WorldNomads.com Pty Limited (ABN 62 127 485 198 AR 343027) at Governor Macquarie Tower, Level 18, 1 Farrer Place, Sydney, NSW, 2000, Australia is an Authorised Representative of Cerberus Special Risks Pty Limited (ABN 81 115 932 173 AFSL 308461) and is underwritten by certain underwriters at Lloyd's. World Nomads Travel Lifestyle (Europe) Limited (CN 601852) markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited (CN 601851), First Floor, City Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork, Ireland. Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Limited (License No.1446874), at PO Box 1051, Grand Cayman KY1-1102, Cayman Islands. World Nomads Limited (05443592) is an Appointed Representative of Millstream Underwriting Limited (FCA Firm ref: 308584) at 52-56 Leadenhall Street, London, EC3A 2DX, United Kingdom. World Nomads Inc. (1585422), at 520 3rd Street, Suite 201, Oakland, CA 94607, plans are administered by Trip Mate Inc. (in CA & UT, dba, Trip Mate Insurance Agency) at 9225 Ward Parkway, Suite 200, Kansas City, MO, 64114, USA, with 24-hour and Assistance Services provided by One Call Worldwide Travel Services Network, Inc. and plans underwritten by Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and affiliated companies, Columbus, OH. World Nomads (Canada) Ltd (BC: 0700178; Business No: 001 85379 7942 RC0001) is a licensed agent sponsored by AIG Insurance Company of Canada at 120 Bremner Boulevard, Suite 2200, Toronto, Ontario, M5J 0A8, Canada. World Experiences Seguros De Viagem Brasil Ltda (CNPJ: 21.346.969/0001-99) at Rua Padre João Manuel, 755, 16º andar, São Paulo – SP, Brazil is an Authorized Partner (Representante) of Zurich Minas Brasil Seguros S.A. (CNPJ: 17.197.385/0001-21) at Av. Getúlio Vargas, 1420, 5th floor, Funcionários, Belo Horizonte, State of Minas Gerais through the SUSEP Process 15414.901107/2015-77. All World Nomads entities listed above, including Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited and Nomadic Insurance Limited, are subsidiaries of nib holdings limited (ABN 51 125 633 856). 52 Contents Overview Thanks to our See our other guides contributors:

Alice McConnell Japan Insider's Guide

Bibek Neupane With awe-inspiring Kathmandu Casey Horan temples and world-famous Cassie Wilkins cuisine, there’s plenty to love Elen Turner about Japan. Jamie-Leigh Hecht Thailand Jase Wilson Survival Guide Pokhara Kandoo Adventures Tips, advice, warnings, and (Mark Whitman) alerts to make the most of Laura Elliot your Thailand holiday. Mahadev Rojas Torres Greater Nepal Maria Zhevlakova Mexico Insider's Guide Prathap Nair Going to Mexico's Caribbean Samantha McMahon coast? Get our insider's guide Stephanie Hubbard to must-do cenotes & ruins.

Sujan Pariyar Trekking Guide World Cookbook Sunny Shrestha Eat your way around the world with 22 delicious recipes.

All images from iStock unless otherwise credited

53 Need Travel Insurance  for your next adventure?

Trusted by: